Since I needed a place to post pictures and tell my tale somewhere other than my own website which is really only looked at by family, I figured I'd go ahead and start a thread here that explained what I did and why.

Considering the table is done, (first cut on it tonight!!) I will try and go back to the beginning of why I did what I did and how I went about doing it.

Hope some of you guys keep up and let me know what you think, etc.

I'll try to post as quickly as possible, but a 7-month old can keep you on your toes!

I have always wanted a plasma cutter so around the beginning of February I went and got a Miller Spectrum 625 after much debating on brand, capacity, etc.

Go ahead, give me flak about the Miller -- I hear it all the time. I chose the Miller because I'm in good with the guys down at the local AirGas, and I'm partial to the power of blue. :)

I used the machine off and on to trim stainless sheet and mess around with, but it was aggravating to try and cut a straight line (even with the straight line roller guide I bought from Miller) without it looking like a drunk did it.

So ... I got a hairbrained idea to make a CNC plasma table.

My shop teacher from high school heard of my idea and showed me the PlasmaCam table he got the school to buy before he retired. The table, the machine, no computer, and two art CDs were $13,000. A little high for me, but I think those systems are designed for people with not much tinker time or down time to spare.

I had some basic designs sketched out that I thought would work until I started seeing what everyone online had been doing. Needless to say, my designs rapidly changed.

I typically will not even start a project until I have the entire design finished and all the kinks worked out (not in the typical government contractor fashion, of course), so it was the better part of a month of sketching, drawing, trashing, redesigning, researching, and thinking before I had a plan.

I eventually went from a full frame from 80/20 extruded aluminum to tube steel.

And so the project began.

I scrapped the 80/20 idea due to the prohibitive cost and the fact that the local shop that stocked everything 80/20 kind of blew me off even when I told them I was ready to spend some money and would they please help me out. Oh well; their loss.

The frame ended up being 2" and 1-1/2" square steel tubing. I have the Y-axis rails and supporting legs underneath them out of the 2" tubing and all the cross braces out of 1-1/2" tubing.

I used 23' of 2" x 2" x 1/4" tubing and 30' of 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 3/16" tubing for the frame. The leveling plates on the bottom of the 4 legs are 4" x 4" x 1/2" plates with a 3/4" long 1/2"-13 bolt in the corner. I have no idea if these will even be used; the garage floor seems pretty level right now to begin with. These plates were actually added later so they won't appear in the pictures for a while.

I have a DeWalt portable bandsaw I used to cut the steel into the pieces I needed, ground off the crud with a flapper disc on my side grinder, and tacked everything together with, yep, you guessed, my Miller welder.

The 1-1/2" cross braces needed to be exactly the same length to keep things square, so I welded them in pairs. I took B-Line unistrut 4-hole splice places and 4-hole T's and welded them together, then welded them to the ends of the cross braces. After tacking them up and making sure both pairs of braces were the same length, I cut them apart.

So now I had 2 Y-axis frames tacked together and 4 cross braces tacked up.

Time to drill and tap some holes.

Little did I know that I would manage to drill around 650 holes and tap 240 of them, ranging in size from 1/2"-13 all the way down to 4-40.

I lugged my drill press off the workbench, set the two Y-axis frames up on buckets, and went to drilling the starter holes for the 1/2"-13 bolts I planned on using to hold the entire frame together.

What a royal pain in the rear. Balancing the frame, drilling the holes, and holding the vacuum to the shavings all at once was tricky, but I managed to pull it off.

The wife was even gracious enough to let me use her spot in the garage/shop whilst I made a mess. (I have to clean up afterwards, by her decree...)

The gantry design gave me the most difficulty.

I knew I would like to use a piece of 80/20 aluminum because it is light and strong and fairly cheap. But how would I attach X-axis rails to it? How would I attach it to the Y-axis rails? How would I make the bracing strong enough so it wouldn't wobble? I tried to consider every way I could screw it up by design.

I found a guy on eBay that sells used but good condition 80/20 everything, so I got a 96" piece of #2040. The #2040 is 2" wide and 4" tall. I figured it would be good enough to hold the weight of two linear rails and all the crap that goes with it.

Conveniently enough, the holes in the ends are exactly the size of a #7 drill bit, which taps to a 1/4"-20. This was very handy later in the build process.

