Well here is a question.

Is there any magic rubber chemical that could be applied to the cable casings to make them less ridgid and more flexiable?

Course the reason they are like this is they are 20 some years old. Iknow this. But short of replaceing them all anyone have any good methods for loosening them up?

Thnaks.

b

From my experience I've found Boss CNC cabling (grey insulation, used for limit switches and servo or stepper drives) to be of the best quality available even by todays standards. Unless there is physical damage, the actual wires within the cable are probably in excellent condition, even though the insulation has become very rigid over time. Don't worry, Just clean it up, retighten the green AMP connectors and leave it, you will be glad you did.

Also be sure to retighten all terminal strip screws in the drive and power enclosure cabinets, and anywhere else you see them.

The outside covering of these cables suffers from exposure to the coolant and oils present.
I just replaced a cable on a VMC1000. It was in a flexible wireway beneath the table. It had cracked and then because it flexed more at the crack, the wires broke there. this is not the first cable to die this way.
The replacement came from EMI and they use urethane exterior cable with very fine stranded wires for a long life of flexing. This cable will not get hard and crack.

George

way back when I used to work on business machines, the printing shop next door had a bottle of what they called 'rubber rejuvenator' that they used on the printing press rolls..
used it on many rubber items, made them quite a bit softer and more flexible, _may_ work on synthetic compounds, but I've never tried it..

a half pint bottle used to cost 3 bucks back then, you should be able to get some from a local print shop and try it on the cable sheaths..

..enjoy..

as a service tec for 20 years, ive never heard of anything....they are not made of rubber. If they are stiff........change them, "Lapp" is the best cable out there.

These look good if you're going to change them.
http://www.cicoil.com/cables/product.asp?idCategoryId=4&idSeriesId=7&idProductId=2

Ger.. Ive seen those cables before while looking into high current cables for work http://www.cablecotech.com/ flat cables are what we ended up using for work.

For the moment I just fixed up the cable restraint on the X axis and will call it good for now. Also am supporting it with some cable ties. Really that is the only axis motor that moves so I'd probably not bother the other ones.

Really sad thing about the cables is the military connectors face down. So if my flood pump motor was in the base and the table was all the way down they will hit eachother which is why they probably look the way they do.

I don't use the flood coolant pump at all (and wish it was equiped with the auto mister) but for now I guess I'll be ok with the way they are.

HOpefully they look good enough that they will not loose connection while the drives are on and cook a drive. That would stink pretty bad as the machine works really good as it is.

b/

if it is real 'rubber' silicone grease is a miracle cure

if it is pvc[likely] it is de plasticizerizeriderized......no hope

Gus, I'm 99% sure the grey cable casing used on installations at least through Boss9 machines are PVC. I don't know about later models.

I'm pretty sure the black caseing of my wires are rubber. Once I get around to it I'll give the silicone grease a try or track down some printing rubber rejuvenator. After re-assembling the military connector I'm a little less concerned over the flex but given time always want to make it as good as possiable.

b/