Construction began on my 8020 machine over the weekend. I've been slowly gathering the components for the last several months and the final shipment of aluminum landed on my doorstep last Thursday. Whoo-hoo! I've noticed several nice 8020 machines have been built recently so I hope my build falls into that group once completed.

It's a conventional moving gantry design using THK & Hiwin linear slides and bearings on all three axis. Toss in some of Ahren's (www.cncrouterparts.com) bearing blocks, Dumpster's (www.dumpstercnc.com) AB nuts, clamps and couplings, a sweet 370mm THK ballscrew (eBay), some 5 start 1/2-10 ACME leadscrews (McMaster-Carr), Gecko 251 (www.geckodrive.com/) controllers, etc... etc... and I should end up with a nice compact CNC router having a cutting area of approx. 20" X 28".

Using my DeWalt 12" miter saw I managed rather easily to make all the necessary cuts from the stockpiled 8020 sections. LOTS of hot flying chips... but at least they are, for the most part, moving away from you! Make certain you securely clamp the stock being cut... and ALWAYS wear eye and hearing protection. It took less than an hour to cut all the pieces.

I'm currently awaiting an order from BoltDepot but went as far as I could with the assembly using 8020 hardware on hand.

I've attached a couple drawings and pics... more to follow...

Senna

The UPS Tracking says my BoltDepot order is OUT FOR DELIVERY! So... I should be able to make a bit more progress this coming weekend.

Prior to turning in last night I was able to test fit the majority of the components for the table base. The assortment of plates used was due to winning an auction bid from the 8020 Garage. It was a hodge podge assortment of 15 series plates. These will function exactly the same as the higher priced spread... and I'm all for saving money where I can.

More will follow as it happens...

Senna

It will require M5 and M3 SHCS to secure the Hiwin and THK rails to the 1530 series 8020 extrusions. Some of the more typical hardware used with 8020 is their economy T-nuts. Since the size I require is not offered I made the decision to create my own. It's very straight forward. A simple matter of a few cut fender washers, hex nuts, and a bit of tack welding. Split lock washers will be located under the head of the SHCS in the rail itself. We will see if this arrangement maintains a tight screw or requires frequent attention.

Check this out

http://tinyurl.com/3oyf3b

JerkyBoy

www.bwc.com

12421022

http://tinyurl.com/4446ng

I would use the last one and exactly as shown in the diagram, the curve makes the nut sit in exactly the centre of the 8020 and it means that your rails will be centred.

Thats what I have used and it is very straight!

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35996

I'm still working out the details with the manufacturing of the homebrew t-nuts so I began bolting some sections of the gantry together. As an economy move I'm using 5/16" X 3/4" carriage bolts for the majority of the hardware... however I did run into an unforeseen issue with clearance when you have a vertical and horizontal bolt in all 90 degree bracket corners. There just is not sufficient room for the carriage bolt and hex nuts on both axis. This was solved easily enough with 5/16" X 3/4" button headed cap screws and economy t-nuts. I happened to have some on hand left over from the table frame build but I will need to throw a bit more money toward the 8020 Garage guys to get the number I need to complete the build.

I've attached a couple of closeup pics showing the bolt issue solution and a pic of the gantry partial assembly.

Senna

Don't pitch your carriage bolts! You can use them as hold downs in you t-slot table if you go that way! ;)
:cheers: Jim

With the completion of the homebrew T-nuts for the rails on all axis... I began rail attachment for the gantry and table frame. I then moved on to completing the component assembly for the gantry. At times it requires five hands and a small boy to line up the hardware... but I somehow managed it alone with only a modicum of Navy talkin'! The sequence of assembly requires careful planning as there are areas where the hardware is captured and can't be installed after the fact. It certainly requires thinking in three dimensions...!

It does assemble rather quickly when all goes well... and you are not retracing your steps.

Next up is the interface attachment for the bearing trucks and 8020 skates that will ride atop the X-rails.

Senna

Today I fit the gantry onto the table base. This was to check the X-axis rail alignment. Those that have gone before me will know when I say the experience of seeing and especially feeling the axis movement is truly satisfying! The movement is so smooth and has a buttery fluid feel for lack of a better description. Hard to explain... but a delight to the senses!

Senna

Nice work Senna, Looks like a solid machine.

Chuck

This is my dream machine!!!

Can anyone help me with some questions in building almost the same as Senna? I'm looking to build using aluminium profile with max footprint of not more than 400mm by 400mm. How do I go about determining the length and size of the cutting table, the diameter/TPI of the ballscrew or linear guide way, and how much to reduce for the rest of the parts?

Any help will be very much appreciated.

TIA
Wongster

I'm looking to build using aluminium profile with max footprint of not more than 400mm by 400mm. How do I go about determining the length and size of the cutting table, the diameter/TPI of the ballscrew or linear guide way, and how much to reduce for the rest of the parts? Wongster

Wongster,

Since the axis travel distances of my machine was based on what size of linear ways could be won on eBay auctions... I had no firm grasp of what I would eventually end up with for a machine size. I had an idea of what I wanted... but the fiscal realities at times forced a compromise or two which usually resulted in a down sizing of my machine. Those longer linear ways were typically too expensive for my budget.

Once I had the X,Y, & Z linear ways in hand... I was able to finalize the dimensions of my machine. The machine was drawn based upon the dimensions of the THK & Hiwin ways I won on eBay. The way I went about determining my cutting area or as you put it... the size of the cutting table... was to draw my machine in scale, then using the drawn components placed at max travel, you can locate the max cut of the tool bit. I did this for the Y-axis and X-axis. Knowing the dimensions of your components is a must so you can produce accurate drawings or CAD plans. The attached drawings might shed a bit more light on this sizing of the cutting area... and in the 2nd drawing the orange rectangle represents my cutting area based on the max travel distances of the X & Y axis.

As far as the ballscrew dimensions... I knew going in that I wanted to use DumpsterCNC products... and selected his 1/2" 5-start ABN, clamps, and coupler's because of their reputation, cost and availability. The 5-start was chosen for speed.

Hope this helps...

Senna

Thanks for the details, Senna. The drawings really open my eyes; something I've never considered.

I met up with a local distributor of THK Actuator to see if I find a short cut. The price of the Actuators are too much to bear though they would greatly reduced the problem of alignment and structural integrity.

I'll be going on the route of linear ways given its lower cost.

Installed the Y-axis leadscrew assembly today in the short time I had to work on the machine. I'm using Ahren's bearing blocks, 1/2" radial ball bearings, Dumpster AB nut, Dumpster threaded collar clamps, and 1/2" caged needle bearings. It went together very quickly. The most difficult part was the need to cut down the 5/16" carriage bolts as they don't come in a 2-1/4" length. I used my Sawzall and touched them up a bit on the grinding wheel. Looks great... works great...!

Senna

Looks great! Anymore updates?

My lack of updates is due to some machining I need to do for the Z axis ballscrew I won on eBay. I need to make the bearing housings. My shop isn't heated and it's just not comfortable out there when the temps drop. Waiting on a bit of milder weather.

In he meantime I'm attempting to teach myself the ins and outs of Vectric's new ASPIRE software.

More as it happens...

Senna

When it gets too cold I usually just move into the dinning room lol. The aspire software looks a little pricey. How do you like it?

