OK folks I will start to document the build of my 5 x 10 plasma table build. There have been a lot of inspirational builds made and I would like to thank each of you for your contributions . Jcar's build was especially an inspiration to me. I have been asking questions for quite awhile now and getting ideas from a lot of places. I have unabashedly stolen ideas from other threads on this site and others. I have used manual plasmas for years and fully understand just how nasty these things can be. So the choice was either a water table or a vent system to get rid of the black nasty stuff. I chose a water table because of the simplicity of and quietness of operation, versus a blower to the outside of the building. A blower in the winter also would have exausted any/all warm air in the shop outside also. Another benefit of a water table is using the water to help control warpage from heat.
The decision of size – likely most, if not all, of my cutting will be 4 x 8 sheet material. BUT knowing Murphys Law prevails on most everything I do I decided I might as well make it large enough to drown that damn Murphy in it! I decided to use “V” tracks and wheels for my system. One reason was their cost was lower than any super accurate linear rail system I had investigated. Let’s face it – plasma is not the most accurate cutting system there is and this system will in all likelihood be more accurate that the plasma machine anyway.
I believe building the table was for me going to be the easy part of this project since I have a lot of steel fabrication experience in years past. I decided to make the table just a little over 5 x 10 so the inside measures 62 x 122. That gives me a couple of inches to play with on sheet size. I also thought a low table might be better since I don’t have a lot of head room in my shop w/ just 10 ft. eaves (if any of you build a shop be SURE to consider head room and then add another 2 ft. or more to that!). So currently my table is 21” from the floor to the top of the table itself. I figure I can always add legs to pick it up further if and when I need to but will start out like it is.
I found the concept for the water table on I believe a Thermal Dynamics web site and liked the ideas so I followed their concept for my table. I will try to keep this thread updated as I progress further folks. I’m not afraid to ask questions about things so if I can help you in return ask away.
Pics are of my progress so far.

I will add some more pics in a couple of replys to the thread guys once I figure out how. For some reason I'm not getting them up.

OH BOY!!!! A new project. Figure those pictures out and let us watch over your shoulder every step of the way. Where's Tenino? I'm in SW WA and would love to come give you a hand, probably not close enough.
DRL

DRL I am in Tenino, just N of Centralia or SE of Olympia. I'm still trying to figure out how to get some more pics up but not having any luck. I'll try resizing one and see if that works.
Well I don't know what I did but it worked! Thats all for now folks.

Very, Very nice! Got a couple of questions...
What Voltage and Current do you use for the plasma head?
What does the water do exactly? Instantly cool the cut? What about the 'slag'?
Top Left pic:Wife likes the PINK chair.... How much? (or where can I get one like it for her).

hey notasupertechster - not good for your reputation to post in the first thread you read in a forum.

Bill, Nice work, nice shop. I think an overhead should have been the first thing i put in. Whats the yellow press do?

The yellow press is one I made for hot forging work. It has a 4" bore cylinder on one side and a 6" on the other. I can squish hot iron really well using it. Most of the work done on it is in making damascus steel for custom knives. The overhead has a beam running down the length of the shop and then I have other beams that shoot off to the sides also. I will have to add one more beam over my table (of course the one place I have left to put the table was the one place I did not put a beam up when I built the shop. That damn Murphy strikes again!). I can handle 2000# overhead w/ my chain fall but the little Horrible Freight elec hoist is just good for about 1000# w/ a two part line hookup. The big green machine is a 110# air hammer for forging work.

Supertechster I found that chair at a thrift store for $5 and it has served me well. My knees are shot so I do most of my work sitting down when I can. Currently I have a 30 amp. Esab plasma that I use manually. I will be purchasing a Hypertherm 1250 for use w/ the table. It will run off 220V, single phase. The water table is primarily to catch the extremely fine dross the plasma system blows out of the kerf when cutting. Without a method of catching that fine dross your shop (and lungs) will be black in a very short time. The water also will splash onto the bottom of the plate being cut and cool it therefore helping to eliminate distortion. I also plan to use and oxy/acet torch w/ the table for burning heavy plate. But the torch will be a future addition as I want to get the table up and going first.

The table is 95% complete and I still have a gantry/drive system to build. Once I have a gantry that will move freely up and down the table, and I am happy with, I will then order in the electronics package for it all from Tom Caudle at CandCNC.

The channels and angles were laid out and drilled before assy. started. The rack gears will set under the angle and flush w/ the outside edge of it. IE: the angle protrudes 1/2" past the side of the channel and the rack is 1/2" wide.
To test the lay out I laid the angles on the channels and droped 4-5 bolts in each one. I straighted one angle to a tight wire stretched from end to end. I put a piece of 1/8" welding rod under the wire on both ends. Then I used another piece of weld wire as a feeler gauge to straighten the angle and bolt it down.
I then clamped a short piece of fl. bar to the outside of each angle and cut another pc. of bar to length (71 3/8" lg.) and used this as a gauge to set the remaining angle to width for bolting.
Now that I know the holes will line up and work for this I can take the angles back off and wait till my "V" wheels and track get here. Then I can drill the track and the top leg of the angle to bolt the tracks on. I will drill all the parts, check hole's w/ a temporary bolting up, dis-assemble and paint the angles before final bolt down. Thats all for now folks - time to wait for parts to get here hopefully this week.

OK folks I will start to document the build of my 5 x 10 plasma table build.

Great looking start to your table.:)

Good descriptions & pictures of your build methods are sure to help to inspire others.
Thanks for sharing.

Nice job Bill, I'll continue to follow your progress.

I built my table to handle Plasma & ox/fuel , leaving both systems mounted at all times. I've been thinking a good bit lately about finishing the plasma "Z" axis & purchasing a plasma rig for it. Just a case of to many irons in the fire right now.

I have been working on the gantry the last couple of days. and it is progressing well I think. Will get some pics of it posted up in the next couple of days.
My bearings and "V" rails got here. I was putting the angles that the rails ride on down again today to check a dimension and spent all afternoon chasing 1/8" out of parallel somewhere. I thought I had checked this before but will likely have to slot a few holes. The rails need to be within 1/16" of parallel to each other if the bearings are going to run right. I'll figure it out tomorrow - my frustration level was getting too high today so I just shut the shop up and came in.

Bill,

All I can say is WOW!!!! That's a sweet looking machine you've got going there. I'm looking forward to watching your progress.