The frame came together pretty quickly once I had all the holes drilled and tapped. A 3/4" box end wrench and a rubber hammer to get everything relatively squared up finished the first bolt-up of the frame.

I had seen supports for the metal that is being cut on a plasma table plenty of times in person and online. Most of the time they were made from thin strips of sheet metal either in straight lines or wavy patterns.

Logistically, this was a stupid design for me to try and copy. How was I going to get the metal cut, bent, and fitted into place to begin with? After using the table for a while, how was I going to replace worn out supports quickly and cheaply?

My answer? I wasn't. Time to think of something else, preferably cheaper, faster, and easier.

I came up with long threaded screws or bolts with a jam nut on either side in case you needed to adjust the height. I designed 13 pieces of 1" angle, each with 14 holes. In each hole would be a 4" long hex-headed cap screw with a fixed nut on the top and an adjustable nut on the bottom. That's 182 holes to drill and 364 tacks to make. I guess I'm just a sucker for tedious work.

So I bought 65' of the 1" angle, and the metal shop enjoyed my small orders so much that they threw in the 24" piece of 2" angle for free that I planned on using for motor bracket supports.

Now I'm up to the end of March and have bought nothing but steel and piddly hardware, all of which is dirty and heavy and doing anything with it makes lots of noise and mess.

The wife was thrilled, but optimistic, for my sanity's sake.

With the exception of the plasma cutter itself, the four linear rails were the most expensive piece of hardware I bought. In the beginning I had designed some really slick ball bearing rollers on pipe, then migrated to using linear slides from 80/20, but in the end decided that the time and effort and error-generating manual labor wouldn't be worth it.

I found 55" long linear rails on eBay, and bought four of them; 2 for the Y-axis and 2 for the X-axis.

They were heavy, greasy, and the worst of all, METRIC.

I have everything you can think of when it comes to drilling, tapping, bolting, etc. but not in the wonderful metric assortment. The distances between bolt holes on the rails were metric, the tapped holes in the blocks were metric, and to top it off I had just received that huge piece of 80/20 for the gantry, which was NOT metric.

Oh well, live and learn. Until then, modify!

(Side note -- I have now have a personal relationship with McMaster-Carr. All the hex-head screws, plate support screws and nuts, drive shafts, cable carriers, etc. came from them. If you can't find what you're looking for in their catalog, THEY DON'T MAKE IT.)

I drilled out the rail mounting holes to a little bigger than #10-32 screws to give me some wiggle room. Then I center punched the holes into the Y-axis frames and went about drilling and tapping them to #10-32. I put the rails on, tweaked here and there, and tightened them down.

Laser alignment notwithstanding, the rails are exactly 58" center-to-center according to my trusty Stanley tape measure. How exact? When I put the gantry together and slid it onto the Y-axis linear rails, it never bogged down or slowed while traveling from one end to the other.

I was pretty satisfied with the degree of precision I had so far obtained, considering I eyeballed just about everything I couldn't measure or level. Even my good level would make a millwright cry in shame.

Oh, before I bolted the rails down, I flipped the whole table upside down and drilled and tapped the holes that would hold the plate support rails to the underside of the Y-axis rails.

Now that the linear rails were in place and the gantry was performing as imagined, I started assembling the plate support railes and all the hardware that went along with them.

There's a picture with a closeup of the splice plate I made to hold the #2040 and the #1010 together on each end of the X-axis.

The last picture shows where I mounted the control enclosure on the side of the Y-axis. (Y1 axis, to be exact!) There are four buttons on the front of the control enclosure. Two are for turning all the power on and off. The other two are the e-stop button and the illuminated e-stop reset button.

Excellent build journal and lots of pics. It looks like you were making pretty good time there. Looking forward to seeing a finished product and maybe a set of plans so the rest of us can build one also.

Before I even got started ordering parts for my plasma table, I made sure that the software and hardware were going to be compatible. After all, why slave over the mechanical part if the electrical part won't do a thing?

The motors that I ended up getting were known to work with my software/hardware combination (which will be explained in greater detail in a later post) and seemed to be pretty beefy. The X-axis drive was a NEMA 34 motor, as well as the dual Y-axis drives. The Z-axis drive was a NEMA 23, only because I really didn't need the power on th Z-axis like I probably would on the X- and Y-axis.

