HI All,

check out the pictures and comment. I am working 8 + 4 hours with 3 hrs travel add on daily to office. I might type much less and post more pictures.

might be - end up with more typing than pics- you never know :)

Also inspired by Hayden's router and the Madvac.

Enjoy

contactirfu,
Your new router project looks great ! Where are you finding the time & resources to work on these routers. I'm very impressed. I e-mailed Hugo and he's testing rev. 00E. cross your fingers and say the right words to the right Gods, I am
Tenmetalman

contactirfu,
Your new router project looks great ! Where are you finding the time & resources to work on these routers. I'm very impressed. I e-mailed Hugo and he's testing rev. 00E. cross your fingers and say the right words to the right Gods, I am
Tenmetalman

Actually I totally drained of energy paul, think i will be on drugs sooner and grow older than others :)

well the time i mentioned in my previous post and the resources, i took up a bank loan for this!

hope all turns up well .........only hoping for the best yet!

Praying yes,

Great built, you are very "devotee", may I know your energy source ?

its looking great. i like how you're using supported rails rather then just the end supports. thats going to make it really precise on the cuts. good job. keep it up.

its looking great. i like how you're using supported rails rather then just the end supports. thats going to make it really precise on the cuts. good job. keep it up.

It will also help me keep the mounting easier and i dont have to probably get the rail mounting either epoxied or machined, though I know it might have helped, i just dont have that sort of metal powder epoxies here.

Just finished mounting the x rail yesterday and got to move it easily. will post a video soon of the rail functioning.

RGDS
Irfan

Hello,

Looks good so far. Have you checked the straitness of the steel you are mounting the supported rail to, comparing the left and right x-axis spans? Also, have you added some weight to the center to of the X-axis span to simulate the gantry weight, checking for deflection. The way it is designed, you could still add a vertical beam under the center point if that is a problem. Looks good though!!

If you need, I could stress that frame for you to see any possible deflection on the cutting bet or linear rails etc. But I don't think it will be a problem, just know our services are here if you need them.

Keep up the good work!

Regards,

Brain,

Thnks for ur response, the square tubes I cut were straight and since after mounting the rails yesterday has given me more confidence inteh bolted type of fitting and I suddenly realised that I am a better metal worker too apart from being just a regular mechanical engineer.

I have levelled teh table to the best of my eye and mounted teh rails and they do work good and flat.

Thanks for offering to stress the frame out for me, but I am in India, so its outta Q!

BTW my DAD and my cousin were a great help in the build. The only pain part in assembling a bolted design is the number of times you have to dis-assemble and re-assemble, its just PIA!

Thanks for all comments

RGDS
Irfan

contactirfu,

No problem. I did mean stress it through software in a digital format of course lol. I too am a mechanical/aerospace engineer.

Keep us posted on your progress!!

Regards

contactirfu,

No problem. I did mean stress it through software in a digital format of course lol. I too am a mechanical/aerospace engineer.

Keep us posted on your progress!!

Regards

We can do that here too!, and I myself dont trust it much. sure will keep all posted! my internet connection at home is all f'd up, need to get it running to post the latest videos and pics.

Chk out the pictures - they speak for themselves, Manjeet thanks for the end blocks man. U rock.

The men in the picture are my DAD and Cousin! they are my helpers on weekends and DAD is a full time help too. DAD organizes most of the stuff while I am away at office. Man DAD's Rock too.

RGDS
Irfan

Finished the gantry almost!

The20mm dia linear slides took quite a while to mount accurately,well it was done finally!

Now need to build the Z axis tomorrow. Hope it comes out well.

Also the y ball screw will be back from repair and end machining soon. I do have a lot to concentrate upon!

Wish me luck guys!

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

Just an update!

Finally satisfied with my Z axis done with tubes . originally planned out of Alu plate but finally done using mild steel tubes.

Do post comments!

RGDS
Irfan

machine is looking real good and strong

Looking good, I like steel routers (have one myself). But I wouldn't call that one small...

Very nice and solid built, will definately give nice cuts. You should/may have some plans on keeping x rails clean while in use.

Hi All,

Thanks for your feed back, here are some videos of the pictures.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S5dVGmrlEM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmPT85_cxec

Yup i do have some plans to keep teh X rails clean, will tell it out only when i do it! bcos may be I have more than one ideas to utilize on the machine.

Also think I should't have called it a small machine - however considering that I will be building a mechmate soon - this is considerably small to that. so no problem there.

RGDS
Irfan

Had the end supports of the ballscrew made and mounted onto the machine for a look,the guy who reconditioned the screw SCREWED it up on the support end.

It was in no way the dia of the bearing and now i need help,i will post some more photos requesting for help.

Meanwhile enjoy these pics.

Hi

Nice machine.

I have suggestion re. improving your cutting torque.

I think a variable height table that can be raised lowered by whatever means achievable would help.

If you cut everything at the height the table is now I think you will find some materials easier to cut than others.

Basically the harder the material, the less you would want to extend your z axis.

That leads me onto the second point..... Given that your X rails are low and your Y rails are high, I would beef up the gantry sides as much as possible.

Clearly there are a few introduced moments in your design and those will be your points of potential flex.

Hope that helps.

Enjoy

Andy

Andy,

I completely agree, i am expecting there to be some flex. But we will know only when we run the router which is probably a month down the road, I will keep you posted on it.

I believe that unless we see a problem there is no need to solve it!, sort of to save some cash.

Andy, alternatively can u just sketch the moments over one of the pictures using paint and post it, would be interesting to see and would help me to decide where i need to beef up!

RGDS
Irfan

Hey,
Just what is the problem. Is the shaft a couple of thousands undersize, .010,
what ? There's allways a workaround.
bigb1ke

Paul, the problem is more, the bearing had a ID of 30 mm and now the shaft turns out to be 28 OD , I donno how that can be compensated!

I have asked him(my vendor) to do the needful without much waste of time and he promised me that he wouldlook at it and decide.

Hope all works out well

Have a good One

CYA

I think the solution lies in intermidiate bush. Hot pressed over shaft and tight fit in bearing. We always do reveting here red hot for super tight fit.
By the way what size and price of that G bolt ?:rainfro:

Hey,
Let me make a bushing with a 1.180 O.D. & a 1.025 I.D. (inch) of Brass of Alu. by the width required. Assemble with loctite (which I can send you) and let bond. the resulting repair will have incredible strengths in both the radial & linear directions and will hold forever. the small space between the shaft, bushing & bearing is required for the loctite. It will take heating to above 400f to disassemble. the radial runout will be very, very small. I have repaired gears to shafts & the bond allowed the gear assembly to work as though it had never had a problem.
Tenmetalman

contactirfu, I screwed up the math. the bushing would have a O.D. of 1.179 & a I.D. of 1.105. all other info is correct.
tenmetalman

contactirfu, I screwed up the math. the bushing would have a O.D. of 1.179 & a I.D. of 1.105. all other info is correct.
tenmetalman

Dont worry Paul,

The vendor is going to takecare of it,it requires more than just a bush, there is a M30 thread in front which wont let the bush pass by, then I will have to have a split bush.

I might as well have a easier fix, let me think first, I will let all know how I did it!

Thanks for the support.

RGDS
Irfan

Andy,

I completely agree, i am expecting there to be some flex. But we will know only when we run the router which is probably a month down the road, I will keep you posted on it.

I believe that unless we see a problem there is no need to solve it!, sort of to save some cash.

Andy, alternatively can u just sketch the moments over one of the pictures using paint and post it, would be interesting to see and would help me to decide where i need to beef up!

RGDS
Irfan

I would just build in an adjustable height table. That will help tremendously.

Andy

Andy,

I will add a framed wooden structure which can be used at different height. posibble two fixed height levels.