I am not the fastest person in the world folks but have made a little progress and want to update the thread. I got the side rails on and straight then happened to think "how am I going to take these off, paint them, and put them back on again in the exact same place?" So I welded some tabs onto the channels butted against the angles. After drilling for the "V" rails and painting they went back down without any problems. I then drilled the "V" rails themselves and bolted them on.
The gantry side plates are made from 1/4" steel plate and some angle iron to make pockets for the cross pieces to sit into. I don't have the hardware to bolt it all up so took some pics after clamping and testing for width and rolling back and forth. The Mechmate web site gave me the idea of attaching the gear racks using 3M VHB (very high bond) tape to hold them in place. Time will tell but everything I hear about the tape is that it is very capable of holding these rack gears in place. Not a lot of room in the area for mechanical fasteners so if they ever fall off I'll break out the welder on them!

ahhh, I dunno abut the sticky tape lol.

Will be interesting to see how it goes.

They glue in windshields, I have to believe that will hold them well.

It will be interesting to see how it does hold up. I guess try it, see how it goes and if it falls off just bolt it on.

I assume that this is some kind of NASA tape?

I don't know if it is NASA or not but they use it too hold truck trailers and parts of cars together with. I ran a sample wherein I took a piece of 1/2" square stock and put it on a pc. of angle iron. After a couple of days I tried to get it off and had to get a pry bar to do. Will let you know how it holds up when I get the table in service.

Nice table........Just curious if anybody here has ever thought of building a plasma cut set up based on a circular pivot idea rather than a gantry?......Guess the kink in the road would be converting staight line steps.........

Nice looking table Bill, I'm only about 30 min. away from you if you need some help on setting up the CandCNC stuff let me know, I'm no genius but sometimes a sounding board helps! :)
Good Luck, Steve

Nice table........Just curious if anybody here has ever thought of building a plasma cut set up based on a circular pivot idea rather than a gantry?......Guess the kink in the road would be converting staight line steps.........

No kinks if you use EMC2... they have the kinematics to handle that.

John

It looks like your table is coming along nicely.

Nice build Bill,

Keep the pics coming.

Mike

Things are progressing slowly lately. I had to redesign the slat hanger arrangement I had planned. Went to welded on pieces to a flat bar & trap the slat between the welded on pieces. Cut all the slats to length. Painted the interior of the table using a mix of yellow and white smooth Hammerite paint. This morning I ran into town and got some concrete deck piers. Moved the table into its final location, jacked it up and set it on the piers. I could purchase piers cheaper than the steel to make legs for it. Bought some erail on fleabay yesterday and it should be here late next week and will get it mounted then.
Next week I want to order a Hypertherm 1250 and machine torch. Then it will be time to order the electronics. I think I will go w/ steppers rather than servos.

Have you considered the Hypertherm 1650? We've had our table running for a few years now. It works great, the only thing I'd change is the plasma size. We're running a 1000 hypertherm now, there has been countless times we could use more power. Considering an upgrade, but other than being limited on thickness i have no complaints. As the old saying goes: If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Mike

Bill

Nothing plain about you.... excellent work !!

Med-Pac I'd luv to have the 1650 but don't have the necessary 3 phase to run it. I run my mill and surface grinder off a 5 HP rotary converter but that would not run a plasma. Oh well - I don't really plan on cutting anything thicker than 1/2" anyway and if I do I will put an oxy/acet torch on.

Have you considered the Hypertherm 1650? We've had our table running for a few years now. It works great, the only thing I'd change is the plasma size. We're running a 1000 hypertherm now, there has been countless times we could use more power. Considering an upgrade, but other than being limited on thickness i have no complaints. As the old saying goes: If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Mike

If I'm not mistaken the Ht 1650 requires 3 phase power. Not a problem if you have it, but if you have to convert it with a RPC you are looking at around a 40-50 HP RPC.

I am looking at installing plasma to the back side of my Ox/acet set up & leave it mounted.

I wanted the Ht 1650 but looks like I may go with the Thermal Dynamics True 152 it will run on either single or 3 phase power with no degrade. Or at least that's what their propaganda states.

When we initially got our 1000 hypertherm it was also a one-phase......we rewired it for 3 phase. Seems to make a big difference in pierce capabilities. Here's some pics of some .50 we've done. The first 2 are A-36, the 3rd is stainless.

Mike

I can believe it would do better on 3 phase. I have had similar results trying to use an inverter welding power source on single phase. Rewired to a large RPC for 3 phase & it also improved it's performance. Mainly on reduction of spatter.

Having to use RPCs for 3 phase, I have reverted back to older Iron (Linde/L-Tec) Transformer type 400-450A welding machines. For some reason they seem to work best on converted power.

I have been working on the slat arrangement after moving the table into it's final position. Had to rework a couple of things on it before I got the slats in like I wanted them. Will post some more pics with the slats in place.
I ran the numbers on cubic inches of the water tank and it looks like it will hold 360 gallons with the water level where I want it. So with table weight plus water this is going to be enough weight I don't think inertia on the table itself will be a concern. I need to fill the table before long to double check water tightness but that is not a big concern.
I do need to start on the "y" and "Z" axis. I received the bushings for the remaining "V" wheels yesterday. Ordered a T80M machine torch and Hypertherm 1250 today. So the bank account took a hit and will again when I order the electronics in the next couple of weeks. Talked w/ Tom Caudle at CandCNC today and asked him some silly questions about the electronics. More as we progress folks.

My shop has beams that run overead. The one portion of the shop that did not have a beam was of course where the plasma table is sitting. So today I worked on hanging an overhead beam over the table. Got the beam cut, attachments made to hang it from and rigging hung w/ a chain fall so I can lift it into place and secure it. Was here by myself and will have a neighbor come over in the morning and watch in case of accident. I do not like rigging anything without someone else around even if I feel very confident of what I am doing. Should not take very long in the AM to get it up and in place. That will allow me to pick up a sheet/plate from the center of the shop and bring it to the table and lay it down without breaking my back. I have made some sheet clamps that I use to pick material up lying flat. The truss holding the beam is engineered for 2000# center span and the beam will handle that also.

Bill that is a great looking build, nice workmanship.

Wish I could be doing most anything but what I am at the moment. I came to the shop this morning to find my 15 gal hot water heater had sprung a leak. I knew I was on borrowed time with it. The part of my building it's in was built in 1967. The ser # on the old tank indicated it to be around a 1971 vintage.

Long story short they used to be small dia. & tall, now they are short & fat. Tried to re-use a couple of sweat fit copper unions. Just can't get one of them to seal in the tapered seat at all.

