Ok, so I am starting to aquire peices and doing planning on my first CNC 3-Axis machine! :banana: Here's to being broke for the next few months. :cheers:

The design will be similar to the Data-Cut. I am planning on a working area of 24in (Y-Axis) x 30in or 32in (X-Axis). The Z-Axis will be using a 7.5in THK Rail.

1) THK Rails for the X, Y, Z Axis.
2) Ball-Screws for the Y, Z Axis.
3) Belt-Drive for the X Axis.

All of the above will be from Ebay. By my estimate, will run about $250-$350.

The parts I am not sure on:

1) Router. I was thinking of a 1/2hp Porter-Cable?
2) Servos. Not sure here.
3) Controller and PSU. I would like to go Gecko, but they are $$$.
4) Table/Frame. Thinking of Alum. Extrusion like 80/20.

I am mainly going to be machining Acrylic, Plexi, Poly-Carb, Delrin/UHMW. I would also like to be able to machine Aluminum stock up to 1in thick (obviously would be multiple passes).

I am trying to stay under $1000 (hopefully $500) total cost.
So, thoughts? Ideas? Things I should change?

Thanks in advance for the help. This is a great community!

Cost so far:

1) Two 26in Slide Assemblies: $130 (Ebay)
2) Porter Cable Router: $136 (Amazon.Com)
3) One IKO Linear-Rail (Z-Axis): $15 (Ebay)
4) Framing:
- - A) 80/20 Aluminum Structure - 47" x 2: $33 (Ebay)
- - B) 80/20 Aluminum Structure - 36" x 3: $36 (Ebay)

Total: $350
Budget Max: $1000
Left to Spend: $650

JavaDog,
Sounds good so far! A big yes on the Extrusion frame! A bit more expensive but well worth the money, and the fab is easier than most. Are you set on Servos, because I mentioned on a previous thread, Automation Direct just came out with a Stepper combo that is hard to pass up on! All new stuff, with up to 20' of wire (Driver, Motors, Power Supply all configured together and delivered in a few days to the house, all brand new with warrenty...can't beat it).

Gotta ask, where in W. New York. I am in Fla now, but grew up in Alden. Good luck, ask if you need a hand or have any questions.

Regards,
Glen

JavaDog,
Sounds good so far! A big yes on the Extrusion frame! A bit more expensive but well worth the money, and the fab is easier than most. Are you set on Servos, because I mentioned on a previous thread, Automation Direct just came out with a Stepper combo that is hard to pass up on! All new stuff, with up to 20' of wire (Driver, Motors, Power Supply all configured together and delivered in a few days to the house, all brand new with warrenty...can't beat it).

Gotta ask, where in W. New York. I am in Fla now, but grew up in Alden. Good luck, ask if you need a hand or have any questions.

Regards,
Glen

Yeah, I might have a source of near-free extrusion locally - so that makes it easier to go with!

Is there any drawback in accuracy (or speed) or more complication in going with steppers? If not, I am not married to using servos - and in fact - I can source stepper motors for older high-end line printers for free (what specs are important? Amps? Oz? Turns? Steps? What is ideal for Plastic & Alum?).

I am in Buffalo, near Alden. It's funny, every forum I am on I know like 3 people from WNY. I guess we are just to friendly to stay quiet! :cool:

JavaDog, you have champagne tastes on a beer budget :cheers:

Servos, Geckos, THKs, Ball screws, etc. I'd guess that your budget figure should be more like $1500 to $2000 unless you are a great scrounger.

It seems to me that stepper motors are much easier to set up, but servos are capable of faster more reliable motion. If you don't overtax your system, then steppers probably are the way to go.

My recommendation is to set your budget.

Let's say $1000.
That $232 per AXIS
rails $70
ball screw $65
Stepper Motor $65
Cables $10
Switches $2
Aluminum plate $20

That leaves $304 for general machine construction
controller Xylotex $150
Fan $5
DC power supply $50
1/2 hp router $100
frame free???

Used PC free??? or $50

Control software
Mach2 $150 or TurboCNC $60
Programming software
Sheetcam free in beta

Total costs not including software $1001

Anyway, you can see that if you write it out, you can keep track of costs better and it will help you on your Ebay bidding. You can also see if your original estimates are inline or way off base.

Good luck.

Well, I am a good scrounger, but $1000 is going to push this machine out until maybe Dec 2005.

I would really rather go with actual Servos.
What should I look for in a servo when I am hunting?

I have plenty of spare PCs and Monitors for the control system.
Is Autodesk Inventor capable of driving a CNC machine directly. I do all of my CAD work in Inventor. I can export in DXF or DWG format...as well as others.

As for the controllers...are there good Servo controllers that I can build myself? Any with free plans?

Thanks for the input Buscht, it does help quite a bit.

Check out this website,
http://www.homecnc.info/cnc-main.html

I don't know much about servos, other than the motors,encoders, controller, add up to about $1000 minimum without the mechanical part of the machine. That's why I stayed away from them.

Check the classifieds on this forum. Balsaman is selling his 2nd servo router for about $2500. Read his thread on building the machine. Its one of the best ones here.

To my knowledge Autodesk inventor will not drive a CNC machine directly. It just CAD. Once you export in DXF format (for example) you usually need another program to take this drawing and produce G code to run your machine. www.sheetcam.com would work. Then you need a program like MACH2 or TurboCNC to read the G code and control your machine tool.

I just pulled the $1000 out of the air. You can build a unit for $500 for sure.

Use stepper motors.
Don't expect high end speed or cutting power. If done properly, you should get good accuracy however.
You had a pretty reasonable machine, (costwise) until you mentioned cutting 1" aluminum. That requires heavier cutting forces than some of the other materials you want to cut.

Good luck.

Servos don't have to be so expensive, you can get the motors for $17.50 each (search for "my cheap servos" thread), encoders for ~$25 (www.usdigital.com) and drivers for $114 per axis (www.geckodrive.com).

See, though, half of my projects are going to involve Alum....

I guess I could start with just Acrylic and use that to do a $2500 Servo based router later...it's not like the desire will go anywhere! :)

What do you think of the FET3/Cruiser system from StepperWorld (http://209.41.165.153/stepper/FETcruiser.htm)?

Servos don't have to be so expensive, you can get the motors for $17.50 each (search for "my cheap servos" thread), encoders for ~$25 (www.usdigital.com) and drivers for $114 per axis (www.geckodrive.com).

What type of power and accuracy can I expect from such low-cost servos though?

I don't know much about it other than after reading up on this forum, most people recommended the Xylotex instead.

There is a thread by Cold Fusion on this forum, he built a DIY router and cuts aluminum quite a bit. I think that he had a $500 budget and ended up spending $1400. Check it out.

By Graham S's figures, you would spend $469.50 on a servo system. You still need a DC power supply, cabling, control box, and most people use a breakout board. That's roughly $250 more.

I'm not sure what reads the encoders, is it the Gecko's or something else?

JavaDog, Balsaman is selling it for $2500. My guess is that it cost about $1000 to $1500 to build.

What do you think of the FET3/Cruiser system from StepperWorld (http://209.41.165.153/stepper/FETcruiser.htm)?



What type of power and accuracy can I expect from such low-cost servos though?



Everyone I've seen comment on their Stepperworld board wonders why it's so slow. A Xylotex should give you at least twice the speed, more efficiently for the same amount of money.

The low cost servos will give you the same accuracy as the more expensive ones. The encoders actually provide the accuracy with servos. I believe they will provide enough power for your application. You can always gear them down a little for more power (trading off speed).

The design will be similar to the Data-Cut. I am planning on a working area of 24in (Y-Axis) x 30in or 32in (X-Axis). The Z-Axis will be using a 7.5in THK Rail.

1) THK Rails for the X, Y, Z Axis.
2) Ball-Screws for the Y, Z Axis.
3) Belt-Drive for the X Axis.

All of the above will be from Ebay. By my estimate, will run about $250-$350.


I'm not sure how you can build a usable z- axis with 7.5 inch rails. For what you want to do, I'd recommend that your Z-axis have at least 3" of travel. If you can get 3" of travel with 7.5" rails, I doubt it will be very sturdy.

Also remember that you'll typically need about 8 or more inches longer rails than your intended working area, so you'd probably need at least 32" Y rails and 40"+ x rails. These longer rails start to get expensive (even on Ebay). One placve you can save some money is to use the smaller 15mm rails, instead of the more expensive 25 or 30mm. The 15's will still be plenty strong enough for your application.

1) Router. I was thinking of a 1/2hp Porter-Cable?

Do you mean the 1-1/2HP 690? I'd recommend the 892 (2 1/4HP), but it's almost $200. You can get the 690 for maybe under $150. Get one with variable speed, though. Plastic melts fast at high rpm. :)

I'd say it's pretty doubtful you'll be able to stay under $1500, unless you have a free source for the aluminum extrusions. Even with a Xylotex, you'll probably have to pay around $50 each for decent steppers, and that's $300 already. You might want to look at good acme instead of ballscrews. Multiple start screws can give performance close to inexpensive ballscrews, for about 1/2 the price. And if you want to cut 1" aluminum, you might want to think about a smaller machine. Easier to make more ridgid. Good luck.

I'm not sure how you can build a usable z- axis with 7.5 inch rails. For what you want to do, I'd recommend that your Z-axis have at least 3" of travel. If you can get 3" of travel with 7.5" rails, I doubt it will be very sturdy.

So, 12" for the Z-Axis would be about right then? I can do that.

Also remember that you'll typically need about 8 or more inches longer rails than your intended working area, so you'd probably need at least 32" Y rails and 40"+ x rails. These longer rails start to get expensive (even on Ebay). One placve you can save some money is to use the smaller 15mm rails, instead of the more expensive 25 or 30mm. The 15's will still be plenty strong enough for your application.