Rgds
Irfan

Hi Irfan

A wooden inset table will work fine however I believe it is important to ensure the table has sufficient mass.

If the table is flimsy, vibration could impact your finished product.

Alternatively, a mild steel inset table will have the rigidity with lower mass.


Cheers

Andy

Great looking build... my plans in the future for a 4x4 table build will be all steel construction like yours. I work in a metalfabrication shop running plasma cutter so most all parts will be cut from plate.

Great job will be watching this thread as your build continues....

If you are looking for a build, 4x4 look for Joe's 2007 hybrid cnc on the zone and also look at www.mechmate.com

might be u wanna build from plans, however I got inspired by Hayden and Madvac routers, and crazy me decided to take the challenge and avoid plans, however I am considering a mechmate for its ease of build.

Regards
Irfan

THanks for the mechmate link contractirfu, lots of good plan ideas there. I have a general plan in my mind and will most likely build as I go. I do like the horizontal y rails in the mechmate plans.

Do share ur plan when u start ur build. Its always exciting to see what happens in other person's brain! :D

and whats with the ESAB logo!

I operate a Esab machine at work... two of them actually...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/oakley1975/Plasmacutter_opt.jpg

Not the greatest picture.. So as you can see I have pretty good access to precision cut parts ;) We have a complete machine shop, Drills, milling machines, lathes all cnc, break press, roll ect..... all free for our use after hours...

Oh Man, here I am traveling almost 40 miles daily to get my machining done!

Its great to know that all are not so unlucky as me, What do u wait for . If u have a plan already then start. things fall in place eventually.

Well right now I am on holidays and return back on monday morning. I do have some parts planned to cut next week to start with. I plan to set this up in my 16' x 24' garage but I currently have it rented to a friend who does cabinet work. Will be a couple of months yet. I can assemble some of the smaller parts ie: gantry, z axis ect... in my basement. It will be a few months before I can afford any of the electronics. This will give me time to maybe source out some surplus stores ect.. to see what I can find for motors.

I had intended to build a plasma table a few months ago but seeing as I run one every day I didnt see much need for it. Have considered a router table for some time now and as I got a new 2hp router for christmas that sparked my intrest again.

Will start a project log as soon as I get going on it.

Just figured out a way to make the Makita Router Mount.

The contraption is now holding it strong. Hope it works for me ,do post comments.

RGDS
irfan

Hi All,

Find the pics of router attached to the cnc.

Had it cut a piece of wood board, no vibration what so ever, but a lot of dust.

RGDS
Irfan

Good Afternoon,
Your progress is looking good ! Lots of incentive to get those driver cards assembled & running. Paul

Nice Work done Irfan:) What IPM u got from ur machine... For this type of chinese router , u will get trouble in tool change. Install Jack bolts arrangement, so that u can tight the router lock with bolt and then tool change. Ohhh.. also dont forget to unbolt the locking after tool change:)

The router u r using is very powerful, the same i have it on my machine:) By the way what sort of work u will do with ur router:)

Salamalikum,

The router is a Japanese Makita, I have not yet connected the drives to the router, I am waiting for timing pulleys from my friend Manjeet, and in the meantime building my UHU controller. I am planning V carving and 3 d carving along with plastic machining.

WS
Irfan

Lots of sound from the router any solutions for reducing sound?

Lots of sound from the router any solutions for reducing sound?

Fill hollow areas with something to reduce sound - like chopped rubber tires or dry sand. There are better but more expensive solutions.

Ultimately, you will want an enclosure.

I was referring to the enclosure design.

Seen any one do that - the best and cheapest way of all?

Hi Irfan,
Great looking, good progress.
Harryn is correct, fill those tubes with something like old wool or cotton/rugs and then plug them with wood stopper, as they produce resonance. This should reduce vibrations a lot.
A dust succer is also essential.

Resonance produces vibrations, and my frame has no vibrations what so ever. It is the sound of the router which is the cause for an issue.You will get to know it once u have one....... a high db noise and highly irritating and I am sure neighbors will object, I am already planning to build a enclosure of wood (double layered wood wall) for it.

Ya the sound of router is gr8:(.. But we can't do anything for it we had to bear it:(..i usually put ear plugs:) if u havent then u make a cotton plug and have it:)///
The router may be replace with DC motor with special spindle.

:D

Then I will have to buy ear plugs for all neighbours and the passers by and also bribe the health inspector tolet me run my router......... :D

I will build a enclosure.... thats far better.

RGDS
IRfan

Yeaah, nice going :-)

How thick is the metal of the square tubes ?
And what is the width and height of the square tubes ?
Would be nice to know, for the moment i have to select metal for my own cnc router.

Vroemm.

Well I already know a sound of router,
then u have to put wiper also on watch window :) if no vac.

Building the enclosur is right thing if u have available space:) I run the same router in my room:) I installed insulating tape at my door ends and all opening:) I have minimize the sound about 80% inside my house. And i dont hear the sound of this devel outside my house:)
U will not only facing the sound problem but the increase amount of dust too:( By enclosing the router keep in mind to install a dust collector. I didnt installed yet:)
I will happy to see ur 4th axis setup too:) By the way what IPM u r getting out of ur router:)
Good Luck to u:)

Vroemm,

Tube thickness is 4.6mm CS is 72x72 mm (3inch x 3inch)

Sharma,

Wiper window is a nice idea :D :D

Khalid and Sharma,

Have you guys looked at http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/ and

http://billpentz.com//woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

I am planning to build one of 2HP motor. all calculators available online.

Khalid I haven gone to the extent of mounting the controls on the router yet. So no IPM figures.

Fourth axis will come later but for sure, there's its own market there for it.

For now thats it.

RGDS
Irfan

Vroemm,

Tube thickness is 4.6mm CS is 72x72 mm (3inch x 3inch)



IMHO 3mm is thick enough for the gantry and Z assembly as there is the weight factor to consider.

3mm can be welded by arc welder... any thinner and it will blow or different welding method is required.

4.6mm or thicker for the base frame is fine.

Andy

Hi Andy,

I have tapped a majority of M8 threads on the 4.6mm thk tubes, and M6 taps in 3.2 thk tubes?

do you see any area of concern for the bolting?

RGDS
IRfan

Irfan,
You should also see this very cool DIY vac build of Joe in this link

http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9315&st=0

He is also using this idea to build his vac http://billpentz.com//woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm

Thanks Sharma I am looking at it.

I just bought a touch screen Industrial computer on ebay for the controls. Its a celeron 1.7GHz computer, hope it works fine.... :) got it cheap for 67USD now for the task of getting it shipped to India.

Hope I will get thru this too.........

RGDS
IRfan

Hi Andy,

I have tapped a majority of M8 threads on the 4.6mm thk tubes, and M6 taps in 3.2 thk tubes?

do you see any area of concern for the bolting?

RGDS
IRfan

Hi Irfan

I was succesful with M6 in 6mm thick Al angle. 3mm is a bit thin at least in Al. Perhaps adding a nut would be better.

If you have a chance to test something for me, I would appreciate it. I would expect that even with no "apparent" vibration, that your hollow tubes are making the router noise even louder - sort of like a pipe organ. If you have a chance, could you please just put some crumbled cloth or similar in the ends of the pipes - I am curious if this reduces the sound at all.

Thanks

Harryn,

I just had a flash Idea, I am going to fill up the welded pipes with saw dust - ie., the wood / MDF dust generated by the router itself. Lets see then what happens.

But this will happenn more later.