The three big motors are all rated right around 1,000oz-in of torque with a 1/2" shaft. The smaller motor I think is about 250oz-in with a 1/4" shaft.

The driveshafts I started with were the cheapest grade steel (ungraded, actually)I could find on McMaster-Carr, in 6' lengths, Acme threaded to 1/2"-10, Rockwell hardness of 60,000psi. They seemed great considering they were about $12 each, but once I actually put them in and started testing the motors the cheapness stuck out. Talk about floppy. I know that drive shafts have a tendency to bow out and flop at high speeds, but this was absurd. And to top it off, they were ever-so-slightly warped when I got them, which translated into massive problems at high speed.

I went back and searched some more and went ahead and spend the $40 each for Grade B7, 125,000psi Acme threaded rods, 6' long, except I went with 1/2"-8. Less turns for more travel = possibly lower top speed needed.

What a difference they made. They even looked better -- smooth silver finish, not looking like they were forged, and straight as an arrow.

The needle bearings are to support the driveshafts. You really can't have the bearings of the shaft of the stepper motors supporting the weight of the driveshafts -- they'll burn up pretty quick. So I took this into consideration when I designed my motor mount brackets. I found some needle bearings that would accept a 1/2" shaft and drilled a hole to keep them in place. Each driveshaft system and motor has a needle bearing support on each end; one at the motor and one at the far end. There is also a 1/2" shaft coupler at the motor to bolt onto the rod.

The trickiest part of building the motor mount brackets was making sure the needle bearings and motor shafts were aligned. I didn't have my driveshafts yet so I found a piece of stainless 1/2" tubing that actually had a pretty tight fit. I slid the tubing into the first needle bearing and then into the shaft coupler. I rotated the bearing plate against the aforementioned 2" angle and tacked it in place.

Now that I think about it, the motors are somewhat clunky looking mounted where they are sticking out to the side. On the other hand, if I had turned them around to face the other way and used a pulley system, they might have been streamlined better with the overall look of the table, but dealing with pulleys and belts was not something I felt like messing with.

Besides, direct drive has less parts to have to fix/tweak/modify later.

I took some more pictures of the details I was describing in the previous post.

The first picture shows the difference in the old 1/2"-10 ungraded rods and the new 1/2"-8 Grade B7 rods. They are a world apart, that's for sure. Lesson learned? Don't skimp on parts if you can afford it. You'll end up paying for it in the long run.

The second picture shows what a typical motor mounting bracket, shaft couple, and needle bearing look like. This one is the X-axis drive system. Space is kind of tight, but I really didn't mind. My TIG torch will fit in just about anywhere I can squeeze it, so welding it up wasn't a problem. The bearing sleeves are also nice because you can take a can of white silicon lubricant and fill up the space between the bearing sleeve and the outer race and not have to worry about it dripping everywhere.

The third picture shows the Y1-axis drive system. That ugly metal tab on the top of the bearing sleeve plate shifts the Y-axis to the positive about 2". I found out later that if I had left it off, X0,Y0 would have put the torch right above my cross brace and eventually it would have to be replaced.

The fourth picture shows (in not very much detail I'm afraid) the drive system for the X-axis carriage with the Z-axis motor. I built the bracket you see for the drive nut but then later I realized I didn't have anywhere to anchor the cable carrier. A lot of custom work went into this table and I can safely say that I am no longer afraid of working with stainless.

My favorite part, considering I'm an electrician.

Before I ordered any parts, I started researching how I would actually control the CNC part of the table. I knew that Windows-based software tends to be pretty expensive (for me, anything more than free is expensive) but it certainly does everything you want it to do, and easily.

I found an interesting piece of software called EMC that runs on Linux, and since I have tons of experience with Linux, this was the best way to go. I had a spare computer so I formatted and installed Ubuntu, then installed EMC. I also found a free 2D CAD program, QCad, and a free CAM program, GCam, and a bunch of other assorted program that I went ahead and installed just in case.

Did I mention they were all free?

Back to the hardware. I went to the EMC site and found a list of assorted hardware that was known to work with EMC, so that's what I picked. It was probably a bit more expensive that the cheap off-the-shelf combination of hardware, but I wanted something that I knew would give me the least problems.