I've noticed. :p I think I may have to reevaluate my needs.

Do you mean the 1-1/2HP 690? I'd recommend the 892 (2 1/4HP), but it's almost $200. You can get the 690 for maybe under $150. Get one with variable speed, though. Plastic melts fast at high rpm. :)

Yes, the 690 was the one I meant. Typo on my side. Without a doubt I need to go variable speed.

Again, this is the reason I am looking for good steppers or servos - with plastic and a high-speed router, I can push the table pretty fast and keep the cuts nice and clean.

I'd say it's pretty doubtful you'll be able to stay under $1500, unless you have a free source for the aluminum extrusions. Even with a Xylotex, you'll probably have to pay around $50 each for decent steppers, and that's $300 already. You might want to look at good acme instead of ballscrews. Multiple start screws can give performance close to inexpensive ballscrews, for about 1/2 the price. And if you want to cut 1" aluminum, you might want to think about a smaller machine. Easier to make more ridgid. Good luck.

So, let's say I went with a 20" x 20" of usable cutting space. That would mean I would need 28" rails, correct? (Are these (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3845844837&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT) a good price for such a rail?)

Now, don't forget, I was planning to use belt drive (since I have a free source for gears). If belt drive is (i) accurate enough and (ii) strong enough for my stated uses, I will use it on all three axis. That should help cut the costs down since I don't have to buy ballscrews then.

Thanks again guys for all the great info. Really is a learning and fine-tuning process. :wave:

Those are probably $350 new for the set. The pillow blocks are $60 each.

Those are probably $350 new for the set. The pillow blocks are $60 each.

So, if I can manage to get it for under $100 - it is a deal not to be passed up.

With my revised 20" x 20" working area, they would be perfect, right?

Personally, I'd like to have something a little longer if I wanted to acheive 20" of travel. With 20" of travel, it's unlikely you'll be able to cut something 20". Ideally you'd like to have a few extra inches all around. I'd say they are a pretty good deal. THK's are nicer and probably a little easier to use (stronger too), but they'll work just fine for you.

The best thing to do, is try to figure out what you'll need, get all the parts, and then start designing around what you have. If something you have won't work, you can always put it back on Ebay and get something that works for your application.

I'm usually a little hesitant when people ask what they should buy, because something that I might want might not be what they would eventually want. I like to think that if you have to ask somebody else what to buy, you should do more research until you yourself know what you want and/or need. If you rush into something like this, there's a lot better chance of buying things twice (or more). I here about it all the time here. Just my opinion, though. Good luck.

Seems like that if you want to cut 20 inches - and want to figure out how long the rails ought to be you could:
Start with the 20 inches - then: Add, 1/2 the diameter of the router (assume the router is offset and that need to be included next), the offset of the router (bit) from the "back" of the y axis gantry, and then the offset from the back side to the zero point of your 20 inch reference. That ought to be close... unless I missed something (early - gotta get coffee.)
The advantage to putting the router between the Y axis rails, can be seen on my System2 in the member's gallery. The router being between the rails, just add the overall width of the Y Axis gantry to the desired cutting langth - and get that size rail!
:cheers: Jim

You lose the total width of the (whatever) sliding on those rails, measured from the outside of the bearings on that rail. So if I have a 5" wide slide and want to cut 10", I need 15" long rails.

Go get some coffee (chair) :p

Chagrin - Oh - I'm better now - and yer right -- COFFEE!
You can shave an inch or 2 if you "short- couple" the bearings (close spacing) and then let the 2 rails for the Y axis be as wide as they need to be to contain the router etc.
Right, for example; on my set up the bearings take up 4 linear (x axis) inches - but the overall width of the Y gantry is 9 inches. So, THAT 5 extra inches of overhang (9-4 = 5) I don't need to purchase. To get the example, 20inches - I'd need 24 not 29! Seems funny a , "mine is smaller," discussion doesn't it! Buy what you can at a ood price - and make it work for itself the make it bigger!
:cheers: Jim

Well, in the interest of actually building a machine, I have revised my specs further.

10" x 10" working area. Route Plastic, Alum, Copper. Belt Drive.

So, what specs do I need to look for when scavanging Servos or Steppers?

Match the motors with the controller. Steppers - unipolar versus bipolar -
proper amps, voltages, etc.
Steps per revolution is important. 200 per revolution is good. less is OK, but not as desirable because your resolution gets coarser.
For what you are doing, I'd look for something around 250-350 oz in, 23 NEMA mount.

Match the motors with the controller.

Even though they are $$$, I think I am going to use Geckos... :cool:

You probably should go with those servo motors that Graham S suggested.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082&highlight=CHEAP+SERVOS

It seems like everyone has had good luck with them. Jeff Davis was selling them with encoders attached, but I don't know if he has anymore.

Another cost to the servos that no one mentions. You need a timing belt speed reducer for each drive, while stepper motors can be coupled directly to the ball screw.

That's because steppers run better at slow speed, while servos are better at higher speeds. (motor RPM)

You probably should go with those servo motors that Graham S suggested.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082&highlight=CHEAP+SERVOS

It seems like everyone has had good luck with them. Jeff Davis was selling them with encoders attached, but I don't know if he has anymore.

Another cost to the servos that no one mentions. You need a timing belt speed reducer for each drive, while stepper motors can be coupled directly to the ball screw.

That's because steppers run better at slow speed, while servos are better at higher speeds. (motor RPM)

Holy crap those servos are cheap! From what I read in that thread they would be PERFECT for what I want to do. Looks like Jeff isn't selling them anymore, but the encoder he made reference to only brings the total servo+encoder cost to under $50 (like he said).

Well, like I said, I want to try belt drive for all axis - not sure what impact that will have with speed reduction though....

JavaDog, read that thread some more, in it they talk about using a belt drive and a 9:1 reducer. It has to do with the pitch of the timing belt. On a acme thread or ball screw, you can get 10 turns per inch. If your servo is turning 2500 rpm thats 250" per minute. You might want a 2:1 timing belt reducer to get that speed around 125" per minute.

A timing belt might have a pitch of 3/8" (just an example) with a direct drive and 2500 rpm, your speed is 937" per minute. You still need a reducer to get the speed in the correct range, 6:1, 8:1, etc.

The issue is not top end speed, but getting the servo to spin at the proper RPM range at whatever speed you are cutting at. Let's say 20 to 100" per minute depending upon whether you are cutting aluminum or plastic. That way you have full torque when cutting aluminum for example.

I'm not at all an expert on this, more or less just rehashing things that I have read.

The issue is not top end speed, but getting the servo to spin at the proper RPM range at whatever speed you are cutting at. Let's say 20 to 100" per minute depending upon whether you are cutting aluminum or plastic. That way you have full torque when cutting aluminum for example.

Ok, now I am really confused. (chair)

I understand the gear reduction...but doesn't the software, controller, and servo all interact to vary the servos speed??

:drowning: Sorry, I'll bow out of this discussion as my wisdom is only exceeded by my ignorance.

You are right about the software controlling the speeds, etc.

I just know that there is something called a torque curve. You get the highest torque at a specific speed. With steppers, the slower the better and after about 300 rpm, the torque drops off dramatically.

With servos, the torque curve is alot more constant from zero to top speed, but it is still best if you design your mechanical system so you are cutting at the top torque possible.

I'm probably mucking up the waters as my servo knowledge is minimal.
Trent

Sorry, I'll bow out of this discussion as my wisdom is only exceeded by my ignorance.

No need to! You are one of the few providing me insight on this...so please continue to contribute! :cheers:

I just know that there is something called a torque curve. You get the highest torque at a specific speed. With steppers, the slower the better and after about 300 rpm, the torque drops off dramatically.

With servos, the torque curve is alot more constant from zero to top speed, but it is still best if you design your mechanical system so you are cutting at the top torque possible.

Ok, that does make sense. Do you know if there is a formula to figure out optimal cutting speed for optimal torque?? Also, how do different materials vary the speed requirement - or is that something the software speed control handles (once you system is optimized for speed/torque)??

With steppers, the slower the better and after about 300 rpm, the torque drops off dramatically.


Not Necessarily. It depends on a lot of things, but with Geckos and a high enough voltage (depending on the motors), you can get a stepper torque curve that drops off much more gradually, useful maybe up to around 1000 rpm or so.


I'd recommend going with steppers. They're cheaper, and easier to set up and get running. And if you wanted to switch later, there's a pretty strong market for used Geckos.

Mariss from Geckodrive has stated in the past, that servos are preferred when you get to a certain power requirement. Steppers are better suited at the lower end. There is a also a middle ground where both will perform equally well. I don't recall the specifics, but I'm pretty sure that middle ground is still a bit above what you need. Just be sure if you go with steppers, that you're realistic about it. Don't assume 100 oz steppers should do whatever you want. Go for something in the 300 oz-in range, and you should be OK.

Hmmmmm,
If you have access to high end printer steppers, what about the shafts out of them? You should be able to get 10-12" out of wide carriage printer shafting-the high end ones use a fairly thick shaft and if you have access to quantities you could use more than the usual two, say 4 per axis. This would cut costs down and then using the steppers you should be able to keep costs down under 500 easy with software etc.
I don't think you really need to worry about high rapids on a machine with that small a footprint.
Just my 2 cents(Canadian)
I'm actually thinking about building a machine about that size and thats how I'm going to go about it I think. My current machine is stored at the moment for lack of room until I get my shop built.
Regan
Regan

Yeah, I actually have two dot-matrix printers. So, now I have 6 1/8" Rails that are 13" long. Should work for the Z-Axis. I also have a ton of gears, and belt-drive gears, and 26in (total length) belts. Pretty good score from two free printers. I haven't checked the specs on the scrounged steppers yet...