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

I have painted my machine and got a MDF 25mm sheet to mount over it. (already mounted it and need to fix it to the table now.

meanwhile cutting the MDF board to size generated so much dust that my linear slide and ballscrew which were near got a good coat of the mdf dust, after wiping them I realized what it was to have a good dust extraction system. i will go and search for a good used blower or just follow the bill pentz plans to build one soon after the machine is dry run for 72 hrs. YUP I plan on running the machine dry for 72 hrs! to test the new UHU high power driver design.

wish me luck guys............. :)

overall i am very pleased and satisfied with what I am achieving and will have dust soon on the table!

RGDS
IRfan

Congratulations My Friend, Take us some pictures
Tenmetal

YA aya pictures.

Since I lost my Hard Drive, I figured out that I have lost my drivers of my camera phone and the drivers of my canon camera, I will post pictures soon once i download and install the proper drivers.

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

Pics of the painted router and the MDF board on the router with the controller cabinet which will house the computer and the UHU servo control cards and everything else.

RGDS
Irfan

The pictures are from my phone camera : CRAPPY BUT OK!

I think a regular shop vacuum would work. there are lots of people using them on their tables.

As far as the dust goes, it is everywhere and that is just a fact of life.

You could get a roll of plastic that is spring loaded and use that as a way to keep dust from falling onto the slides.

Think of a window shade that has a roller spring.

Dave

Dave you and I are on the same thinking levels. great!

I will show what I will do to protect the slides from getting saw dust once I have done with the dry running of the machine, meanwhile my computer cum monitor arrived at Tenmetalman's place and he's gonna shipp it soon to me Hurrah!. The dream is fallin in place!

WOW! I so excited. Lot of work this weekend. only I am waiting timing pulleys from my dear friend Manjeet Singh from North India.

I will possibly wire the controller and test the new UHU boards on the weekend!

Enjoy!

Irfan filling the tubes with sand will help,but not much.All hand held type routers scream at 24000 rpm.It is the cooling fan making most of the noise.If you had variable speed and reduced cutting speed there would be less noise.
Another solution is a spindle router but the cost is high.I am working in a shop with a 10hp spindle and it is so quiet, I don't know if it is on or not.Cutting at 600ipm is a different story,gets noisy,but nowhere near the noise of a hand router.Make some money with what you have and later invest in a spindle.
Larry

Just wanted to share the wiring mess my router is into. Still have not yet received the promised timing pulleys.....I am just worried.

Larry you are right on all accounts. the router may actuallyhurt the business. I have to start first Ithink.

Hope all works out well.

RGDS
Irfan

Just an update on the controller box.

I am hurrying up the wiring so that I can power up the HP UHU with 110v to chk them GOOOOOOOO

Let me know if anyone wants more details!

Regards
Irfan

gr8 irfan:) keep up posting... kahan ghaib hojathay ho yaaar:)

Ary bhai, mai US ja raha hoon, 3 months tak router ka kaam thap pada hoga.

bhut sad situation hai! :(

WS
Irfan.

US bhaee Q???..business k chakar main..and tell me did u made UHU ur self?...What is the price of complete electronics package without stepper motor and power supply:)

On official visit only. YUP I made the UHU myself. well it drives a servo motor and not a stepper. presently the pricing is for 150USD for a high Power driver, u can build the low power version for much cheaper. read the UHU thread complete.

WS
Irfan

150 dollars for all three axis..irfan??? can u post some details?...

No sir,

for each axis 150 not for all. look at this thread
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14217&page=130

rgds
irfan

the circuit looking very complicated...:) good work u done...so u want to drive with servos??...why???

there are certain advantages like

1. no lost steps,
2. Closed loop operation.
3. Faster jog speeds
etc.,

the main reason being I stupidly bought those expensive DC motors and PS. and I wanted to experience the difference in Power. :D

okay..i am using SLA7062 board and i have no lost step at 120IPM...taking the same weight as of ur router:)... the cost of 4 drives almost the same as of your one drive...
My rapid is 150...without lost step..i can increase the IPM by gearing down...

okay..i am using SLA7062 board and i have no lost step at 120IPM...taking the same weight as of ur router:)... the cost of 4 drives almost the same as of your one drive...
My rapid is 150...without lost step..i can increase the IPM by gearing down the stepper motors...

In future i will be diverted to Servos..n u will b my Teacher..USTAD G:) Will U???

Khalid i think u missed the main reason..... read again :)

Dont worry...i didnt miss anything u posted... It will be good for u directly plunging into servo world:)...and you will have goood IPM out of ur machine...

Its great that u built the UHU urself:)... Kreutz is great as he designed it alone:)

There are some great and exceptional people around in the zone, like Kreutz and urself.
who are very humble in what they do!

Cheers to all of them!

:)

Oyeeee.....Me neither great nor exceptional... Please dont compare with Kreutz, Pminmo, Joes, etc...Dont let me high in the sky, if i fell down i will lost everything...hehehe... I did nothing but functioned as a copier...:)

But ur hardwork really impressed me.. n i say u be my Teacher...u didnt replied?:(

I think I am still not upto the standards of being a teacher. Though I can advice on certain topics.

Having been learnt a lot from mistakes and the insatiable need within me to do and see I think I can well advice people not to do mistakes what I did.

when u need advice just ask !

Teacher no! :) I am not yet qualified :D

RGDS
IRfan

Hurrah.. :D

Returing to India this weekend.....will try to finish us this router soon and get it to pay back!

HI All,

Back to pavilion - started working on the wiring and the cable drag chain. Finished installing the cable drag chain today and pulled in the cables within them. felt satisfied today. Have yet to start working on the High Power UHUdrives. feels the work is never ending. I am expecting a busy June at office so there will be lesser updates in June and till July mid. Hope if everything goes as usual then I will have working machine by july end. Still I feel i am overestimating bcos there is so much left to do.

The ann arbour industrial pc had a bad mother board - so thats gone for repair. Once that is back I have to start working on the controller and then there is the software for the g-coding and all- - my god - hope all ends well

The trip to US was a good one for me. I got a good deal on a Fluke multimeter model 87-V for 227 USD and a touchscreen monitor 15" for 117USD. I also got the contour shuttle pro for myself.

Hope everything goes by fast....and there is a happy ending to this :) I know it will be!

BTW I ordered a timing pulley with a 10mm bore and found out that the ball screw shaft was just 0.5mm short at dia 9.55mm! :( ......... any easy way out?

Well thats all for today!
Have a great day ahead.

RGDS
Irfan

HI All,

Today was a hard day - cos I was doing nothing and watching the electrical contractor wire my shop to industrial 3 phase wiring. cost almost 1500USD (includes bribes, contractors cut, material and all)

It was a dumb day and the contractor occupied all the space!

the miss on the diameter pully was much more that just the missed diameter! The tapped hole was incorrectly tapped to M5 and I had bought all M6 grub screws for them. so finally messed that up too!

The fools who make the tiing pulleys do a good job but usually mess up the small details!

Well all said and done I will have good power to my shop. I plan to start making wood dust soon - and there is the dust extractor yet to be done!

RGDS
irfan.

do the dust extractor and pass the plans to all of us:)... IMHO, u have spent a lot of money on ur machine...Its not good for DIY built:(...

Well the intention is to start up a business and a good machine is required to do work relentlesly for amy be 24hrs a day if required. Maybe you are right too. Its a DIY but for business and the money I had to spend for electricity - else there would be lot of problems from the government people on running excess electricity than allotted. and also household electricity is costlier than the commercial supply.

RGDS
Irfan

Irfan:)..pls check the market first...bcos you will have many other factors to consider..Electricity, draftiing, machine maintenance, labours, polishing and painting,software charges etc...