When it gets too cold I usually just move into the dinning room lol. The aspire software looks a little pricey. How do you like it?

I agree with your pricing comment... but the small amount of time I've spent with the trial version has me excited. I do believe it's something I want to invest in. My only reservation is that the software is so new that examples of machined projects are few. The 3d graphic models I'm creating look terrific... I would love to see how those translate into machined materials.

Senna

For those following along... here's an update. After much consideration I've decided to go a different direction with regards to the ballscrew. I have two on hand... a beautiful 370mm THK unit having installed bearings, but no bearing housings and a 570mm THK unit having installed bearing AND bearing housings. Having to machine the bearing housings for the smaller 370mm unit has held up progress. It's a simpler matter to cut the longer 570mm ballscrew down to size. With that decision made I'm now waiting on a replacement 15X35mm ball bearing needed for the radial end of the ballscrew.

I've also redesigned the Z-axis to accommodate some minor dimensional differences between the two ballscrews. It was an uncomfortable 38 degrees out in the shop yesterday... but I managed to get out there and I mocked up my new design out of some scrap OSB looking for fitment and any potential warts. Based upon this mock-up I made a slight last minute design change and locked it down.

Now it's up to UPS. I should have some progress pics within a week or so...

Senna

This is a beautiful project, thanks for sharing.

May I ask how you do your photos with no backgrounds? They're fantastic looking - :)

Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the compliments.

I use the Magic Wand in Photoshop mostly... with some Eraser in the few areas the Magic Wand fails to deal with. I never work on the background level... I keep that white and paste my image to a new level to do the work. As you eliminate areas with the Wand or Eraser.. the white background becomes the backdrop for the subject in the pic. It's almost quicker to do than to describe...

Senna

Well, you're pretty deadly with the magic wand tool, my friend.

Nice work-

Dave

It's been a lengthy hiatus but I'm again moving forward with my 8020 build. Today I sized some 1/2" aluminum plate for the Z assembly backing plate. I also cut to length the two 8020 pieces that will receive the THK linear rails and allows the THK ballscrew to nestle between. The pics show the pieces mentioned in mockup. A bit of drilling and tapping is next up. Stepper mount plate to follow...

Senna

It's been a lengthy hiatus but I'm again moving forward with my 8020 build. Today I sized some 1/2" aluminum plate for the Z assembly backing plate. I also cut to length the two 8020 pieces that will receive the THK linear rails and allows the THK ballscrew to nestle between. The pics show the pieces mentioned in mockup. A bit of drilling and tapping is next up. Stepper mount plate to follow...

Senna

It has been a long time since your last update.. Congrats on getting the proverbial ball screw rolling.

Your Z axis, I just read through a post yesterday of someone making one very similar to yours and loved it. I'm thinking about taking the same route on my next cnc build. Looks great and is a very doable design.

Looking forward to more updates.

Lacking metal working machines has left me with reliance on my woodworking equipment. I was very reluctant to attempt to machine 1/2" aluminum plate on my Powermatic table saw... but I've procrastinated too long on so many details on this build... it's time to make that faith leap. Reading a bit about the subject of cutting aluminum gave me sufficient confidence that if approached in a sane manner and using carbide tooling... I would be successful. Turns out that it cuts quite well when done properly. I had absolutely no issues other than the caveat of eye protection and I did employ long sleeves shortly after beginning to cut. The chips got fairly hot and I sought protection.

It's certainly not a quick process with the need for multiple shallow depth cuts... but I accomplished the required plate sizing easily. Now I'm stalled waiting on a UPS delivery of needed hardware...

Senna

The UPS truck came yesterday with the required hardware... so I pushed on with the Z assembly construction. Today I reached the point where I have the entire Z axis completely thought out with all the warts massaged into compliance or eliminated. I have it about 90% completed with just the Z plate and router mount left to assemble. Oh... I also need to fab a ballscrew attachment bracket.

Designing a machine on a conceptual level and subsequent construction from such plans is fraught with the potential for mistakes. I spend copious amounts of time staring at my machine construction and cogitate... attempting to see the operation and potential problems. So far... things have gone quite well.

I'm getting close to the point where I will need to start on the electronics... a subject I'm woefully lacking in knowledge... sigh...

Senna

Spent these last few days finishing off the base design and build. It was pretty much complete but I finally got around to figuring out the stub leg attachment without having to purchase more bracket hardware from 8020 Garage. The legs came out exceptionally sturdy. I made the attachment brackets out of 1/2" plate. I also installed the leadscrew assembly... once again using Ahren's (www.cncrouterparts.com) bearing blocks, Dumpster's (www.dumpstercnc.com) AB nuts, clamps and couplings. The stepper is a 305 oz HobbyCNC 23-305-DS8A.

I just about had the gantry finished off and managed to strip two of the Y axis linear rail attachment nuts. DOH! The amount of hardware needing removal to get the rail off was disheartening! Talk about two steps forward and three steps back...! My shop made T-nuts were tapped aluminum. Not the correct material for this application. I now need to rethink the hardware to insure it doesn't happen again.

Here's some progress pics...

Senna

The decision to drill and tap the stepper mounting lugs was made when I determined that two of the stepper mounting holes get covered by the 8020 extrusion making the use of a machine screw and nut a bit problematic. The choices were a stud protruding from the mounting plate, a tapped mounting plate, or the choice I made... countersunk through bolt and tapped mounting lugs on the stepper. The stepper gets bolted to the plate and the plate then gets screwed to the 8020 machine frame. A slight enlargement of the plate to machine mounting holes allow for shaft alignment. If this arrangement doesn't work out and proves to be an issue once the machine is in operation... I'll remake the stepper mount plates WITH my machine and go with a tapped mount plate.

The AnTek power supply arrived this morning! My three G251 Geckodrivers and a Siemens E-Stop I won on eBay also showed up. I'm very close to where the mechanical build is finished and the electronic assemblage begins. The one issue I'm pondering is the BOB. In hindsight I should of purchased a G540 and much of what I will now fuss about would be a no brainer. My current investigations are the PMDX 122 and the CNC4PC C11G... of course having no clue as to what all the specs mean isn't making things any clearer...

Senna

I'm scouring the threads for schematics of controller assemblies... hoping to gleen information that might further my understanding and subsequent build. My background had a strong mechanical grounding but completely lacked an exposure to even the simplest electronics. The language and terms used so casually by many on this board in discussion of controller electronics is often completely foreign and I've been mostly frustrated to date.

Carrying on... my machine is very close to completion. A few critical dimensions are lacking of the particular router I've selected (the M12VC Hitachi) but yet purchased. The Z axis plate will be sized based on these dimensions... so it awaits fabrication.

I did mate the base assembly with the gantry. Both have been squared & trued up with relation to each other. I will be assembling the Y-axis on the machine in the next couple days... then the wiring commences.

Senna

I'm scouring the threads for schematics of controller assemblies... hoping to gleen information that might further my understanding and subsequent build. My background had a strong mechanical grounding but completely lacked an exposure to even the simplest electronics. The language and terms used so casually by many on this board in discussion of controller electronics is often completely foreign and I've been mostly frustrated to date.

