I was just wondering how long it took you guys to get your kits. I have ordered mine and anxiously awaiting its arrival.

About a week from ordering to receiving the UPS shipping notification. From there it's just a matter of how far from Texas you are.

I got order confirmation on 2-24 and it shipped today. They warned me that it might take two weeks to ship. Looking forward!

Just recieved mine too. I was starting to get alittle worried, I ordered the same day as you Bilinghm. I have already pulled the mill apart and repainted it (red chips where flaking off) cleaned, lubed and planned out for the enclosure. Belt drive will be here Monday and I suspect the kit should be here Wensday or Thursday.

I received my X2 kit today. Pretty impressive. The ball screws look like the fancy ground ones instead of the rolled kind that they are. Very brightly polished. The are extremely smooth running. The preloaded ball nuts are marked Thomson. Now the fun starts!

Received mine today too. I already have the x and y axis installed and moving. I will probably get to the z on friday due to the fact that tomorrow is our anniversary. Both axis run smooth but I hear a slight grinding noise. Almost like I need to grease them up or something. I also had a scary moment when I noticed that the x axis ballscrew was installed backwards so I actually had to use the cardboard tube. I have had bad experinces with little bearings bouncing all over the garage but the tube made it a piece of cake. Lets see some photos of your setup when your done.

Hmmm, on the X axis, it seems that mine is set up for the stepper to be on the right. Was yours' this way too? I wonder if it makes any difference? The Youtube video shows the stepper on the left. I will post pictures soon of my column bracing and the kit installation. I am going to try and get maximum Y travel. I think 4.5" is possible.

Just flip it around with the cardboard tube. It was easy. Otherwise you wont get the full length of travel.

Any advice on tightening the nyloc nut on the end of the shaft to pre-load the bearings? I have a hook spanner that fits the nut, but how do you hold the shaft from turning?

I placed the love joy coupler on the end and inserted the locking bar inbetween the "post" and rested it up against the motor frame. It didnt take much force to tighten them down at all. Infact I tighten one alittle to tight and it wouldnt spin.

I liked you ideal with the endcap but after looking at mine there just isnt enough room for it to fit. I think you will have more room than I do because of your machining of the base. I was able to mount the z axis and move everthing around. Im still learning how to use emc2, but was able to get 70ipm moves but they were short. The y axis could produce those speeds with no problems but the x axis is binding alittle. 50ipm is 100% all the time. Im waiting on delivery of some collets and endmills but I have a tramming problem that I need to get out of the way. My y axis is .007 out of tram and I need to shim put the colum. Have any suggestions on where to shim it up at?

I would check that the column is square to the base. If it is square, then the shimming could be between the two pieces of the head. If the column isn't square, then shimming of the column base plate would probably be appropriate.

I will post pictures soon of my column brace arrangement that really helps with tramming.

Im still trying to get the tramming done but its going slow, well that is becuase I have been playing around with x and y axis. I should update and tell you that I was able to get up to 220 IMP before EMC crashed. At this speed you pretty much press the key and let off and its on the otherside of the table. I can get 170 IPM and Emc doesnt crash. Still very impress especially when the table size is so small.

I have so much to figure out before anything runs. I must finish the mechanical work, fit limit switches, wire up the Keling controller box, and then learn how to operate CAM software. I had been thinking Mach 3, but maybe I should investigate EMC before spending any money.

You should investigate both before you spend the money. You can do a pretty good test with the Mach 3 demo version. And you can run EMC right off the disc. I went with EMC because I like Linux, and I don't anything that can cause me physical harm to be controlled on a machine running anything from Microsoft. :)

I have tried both and a nice feature with emc is the setup wizard that allows you to test each axis and find the right speed and accel. Infact I liked the whole setup process over mach and the hardest part of getting emc up was setting up linux. I was trying to do it with 128mb of ram and it just wasnt cutting it. Bumped it up to 1gig and the sucker flys threw everything. I would also recommend Vcarve if you dont know to much about writing code. It has made it very simple and they have a new product out called 2d that is very affordable. I think I read somewhere that they didnt have ramping in 2d but it is in Vcarve.

One thing that Mach has that Emc doesnt is a huge following and support. But emc is free so cant complain to much..

Ha! I don't even know what I don't know. I've never owned a PC until now. I have a house and office full of Macs. I couldn't even figure out how to use the mouse on a PC: two buttons?! I bought a cheap off-lease HP desktop with 1 gig of ram and a 2.8 mhz processor. Writing code? yikes!

Here is a teaser for you bilinghm. This is being scratched at 100ipm.

http://video.google.com:80/videoplay?docid=-2721860881364665569

Nice vid Regnar. I like to scratch the plastic too. I made a spring loaded graver for doing just that, but I can see that you must have the table dialed in pretty good to do ridgid graving.

