I didn't like the way the CNCFusion Z bracketry covered the gibs, so I moved it over to the left side. This required drilling and tapping some holes in the headstock and column, a simple angle iron bracket, and a flat spacer plate. I did it all with a drill press and transfer punch.

Eventually I'll cut off the left side of the motor mount where it's out flying in the wind.

By doing this, won't you lose about an inch or so of Z travel? The recessed pocket in the original mounting dropped the level of the entire assembly down a bit... It looks like your mod mounts it flust to the top of the column...

-Farasien

The head comes all the way even with the top. I could have mounted the block higher to get some more travel, but I didn't think it was necessary.

X2cnc,

You really got me thinking about another solution to this very irritating (to me) design flaw of the kit. I had decided I would change the Z mounts just as you did then, as I got started, I thought of another method.

I just turned the upper motor mount around. I made a very simple mounting block in the shape of a "T" from some 1/2" mild steel I had. The bottom part of the T goes down into the column and is secured with three bolts in where the mount was originally mounted. Then I tapped threads in the upper part of the T and that's where the Z mount is now secured. ( as you can see in the pics)

I mounted the lower block just as you did. All this was extremely easy and works perfectly ! I've been running my X2 all day and it sure is nice to have such easy access to the gib screws now. I just wish I had done this right when I installed the kit.

Thanks for the inspiration,

Steve

Excellent! And much simpler than mine!

Mmmm, just stripped mine down last night to tighten the gibs. Might be time to do this also. I think CNC Fusion should consider offering a reversed kit even if it means drilling holes in the head.

I think CNC Fusion should consider offering a reversed kit even if it means drilling holes in the head.

I certainly agree, they could easily do that (I think). This makes the whole setup so much better and as far as I know this is the only complaint regarding this X2 kit and so they may sell more kits. All just my opinion.

One thing I realized today while milling some steel was the gear shift lever hits the ball nut block when shifting to low. I used a allen wrench until I do something about it.

No big deal, just wanted to let you know about that. I highly recommend changing it to the left side anyway.

After a bit of deliberation, I decided to go with this mod on my Fusion Z axis as well... I don't like the idea of disassembly just to tighten my Z gibs. How wide of a spacer did you end up using between the mounting block and the angle iron you mounted to the column? By the pics, I'd say it was about 0.250...

-Farasien

Yes, just a piece of 1/4" flat.

Guys, here is a handy discovery I made yesterday for those who don't want to flip their Z kit but want to make removal easier for gib tightening.

The large M12 screw in the CNC-Fusion kit is probably the most annoying/difficult part to remove during the gib adjustment process as it is on the inside of the head. You have slide the head half way off the dovetail to get access to it. I noticed that the screw for the Z scale "needle" indicator (on the L/H side of the head) is exactly in line with the hole used by the M12 screw on the R/H side. As my mill is now CNC I don't need this indicator so I removed it, got a 12mm drill bit, and drilled out the existing hole (the casting is only about 5mm thick in this area). This allowed me to put a 120mm long M12 screw all the way through the head (inserted from the left hand side) giving me quick and easy access for future remove the Z ball screw assembly. Now at least all the screws are accessable from the outside of the mill (3 on the column bracket, 2 on the head block, and the M12 in its new position).

Guys, here is a handy discovery I made yesterday for those who don't want to flip their Z kit but want to make removal easier for gib tightening.

The large M12 screw in the CNC-Fusion kit is probably the most annoying/difficult part to remove during the gib adjustment process as it is on the inside of the head. You have slide the head half way off the dovetail to get access to it. I noticed that the screw for the Z scale "needle" indicator (on the L/H side of the head) is exactly in line with the hole used by the M12 screw on the R/H side. As my mill is now CNC I don't need this indicator so I removed it, got a 12mm drill bit, and drilled out the existing hole (the casting is only about 5mm thick in this area). This allowed me to put a 120mm long M12 screw all the way through the head (inserted from the left hand side) giving me quick and easy access for future remove the Z ball screw assembly. Now at least all the screws are accessable from the outside of the mill (3 on the column bracket, 2 on the head block, and the M12 in its new position).

Is this still working well for you??? I have to adjust my Gib on my Z-axis and am dreading the process...

Mark [mkenney]

Why not just drill and tap 4 holes on the other side, and move the Gibb to that side? (Flipped 180 degrees)

CR.

Hey CR,

I think I had considered that and if I recall, that would move the head too far to the left due to the way the dove tails are cast on the head.

The way I and X2cnc moved the ballscrew to the left was extremely easy. Before that I had done the hole drilled in the left side to access the large bolt on the CNCFusion kit but this was still a big hassle.

Hey CR,

I think I had considered that and if I recall, that would move the head too far to the left due to the way the dove tails are cast on the head.

The way I and X2cnc moved the ballscrew to the left was extremely easy. Before that I had done the hole drilled in the left side to access the large bolt on the CNCFusion kit but this was still a big hassle.

Thinking about going this direction. I noticed that you don't have the torsion spring on anymore. Is there any plus or minus to this??

Mark [mkenney]

Hi Mark,

Well if you have the ballnut block mounted on the left side I don't think there's room for it. I personally do recommend having some sort of counter spring or weight.

I plan to add a couple of gas spring cylinders to mine but haven't found the perfect ones locally yet. I'll probably order a couple from LMS soon.

Steve