Ok, that does make sense. Do you know if there is a formula to figure out optimal cutting speed for optimal torque?? Also, how do different materials vary the speed requirement - or is that something the software speed control handles (once you system is optimized for speed/torque)??

Different material have different cutting speed requirements depending upon many factors. Its more of a machinist skill rather than a CNC thing.
For example, cutting Walnut you might cut at 45" per min with a 1/4" 2 flute spiral cutter with 15000 spindle RPM. You would use .5" cut depth and a .125" stepover.

Doing the same thing in aluminum might require a 20" per minute cut with only a .25" cut depth.

Copper might be 5" per minute with the other parameters being equal.

So does the software control all of this? Yes and no, Some of the professional (high priced) CAM systems keep all this stuff in a file and you simply have to say what material you are cutting and the cutting conditions are set up for you.

For most of us, you just have to read up a little on your materials, ask some questions, see how its down manually, write all this down on a piece of paper. When you program your parts, use this information to set up the cutting conditions.

I like to think of the CNC issues in 4 areas.

1. Electrical - matching the motors, drivers, power supplies, inputs, outputs, etc.
2. Software - CADCAM - Machine controller
3. Mechanical - router - linear rails- ballscrew/timing belts - table - vacuum holddown
4. Operator - cutting conditions, zeroing machine, putting the right cutter in, calling up the program, cleaning the machine, etc.

Cool, that all makes sense. I am going to go to Borders and look through their Machining section...any books y'all could recommend?

I may end up with a 12" x 20" bed afterall, but that depends on if I win this auction or not! :p

*snip* Do you know if there is a formula to figure out optimal cutting speed for optimal torque?? *snip*

The trick is to maximize power from the motor. Power is proportional to RPM times torque, and since servos have more or less constant torque up to their rated speed you want to run them at their rated (nominal - not necessarily maximum) speed.

So use gearing that will allow the servos to run at nominal speed when the table moves at the fastest cutting speed you will ever use.

I have written a text about this in the FAQ section ("What motor, screw and gearing should I choose?"):
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5866

Arvid

*snip* A timing belt might have a pitch of 3/8" (just an example) with a direct drive and 2500 rpm, your speed is 937" per minute. *snip*

Do not confuse the pitch of a timing belt (i.e. the distance between the belt teeth) with the pitch of a lead screw (number of turns per inch).

As long as the size of the pulleys stays the same you can change the pitch of the belt all you want, or even use a tooth-less belt, and the speed will stay the same (except maybe for slip with a tooth-less belt).

Instead you have to look a pulley RPM and diameter. A pulley with radius r has got a circumference of 2*r*pi. The pulley circumference "travels" this distance once per turn. Linear speed is then pulley RPM times 2*r*pi.

So to get 5 m/min travel (about 200 IPM) with an r = 12.5 mm (about 1/2") pulley, the pulley RPM would have to be 5/(2*0.0125*pi) = ca 64 RPM. To make full use of a 3000 RPM servo you would then have to gear down about 45 times (3000/64)!

So timing belts are better for fast motion with less force demands. Not too good for aluminum, although it's surely possible with oversized servos.

Arvid

Hey Arvid, about time someone who knows what he's talking about chimes in.

Great posts! Thanks for the information. You explain the concepts very well.
Trent

Thanks for the kind words, Trent! :cool:

Arvid

Wow, tons of great information there. I am going to digest the link you posted there, thanks again.


So timing belts are better for fast motion with less force demands. Not too good for aluminum, although it's surely possible with oversized servos.

Arvid

So, you're telling me belt-drive isn't going to work for whatI want to do. :p

I guess I am back to the ($$$) ballscrews then. I just want to make sure I do it right the first time. I can go larger, and keep my good servos and drivers, down the road.

Thinking sideways - and - just wondering...
hmmmm, What about a rack and gear setup? Is the "answer" the same as with belts? (I'm thinking about the, " force demands" as quoted. Is that a result of gearing and slack in the belt? - Or just the torque/rpm.) If a rack and gear setup has the same properties of a belt - why use a belt? But if the rack is better - and not too dear checking at McMaster-Carr - maybe thats an approach! Like to hear the thoughts. :cheers: Jim

Arvid - still hoping some clever chap will do those pic for that great text!

Theoretically, a timing belt used for linear motion will work just like a rack and a pinion. The rack is the belt and the pinion is the pulley. So the same math and physics applies, I'm afraid.

It's all about getting the power from the motor to the part or tool. No matter how you do it, if you want say 100 mm/s feed and 500 N cutting force, you will need 50 W of power at the table (P = F*v = 500*0.1 - and I just realised that my CNCMechanics document says P = F*s, which is wrong :mad: ).

You can get those 50 W there with, say, a 100 W motor running at full power output (nominal RPM and max load) with a 50% efficient ACME screw with a lead giving you exactly 100 mm/s feed at this motor RPM,

or with the same motor running at half its maximum power output (nominal speed/2 and max load) driving a geared down timing pulley along a belt at a speed that gives you 100 mm/s - this has the advantage over the previous alternative in that you could actually go twice as fast if you only wanted to,

or with a cheaper 50 W motor having the same nominal speed as the 100 W above but with half the torque, and a ball screw with the same lead as the ACME above,

or... well the choices are endless. If you had a motor with twice the nominal speed but the same power output (and therefore half the torque) as the ones above, you could just add gearing 2:1 to the above choices and still get the same result. I have assumed here that timing belts and ballscrews are 100% efficient, which should not be too far from the truth.

Arvid

So, am I actually going to run into problems running servos and geckos - driving a belt-drive CNC machine - and doing plastic (80% of the work) and aluminum and copper (other 20%) work??

I am happy to go either way, but since I have a source for belts and gears, the belt drive will be cheaper for me. Cheaper only matters, though, if it can do what I need it to. :p

For the alum, I jsut need to be able to cut oout custom brackets out of 1in stock (with multiple passes). Copper, I am making waterblocks for CPU cooling. I know the 2 1/2HP PC Router I am going to use can handle that stock.

JavaDog,

I'm not saying it won't work, or that you will run into problems (more than anybody else trying to build his/her own CNC machine :)), just showing the possibilities and that some things might work better than others. If you have access to cheap belts and gears, you might want to try that? Do you really need the full power of your servos? You might do very well with a dual 3:1 reduction (9:1 in total), and since timing stuff is cheap for you that reduction would also be cheap.

It's all about weighing pro's and con's together.

[edit: I also want to add that when I'm talking about motor power I'm talking about continuous mechanical output power. Many/most DC motors are marked with peak electrical power which might be 10 times the continuously available mechanical power. Industrial servos are often marked with continuous mechanical power, though.

Electrical power is U*I, mechanical is (rotational movement) ω*M or (linear movement) v*F, where
* U is voltage
* I is current
* ω (omega) is angular velocity [rad/s], 10 RPM = about 1 rad/s
* M is torque [Nm]
* v is velocity [m/s]
* F is force [N]

If you had a 100% efficient motor you would get 1 W of mechanical power for each watt of electrical power you fed it.]

Arvid

Use steppers, and you won't have to gear down nearly as much. Since you don't think your going to need high speeds, I don't see where the servos give you an advantage (other than more torque from the gear reduction, but that comes with the added compexity of the, gear reduction). There is nothing wrong with steppers, if done properly. At least a couple times a week, I read about guys with stepper powered Bridgeports that run just fine. Get some 300-400 oz steppers, and Gecko 201's, and you'll be all set. Just my personal preference.

Just wanted to update. I am working on getting some THK rails as we speak, should know by tomorrow if I got them or not.

If I do manage to get them, my machine will be 30" x 30" with a 10" Z-Axis. :banana: I'm keeping my fingers crossed...


EDIT: Nevermind, I was hoping I had a steal on my hands, but the bidding shot out of control (and my price range!). See: Qty:5 30in Rails with Blocks (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3850041073&ssPageName=STRK:MEBI:IT).

Hi. Check the auction again; it says *not* THK. They put THK in the title so the search engine picks the auction out when you search for THK. AFAIK, THK doesn't make aluminum rails, only steel.

JR

Hi. Check the auction again; it says *not* THK. They put THK in the title so the search engine picks the auction out when you search for THK. AFAIK, THK doesn't make aluminum rails, only steel.

JR

Oh, I knew they weren't THK. I checked out the mfg that makes those, and they look pretty decent. I'm sure IKO and THK are the best, but if I could have picked up all 5 30" rails for under $200, it would have been a steal!

I have a question for y'all.

Would a matched set (2) of THK ballscrews (14mm with 4mm pitch) with the
cylindrical ways, and aluminum stages and platforms for $250, would I be getting ripped off, or would that be a deal? They are in PERFECT used condition. They are 26in long (should be about 20 odd inches of travel, right?).

This would be a HUGE start for my project, but I want to make sure I am getting a good price. Thanks again for the continuing help everyone! :cheers:

JavaDog, that sounds like a good deal to me.
Trent

JavaDog, that sounds like a good deal to me.
Trent

Ok, that is what I was thinking, from prices I have seen everyone mention.

Can I expect 24in of travel, realistically?

I doubt it. If you have the part number, check on the THK website. They are pretty good about showing dimensions.

I'd guess 18" to 20" travel, but without the exact specifications its hard to say.

I doubt it. If you have the part number, check on the THK website. They are pretty good about showing dimensions.

I'd guess 18" to 20" travel, but without the exact specifications its hard to say.