Carrying on... my machine is very close to completion. A few critical dimensions are lacking of the particular router I've selected (the M12VC Hitachi) but yet purchased. The Z axis plate will be sized based on these dimensions... so it awaits fabrication.

I did mate the base assembly with the gantry. Both have been squared & trued up with relation to each other. I will be assembling the Y-axis on the machine in the next couple days... then the wiring commences.

Senna

I know this thread is getting close to the 1 year mark, is that inspiring you any to finish? You certainly are close now.

I know this thread is getting close to the 1 year mark, is that inspiring you any to finish? You certainly are close now.

Well... time has a way of getting away from you... OR me in this case. It's not inspiration so much... more a challenge of finding the funds needed to push the project forward. The financial meltdown didn't do me any favors with regards to fiscal issues. Money problems aside... I am feelin' it! So...so close!!!

I'll be putting the Y carriage together today... which pretty much finishes off the mechanicals. I need to make a specialized tool to help in assembling it in situ. I'm also hoping to get some 'guru' help with the wiring of the controller. Electronics... not my strong subject...

Senna

Inexpensive T-nut substitute>

http://www.mcmaster.com/#weld-nuts/=3h0a2c

Senna,

If you need help with the wiring, I would be happy to give you assistance.

Jeff...

If you need help with the wiring, I would be happy to give you assistance.

Jeff...

Jeff... that's terrific...thanks!!! I have a schematic that I've drawn that I'll attach as a jpeg but also as a PDF. The PDF can be zoomed without the jaggies you get in a jpeg. I'm a total noob when it comes to electronics so I'm expecting numerous errors. I'm working with an AnTek 50Vdc power supply, Gecko G251 drivers, a CNC4PC C10 breakout board, and HobbyCNC 23-305-DS8A steppers.

As an example of how lost I am... I think from the schematic HobbyCNC sent along with the steppers... you connect the designated 'A' and COM wires, the 'a' and COM wires, the 'b' and COM wires, and the 'B' and COM wires together making an 8 wire stepper into a 4 wire stepper...??? which makes it a unipolar 305 oz-in stepper??? I'm clueless here... hence the need for assistance...

Today was mainly about the Y axis AB nut bracket and alignment. I fabbed the bracket and the needed spacer... lots of drilling and tapping. Worked out nicely.

I'm going to Loctite (Blue 242) numerous machine screws as I assemble the Y carriage so a trip to town for a tube is in order. No assembly today...

Senna

Senna,

When you rewire the Hobby CNC steppers using a parallel configuration they will be bipolar compatible and have 425 ounces of torque.

Jeff...

Senna,

The bipolar parallel amperage rating for the 305-DS8A stepper is 4.2 amps

You may want to increase the current set resistors to 3.48K, that will allow the maximum performance potential from the combination you have.

Jeff...

Senna,

The stepper phase wiring on your diagram is not correct.

Please see attached picture for correct phase connections.

On your diagram you have the coils shorted out.

Jeff...

Jeff...

The Gecko G251's are rated to a max of 3.5A... I have to run the steppers at the 305 oz/in 3A config. So does your modification of the schematic HobbyCNC provided show the parallel configuration change to bipolar you mentioned or is the provided schematic actually FUBAR'd and won't work as drawn...?

The reason I ask is that these are popular stepper choices from Dave at HobbyCNC and many before me have successfully employed them in their projects... I find it difficult to fathom a shorted circuit diagram was being provided to each customer without this being detected...??? BUT what do I know... clueless.

Steve (aka Senna)

Steve,

The schematic you posted can't be for the Hobby CNC steppers and G251 drives, the coils are shorted.

If you choose to run the steppers at 3.0 amps bipolar parallel it will work however you are giving away 15% of the torque.

The G251 has a 3.5 amp capacity and the Hobby CNC steppers are rated at 4.2 amps in bipolar parallel configuration.

You may want to consult with Mariss from Gecko before you apply power to the drives.

If you decide to leave the wiring the way it is in the diagram you may need a RMA for stepper drive repair.

Have a most awesome weekend.

Jeff...

Jeff,

I'm confused... and maybe it's due to a wrong impression. Here's where I believe my thinking has gone astray... I drew the controller schematic and placed the colored wires as I did based on my impression that the four things that look like a sideways triple 'U's on the HobbyCNC stepper wiring diagram meant that those particular wires were to be twisted together & paired up... hence pairing the RED & YELLOW, BLUE & BLACK, GREEN & BROWN, and the ORANGE & WHITE in my controller schematic. Your statement that I have the coils shorted out in MY drawing but then providing a revised HobbyCNC diagram led me to believe that the 'as provided' diagram from HobbyCNC was in error. I meant no offense in questioning how a diagram provided by HobbyCNC to so many customers could be wrong. The REAL ERROR here is my mistaking that the stepper diagram was telling me to pair those particular wires. Obviously that's not what those sideways triple 'U's mean... and you're saying that doing so will short the coils. My bad!

Yes... the Gecko G251's are a 3.5A max driver and will not handle the 4.2A of a bipolar parallel configuration. I must go with the 305 oz/in 3A configuration. Does that mean unipolar series wiring then...???

Steve

I made it to town and picked up the Loctite Blue 242. The afternoon was spent assembling the Y carriage and partial assembly of the Z.

Senna

Yes... the Gecko G251's are a 3.5A max driver and will not handle the 4.2A of a bipolar parallel configuration. I must go with the 305 oz/in 3A configuration. Does that mean unipolar series wiring then...???

Steve

Steve the answer again is no, you can't use the "305 oz/in 3A configuration"

Wire the steppers bipolar, then use 3.48K resistors.

The steppers will consume the 3.5 amps without having any problem at all and
the Gecko G251's will be happy too.

I will repeat for the final time, the stepper motors are rated at 4.2 amps bipolar.

Running the motors at less than there rated amp capacity will reduce there torque output however will not damage them in any way.

"3.0 amps 305 torque" is the unipolar rating for the steppers, the G251 does not have the ability to be wired in unipolar mode.

I am not offended, I understand you are new and need help.

After wiring and configuring hundreds of machines you do develop a knack for being patient.

Jeff...

Steve,

Attached is a explanation of the stepper coils and pairs for the motors you have.

I will revise your wiring diagram so the connections are correct.

Jeff...

Steve,

See attached .jpg for the corrected wiring diagram.

I tried to upload a .pdf however the file may be to large
or the Zone is having upload issues.

I posted the .pdf to Rapidshare if you would like to download it.

http://rapidshare.com/files/275885999/Correct-_Gecko-C10_.pdf.html

Jeff...

Jeff...

Now we're communicatin'...! MY Gecko drivers WON'T do the 305 oz/in 3A config... which is unipolar. I MUST run a bipolar config that the Gecko's can digest BUT I will require a larger current limiting resistor (3.48K) to keep the amps within the max rating of the 251's. I get it now! I was missing the most important part of the deal where 'Gecko's don't do unipolar'... sorry!

I'll go back and correct my schematic per your mods. Your time, efforts and understanding are greatly appreciated!

Oh... would that 3.48K limiting resistor still be 1/4W...?

Steve

Here's something I just ran across regarding the G251's from Gecko..

---IMPORTANT APPLICATION NOTICE FOR G251 GECKODRIVES---

Problem: Eliminating obnoxious hissing, sizzling and squealing sounds. The G251 drives make unpleasant noises in multiple axis applications. This doesn't hurt the drives and they will not have positioning errors but the sounds are very annoying.

