OK guys.
I am starting to wire by cnc mill. As stated in my initial posts, wiring is not my favorite pasttime. I have a few questions based on this wiring diagram:

http://www.kelinginc.net/KL-4030Wiring.pdf

1. Are the little squiggly lines by the motor anything important like resistors or other scary, exotic electronic devices? If they are something that I need, how do I wire them in?

2. If I am looking at the schematic right, I am going to take eight wires off the motors and hook them up in pairs, correct?

3. I have a funny looking plug on my power supply that obviously does not plug into anything in the kit. I was just going to cut it off and use the bare wires to splice from. OR...I think I can just push a piece of wire into the plug and go off from there. How do I tell which wire is the negative and which is the positive? Multimeter?

4. And just out of curiosity, what size wire should I use to put all of this together? I think Hoss said he used speaker wire a little heavier than the 22 guage that is on the motors.

5. The rest looks fairly simple.

KEEP THIS SIMPLE. LOL. I am electrically illiterate.

Mike

Hey Mike,
1.The squiggly lines are just the coils of the motor.
2.If the wire color codes match the motors from them, it should be pretty easy to wire them up.
A simple multimeter from walmart, radio shack etc, would be good to check that the coils match the wire colors.
3.Can't say what the plug is for without seeing it, but if it has a red(+) and black(-) that's good.
The multimeter could tell whats + and - if not.
I'd cut it off so the wires can be attached to the KL 4030.
4. 22 AWG should be OK seeing that's what the motors have coming out of them, but thicker would be better.
Hoss

Cool. I just went to Menards and bought a multimeter along with a nice book by the same company telling me how to operate it. That should be easy enough...it has pictures. :)

1. Easy beans. No problems there.
2. The colors match and after another search I found someone that posted pictures of his wiring and he has two wires going into one and then into the driver. Another problem down.
3. The plug is not marked. I got my multimeter and after a some study time, I should be able to tell what is what.
4. I got 22 guage wire. I'll give that a try for now.

My plan is to wire up one axis on the work bench and try it out....That way if something should go drastically wrong, I only fry 1/3 of my stuff. :)

Thanks for the help. I'm off to wire.

Mike

OK. I got my X-axis wired up per the diagram link below. I started running through the setup and nothing is happening. A couple of observations:

1. Under the CONFIG Menu, there is a tab called Motor Outputs for setting the Step Pin # and the Dir Pin #. Where does this info come from?

2. On the side of the KL-4030 driver, there are 8 little toggle switches. They are all in the down position. Is this where I set my pins for the above question? If not, what do I do with them? I found this nice picture which does not tell me a lot...in any case, mine does not match any of these lines:

http://www.kelinginc.net/KL-4030.pdf

According to the directions I got from the Keling website, the motors should spin when I play with the sliders. They don't, but I suspect it is something to do with the above.

Hmmm...found more info on this. How many plug ins should I have for the wall outlet? I have one right now. I have the 5v transformer that is wired into the breakout board. But according to another diagram that I found, the power supply should have a plug in. I don't have the power supply plugged in.

Hoss: did you use all eight wires off the motors or just four? I used all eight per the linked drawing below. I think this is correct. That should be wired bipolar parallel.

Anything else that I might have missed?

Thanks
Mike

Here is an update:

I rewired the system per this diagram:
http://www.robertguyser.com/downloads/templates-code-documents-and-other-files/index.php?mosmsg=You+are+trying+to+access+from+a+non-authorized+domain.+%28www.google.com%29

It is the second link down on the page. I got a plug in wired onto the power supply so now I have everything powered up.

I figured out the pin numbers in Mach 3. The numbers correspond to the KL-4030 driver and the breakout board....

I am still trying to figure out the toggle switches on the side of the KL-4030.

I notice that if I have the power off, I can turn the spindle on the motor by hand, but if I have the power on, I cannot turn it. Is this good?

If it would help, I can post a picture of my setup.

Anyone?
Mike

hey Mike,
been busy in the shop or would have responded earlier.
the toggles are to set the amount of microsteps and the amps going to the motors.
With the default "all down" you'll be in full step mode and only .9 amps.
I have mine set to half step mode for the X and Y, but the 1/8 microstepping is a good starting point.
Switch M1=down, M2=down, M3=up is 1/8 microstepping mode.
Will give nice smooth movement.
I have my 282's set at 2.7 amps, M5=up, M6=up, M7=down
check what your motors specs recommend for current/phase.
Power off, spinning free and power on, stiff is exactly right for the motors.
Later Hoss

EUREKA! I GOT IT!