Good luck on mounting your beam tomorrow Bill.

Been pretty busy on some other things lately so haven't gotten a lot done on the table. I ran into town yesterday and picked up some discharge hose to hook onto the table drain nozzle. I wanted to be able to dump water to outside quick if I had any leaks when I filled it. So got that hooked up, put the hose in the table and turned it on! After a little while I noticed the water was where I figured it should be. I thought to myself "Boy I must have really good pressure since it filled up so quick". I hooked up air to the table and turned it on! Water quickly started to rise and then BLUB-BLUB-BLUB I had air blowing out the water inlet ports.
So I shut it down, tried again - same thing! Now what the *^%$$ is going on here?? I walked around the table a couple of times thinking and looking. It finally dawned on me that when I was filling the table I had not opened the air outlet valve and it was getting air locked:withstupi. I opened the valve and the water level dropped way down. So I put the hose back in and kept filling for two hours (350 gal. tank). Now when it was filling the air outlet had air coming out the valve. Once the water level was where I wanted it I shut off the hose and outlet valve and turned air into the tank --- SHAZAM!!! The water level came up quick to the bottom of the slats so I shut the air off 90%. With air still coming in the water level rose to the top of the slats. ALL RIGHT! Its nice when a plan comes together. And NO LEAKS -WAHOO:banana:.
I got some progress made on the Y car and the Z axis. Will get some pics up later this week.

Bill

Worked on Y & Z axis's the last couple of days. Folks I need some feedback on my design and work to date. NOW is the time to make any changes that I need to. I have never done anything like this so really look things over for me and make suggestions if something doesn't look right - please. All the travels run smoothly by hand at this point. Ordered a slug of alum. flat bar today to make drives from. Already got the pinion gears and timing pulleys and belts to gear down 4 to 1 on the steppers when I get them. Ordered a boring bar for the mill so I can bore holes to press bearings into for the drives (now I just have to figure out how to do it!)
Talked w/ Tom at CandCNC yesterday and my electronics will ship early next week. Sure is fun to play with the water up and down:)

Hi Bill, only a quote about your Y troley, It is only on the top of the rails or it has any bearing holding from down to prevenmt it to jum uot fo the rails? Do I to negative...?? My question is : if the torch crash with the plate or goes far down it can get the Y off the rails.. !!?
Good looking machine ! ! I tried the quench but got some rust, then i change it for the "milk " , the cooling oil solution for tool machining, Brumol? ( dont know the name!!)
Luis

Thanks for the comments Lamnicron - the Y car will be held down on the off torch side w/ the motor running on the rack gear. The front (torch) side of the car will have a cam follower mounted under the car and running on a bar bolted to the inside of the front alum. extrusion piece. That should hold the Y car down firmly to the tracks I think ----------.
I will put a piece of crs shaft into the sump area of the table and keep and eye out for rust on it. If it starts to rust I'll have to do something to stop it. Will be glad to get the electrics and get started on that.

Still waiting on the electronics to get here:confused:Will update again when they finallyget here

Hey Bill

Very Nice!! Great progress, keep them pics coming. The hardest part is always the wait.

Mike

Sometimes waiting is the hardest part......

I have electronics from CandCNC. If there is a hold up for some reason it will be well worth the wait. I have been running since Jan. this year. Once going I was running about 2 1/2 - 3 days per week. This week I have ran the table every day & most days this week 10 hrs or more. Haven't had a problem at all.

Had 1 3/4" on the table yesterday. Had some problems piercing in the beginning but had most of it worked out by the end of the job. Takes lots of preheat to pierce cleanly

Still waiting on the electronics to get here:confused:Will update again when they finallyget here

Get your electronics kit??? Any more progress?

I'm thinking about building an entirely new table. This would be build 2 for me. My current table has worked great. I just didn't build it long enough. I could easily get by with a 2' expansion of the length on my current table. If I do decide to build #2 I will make a few minor changes in design.

Anyway keep up the good work. What you have so far looks pretty killer in my book.

Neil

Still no electronics yet guys. I know CandCNC got covered up with orders lately and they have been working overtime to get them out. Then to top it off a couple of their suppliers sent them the wrong goods and then some other things got damaged in shipment. I'm patient:violin: - still got a couple of good books to read. I am trying to schedule a knee replacement surgery and I would sure like to get it up and running before then.
I did install an overhead boom and ran the machine torch leads on it. Hypertherm says their leads and torches are well insulated for electrical noise but then why take the chance? Will keep you posted as I progress

Being in business fo myself I have a good understanding of supply chain hold ups. I sometimes even get held up on products as basic as Cold Rolled Steel rounds.

I even do the best I can to keep at least a 2 week supply of the materials I regularly use on hand. All it takes is an unexpected order for those materials, & even the slightest glitch with a steel supplier & there you are empty handed.

Just got notification of my electronics package shipping from CandCNC. Should have it all late next week and then the fun begins!:banana:

Bill - have read your posts and I am very excited for you. I have built a 5 by 10 table with out water (partnered with another fellow on that one) and two router tables with a mill/drill conversion and 5 by 10 router in progress. I have used CandCNC package on the plasma table with good success. Running steady now for 6 months. We still need to build another plasma table (this one is mine / part of the deal). This next one i want to be a water table (seams to make sense). So I am very interested in your progress. I have no experiance with the concept of plasma in water and dont know what the deal is with the air inlet and outlet. Do you know of any sites where I can learn about working with plasma in water table and can you tell me how your getting the water level adjusting up and down.

Thanks much

Ron

Bill - have read your posts and I am very excited for you. I have built a 5 by 10 table with out water (partnered with another fellow on that one) and two router tables with a mill/drill conversion and 5 by 10 router in progress. I have used CandCNC package on the plasma table with good success. Running steady now for 6 months. We still need to build another plasma table (this one is mine / part of the deal). This next one i want to be a water table (seams to make sense). So I am very interested in your progress. I have no experiance with the concept of plasma in water and dont know what the deal is with the air inlet and outlet. Do you know of any sites where I can learn about working with plasma in water table and can you tell me how your getting the water level adjusting up and down.

Thanks much

Ron

With entry level plasma machines the plasma head does'nt really run in the water itself. The torches aren't designed for under water operation & would short out. Water level is brought up to or near the bottom side of the plate being cut. The water then acts ad a dust/smoke trap as well as coolant to help eliminate warpage of the plate.