The G251 drive is not a chopper. It is a synchronously clocked pulse width modulated (PWM) drive. It is inherently silent by design, it should make no hissing, squealing, grunting or whistling sounds or any sounds at all.

Cause: The G251 drives are not optoisolated. Signal GND (term 12) from each drive must connect to the parallel port GND (pin 25) to complete the step and direction signal path. Each G251 drive's Signal GND has a slightly different voltage potential because of motor phase currents and wiring resistance back to the power supply.

This small but inevitable (<100mV) potential difference between drive grounds causes significant (>100mA) ground-loop currents to flow between the drives. This high frequency (20kHz) AC current is sufficient to disrupt the operation of the of the motor phase current regulators and make them audibly noisy. The drives are still perfectly accurate but now make annoying noises.

Cure: Install a 100 Ohm 1/4W resistor in series with each drive's Signal GND (term 12) to parallel port GND (pin 25) circuit connection. This completely cures the audible noise problem and renders the drives utterly silent while stopped or turning at slow speeds.

The 100 Ohm resistors are too small to have any effect on performance but are large enough to reduce ground-loop currents 1,000 to 10,000-fold (<<100uA). Such small currents are now completely unable to interfere with the normal, silent operation of the G251 drives.

Jeff... what would this look like... I'm now familiar with the Signal GND on the Geckodrives but not with a parallel port GND (pin 25). These 100 Ohm 1/4W resistors would be placed in line between the Geckodrive terminal 12 and this parallel port GND pin...???

Steve

Steve,

1/4 watt 1% resistors will be fine.

http://tinyurl.com/nu78pa

Please see attached image for pin 25 GND connection.

Jeff...

Please see attached image for pin 25 GND connection.

Jeff...

EXCELLENT!!! Thanks again Jeff...!

Steve

OK... after some marathon searches and purchases... I've got a CNC4PC C10 breakout board, 6 ft parallel cable, Hitachi M12VC router, 3.48K 1/4W resistors, 100 Ohm 1/4W resistors, 4 position terminal blocks, 3 position terminal blocks, 50ft of 22 ga 2 conductor shielded cable, and 50ft of 22 ga 4 conductor Alpha cable on the way so I can get to assembling my controller. I'm still cogitating about the enclosure... but might have that on the way too by the end of today.

When the router arrives I'll be able to size the Z plate and determine the plates attachment position on the vertical trucks for max Z travel.

I was considering one of K2CNC's aluminum router mounts but finances are dwindling... I'll be whipping something up to do the duty on a temp basis until I can machine my own. I have the aluminum plate on hand so it just makes sense...

Senna

Jeff,

So now that I know the two pin 25 parallel GND locations on the C10 BoB what does the wiring look like for the SILENT DRIVE APPLICATION NOTICE that Mariss put out.

Once again it states... "Cure: Install a 100 Ohm 1/4W resistor in series with each drive's Signal GND (term 12) to parallel port GND (pin 25) circuit connection. This completely cures the audible noise problem and renders the drives utterly silent while stopped or turning at slow speeds."

The three drivers Signal GND (term 12) already have wires going to COM on the BoB between 2&3, 4&5 & 6&7 of Input/Output. Do I run a second wire from the drivers Signal GND incorporating an inline 100 Ohm resistor to either of the two pin 25 parallel GND locations you pointed out... GND between 17 &16 and GND between 14 & 1...?

This whole foreign language of electronics is VERY confusing... especially when terms such as ground are used. I've seen power GND, DC minus or COM, PC parallel GND, chassis GND, and Signal GND which I recognize as English words but which I have a complete lack of understanding. It's a slow go I must say...

Steve

Steve,

Com "common" is logic common, that is not the same as ground.

See the latest revision of wiring pdf for resistor connection locations.


Please excuse the crude image manipulation.

Jeff...
See corrected drawing post #82

Thanks Jeff,

It can't be more clear than that...!!! Being a retired CSI Forensic Photographer I'm more visual than cerebral. I think I feel comfortable enough now with the controller wiring layout to begin stripping wire. Thanks for taking on the role of shepherd!

Steve

My Hitachi M12VC router arrived today...! This was holding me up as I needed the router on hand to physically size and place my Z plate on the THK trucks.

I determined the plate size needed and using my table saw cut the plate. I rabbited the back side to receive and align the THK trucks. A CAD template was drawn up with the 16 attachment hole drilling locations and taped to the plate. I drilled for a M5 SHCS and attached the plate. The assembly was slipped onto the rails and I adjusted and tightened the Z rails.

Now I'm able to determine the router mount location AND the ballscrew bracket location to achieve MAXIMUM Z travel...

I kinda painted myself into a corner with the Z ballscrew bracket. I have NO easy access to the bracket to bolt it to the ballscrew. I'm thinking an access opening in the Z plate OR maybe another special homemade tool...??? I'm thinking...

Senna

I ended up hole sawing a 1-7/16" access port just below the z plate ballscrew bracket to solve my problem. It gives me the ability to slip a hex key into the capscrew so that I can tighten the nut from the top of the assembly. I attached the bracket to the plate with three M5 SHCS. The screws were threaded into the tapped plate and Loctite was used.

The last thing on the mechanical side of the build is to fab and bolt a temporary router mount to the Z plate. I looked through my stock of HDPE and I have enough 1" for a single clamp. I'll have to make the second clamp from wood. Something simple... a two piece clam shell with wing nuts should suffice. Once up and running I can machine a replacement from aluminum.

I have a few electrical supplies yet to be delivered. I expect that to happen Monday. Then I'll begin in earnest on the controller.

Senna

The mechanical side of the build done...! Just finished with the temporary router mounts... one out of 1" HDPE and the other out of 1" Oak. A bit of overkill here but it's what I had on hand.

Everything ordered for the electrical side of the build has now arrived and I've started on the physical layout of the controller. I picked up a PC tower case to use as the enclosure. I already have a basic idea in my head for the component locations and I'll be starting on the wiring as soon as I size a piece of polished diamond plate...

Senna

P.S. I was too excited to take the time to eliminate the cluttered backgrounds...

I actually appreciate the background. Makes it real. So what's left to get this puppy moving?

I'm useing the same router as you, What size hole did you cut for it? I'm going to be making a new Z axis and mounts for it soon and you may save me some time and money. My caliper isn't big enough to get a measurement on it.

So what's left to get this puppy moving?

What size hole did you cut for it? I'm going to be making a new Z axis and mounts for it soon and you may save me some time and money. My caliper isn't big enough to get a measurement on it.

The first question is more difficult... I'm entering a realm that I have very little experience with... BUT... I have my schematic and THAT I can follow almost like a 'paint by numbers' kit. I have the G251 Geckos, the C10 BoB, the AnTek power supply, and a PC power supply putting out 12V & 5V (case fans & BoB dc supply). I have all the wire, ring terminals, strip terminals, heat sink, & thermal potting compound... but I'm lacking a power supply cord and a SPST switch. Wanting something a bit fancy... but as yet haven't decided. Having said all that... this controller build may take me awhile to wire up. Fear will probably cause plenty of procrastination...