The only thing I would suggest about the fusion kit is to drill and tap the spanner nuts to lock them in place once you have the axial tension on your bearings. 6-32 fits nicley. Nylock nuts are not suitable for this type of application. They will loosen with time and cause backlash to creep in.

Paul

Great tip! thanks

The only thing I would suggest about the fusion kit is to drill and tap the spanner nuts to lock them in place once you have the axial tension on your bearings. 6-32 fits nicley. Nylock nuts are not suitable for this type of application. They will loosen with time and cause backlash to creep in.

Paul[/QUOTE]

Regnar,

that is just too cool for words! You made my day. many thanks!

bilinghm


Here is a teaser for you bilinghm. This is being scratched at 100ipm.

http://video.google.com:80/videoplay?docid=-2721860881364665569

Any tips on adjusting the ball nut carrier so that it doesn't bind? Everything moves perfectly until I tighten the allen screw.

I did it just finger tight. Ran it a few times tightened a little more until it did bind and then just backed it off a smudge:)

Im cutting out brackets as we write. Its going really slowly because emc keeps crashing on me. Everything goes fine and then just blank screen and no response. Machine just stops. Its almost like it is hibernating and cant get it back unless I power it down. I guess I have to do some reading to find out whats going on.

I finally engaged my brain! The return circuit on the ballscrew was not pointing straight down. It was at about the 2:00 o'clock position and was causing interference. Rotated it, locked in place, and no problems.

Bill

Well crap! I spent several hours trying to adjust the Y ball screw so that it doesn't bind. Absolutely no luck. I finally decided to test the straightness of the ball screw shaft. Using a dial indicator, I saw .030 of run out! I am contacting CNC Fusion for a solution.

Ouch! .03?! Even on my self machined screws the runout was .003 on my 7x10 minilathe and I've never run a lathe before. I'd definitely get in touch with them. Their website seems like they're pretty good with customer service and .03 is not a precision part IMHO. Can you verify the runout is in the screw and not in the bearing alignment?

BTW what kind of backlash are you all seeing on you CNC Fusion kits? I got down to .0025 with double nut setup (pressing against each other) but couldn't get any better without a larger stepper (370 in/oz right now).

CNC Fusion is sending a replacement ballscrew. They're good folks to deal with.

After doing some reading on the net is seems that one of the steps in the manufacturing of ballscrews is straightening them after they are rolled or ground. I suppose some runout is going to be normal, but not 30 thou!

I measured the runout with the ballscrew in place in the machine, mounted with the bearings preloaded. I don't believe that the bearing alignment could produce the obvious, visible to the naked eye, bend that this shaft has. The alternative would be to remove the ballscrew and test it between centers on the lathe. Since I am removing it to send it back, I will also test it in the lathe.

In terms of backlash, So far my testing has shown really good results. I bought the preloaded ballnuts and the the backlash is less than I am able to measure. When reversing the direction of the ballscrew, smallest turn produces a reading on the indicator. Certainly not zero backlash, but a very small amount.

Ouch! .03?! Even on my self machined screws the runout was .003 on my 7x10 minilathe and I've never run a lathe before. I'd definitely get in touch with them. Their website seems like they're pretty good with customer service and .03 is not a precision part IMHO. Can you verify the runout is in the screw and not in the bearing alignment?

BTW what kind of backlash are you all seeing on you CNC Fusion kits? I got down to .0025 with double nut setup (pressing against each other) but couldn't get any better without a larger stepper (370 in/oz right now).

I dont really have a means of measuring backlash right now, but I can tell you that if I want a 3.500" square cutout I endup with a 3.500" and that is measureing with veneer calipers and a square.

I ended up finding out what was crashing emc2 and it was my fault of course. I somehow set the x axis to do rapids at 360ipm, now I have set for 60ipm and works flawless. Now I have a new problem and that is the set screw for the lovejoy coupler on my y axis will come loose every once in awhile. Do you guys think it would be all right if I used blue locktite? I dont want to use red just incase I need to remove the ballscrew or nut for maintenance.

I will have to say this is my 3rd cnc machine and by far it has out performed all the others and I am happy with the results. My other 2 where homebuilts and althought they get the job done, I was just never really happy. Its going to be another week until I can really start making chips. I have to come up with a way to keep the mess contained. I have cut a few things out and now have aluminum and plexiglass in the carpets of the house. Wife doesnt like shinny carpet. :)

I hear you on the chips - I've been very carefull to contain it to the garage and actaully have 1/2 a 5gal bucket of chips to recycle or melt down into ingots.