The water is held in a storage tank equaling, but preferrably a bit larger than the volume needed to fill your water tray. Valves are needed to (1) regulate air going into your holding tank to force water to your tray. (2) to hold water in tray after fill. (3) To vent pressure from holding tank back to atmosphere to allow tray to drain back to tank.

To fill tray: Valves 1 & 2 would be open, 3 would be closed.

Once tray full: Close valve 2 & 1, open valve 3 to vent air pressure from holding tank.

To drain tray: Open valve 2. water will drain back to holding tank.

This is about as simple of a version of water table as you can get. Float level switches, solenoid valves etc could be incorporated if something automatic is desired.

Ron since you already use a plasma you understand just how nasty these things can be. Controlling all that black crap is what the water is all about plus helping to control distortion from heat. The principle is simple really. I use full line air pressure on my table to raise the water and just control it by not opening the valve all the way. I crack the valve and the water level rises into the working part of the table. When the level gets to where I want it I just shut the valve off. The water stays at this level until you open a valve to let the air out and then the water goes back to the bottom of the tank.


I know there are some folks that do sumerge the work under water. The torch suppliers do NOT reccomend this - but some folks do it and get away with it. If I were cutting thin stainless I would likely try it myself.

I have a .pdf file that is too large to load here from Thermal Dynamics about water tables I could send you if you want. Drop me a private message w/ your email addy if you want it.

Bill - Thanks so much Bill I will send you a my email. Ron

I am not the fastest person in the world but I'm great at slow and steady! thought I would update the thread. I did get my electronices package in from Tom at CandCNC and started installation of them. I have all four motors wired back to the controller now and ready to check them out. I still have to build a mount for the Z axis and will get the couplers for it next week. It should be a simple direct hook up and the linear slide has a 5-1 reduction already. Should be ready for first fire up before long now. Anxious to get it fired and going before I get a knee replaced as that will put me out of commision for a spell.

Bill,

You table is looking very sharp.

Take care of the knee too!

Tom

http://www.atlweldingsupply.com/Acetylene-Cutting-Tips-for-Adaptors_c_485.html

Bill, Here is the link to the tips. The adapters & tip nuts are also listed on the site somewhere.

I use the M6-0 size tip for everything from 1/4" through 1". I have tried using them sized by American Torch Tip's chart for these tips. I could only gain about 2 IPM by using what they say for 1" & the cut across the face isn't quite as nice & use loads more gas(s)

Once you get going contact me again & I'll try to give you a few regulator settings & feeds that I have found that works well for me.

I think their quality control likes just a bit being perfect. For example; I recently purchased 10 of these tips. From the 10 at least (1) wasn't worth a crap (very poor cut quality) (7) was at least as good as other name brand (Oxweld), in my case tips & the remaining (2) cut so nice I can't compair them to anything else I have ever used.

For some reason almost all seem to get better after a few cleanings. Can't figure that one out at all. For the price though you can throw 2 of 3 away & still be at about the same price as the big name brand(s)

I have a couple each of the sizes I would use ordered in their divergent bore High Speed tips. (supposed to increase IPM speeds by about 25-30%) but require high pressure Ox on the cut orfice. About 100# as best I remember.

I'll report back after I have had a chance to try them out.

Neil

I've had an interest in cnc plasma cutters for some time and in the near future I would like to buy or build one with waterbed. What I haven't figured out is why the level of the water would need to be varied (including emptying and refilling) to the point where valving is required. Can't you just fill it up with the hose to the level you want and for emptying, dump it down the drain via a ball valve? Obviously there is a reason for needing constant level changes but I just don't know what it is.....
Thanks for your help.
Phil

Phil of course you can fill a pan type water table with a hose and never vary the depth (or vary it by just filling and dumping to the point needed). Doing it that way you can dump right into a sewer connection or onto the ground without any problem when needed. You might have to dig around in rusty water that way to find your parts that drop in and evaporation is fairly quick with a large surface area of water exposed. Nothing wrong with this method and many, many people do it this way.
With an air operated water table you can add rust preventive chemicals that will protect the table and the work. It is easy to raise or lower water level to any desired height. High water level for thin material that will help keep the work cool and aid in keeping distortion to a minimum. Lower for heavier material that doesn't distort so much. Lower levels still capture black crap but don't splash as bad when cutting. Another benefit of this type is that when not in use you can drop the water level into the sump area cutting down on exposed water to lessen evaporation. Myself, I don't want too much evaporation in the shop because of other tooling that might start to rust.

Why did I do it this way?? Just cause I thought it would be so cool! I admit to loving to build things and wanted to try making my own plasma table. I am not fast anymore but manage to do something to the table almost daily. It is getting very, very close to going into operation now. Still waiting for the couplers for the Z axis and another computer to run it when the old one I had puked out on me.

Why did I do it this way?? Just cause I thought it would be so cool! I admit to loving to build things and wanted to try making my own plasma table. I am not fast anymore but manage to do something to the table almost daily. It is getting very, very close to going into operation now. Still waiting for the couplers for the Z axis and another computer to run it when the old one I had puked out on me.

I picked up my computer off Ebay It was listed as "refurbished". Realistically I think it had just had the 80 G hard drive erased & reformatted with XP Pro, 512 RAM, Pentium 4 2.X Ghz, Gateway. $149.00 When I opened the case to install the second parallel port & upgrade the RAM to 1 Ghz., it was dusty inside. Not bad but if it had actually been worked on, one would think the tech would have blew that out. Anyway it has worked great. It just doesn't take a computer with loads of bells & whistles to run one of these tables. In fact The less software that's on one the better off you are.

Bill, thanks for the explanation.
Phil

Hi Bill, I have been watching and waiting for lift off!
Are you close or is the knee slowed progress too much.

Let me know if there is anything I can do.

Steve

Finished up the table mechanically today with the last motor mount. All the electronics are mounted, wiring run. Just don't have the electronics checked out yet and will not be able to do that until after knee surgery recovery. Added a pic of the table in current condition.

Looking good Bill. Hope you have a speedy recovery.

John

ditto Bill get well soon

Just don't have the electronics checked out yet and will not be able to do that until after knee surgery recovery. Added a pic of the table in current condition. Mr. Bill, I've watched your build from day 1 of post 1 and would have no qualms of following your lead and building my own identical to yours, if I needed one. lol I know that I could make projects to keep the dust off it, but, a daily burner, not.

