View Full Version : New Machine Build 8020 build 3x5
sieg01 06-30-2008, 07:06 PM Hello everyone,
I've been starting to gather components for my new machine.
8020 1530 pieces from 8020 surplus for most of the frame
Cncrouterparts for the linear carriages, leadscrew bearings, and motor mounts.
5 start 1/2-10 acme rod for the leadscrews
dumpstercnc couplers and AB nuts
3 425ozin keling stepper motors
The new gecko g250 when it comes out
more to be added later
Here is preliminary sketchup drawing.
Comments are appreciated!
sieg01 06-30-2008, 07:08 PM picture
dcb007 06-30-2008, 07:16 PM Hey,
I build one smaller but similar. Might give you some ideas. Visit http://www.neo7cnc.com
Look forward to updates on your progress.
Dave
ahren 07-07-2008, 07:00 PM Sieg,
I'll be watching to see how things go! Your parts should arrive towards the end of the week (once I get the radial bearings you requested). Cool that you're going with the G250 -- it will be interesting to see a machine using some of the latest and greatest components.
Ahren
www.cncrouterparts.com
MakotoKamui 07-08-2008, 12:20 PM Hey, great to see another 8020 build in the works. What kind of footprint are you thinking of?
Also, just curious, why did you go with the 5-start Acme screws?
Can't wait to see your progress!
anne_mrudula 07-08-2008, 12:25 PM Hey that looks good. I need a small help. am working on designing a CNC machine using solidworks for a course of mine. Am kinda strucka s I dont know where to start or what design to work with. Can you suggest em some ideas so that I can go ahead with my project.
sieg01 07-08-2008, 12:29 PM For my footprint I'm shooting for 3 by 5. I haven't gotten it completely designed up yet. It has to be at least 5 feet long... the y-axis I have some leeway. Not sure yet how much on the z-axis yet. Anyone have any thoughts on the height of the z-axis?
I went with the 5-start screw mostly for a decent speed. It seems they are better all ways in the 1 or 2 start ones except for cost. Also it seems that a lot of people who start on the 1 start end up switching to the 5-start.
sieg01 07-08-2008, 12:32 PM Hi anne,
I'm not sure if I can help you much... This is my first machine. What I did was look at lots of other people's machines to get some ideas. Such as, Joes 4x4, Hack's Machine, jgro, joes 2006.
MakotoKamui 07-08-2008, 01:01 PM That'll be an impressive beast when complete at that size - especially if you get some good speed with those 5-starts. Maybe I should switch to them as well, speed is one of my big concerns right now.
What are you going to be doing with the machine? That'll be the biggest decision maker for your Z axis. Seems like most of the setups around here have around 1-2" Z travel, but I built mine with 10". Biggest limitation there is actually the drill bit - I don't trust super-long bits, so I can't carve 10" straight down into a block of material.
sieg01 07-08-2008, 02:25 PM I'll mostly be trying to cut kiteboards... along with trying out skis and snowboard perhaps. So I wouldn't need that much z travel.
I have other ideas more artistic ideas... like a 3d relief of a map. That could use the slightly longer z travel. Although I probably could do something like that a few (vertical) inches at a time and glue it up.
ahren 07-08-2008, 04:26 PM 5 start screws help for a few of reasons -- they're more efficient than single start, so for the same power in you get more speed/thrust out. They also require less rotational speed for the same linear speed, which has two benefits. First of all, it allows stepper motors to operate in a lower rotational speed range where they are more efficient. Secondly, the point at which longer screws start to whip is a function of rotational speed, so with multi-start screws, you can get more linear speed before screw whip cuts you off.
Ahren
www.cncrouterparts.com
sieg01 09-24-2008, 09:41 AM First Cuts.. More later :)
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ahren 09-24-2008, 12:09 PM Awesome machine! The motion looks super smooth and fast. If you want to get your Z-axis closer to the gantry to cut down on flex, I now sell a Z-plate that will bolt directly to the carriages spanning your Z-rail. You just need to tap the carriage holes to 3/8-16.
If you're willing to provide a Bill of Materials for your machine, I'm happy to send you a Z plate and low profile bearing (that the Z plate can slide over) for free. I'd like to post the BOM on my site since there's lots of folks asking for good machine plans, and yours is one of the best I've seen. Shoot me an email through the website if you're interested.
Best regards,
Ahren
www.cncrouterparts.com
contactirfu 09-24-2008, 01:55 PM thats a nice cut, kindly post pictures of the full machine.
stepinator 09-25-2008, 11:01 AM Very Nice! Looks like everything is going quick and smooth.
Now comes the sleepless nights, cutting everything you can think of:)
I'll have to stop over and see it "live" in action!
Good work again.
sieg01 09-25-2008, 09:42 PM Camera broke so I took some video of my machine.
Overview
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X-axis
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Y-axis
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Z-axis and drive screw
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Electronics
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sieg01 09-25-2008, 09:46 PM Kiteboard
Drilling out the holes for the tnuts that are used for the foot straps.
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Cutting out the board
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Finished boards
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crocky 09-28-2008, 02:43 AM Looks like it is working pretty good, I am about to convert my system from xylotex to G251's, a 48 volts 7.5 amp, Keling Steppers and a C10 break out board so it was good to actually see one working :)
Good Stuff....
ahren 09-30-2008, 03:07 PM Sieg,
Did you get the Z-axis plate and bearing I sent yet? I'm interested to see if it works out for you.
Thanks,
Ahren
sieg01 09-30-2008, 03:14 PM Yes I just got it yesterday. I started to put it on... but I have been getting busy with other things. I'll take some pictures when I get it together.
grahamshere 10-08-2008, 03:36 PM Very nice machine. When mine grows up he wants to be just like yours lol. Is that the Milwaukee router your using, very quiet . what cutting and rapid speed to you get with the 5 start?I just ordered 8tpi 4start and cant wait to hook them up. Graham
sieg01 10-08-2008, 03:45 PM I've been cutting at around 100ipm... I'm pretty sure I have played around with it at 200-300ipm not cutting. I've only cut a few things on it so I haven't pushed it to its limits.
I'll try and post a few pictures the next few days of what I have cut.
The router I am using is a Haitchi m12vc router. Great price for a refurb one here...
http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Hitachi_M12VC_2-14_Peak_HP_Variable_Speed_Fixed_Base_Router_(Reconditioned)___i310.aspx
grahamshere 10-08-2008, 04:04 PM Wow thanks for the link, $60.00 man thats a great deal and even a yr warr. Thank you so much,cant wait to see more picts.Graham
Buick455 10-12-2008, 01:28 AM Hey sieg
Couple questions for ya...
Did you go with a 3'x5' b/c you bought a 36" and a 72" lead screw so you could cut it for the Z & Y? The reason I ask is b/c that’s exactly what I'm contemplating, lol... how did you compensate for the deflection on the Y? I was going to use a piece of 3030 for the length, but according to the deflection calc ahren said to play with it comes to 0.015in over a 60" span. The 3060 only has a 0.002in over the same span, which is great b/c with the 1/4 in steel its probably nill, but they are awful proud of the 3060 & 1545 in at least a 5' sticks... I've even debated the idea of filling the center cavity of the 3030 with something, maybe extremely thinned cement and vibrate it in, then let it set for a week (like I could leave it alone that long) or a vertical peice of 1" flat steel if it fits tight enough?? I like the concrete idea better though :D
It looks great btw.. lets get them pictures, I would really like some more of the base…
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