The second question is easy... 83mm for the router body.

Senna

Thanks for diameter. I'll make good use of it. Wiring scares me too. One little crossed wire and poof your out a couple of hundred or worse... a fire lol Looking at your schematic above I'm glad I went with g540. Just wish I was getting it now since cncrouterparts now sells plug and play steppers for it. Those DB9 connectors gave me hell.

Even though I got the G540 I'm going to have to send it back for repairs. My Z axis's port died :( So the Z axis I was hoping to build this weekend is going to have to be put on hold for another week.

I hope you get it moving soon. Your 13 days away from the year mark of this thread. You can do it!

Date schmate... it's just a number. I'm sure it'll be one of those deals though where once it's up and running I'll wish I had built it sooner!

I'm kicking myself that I didn't wait for the G540... but I got in on the initial price offering for the G251's. C'est la vie... I am learning a lot though. There's always that NEXT machine...

Senna

Couldn't help myself... I did the background removal on the completed machine pic. Here's how she sits now... awaiting the controller wiring. Oh... the three AB nuts need bolting up also.

Work on the controller begins in earnest today. Already a trip into town is in order... I'm certain not the last either.

Senna

Date schmate... it's just a number. I'm sure it'll be one of those deals though where once it's up and running I'll wish I had built it sooner!

I'm kicking myself that I didn't wait for the G540... but I got in on the initial price offering for the G251's. C'est la vie... I am learning a lot though. There's always that NEXT machine...

Senna

I have to set goals and dates for completing things. I don't make it half the time but if I don't put myself under a clock I would never finish anything. It also has to be a challenge and a struggle to bring it together in time or I may loose interest. I am trying to learn the art of slow persistence. In reality it's my obsession with cnc machines that is teaching me to take it slow.


Have you decided what you are going to use for a table top?

When fiscal realities conflict with imposed goals... I've found that I can only skip a few meals at most before I capitulate...!

The table will be a simple bridging board that sits atop the two end sections of 8020. There will be crossed battens dado'd into the underside of the bridging board in the form of an 'X'. This strengthens and prevents sag. Plain 'ol MDF for the spoil board. Haven't given much thought to a T-slot type arrangement or similar as yet.

I also need to get the thing up off the floor where it resides now. I'll either build a bench or possibly I can find something that will accommodate it.

Senna

Today I fabricated the controller plate... drilled mounting and grommet holes... mounted the heatsink... mounted the breakout board... thermally potted and screwed the Gecko's to the heatsink and began the process of wiring. Tedious... but no difficulties so far.

Senna

I've progressed as far as I am able with the controller wiring. I decided to make things a bit more convenient for me and install couplers in several areas. I placed the order last night and now things sit idle until delivery.

Senna

P.S. I'm uploading the final schematic so that it might possibly be of help to someone using the same components...

Made a personal discovery last night... shows what a noob I truly am. Here I have been operating under the mistaken impression that the X axis was my longest axis... and on my machine... that's the fore and aft gantry travel as viewed from the front of the machine. While I am waiting on some parts I've been going through and viewing the MACH3 tutorial videos and I noticed something in the TOOLPATH window that had me confused. MACH3 displays a red arrowed X pointing to the right and a yellow arrowed Y pointing away from you. If HOME is the near or front left corner of the machine... then MY X axis would be pointing away from me... not pointing to the right. Hmmm... I followed up on this and learned to my chagrin that with MACH "on a standard three axis mill the X axis moves from left to right. The Y axis moves towards and away from you..."! Well... color me pink!

Senna

Made a personal discovery last night... shows what a noob I truly am. Here I have been operating under the mistaken impression that the X axis was my longest axis... and on my machine... that's the fore and aft gantry travel as viewed from the front of the machine. While I am waiting on some parts I've been going through and viewing the MACH3 tutorial videos and I noticed something in the TOOLPATH window that had me confused. MACH3 displays a red arrowed X pointing to the right and a yellow arrowed Y pointing away from you. If HOME is the near or front left corner of the machine... then MY X axis would be pointing away from me... not pointing to the right. Hmmm... I followed up on this and learned to my chagrin that with MACH "on a standard three axis mill the X axis moves from left to right. The Y axis moves towards and away from you..."! Well... color me pink!

Senna

Man it caught me by surprise too. I was thinking I was loading my parts in my cam software incorrectly and my g-code was coming out bad. However, I've found several diagrams that show X as being left and right and Y being near and far. I don't know what is correct but that is how I've retrained myself to think. I also had to reverse all 3 of my axis's in mach 3. It can be a little trippy.

My parts arrived so I made some more progress wiring my controller today. The stepper cables and dc power leads now have locking connectors. The 5Vdc will be getting spade terminals. This will allow me to easily unplug and completely remove my controller plate if I ever need to.

It's all coming together and in a day or so I should be able to energize the system. Everything has been tripled checked but I'll still be muttering a lucky mantra as I flip the switch.

We shall soon see...

Senna

I've progressed as far as I am able with the controller wiring. I decided to make things a bit more convenient for me and install couplers in several areas. I placed the order last night and now things sit idle until delivery.

Senna

P.S. I'm uploading the final schematic so that it might possibly be of help to someone using the same components...

The recommended resistors did cure the hissing noises for my setup (4 G-251's connected to a PMDX-122 BOB), however I wired them in series between the logic grounds of the driver and the BOB. I see that in your setup you have them in parallel--was wondering if you have already ran the drives and if it worked.

Thanks,

debetto

The recommended resistors did cure the hissing noises for my setup (4 G-251's connected to a PMDX-122 BOB), however I wired them in series between the logic grounds of the driver and the BOB. I see that in your setup you have them in parallel--was wondering if you have already ran the drives and if it worked.

Thanks,

debetto

I know bupkis about electronics and what is parallel and what is serial. NO... I haven't powered my system and maybe this is a good thing if I've done something wrong. I have been getting help from another CncZone'r and specifically asked what the wiring would look like for what Mariss was calling out... "Install a 100 Ohm 1/4W resistor in series with each drive's Signal GND (term 12) to parallel port GND (pin 25) circuit connection." I'm a visual type... so when he kindly provided a drawing... that's how I executed the quiet drive modification. If this is incorrect... it would be great to correct it now.

Senna

Senna,

Debetto, you 100% are correct.

That was a good call, I should have caught the mistake a long time ago.

Jeff...

I know bupkis about electronics and what is parallel and what is serial. NO... I haven't powered my system and maybe this is a good thing if I've done something wrong. I have been getting help from another CncZone'r and specifically asked what the wiring would look like for what Mariss was calling out... "Install a 100 Ohm 1/4W resistor in series with each drive's Signal GND (term 12) to parallel port GND (pin 25) circuit connection." I'm a visual type... so when he supplied the attached pic... that's how I executed the quiet drive modification. If this is incorrect... it would be great to correct it now.

Senna

The description is correct about the resistor being in series. The wire from term 12 of the G-251 goes to one end of the resistor, and the other end goes to the signal ground of the BOB.

The way you have it wired has the G-251 term 12 connected directly to BOB ground with the resistor going from that ground point to another ground point in the BOB (which is effectively a parallel connection). I have limited eletronics knowledge so I am not sure if this would work, but I am pretty sure it wouldn't do harm either.