I should be able to get the THK part number. I'll let you know.
I was hoping to have at least 20" x 20" working area minimum, hopefully these will do the trick.

I have a picture of the assemblies:

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/THK.jpg

Is a 14mm ballscrew going to be good enough? Is a 4mm pitch good?

A 14mm ballscrew with 4mm pitch is perfect. You'll get great performance from that. I see that one of the assemblies already has a motor mounted to it. Does that come with it?

I like to stay away from unsupported round ways, but they look like about 1" dia in the picture and at 24" long you should be OK.

A 14mm ballscrew with 4mm pitch is perfect. You'll get great performance from that. I see that one of the assemblies already has a motor mounted to it. Does that come with it?

I like to stay away from unsupported round ways, but they look like about 1" dia in the picture and at 24" long you should be OK.

Yeah, it comes with a Sanyo stepper motor with belt drive. Not sure if the motor will work for me or not...but it's included. :)

Yeah, I would be using these for my X and Y axis. Hopefully I can pick them up...they are out of a silicon chip polishing machine, and were taken care of...

EDIT: I won the auction. Got the pair (26in) for $130. :banana:

Ok, so my Birthday was yesterday (yay me), and I received a nice new Router. However, it is a fixed speed.

So, I am going to bring it back and exchange it for a Variable Speed. They got me a Craftsman 1 1/2hp 8.5amp fixed speed.

I was thinking of exchanging it for a 1 1/2hp 9amp Variable Speed Craftsman, since there is only a $20 difference.

Anyone have any experience with the Craftsman routers? Is this going to be powerful enough for my plastic/alum CNC machine?

Sorry, can't help on the question - But Happy Birthday! You might check out the "quick release" adapter set up that Craftsman makes as an after market item and get a router that is compatible with that too. It looks like it would make tool/bit changing a snap! - Cheers - Jim

Sorry, can't help on the question - But Happy Birthday! You might check out the "quick release" adapter set up that Craftsman makes

Thanks for the birthday wishes.

I think you are talking about this (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00926693000&tab=des#tablink)? Looks interesting, says it has bit-adapters to make them work in the qquick-changer. Wonder if this would work as a low-cost tool-height thing-a-ma-jiggy... :p

Anyone else with thoughts on the router? This is the model I am looking to exchange the other one for. (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00917511000&subcat=Routers+%26+Laminate+Trimmers)

Every small Craftsman router I've ever owned experienced premature run-out wear of the lead spindle bearing. Mainly routing oak. I have a couple of older Craftsman power tools from their 'industrial' line, but nowdays I don't buy Sears power tools.

Here's my pick for under $150...you'll like the extra 1/4 HP, too:

Woodsnarfer's pick (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00006411B/qid=1100814106/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3_etk-tools/102-2992998-6831329?v=glance&s=hi&n=228013)

Amazon has free shipping...but here is another site where I've bought many a tool...slighly better price, but they charge for shipping:

PC at NW Power Tool (http://www.northwestpowertools.com/routers/690lrvs.htm)

-Chris

Well, that would just about kill any chance at accuracy once that happens.

I guess there IS a reason we all go with Porter Cable! I guess I will just take the cash from the return and get that PC... The PC is the one I wanted anyway. :banana:

You guys sure are good at giving me an excuse to spend more money! :p

Is it too late to vote for the Bosch 1617? A woodworking store had a display demonstrating the size of the stators of various 2HP models and the Bosch's was clearly beefier. Well, it's also more expensive.

http://www.toolseeker.com/PowerTools/Routers/1617EVS.asp?var1=1617EVS

Don't forget that you can still buy a "router speed control" for any fixed-speed router ("universal" motor and all that). These run as low as $20 and would probably offer more convenient adjustments to router speed.

// friends don't let friends buy Craftsman routers

Is it too late to vote for the Bosch 1617? A woodworking store had a display demonstrating the size of the stators of various 2HP models and the Bosch's was clearly beefier. Well, it's also more expensive.

It's not that much more, it's a 2 1/4hp for about the same cost as the PC...
Hmm...I dunno. The PCs are regarded as some of the best though.....

Don't forget that you can still buy a "router speed control" for any fixed-speed router ("universal" motor and all that). These run as low as $20 and would probably offer more convenient adjustments to router speed.


Are there any drawbacks to running an external 'speed control' as opposed to getting a router with it built-in?

JavaDog - Yep - that's the tool I was mentioning - the QuickRout by Craftsman. Take a quick look and note how it mounts (in person) before you go too far down the track... It says its good for all Craftsman routers made, but not my 20+ year old one! :frown: You'll see it doesn't fit into the existing collet, but replaces it, and mounts on the shaft.

Are there any drawbacks to running an external 'speed control' as opposed to getting a router with it built-in?

I find it easier to have the speed contol closser at hand than mounted on the router. But you'll want to check the amp capacity and make sure it has the grunt to do the start and run. BTW, you can find these pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
:cheers: Jim

I find it easier to have the speed contol closser at hand than mounted on the router. But you'll want to check the amp capacity and make sure it has the grunt to do the start and run. BTW, you can find these pretty cheap at Harbor Freight.
:cheers: Jim

Yeah, I think it would be nice to have the control on a lead too.

My slide assemblies came in today!! They are GORGEOUS!! They look like they are brand new, and move so silky. Just amazing...

See for yourself:

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Rails_1.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Rails_2.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Rails_3.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Rails_4.jpg
Mmmm...so nice.

Both rails were $130 (for the pair, not each) off of Ebay. :banana:

Ok, so I have been toying around with ideas for a Gantry. Tell me what you guys think of this idea...

Pictures should explain better than 3000 words:

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Gantry_1.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Gantry_4.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Gantry_5.jpg

The router would be mounted 'sideways' (to the std. way of mounting). The quad-rails/slides would add some strength/rigidity...I think. Plus, this would keep the router dead-center of the Y-Axis.

I am not an engineer, though, so I am looking for your thoughts and ideas. Feel free to critique! :)

Of course, I can add bracing to the sides to tie everything together even more, if that would make a difference or not...

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Gantry_6.jpg

Drawing sheet...

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/CAD_Sheet.jpg

Remember, these were just quick renders to get the idea out of my head and into a drawing, so scale is not spot on...

JavaDog - I used a similar approach and have a thought to add:
If you mount the servo/stepper on the side opposite or behind the router/spindle, you'll get a more "ballanced" loading on the gantry. I did that but placed the motor at the top of the z axis - next time I'd put ait at the bottom like the router.
BTW very nice pics and what a great score on eBay! Cheers - Jim
Note - you'll be trading off y axis length with my suggested approach (the added width of the servo/stepper mount.)

Hmm...servos on the bottom backside of the router? Interesting idea, I'll have to add that in the drawing and see how I feel about it.

I may have to go with the more tried and true method (common two rail) mounting for my first machine. This quad-rail was just an idea I had...

I too have the cnc router bug. I recently have finished it but have little time on the machine. I wish you all the best on your project.

I too have the cnc router bug. I recently have finished it but have little time on the machine. I wish you all the best on your project.

Thanks! Any pictures of yours? Build log?

Now that Christmas is over (whew, Cash only this year, didn't use the plastic for anything!) I will be putting more time into this project.

I am in the proccess of ordering up the 80/20 for the frame. The servos and encoders and Geckos will come with my Yearly Bonus - which is a month away.

I want to be dialing-in this machine within 3-4 months, max.
:cheers:

Well, I'm partial to driving the center of everything....you run into less torsional problems. What are the diameter of the rails? I did the calculations a few weeks back for someone on the amount of deflection (sag) with end supported shafting and I have it somewhere...perhaps you can search for it....you will be surprised at the diameter of shafting that you need.

I'm starting to play with my router. One thing I have to fix is, the rod for the linear bearings is just chrome rod not thomson rod. I'm getting flex when I plunge into a part. As for some pics , here are a few.

Looks nice. I like the design, execution looks good.

What are you using for inserts on the linear bearings? bushings of delrin or something with ballbearings in it?

Do you find that the 2 rods per side on the X? work well, any binding, etc?

the double rod on the x axis did work quite well.I wish I would have done something similar on the y axis. I think Thomson rod will fix my flexing problem. I am using ball type linear bearings that I purchased on E-Bay. If your looking for ballscrews, I found the 16mm ballscrews and nuts are reasonably priced at McMaster-Carr. I also used angular contact bearings back to back and they also work well. My only problem so far is the flexing problem on the y axis.

Ok, so with the season came Tax Returns! I had earmarked some of this money in advance for more parts.

I am kicking around the idea of a moveable table/fixed gantry CNC machine.
Y-Axis and Z-Axis on the Gantry, and the X-Axis would be the moveable table.
Aluminum plate and 80/20 for the frame. MDF table-top.

I drew up some basic plans in MS-Paint, any insight on the idea would be great.

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC_Idea.jpg

You are going to want the gantry mounted further back, so that where the tool actually is will be right in the center of the tables travel. Sounds good otherwise though.

You are going to want the gantry mounted further back, so that where the tool actually is will be right in the center of the tables travel. Sounds good otherwise though.

Not sure I follow. I thought that was how I had set it up in the drawing?

I'm still not totally sold on the moving table design though. Seems like it is equally complicated either way! :D I really like the machine Furry has in the gallery though - moving gantry - but it looks very clean and straighforward...

I have a moving table machine (both X and Y). It definitely takes up more room and chips and dust get all over the ball screws and linear slides.

I am working on a fixed bed machine to eliminate these nuisances.

Not sure I follow. I thought that was how I had set it up in the drawing?