I will say that I have one CNC router setup on a 4'x4' working area that I use for stringed instruments and other router/mill projects that I put together several years ago(with zero prior CNC knowledge) and am in process of putting together parts for a second.

Good luck with the surgery, follow the good Doctors directions to the 't'. It made the difference in my personal 'knee' recoveries. I had to believe them when they said, crutches only etc etc.

Here's hoping for a speedy recovery and a Happy Holiday's. I'll be watching for future post updates.

LW

Awesome build you have going on there.

I love your solid base (Probbaly heavy as heck) but I wanted to ask if you followed any plans?

I just dont get how everything goes together accurately in the first lot of steps, did you get a steel mob to bend/cut it all for you? Whats holding all the supports (is it just the 2 beams up top?) Whats the specs on the U channel that you use? What is the thickness of steel sheet you use?

Sorry to sound like stealing your design but it is the most solid I have seen so far and I am looking to build a smaller plama cutter soon myself so im going around looking what everyone else has made.

Hi folks - I have not updated in quite awhile and apologize. This knee replacement surgery has gone pretty well actually. I have been slow in returning to the shop because the knee seems to ache a lot more than usual if I sit in a cold shop for long. But local temps seem to be edging up a bit so maybe I can get back out there and finish up in the next week.
The table is complete w/ the electronics all installed now. I am just trying to get some bugs worked out of the software (and the bugs are me rather than the software). I have movement on all three axis's using the jog buttons but still have to get the plasma to actually fire off.

blue-ray I did not have any plans for the table. I studied different builds on this forum and gleaned ideas from them. Further I haunted the websites of commercial builders and gleaned ideas from them also. I did get a local fab shop to bend the 10 ga. plate plate for the pan. That saved a lot of work. The rest of itis mainly 4" structural channel iron for the frame. All the channel iron is welded to the pan and each other for stiffness. The frame pieces were assembled in a jig so each piece is identical, then installed over the pan and finally the top runners were welded to the frames. Plasma is not the worlds most accurate cutting system but the structural channel should allow me to stay well within the plasma parameters. "V" wheels and rails are also within plasma cutting parameters. I had more of a problem designing the gear drives for the X & Y axis's and installing them than anything else. If I had it to do over I would allow another 1/8" between the drives and the rack gears. Mine are really close, they work but something I will have to keep an eye on to insure I do not have problems down the road.
Look thru all the different builds on here and the manufacturers and pick out the ideas you like best and build your table to suit you.

snip

Yea I was thinking of a design like yours but I prefer to work with RHS.

Ie. Frame on the outside with sheet on the inside. I love your R&P with V's on top design.


sorry but what is 20 ga. in inches or mm. I am in australia and they never use the guage measurement.

Mr. Bill, so glad to hear your back up and around.

Cold weather, weather changes will play havoc on the bods we motor in for sure.

As I mentioned before, once you get your bugs to play nice, it would be super to have an MPG of sorts to watch this creation in action.

Great work.

blue ray
sorry but what is 20 ga. in inches or mm. I am in australia and they never use the guage measurement.

The internet is your friend.

Please take this in the spirit of it's being offered. If your looking at designs of anything from most everwhere found on the internet, look on-line for a conversion program, free ware, that will offer you conversions of all measurements in/of all variety. You have to start somewhere.:)

LW

The internet is your friend.

Please take this in the spirit of it's being offered. If your looking at designs of anything from most everwhere found on the internet, look on-line for a conversion program, free ware, that will offer you conversions of all measurements in/of all variety. You have to start somewhere.:)

LW

:D sorry about my laziness.

Found one on a jewlers site

http://66.38.218.33/jewelry/gauge-inch-mm.html


Best Regards,
Chris

Glad to see you back Bill. Hope your recovery continues to go well.

I'd like to build a larger table than the one I have now. My time is needed elsewhere at present though. For whatever reason in this nosediving economy I have more work in the shop now than ever before.

Blue Ray I didn't look at the link you posted but my wall chart has 20GA listed as .0359" thick

Bill - Glad to hear that despite your recovery you are still making progress. Don't over do it though. I have finished my mill drill and I am now following through with my router. Looking forward to hearing about your first cuts. - Ron

It seems that when the project is in its darkest phase with nothing but troubles a ray of hope comes along. I had a visit from a fellow forumite today (tinman13) and he was a welcome relief! It seems the problems I have been having and solving very slowly were really not that major after all. With his help and advice we actually had the table false cutting a part today. I discovered a fault in my design wherein we broke the linear slide I used on the Z axis when we referenced it to "home" without material under it to stop it. The plastic ball screw nut inside broke up. I will have to fit another limit to keep this from happening again. Oh well - I will call and try to get parts for it or send it to them tomorrow. I feel 100% better about it all after a visit from someone that is actually using his equipment.

Keep the faith Bill. I had a few issues in the beginning. & was becoming discouraged. It all worked out in the end & running the table is one of my favorite things to do now.

Neil

Everything looks like its going to work great.. Do you have an overflow tank for water height? Or do you have an air bladder under the water to control water height? Just curious..

Dustin I don't have an overflow tank. Just turn on the air and the water starts to come up. When it gets to where you want the level to be just shut off the air. There is enough water in the tank you could make a big mess on the floor if you forget to shut off the air in time.:drowning:

I worked one of my files (a bugling bull elk) through Sheetcam today and put the Gcode into Mach. I hit the run button and watched the table take off and follow the code on the table and on Mach's screen. What a blast!
Then this afternoon I got curious and decided to see if my plasma torch was hooked up right or not. It is out of the mount currently that I broke and had to send in for repairs so I hand held it (away from me) fired up the table and Mach and hit the torch on button. SHAZAM! fire in the hole!(flame2) Now I can't wait to get my mount back and try to actually cut a part.

Go Bill Go - Very excited for you Bill

I worked one of my files (a bugling bull elk) through Sheetcam today and put the Gcode into Mach. I hit the run button and watched the table take off and follow the code on the table and on Mach's screen. What a blast!
Then this afternoon I got curious and decided to see if my plasma torch was hooked up right or not. It is out of the mount currently that I broke and had to send in for repairs so I hand held it (away from me) fired up the table and Mach and hit the torch on button. SHAZAM! fire in the hole!(flame2) Now I can't wait to get my mount back and try to actually cut a part.

I am in the process of building an aluminum waterbed.. I heard rumors that alum. and S.S. can produce highly explosive HHO gas when the plasma is running, is this true? If so should I continue....