It is very difficult to earn living in this part of world:(

Well ! already into in and no backing off! let us see what happenns I am expecting pretty good business as I alrady know some one who is doing very good in this field here.

dont worry there is no business without rissk and I feel this is a small risk I am taking after all with the money I have invested in the router and all I could have only bought a new car! :)

so no worries as I can still manage without one! :)

RGDS
Irfan

Updated the 1uf 400v film capacitors on the 5000uF electros. Never knew how to hook up proximity switches a few weeks back. but thats to Gerald's web site www.mechmate.com i finished the circuit building for the proximity switches.

the link for understanding proximity switches is here:
http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584&page=2

and a few more pictures of electrics nd cables.

Hello,

I joined this forum a long time ago but have never posted anything. This nice design changes that

I'm planning on building a similar machine also inspired by Madvac. I was planning on using the same linear slides as contactirfu.

I was wondering how they preform. And how is havy duty milling with them?

There are some alternate design solutions that I want to use. For instance make the distance from the ballscrew to the gantry smaller so that it is a bit more solid and no possible lever effect.

The second thing I'm going to do is put the ballscrew on top of the lower part of the gantry. By doing this I can put a dust shield over the entire ballscrew. The dust from the mill will fall on the shield instead of on the ballscrew.

Zimforia

Hello,

I joined this forum a long time ago but have never posted anything. This nice design changes that

I'm planning on building a similar machine also inspired by Madvac. I was planning on using the same linear slides as contactirfu.

I was wondering how they preform. And how is havy duty milling with them?

There are some alternate design solutions that I want to use. For instance make the distance from the ballscrew to the gantry smaller so that it is a bit more solid and no possible lever effect.

The second thing I'm going to do is put the ballscrew on top of the lower part of the gantry. By doing this I can put a dust shield over the entire ballscrew. The dust from the mill will fall on the shield instead of on the ballscrew.

Zimforia

Can have a circular dust cover bellow like on this site : look
http://www.bellowsindia.com/products.htm

As always the slides need protection too if you go in for these types. Else use the profiled slides which don't need such sort of protection. the advantage of using these round slides is that your might not need as such a machined surface to mount them on. and still they will be straight enough due to the continuous rail support. thats why I used them and also they cost less. but eventually I would want to go in for the profiled linear slides from hiwin.

I dont yet know the performace of this machine as its still not cutting anything, there were issues with control (servo controller boards) which have been sorted out. There is a dumb issue with my computer controller controlling the machine. Once these things are sorted I am planning to run my machine.

Thats it for now.

An easy solution to dust is to install TOOTH BRUSH touching the lead screw, and install paint brush at linear guides/ slides..

Khalid bhai aap hai kidhar yaar - get disappear often, hwere is the video of your machine.

Tooth brush agreed - but no 100% protection. some dust might always miss the tooth brush, and also the wood dust will take away all the lubrication. so I feel the bellows are the best! a little initial investment and no head aches for life.

so what happening your front?

My second machine is running beyond my expectation...Amazingly getting 80 to 100IPM. Today i cut a name plate for my office...Iinstalled at my office door after sanding and colouring...Every body was amazed to see...

I am very happy with it..I will installed those tooth brushes and paint brushes as i mentioned in above post...My freind Emmkay installed years ago and having no problem with dust..

Hope to see ur machine running...

Irfan your idea of using bellows is better than toothbrush or paint brush, since on mechanical contact brushes bend and wearout leaving a trial of dust inbetween. As you said its looks like a bit of additional investment but its wise to have the equipment safe to prevent hassels later.

HI Vishnu,

thanks for the thumbs up!

it was an eventful day today. Guys remember teh touch screen i bought on ebay....I think it could not sustain the transport to India from US. I initially thought the motherboard had conked, but the LCD too! so major loss there

but on the bright side the celeron 1.7 gigahertz processor is working fine and as I type I am installing win XP on it with a new motherboard. The 256mb memory is good too. and I also used the casing for the new board. hope the serial elo touch screen is atleast ok. Thats my last chance on the ann-arbor touch screen.

All said and done I am looking forward to install mach today the latest lock down version on the new motherboard, and I bought a laptop hard disk too (western digital ) for the new computer with old processor.

hope to fit in one drive and get to chk the wiring and cabling. I got 10 amps rated xlr connectors for the motors. only hope they wont melt away! :)

and wired the proximities and the estop today. see pictures. Overall a very eventful day!

After much work , was able to get the touch screen working on teh new MB with old processor memory and new hdd.

made a mount to accommodate both the comp and monitor together. Tomorrow will try to get a hinged frame ready so that I can hinge out the computer any time I need for any upgrades or otherwise. the touchscreen glass is very sensitive I mean to get damaged so have to take utmost care here.

forgot to take care of the pause feature out here. have to run another wire for that i think..

not a good day today bcos yesterdays late night withthe computer issues got me back pain.

Wors still - chkd out my bank account today and I have just around 200USD left till next month! so there will be no more work on the machine till next month. :(

hope there will be enough next month to finish up the machine!

Pray for me folks!

and ya here are the pictures!

Enjoy!

sure dude,,,u do as u wish soon,,,

Hi All,

this weekend I fried a driver board due to purely my mistake. I connect the power side of the board without connecting the logic P, the result was that the PCB tracks blew as I had not even connected a fuse in between.MY BAD :(

Well I went over and decided to get a panel board to mount all the electrics and electronics.

At present this is what it looks like:

any advices on the electrical front are welcome,

meanwhile I learnt something from Kreutz.

"Please, don't connect the negative (ground) of the power supplies to Mains ground. The encoder cable shield could be connected to mains ground on the motor side only, also the step direction shield (if present) should be connected to the B.O.B. ground on the B.O.B. side only."

Thats all for today

sad to hear about that mishap..It added some more bucks in your expenditure shhet:(...Hope u will get it up soon and we will see a nice viseo of ur machine...So far I fried two modular card purly my mistake...I didn't double check, one of my card only blow when the wires insulation stripped off due to friction in moving and touched the machine body:(...If it was my MDF machine it would not be happen...

Best Regards and always double check..

Hi guys,

tell you what - all the problems I faced - were due to the new Industrial Power I got installed in my shop!

I had taken out a phase and neutral out of the 3 phases and it had only 106v ac on the supply - called up my friend electrical engrr who told me may be a fuse was out and that was the reason for the lack of voltage! have to chk it today and confirm, the motor freewheeling was also the same problem!

The UHU card blowing was also sort of contribution from the same confusion!

hope it works out ok - today

meanwhile I have finished wiring the panels and today will test out the systems - mostly at HP and let all know the consequences!

there are some noise issues n the drive though. and may be not enoough time i had yesterday to chk it!

RGDS
Irfan

Hi folks,

Finally achieved motion on one of the axis and the proof is the video.

I finally configured the UHU and started running at 35V, tomoroow will bump it upto 110v,

hope all will work fine

The problems I faced today were

1. The axis moved only till the error values set on the UHU, so have to see what is the appropriate settings there
2. Need to know how to set up the steps per mm and need to learn to properly use mach.

and folks here is the video

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/0uqUqtxYPKk&hl=en"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/0uqUqtxYPKk&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

enjoy! and do help to set the steps/mm values in mach

Try this formula:

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 334pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=445 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 334pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 16274" width=445><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 18pt" height=24><TD class=xl22 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 334pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 18pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=445 height=24>Steps/Inch=(1 inch/Screw's Lead)*(360/(Deg/step))
The screw's lead is the amount the nut advances in one revolution, not the thread pitch!



This is what I used on my new V-Router
You will have to substitute inch for mm.

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Widgit

Hi Widgit,

I am really honoured to have you posted here - as you can see I really built a crude machine out here,

I am in the same situation as yours ! software configuration has been my weakest!

since mine are DC motors converted to servos, here is what I have, i think the calculations you posted are for steppers, you might want to note down the below if you ever decide on going servo on you V-router!

folks on the UHU thread have been helping me out on this one!

here is what they say:

"
Hi Irfan,
Lets start with the steps/unit:
The UHU reads the encoder in 4X mode so your motor needs 1000 pulses to turn one revolution. One revolution of the motor will turn the screw 1/2 turn which will give you 5mm of travel, right?

