Hi,
I have a 22 16 Fadal, if I push/pull on the table and I get .007 movement. I get this on the end of the ballscrew too.
Is there anywhere I can find directions on how to replace the thrust bearing and where is a good place to get the thrust bearing?
Also, I read a thing or 2 about the aluminum block, what do I need to know or do about it?
Thanks for your help.

Year is the machine (the serial number will help also)and the model number off of the tag.

What about the Z axis thrust bearing. Can't seem to find a whole lot about that one. I get no movement from X/Y, but can lift the head stock a bit, have not measured it yet.
'95 VMC 15.
Smitty

When I was on the phone to service, they said all axis were the same. I bought an extra set of bearings and seals to be safe.

We've changed x and y thrust bearings on one of our 4020's, each-on different days- took 1.5 Hours with the service tech. So $100 for the bearing kit and $150 for labor. Of course do new backlash test on all axis.
Bought 3 more bearing sets for another 4020-z also, weekend job!!

I have a bit of growling on rapid X and Y axis movement. It was suggested that this may be the thrust bearing. Where are they exactly and how do I replace them? Can some one send the schematic diagram detailing the locations? Thanks.

On the x-axis, take the right hand side way cover off and the thrust bearing mount(black, square alumium piece) can be seen between the servo motor and the machine y saddle frame. The servo must be taken off and set to the side, take the coupling off, and then use an air gun to unbolt the nut from end of ball screw, unbolt the bearing mount from the frame and take bearing mount to your tool bench and change bearings and seals. Read instructions backwards to install!

If you dont know where the bearing mounts are, tis is a good clue a service tech would be well worth the money(took us 1.5 Hours at $85/hour) to replace a thrust bearing with the service tech, and that includes the backlash testing after bearing replace which you must do.
If your machine has "cool power" in other words coolant flowing through your ball screws, this can be overridden at this point when changing the bearings to avoid the coolant mixing in with the bearing grease causing your next bearing change. Unless you really load the ballscrews when cutting with super heavy cuts that is.
The good things about fadals, they are man-made...and thus man-fixable!!

No cool power. Looking at the online schematic doesn't show the bearings, so, I like to have a good idea on what's going on before I dive in. Thanks for the reply with the skinny. (Service must be well over $100. per hour plus travel time. I can handle this.)

Whats a skinny? No cool power makes the job a tad bit easier, less seals to deal with when pressing out/installing new bearings and seals. The bearings are not shown in the drawings, they are inside the bearing mount, bolted in with a cap held tight with 4 bolts in the middle of the bearing mount.

skinny = the scoop, the goods , the inside story.

I have a bit of growling on rapid X and Y axis movement. It was suggested that this may be the thrust bearing. Where are they exactly and how do I replace them? Can some one send the schematic diagram detailing the locations? Thanks.

We have a 1995 15XT and also had a growling problem, ours turned out to be the support bearing on the left side of the table. The service guy removed the bearing and the noise went away, replaced bearing with a new one and all is well again.
you might want to check there first it is a very easy fix.

I'm re-building a 1996 VMC15XT and was just looking at the left bearing on mine this weekend while doing something else and thought that it sure was exposed to coolant ect. Just pop the left way cover off and there it is.
Steve

I just looked in the parts manual and there is suppose to be a small cover plate over the bearing!:tired: I guess I'll have to make one.:mad:

Steve.

I replaced the thrust bearings and the worst of the noise went away. The ballscrew was still growling and when rotated it by hand I could feel some slight roughness in X minus territory which corresponds to the noise. I took the ballscrew out and shipped it today for evaluation and repair or replacement. The Y-axis screw is probably due for the same treatment in the future.