I will try to come up with an illustration to post.

debetto

Sorry for posting confusing information.

Debetto,

I am sorry for misunderstanding what you said.

What you are saying is the G251 should not be connected to the BOB common.

Senna will need to remove the resistors and wires from the common terminals.

Jeff

This is how it is currently wired.

This is the correct wiring.

Debetto,

I am sorry for misunderstanding what you said.

What you are saying is the G251 should not be connected to the BOB common, is that correct?

If that is true, Senna will need to remove the resistors and wires from the common terminals.

Jeff

No problem...I should have been more clear. I attached a drawing to illustrate the 2 methods.

The common terminal and the supply ground in the BOB will have a pcb trace connecting them (the G-251 has ground as common). Connecting a resistor between them will have no effect because there already exists a near zero resistance path between the two points.

What I am proposing is for term 12 to first go to one end of the resistor and for the other end to go to common/gnd instead of term 12 going straight to common/gnd.

Debetto,

I am sorry for misunderstanding what you said.

What you are saying is the G251 should not be connected to the BOB common, is that correct?

If that is true, Senna will need to remove the resistors and wires from the common terminals.

Jeff

No problem...I should have been more clear. I attached a drawing to illustrate the 2 methods.

The common terminal and the supply ground in the BOB will have a pcb trace connecting them (the G-251 has ground as common). Connecting a resistor between them will have no effect because there already exists a near zero resistance path between the two points.

What I am proposing is for term 12 to first go to one end of the resistor and for the other end to go to common/gnd instead of term 12 going straight to common/gnd.

Again, all this is based on my limited knowledge. I know my proposed method works because I have already tried it.

debetto

This is the correct wiring.

I agree. You have a much better drawing too. :)

Senna,

I apologize to you and Debetto.

The original drawing I made was wrong, the resisistors and the wires should not be connected to the common terminals.

Please See the corrected drawing.

Senna,

In order to keep everything neat you could use a Exacto or razor knife and cut open the common traces on the bottom of the C10 that are connected to the offending terminals.

Jeff...

Senna,

I apologize to you and Debetto.

The original drawing I made was wrong, the resistors and the wires should not be connected to the common terminals.

Please See the corrected drawing.

Jeff & debetto...

Whooee... I go away for a few minutes and a flurry of posts has taken place!!! This is truly how the Forum is supposed to function and I THANK the BOTH of you for taking the time and interest to post the heads-up AND solution. I'll make the necessary change asap.

While you two were hashing out the resistor issue I was performing a continuity check with my controller board, wiring and connectors. I wanted to insure that after screwing, soldering and shrink tubing the connections... I had good contact and no shorts or dead connections. Everything checks out nicely. Once I correct the Silent Drive wiring... I'm onto the enclosure and the wiring of the two dc power supplies... one is the 50Vdc and the other is 12Vdc and 5Vdc.

I'm so so close now...! Getting butterflies...

Senna

Senna,

In order to keep everything neat you could use a Exacto or razor knife and cut open the common traces on the bottom of the C10 that are connected to the offending terminals.

Jeff...

The C10 board has a jumper that allows you to select +5v or ground as common. If you leave this connection open (take out the jumper), everything should work.

debetto

Debetto,

I believe the jumper is for the input as well as the output terminals.

If you removed the jumper the input terminals would also be affected and the inputs would no longer function (limit switches, height probe etc...) due to the common being absent.

Jeff...

Debetto,

There is a second reason why removing the jumper will not work.

The common terminals are daisy chained to each other, All three G251 pin 12 terminals would all be shorted together if you just removed the jumper.

Jeff...

Debetto,

I believe the jumper is for the input as well as the output terminals.

If you removed the jumper the input terminals would also be affected and the inputs would no longer function (limit switches, height probe etc...) due to the common being absent.

Jeff...

I just checked the website and it says the jumper sets common for pins 2 to 9--the step and direction outputs. I also checked the wiring guides and it SEEMS from the illustrations that for the inputs, common is hard-wired as +5v and is not affected by the jumper (the input terminals are labeled Pin X and 5V). It would be worth trying if disconnecting the jumper would work before cutting the traces.

Senna,

I asked the moderator (Al The Man) to remove the incorrect diagram I provided you and replace it with the corrected version.

You may want to do the same with the diagram you posted so that future readers will not be confused.

Jeff...

Debetto,

The common terminals on the C10 are daisy chained to each other, I can post a picture of the traces if you would like to see them.

Jeff...

I just corrected the Silent Drive wiring mod and the attached pic illustrates this fix. Thanks guys... it was a simple enough job.

So does a pin 25 GND on a BoB function the same as a COM on a BoB? What I'm asking is will the terminal 12 Signal Gnd on the G251 see the pin 25 GND and perform the same function as it would if connected to the COM's? I'm attempting to understand the difference between COM & GND.

Steve

Senna,

Perfect fix.

Your question about common is a good one.

The common could be neutral or +5 volts on the C10 depending on the jumper setting.

Common is not connected to ground, it is a neutral common source.

Ground is connected to earth, neutral is not connected to earth.

Jeff...

Debetto,

The common terminals on the C10 are daisy chained to each other, I can post a picture of the traces if you would like to see them.

Jeff...

The common termonals for pins 2 to 9 are interconnected and can be configured to be +5 or GND depending on jumper X7. Jumper X5 allows for the selection of either pull-up or pull-down resistors for the input pins 10,11,12,13,15.

Senna,

Perfect fix.

Your question about common is a good one.

The common could be neutral or +5 volts on the C10 depending on the jumper setting.

Common is not connected to ground, it is a neutral common source.

Ground is connected to earth, neutral is not connected to earth.

Jeff...

Jeff...

Thanks for the confirmation on the fix.

So if COM is a neutral common source & not connected to earth is the terminal 12 Signal GND on the G251 now seeing what it needs to see at a pin 25 GND location which according to the above... is connected to earth...??? No understanding at all but trying...!

Steve

Steve,

The configuration you have in the last picture is correct per Gecko's instructions.

It will perform flawlessly.

Jeff...

Debetto,

The common terminals for pins 2 to 9 are interconnected and can be configured to be +5 or GND depending on jumper X7. Jumper X5 allows for the selection of either pull-up or pull-down resistors for the input pins 10,11,12,13,15.

I completely understand and agree, that does not change the fact that all the common connections are daisy chained together.

Removing the "+5V-COM" jumper would effectively disable all input and outputs on the C10.

Give Arturo a call he will confirm what I am stating.

Jeff...

Steve,

The configuration you have in the last picture is correct per Gecko's instructions.

It will perform flawlessly.

Jeff...

From your mouth to you know who's ear...! THANKS for the reassurance and hand holding. Maybe forward osmosis through a steady exposure to the Zone will be effective in advancing my understanding... but for the present... just knowing that all the little thingys are properly positioned is sufficient.

In a classical avoidance behavior... I made yet another internet order for more parts thus delaying once more the energizing of my controller. Waiting for more ring terminals, a few strain reliefs, a couple feet of shrink tubing, & a roll of split loom tubing may settle my stomach somewhat and will most probably push this build past the one year mark... BUT not by much! I'll also be picking up a bottle of Pepto on Monday...!

Senna

Steve,

You will be fine, worst case scenario one of us will hold your hand while you apply the power.