I'm still not totally sold on the moving table design though. Seems like it is equally complicated either way! :D I really like the machine Furry has in the gallery though - moving gantry - but it looks very clean and straighforward...

I think hobbiest speaks about having the gantry mounted back in order to having *the spindle* centered to the table travel.

Moving table is easier to build but demands more real state. Moving gantry is more compact but is not so rigid and not so easy to build.

/F

I think hobbiest speaks about having the gantry mounted back in order to having *the spindle* centered to the table travel.

Moving table is easier to build but demands more real state. Moving gantry is more compact but is not so rigid and not so easy to build.

/F

Well, just kicking the idea around it almost seems like it would be more costly to build a moving table (longer rails, dual-bed, etc). But maybe I am just thinking to hard into it.

I guess if Buscht is (esentially) saying that he would have rather built a fixed bed the first time, I might as well stick with the tried and true moving gantry design.

I just found a local supplier who can hook me up with scrap 6061 and is willing to work with the 'small guy' (only a $20 min order). They aren't open on the weekend, but I am planning to head on down and start buying some Alum plate and maybe get this show on the road!!

Guys, I have a bit of a problem (I think).

Those assemblies I bought off of ebay...well, I took off the plate that ties the screw to the bearing on the round-ways. I was planning on getting everything measured and start drawing out plans.

When I move the bearings on the round way, it feels like the bearings are "chunky". The movement isn't super smooth. Now, maybe I am expecting too much - but how smooth are bearing blocks on round-ways supposed to be??

I'm not sure if there is any way I can show you guys how they move, I am going to try and shoot a small video though - maybe it'll help you guys see what I mean.

I think I know what you mean. Mine are brand new, in the box, and feel kinda like they move in small steps. Put a load on them, though, and they move pretty smoothly. In your hands, they feel a lot different than thk type

I think I know what you mean. Mine are brand new, in the box, and feel kinda like they move in small steps. Put a load on them, though, and they move pretty smoothly. In your hands, they feel a lot different than thk type

Ah, Ok...that is what I was hoping. Yeah, when they are connected to the ballscrew and each other they seem to move very smooth. I hooked my drill up to the screw and it just flew back and forth down the rails with no issue.

Maybe the design them to need a load to be smooth? Oh, they are THK bearings, btw.

I meant the other type of thk. :)

Heh, so I decided to play around and make a video of them being driven with my cordless drill. I'm such a dork, but I couldn't resist sending my camera along for a ride too. (chair)

Check it out. (http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/THK_Test.wmv)

Nothing too amazing, but it sure is fun to watch them go back and forth! I can see why spinning the motors before you finish the machine can be such trouble! :)

Ok, I am working on measuring out the base for my machine so I can order my 80/20 (I'm using 1515). Thursday I want to go down to the metal shop and pick up some Alum. plate for making the gantry...but I have a problem.

How in the world do you work out how tall your gantry sides need to be? Also, what is a good width for the sides of the gantry (not plate thickness)?

If you have a large span then I would go with 3015 heavy or the next larger size. Width for sides of the gantry use width of 2 bearing trucks separated by 6 inches....they can be wider at the bottom then at the top. Gantry height is dependent on the maximum thickness of the material that you'll cut + length of the longest cutter + an extra inch of vertical adjustment + length of the spindle...your maximum adjustment then is the 1inch + the distance to the table which would be your z-axis travel.

Width for sides of the gantry use width of 2 bearing trucks separated by 6 inches....they can be wider at the bottom then at the top.

Well, with the parts I have now I don't think I can dedicate that much spacing for the mounting of the gantry sides.

Gantry height is dependent on the maximum thickness of the material that you'll cut + length of the longest cutter + an extra inch of vertical adjustment + length of the spindle...your maximum adjustment then is the 1inch + the distance to the table which would be your z-axis travel.

OK, I think I will wait until I get the parts for the Z-Axis in my hot little hands before I start making the gantry...makes sense.

Gantry height is dependent on the maximum thickness of the material that you'll cut + length of the longest cutter + an extra inch of vertical adjustment + length of the spindle...your maximum adjustment then is the 1inch + the distance to the table which would be your z-axis travel.

You might also want to make sure you can reach the table with the shortest cutter you'll be using.

You might also want to make sure you can reach the table with the shortest cutter you'll be using.

Heh yeah, I would imagine that could be a bit of a problem.

Just won an auction for a rail that I plan on using for my Z-Axis.

Check it out:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/IKO_Rail.jpg
Brandy new, not even opened. Not too shabby for $10. :D

Just out of curiosity, how exactly does one measure actual travel?? I'm not sure if I have been doing it correctly... (nuts)
For example, the rail above for my z-axis, looking at the picture and tape measure, I'm guessing it will have about 4" of travel??

Travel depends on the design. I would consider actual travel how far the spindle will actually move.

Space your bearings apart to where they will be when mounted to the Z, placing them all the way at the end of the rail. Measure from face of bearing (closest to) to end of rail. In the photo, the way you have it laid out, it would be about 5" (9.5 to 4.5 on your tape. Turn the tape around and hook opposite end to make it easy)

Space your bearings apart to where they will be when mounted to the Z, placing them all the way at the end of the rail. Measure from face of bearing (closest to) to end of rail. In the photo, the way you have it laid out, it would be about 5" (9.5 to 4.5 on your tape.

Ok, so I was doing it just about right. So, this should work great for my Z-axis then.

Is it ok to keep the bearings butted up like in the picture? I was planning on doing it that way (assuming it is ok).

Turn the tape around and hook opposite end to make it easy)

Heh, this is the picture that was in the auction. I will take better photos when I get it in my hands (few days hopefully!).

Is it ok to keep the bearings butted up like in the picture? I was planning on doing it that way (assuming it is ok).

shouldn't cause too much of a problem. Make your tool mounting plate very rigid though.

shouldn't cause too much of a problem. Make your tool mounting plate very rigid though.

I was planning on 1/2" 6061...that should be rigid enough, right?

I would think so. Especially if kept on the shorter side (i.e. not too much longer than your spindle)

Ok, it's time again for a wonderful MS-Paint "Cad" drawing.

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/Zaxis.jpg

Now this is a very oversimplified drawing of how I am thinking of laying out my Z-Axis. Rail would be centered and the Ballscrew would be to the left or right of the rail. The plate the router is on would have a block on the back for the ballscrew.

In case you are wondering where the servo driving the ballscrew would be:

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/Zaxis2.jpg
- Edited to reflect Buscht's idea. -

So, does this look like a solid idea?

Your concept is fine. I would mount the servo at the top though. I like to keep everything as far away from the router as possible. Dust, dirt, and general crud could build up around the motor.

Easy enough...I wan't sure if it was better to have all the weight on the bottom or not. The Z-Axis is usually pretty complicated (from what I have seen) so I came up with this design and tried to follow the K.I.S.S. principle. I figure that the simplier I keep my design the easier this will all go together, I can only hope. :rolleyes:

So, before I order my servos (ones from the Cheap Servos (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2082&highlight=CHEAP+SERVOS) thread) I wanted to make sure all my ducks were in a row.

So, for the control I will need Software, Servos + Encoders, Breakout board, powersupply, drivers.

Software: TBD
Driver: Gecko G320 (http://www.geckodrive.com/item.htbml?order_id=&item_id=G320)
Servos and Encoders: Clifton 30v (http://www.automec-direct.netfirms.com/html/motor_details.html) and USDigital E2 with 250cpr wheel (http://www.usdigital.com/products/e2/).

I have no idea what I should do for a powersupply, or what to look for??

Is the PMDX-121 (http://www.pmdx.com/PMDX-121/index.html) Breakout Board from this thread (http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=67254#post67254) a good option with the set-up I am doing?

I thought I read somewhere that those servos were sold out. Let me know if they are still available.

Cost so far:

1) Two 26in Slide Assemblies: $130 (Ebay)
2) Porter Cable Router: $136 (Amazon.Com)
3) One IKO Linear-Rail (Z-Axis): $15 (Ebay)
4) Framing:
- - A) 80/20 Aluminum Structure - 47" x 2: $33 (Ebay)
- - B) 80/20 Aluminum Structure - 36" x 3: $36 (Ebay)

Total: $350
Budget Max: $1000
Left to Spend: $650

I thought I read somewhere that those servos were sold out. Let me know if they are still available.
I emailed them after reading your post. Here was the reply:


Sorry...no longer available. All have sold out.
Well, that sucks. Anyone have any leads on some other Servos?

Also, I added a "Build Cost" tally on the first post (also, added 1 post above)

Jeff at Homecnc.info was selling them with encoders already mounted. Check with him.

Jeff at Homecnc.info was selling them with encoders already mounted. Check with him.

Yeah, he still has some listed:

HomeCNC Technologies is proud to offer NEW Poly-Scientific 430 Peak oz/in servo motors with Encoders. These motors are perfect in size for a Drill Mill conversion to CNC. They are 2-1/4" Dia X 5-1/2" long with a 1/4" shaft. The motors come with a 250 CPR Quadrature Encoder that works great with a G320/G340 Drive from Gecko Drives.

Price for a servo motor is $150.00 USD + $7.00 USD (Within the US) each for shipping.

Ouch. I mean, not a bad price, but a lot more than I was looking to spend. Although they do sound like pretty beefy servos.

email him and see if he still has the CLifton servos. I'm not sure if he ever had them listed on his site, but he was selling them as well.

Well Javadog, it looks like you have scored some cracking bargains on ebay !
Those item's would go for nearly double that price in the UK.

Looking forward to seeing the construction come together.

Cheers

email him and see if he still has the CLifton servos. I'm not sure if he ever had them listed on his site, but he was selling them as well.

