HI All,

check out the pictures and comment. I am working 8 + 4 hours with 3 hrs travel add on daily to office. I might type much less and post more pictures.

might be - end up with more typing than pics- you never know :)

Also inspired by Hayden's router and the Madvac.

Enjoy

contactirfu,
Your new router project looks great ! Where are you finding the time & resources to work on these routers. I'm very impressed. I e-mailed Hugo and he's testing rev. 00E. cross your fingers and say the right words to the right Gods, I am
Tenmetalman

contactirfu,
Your new router project looks great ! Where are you finding the time & resources to work on these routers. I'm very impressed. I e-mailed Hugo and he's testing rev. 00E. cross your fingers and say the right words to the right Gods, I am
Tenmetalman

Actually I totally drained of energy paul, think i will be on drugs sooner and grow older than others :)

well the time i mentioned in my previous post and the resources, i took up a bank loan for this!

hope all turns up well .........only hoping for the best yet!

Praying yes,

Great built, you are very "devotee", may I know your energy source ?

its looking great. i like how you're using supported rails rather then just the end supports. thats going to make it really precise on the cuts. good job. keep it up.

its looking great. i like how you're using supported rails rather then just the end supports. thats going to make it really precise on the cuts. good job. keep it up.

It will also help me keep the mounting easier and i dont have to probably get the rail mounting either epoxied or machined, though I know it might have helped, i just dont have that sort of metal powder epoxies here.

Just finished mounting the x rail yesterday and got to move it easily. will post a video soon of the rail functioning.

RGDS
Irfan

Hello,

Looks good so far. Have you checked the straitness of the steel you are mounting the supported rail to, comparing the left and right x-axis spans? Also, have you added some weight to the center to of the X-axis span to simulate the gantry weight, checking for deflection. The way it is designed, you could still add a vertical beam under the center point if that is a problem. Looks good though!!

If you need, I could stress that frame for you to see any possible deflection on the cutting bet or linear rails etc. But I don't think it will be a problem, just know our services are here if you need them.

Keep up the good work!

Regards,

Brain,

Thnks for ur response, the square tubes I cut were straight and since after mounting the rails yesterday has given me more confidence inteh bolted type of fitting and I suddenly realised that I am a better metal worker too apart from being just a regular mechanical engineer.

I have levelled teh table to the best of my eye and mounted teh rails and they do work good and flat.

Thanks for offering to stress the frame out for me, but I am in India, so its outta Q!

BTW my DAD and my cousin were a great help in the build. The only pain part in assembling a bolted design is the number of times you have to dis-assemble and re-assemble, its just PIA!

Thanks for all comments

RGDS
Irfan

contactirfu,

No problem. I did mean stress it through software in a digital format of course lol. I too am a mechanical/aerospace engineer.

Keep us posted on your progress!!

Regards

contactirfu,

No problem. I did mean stress it through software in a digital format of course lol. I too am a mechanical/aerospace engineer.

Keep us posted on your progress!!

Regards

We can do that here too!, and I myself dont trust it much. sure will keep all posted! my internet connection at home is all f'd up, need to get it running to post the latest videos and pics.

Chk out the pictures - they speak for themselves, Manjeet thanks for the end blocks man. U rock.

The men in the picture are my DAD and Cousin! they are my helpers on weekends and DAD is a full time help too. DAD organizes most of the stuff while I am away at office. Man DAD's Rock too.

RGDS
Irfan

Finished the gantry almost!

The20mm dia linear slides took quite a while to mount accurately,well it was done finally!

Now need to build the Z axis tomorrow. Hope it comes out well.

Also the y ball screw will be back from repair and end machining soon. I do have a lot to concentrate upon!

Wish me luck guys!

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

Just an update!

Finally satisfied with my Z axis done with tubes . originally planned out of Alu plate but finally done using mild steel tubes.

Do post comments!

RGDS
Irfan

machine is looking real good and strong

Looking good, I like steel routers (have one myself). But I wouldn't call that one small...

Very nice and solid built, will definately give nice cuts. You should/may have some plans on keeping x rails clean while in use.

Hi All,

Thanks for your feed back, here are some videos of the pictures.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S5dVGmrlEM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmPT85_cxec

Yup i do have some plans to keep teh X rails clean, will tell it out only when i do it! bcos may be I have more than one ideas to utilize on the machine.

Also think I should't have called it a small machine - however considering that I will be building a mechmate soon - this is considerably small to that. so no problem there.

RGDS
Irfan

Had the end supports of the ballscrew made and mounted onto the machine for a look,the guy who reconditioned the screw SCREWED it up on the support end.

It was in no way the dia of the bearing and now i need help,i will post some more photos requesting for help.

Meanwhile enjoy these pics.

Hi

Nice machine.

I have suggestion re. improving your cutting torque.

I think a variable height table that can be raised lowered by whatever means achievable would help.