Have a most awesome evening,

Jeff...

Senna, I just had my g540 replaced by gecko, free of charge, for something that was probably my own darn fault. The lady on the phone pretty much said the insides had been blow apart and to cheek my wiring. Just saying, in case anything goes wrong with your drivers, gecko will be there for you.

I've been really careful and tripled checked everything. The continuity check I did yesterday passed with flying colors. Knowing others have gone before me and I'm not going where no man has gone before gives me some confidence. I am however going where I have not gone before... never got into electronics growing up. Now that I'm grow'ed up I've gotten extremely cautious with new endeavors when you navigate with less than a full understanding.

Jeff... you elevate my level of confidence! FandZ... knowing I can screw up and still find great customer service may not instill confidence... BUT it does help lower somewhat the level of anxiety!!!

A matter of days now...

Steve

Steve,

Tense situations make you feel alive, and like Neil Young always say's "its better to burn than fade away".

Out of the black and into the blue...

Jeff...

Steve,

Did you read post number 6 of this thread?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90267

Do you know what revision G251 you have?

Jeff...

Steve,

Did you read post number 6 of this thread?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90267

Do you know what revision G251 you have?

Jeff...

Jeff,

Not certain of the actual REV lot... but as a guess... I'd say REV 1 if the first production lot received that number designation. I got in on the first release special offer.

Steve

Debetto,



I completely understand and agree, that does not change the fact that all the common connections are daisy chained together.

Removing the "+5V-COM" jumper would effectively disable all input and outputs on the C10.

Give Arturo a call he will confirm what I am stating.

Jeff...

Jeff,

You are probably correct...but no need to give Arturo a call. Senna came up with the simple and perfect solution, and that is what matters.

Cheers,

debetto

My order from AllElectronics arrived this morning. Once I got rid of those pesky static cling styrofoam peanuts I was able to ALMOST complete the wiring... lacking just the ring terminals soldered to the stepper pigtails. The controller is finished though! I just performed a power test of both DC power supplies minus the Gecko's & BoB and everything is nominal. No spitzen sparken en das enclosuren...! It's a good thing as Martha would say. The LED's and fans were working as they should... the AnTek was showing 52V without a load at all three locking connectors. So far... so good...!

I'll work on the stepper ring terminals tomorrow and quite possibly 'go for power up!'.

Senna

When I was buttoning up my controller build yesterday I discovered a few things that I wanted to take care of and one issue that somehow developed between design and execution. I'm not certain how but once I had the my controller plate installed I saw that the BoB's 25 pin connector no longer lined up with the sheet metal opening in the rear of my case. The fix was to remove the BoB from the plate and reduce the height of the standoff spacers. Not difficult... just fussy. NOT something I wanted to tackle last night when I made the discovery... so I got on it first thing this morning.

I also carefully moved my machine from the living room into the back bedroom. It was either bring Mohamed (the PC) to the mountain (my machine) or the mountain to Mohamed. I ended up moving the mountain...! Sucker's heavy too! I'd estimate it at about 225-250lbs. Two could of done it easily enough but I was alone. I had to remove the Z axis stepper to get it to fit through the doorway but I was going to remove it anyway for motor tuning.

I have a couple appearance plates on the case that I attached with silicone curing but the next step is to hook everything up and throw the switch. Could happen later today OR certainly tomorrow! Now where did put my bottle of Pepto...???

The controller enclosure is a PC tower case called a XION...

Senna

HOO-YA...!!! I powered up my controller at 2:30 PM Pacific Time and everything is operating beautifully!!! I did a slight bit of motor tuning but since I really have no idea what I'm looking or listening for they might not be optimal at this point. They sound sweet though!!! I loaded the Roadrunner file and sat back to watch and listen. This was just a controller & motor function run... I have the AB nuts disconnected... I didn't want things to FUBAR and hard crash an axis.

This is absolutely the greatest validation and sense of accomplishment I can remember!!! I'm totally pumped... and the Pepto tastes even worse when a nervous stomach forces a revisit!

NEXT on the punch list... connect the AB nuts and actually move the machine axis!!!

Jeff... I want to express a huge THANKS...! Your expertise was invaluable! debetto... thank you for catching my wiring error with the Silent Drive Mod!

Senna

HOO-YA...!!! I powered up my controller at 2:30 PM Pacific Time and everything is operating beautifully!!! I did a slight bit of motor tuning but since I really have no idea what I'm looking or listening for they might not be optimal at this point. They sound sweet though!!! I loaded the Roadrunner file and sat back to watch and listen. This was just a controller & motor function run... I have the AB nuts disconnected... I didn't want things to FUBAR and hard crash an axis.

This is absolutely the greatest validation and sense of accomplishment I can remember!!! I'm totally pumped... and the Pepto tastes even worse when a nervous stomach forces a revisit!

NEXT on the punch list... connect the AB nuts and actually move the machine axis!!!

Jeff... I want to express a huge THANKS...! Your expertise was invaluable! debetto... thank you for catching my wiring error with the Silent Drive Mod!

Senna

Hey hey, congrats! Hope to see video soon. :wee:

Steve,

Way to go, Its good to hear you are up and running.

You are very welcome.

Please post some pictures once you start making parts.


Jeff...

HOO-YA...!!! I powered up my controller at 2:30 PM Pacific Time and everything is operating beautifully!!! I did a slight bit of motor tuning but since I really have no idea what I'm looking or listening for they might not be optimal at this point. They sound sweet though!!! I loaded the Roadrunner file and sat back to watch and listen. This was just a controller & motor function run... I have the AB nuts disconnected... I didn't want things to FUBAR and hard crash an axis.

This is absolutely the greatest validation and sense of accomplishment I can remember!!! I'm totally pumped... and the Pepto tastes even worse when a nervous stomach forces a revisit!

NEXT on the punch list... connect the AB nuts and actually move the machine axis!!!

Jeff... I want to express a huge THANKS...! Your expertise was invaluable! debetto... thank you for catching my wiring error with the Silent Drive Mod!

Senna


You are very welcome! I am looking forward to seeing your machine in action.

debetto

I hooked up the AB nuts today leaving the bearing blocks loose. Ran each axis to the the stepper end and tightened those bearing blocks... ran the axis to the radial bearing ends and tightened those blocks. Got back into motor tuning and played around some. I'm being rather conservative with the acceleration and velocity... I settled on running my 1/2" -10 5 start Acme screws on the X&Y at 301.14 in/min and 5 on the acceleration. The Z axis has a THK ballscrew which I think they call a 10mm screw. It travels 10mm for one revolution. I'm running that at 180 velocity and 5 acceleration. This was based solely on viewing the axis movement and listening to the singing of the steppers. I went with what looked and sounded good. My travels are approx 21" on the X, 28" on the Y and 6" on the Z so uber rapids are not needed here.

I air cut the ubiquitous Roadrunner several times but with the 500 lines of code limitation it doesn't get to finish. It's still an amazing experience to watch and listen to something I concieved, designed, and built perform exactly as it should right out of the box. A Mach3 license will be obtained ASAP... MUCH to learn!!!

I don't own a video camera nor do I know anyone with one. My digital camera has an ability to capture video in 60 second clips. I'll look into that and then see if I can figure out youtube...