Yup, has 3 with encoders right now. Still looking at $300 for all three (with encoders!)...but, what can I do. They seem to be some pretty nice motors, and everyone that is using them has only good things to say about them.

Plus, I wouldn't even know where to start to find an alternate option for DC motors that would be good or better...

Well Javadog, it looks like you have scored some cracking bargains on ebay !
Those item's would go for nearly double that price in the UK.

Looking forward to seeing the construction come together.


Thanks, so far I am doing pretty good on budget, IMHO.
I can't wait to see this done too!! :banana:

I have my second order of 80/20 coming in tomorrow. Looks like I should be able to (hopefully) get down to work this weekend. Not quite sure how I am going to cut my 80/20 though, as I only have a handheld circular saw. Maybe I'll have to go buy a good compund...

Well, I haven't gotten as much work done as I would have like. The Lady and I are house hunting, and I have been working on winning some Gecko Drives in my spare time. Lost the first two competitions, but I am giving the Mach3 Splash-Screen contest everything I have!! :devious:

So, hopefully more updates soon. :D

I'm a little frustrated with those contests, graphics is not my thing. I was hoping that there would be some diversity in the skills required for the different contests.

Pete C.

I'm a little frustrated with those contests, graphics is not my thing. I was hoping that there would be some diversity in the skills required for the different contests.

Pete C.

They're working on that.

I'm a little frustrated with those contests, graphics is not my thing. I was hoping that there would be some diversity in the skills required for the different contests.

Pete C.

Pretty sure Benny said they were planning some non-graphic contests as well. I really dislike the random 'from-a-hat' style ones though...

EDIT: Ger beat me to it... :p

Like who can climb a power pole the fastest...or make it a cnc junkyard wars type of thing...ok, maybe that one was too much. Good luck with the house hunting.

Hey guys, I am looking at a ballscrew for my Z-Axis.

Is $100 for a used THK BNT 1404 (14mm, 382mm lenght, 280mm travel, 4mm per turn) with end bearings - is that a good deal? Would it be a good match for a Z-Axis?

It looks like a good deal to me, but only because it has the end bearings (assuming you mean a total bearing block) and its in good shape.

I always compare to the 5/8 McMaster Carr ballscrew
nut $25.00
nut mounting block $20.00
screw 15" @$1.09 per inch = 16.35
cost to machine the ends $40
(4) roller skate bearings = $6
total cost for new $107.35

So, if you get the whole bearing block its a good deal.

Thanks Buscht. That is a good way to price out ballscrews, I'll remember that.

Hey, I'm sure eveyone has already found this, but I just came across a site that has free 3D and 2D CAD files (just about every format too) for a whole TON of parts, including Linear Ways. You can customize everything (number of blocks, lenght etc etc) and it will build the custom part and export in whatever file format you want!

For example, this is the 3D Inventor5 file I got from the site for my LWLF42 Z-Axis slide:

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/IKO_Linear_Way.jpg

Check out the site: Here (http://parts.web2cad.co.jp/PowerPartsOnWeb.ppow?)

Doesn't work well in Firefox, had to use IE.

JavaDog...is that from Jimsonchan? I believe Swede bought a less then exciting spindle from him....check around for other buyers.

JavaDog...is that from Jimsonchan? I believe Swede bought a less then exciting spindle from him....check around for other buyers.

As a matter-of-fact, yes. I was kinda leery, he is charging quite a bit for shipping, and there is one guy (with zero feedback) that seems to bid up his auctions. :wee: If other people on the board have had problems, I will stay away...

Well, I am just sitting here idling.

Working on scrounging up more cash so I can get the Ballscrew for the Z-Axis as well as the rest of the Aluminum and 80/20 fasteners I need. Not to mention the Geckos and software.... *sigh*

Anyhow, I'm trying to decide if I am going to buy a shop-table with wheels to mount my router on or if I am better off building one from 80/20. I do need to be able to roll this whole system. I was kicking around the idea of something similar to the Data-Cut (http://www.data-cut.com/router.html) design (only smaller). Any thoughts?

Alright...got a Ballscrew on the way for my Z-Axis! :cheers:

I'm going to try and mock up my Z-Axis in MDF this weekend and also hopefully start on the frame.

I'm thinking of using 1" Alum plate on the ends, with the 80/20 making up the sides/bed - like on the K2CNC machines. Sound good?

Edit: heh, I post way too much in my own thread... (nuts)

I am using some 1-1/2" square 8020 and its very rigid. I put 2 pieces side by side to make a rectangle 1-1/2 x 3" and its about perfect for a platform to attach the bearing mounts and plate for a stepper motor.

I am using some 1-1/2" square 8020 and its very rigid. I put 2 pieces side by side to make a rectangle 1-1/2 x 3" and its about perfect for a platform to attach the bearing mounts and plate for a stepper motor.

So, you're more for making the whole frame out of 80/20...kinda like Santini's Machine?

Thing is, I am trying to figure out how I will mount the rails (unsupported) to an all-80/20 frame...?

Javadog, Not really. I reread part of this thread because I get mixed up on who is doing what sometimes. I see that you were going to use 8020 and aluminum plates all along. You should use whatever item is apppropriate. (or whatever you can get cheaper).

Javadog, Not really. I reread part of this thread because I get mixed up on who is doing what sometimes. I see that you were going to use 8020 and aluminum plates all along. You should use whatever item is apppropriate. (or whatever you can get cheaper).

Yeah, I already have the 80/20 I need. Plus, I have a good deal on scrap Alum. from a local metal-guy.

Really, my machine is going to be VERY similar (with a few of my own tweaks) to the K2 KT-2514 (http://www.k2cnc.com/KT-2514_detail.asp) in design. Although, it will be 22"x22"x5" in size.

Time to stop talking and get building! :boxing:

Well, due to some sickness in the family I didn't get a whole lot done this weekend (of anything). But, family comes first.

I did get my new Ballscrew for the Z-axis, as I said a few days back. Here it is in all its glory:

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Zaxis_Ballscrew1.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Zaxis_Ballscrew2.jpg

Ain't it sexy! The motion on it is tight, fast, and very smooth. Has approx 5.75in travel. Since my IKO rail for my Z-axis has 5.5in of travel, it is a perfect addition.

I got a tip from a friend that works at Sears. He said to check out the DeWalt DW618 (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=5575) router. I gotta say, I think I may go with this over the Porter Cable.

Check out the specs:

2-1/4 HP (maximum motor HP), 12.0 Amp electronic variable speed motor provides the power to rout smoothly through the toughest hardwoods

Electronic variable speed with full feedback control for constant speed under load from 8,000-24,000 rpm and soft start to reduce start-up torque for enhanced control

Detachable cordset offers cordset serviceability and the ability to use the same motor pack for all bases

Heavy duty, precision machined, die-cast aluminum base and motor housing for durability and low tool weight

Self-releasing, long, eight slotted collets for better bit retention and eliminating frozen bits.

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/Dewalt_DW618.jpg

All this, and street price is $160-$180. :cheers:

Ok, I will be ordering my Servos today or tomorrow. I am getting the Poly-Sci servos from Jeff at HomeCNC. :cool:

From what Jeff said, they should be good:

I would say you should be fine with the 360 oz/in servos. At 2:1 you will have 720 oz/in at 2150 / 2 = 1075 RPM with 36VDC input at the screw.

I am the proud owner of three new Poly-Sci servos. :cheers:

Specs:

* 360 oz/in peak torque (That's 22.5 in/lbs!)
* 20 AMPS peak current (That's 18 oz/in per amp supplied)
* New 250 CPR USDigital Encoder (installed) That means 1000 pulses per revolution
* 36 VDC Nominal Terminal Voltage
* Fully Tested on a Gecko G320 servo drive

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Servos.jpg

<drool!> Very nice! You got some stonking bits there...can't wait to see it all coming together.

So are these cheap (relatively) normal DC motors with encoders added on?
Did you say you were going for a 2:1 belt reduction?

<drool!> Very nice! You got some stonking bits there...can't wait to see it all coming together.

So are these cheap (relatively) normal DC motors with encoders added on?
Did you say you were going for a 2:1 belt reduction?

They are servos from Poly-Sci. Sorta cheap...but the Clifton DC motors (almost the same thing) were only $15 each at one point. Now, you're paying for the convenience of having three matched motors/encoders. Jeff (HomeCNC) sells these with the US-Digital encoders attached. He suggested that a 2:1 is a good range to run these...I haven't bought any belts/gears yet...and I am open to any feedback anyone has.

Ok, I am trying to figure out if I should go for the PMDX-122 (http://www.pmdx.com/PMDX-122/index.html) breakout board or the CNC4PC (http://www.cnc4pc.com/Parallel_Port_Interface_Card.htm) breakout board.

I think the CNC4PC is the winner though, because the Relay board (http://www.cnc4pc.com/Solid_State_Relay_Board.htm) supports up to 13amp for the spindle (and my router is rated at 12 amps) and three 5-amp devices (like my vaccum). Jeff from HomeCNC was supposed to be reviewing these <hint hint> :stickpoke

Now, on the CNC4PC board they show a Power Supply (http://www.cnc4pc.com/Mini_Power_Supply.htm) to power the breakout board. Am I safe in thinking that I wouldn't need to buy this and I could just use the 12v/5v from a spar PC power supply (which I will already be using to power my Gecko drives - if that is OK)??

Also, can I make the Charge Pump (http://www.cnc4pc.com/Safety_Charge_Pump.htm) board work with OneCNC XR? Is it even neccesary?

The biggest question is will I be able to make the Breakout board and the Relay board all work with OneCNC XR so the software will start-stop my router and vaccum, and responde to E-Stop and Limit Switches (maybe I should ask this in the OneCNC forum?)?