If you cut everything at the height the table is now I think you will find some materials easier to cut than others.

Basically the harder the material, the less you would want to extend your z axis.

That leads me onto the second point..... Given that your X rails are low and your Y rails are high, I would beef up the gantry sides as much as possible.

Clearly there are a few introduced moments in your design and those will be your points of potential flex.

Hope that helps.

Enjoy

Andy

Andy,

I completely agree, i am expecting there to be some flex. But we will know only when we run the router which is probably a month down the road, I will keep you posted on it.

I believe that unless we see a problem there is no need to solve it!, sort of to save some cash.

Andy, alternatively can u just sketch the moments over one of the pictures using paint and post it, would be interesting to see and would help me to decide where i need to beef up!

RGDS
Irfan

Hey,
Just what is the problem. Is the shaft a couple of thousands undersize, .010,
what ? There's allways a workaround.
bigb1ke

Paul, the problem is more, the bearing had a ID of 30 mm and now the shaft turns out to be 28 OD , I donno how that can be compensated!

I have asked him(my vendor) to do the needful without much waste of time and he promised me that he wouldlook at it and decide.

Hope all works out well

Have a good One

CYA

I think the solution lies in intermidiate bush. Hot pressed over shaft and tight fit in bearing. We always do reveting here red hot for super tight fit.
By the way what size and price of that G bolt ?:rainfro:

Hey,
Let me make a bushing with a 1.180 O.D. & a 1.025 I.D. (inch) of Brass of Alu. by the width required. Assemble with loctite (which I can send you) and let bond. the resulting repair will have incredible strengths in both the radial & linear directions and will hold forever. the small space between the shaft, bushing & bearing is required for the loctite. It will take heating to above 400f to disassemble. the radial runout will be very, very small. I have repaired gears to shafts & the bond allowed the gear assembly to work as though it had never had a problem.
Tenmetalman

contactirfu, I screwed up the math. the bushing would have a O.D. of 1.179 & a I.D. of 1.105. all other info is correct.
tenmetalman

contactirfu, I screwed up the math. the bushing would have a O.D. of 1.179 & a I.D. of 1.105. all other info is correct.
tenmetalman

Dont worry Paul,

The vendor is going to takecare of it,it requires more than just a bush, there is a M30 thread in front which wont let the bush pass by, then I will have to have a split bush.

I might as well have a easier fix, let me think first, I will let all know how I did it!

Thanks for the support.

RGDS
Irfan

Andy,

I completely agree, i am expecting there to be some flex. But we will know only when we run the router which is probably a month down the road, I will keep you posted on it.

I believe that unless we see a problem there is no need to solve it!, sort of to save some cash.

Andy, alternatively can u just sketch the moments over one of the pictures using paint and post it, would be interesting to see and would help me to decide where i need to beef up!

RGDS
Irfan

I would just build in an adjustable height table. That will help tremendously.

Andy

Andy,

I will add a framed wooden structure which can be used at different height. posibble two fixed height levels.

Rgds
Irfan

Hi Irfan

A wooden inset table will work fine however I believe it is important to ensure the table has sufficient mass.

If the table is flimsy, vibration could impact your finished product.

Alternatively, a mild steel inset table will have the rigidity with lower mass.


Cheers

Andy

Great looking build... my plans in the future for a 4x4 table build will be all steel construction like yours. I work in a metalfabrication shop running plasma cutter so most all parts will be cut from plate.

Great job will be watching this thread as your build continues....

If you are looking for a build, 4x4 look for Joe's 2007 hybrid cnc on the zone and also look at www.mechmate.com

might be u wanna build from plans, however I got inspired by Hayden and Madvac routers, and crazy me decided to take the challenge and avoid plans, however I am considering a mechmate for its ease of build.

Regards
Irfan

THanks for the mechmate link contractirfu, lots of good plan ideas there. I have a general plan in my mind and will most likely build as I go. I do like the horizontal y rails in the mechmate plans.

Do share ur plan when u start ur build. Its always exciting to see what happens in other person's brain! :D

and whats with the ESAB logo!

I operate a Esab machine at work... two of them actually...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/oakley1975/Plasmacutter_opt.jpg

Not the greatest picture.. So as you can see I have pretty good access to precision cut parts ;) We have a complete machine shop, Drills, milling machines, lathes all cnc, break press, roll ect..... all free for our use after hours...

Oh Man, here I am traveling almost 40 miles daily to get my machining done!

Its great to know that all are not so unlucky as me, What do u wait for . If u have a plan already then start. things fall in place eventually.

Well right now I am on holidays and return back on monday morning. I do have some parts planned to cut next week to start with. I plan to set this up in my 16' x 24' garage but I currently have it rented to a friend who does cabinet work. Will be a couple of months yet. I can assemble some of the smaller parts ie: gantry, z axis ect... in my basement. It will be a few months before I can afford any of the electronics. This will give me time to maybe source out some surplus stores ect.. to see what I can find for motors.

