Got some timing pulleys and belts from sdp-si.com and modified for my X2 main drive and they work very well.

Super quiet
4250 RPM in high
Use stock gear change for high/low – I don’t hear the internal gears

That is a great idea. Others would greatly benefit in your work, could you post your part numbers?

Chukkie,

Fantastic!

Hate to ask, but does your spindle get hot when you run this at top speed?

The spindle will get hot after running about 10 minutes or so at 4250 rpm's.

I will post the part numbers after I hunt them down.

I'm interested in this as well. I'd be happy to help with some sort of diagram if you'd share you're information.

Thanks in advance,

Vogavt

The parts I used

A 6R 3-031037
A 6A 3-20DF03708
A 6A 3-15DF03708

I used a lathe to modify these pulleys and used the stock gears for reference.
Also had to take a little off the inside of the top black housing – you can see in pic.
Also cut the flanges off the 15 grove pulley.

used the lathe to modify these pulleys and used the stock gears for reference.

I'm assuming you're talking about the outer diameters, but can you be more specific as to what modifications you made?

had to take a little off the inside of the top black housing
Are you talking about the shiny area between the gears?

Last question: How did you manage to get the correct belt tension between them? I've looked at mine and only see a limited amout of adjustment. Maybe I'm overlooking something obvious.

Thanks in advance,
Vogavt

I'm assuming you're talking about the outer diameters, but can you be more specific as to what modifications you made?


Are you talking about the shiny area between the gears?

Last question: How did you manage to get the correct belt tension between them? I've looked at mine and only see a limited amout of adjustment. Maybe I'm overlooking something obvious.

Thanks in advance,
Vogavt

The drive pullet I bored out the hole, added a keyway, turned the sides till the flanges fell off, cut the hub off made a spacer and dished out one side of the pulley to center the pulley up.

The other pulley I did the same thing accept left the flanges on.

Yes the shiny area between the gears

On my X2 there was plenty of adjustment for the belt.

Also had to reverse the motor wires to get it to turn clockwise.

Also had to reverse the motor wires to get it to turn clockwise.

Hmmm... begs the question of why did you have to reverse the spindle direction. Mine runs CW anyway so I'm not sure how this mod makes that change.

Confused....

Hmmm... begs the question of why did you have to reverse the spindle direction. Mine runs CW anyway so I'm not sure how this mod makes that change.

Confused....

When you have 2 gears one turns in one direction and the other turns in the opposite direction.

When you have 2 pulleys and a belt they both turn in the same direction.

:withstupi

Didn't think about that. I'll have to pay closer attention when I finally get my C11 board in and try to wire this all up.

Thanks for clearing that up!

Vogavt

Don't know about your X2, but there were 2 gear transmissions in my mill. One is right under the black cover, the other is inside the head (high low gearing). So it still doesn't make sense. Unless you have just switched out the gears under the cover, and is still using the internal high low gears. I have a belt drive kit installed on my mill, and I have never had to revese the direction of the motor.

Took another good look at the picture you posted. You are still using the internal gears on your mill. That answers that question. I would like a pulley transmission like this if it bypassed the plastic gears inside the head. Don't know if there is enough space for that.

Kudos chukkie! Nicely done!

CR.

He's removed the original gears and replaced them with smaller gears that no longer mesh. Now he's using a belt to transfer the kinetic energy from the spindle motor's gear to the quill's gear, which must now turn in the same direction.

Originally the quill rotated CW only because the Spindle motor turned CCW. In order for the quill to continue to turn CW, the Spindle motor must do likewise under this setup.

The whole point I did this was to keep the stock internal gears for fast changing of high/low, more rpm and to make it quieter.

Also no big pulleys on top. - Looks stock

This was my first attempt with brass gears I made.

Man was it loud !!!!!!!!

My 4th axis is another X2 spindle head mounted to the mill table.

Voqav: got it after looking at the picture. Forgot about reading the text :P Sorry about that one. Is really all the noise comming from the first set og gears?

Voqav: got it after looking at the picture. Forgot about reading the text :P Sorry about that one. Is really all the noise comming from the first set og gears?

yes all that noise is comming from the first set of gears

Well chukkie you'll be happy to know I've got the set ordered. I also got an extra belt too and it all cost me just under $35.00 (including S&H).

Can't wait to get it switched out!

Thanks for sharing the information.

Vogavt

Good, I hope it works out for you as well as it has for me.

My 4th axis is another X2 spindle head mounted to the mill table.

Cool. You certainly have a knack of approaching a problem from a different angle. :) Thinking here of the Z axis conversion as well. I happen to have a spare X2 head kicking around.

How did you index the 4th axis to cut that gear ? I'm assuming the horizontal head still has the original DC motor attached ?

Cool. You certainly have a knack of approaching a problem from a different angle. :) Thinking here of the Z axis conversion as well. I happen to have a spare X2 head kicking around.

How did you index the 4th axis to cut that gear ? I'm assuming the horizontal head still has the original DC motor attached ?

No

pic with R-8 chuck

Well chukkie you'll be happy to know I've got the set ordered. I also got an extra belt too and it all cost me just under $35.00 (including S&H).

Can't wait to get it switched out!

Thanks for sharing the information.

Vogavt


A little update on the pricing for those considering. I thought the S&H was included but apparently only the handling was stated. Still okay with it, just caught me by surprise.

FYI:

LATEST MAIL
**********************************************

The content of your order is as follows.