Also I am about to order the Candcnc plaz pak. Should I go with two motors for my x axis( slave) or one x axis motor and run a driveshaft along the gantry w/ two spur gears at each end(basically two wheel drive) or one x axis motor and let the other side of the gantry free float on wheel bearings?

Sorry if I interrupted the build....Thanks

Yes cutting allly in water will present a potential KABOOM problem.

So bad that I have been told that the blast lifted the whole ganty off a machine and dumped over on the floor. This was an industrial cutting machine with a much heaver gantry.

Water tables that have the pneumatic (air) assisted water lift actually trap the gas under in the air chamber.

To help prevent this you must raise and lower /purge the gas out before cutting each morning and probably during if cutting ally all day.

Old mate that had his machine blow up was starting up for the first shift of the day and did not purge and clear the gas. That's why it went boom.

I am so interested I finally registered so I can reply instead of just reading the posts!
Suker

I am in the process of building an aluminum waterbed.. I heard rumors that alum. and S.S. can produce highly explosive HHO gas when the plasma is running, is this true? If so should I continue....

Also I am about to order the Candcnc plaz pak. Should I go with two motors for my x axis( slave) or one x axis motor and run a driveshaft along the gantry w/ two spur gears at each end(basically two wheel drive) or one x axis motor and let the other side of the gantry free float on wheel bearings?

Sorry if I interrupted the build....Thanks

Shouldn't have a problem with the tank itself being Al. It's the cut process of Al that produces the gas. just don't use Al. for your support slats.

I highly recomend 2 motors X + A slaved. You'll have better braking/reversing with 2 motors, also with the use of properly adjusted "0" home switches your gantry will self align with each return home. It's the first thing I do before every sheet I hit the Ref.X,Y There is just a lot of peace of mind with this feature.

plain ol Bill , nice workmanship , some youtube vids would be great


cheers

Thanks milliman and apples for the advice... I am going to start my build this weekend and post pictures and video for all to see...

It has been awhile since I have updated the thread so here goes. I managed to break my first linear stage. While waiting for it to be repaired I got another from a friend and set it up. It is larger and more robust so -----. The pic shows the new torch mount slide.
I got the torch mounted (finally) and could not see any reason it would not work. So I loaded some 10 ga. on the table and made a G code file for a 4" square piece w/ a 2" diameter hole in the center of it. VERY NERVOUSLY I hit the run button in Mach -- the thing took off -- pierced and cut the hole out then moved to the square part, pierced and cut that. Measuring it out it was a little out of tolerance so I started to mess w/ stuff - WILL I EVER LEARN TO LEAVE THINGS ALONE?? I changed motor tuning a little to dial in the length of the X axis and now the damn thing won't recut the file! I tried putting the original settings back in without any luck. It cuts larger and will not finish the last cut to sever the part out now. This is all without the THC on currently - I tried it with it on and it wanted to just drive the tip through the metal. Trials and tribulations!

Looking at that, it seems like the hole should be oval shaped instead of perfectly round, if the X is not feeding at the correct rate. ???

Glad to see you have had some success! I agree if the hole is round then you have a problem with the drawing.
I don't remember if I explained how I set my steps or not so here goes!
I just typed in the MDI line a rapid command to move 8 feet and measured the travel with a tape measure. Then adjusted the steps to match up to the travel. May not be the correct way but guess what, It works!

Now the learning curve takes another turn........ up!
Its time to remember all the little adjustments you have made and how they worked!:confused:

Both My X & Y are set up wit the exact same rack, pinion size, & belt reductions so they are identical. I started with movements of about 12" so I could accurately measure it with a vernier caliper. Then moved each axis the entire length of my tables capacity & measured with a tape. Even as small an amount as .005 per foot will nearly be 1/16" of error in 10'.

Doesn't sound like much but it can cause real problems


A slight problem I ran into once I had my table dialed in. Take your pictured part of a square with a circle burned inside. Keep In mind I am cutting with Oxy/fuel. I drew a teat part very much like yours 4" square with a 2" center hole For a particular torch tip I adjusted the kerf in Sheetcam till it cut a 4" square +/- .005 measuring with dial calipers. The center hole always ended up something like 1.980. In other words I could get the outer dimention near perfect but the ID always ended up small.

I played with it enough on different size inner & outer profiles till I determined The inner remained that .020 or so small no matter what size the part. The fix: I have to make all drawings of Id profiles about 0.020 oversize.

It's not a real problem for me as I run a production oriented shop & pretty much burn the same 50 or so parts over & over.

I could have achieved the same results by setting up a second tool with different kerf compensation for ID profiles. I decided it would be easier to draw it once & not have to remember to use 2 tool profiles.

I don't know if this is common or if it has something to do with OD usually cutting CCW & ID CW. I didn't play around with that either, again because I didn't want to have to change the default cut direction every time I set up a part.

Steve I did my steps per inch prety much the same way you did. The first time I entered to move the Y 48" it took off and if I had not had stops on the end the gantry would have flown off the table. That is when I started dialing in steps! I have it pretty close but not on the money currently.
I will get out there tomorrow and see if I can figure out what is going on that it will not repeat the original cut.

Two steps forward and three backwards. Yesterday I ran a new phone line connection to the area of my plasma table so I could talk to tech help. I spent today checking all my electrical connections, grounds and making sure I didn't have anything tied together that I shouldn't. I did find where I had put the wiring terminals from my Hyperthem arc OK signal on the wrong terminals of my THC board:nono:. As a result I had burned something in my CandCNC THC box. I talked w/ them today and boxed it up and sent it in for repair:withstupi. This should be the final thing before starting to cut correctly. I did cut a sample file without the THC today an it did cut and measure correctly. So I am on the right track now I think. I am convinced that electronics knowledge is a black art!

Two steps forward and three backwards. Yesterday I ran a new phone line connection to the area of my plasma table so I could talk to tech help. I spent today checking all my electrical connections, grounds and making sure I didn't have anything tied together that I shouldn't. I did find where I had put the wiring terminals from my Hyperthem arc OK signal on the wrong terminals of my THC board:nono:. As a result I had burned something in my CandCNC THC box. I talked w/ them today and boxed it up and sent it in for repair:withstupi. This should be the final thing before starting to cut correctly. I did cut a sample file without the THC today an it did cut and measure correctly. So I am on the right track now I think. I am convinced that electronics knowledge is a black art!

I had a still unknown problem with a part of my electronics on the initial "getting started stage" of my table. I could run for a short while then the X & A (long axis) would get out of synk with each other. We kept thinking "noise" or something in Windows was trying to run in the background.