I had intended to build a plasma table a few months ago but seeing as I run one every day I didnt see much need for it. Have considered a router table for some time now and as I got a new 2hp router for christmas that sparked my intrest again.

Will start a project log as soon as I get going on it.

Just figured out a way to make the Makita Router Mount.

The contraption is now holding it strong. Hope it works for me ,do post comments.

RGDS
irfan

Hi All,

Find the pics of router attached to the cnc.

Had it cut a piece of wood board, no vibration what so ever, but a lot of dust.

RGDS
Irfan

Good Afternoon,
Your progress is looking good ! Lots of incentive to get those driver cards assembled & running. Paul

Nice Work done Irfan:) What IPM u got from ur machine... For this type of chinese router , u will get trouble in tool change. Install Jack bolts arrangement, so that u can tight the router lock with bolt and then tool change. Ohhh.. also dont forget to unbolt the locking after tool change:)

The router u r using is very powerful, the same i have it on my machine:) By the way what sort of work u will do with ur router:)

Salamalikum,

The router is a Japanese Makita, I have not yet connected the drives to the router, I am waiting for timing pulleys from my friend Manjeet, and in the meantime building my UHU controller. I am planning V carving and 3 d carving along with plastic machining.

WS
Irfan

Lots of sound from the router any solutions for reducing sound?

Lots of sound from the router any solutions for reducing sound?

Fill hollow areas with something to reduce sound - like chopped rubber tires or dry sand. There are better but more expensive solutions.

Ultimately, you will want an enclosure.

I was referring to the enclosure design.

Seen any one do that - the best and cheapest way of all?

Hi Irfan,
Great looking, good progress.
Harryn is correct, fill those tubes with something like old wool or cotton/rugs and then plug them with wood stopper, as they produce resonance. This should reduce vibrations a lot.
A dust succer is also essential.

Resonance produces vibrations, and my frame has no vibrations what so ever. It is the sound of the router which is the cause for an issue.You will get to know it once u have one....... a high db noise and highly irritating and I am sure neighbors will object, I am already planning to build a enclosure of wood (double layered wood wall) for it.

Ya the sound of router is gr8:(.. But we can't do anything for it we had to bear it:(..i usually put ear plugs:) if u havent then u make a cotton plug and have it:)///
The router may be replace with DC motor with special spindle.

:D

Then I will have to buy ear plugs for all neighbours and the passers by and also bribe the health inspector tolet me run my router......... :D

I will build a enclosure.... thats far better.

RGDS
IRfan

Yeaah, nice going :-)

How thick is the metal of the square tubes ?
And what is the width and height of the square tubes ?
Would be nice to know, for the moment i have to select metal for my own cnc router.

Vroemm.

Well I already know a sound of router,
then u have to put wiper also on watch window :) if no vac.

Building the enclosur is right thing if u have available space:) I run the same router in my room:) I installed insulating tape at my door ends and all opening:) I have minimize the sound about 80% inside my house. And i dont hear the sound of this devel outside my house:)
U will not only facing the sound problem but the increase amount of dust too:( By enclosing the router keep in mind to install a dust collector. I didnt installed yet:)
I will happy to see ur 4th axis setup too:) By the way what IPM u r getting out of ur router:)
Good Luck to u:)

Vroemm,

Tube thickness is 4.6mm CS is 72x72 mm (3inch x 3inch)

Sharma,

Wiper window is a nice idea :D :D

Khalid and Sharma,

Have you guys looked at http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/ and

http://billpentz.com//woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

I am planning to build one of 2HP motor. all calculators available online.

Khalid I haven gone to the extent of mounting the controls on the router yet. So no IPM figures.

Fourth axis will come later but for sure, there's its own market there for it.

For now thats it.

RGDS
Irfan

Vroemm,

Tube thickness is 4.6mm CS is 72x72 mm (3inch x 3inch)



IMHO 3mm is thick enough for the gantry and Z assembly as there is the weight factor to consider.

3mm can be welded by arc welder... any thinner and it will blow or different welding method is required.

4.6mm or thicker for the base frame is fine.

Andy

Hi Andy,

I have tapped a majority of M8 threads on the 4.6mm thk tubes, and M6 taps in 3.2 thk tubes?

do you see any area of concern for the bolting?

RGDS
IRfan

Irfan,
You should also see this very cool DIY vac build of Joe in this link

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9315&st=0

He is also using this idea to build his vac http://billpentz.com//woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

Thanks Sharma I am looking at it.

I just bought a touch screen Industrial computer on ebay for the controls. Its a celeron 1.7GHz computer, hope it works fine.... :) got it cheap for 67USD now for the task of getting it shipped to India.

Hope I will get thru this too.........

RGDS
IRfan

Hi Andy,

I have tapped a majority of M8 threads on the 4.6mm thk tubes, and M6 taps in 3.2 thk tubes?

do you see any area of concern for the bolting?

