I have a 1996 VMC3016 with a 10k rpm spindle. We normally don't run over 6k, but we have a job right now that we're streamlining and running at 9600rpm and 90ipm. We're machining 6061 aluminum. The chiller was unhooked since we don't normally turn the rpm's way up(always under 6k). I hooked it up and added RV antifreeze (it was bone dry). Now we're getting this aweful smell. It follows me home too. I don't think I could get the stinch off with gasoline and a brillo pad. I'm wondering if it's the RV coolant or something in the spindle (belts, bearings, anything). Also, I bypassed the ball screw cooling lines. After replacing the thrust bearings last week, I didn't want to do it again any time soon. There are 3 tools that turn at 9600 rpm. For a total spindle time of about 3 minutes (1 min. each). I'm not doing any hogging either. Anyone else have a "B.O." problem?

it is probably the rv anti freeze you are supposed to use dow frost call your dealer to get some and the smell might go away

somebody was telling to use oil in the chiller so if it leaked it would lube the thrust brgs.

dow frost is a heat transfer fluid and you mix 50-50 with distiled water it takes the heat out of the spindle bearings.If it leaks, its a good idea to fix the leak the thrust bearings should be sealed so it would not matter if it was oil, grease or water getting on them.the dow frost will keep the spindle cool.the other thing it might be is the coolant that you are using at that speed and feed you must be getting a lot of heat at your tool and it might be burning the coolant and making the smell.

I was told by a Fadal Service guy that I could add RV Antifreeze instead of DowFrost. He said "Make sure it's RV Antifreeze and not regular auto antifreeze". I read the bottle and it said that it wasn't for Gas or Diesel engines. Whether that makes a difference or not, I don't know. When I first filled it and plugged it in, there were leaks all over. The X, Y & Z axis all leaked. So I unplugged the lines going to the bearing blocks and joined them together with brass compression fittings. Fixed the leak. But I'll bet I lost about a gallon into the coolant tank. So maybe it's the coolant and the RV antifreeze vaporizing while I'm milling?

that could be you could run the spindle without cutting for awhile and see if it stinks or not.

DO NOT EVER USE ANY THING BUT DOWFROST IN THE CHILLER SYSTEM. iF YOU HAVE PUT ANYTHING ELSE IN FLUSH THE SYSTEM completly AND USE DOWFROST!

Neal

How do I go about flushing it? With water or DowFrost?

flush it with water well then fill the system with the Dow Frost mix. Get ALL of the anti-freeze out of it.

Neal

Neal is not kidding.

I'm really suprised you took the chance of operating the machine without the chiller.
That could be an expensive gamble.

Neal, do you think the antifreeze is what's causing my smell?

could be the that the antifreeze that has gotten in your coolant has killed the aerobic bacteria and that putting out the smell. Back to basics – check your coolant by turning on the pump first thing in the morning. If it smells bad… well… there you are. You probably have an anaerobic bacteria growth going on.

Other thoughts are that the anti freeze has eaten the coolant line seals.

And a question. Is your machine spindle and oil mist lub system or sealed bearings? I do not know when they stopped making the oil mist system (a great system btw, they lasted forever if you took care of them) The mist system used a 10 or 20 wt spindle oil (I forget which) it may have soured… though I have never hear of that happening.

Steve

I found out what the aweful smell was. It was the coolant. I changed it out and put fresh coolant in. Helped out a lot!

To clean all the antifreeze from the chiller and the lines as well as clean the gunk that sticks to the hose walls
dissolve ½ cup TSP (Trisodium Phospate) in 2 gallons of hot water and run it through the system for a 1/2 hr.

Then flush it all out of the system. After you have done this add 50/50 Dowfrost and DI water.

This will do the trick.

You can pick up a small box of TSP from the local hardware store usually in the paint department.