I settled on a controller board and 80V power supply from PMDX, four G201 drives from Gecko Drive, and stepper motors from Keling Inc.

Since I love motor controls, I designed and built the control circuit that would take care of relays, power, limit switches, and the e-stop circuit. A little bit of on-the-fly rewiring and everything worked as planned.

Since I am posting lots of pictures now that may or may not follow along with the attached post, I am going to start giving a brief explanation of what each picture is.

The first picture shows the connector I mounted on the plasma cutter to remotely control the torch. All it consists of are two jumpers between the torch trigger contact and eventually back to a relay on the controller board.

The second picture shows my controller board mounted on the four Gecko drives, and all those are mounted on an aluminum heat sink rail.

The third picture is the 80V power supply from PMDX.

The fourth picture is the front of the controller. Kind of obvious what everything does here...

The fifth picture shows the internals of the control enclosure. the large gray cables across the top are motor cables, the obvious controller board and power supply, the power and e-stop relays, the terminal block and massive toroidal transformer. I added a connector for the parallel cable, and let me tell you, #28 wires suck! The three black cables in the bottom right are controller power (120V), torch remote control, and the switched receptacle for the duct fan.

The sixth picture is the motor disable switch and the manual torch override buttons. The motor disable just tells the controller board to shut the current off to the motors so they can be jogged by hand. The torch override is so I can turn the torch on and off by hand. One button is momentary, the other push-on-push-off.

The interesting thing about the torch override is the way Miller makes their plasma cutters. When you squeeze and hold the trigger, the torch and air turn on for cutting. When you release the trigger, the torch turns off but the air stays on, I assume for cool down or whatever. The air will not turn off until the trigger is jogged, so I added a button to manually jog the air. Eventuall I will get the software to do this.

Of course you should have at least one limit switch per axis, unless you just set your X0,Y0 in the middle of your table, but then you'd really just not be getting the maximum out of your table, right? I've got two typical roller limit switches on the X- and Y-axis, and a tiny micro limit switch on the Z-axis. I set the limits on the X- and Y-axis to be both Minimum and Home, while the Z-axis is just Maximum. In EMC I can set the height of the Z-axis to wherever I want and then click the Z home button and it automatically sets it to zero.

Getting the limit switches mounted in the right place was a little tricky. I had to custom build the brackets and plates that would activate the rollers, but once they were set, they did fine. I also opted to put the X-axis limit actually on the gantry, that way all the limit cables come off the gantry in one bundle.

I found some really slick cable carriers online made by Nylatrac, but they are incredibly expensive and I was pushing the limits of my budget already. So after digging around a while online I found them on McMaster-Carr. Go figure. I bought two 3' lengths, with the Y-axis length being wider due to extra motor and limit cables. Nylatrac and the makers of my plasma torch cable (Thermadyne, incidentally, makes the torches for Miller machines) said the minimum bend radius was 8". Eight inches? I asked are you sure you don't mean diameter? Nope, radius. That meant my carrier would have to have a 16" diameter loop and that was way too big for anything I could have used. So after looking at pictures online of commercial rigs and many home-brew tables, I said to heck with it, I'll make it work, and ordered the biggest radius carrier I could get that would still fit on my table. And it ended up working perfectly.

The first picture is the X-axis limit switch. Note that bracket I had to weld in place to trip the roller.

The second picture is the Y-axis limit switch. Since that picture was taken I had to shift the Y-axis +2", so there is a little piece of steel to push it up.

The third picture shows an up close fo the Z-axis limit. I accidentally ran the sled up into it before I got it wired in and bent the little spring roller so I had to go back and rebend it and then watch more carefully to what I was doing. Live and learn.

The fourth picture is of the Y-axis cable carrier. It has two motor cables, three limit switch cables, and the plasma torch cable. I think they look pretty slick, and they certainly add to the "professional look" of the whole table.

The fifth picture is the X-axis cable carrier. I've seen a lot of people that get a cable carrier long enough to go all the way across the axis, but what for? If you can properly support the cable bundle while it heads for the other end, there's no need to spend the money for that length. So I didn't.

The sixth picture shows the completed Z-axis. I've got a removable plate that the torch clamp sits in (it's actually the clamp ring from the Miller circle and line cutting guide) and the whole thing can be unbolted and removed. If I wanted to make an adapter that held a Dremel or a wood router or even a pen, I could bolt it on right there.