So 1000 pulses / 5mm = 200 steps per mm.

Now, the Multiplier setting in the UHU will let you increase the speed (and decrease the resolution) by "adding" the number of pulses specified by the M parameter to each pulse coming from the control software. So if you set the M-parameter to 1 you now have 100 steps / mm and if you set it to 2 you have 66.66666 steps per mm and so on. In your case I'd leave it at 0 since you have such a low resolution encoder.

The E-setting then.... this is the number of encodercounts that the motor is allowed to "be away from" commanded position before the drive errors out. Setting E to 30000 in your case means that the motor is allowed to be as much as 30 revolutions (or 150mm ! ) away from commanded position - really, really bad.....

What to set it to depends on how fast you need to accelerate, how heavy the load is on the motor among other things but in your case I'd say no higher than 25-50 perhaps. (For reference, the Gecko series of drives have this setting locked as 128).

I think you will see that once you raise the powersupply voltage you'll be able to lower the E-setting to a much, much lower setting, 30000 is WAY off.

Hope that helps!
/Henrik.
"

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

I have some Power supply issues which I have posted in a different thread, look at the below link

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=470591#post470591

Just to keep my thread updated with pics of the controller unit and the new mains supply panel board - here are its pictures

RGDS
Irfan

Hi folks today was able to connect powersupply to UHU and the UHU started oscillating, so here is the update at this thread,

if any one can help me out , kindly do so I need help

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60710

RGDS
Irfan

New video - learnig to set mach on the setup!

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great to see that machine working. In the video it looks like the motors are pulsing? a slight stop and go in the movement, just wondering what would cause this?

Joe

Thats exactly what I am worried about and the requirement is to set up error at 3000 counts within the UHU! that makes me more worried!

any solutions

Irfan:)
1- Check if the encoder working right..No scratch mark etc
2- When you move the machine axis..Does it cover the right distance?

3- Check for your ball screw for binding etc.

Irfan:)
1- Check if the encoder working right..No scratch mark etc
2- When you move the machine axis..Does it cover the right distance?

3- Check for your ball screw for binding etc.

Khalid bhai

the encoder is new so no chance of any scratches

it covers the right distance

there is no binding - the motor jerks without the belt!

look at this thread too

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=472665#post472665

RGDS
Irfan

HI ,

I have been trying to get the E stop online and working toward that side. wanted to be safer than sorry! but its taking more time than what I estimated and I am also getting th e proximities set up for limits and home, meanwhile I had to build two more HP UHU's as currently I have only one working.

Last week was quite busy at office, with late nights and long hours. so work on the router got delayed further.

I fixed up the Y- axis motor yesterday and put the new timing belt in. Just completing what I can - when I can. The software tuning parts takes most of the time so kept it for this weekend.

will update once I have more data to share with every one, and yes I made the heatsink clamps with 3mm thk hylam pasted using super glue with nuts in between.

RGDS
Irfan

Had the Y axis motor and belt put up! , and also building the HP UHU's

take a look

Hurrah

achieved 150 IPM on the machine!

but a set back. burned a new HP UHU board, two parts done with.

hope the next will not blow on me

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60710&page=2

here is the video

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RGDS

Irfan

looking great:)... hope u will soon recover the board and trouble shoot the problem

Thanks for the thumbs up Khalid miyan! I will persevere!

Hi guys,

just got some breakthrough today!

the boards seem to need 35V tantalums instead of those 25V rating where they burn off!

more later

RGDS
IRfan

Hi Folks,

today I got the T nut and fixed them on the MDF bed!

they went in easier than I thought! and then I had gone to get some electrical stuff like delay switches etc. today, I had to order the timing pulley for the Z axis with a taper lock hub! amazing how difficult it is to get it here in bangalore and also to convince someone to make a pulley like that!

some pictures below!

RGDS
Irfan

Hi All,

I plugged in the OMRON 60 second delay switch and set it for around 6 seconds, now I see the wonder of it! once power supply snapped and came in again, it protected any case of burnouts with high power.

well so far soo good.

Today was the day when I had to chk for the working and the deadly "O" value that henrik keeps on discussing.

Well there was the devil hidden there!

I have got "O" values upto 8 sometimes. that makes it bad. i had to to set a conservative value of 3200mm/min for the jog speeds, I found it enough for my first build anyways

the X and Y work great together, now only to get the Z axis redesigned and working.
only thing is that it will probably cost me around 300USD more than originally thought!

going thru all odds now!

RGDS
Irfan

HI redesigned my Z axis - will post pictures of the cad file today.

Hi folks, after deciding that I will reconstruct the Z axis I fiinished designing it and ordered teh complete aluminum required for it, here are the snapshots, pretty straight forward.

The machined parts arrived today : took morning till evening to sove some issues and get it to our place. assembled it on the machine : it looks very nice!

Pretty good..but seems it taking lot of ur x-axis space...How much ur working area right now?

around 32x 42 inch not sure though, have to chk tomorrow

some more pics which I had earlier missed.

Ah folks, today finally I got my Z axis timing pulley with me! I havent seen it yet bcos I am at office - but my boy got it for me and fit it on. Tomorrow I will post more pictures.

It has taken 3 weeks for this to happenn and its been boring for me.

Hope to have the first cuts this weekend!

Have fun guys

RGDS
Irfan

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the working router - all three axis - now to get the limits working and the e stop etc.

HI folks,

I did the first cuts today.

was happy, but still have to configure the limits, I have the mini IO board which has inputs which get short when powered on. have to yet find out what i am doing wrong - atleast the E-Stop is working now. wanna thanks Russell and kreutz for the circuits.

RGDS
Irfan

Thats good news long bad news..;)... Hope u will get it running soon...

there it is going on cutting now, the problems on the limits still persist.

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Thats really comes nice:)...Keep posting Irfan

can you post the E stop circuits?


I did the first cuts today.

was happy, but still have to configure the limits, I have the mini IO board which has inputs which get short when powered on. have to yet find out what i am doing wrong - atleast the E-Stop is working now. wanna thanks Russell and kreutz for the circuits.

RGDS
Irfan

HI eloid,

its the same as what epineh (Russell) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22101&page=32

only the pins 3 and 4 of the opto were connected directly to the pins of the BOB - my bob is a mini IO from candcnc.com

HI eloid,

its the same as what epineh (Russell) http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22101&page=32

only the pins 3 and 4 of the opto were connected directly to the pins of the BOB - my bob is a mini IO from candcnc.com
I have found the MINI-IO-3 MANUAL REV1 02/06/08 on candcnc website. If I read the manual of the mini IO right, it has opto isolated inputs for the limit switches. You are now switching an opto isolated input with an opto coupler. The opto coupler does not work like an switch, it basically translates an input current into an output current. It is possible that the needed input current for the mini IO is never reached. If the current is big enough you should measure only a small voltage drop ( ~ 1V ) between pin 3 and 4 of the opto coupler if the switch is closed. If your voltage is larger you should increase the current The PC817 can use up to 50 mA. Do you have checked that Pin 3 is connected with the floating ground and Pin 4 goes to the input on the BOB?

Klaus Leiss

Hi Folks and Leiss, thanks for the inputs, the Limiits all of a sudden started working today, and I am assuming that at night they will stop working again.

The reason being due to high electricity consumption in our locality the voltage in the night drops,

and yes Leiss - i did not know that the leads have to be specific for pin 3 and pin 4, I will chk tomorrow and confirm.

RGDS
Irfan

Hi Folks,

Here is a new problem : see video and Q below the video

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The router is not cutting sharp corners,

and the entry and exit of the bit into the pocket is not alright.