Good luck

Brian

I forgot to mention all that. Also I’m not sure were your shop is located but be careful how you dispose of the old coolant. Locally here in Calif. I have seen people do jail time and suffer big fines for dumping coolant in sinks and down drains. Here it can cost you 5 bucks a gal. Plus $75 to $125 lot fee just to dispose of. I’ve boiled in off little at a time and then take the remaining sludge to a local pickup place for motor oil (it’s just about the same thing). A small one man shop can do that, but the bigger places just have to bite the bullet and pay. When I had a bigger small shop I paid $1500 to dispose of 60 gal that had demulsified on me and turned into soft tofu like stuff, (another story))
So take care of your new coolant. Screen and filter it and keep tramp oil off the top by skimming it. And buy a fish tank bubbler to prevent anaerobic bacteria for growing and feeding off the oil and keep the chips out of the bottom of your holding tank. There are some bactericides out there but I’ve always stayed away from them and know nothing about them. Some coolants are less inclined to have this problem. In the past the synthetics were better than the mineral oil base coolants. Now-a-days, I don’t know which are best. Someone out there might have an idea.
Steve

We use Rustlick WS50-50

Use Hangstefers S-500 and you will never Use another water soluble oil. It will not grow bacteria even when covered with tramp oil. It works vantastic in all equipment. Has excellent lubricity in all steels and stainlesses as well as all aluminum alloys. Im NOT a salesman. I have used lots of different coolants over the years, and I tried this coolant 10 yrs ago and never turned back. They also produce a way lube that will not emulsify in the coolant and therfore seperates and skims easier. I have a tank in my shop right now that has not been used in 6 months and is covered with vactra #2 way lube. Absolutely no Odor or slimy bacteria! I pay about $100 per 5 gal and mix it 20:1
Stephen

And buy a fish tank bubbler to prevent anaerobic bacteria for growing and feeding off the oil

Good idea- the anerobic bacteria that cause the smell multiply in the absence of air so the fish tank air system would prevent them growing.

I also skim the tramp oil, but I use the foam from a clean air cabinet (I got stacks of the stuff), I just let it rest on the coolant surface and the tramp oil creeps into all the little holes. Easy peasy.

I found all this out when I changed the coolant on my miller- it hadn't been changed by the last guy for about 3 years(!).

Use Hangstefers S-500 and you will never Use another water soluble oil.Stephen

Where is a good place to get that coolant? I payed $105 for a 5 gal. bucket of Rustlick.

In the Northwest call Application Specialties Inc 1-800-882-0305
They carry Hanstefer products and THE best prices on ALL shop related
products. They Also have an excellent staff of Grinders to meet your grinding
needs! AGAIN im not a salesman, I just have dealt with them for 20yrs and
always get the best deals and priceing from them.

Stephen
Cartesian Machine Works

GET HANGSTERFERS S-500 CF !
IT WILL LAST LONGER THAN THE S-500
NO FUNKY SMELL OF BACTERIA
ALSO GET AQUARIUM PUMP (HIGH VOLUME)
(I GOT DOUBLE PUMPER)
USE ONE OF THOSE LONG AERATOR STRIPS
NOT THE LITTLE DINKY STONE
YOU WILL BE AMAZED AT THE RESULTS
THE COOLANT WORKS GREAT TOO
ITS NOT AS SLIMY CAUSE IT DOES NOT EMULSIFY
THE WAY LUBE AS MUCH AS SOME OTHER COOLANTS
JUST MY OPINION

I like that fish air pump idea, i will have to try it tomorrow, ;).

I used Hagstefers s 500 coolant since russ @starmetal fluids first started selling it way way back when, it was great stuff. there was no comparison at least I thought, last year in talking to Russ he reccomened that I try neosol 400.
best damn coolant around, better than s500, tool life and finish is better and on alum the finish is incredable and it doesnt fog the windows on the machines as much.

The chiller was unhooked since we don't normally turn the rpm's way up(always under 6k). I hooked it up and added RV antifreeze (it was bone dry).
Bone dry. . . . .
The liklehood of some growth from the deteriation/evaporation of the previous cooling medium ]and some scavenging bacteria] are a probaable cause for something funky.
A- have you checked your drawers?[hah!]
B- bacteria and stagnant lubricants are like "ham and eggs"
thorough scrubbing of a coolant containment sump and system[hoses, valves and nozzles included]. Spending a few hours on this will result in a long time reward for reliable, clean cololant for your purpose.
***The Golden Rule Of Lubrication. . . . .* * *
Effective lubrication is the proper application, of the correct type of lubricant, at the time it is needed, in a clean condition. [dod-g-24508A]
Lil sumt'n I learned in the USN.