Tom repalced some components & all was well afterward. CandCNC was very good to honor their warranty. All told they went above & beyond on the repair. I have run for well over a year now without another glitch.

When I build again I already know what electronics I am going to use.

Haven't heard from you in a while Bill, Any more progress?

I had to send my THC control box back for repairs after I hooked a couple of wires up wrong:withstupi:I decided to trade it in for the latest design the MPC 3000 being offered by Tom at CANDCNC:D. Upon receiving it the new box required a different cable (male to female) than the old one did. So another delay ----- finally got one today and will hook it up tomorrow.
Meanwhile I got a phone call from a contractor I used to work for quite a bit before retiring. To make a long story short I went back to work for a couple of months to help them (and me) out and they are working 6-10's. So that won't leave a lot of time to work on the table before mid summer.
I'm going to get that thing up and going no matter what it takes then!

I had to send my THC control box back for repairs after I hooked a couple of wires up wrong:withstupi:I decided to trade it in for the latest design the MPC 3000 being offered by Tom at CANDCNC:D. Upon receiving it the new box required a different cable (male to female) than the old one did. So another delay ----- finally got one today and will hook it up tomorrow.
Meanwhile I got a phone call from a contractor I used to work for quite a bit before retiring. To make a long story short I went back to work for a couple of months to help them (and me) out and they are working 6-10's. So that won't leave a lot of time to work on the table before mid summer.
I'm going to get that thing up and going no matter what it takes then!

Bill!!! I know it has to feel good that someone wants you back from retirement.......... Did ya think of saying. I'm really liking this retirement thing. I'd like to help but about 4 days a week will be enough for me.....:violin:

Thanks for the reply on the floating head switch.

You still on hold because of working?

I'm coming along slowly on getting mine plasma ready. My gantry rail has got a good bit wear in the linear rail. I have purchased a new larger rail but am upgrading with a second Z while at it. This will allow me to have Ox/Fuel on the front of my gantry & Plasma on the opposite side. No switching out torch heads.

My original rail is 15MM IKO rail. For some reason the bearing carriers had seals/wipers on the ends but were not sealed along the length on the underside. About a year into using the table the rail/bearings is wore enough I have wiggle on my Z axis every time I have a rapid direction change. I'm still getting good parts but I no longer have nice even kerf lines coming out of or around a sharp corner.

I'd love to go into semi-retirement & have time to dedicate myself to projects I want to do. As opposed to filling in for whoever has quit till I can replace/train in new help. I don't have too much trouble in the machine shop end of the operation. It is mostly with welders. You'd think it would be opposite. If I find someone that can do & remember jig ups, Their welding sucks. If they can lay 2 even beads side by side, I have to re train them from job to job. I just don't understand it. It AINT rocket science.......(flame2)

Ron since you already use a plasma you understand just how nasty these things can be. Controlling all that black crap is what the water is all about plus helping to control distortion from heat. The principle is simple really. I use full line air pressure on my table to raise the water and just control it by not opening the valve all the way. I crack the valve and the water level rises into the working part of the table. When the level gets to where I want it I just shut the valve off. The water stays at this level until you open a valve to let the air out and then the water goes back to the bottom of the tank.


I know there are some folks that do sumerge the work under water. The torch suppliers do NOT reccomend this - but some folks do it and get away with it. If I were cutting thin stainless I would likely try it myself.

I have a .pdf file that is too large to load here from Thermal Dynamics about water tables I could send you if you want. Drop me a private message w/ your email addy if you want it.

plain ol bill,

I see You use full line pressure,I assume that is 100psi+ or there abouts, and your table holds aprox 350gls. What do you use for your holding tank? Thanks!

WSS
:cool:

Hey Millman,
just out of curiosity, what would a (reasonable) welder make in after tax (i.e. take home amount) wages per month over there? As I say, just curious.
Phil

Hey Millman,
just out of curiosity, what would a (reasonable) welder make in after tax (i.e. take home amount) wages per month over there? As I say, just curious.
Phil

An in shop welder, (General without certs but good skills with MIG & hand cutting) Single, 40 hr work week (no overtime) net pay will be around $500.00 per week. That's with the shop providing everything but a personal welding hood & normal workwear.

It can vary greatly between geographic locations.

Millman52,

Is that figuring 50% in taxes?

:drowning:

Millman52,

Is that figuring 50% in taxes?

:drowning:

That would be an emplyees approximate net pay after taxes. I don't even want to figure all the extras. Workmens comp, matching social security, unemployment comp & accrued money for sick days, holidays, vacation etc., that I have to pay in addition..... Too depressing to go there.

I made my living on the end of a TIG torch or stinger for many many years (union construction Boilermaker). Worked in 32 states and been in all of them + a couple of foreign places. It ain't the easiest way to make a living but it will keep the wolf away from the door. Anymore I run the tool room on a local power plant outage when they have one, passing out tools and selling the custom knifes I make. Seeing all those guys come to the tool room all dirty and sweaty looking for tools sure makes me glad I'm not out there in all the mud, blood and beer anymore. There isn't a bunch of people in the world that can snivel and whine like a bunch of tube welders! (and I was one of em).
Loving this plasma table I built folks!

I made my living on the end of a TIG torch or stinger for many many years (union construction Boilermaker). Worked in 32 states and been in all of them + a couple of foreign places. It ain't the easiest way to make a living but it will keep the wolf away from the door. Anymore I run the tool room on a local power plant outage when they have one, passing out tools and selling the custom knifes I make. Seeing all those guys come to the tool room all dirty and sweaty looking for tools sure makes me glad I'm not out there in all the mud, blood and beer anymore. There isn't a bunch of people in the world that can snivel and whine like a bunch of tube welders! (and I was one of em).
Loving this plasma table I built folks!


plain ol bill, you must post some pics of the knives you make!!! This explains the OCD condition you had when you built your table. :stickpoke

WSS

That would be an emplyees approximate net pay after taxes. I don't even want to figure all the extras. Workmens comp, matching social security, unemployment comp & accrued money for sick days, holidays, vacation etc., that I have to pay in addition..... Too depressing to go there.

millman52,

You forgot to add in the cost of the stuff they break!!