Trust me Hoss, you were a big help even if you did not post. Your website and the postings of your settings in Mach3 caught a couple of things that I missed. I think one of my mistakes was a misunderstanding from the directions from Keling for setting up their motors. Under the "Motor Tuning" tab in the Config menu, I thought sliding the sliders would start the motor. It doesn't. It is only a setting. Once I saved the setting and got back to Mach3 and used the arrow keys, then the motor started turning.

The documentation on this stuff is rather lacking but I got it figured out between your site, a few searches here, and a couple of other websites.

I about wet myself the first time it turned. LOL

Now...I think I will hook up the other two motors to make sure it all works and then I'll mount all of this into a case.

Thanks!
Mike

Hoss,
I just ran down and check the toggle switches. I have my motors (425 oz) wired bipolar parallel which according to Keling is 2.8 amps. I have 2.7 and 3.0 amps on the drivers. I set it at 2.7. Is this correct?
Here is the link to my motor specs:

http://www.kelinginc.net/KL23H286-20-8B.pdf

I still need to figure out the steps setting for the motors. I see you are running 1000 in the motor tuning configuration. That is what I put in for now...

Mike

2.7 is right.
1000 steps would be for .200 pitch ballscrews and the kl4030 in full step mode, all up actually.
If you set the kl4030 to 1/8 microstepping, set the steps per in the motor tuning to 8000.
1/2 step mode = 2000 steps per, etc.
Hoss

2.7 is right.
1000 steps would be for .200 pitch ballscrews and the kl4030 in full step mode, all up actually.
If you set the kl4030 to 1/8 microstepping, set the steps per in the motor tuning to 8000.
1/2 step mode = 2000 steps per, etc.
Hoss

got it! :)
Mike

Hoss,
So what exactly does the "steps" do? Is one better over the other? I'm using 1/8 right now.
Mike

Higher steps per (1/4, 1/8 1/16 etc)will give smoother movement and higher accuracy.
Lower steps per (full step,half step) will give the most torque.
1/4 or 1/8 is a good middle ground.
you'll get good smooth arcs and angles when both axis' are moving together.
Hoss

I have a small problem with my E-stop switch...

It is opposite of what it should be. I need it pushed in for the mill to run and have it out for the stop.

I bought a normally closed. Did I need a normally open?

Mike

go to ports and pins and where is says inputs, scroll down to e stop and where it says "active low" click that box.

go to ports and pins and where is says inputs, scroll down to e stop and where it says "active low" click that box.

Hey! That worked! LOL
Thanks skmetal7
Mike

yay!

I'm starting the actual build of the mill and I have one question so far.

Do I need the torsion bar setup for the mill?

I am running the cncfusion ballscrews and the Keling 425 oz motors.

Mike

Mike -

On my just converted X2 mill, I have the same kit with Keling 425 oz/in on the Z-axis, 270 oz/in on the X & Y. I left the torsion arm on at first but disconnected it after a few days to see if made any difference. None - so I removed it entirely.

- Felix

Ok cool...I wasn't sure if that just helped to even out the forces on the motor in relation to the head....I want to leave it off to clean up the mill a little more. I'm moving all the electronics to a different control panel while I am at it.

Mike

hey all!
just finished my set up also. so for the keiling inc pack 425 oz in motors kl-4030 which alot of people seem to have, same as i, m1 down - m2 down - m3 up - m5 up - m6 up - m7 down will give a 1/8 step resolution with 2.7 A ?

thats the motor pack i'm running, dual gantry style, with 7/16"-8tpi 4-Start lead screws with backlash nuts. can't wait to get it running!

I just got back from vacation so I missed all the questions in this thread, looks like Hoss has done it again with the help!

one thing I will throw out is when you are in the motor tuning screen and you slide and of the bars, vel or accell, you can use the up and down arrow keys on the keyboard to test the settings "BEFORE" clicking save settings and exiting. It aids in tuning the motors. and remember in the motor tuning screen its only the up and down arrow buttons to test with regardless of which axis your tuning. Make sure that you click the save axis settings button before moving to the next axis. And you have to make a change in the slider bars before it will work.

great tip!

ohh and Im going to throw this out there. Having had some experience with the 4030`s i will say this. For the very intensive g-code (I cut waxes for the jewelry industry) I have experienced drift with the 4030`s. my guess was that it they couldnt keep up with the massive g codes I was throwing at them. I have tried everything under the sun to make them work. Eventually moving to the 5060`s solved the problem. For routers with less steps per I hope its not an issue.
just throwing it out there incase you run into the issue, you dont rack your brain trying to solve it, its in the drive themselves.