I have seen the simulation in the software I programmed it and its perfect, I am assuming it is a problem with the Accln and velocity setting.

can anyone Help?

RGDS
IRfan

My settings in mach for motor tuning are

x - 409steps/mm 20 Accln Velocity 3200mm/min
y - 300steps/mm 50 Accln Velocity 3500mm/min
z - 400steps/mm 50 Accln Velocity 2200mm/min

Corner rounding is usually due to motor tuning issues. You need to get the accel setting as high as possible in relation to the velocity setting without loosing steps. Mach looks ahead, if you are cutting a right angle one axis decelerates into the corner, the other accelerates out. If the acceleration is low then you will see this as a rounded corner.

Haydn

Thanks Hayden, I lowered the Accln as the Y -axis the longest one was giving me jerks, think I have to lubricate those linear slides.

OK here is one new problem faced :

I have set the accln setting in mach to 200 on all drives and a velocity of 3000mm/min,

I am very satisfied on how the machine is responding. But there is a catch, the drives error out when I pause the program, this does not help. I am assuming this is due to the low error setting on the drives (30) at present. I am going to set it to 60 or 100.

I believe Gecko has it set to 128 or similar, so I should be good at 60 to 100 I think. I am extremely satisfied about the torque and how the machine performs, just WOW!,

and yes I started using a general puprose Lithium based grease on all slides and ball screws and that helps a lot!

RGDS
Irfan

Turn the CV mode off and remove G64 if present in Gcode file and try the work piece

where in Mach is the CV mode - can you post a snapshot Khalid.

I am having problems, any one have solutions?

look here

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=500412&postcount=62

RGDS
Irfan

It sounds like ground noise of some sort, this can be a real pain to find.

Check your shielding to the encoders, only ground them on one side, I ground mine on the drive side and leave the encoder side floating.

I had trouble with the router introducing noise at one stage, try plugging it into a different power circuit if you can.

I hope you find the problem, you have put in too much effort for it not to work now, it will probably end up being something very small, broken ground to a BOB or something silly like that.

You have kept the grounds seperate where you have used optoisolators ?

Good Luck !

Russell.

The BOB has taken care of keeping the grounds seperate Russell, if you meant the ones I have used for the E stop and limits then yes, I have the grounds separated.

Aaagrh, its so frustrating!

I am off to do more tests.

Wish me luck folks

RGDS
Irfan

hi folks we were able to get the zero on the over-runs, now I decided that I had to reduce the table height and strengthen the table as at high accln and decln rates the machine shuddered.- I have already dismantled the machine and done the changes. will post the pictures soon.

RGDS
Irfan

Irfan, you are well ahead of me in knowledge about electronics, but I have suffered from grounding and other noise as well, so I will post these suggestions anyway.

Sometimes, we are so close to the tree that we cannot see its leaves.

Grounding out RF and other noise
- The grounds need to be braided wire, not solid wire. RF noise just laughs at solid wire
- RF travels on the wire surface, not much of the depth, so you need a lot of wire surface area
- The grounding rod that you drive into the earth needs to be well connected to the earth. Usually around 2 meters or more deep.
- Some people will put water around the grounding rod to increase the connection to the earth

Sometimes, you can isolate out rf noise using a fine wire mesh cover. I think this is called a faraday cage.

Electrical Power Quality
- It might surprise you that many parts of the US have rather poor electrical power quality (from an RF viewpoint)
- On a hot day, the wires can get hot, sag, and the connections on the wire poles degrade
- If your neighbor and you are fed by the same transformer, then you also share his electrical noise. Maybe they have some kind of machine which makes spikes in the power.

These spikes can be very short - almost takes a very good meter to see them, but computers don't like them.

Sometimes, putting the machine on a battery powered power supply (just the electronics) will help.

Good Luck

Grounding out RF and other noise
- The grounds need to be braided wire, not solid wire. RF noise just laughs at solid wire

The encoder cable is a automotion rated Lapp cable with braided insulation.


- RF travels on the wire surface, not much of the depth, so you need a lot of wire surface area

I think I have plenty of surface area over the signal cables.

- The grounding rod that you drive into the earth needs to be well connected to the earth. Usually around 2 meters or more deep.

The grounding set up is a GI pipe of 2 inch dia and 6ft in length, It has two copper flats each about 2.5ft in lenth and have copper wire wound over the pipe, the whole pipe was immersed in a pit of 1.5x1.5 ft , with a alternative layer of salt and charcoal, it is watered monthly to keep the conduction alive.

- Some people will put water around the grounding rod to increase the connection to the earth

Sometimes, you can isolate out rf noise using a fine wire mesh cover. I think this is called a faraday cage.

The whole controller cabinet is metal,

Electrical Power Quality
- It might surprise you that many parts of the US have rather poor electrical power quality (from an RF viewpoint)

Yup, its same all over the world :)

- On a hot day, the wires can get hot, sag, and the connections on the wire poles degrade
- If your neighbor and you are fed by the same transformer, then you also share his electrical noise. Maybe they have some kind of machine which makes spikes in the power.

Yup I was thinking of using a 1:1 double insulated - seperately ground transformer for the controls - but again the expenses are so much - adding the additional transformer does not make sense till we pin point the overrun cause.

These spikes can be very short - almost takes a very good meter to see them, but computers don't like them.

i have the controller computer operating on a UPS so thats taken care of.

Sometimes, putting the machine on a battery powered power supply (just the electronics) will help.

out of Q, i dont have enough batteries, the motors operate at 110V.

Harryn, thanks for your inputs,

The viewing on my thread went upto 19K but I hardly get responses. It good to see a few detailed ones. :)

RGDS
Irfan

just a few promised pictures, tomorrow i will take more of the finished stuff.

the router looks real small now and I have enough space to add the mechmate.

RGDS

Harryn, thanks for your inputs,

The viewing on my thread went upto 19K but I hardly get responses. It good to see a few detailed ones. :)

RGDS
Irfan


Irfan,

It's hard to make comments or critiques when you are doing such a good job without viewers getting involved. It's probably not from lack of interest that you don't get so many replies. People are watching, and will provide help when you need actually it. :) They've been there for me so far, and I try to entertain them while watching.

CarveOne

Folks I need help,

I have reduced my table height and made it stronger with better sized piping, but still I have jerks during cuts, the table vibrates, is this normal or what?

the cut speed is 100IPM. I want to have a system able to do that much without vibrations but still it happens, i have vibration pads / rubber foots , but still have the vibrations.

The only way I can reduce it to reduce the accln on the motor tuning. My system in configured in metric and the setting on the accln is 150 ( is that mm/s-sq),

If I get it down to 100 - then it feels better - but even then at rapids it shudders, I have greased the linear slides using a lithium based grease - and it felt better - but just felt better - the problem persists.

Any ideas where to look at?

RGDS
IRfan

Yes.. Reduce the acceleration.. Your gentary can't take that much inertia to hold... Decreasing the G's will result in decrease vibrations.. You can increase 200 IPM and reduce the acceleration to 60... and test..

Irrelevant to post here, but deleting all of my temporary files and cache.. When I pressed 'Todays Post' I am not seeing updated new posts.. Whats happening... The same good in my Office PC... I uninstalled my FireFox and install it again but the posts are still of last days i seen...

In internet explorer when I press 'Todays Post' button , a dialogue box appears to save 'search.php'..??? why..

Irfan please post this topic as a new thread and help me to get updated post...Please

i am worried if I get rounded corners, lemme chk tomorrow. meanwhile I cant go more that 3500mm/min at 25KHz and thats seems to be a comfortable speed.

Khalid thanks for the number though."60"

kindly mail me the flower vectors Khalid.