RGDS
IRfan

Hi Irfan

I was succesful with M6 in 6mm thick Al angle. 3mm is a bit thin at least in Al. Perhaps adding a nut would be better.

If you have a chance to test something for me, I would appreciate it. I would expect that even with no "apparent" vibration, that your hollow tubes are making the router noise even louder - sort of like a pipe organ. If you have a chance, could you please just put some crumbled cloth or similar in the ends of the pipes - I am curious if this reduces the sound at all.

Thanks

Harryn,

I just had a flash Idea, I am going to fill up the welded pipes with saw dust - ie., the wood / MDF dust generated by the router itself. Lets see then what happens.

But this will happenn more later.

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

I have painted my machine and got a MDF 25mm sheet to mount over it. (already mounted it and need to fix it to the table now.

meanwhile cutting the MDF board to size generated so much dust that my linear slide and ballscrew which were near got a good coat of the mdf dust, after wiping them I realized what it was to have a good dust extraction system. i will go and search for a good used blower or just follow the bill pentz plans to build one soon after the machine is dry run for 72 hrs. YUP I plan on running the machine dry for 72 hrs! to test the new UHU high power driver design.

wish me luck guys............. :)

overall i am very pleased and satisfied with what I am achieving and will have dust soon on the table!

RGDS
IRfan

Congratulations My Friend, Take us some pictures
Tenmetal

YA aya pictures.

Since I lost my Hard Drive, I figured out that I have lost my drivers of my camera phone and the drivers of my canon camera, I will post pictures soon once i download and install the proper drivers.

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

Pics of the painted router and the MDF board on the router with the controller cabinet which will house the computer and the UHU servo control cards and everything else.

RGDS
Irfan

The pictures are from my phone camera : CRAPPY BUT OK!

I think a regular shop vacuum would work. there are lots of people using them on their tables.

As far as the dust goes, it is everywhere and that is just a fact of life.

You could get a roll of plastic that is spring loaded and use that as a way to keep dust from falling onto the slides.

Think of a window shade that has a roller spring.

Dave

Dave you and I are on the same thinking levels. great!

I will show what I will do to protect the slides from getting saw dust once I have done with the dry running of the machine, meanwhile my computer cum monitor arrived at Tenmetalman's place and he's gonna shipp it soon to me Hurrah!. The dream is fallin in place!

WOW! I so excited. Lot of work this weekend. only I am waiting timing pulleys from my dear friend Manjeet Singh from North India.

I will possibly wire the controller and test the new UHU boards on the weekend!

Enjoy!

Irfan filling the tubes with sand will help,but not much.All hand held type routers scream at 24000 rpm.It is the cooling fan making most of the noise.If you had variable speed and reduced cutting speed there would be less noise.
Another solution is a spindle router but the cost is high.I am working in a shop with a 10hp spindle and it is so quiet, I don't know if it is on or not.Cutting at 600ipm is a different story,gets noisy,but nowhere near the noise of a hand router.Make some money with what you have and later invest in a spindle.
Larry

Just wanted to share the wiring mess my router is into. Still have not yet received the promised timing pulleys.....I am just worried.

Larry you are right on all accounts. the router may actuallyhurt the business. I have to start first Ithink.

Hope all works out well.

RGDS
Irfan

Just an update on the controller box.

I am hurrying up the wiring so that I can power up the HP UHU with 110v to chk them GOOOOOOOO

Let me know if anyone wants more details!

Regards
Irfan

gr8 irfan:) keep up posting... kahan ghaib hojathay ho yaaar:)

Ary bhai, mai US ja raha hoon, 3 months tak router ka kaam thap pada hoga.

bhut sad situation hai! :(

WS
Irfan.

US bhaee Q???..business k chakar main..and tell me did u made UHU ur self?...What is the price of complete electronics package without stepper motor and power supply:)

On official visit only. YUP I made the UHU myself. well it drives a servo motor and not a stepper. presently the pricing is for 150USD for a high Power driver, u can build the low power version for much cheaper. read the UHU thread complete.

WS
Irfan

150 dollars for all three axis..irfan??? can u post some details?...

No sir,

for each axis 150 not for all. look at this thread
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14217&page=130

rgds
irfan

the circuit looking very complicated...:) good work u done...so u want to drive with servos??...why???

there are certain advantages like

1. no lost steps,
2. Closed loop operation.
3. Faster jog speeds
etc.,

the main reason being I stupidly bought those expensive DC motors and PS. and I wanted to experience the difference in Power. :D

okay..i am using SLA7062 board and i have no lost step at 120IPM...taking the same weight as of ur router:)... the cost of 4 drives almost the same as of your one drive...
My rapid is 150...without lost step..i can increase the IPM by gearing down...

okay..i am using SLA7062 board and i have no lost step at 120IPM...taking the same weight as of ur router:)... the cost of 4 drives almost the same as of your one drive...
My rapid is 150...without lost step..i can increase the IPM by gearing down the stepper motors...

