Hello. I've built a milling machine recently. It has a hollow spindle for a drawbar and a morse #2 taper. I do have a collet set, but it's a hassle to keep changing the collets, not to mention that the gripping force is on the low side and the small diameters some times just slip.

I was wondering: if I can get an integral shank (no jacobs taper) drill chuck with a threaded back for a drawbar, do you think I can use it to hold end mills? This is a small 1/2 HP machine and I'm not attempting huge cuts with it. I just want to have the convenience of an adjustable holding system...

P. S. Don't try milling on the drill press. I think I've ****ed up the bearings.

Nope, endmills in drill chucks are mostly a no-no :) Wrong tool for the wrong job. There is simply not enough holding power.

Morse taper #2 weldon style holders are availabe on the cheap from several places.

If you don't have variable speed, I'd get cutters with flute and diameter combinations that match your available speeds for the material you want to cut and stick with that.

Otherwise, you'll likely have some problems with cutter life like I did :)

Mike

Of course it is a No, No to some people, :) but on a 1/2hp machine a good drill chuck has ample holding power. If it is an integral shank chuck and it is held in the morse taper with a draw bar then it will work fine. I have even held milling cutters, and taps, in a good quality integral shank chuck on a CNC mill. It is necessary to be gentle with feeds but that is all.

So that's where I went wrong :) I left off the draw bar... so the shank kept dropping out of the machine. With predictably bad results. Ah, the joys of learning.

Thanks Geof!



Mike

Too much stickout from the spindle nose when you mount an endmill in the drill chuck.I'd recommend to stick with collets for milling.Just because it fits, doesn't mean it's made for the process.......

cheers

Do not use a Drill Chuck for holding end mills for any reason. Chucks are designed to grip drills and push them straight down only. They are not intended for the lateral forces of horizontal milling. It can ruin the chuck and jam the clamping mechinism. It's also dangerous because the cutter can come loose and fly out of the chuck. Please work safe when using machine tools.

Only time to use an endmill in a drill chuck is if you are going to drill with it, and it can still work poorly even for that.
A drawbar is crucial for an MT taper that is used for milling.

So there is no way to have a single tool holder that works for many diameters?

So there is no way to have a single tool holder that works for many diameters? Unfortunately no. You have two choices only:

1. Hard holders that only hold one size.

2. Collets held in a collet chuck.

End mills must be held rigidly. And believe me tool changes are the least of your worries. :D

You can get HSS 3/8" shank end mills in a variety of sizes. From 1/8" up to 3/8".

Something like this should work well even though it says its for woodworking.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=5352&refcode=05INFROO

Here are #2 Morse taper end mill holers with a draw bar thread:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1978&category=


NEATman

Something like this should work well even though it says its for woodworking.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=5352&refcode=05INFROO

That will work provided the MT taper is tapped for a drawbar, the collets may not be hardened enough for gripping a tool though.

The collets Neatman linked are better though because the tool is gripped closer to the end of the spindle.

That will work provided the MT taper is tapped for a drawbar, the collets may not be hardened enough for gripping a tool though.

The collets Neatman linked are better though because the tool is gripped closer to the end of the spindle.

I have a set identical to that one. The quality is somewhat low, but I wasn't expecting miracles for the bargain price of $40.

I've bought end mill holders, but they are not a definitive solution. If you keep changing them constantly you'll wear down the spindle's taper and it's not something I'd like to solve. That's why I wanted the quick change collets; if something screws up at least the machine remains intact.

Well, my problem also comes from the fact that my gear comes from a very cheap 3 in 1 chinese machine (identical to the HF 5980) and the quality of the steel is horrible. I separated the head of that machine and made a standalone mill and lathe. I am always anxious about things wearing out just for not having the proper level of hardness/steel quality.

I'm sure there must be a solution. I'll think about the problem and get back to you guys.