Senna

Steve,

You may find that a setting of 5 for the acceleration is to slow.

The acceleration setting also effects how the steppers stop or decelerate.

A acceleration setting that is to slow will cause the machine to overshoot where it should have stopped.

It can also cause the machine to overrun the home or limit switches.

I use between 10% and 15% of the velocity as a starting set point for acceleration.

Jeff...

Well... this is good NEED TO KNOW info! Thanks! I'll play a bit more today. So much to learn and attempt to absorb...

So that would be 30 for the X & Y and 18 for the Z if I go with a 10% accel...

Senna

Steve,

A good indication would be to snap "rapidly release" one of the axis jog keys "keyboard arrow key"

As you snap the jog key the axis should stop motion instantly.


Jeff...

Hey senna, hope you're really enjoying your machine and milling like a mad man. lol

I've ordered some 80/20 for my next build and was wondering if during your build if you have came buy any good alternatives to ordering bolts and fittings from 80/20. Something I could possibly pick up locally. Also, if you have any tips or general observations that I may want to keep in mind while I'm designing my next cnc, I'd surely appreciate it.

Hey senna, hope you're really enjoying your machine and milling like a mad man. lol

I've ordered some 80/20 for my next build and was wondering if during your build if you have came buy any good alternatives to ordering bolts and fittings from 80/20. Something I could possibly pick up locally. Also, if you have any tips or general observations that I may want to keep in mind while I'm designing my next cnc, I'd surely appreciate it.

It was pretty anti-climactic to finish the machine as it now sits idle. I don't have the funds to purchase the MACH3 license nor the software I truly would like... ASPIRE. I did hand write some basic G-code to proof the accuracy and just massage all the axis for the neighborhood crowd. That lasted about 3 days. I've been tidying up some of the wiring but haven't cut anything as yet.

For my build I primarily used 5/16-18 X 3/4" button headed cap screws and the economy T-nut fasteners. I got my screws here... http://www.smallparts.com/Alloy-Steel-Button-Screw-16-18/dp/B0017SWGUQ?ie=UTF8&qid=1255297863&pf_rd_r=0WXASH9FVVDKCGCR03DS&pf_rd_p=467590051&pf_rd_i=16410531&sr=1-6&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_m=AIUBT5HP6PMAF&pf_rd_t=101

For the nuts I initially purchased the economy 5/16 -18 t-nuts from the 8020 Garage when I made my big metal purchase but they really hit you up for shipping if you need to purchase small lots... so I found Faztek sells the t-nuts... http://www.faztek.net/proddetail.asp?prod=15FA3501 for less... $.27 ea OR Enco also sells 8020 hardware... http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=1042&PMITEM=510-2111 but slightly higher priced. $.33 ea. Sometimes you can get in on an Enco free shipping offer but they come up only occasionally.

There were places I substituted 5/16 - 18 carriage bolts and ny-loc nuts. This can save a bit of money... but there are a great many places they just won't go.

It's difficult to come up with tips or suggestions off the top of my head... but for sure keep me in the loop on your new build and I'll chime in as things come to me!

Steve

It was pretty anti-climactic to finish the machine as it now sits idle. I don't have the funds to purchase the MACH3 license nor the software I truly would like... ASPIRE. I did hand write some basic G-code to proof the accuracy and just massage all the axis for the neighborhood crowd. That lasted about 3 days. I've been tidying up some of the wiring but haven't cut anything as yet.

For my build I primarily used 5/16-18 X 3/4" button headed cap screws and the economy T-nut fasteners. I got my screws here... http://www.smallparts.com/Alloy-Steel-Button-Screw-16-18/dp/B0017SWGUQ?ie=UTF8&qid=1255297863&pf_rd_r=0WXASH9FVVDKCGCR03DS&pf_rd_p=467590051&pf_rd_i=16410531&sr=1-6&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_m=AIUBT5HP6PMAF&pf_rd_t=101


There were places I substituted 5/16 - 18 carriage bolts and ny-loc nuts. This can save a bit of money... but there are a great many places they just won't go.


Steve

Hey Steve, thanks for the info. Let me ask you, where you say you used 5/16-18 carriage bolts, where you able to slide them into the slots on the 80/20? I have some carriage bolts but they won't fit in the slots on my extrusions. I was wondering if maybe yours had a different width on the slots. This is what I bought. http://www.8020.net/2020-Pop-Up.htm

Hey Steve, thanks for the info. Let me ask you, where you say you used 5/16-18 carriage bolts, where you able to slide them into the slots on the 80/20? I have some carriage bolts but they won't fit in the slots on my extrusions. I was wondering if maybe yours had a different width on the slots. This is what I bought. http://www.8020.net/2020-Pop-Up.htm



FandZ: If I'm not mistaken, Steve used the 15/30 series which uses 5/16ths bolts and yours is the smaller 2020 series which uses 1/4-20 sized bolts.

Steve: it looks fantastic and you've really come quite aways since I last posted. Congrats and I look forward to hearing about your successful completed projects..

You, along with quite a few on here, have inspired me to build my own table which includes a bit of 3030 extrusions.

Thanks,
Dave

FandZ: If I'm not mistaken, Steve used the 15/30 series which uses 5/16ths bolts and yours is the smaller 2020 series which uses 1/4-20 sized bolts.

Steve: it looks fantastic and you've really come quite aways since I last posted. Congrats and I look forward to hearing about your successful completed projects..

You, along with quite a few on here, have inspired me to build my own table which includes a bit of 3030 extrusions.

Thanks,
Dave

Thanks for the tip Dave and Steve did do one hell of a machine.

Dave is correct... I used the 15/30 series extrusions which take the 5/16" hardware... whereas your 20/20 uses 1/4". Since I wasn't specifically looking for the 1/4" stuff I'm uncertain if the two links I gave you have the 1/4" stuff.

There were several areas I used homemade slot nuts... specifically the attachment of my linear rails. The X axis used M3 and the Y axis used M5 SHCS. I was able to spot weld the M5 nuts to some modified washers to create slot nuts for the Y axis... but the M3's were so tiny I couldn't weld those and ended up tapping my own. There's no reason you couldn't do something similar... weld 1/4-20 nuts to a cut fender washer that fits the 20/20 slot... OR if you have more time than money like me... cut and tap your own nuts. I do have to say though that my fingers were sore for weeks after all the tapping!!!

As far as the machine goes... thanks for the compliments guys! I'm hoping to acquire the Mach license soon and then possibly prevail upon some Aspire users to generate some code for me. It doesn't help that my machine completion and heating fuel bills come at the same time. Depending on propane costs... I'm afraid that this year might pose a problematic choice... freezing my a** off BUT machining like a maniac... OR comfortably sitting on my a** and wishing I was machining like a maniac...!!! :D

Steve

Hey Steve, I came across this site that sells mach3 for 145. 30 saved is 30 earned. http://homanndesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7&zenid=0fabf84cf959e059a57dba69580317a1

Hey Steve, I came across this site that sells mach3 for 145. 30 saved is 30 earned. http://homanndesigns.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7&zenid=0fabf84cf959e059a57dba69580317a1

EXCELLENT...!!! Thanks for the link! It's a nice discount which I'm certain I'll take advantage of soon!

Steve