In future i will be diverted to Servos..n u will b my Teacher..USTAD G:) Will U???

Khalid i think u missed the main reason..... read again :)

Dont worry...i didnt miss anything u posted... It will be good for u directly plunging into servo world:)...and you will have goood IPM out of ur machine...

Its great that u built the UHU urself:)... Kreutz is great as he designed it alone:)

There are some great and exceptional people around in the zone, like Kreutz and urself.
who are very humble in what they do!

Cheers to all of them!

:)

Oyeeee.....Me neither great nor exceptional... Please dont compare with Kreutz, Pminmo, Joes, etc...Dont let me high in the sky, if i fell down i will lost everything...hehehe... I did nothing but functioned as a copier...:)

But ur hardwork really impressed me.. n i say u be my Teacher...u didnt replied?:(

I think I am still not upto the standards of being a teacher. Though I can advice on certain topics.

Having been learnt a lot from mistakes and the insatiable need within me to do and see I think I can well advice people not to do mistakes what I did.

when u need advice just ask !

Teacher no! :) I am not yet qualified :D

RGDS
IRfan

Hurrah.. :D

Returing to India this weekend.....will try to finish us this router soon and get it to pay back!

HI All,

Back to pavilion - started working on the wiring and the cable drag chain. Finished installing the cable drag chain today and pulled in the cables within them. felt satisfied today. Have yet to start working on the High Power UHUdrives. feels the work is never ending. I am expecting a busy June at office so there will be lesser updates in June and till July mid. Hope if everything goes as usual then I will have working machine by july end. Still I feel i am overestimating bcos there is so much left to do.

The ann arbour industrial pc had a bad mother board - so thats gone for repair. Once that is back I have to start working on the controller and then there is the software for the g-coding and all- - my god - hope all ends well

The trip to US was a good one for me. I got a good deal on a Fluke multimeter model 87-V for 227 USD and a touchscreen monitor 15" for 117USD. I also got the contour shuttle pro for myself.

Hope everything goes by fast....and there is a happy ending to this :) I know it will be!

BTW I ordered a timing pulley with a 10mm bore and found out that the ball screw shaft was just 0.5mm short at dia 9.55mm! :( ......... any easy way out?

Well thats all for today!
Have a great day ahead.

RGDS
Irfan

HI All,

Today was a hard day - cos I was doing nothing and watching the electrical contractor wire my shop to industrial 3 phase wiring. cost almost 1500USD (includes bribes, contractors cut, material and all)

It was a dumb day and the contractor occupied all the space!

the miss on the diameter pully was much more that just the missed diameter! The tapped hole was incorrectly tapped to M5 and I had bought all M6 grub screws for them. so finally messed that up too!

The fools who make the tiing pulleys do a good job but usually mess up the small details!

Well all said and done I will have good power to my shop. I plan to start making wood dust soon - and there is the dust extractor yet to be done!

RGDS
irfan.

do the dust extractor and pass the plans to all of us:)... IMHO, u have spent a lot of money on ur machine...Its not good for DIY built:(...

Well the intention is to start up a business and a good machine is required to do work relentlesly for amy be 24hrs a day if required. Maybe you are right too. Its a DIY but for business and the money I had to spend for electricity - else there would be lot of problems from the government people on running excess electricity than allotted. and also household electricity is costlier than the commercial supply.

RGDS
Irfan

Irfan:)..pls check the market first...bcos you will have many other factors to consider..Electricity, draftiing, machine maintenance, labours, polishing and painting,software charges etc...

It is very difficult to earn living in this part of world:(

Well ! already into in and no backing off! let us see what happenns I am expecting pretty good business as I alrady know some one who is doing very good in this field here.

dont worry there is no business without rissk and I feel this is a small risk I am taking after all with the money I have invested in the router and all I could have only bought a new car! :)

so no worries as I can still manage without one! :)

RGDS
Irfan

Updated the 1uf 400v film capacitors on the 5000uF electros. Never knew how to hook up proximity switches a few weeks back. but thats to Gerald's web site www.mechmate.com i finished the circuit building for the proximity switches.

the link for understanding proximity switches is here:
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584&page=2

and a few more pictures of electrics nd cables.

Hello,

I joined this forum a long time ago but have never posted anything. This nice design changes that

I'm planning on building a similar machine also inspired by Madvac. I was planning on using the same linear slides as contactirfu.

I was wondering how they preform. And how is havy duty milling with them?

There are some alternate design solutions that I want to use. For instance make the distance from the ballscrew to the gantry smaller so that it is a bit more solid and no possible lever effect.

The second thing I'm going to do is put the ballscrew on top of the lower part of the gantry. By doing this I can put a dust shield over the entire ballscrew. The dust from the mill will fall on the shield instead of on the ballscrew.