I am going to try and decide and order today - so if anyone has any feedback/thoughts...please share. :cheers:

OneCNC has nothing to do with controlling your machine. It will just provide the g-code. The charge pump works with Mach2/3 only. It's a good idea to use it, as it keeps your motors from moving if Mach2 is not running.

Hey Java thought I would check you thread and saw this post. What controller are you using? The following statement is what makes me ask.

"Also, can I make the Charge Pump board work with OneCNC XR? Is it even neccesary?"

OneCNC is a cad/cam package and not a controller, at least the last time I checked. The charge pump circuit sounds like maybe you might be talking about Mach2/3 and if so I would recommend you take a look at the Sound Logic breakout board made by Jim Cullins and sold by Bob Campbell. It is more money than the cnc4pc board for sure but it is a really nice setup and easy to install.

BTW if you have not decided on a controller yet you really need to look at Mach2. I know you are trying to keep this on a tight budget but Mach2 has some benefits that many overlook. Free upgrades, multiple machine installs at no extra charge and the ability to run a mill, lathe, router or plasma all with the same software and for the same price! :) IMHO you just can't beat a deal like that.

Mike

Hmm...I guess I was under the false impression that XR actually ran the Gcode and controlled my machine (at least, that was the impression I got from the demo).

OneCNC has nothing to do with controlling your machine. It will just provide the g-code. The charge pump works with Mach2/3 only. It's a good idea to use it, as it keeps your motors from moving if Mach2 is not running.
If I really do need Mach2/3 as well to run the Gcode and controll my machine - so be it. What's another $150 after spending $1000 on XR! :p

The Campbell Designs board is a lot more expensive! Honestly, what more do I really get for the money? The CNC4PC board looks to have all the same features, with the benefit of modularity...perhaps I am missing something?

I wonder if Jeff (HomeCNC) ever got a chance to test out the CNC4PC boards?

The Campbell Designs board is a lot more expensive! Honestly, what more do I really get for the money? The CNC4PC board looks to have all the same features, with the benefit of modularity...perhaps I am missing something?

I wonder if Jeff (HomeCNC) ever got a chance to test out the CNC4PC boards?

I have the full set of boards from CNC4PC. I have not had the chance to build another controller with them (yet). I've been too busy getting started on my house/shop building. The breakout board from CNC4PC is a standard board with no fancy options on it. I for one, don't really need the charge pump circuit because I never have my CNC controller ON before my PC is up and running with Mach 2 running. This only makes sense anyway. Why would I have the machine controller on with NO controller up and ready to control it!!!

I have the full set of boards from CNC4PC. I have not had the chance to build another controller with them (yet). I've been too busy getting started on my house/shop building. The breakout board from CNC4PC is a standard board with no fancy options on it. I for one, don't really need the charge pump circuit because I never have my CNC controller ON before my PC is up and running with Mach 2 running. This only makes sense anyway. Why would I have the machine controller on with NO controller up and ready to control it!!!

I guess that makes perfect sense! Plus, I would have the Controller Board/Geckos on a switched PSU...so they would only be on when I want them to be.

Any thoughts on using a PC PSU to power the Geckos and the CNC4PC board if I go with this?

I have no idea now, more confused than before. The Cambell Design board looks nicer, and I like the higher rating on the 'should-have-been-included-at-that-price' relay board. Plus, the fact that it has an onboard PSU for it and the geckos is very nice.

Gah...what a pita. I can't wait until I start shopping for a power supply for my servos. (chair)

Any thoughts on using a PC PSU to power the Geckos and the CNC4PC board if I go with this?


I emailed CNC4PC about using a PC PSU, here was his response for those interested (like me!):

The computer power supply is fine for powering the card and the Geckos. The
relay board will work fine with the 12 amp router.

Regards,
Arturo Duncan

Ok, I think I am about to just say 'screw it' and order the lower-cost CNC4PC board. :boxing: To be honest, I can live without a relay board until I get a dedicated shop.

I really can't find any major differences in the function of all these different boards - it seems like my servo/controller/software choices are much more important...I'm wasting too much time on such a small part, IMHO... ;)

Javadog,
Hey man, I ordered the whole set of boards from Arturo and have been very happy with both the boards and the price. I have built seveal systems since then and I am still using them and very pleased. I think you will be far better off using the power supply he has rather than a pc one. The other nice thing, you can make room for the different boards and add them to your cabinet when you decide to get them later. At some time you are going to want to be able to control the router from the software (I hate to have to put my beer down to get up and turn on the mill). Good luck, you will not be sorry you decided to go this route.

Regards,
Glen

Javadog,
Hey man, I ordered the whole set of boards from Arturo and have been very happy with both the boards and the price. I have built seveal systems since then and I am still using them and very pleased. I think you will be far better off using the power supply he has rather than a pc one. The other nice thing, you can make room for the different boards and add them to your cabinet when you decide to get them later. At some time you are going to want to be able to control the router from the software (I hate to have to put my beer down to get up and turn on the mill). Good luck, you will not be sorry you decided to go this route.

Regards,
Glen

Awesome, good to hear from someone that is running them! Thanks! :cheers:

Any reason you say that about the PSU? I guess it really wouldn't make a difference to me. It looks like it will have enough 5v lines so I can power my DC fans to keep the enclosure cool as well.

I get Belkin acbles at cost, so I was thinking of ordering this cable (http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=&Product_Id=16718) to connect my PC to the breakout board.

Javadog,
As for the power supply, I prefer to use a stand alone and not rely on the PC for power. There are plenty of 5vdc for the Geckos/BoB's and yes fans, plus there are the 12vdc for sensors/prox that you will use for your limits. Heck at 26 bucks you cant go wrong.
Good luck man,
Glen

Javadog,
As for the power supply, I prefer to use a stand alone and not rely on the PC for power. There are plenty of 5vdc for the Geckos/BoB's and yes fans, plus there are the 12vdc for sensors/prox that you will use for your limits. Heck at 26 bucks you cant go wrong.
Good luck man,
Glen

Thanks. Made up my mind...better than hacking up a spare PSU.
I going to order everything now. :)

I have just been reading back some of your posts Javadog and this machine is going to be the business.

I'm envious at some of the components you have sourced and at great prices !

How is the assembly planning out ?

Cheers

I have just been reading back some of your posts Javadog and this machine is going to be the business.

I'm envious at some of the components you have sourced and at great prices !

How is the assembly planning out ?

Cheers

I'm envious, your machine is running! I still have a ways to go. :D

Assembly is on hold until I get my next order in from 80/20 (More Extrusion and T-Nuts). This build is giving me an excuse to buy some tools I needed too.

For example, I jsut bought my first Tap and Die (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00952344000&subcat=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies) set. I am also buying my first Compound Miter Saw (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=2921) and Drill Press (http://www.deltawoodworking.com/index.asp?e=136&p=1153) - these are "hidden" costs from my Build Cost (and my Fiance) though. :p

I have to update my Cost Tally...

Cost so far:

1) Two 26in Slide Assemblies: $130 (Ebay)
2) DeWalt DW618 Router: $168 (Check Froogle)
3) One IKO Linear-Rail (Z-Axis): $15 (Ebay)
4) Framing:
- - A) 80/20 Aluminum Structure - 47" 1515 x 2: $33 (Ebay)
- - B) 80/20 Aluminum Structure - 36" 1020 x 3: $36 (Ebay)
- - C) 80/20 Aluminum Structure - 36" 1530 x 4: $102 (Ebay)
- - D) 80/20 - Double T-Nut - #3279 - x 60pcs: $45 (Ebay)
- - - - I went a bit overboard on the T-Nuts.
5) 8in Ballscrew for Z-Axis: FREE!
6) CNC4PC Breakout Board, PSU, Charge Pump: $67 (CNC4PC Website)
7) Poly-Sci DC Servos with US-Digital Encoders x3: $321 (Ebay - HomeCNC)
8) Aluminum Plate - Assorted - For End-Plates and Z-Axis: $150 (Metal Supermarkets)

Total: $1067
Budget Max: $2000
Left to Spend: $933

That's one impressive list of parts.

And even more impressive is the price you picked them up for.

I can only describe your compound mitre saw as *Awesome*, ;)

What stage are you at now ? Should we see some more pics soon ?

cheers

That's one impressive list of parts.

And even more impressive is the price you picked them up for.

I can only describe your compound mitre saw as *Awesome*, ;)

What stage are you at now ? Should we see some more pics soon ?

cheers

Yeah, that mitre saw is sexy init?

I am in the building stage...but I am having some issues decided how large to make my gantry and what thickness I should go with on the Alum.

I am thinking 1" for the end-plates for the base/frame. 1/2" for the gantry sides and bottom. Not sure if the 1/2 will make my gantry too heavy though, and I am a bit worried about the deflection I am going to get on my unsupported rails...

Just got back from the metal supplier. Sadly, they didn't have as much Aluminum plate scrap as they made it sound. 'Course, that didn't stop me from buying some plate to play with. $2 a pound adds up fast though!

So, I didn't get what I need for the end-plates and the gantry - I guess I am going to have to find another source/supplier. The only way I could get the 1/2" 6061 from these guys was if I bought a 4ft x 4ft sheet for $185. Plus, about another $100 in labor to plasma cut it all. They had scrap in the size I needed in Stainless for the same $2 a pound - but I think drilling and tapping all the holes might be a problem? So, this is a little set-back...

I just found out that there is a Metal Supermarket (http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/default.htm) down the road from me. Anyone ever do business with them? I requested a quote, I will let y'all know how their prices are.