RGDS
Irfan

First solve my above problem;)..I am sticked to ur 'thread' only:(..

clearly I did not understand your problem?

here are the pics of the shortened machine - looks a lot better, comments are welcome.

any replies to my earlier post about the accln settings are also welcome.

RGDS
Irfan

Hi,

I plan on using some 5mm sheets as gussets to get more stability to my machine - see image where I want those gussetts, does anybody think its worth the effort?

RGDS
IRfan

This may help you a little;) But I see a large weight of your moving Gantry;) This may always make high G-forces (Inertial Forces) in small G-code movement (i.e. V-carving, complex 3D, or Circles/arcs with small segments etc)... and this will create high vibrations in the complete system...

This is the reason we use CV mode (but not good where u need high accuracy, good for wood work), and If you want to get red of those vibrations then get the low cost CNCBRAIN, that having S-curve parameters for acceleration/decelleration (and many other great features that u can never imagine for such a cheap price), give you smooth transitional movements..

For High acceleration and decelaration and high IPM, the commercial router having same functionality of S-curve belt in there own controller software..

But as u are using Mach3, so we can't goes with very high acceleration values, Check the MachQuantum that having a JERK parameters within it.. You have to set the JERK value and it will work for you...This may somewhat solve ur problem..

By the way now ur machine become smart...
Regards

Why not you bolt it down to the ground?

WOW khalid still awake, man you should be with your kid and making him sleep, is your wife with your inlaws and thats why you are free :)

well well well............I will try using CV mode - u have immense knowledge Khalid,

some how I am sure I will solve this - just pray for me!

jerk parameter in quantum, can you post me a snapshot of that?

Thanks a lot for sailing along Khalid appreciate it !

RGDS
Irfan

Why not you bolt it down to the ground?


lot of people giving me same idea! , I am worried because it is a leased accommodation, and if I have to vacate then there will be too much to spend for changes.

well I will keep that as the last resort.

RGDS
Irfan

Here is the snapshot..In my Quantum... Going to sleep.. Just was making drawings for my 4th axis work.. Search for Rawl Bolts..this may probably solve ur problem:)

TC and wish u best luck

Khattak

Hi started cutting out wooden (ply) flanges for the cyclone, it will be a 18 inch dia cyclone. pretty nice cuts.

RGDS
Irfan

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Hi IRfu,

That really beautiful, nice cuts. But thats a lot of Sound as you mentioned and double due to small Floor Size. No wonder why you wanted the spindle so fast. We will be fast.

Vishnu

Irfan, Nice cut;).. what are u planning for, can u share ur ideas;)
Vishnu.. unfortunatly we have no VFD on this type of router, so can't vary the speed..so noise is the big problem:(

Khalid the idea for the cyclone came from here

http://www.ablett.jp/workshop/cyclone2.htm

me and vishnu are planning on importing a spindle instead of using a router - he was mentioning that to me.

RGDS
Irfan

Its okay with the spindle, but if its a high speed one you will again troubled with noise(In this case minor but high pitch)... How much it cost u the spindle? and what will u do for cooling it?

its water cooled - chinese - think its around 450 to 550 for a 2.2kw one.

it again can be controlled using mach.

RGDS
Irfan

What about the noise of the blower;)

The blower will be placed in a separate room I hope - the whole cyclone will be kept in a separate room.

Hi Folks I cut some stars to mount the pipes for the window blinds.

all were done using the same toolpaths

but the rounds happened on an accln of 150mm/s/s

the good ones came about 500mm/s/s.

They look good though.

RGDS
Irfan

What we need is the "cone of silence" gadget (that was used in the James Bond spy movies) that can be placed over the router and dust collector. That way we don't have the noise issue to deal with anymore.

edit: By the way, the stars are a neat idea.

CarveOne.

cutting some stuff for a friend

Nice Finish very good design. Keep going i think you have started mastering designs.

Vishnu

thanks vishnu - but I am still just a learner - hope to do a lot more of it!

the machine is working wonderfully well .......

RGDS
IRfan

Irfan,
You the man, the parts are looking great.......................... Keep it up
Paul

Hi paul, thanks for the appreciations - i was wondering why you have not posted yet.
Btw you should start a thread on your CNC conversion on the cnc zone.

RGDS
IRfan

Hi Irfan,

I almost forgot about this thread of yours (you know very buzy)
Nice job, congratulation on your achievement and stand alone machine. Your hard work rewarded. You really are a tremendous guy.
Thumbs up to you :) and your machine. Keep up nice work

Regards,
pks

Thnks PKS

here is some more of the carving with brown paint in between

RGDS
Irfan

my first 3d stuff!

Now all the hard work is on the computer.

see this lovely 2d stuff I cut - aridi art is so beautiful.

RGDS
IRfan

wow.. thats reall cool Irrfan;)

thanks khalid!

Now share us following

1- Dimension of part
2- Tool dia
3- IPM
4-How much time part took on machine
5- is it profile cut??

dimensions : 12x24 inch
Tool dia : 2mm
IPM: 72
time on machine : 40 min
it is a inner profile cut.

Tell me How many passess and what is the thickness of material.. I think it has gone through several passess so the time was that much... In a single pass it shud not more than 15 minutes game..

By the way thanks for sharing...;)

8 mm thk and 4 passes, cnnot do in a single pass as the 2mm dia carbide bit might break.

I am well into the mechmate build here

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?t=573

just an fyi

did some work for a friend and then some work came up for another friend :)

had to carve his teak wood doors - 3 numbers, so decided on getting together the work done on MDF before trying it on costly teak wood,

RGDS
Irfan

here is the table made for a friend that was the first paid work for the table he paid me INR500 for the carvings - he provided the wood.

RGDS
IRfan

Irfan,

Your designs are beautiful. Will like to see more in comming days with your Mechmate & smaller router. Keep going.

Irfan Nice work:)
I will give u a suggestion, if u don't mind.... You have created very beautiful work, but the presentation of ur work is not that good... If u want to market ur work then u must use good presentation skills...

Your pictures comes out dull and dark... If u get them into photo editing program (i use freeware 'Irfanview') the work will really looks great...

Marketing is the name of Presentation...Good presentation means good marketting..

Hope u will work on my suggestions.

Best Regards
Khalid

Khalid - thanks dude - but thats what my Mobile camera could churn up ! and it was late evening. :)

sure will do better later

Vishnu thanks for your comments :)

Some teak wood carvings - first commercial work - comments are really welcome -at present only v-carving - still have to start learning 3d - meanwhile Aspire from vectric looks very promising.

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RGDS
IRfan

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=532618&postcount=201

some of the work done on the HP UHU machine

Hi Irfan,

Good job, nice V carves. The videos are not in details because of the low resolution. Congrats for completeing your first commercial job :). Your post inspire me to complete my machine so i could try them too. Hope to see some nice 3D jobs and textures at the earliest.


Vishnu

some more work done on the CNC

Quite impressive work irfan:)... can u explain what are u making?..tell us the height of the rack....

the first one is the door - the rack is 4x3 for mom's school - no nails involved - my own design of self assembling.

Irfan, You da routerman !
All kidding aside, All of your work looks great
Paul

thanks paul,

need all the well wishes here

Okay..Irfan whats up with the router work!!! and if u not machined the grapes by tomorrow, i will never give u any of my relief;)

Soory dear,

I almost forgot about the grapes - i am busy cutting stuff here for mom and the free time I spend building the Mechmate.

Btw my MOm again asked me to build a computer Table in Ply wood
now I have design and cut one table for her.

So - I wont promise you that I will machine your grapes soon. but I will do it very soon.