Zimforia

Hello,

I joined this forum a long time ago but have never posted anything. This nice design changes that

I'm planning on building a similar machine also inspired by Madvac. I was planning on using the same linear slides as contactirfu.

I was wondering how they preform. And how is havy duty milling with them?

There are some alternate design solutions that I want to use. For instance make the distance from the ballscrew to the gantry smaller so that it is a bit more solid and no possible lever effect.

The second thing I'm going to do is put the ballscrew on top of the lower part of the gantry. By doing this I can put a dust shield over the entire ballscrew. The dust from the mill will fall on the shield instead of on the ballscrew.

Zimforia

Can have a circular dust cover bellow like on this site : look
http://www.bellowsindia.com/products.htm

As always the slides need protection too if you go in for these types. Else use the profiled slides which don't need such sort of protection. the advantage of using these round slides is that your might not need as such a machined surface to mount them on. and still they will be straight enough due to the continuous rail support. thats why I used them and also they cost less. but eventually I would want to go in for the profiled linear slides from hiwin.

I dont yet know the performace of this machine as its still not cutting anything, there were issues with control (servo controller boards) which have been sorted out. There is a dumb issue with my computer controller controlling the machine. Once these things are sorted I am planning to run my machine.

Thats it for now.

An easy solution to dust is to install TOOTH BRUSH touching the lead screw, and install paint brush at linear guides/ slides..

Khalid bhai aap hai kidhar yaar - get disappear often, hwere is the video of your machine.

Tooth brush agreed - but no 100% protection. some dust might always miss the tooth brush, and also the wood dust will take away all the lubrication. so I feel the bellows are the best! a little initial investment and no head aches for life.

so what happening your front?

My second machine is running beyond my expectation...Amazingly getting 80 to 100IPM. Today i cut a name plate for my office...Iinstalled at my office door after sanding and colouring...Every body was amazed to see...

I am very happy with it..I will installed those tooth brushes and paint brushes as i mentioned in above post...My freind Emmkay installed years ago and having no problem with dust..

Hope to see ur machine running...

Irfan your idea of using bellows is better than toothbrush or paint brush, since on mechanical contact brushes bend and wearout leaving a trial of dust inbetween. As you said its looks like a bit of additional investment but its wise to have the equipment safe to prevent hassels later.

HI Vishnu,

thanks for the thumbs up!

it was an eventful day today. Guys remember teh touch screen i bought on ebay....I think it could not sustain the transport to India from US. I initially thought the motherboard had conked, but the LCD too! so major loss there

but on the bright side the celeron 1.7 gigahertz processor is working fine and as I type I am installing win XP on it with a new motherboard. The 256mb memory is good too. and I also used the casing for the new board. hope the serial elo touch screen is atleast ok. Thats my last chance on the ann-arbor touch screen.

All said and done I am looking forward to install mach today the latest lock down version on the new motherboard, and I bought a laptop hard disk too (western digital ) for the new computer with old processor.

hope to fit in one drive and get to chk the wiring and cabling. I got 10 amps rated xlr connectors for the motors. only hope they wont melt away! :)

and wired the proximities and the estop today. see pictures. Overall a very eventful day!

After much work , was able to get the touch screen working on teh new MB with old processor memory and new hdd.

made a mount to accommodate both the comp and monitor together. Tomorrow will try to get a hinged frame ready so that I can hinge out the computer any time I need for any upgrades or otherwise. the touchscreen glass is very sensitive I mean to get damaged so have to take utmost care here.

forgot to take care of the pause feature out here. have to run another wire for that i think..

not a good day today bcos yesterdays late night withthe computer issues got me back pain.

Wors still - chkd out my bank account today and I have just around 200USD left till next month! so there will be no more work on the machine till next month. :(

hope there will be enough next month to finish up the machine!

Pray for me folks!

and ya here are the pictures!

Enjoy!

sure dude,,,u do as u wish soon,,,

Hi All,

this weekend I fried a driver board due to purely my mistake. I connect the power side of the board without connecting the logic P, the result was that the PCB tracks blew as I had not even connected a fuse in between.MY BAD :(

Well I went over and decided to get a panel board to mount all the electrics and electronics.

At present this is what it looks like:

any advices on the electrical front are welcome,

meanwhile I learnt something from Kreutz.

"Please, don't connect the negative (ground) of the power supplies to Mains ground. The encoder cable shield could be connected to mains ground on the motor side only, also the step direction shield (if present) should be connected to the B.O.B. ground on the B.O.B. side only."

Thats all for today

sad to hear about that mishap..It added some more bucks in your expenditure shhet:(...Hope u will get it up soon and we will see a nice viseo of ur machine...So far I fried two modular card purly my mistake...I didn't double check, one of my card only blow when the wires insulation stripped off due to friction in moving and touched the machine body:(...If it was my MDF machine it would not be happen...