Thanks for the commentary on the backlash. My design is similar but I'm still getting more than I want.

I never understood why he went with lovejoy couplers - I've never used any that I'd feel would handle backlash. They were all for power transmission on fans and the like. That said I've used blue on them before and not had a problem. Red is a definite no since you have to heat beyond the carbonization level for it to release and you've got a lot of items that won't really like that... You'll still need to watch as they will loosen with enough vibration but not nearly as quick. I use it on my R/C helicopters (a lot more vibration) on small setscrews and still have to retorque now and then. I haven't managed to strip any setscrews because of the locktite.

Perhaps machining, grinding (or filing) a small flat on the shaft would keep the grub screws tight on the Lovejoy couplers. Certainly Locktite would be appropriate as well.

If your motor is perfectly aligned to the shaft, you can use a solid coupler and get absolutely zero lash. Lovejoys' will allow a little misalignment, and cost less than $10.00.

I hear you on the chips - I've been very carefull to contain it to the garage and actaully have 1/2 a 5gal bucket of chips to recycle or melt down into ingots.

Thanks for the commentary on the backlash. My design is similar but I'm still getting more than I want.

I never understood why he went with lovejoy couplers - I've never used any that I'd feel would handle backlash. They were all for power transmission on fans and the like. That said I've used blue on them before and not had a problem. Red is a definite no since you have to heat beyond the carbonization level for it to release and you've got a lot of items that won't really like that... You'll still need to watch as they will loosen with enough vibration but not nearly as quick. I use it on my R/C helicopters (a lot more vibration) on small setscrews and still have to retorque now and then. I haven't managed to strip any setscrews because of the locktite.

cadmonkey, I think were right about bearing alignment. I measured the ballscrew between centers and it was pretty darn straight, total runout of .001. On the otherhand the fit of the bearings on the end of the shaft was pretty sloppy. I could slide a piece of .004 thick shim stock between the bearing and shaft. Maybe a rolled shim of .002 might fix things. Worth a try.

What do your bearing journal's mic out at? I polished mine to just a hair under 10.00mm (my Mitutoyo Digimatic metric micrometers JUST started to roll to 9.99mm) The bearings are a tight slip fit. The deflection over a 12" or so shaft with .004" journal clearance could be pretty big if the shaft cocks to one side - highly likely that the max runout was the side of the shoulder where the screw had a start.

Glad they're sending you a new screw but I'd check both.

0.004" for a 10mm journal is pretty huge. That's enough to cause binding and worse, shaking at rapid speed.

I doubt you could shim that. If you do, I would like to see pics of how you did it... :)

Paul

The bearings are 6001RS, 12x28x8. The ID is 12mm and the bearing journal is machied to 11.89 mm. This allows the bearing to "rock" on the end of the shaft. I have asked CNC Fusion for the design spec of the machined portion of the ballscrew. No need to send another if this is within their design tolerance!

The bearings are 6001RS, 12x28x8. The ID is 12mm and the bearing journal is machied to 11.89 mm. This allows the bearing to "rock" on the end of the shaft. I have asked CNC Fusion for the design spec of the machined portion of the ballscrew. No need to send another if this is within their design tolerance!

My thoughts exactly. Good luck.

I have heard from CNC Fusion and they have confirmed that the parts are within spec.

The say that their original conversion kits for the X2 were manufactured to very tight tolerances. Their customers had a very difficult time getting everything to work due to manufacturing variations in the X2 mills. Therefore, they went to looser fits so that parts could be "tweaked" into adjustment even on a less than perfect mini mill. However, in my situation, they graciously offered to replace my Y ballscrew with one that is machined to a very tight fit for the bearings. Good guys!

Good to hear they'll tighten it up for you. Only other alternative would've been to take them down more and get a 11 or 10 mm brg with the right OD. Glad it worked out :)

I just ordered my oversize balls to preload my Y axis for my X3 last night. I might actually have an automated mill this weekend! Just need to make the breakout board for the full complement of limits and homes on my new 2nd LPT.

Just a update. I am having all kinds of fun. I finally recieved my collets and endmills and chips are flying everywhere. Its a huge difference between collet and the drill head especially in finish and performance. I am able to take .125 passes @ 10ipm with the spindle set a medium on the higher end. I have yet to actually make anything worth wild. I am thinking of trying to make Arhen's linear bearings this weekend. I will let you guys know how it goes.

Oyeah me and the dog are in the dog house. He came out to the garage and took in just about all the chips that where on the floor. So the enclosure might be in order first.

First real part made today. Its a bracket (well suppose to be) for 10 series 80/20. Only problem is the designer made it to small. But I figured I would show you all.

and this is what it should be.