Part Number Quantity Unit Price Extension
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A 6R 3-031037 2 $4.90/Each $9.80
A 6A 3-20DF03708 1 $11.31/Each $11.31
A 6A 3-15DF03708 1 $9.84/Each $9.84
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subtotal: $30.95
Shipping: $9.81
Handling: $3.95
Sales Tax ( NY State Only ): $0.00
Purchase Total: $44.71

---------------------------------------------------------------------
*Note: Freight amounts were determined using standard published list rate
---------------------------------------------------------------------



PREVIOUS EMAIL
**********************************************
Part Number Quantity Unit Price Extension
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A 6R 3-031037 2 $4.90/Each $9.80
A 6A 3-15DF03708 1 $9.84/Each $9.84
A 6A 3-20DF03708 1 $11.31/Each $11.31
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subtotal: $30.95
Shipping: *
Handling: $3.95
Sales Tax ( NY State Only ): $0.00

---------------------------------------------------------------------
*Note: Freight amounts to be determined using standard published list rate
---------------------------------------------------------------------

SDP-SI ships very quickly, but they don't tell shipping cost until the item ships.

CR.

Chukkie,

I finally got around to attempting the modification this afternoon.

I've run into a snag. The parts I ordered listed above don't have the correct inside diameter to fit onto the original parts. In other words, they don't fit.

Did you have to do some lathing on the spindle motor's shaft and on the other part as well?


The spindle motor's shaft is 0.352" outside diameter.
The other shaft where the nylon gear was at is .394" outside diameter

The bore size of both pulleys is only 0.25".

Also, which gear goes where?

Standing by.......

I used a lathe to modify these pulleys and used the stock gears for reference.


I see now that you must have been talking about measuring the shafts and turned the inside of the new gears accordingly.


Also had to take a little off the inside of the top black housing – you can see in pic.

Got it.


Also cut the flanges off the 15 grove pulley.

From looking at the first picture it appears that you used the smaller pulley on the spindle motor.


Back to the workshop I go........

Just wanted to post again and let you know I think I've got it sorted out.

Thanks anyway,

Vogavt

If you HAVE a lathe, and boring tools, you can easily bore out the pulleys.

CR.

If you HAVE a lathe, and boring tools, you can easily bore out the pulleys.

CR.

Well, I do HAVE a mini-lathe but I can't chuck up something with that small of a hub. I can do it from the one of the flanges but that will prevent me from removing the inner flange that's chucked up.

Hmmm....

The flanges look like they can be remove fairly easily so I guess I'll give it a $44.71 shot!

I'm going to try to use some sort of shim in the teeth of the lathe and see what I can come up with.

Wish me luck!

What? I thought you just had to increase the bore some. You should be able to chuck up the hubs in a mini lathe. Why do you need to remove the flanges?

CR.

My mini lathe came with 2 sets of jaws and I had no problem chucking to the hub (if they have a hub). You only need to remove 1 flange off the little pulley so you can get the belt on when you assemble. I just turned the metal till the flanges fell off. Then you need to put a key slot in them.

My mini lathe came with 2 sets of jaws and I had no problem chucking to the hub (if they have a hub). You only need to remove 1 flange off the little pulley so you can get the belt on when you assemble. I just turned the metal till the flanges fell off. Then you need to put a key slot in them.


Managed to get them turned down to size and bored out. Removed the flanges but didn't realize that I only needed to remove the one. I makes sense now.

I was getting back on tonight to ask the question about the key slot, because I couldn't get the gears to fit since they were too tall. A little more scrutiny of the one photo revealed that the hubs are gone, so I went ahead and have lathed at least one of them completely off (the larger one for where the plastic gear was) and countersunk the area where the original screw went on top.

Since the hub is where the set screws were and since it is now gone, I come to realize that now I've got to learn how to key a slot.

I don't have the tools to do it I don't think.

Anybody feel like jumping in here and throwing out a few pointers?

Another question about the 15 notched gear that going on the motor shaft:

I've turned the geared portion downward and placed the hub up into the motor. There's just barely enough room to reach the original set screws (remember I haven't lathed it off just yet). Looks like I could get away with not having to cut a key slot in it and locate one of the set screws into the slot on the shaft. All I'd have to do is turn down the other end just enough so it would sit down into the hole/pocket in the mill head.

Comments?



P.S. I sure wished I'd had some dimensions to go on and maybe a quick drawing. I'll see what I can do once I get this all together. I've been doing CAD since 1988 (yes there were CAD workstations back then!) so I could whip up something when it's all said and done. I just need some pointers for the key slot now.


Vogavt

P.S.S. Yes, I said nineteen eighty-eight! LOL!

You can use the lathe to key a slot.... grind the tool to the proper thickness of the key and lock the chuck head in back gear to restrict the movement. Center the tool to the centerline of the pulley and tilt the tool post in a slight angle toward the sharp edge of the tool and using the feed make very small broaching passes of about .002 or so. It seems this would take a long time but actually it is a very fast operation....I hope this helps, if you need more assistance just ask.

Bob

I'm obviously new to this. LOL!

I have a mini lathe so it doesn't have a back gear, only a high/low setting. I've looked through the manual and don't see how to "Lock" the chuck head from rotating.


New thought...
I looked online and saw where someone had made a broach by taping multiple hack saw blades together. Got me to thinking about the possibility of using a scroll saw. Could this be done IF one is very careful?

A scroll saw is what I used. LOL

When you get it all done it will be well worth the time.

Well a scroll saw will work but it is a messy slot and only on plastic.... Low gear should hold it in place, just insure that the head doesnt rotate when you make a pass (you could hold it with one hand while making the cut with the other)... once you begin you will get the jest. if you mess up just turn it 180 degrees and start again... it is quite easy.