Hey man, great build. Very clean. Sorry to criticize, but one thing you might want to look out for is the needle bearings you're using to support your screws. Needle bearings aren't made to take an axial load... and the motors aren't either. In fact, there is often an appreciable amount of axial slop in steppers, that will translate into errors in motion and/or lead to premature motor failure. 'sides that, looks awesome! Heck of a clean control box too!

Hey man, great build. Very clean. Sorry to criticize, but one thing you might want to look out for is the needle bearings you're using to support your screws. Needle bearings aren't made to take an axial load... and the motors aren't either. In fact, there is often an appreciable amount of axial slop in steppers, that will translate into errors in motion and/or lead to premature motor failure. 'sides that, looks awesome! Heck of a clean control box too!

Stag, thanks for the comment. I hadn't really planned on worrying too much on the slop -- I'm really not doing enough precision work to have it be a big problem as of yet. As for the needle bearings, I guess time will tell. I'll grease them up good and keep an eye out for any problems in the motor bearings.

Hi I noticed you are using EMC. Cool. I use EMC for my plasma cutter as well. What version are you running? I have some tips on getting the most out of your plasma machine with EMC on the wiki page if your interested...

John

Hi I noticed you are using EMC. Cool. I use EMC for my plasma cutter as well. What version are you running? I have some tips on getting the most out of your plasma machine with EMC on the wiki page if your interested...

John

As far as I know, I am using the newest version of EMC that isn't a beta version.

As for your tips on getting the most out of my table with EMC, I am all ears. Tell me where to go, because I am definitely interested.

Looks like a great project. Good work. Keep us posted on your future progress.

As far as I know, I am using the newest version of EMC that isn't a beta version.

As for your tips on getting the most out of my table with EMC, I am all ears. Tell me where to go, because I am definitely interested.

I'm running pre 2.3 trunk which is not to difficult to install. It has some enhancements that improve high speed profiling like we do when using a plasma torch.

I have hooked up a USB joystick to position my plasma torch that works real well.

http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Simple_Remote_Pendant

I use a couple of files outside of my g code one to find the top of the material and one to light off the torch with a pierce delay (if needed). I'll try and remember to post them when I get home. I think that you need pre 2.3 to use them the way I do however you can use them with 2.2.5 in a slightly different manner. You just have to have the lines of the sub in your code. Oh, and you need a floating head or some other means to tell you have touched the material with the torch to take advantage of these.

For simple cuts I wrote a python script to generate the proper g code for arcs. Once you use this a few times if you don't have a cad/cam package on your linux machine you can generate cut lines and arcs pretty fast.

http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Simple_EMC_G-Code_Generators

As I think of more things I'll add them.

Also, http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Plasma

John

Everything works just fine as of now. With the exception of the duct system that will eventually hang underneath the table, it is done. Well, I have been toying around with the idea of swapping out my driveshaft design for rack and pinion, but I'm probably going to hold off.

Here are six more pictures to show you all what I've got going.

The first picture shows just a front view of the table. The control enclosure is on the left, and I've just finished cutting a 26-1/4" circle out of 1/16" stainless for a friend to cover an in-ground grill pit.

The second picture is a shot from the back, showing the x-axis cable carrier.

The third picture shows the limited space in which all my crap sits. I built a rack for the computer so it is off the ground. On the far left is my plasma cutter. The two shipping tubes are what my driveshafts came in and I am keeping them for when I have to disassemble and move the table.

The fourth picture shows a closeup of the top fo the control enclosure where the limit switch cables and the X-axis and Z-axis motor cables plug in.

The fifth picture shows where I've got my monitor sitting, at least until I build a rack for it, too.

The sixth picture shows my duct fans. I'll end up using one in the duct system, and they can really push some air. No idea how many cfm.

So that's about all for now I guess. I'll post more pictures when I do some more to the table.

Thanks for tuning in!

Everything works just fine as of now.

Good to see things are working well for you now!

The exhaust system you are planning should help to keep the work area cleaner.

Thanks for sharing your photos & progress.:)

WT

I got the quote back from a local sheet metal fabrication shop and they want $550 for some 26ga sheet metal, sheared to length and broken into a box. They didn't even have a piece wide enough so I was going to have to seam weld two box halves together anyways.