$500/wk take home pay, wow, that's somewhat less than what I was expecting to hear. I'm not referring to your shop or you as I was only asking to get a general idea. My dad went to the US in 1975 and came back telling me that they had signs in the buses in Seattle looking for bus mechanics and were paying $18/hr... Then again maybe I haven't got my facts straight and maybe it was gross pay (pre tax etc.). Certainly the machinists and cnc programmers make a lot more judging by the "how much do you make" pole. Thanks for giving me an idea of things anyway.

WSS I will have to get some shots of the knives I am currently building and post them up for you guys. That is what keeps me out of the bars anymore (grin). It will be a little while but stay posted.

plain ol bill,
Alright!! An active maker, how cool is that? I do look forward to seeing some pics. I have not been active for about two years now. I have a 1.5yr old son who I am happily spending way to much time with. I am hoping to get in and finish a few projects I have going. I wish I could do it full time as it is a euphoric craft. I love that element of focus that makes your eyes go blurry (maybe I just need to give in and get some reading glasses).

WSS

Hey skippy,
$18usd an hour in 1975 was really good money, it was probably union. My dad was making $2 something an hour when he got out of the service in 69' (spot welding soda cans). A couple of years ago, a union welder (at least the operating engineers) could make over $100K a year. However he was not home much and did work a lot of overtime. Today a union welder is happy to have a job.

What was the mainstream welder making in Spain two years ago? How about today? A comment millman52 made regarding certifications is interesting. Most welders in the U.S. are not certified. It is structural and government work were certs are needed. What is required in Spain? Do all welders need to be certified?

WSS

plain ol Bill,

How about those knife pics? Or at least a clue to what your doing.....Forging?.....Grinding?......CNC cutting blanks? I am sure you have heard or read about the "what makes a handmade knife handmade"? I think CNC counts as handmade personally. If you can draw it and get the machine to do the magic then all is fair!

Cheers!
WSS

Sorry bout being so slow (actually I forgot). I will get some shots tomorrow and get them in here. I am a banger (forger)and work exclusively (well 99% anyway) in damascus. I claim sole authorship of my knife work as it all comes from raw materials. Most of my tools are home made - my forge, hydraulic forging press, one of the grinders etc. I do have a commercial air hammer however. I had made a Kinyon design hammer but sold it when an irrestible deal came up on my Sahinler.

As requested I am posting pics of some of the knives I make. I will also throw in a couple of shots of plasma stuff just to keep on topic in here. Any comments appreciated.

I have a question, does anyone have dibs on the un-finished hunter?

WSS

WSS pm sent your way.

Got it! The file work on the Plainsman is awesome. I will hunt down the pics of the timascus folder and send it your way, it is loaded down with similar file work.

Cheers!
WSS

Bill sent me a hand made knife as a gift and it is one of my most prized possessions. I can feel the craftsmanship in the blade as it was folded and forged. I only take it out to show to guests and to admire. I have this superstition about tools and objects made by a true craftsman. I feel that some of their energy is left and by touching and feeling I might be able to soak some it up. I have some tools from my father (he was an engraver) and even some simple wrenches from my wife's Grandfather that I keep as "Special".

I may have watched too many Star Wars movies:p

Tom Caudle
www.CandCNC.com

Knifemaking is as much philosophy as it is technology. Every impact of the hammer and movement of the hand to meet the impact is human G and M code happening with no buffer, it is real time, all the senses are active, your eyes your nose, touch. They all accumulate and with experience, write the file. There are times when the knifemaker would rather take off that half thousandth by hand instead of a machine simply because he trusts his hands more than his machine!. No knife is "perfect" and that is why they are "perfect". A perfect blend of artistry and craftsmanship. Knives are also like CNC plasma tables, If one meets your needs then buy it, if not make it yourself. Well that was lame, I don't "collect" plasma tables.

Torchead, you are fortunate to have one of Bill's knives. He not only follows the true roots, but is pushing the limits of the craft to the benefit of many other makers. I have used pieces of "timascus' that have come out of his shop that are amazing to say the least. Don't be afraid to use that knife, without question it will out perform and out last any production knife.

WSS

Thank you for the comments guys. I put a lot of myself into each knife I make and gain deep personal satisfaction from making them. It is important to me to be able to claim sole authorship in making a custom knife.
I hope the day will come that I will be able to run my plasma table with the same capability that goes into my knife work. I plan on visiting with Torchhead on a road trip from Washington to Texas next month. Hopefully a couple of hours spent with him will give me insights on how to better run my torch height controller better. It will also be nice to meet a fellow craftsman in a different genre.

All:
Believe it or not, my first use of forums so learning fast...well...maybe not so fast. I am trying to find any plans people have used for building a plasma cutting table. I see them mentioned a lot but cannot find where to download them. For 25+ years I have been selling welding and cutting (flame, plasma, water jet, laser) equipment (starting with electric eye machines before CNC)and robotic welding systems (ABB, FANUC, KUKA) and also doing small fabrication as well as blacksmithing as a hobby. Selling was/is my thing and know very little about the motion control part of the machine (at least to make one) Mechanical stuff no problem.
Any direction would be appreciated! I'll continue my search through the site!
Located in Massachusetts in case anyone is from around these parts.
Thanks!

I am trying to find any plans people have used for building a plasma cutting table. I see them mentioned a lot but cannot find where to download them.

Welcome to CNC Zone!:wave:

Click HERE (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14488&highlight=free+plasma+table+plans&page=4) & check posts 43 & 44 for plasma table plans.

bill those are some very impressive knives. beutiful work

I like your air baffle idea to flood and drain the table!! I want to incorporate something like this on my table. I am wondering how much air pressure it take to raise the water level to working level? I am trying to decide what gauge of steel to use for the bladder. Any info on this would be great.

Thanks,

Jim

Jim my standard line pressure is about 100 psi and I use full line pressure into the tank. You do not actually need that much for it to work but it makes it a little faster;). My table is make from 10 ga. material for all the tank parts. If you make a water table I think you will be really pleased w/ it.

I agree the 100 psi would fill the table faster but when you shut off the air in, what amount of air pressure is actually in the water tank? I doubt its anywhere close to 100 psi. By the sound of it you must not have a gauge on it. Im guessing the pressure would be less than 30 psi?

Thanks for the input,

Jim

Jim that would be my guess also since I don't have a gauge on the tank itself.

Extra pressure will create faster flow of course.
Water creates .48 psi per vertical foot of rise. So only 5-10 psi should be enough pressure to make the transfer. If you are building anything other than a round with convex end pressure/ holding tank I'd use as low pressure as possible to keep from stressing the tank. You definitely dont want to rupture a tank with air pressure even at very low pressure.