Getting my 4-jaw chuck in 2 weeks. I have to learn how to center it, I have no clue what to use.

I would like to know what would be a more cost effective tool to use to center a workpiece in a 4-jaw chuck. Could I use a Wiggler Center Finding Tool or spend the extra cash for a Test Dial Indicator with a magnetic base.

How is the wiggler supported? Need quick setups and super precision is not very crucial. After all its just a steam engine cylinder I will need to offcenter bore and other similar work. I spent $4000.00 CAD on a lathe and a drillpress and all my shop tools and benches. This spending has to stop. HAHAHA :drowning:

thx
:rolleyes:

Get a dial indicator, and magnetic base, no question there. It takes a while to get used to adjusting the jaws in the correct direction to correct runout, but after you've done it a couple of thousand times, it becomes second nature :D

A wiggler is of no use if the part has no center drilled hole or a punch mark. There are thousands of hollow parts that require setting up that a wiggler would be useless for.

Use your little brass hammer to beat it into submissive center :D

If you are turning for example a 1" round stock down to .750, you will not need to spend a lot of time getting it perfect (Unless your name is Murray :D), just close and the offset will soon disappear as you cut it. In this hypothetical example it could be off as much as .250 and you still would end up with your .750 shaft. But I am sure you can get it a lot closer then that :)

You can also eyeball the jaws to see if they are oriented equally in the slot they slide in, there are normally circular grooves on the chuck face, I use these for the rough set.

After a while you will be amazed how close you can come just eyeballing it.

Another edit:
BTW, get in the habit right now of not leaving your chuck key in the chuck for any reason what so ever, I.E. never and no loose long sleeve shirt cuffs to get caught up in the chuck. Always be thinking how this sucker can hurt you.

Ken ur a killer. Hahaha. One day I will get my tongue stuck in my chuck as I drool over the projects I do.

I will purchase a Test Dial Indicator with a holder.

thx


-- upgraded my camera just for you. :wave:

Learn about test bars, go to the locale metal supplier in your neck of the woods and lay in a stock of drop round stock for your test bars. Make sure your machine is level, setup of the machine is the most inportant place to start (before you cut the back plate for the chuck) It's back to basics when you install a new chuck! Good luck and have fun with it!

(before you cut the back plate for the chuck) It's back to basics when you install a new chuck! Good luck and have fun with it!

Mmmm, I really don't understand. Installing a chuck with an adaptor plate made for my lathe that is included as a kit with the chuck. What is this backplate I need to cut. Isn't going from a stock 3" 3-jaw to a 4" 4-jaw with an adaptor plate and back to the 3" 3-jaw a simple swap?

I think it is...

Eric

Oh I get it, thats for people that buy a 4" chuck and want to bolt it up so they have to make their own backplateplate. Mine is included with the chuck.

It is a lot of work to make that plate so I decided to buy the kit instead and save me time, and error = money.

That would be a project on its own. Not worth the cost of the plate. I'm a noob. :stickpoke

You can buy the chuck without the adaptor plate.

Eric

I suppose if the jaws do not scroll together...then I would wonder why you would want a 4 jaw for round stock. If your making something round out of square or rectangular bar then I would eyeballed it, face the end and drill a center for the tailstock center. Eventually you will come to value either 5C collets, or chucks with self-centering jaws (minor adjustments required or shimming).

Here is my usual reason ViperTX
You used the 4 jaw previously, and do not want to screw around changing to the 3 jaw just so you can re-install the four jaw to finish the job :D