Crap.

Back to the drawing board. Or at least the scrap yard...

...you must cater to her every whim.

Well not exactly, but the wife (CFO) certainly enjoyed seeing these.

I was sorting through all the pictures I took of my table build process and found a few you all might like to see.

The first picture should give you a better idea of how massive the 80/20 #2040 X-axis gantry is. In fact, 80/20 actually designed their extrusions to have the internal cavities pressurized, if your application requires it.

The second picture shows how much work I had to do to get the Z axis just right. I had to lay out those tiny #6-32 screws to such a tight tolerance that I was afraid I would have to weld the hole closed and start over if I screwed up. Those miniature linear rails are made from hardened steel -- not aluminum like the other rails. I know; I tried to drill one out to have some wiggle room on the alignment. Didn't happen.

The third picture shows an up-close view of the torch holder. If I had to do it again, I'd probably redesign this. There are three tiny allen set screws that hold the torch in place, but when you tighten them up, you are just screwing them down into the torch cup itself, and it isn't very solid -- fiberglass, at best. A better design would be a clamping system with a hinge in the back and one screw in front.

The fourth picture gives you a better idea of my Y-axis drive system. Yeah, I know, give me the lecture and flak about using driveshafts. They wobble at high speeds. I know. I'm pretty much limited to about 120in/min before either the wobble is so bad that the torch wiggles or my stepper motors stall. Eh, I don't care.

The fifth picture is a closeup of the drive system on the X-axis carriage. I love stainless, but man it stays hot long after you've finished welding it. I think I burned my fingers 3 or 4 times on this one bracket before I was done with it.

Before you ask, yes there is slop in the drive nuts when the shafts change direction. I think the nuts travel maybe, at most, about 1/64" or less. On a 1/2"-8 shaft and 200 steps per revolution on the motor, I'm not worried in the least. Maybe if I was cutting very precise parts I would be, but if I demanded that kind of precision I would be using a laser.

Speaking of lasers... my friend has a 150W CO2 laser that's not being used. Maybe that will be an upgrade for my table. =)

Let me know if I can help with any questions or build problems. I'll do my best.

This will probably be my last post unless anyone has questions.

Here's the cost breakdown of the table:

Not counting the plasma cutter, I spent $3,722.27 on parts. That includes everything bolted, welded, drilled, etc.

If you include the plasma cutter, the total is $5,700.79.

I didn't count the cost of the computer because I had one lying around begging to be put to good use. The software isn't counted, well, because 100% of it is free. Ubuntu, EMC, GCam, QCad, XFig, etc. It was all free. Gotta love open source!

There were some incidentals thrown into the budget as well. I bought 10lbs each size 1/16", 3/32" and 1/8" ER70s6 mild steel TIG wire and a magnetic TIG torch holder from WeldingDepot.com.

There were 33 orders for parts with 11 of them being from McMaster-Carr.

The most expensive order was the 4 linear rails.

The cheapest was 4 stepper motor driver current set resistors.

As I said before, 650+ holes drilled, 240+ holes tapped with everything from 1/2"-13 to #4-40, and countless welds.

When I disassemble the entire table when we move I will finish welding the 2" steel tubing together.

Other than that, it cuts great and the software is nice and intuitive for someone like me that doesn't like idiot-proof solutions.

Anyone in this forum that has built their own CNC table, pat yourself on the back. It's a helluva lot of work, but the end result is worth more than anyone could imagine.

Have a good one!

Fantastic build info. I've been browsing for a couple months here for ideas, and I have to say this is one of the simplest, cleanest designs I've seen yet. Very straightforward.

A couple simple questions, if I may -

...so I welded them in pairs. I took B-Line unistrut 4-hole splice places and 4-hole T's and welded them together, then welded them to the ends of the cross braces. After tacking them up and making sure both pairs of braces were the same length, I cut them apart.

Can you explain this a little further? I think I understand what you wrote, but I'm not seeing how this guarantees four equal braces.

Also, what are the specs on your linear rails? It's probably a common part, but I'm not finding the rail+truck sets on mcmaster or ebay; I must be looking in the wrong place...