Best Regards and always double check..

Hi guys,

tell you what - all the problems I faced - were due to the new Industrial Power I got installed in my shop!

I had taken out a phase and neutral out of the 3 phases and it had only 106v ac on the supply - called up my friend electrical engrr who told me may be a fuse was out and that was the reason for the lack of voltage! have to chk it today and confirm, the motor freewheeling was also the same problem!

The UHU card blowing was also sort of contribution from the same confusion!

hope it works out ok - today

meanwhile I have finished wiring the panels and today will test out the systems - mostly at HP and let all know the consequences!

there are some noise issues n the drive though. and may be not enoough time i had yesterday to chk it!

RGDS
Irfan

Hi folks,

Finally achieved motion on one of the axis and the proof is the video.

I finally configured the UHU and started running at 35V, tomoroow will bump it upto 110v,

hope all will work fine

The problems I faced today were

1. The axis moved only till the error values set on the UHU, so have to see what is the appropriate settings there
2. Need to know how to set up the steps per mm and need to learn to properly use mach.

and folks here is the video

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/0uqUqtxYPKk&hl=en"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/0uqUqtxYPKk&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

enjoy! and do help to set the steps/mm values in mach

Try this formula:

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 334pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=445 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 334pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 16274" width=445><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 18pt" height=24><TD class=xl22 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 334pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 18pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=445 height=24>Steps/Inch=(1 inch/Screw's Lead)*(360/(Deg/step))
The screw's lead is the amount the nut advances in one revolution, not the thread pitch!



This is what I used on my new V-Router
You will have to substitute inch for mm.

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Widgit

Hi Widgit,

I am really honoured to have you posted here - as you can see I really built a crude machine out here,

I am in the same situation as yours ! software configuration has been my weakest!

since mine are DC motors converted to servos, here is what I have, i think the calculations you posted are for steppers, you might want to note down the below if you ever decide on going servo on you V-router!

folks on the UHU thread have been helping me out on this one!

here is what they say:

"
Hi Irfan,
Lets start with the steps/unit:
The UHU reads the encoder in 4X mode so your motor needs 1000 pulses to turn one revolution. One revolution of the motor will turn the screw 1/2 turn which will give you 5mm of travel, right?

So 1000 pulses / 5mm = 200 steps per mm.

Now, the Multiplier setting in the UHU will let you increase the speed (and decrease the resolution) by "adding" the number of pulses specified by the M parameter to each pulse coming from the control software. So if you set the M-parameter to 1 you now have 100 steps / mm and if you set it to 2 you have 66.66666 steps per mm and so on. In your case I'd leave it at 0 since you have such a low resolution encoder.

The E-setting then.... this is the number of encodercounts that the motor is allowed to "be away from" commanded position before the drive errors out. Setting E to 30000 in your case means that the motor is allowed to be as much as 30 revolutions (or 150mm ! ) away from commanded position - really, really bad.....

What to set it to depends on how fast you need to accelerate, how heavy the load is on the motor among other things but in your case I'd say no higher than 25-50 perhaps. (For reference, the Gecko series of drives have this setting locked as 128).

I think you will see that once you raise the powersupply voltage you'll be able to lower the E-setting to a much, much lower setting, 30000 is WAY off.

Hope that helps!
/Henrik.
"

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

I have some Power supply issues which I have posted in a different thread, look at the below link

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=470591#post470591

Just to keep my thread updated with pics of the controller unit and the new mains supply panel board - here are its pictures

RGDS
Irfan

Hi folks today was able to connect powersupply to UHU and the UHU started oscillating, so here is the update at this thread,

if any one can help me out , kindly do so I need help

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60710

RGDS
Irfan

New video - learnig to set mach on the setup!

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great to see that machine working. In the video it looks like the motors are pulsing? a slight stop and go in the movement, just wondering what would cause this?

Joe

Thats exactly what I am worried about and the requirement is to set up error at 3000 counts within the UHU! that makes me more worried!

any solutions

Irfan:)
1- Check if the encoder working right..No scratch mark etc
2- When you move the machine axis..Does it cover the right distance?

3- Check for your ball screw for binding etc.

Irfan:)
1- Check if the encoder working right..No scratch mark etc
2- When you move the machine axis..Does it cover the right distance?

3- Check for your ball screw for binding etc.

Khalid bhai

the encoder is new so no chance of any scratches

it covers the right distance

there is no binding - the motor jerks without the belt!

look at this thread too

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=472665#post472665

RGDS
Irfan

HI ,

I have been trying to get the E stop online and working toward that side. wanted to be safer than sorry! but its taking more time than what I estimated and I am also getting th e proximities set up for limits and home, meanwhile I had to build two more HP UHU's as currently I have only one working.

Last week was quite busy at office, with late nights and long hours. so work on the router got delayed further.