I just found out that there is a Metal Supermarket (http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/default.htm) down the road from me. Anyone ever do business with them? I requested a quote, I will let y'all know how their prices are.

I've got one right down the street here. Probably not the cheapest, but the convenience makes up for it.

Probably not the cheapest, but the convenience makes up for it.

I guess my problem is that I am not really sure what a good price is...

I know plastic much better than I know Alum. :rolleyes:

The nice USPS man dropped of my Servos last night. They are gorgeous!

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Servos_1.jpg

I also went to Metal Supermarkets this morning. Not super cheap...but they had what I needed. I haggled the **** out of them, I think they were ready to kill me. :rolleyes:

Booty:
Qty 2: 1/4" x 25" x 10"
Qty 1: 3/8" x 12.5" x 8"
Qty 1: 3/8" x ? x ?
and a whole bunch of scrap.

Damage: $150 (Updated Tally on page 15)
Total of 44lbs - works out to $3.40/lb.

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Aluminum.jpg

I drew up some quick & rough designs for the frame.

End-plates are .25" 6061. Top parts of the frome are 80/20 1515. Bottom parts of the frame are 80/20 1530.

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Frame.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Frame_2.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Frame_3.jpg

So, look like a solid plan?

Just a small update. I received my CNC4PC boards - very nice. They were a good deal - can't wait to get everything else (Geckos and PSU) so I can spin my servos! Speaking of Gecko drives, I ordered them this morning with 3-day shipping. So, I should have them soon!

Other than that - it was a soggy/cold/nasty weekend. I got a lot of measurements done, and started fleshing out my Z-Axis.

Thats one solid looking frame :)

I'm pleased you had the soggy/cold/nasty weekend ! Surprisingly for the U.K we had a Dry/Warm/Refreshing weekend !

Will be interested in how your servo testing comes along, I'm an addict now and really would like to build a machine with servo based system next time.... Must ask Mr Garfield how PicServo is developing....

Cheers

Thats one solid looking frame :)

I'm pleased you had the soggy/cold/nasty weekend ! Surprisingly for the U.K we had a Dry/Warm/Refreshing weekend !

Will be interested in how your servo testing comes along, I'm an addict now and really would like to build a machine with servo based system next time.... Must ask Mr Garfield how PicServo is developing....

Cheers

Damn weather! Http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/Smilies/squint.gif At least someone had nice weather!

Glad you like the frame. I went through half a dozen different ideas, and this one seemed the easiest and the most solid. I saved a bit by going with the .25" Alum. for the end-plates. Hopefully with the 80/20 framing in there as well there won't be any flex. Just gotta make sure I build it nice and square!

Don't worry, I'm sure I will be my typical verbose self about the servos! Http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/Smilies/2thumbsup.gif

Ok, so quite a bit of fun working out my power supply (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10091). I've learned alot, and I think I have it pretty well nailed down. Got the transformers ordered from MPJA...should get them soon.

It is going to be torture have my Servos and Breakout board...and getting my Geckos thursday...but not being able to play with them until I get my transformers and build the PSU. :rolleyes:

My favorite UPS man dropped of my Gecko Drives last night!

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Gecko_Drives.jpg

Wonderful little gadgets, they are. :D

Hey Java, been a while. Hows the build going. Looks like your all set for action soon :)

Keep the updates coming. I'm following with interest !

Hi
I have a question, how you plan to do with the shaft ?
are you going to make it longer ?
I have got the same Cliftons and don't know what to do.

thirty78, if the shaft is too short add a coupler....otherwise a hub adapter...

Thanx ViperTX
I have a look on the Internet and find out what they look like.

Hi
I have a question, how you plan to do with the shaft ?
are you going to make it longer ?
I have got the same Cliftons and don't know what to do.

I don't think I will need to make them longer. At least, not the way I plan on mounting them...

Ok, so the frame is going to be made from 80/20 and Aluminum Plate (for the end-caps) as I previously went over.

Here is my collection of 80/20 for the frame:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/001.jpg

These are the fasteners that allow you to bolt things to the 80/20. They go into one of the channels on the sides:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/002.jpg

So, I need to cut the 80/20 to size.

Here is the weapon of choice:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/003.jpg

...and its teeth:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/004.jpg

On to the carnage!!

Setting up for the first cut:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/005.jpg

Cutting the 80/20:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/006.jpg

I was amazed, it ate through that aluminum like it was a soft-cheese.

Now, cutting the smaller 80/20:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/007.jpg

Again, like buttah!
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/008.jpg

That was easier than I could have hoped! Now, with the 80/20 all cut, it was time to start drilling the end-plates to bolt everything up.

Here I started to mark where I needed to drill. Since I have two end-plates, and I want them to be exactly the same, I will drill them both (clamped) at the same time.

Marking:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/009.jpg

You can see the clear lexan I used to make a drill-guide
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/010.jpg

Here is my drill press:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/011.jpg

Now, let me go off on the table a bit. I was driving my Fiance to work, when I saw what looked like a cool table sitting on the side of the road with a "FREE" sign on it.
Well, that is my kinda price! So, I stopped to look at it on the way back. Turns out this beast 6ft long and about 5" wider than I needed for my CNC machine. It is made out of HEAVY 1/2" MDF, with the plastic panel coating and swank red bumper-guards.
It was like someone built a table for my CNC machine and left it out for me.

It. Rocks. :D

Ok, on to the drilling...

Drilling the first hole:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/012.jpg

I am using some HSS drill bits. Cutting dry was a little rough, so I started spraying my bit with a little WD-40. Worked like a charm!

Another hole:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/013.jpg

Close up:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/014.jpg

First set of holes drilled:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/015.jpg

I was pretty happy, all the holes were spot on. Couldn't be better so far!
More to come soon!!

Drilling the first hole:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/012.jpg

I am using some HSS drill bits. Cutting dry was a little rough, so I started spraying my bit with a little WD-40. Worked like a charm!

Another hole:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/013.jpg

Close up:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/014.jpg

First set of holes drilled:
http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/015.jpg

I was pretty happy, all the holes were spot on. Couldn't be better so far!
More to come soon!!


you got spanked!
The page you requested cannot be displayed because the user is over their daily bandwidth utilization

I bet the bots are starting to scan these sites and that causes all sorts of issues with bandwidth usage. Out of bandwidth @ 7:30 AM EDT is a bad thing. ;)

you got spanked!

I bet the bots are starting to scan these sites and that causes all sorts of issues with bandwidth usage. Out of bandwidth @ 7:30 AM EDT is a bad thing. ;)

Actually, my Underwater ROV got Slashdotted - and my ISP freaked...
Plus, I had 100Mb of stuff on the "Free 10Mb Storage!" my ISP gives me.

They deleted everything. :violin:

If you'r posting images here, it's a good idea to upload them here to the site. That way the pictures will always stay with the thread. There are alot of older threads here with no pictures because the pictures are no longer where they were linked to. And we all know how useless some threads are without pics. :) Don't let this happen to you!

Don't let this happen to you!


Oops. I see it's too late. All the pics in this thread are gone. :(

Oops. I see it's too late. All the pics in this thread are gone. :(

Yeah, I will be fixing this soon. ;)

EDIT: Everything is fixed and back up. :banana:

Ok, so with the end-plates all drilled I could finally do a mock-up of the frame. Not all of the 80/20 was tapped, nor did I have enough bolts (estimate about 50 cap-head machine screws total = $$) to bolt everything up - so some parts are held together with some drill bits. :D

So, minus the rails and ballscrews, here is what the lower frame will look like:

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/017.jpg

http://users.adelphia.net/~javamoose/CNC/Build/016.jpg

For size reference, this is 26in from plate-to-plate. :cool:

More updates soon!

After following the thread for some time it's great to see you got back into gear ! ;)

Picture quality is excellent.

Good luck with the build.

Cheers

Yeah, you are going to see a lot more activity on this. I have been draggin' my butt for too long!

I want to get my machine finished and get to making up all the parts to match the ideas I have!!

JavaDog...for some reason I thought you had finished your router.

I'm working on the ballscrews for my unit, the router table is complete, the router x and y axis are almost complete...just lacking the finished ballscrews and the bearing blocks, I have a mental picture of the z-axis and will build it after I complete the x and y axis.

Grrr. I am a bit frustrated. I need to disassemble the rail/ballscrew assembly in order to make the mounting plates for the frame - but half the damn bolts won't come out! They are normal hex machine screws (cap head) but none of my allen wrenches will fit! I even went out and bought a 35pc set, with Metric and SAE - still no luck. Seems I am a half-size too small or too large, and a few of the bolt-heads stripped.

Even worse, there are some set-screws that hold the rails in place, and they are tiny, but again - nothing that fits. My smallest is too small, and the next size up is too big. Really starting to piss me off.

I'm thinking I may have to drill-out the set-screws? I'm going to try slotting the machine screws that stripped and use a flat-head screwdriver to try and get those out. What a PITA.

Just out of curiosity, does the lower frame look rigid enough - or will I need to do a little more reinforcing? I mean, it looks pretty solid to me, just wondering what you guys think. :cool:

JavaDog,
I work on consumer electronics and have this problem all the time with small hex head screws. It seems that the foreign hex QC or specs are flawed. :confused: Sometimes I have to force a Torx bit into the head to break it loose. It appears that your frame screws are not countersunk. If this is the case seems like a vise grip should do the trick.
It might be best to look at some US made fasteners. Good luck, hope you don’t have to drill them out. Nice looking frame. With the 80/20 you can always add some more bracing if you find you need to.

Ken

JavaDog,
I work on consumer electronics and have this problem all the time with small hex head screws. It seems that the foreign