Thanks-
Ed

From my previous post: ...so I welded them in pairs. I took B-Line unistrut 4-hole splice places and 4-hole T's and welded them together, then welded them to the ends of the cross braces. After tacking them up and making sure both pairs of braces were the same length, I cut them apart.
Can you explain this a little further? I think I understand what you wrote, but I'm not seeing how this guarantees four equal braces.

What I did was for each pair of braces (one pair is the upper and lower brace of one end of the table) I took a 4-hole B-Line unistrut T and a 4-hole B-Line unistrut straight splice plate and welded them end-to-end. So I ended up with a bolt plate that had 3 holes across the top and 5 holes down the middle. I clamped it to my weld table and stood the braces up one at a time and tacked them to the new bolt plate.

Easily put, all I did was cut one hole from the 4-hole straight splice plate and weld it to the end of the 4-hole T. That way the new bolt plates that are on the end of the braces each have a bolt hole on opposite sides of the tubing.

After I tacked the braces to the new plates, I made sure that they were all exactly the same length from the outer edges of the plates to the same on the other end (when I say exactly, I mean as exact as a tape measure can muster) and then I finish welded them. Then I cut the plates apart to have 4 braces - 2 with a single bolt on opposite sides and 2 with a single bolt on three sides. The fourth picture in this post (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=458186&postcount=3) shows the final product. Maybe I got lucky in the assembly, who knows, but after I bolted them together on the table, they put the Y-axis rails within 1/32". Not bad for eyeballing.
Also, what are the specs on your linear rails? It's probably a common part, but I'm not finding the rail+truck sets on mcmaster or ebay; I must be looking in the wrong place...

My linear rails are metric. The blocks are about 2" x 2", and the rails are pretty much 55" long. I don't even think they have a part number or brand. Definitely not NHK. I searched and searched all over the place online and ended up on eBay -- these were the cheapest rails I could find (I just now searched eBay again and couldn't find them) so I pretty much designed my whole table around them. I tried emailing past auction winners to see if they got a good deal but I got no replies back, so I just went for it. They were $150 each, which included 2 blocks each. I had to scrounge to find 32 M6 screws to use in them, too.

McMaster is way too expensive to get rails from. They offer brand new, high-dollar rails that are excellent if you can afford them, but really aren't worth it. Keep searching eBay. It took me almost a month to find and decide on mine.

Thanks - I get it now.

-ed

Quick update on my table.

Since I was having issues with my workflow (i.e. getting something from my head to the computer and then to the table) I decided that a Wacom USB graphics tablet would help out.

And indeed it did. I now will be using Inkscape (free!) with my 6x8 Wacom tablet, which is 100% supported by Ubuntu 6.06. It works right out of the box and I can pretty much draw or trace anything I want to. I kept the old assortment of converters, CAM programs, and gcode utilities just in case, but otherwise I'll be using the tablet.

Thought I'd share.

P.S. I did have to recompile GTK with --with-xinput=xfree to have GIMP and Inkscape be able to use the pressure sensitivity on the tablet.

Very nice build

cheers

Very nice build! I have completed a table with the same idea of making it a muti-use. It's not anywhere as neat as yours. I've got it running the router right now.

I'm working on the plasma portion of my build and I didn't see any noise filtering on your system. Did you install a choke on your torch trigger?

Very nice build! I have completed a table with the same idea of making it a muti-use. It's not anywhere as neat as yours. I've got it running the router right now.

I'm working on the plasma portion of my build and I didn't see any noise filtering on your system. Did you install a choke on your torch trigger?

What kind of noise filtering are you referring to?

My torch gets turned on only by shorting the trigger contacts together via relay on my PMDX mainboard.

I'm referring to ferrite clamp on or dough nut type beads that act as a resistor to RFI entering your system from the plasma start arc through your trigger switch wiring.

I was looking at using the same system of a relay to trigger my torch.

I'm referring to ferrite clamp on or dough nut type beads that act as a resistor to RFI entering your system from the plasma start arc through your trigger switch wiring.

I was looking at using the same system of a relay to trigger my torch.

Never really thought of it. On the other hand, I've not had a problem yet. If I do, I am sure I will research the RFI problem and look for solutions.

Cool,

although I am not to sure how a plasma torch can be cool :-)
Love the way you documented this project with the photos and all, gives me some nice ideas for my next project.

Thanks,

Rob