I fixed up the Y- axis motor yesterday and put the new timing belt in. Just completing what I can - when I can. The software tuning parts takes most of the time so kept it for this weekend.

will update once I have more data to share with every one, and yes I made the heatsink clamps with 3mm thk hylam pasted using super glue with nuts in between.

RGDS
Irfan

Had the Y axis motor and belt put up! , and also building the HP UHU's

take a look

Hurrah

achieved 150 IPM on the machine!

but a set back. burned a new HP UHU board, two parts done with.

hope the next will not blow on me

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60710&page=2

here is the video

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RGDS

Irfan

looking great:)... hope u will soon recover the board and trouble shoot the problem

Thanks for the thumbs up Khalid miyan! I will persevere!

Hi guys,

just got some breakthrough today!

the boards seem to need 35V tantalums instead of those 25V rating where they burn off!

more later

RGDS
IRfan

Hi Folks,

today I got the T nut and fixed them on the MDF bed!

they went in easier than I thought! and then I had gone to get some electrical stuff like delay switches etc. today, I had to order the timing pulley for the Z axis with a taper lock hub! amazing how difficult it is to get it here in bangalore and also to convince someone to make a pulley like that!

some pictures below!

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

I plugged in the OMRON 60 second delay switch and set it for around 6 seconds, now I see the wonder of it! once power supply snapped and came in again, it protected any case of burnouts with high power.

well so far soo good.

Today was the day when I had to chk for the working and the deadly "O" value that henrik keeps on discussing.

Well there was the devil hidden there!

I have got "O" values upto 8 sometimes. that makes it bad. i had to to set a conservative value of 3200mm/min for the jog speeds, I found it enough for my first build anyways

the X and Y work great together, now only to get the Z axis redesigned and working.
only thing is that it will probably cost me around 300USD more than originally thought!

going thru all odds now!

RGDS
Irfan

HI redesigned my Z axis - will post pictures of the cad file today.

Hi folks, after deciding that I will reconstruct the Z axis I fiinished designing it and ordered teh complete aluminum required for it, here are the snapshots, pretty straight forward.

The machined parts arrived today : took morning till evening to sove some issues and get it to our place. assembled it on the machine : it looks very nice!

Pretty good..but seems it taking lot of ur x-axis space...How much ur working area right now?

around 32x 42 inch not sure though, have to chk tomorrow

some more pics which I had earlier missed.

Ah folks, today finally I got my Z axis timing pulley with me! I havent seen it yet bcos I am at office - but my boy got it for me and fit it on. Tomorrow I will post more pictures.

It has taken 3 weeks for this to happenn and its been boring for me.

Hope to have the first cuts this weekend!

Have fun guys

RGDS
Irfan

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XXGDtxylumY&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XXGDtxylumY&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

the working router - all three axis - now to get the limits working and the e stop etc.

HI folks,

I did the first cuts today.

was happy, but still have to configure the limits, I have the mini IO board which has inputs which get short when powered on. have to yet find out what i am doing wrong - atleast the E-Stop is working now. wanna thanks Russell and kreutz for the circuits.

RGDS
Irfan

Thats good news long bad news..;)... Hope u will get it running soon...

there it is going on cutting now, the problems on the limits still persist.

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Thats really comes nice:)...Keep posting Irfan

can you post the E stop circuits?


I did the first cuts today.

was happy, but still have to configure the limits, I have the mini IO board which has inputs which get short when powered on. have to yet find out what i am doing wrong - atleast the E-Stop is working now. wanna thanks Russell and kreutz for the circuits.

RGDS
Irfan

HI eloid,

its the same as what epineh (Russell) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22101&page=32

only the pins 3 and 4 of the opto were connected directly to the pins of the BOB - my bob is a mini IO from candcnc.com

HI eloid,

its the same as what epineh (Russell) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22101&page=32

only the pins 3 and 4 of the opto were connected directly to the pins of the BOB - my bob is a mini IO from candcnc.com
I have found the MINI-IO-3 MANUAL REV1 02/06/08 on candcnc website. If I read the manual of the mini IO right, it has opto isolated inputs for the limit switches. You are now switching an opto isolated input with an opto coupler. The opto coupler does not work like an switch, it basically translates an input current into an output current. It is possible that the needed input current for the mini IO is never reached. If the current is big enough you should measure only a small voltage drop ( ~ 1V ) between pin 3 and 4 of the opto coupler if the switch is closed. If your voltage is larger you should increase the current The PC817 can use up to 50 mA. Do you have checked that Pin 3 is connected with the floating ground and Pin 4 goes to the input on the BOB?

Klaus Leiss

Hi Folks and Leiss, thanks for the inputs, the Limiits all of a sudden started working today, and I am assuming that at night they will stop working again.

The reason being due to high electricity consumption in our locality the voltage in the night drops,

and yes Leiss - i did not know that the leads have to be specific for pin 3 and pin 4, I will chk tomorrow and confirm.

RGDS
Irfan