RGDS
Irfan

nice work indeed.i am a newbe so i m interested how did you square your rails and table?

http://www.mechmate.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19783&postcount=98

Folks I added a centralised lubrication to the ball screws - cost INR 4000, thats around a 100USD, its a manual pump. with 3 metering cartridges - it was a good investment - in that I have a direct connector where I can pump excess oil to remove all dirt from within the nuts :)

I lost my phone from which I usually click pictures - so no pictures yet.

will soon post pics from my digi cam - also ordered a new cabinet for the controller the present on is too shabby.

RGDS
IRfan

Centralised lubrication and bellows for dust protection :)

almost completed the cabinets for both machines -

a few updates

You're doing a really nice job on those cabinets. Thanks for posting your pics of them.

CarveOne

thanks carveone - we cut some MDF for a friends project will post pictures soon.

RGDS
IRfan

One of my friends asked me to cut 4mm MDF for a model he's doing for a project. here it is presented to you.

RGDS
Irfan

Thats wonderful... He is seems to be an archetict.. The model machined very well:)

Ah no - he is a fellow employee who's doing MS in product design.

Thats good Irfan.. I hope he will give you the order of Scaled Prototype... Once the business started you will no time to comb your hairs ;)

Are u joking - I assuming at the present hair fall rate I will be bald in another year :D

Me too :( You can contact SANYASI BAWA or some HAKEEM... if you find the solution then please let me know...:)

Hi Folks,

computer table designed and cut - now need to paint and put on the wheels :)

ok today I tried cutting Alu -it went terribly bad - i broke my brand new 3mm dia 2 flute endmill - it was one of those extra longs :) used kerosene as the cutting lubricant - but at depth of around 10 mm of the 16 - the alu bonded to the end mill and it broke.

:(

ok no problemo -

there seem to be a slack in the timing belt of the y axis need to chk that also - however the slack is not notised when machining wood - still need to correct that.

ok thats it for now.

RGDS
Irfan

Well, if you tried to cut 10 mm with a 3 mm flute, I would be surprised if it didn't brake... :)

Well, if you tried to cut 10 mm with a 3 mm flute, I would be surprised if it didn't brake... :)

:) I assumed that he was making shallower cuts and it was at 10mm the depth when it broke. Maybe the feed rate was too fast for aluminum.

CarveOne

Actually - it was 0.5mm cuts - it gave up because the Alu welded to the endmill - it was like 30 IPM cuts - that did seem fast I think ?

RGDS
IRfan

Actually - it was 0.5mm cuts - it gave up because the Alu welded to the endmill - it was like 30 IPM cuts - that did seem fast I think ?

RGDS
IRfan

If you were using a standard router running 15,000 to 20,000 rpm then that was part of the problem, maybe all of it. It will eject the kerosene faster than you can apply it. A feed rate closer to 10 to 15 ipm may work better.

I have chamfered the edges of 6061 aluminum with very nice results using a 45 degree regular carbide router bit on my milling machine when using WD-40 spray lubricant, light cuts, slow feed rate, and 2,000 rpm (maximum for my gear head mill). The new cutter left a mirror like finish.

Try cleaning the welded aluminum off of the cutter, use a slow feed rate, and use an oil that has a higher viscosity (thicker). If that doesn't work, try to slow the router rpm using a speed control for routers if you have one available. The router will lose torque but with a low feed rate and shallow cuts it should work better.

CarveOne

Ok - I gave up on Alu and went ahead and made clamp for the new spindle using PP - totally took 3 min to churn out each clamp (10mm thk) - made 2

I am extremely satisfied with my machine - after adding the Automatic voltage stabilizer - works like a charm - no lost steps anymore - and also Love the HP UHU controllers.

RGDS
IRfan

some updates on cyclone and the computer table I made :)

Good looking work you have done Irfan. I'm looking forward to seeing more projects from you. Is the cyclone in operation working well? I'll need to do something like that eventually.

CarveOne

for the cyclone - have to complete the impeller and mount it with the motor and rig up the ducting.

have to do it all alone - thats the difficult part - some times have very little motivation - sometimes have more :)

RGDS
IRfan

I know all about that. I have the same issues. It seems that when I don't have the high level of interest in working on my machine I make more mistakes and have to do twice as much work. The weather is getting warmer here now and I will be able to do some work in the evenings again.

CarveOne

:D we all are alike except one "Mr . Khalid" he just goes on and on and on!

:D we all are alike except one "Mr . Khalid" he just goes on and on and on!


So true, so true. Without his "leading by example" where would we be though? :)

CarveOne

Hello young men :).. Today when i open the cnczone webpage.. My nose got fragrance from this thread ;).. some indigenous persons here pretend that they are doing nothing..;)... Don't say like this my young fellows... you are the hero of CNCzone.. and i really love to see whatever you are doing... I read all your posts with interest and feel happy that i have friendship with the Best persons here...

All to say that I am living with the STARS..:)

Hi - till now I had been cutting these short runs of profile cuts and it was ok - now got a job of making a name board for a friend and it screwed up royally - after about one hour of machining the long axis just was off set by more than 4 mm. - thats very bad for me :(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hgRJDg3jH9M

I am way too furstrated today - i am starting tomorrow to chk on whats wrong -

here is the list of the may be's

1. slack timing belt
2. error on the driver of the motor accumulating
3. loose grub screws
4. backlash in the ball screw?
5. what else should I look at .............

folks look at this picture :( :drowning:
80589

I suspect the two possibilities
1- Loose steps
2- Wrong Steps/pulses values for Y-axis

Now, See the picture attached and tell me what is the case?...



P.S: I will suggest you to decrease the speed (IPM0 an make sure you are not running anyother program beside Mach3

Check the screw couplers. I had some slip, but it was intermittent. Would show sometimes and not others.
What motors and drivers?

Khalid I think its the second one you mentioned - missing step pulses - now how to do that ?
- i remember having that problem long back due to resistance on the parallel port cable.

BoB - the motors are PMDC's converted to servo's - each is 625 watts, the drivers are HP UHU servo boards.

RGDS
IRfan

Khalid I think its the second one you mentioned - missing step pulses - now how to do that ?
- i remember having that problem long back due to resistance on the parallel port cable.

BoB - the motors are PMDC's converted to servo's - each is 625 watts, the drivers are HP UHU servo boards.

RGDS
IRfan


Sometime motor loose steps at certain location of the part (due to rapid acceleration change, or using high DOC, or having a tough grains , or the tool is not sharp)..and this can be happen.. so i will suggest you to
1- Reduce the speed (IPM)
i also suggest you to Fine tune both the lead screws.

Sir - all that is not the case - bcos these are servo's and at 625 watts they have the power of declamping any work if the router by mistake is not started and still maintain position -

the error happen's over a period of time - and I am sure its a case of lost steps.

lemme finish my Mechmate today and then focus on this. think it has something to do with the BOB

Irfan..
You may be right because you know your hardware better than me ;)... I hate when the things turned out wrong:(.. I hope you will recover soon as u did in the past...;)

I have heard that noise can do things like this...if memory serves me right you are already running differential line drivers ?

Check for ground loops...they can be nasty little so and so's

Russell.

Hi Irfan,
I think your list of things to check is a good starting point. I don't think it's backlash though since the problem seems to increases with time.

I'd also make sure to check the ever so interesting O-count on the drives when the error has developed, if it's not zero then I'd aim at fixing that. Also check the encoder<->motor coupling/set screw and whatever holds your couplings/pulleys to the motorshaft and screw.

If the O-count is zero it might be noice on the step/dir-line but that needs to be some conciderable noice to drive the opto-isolators so it's a bit of a longshot - but possible. Try running the part with spindle and any other "noicy" machinery turned off and see what happens.

/Henrik.

Hi Irfan,
I think your list of things to check is a good starting point. I don't think it's backlash though since the problem seems to increases with time.

I'd also make sure to check the ever so interesting O-count on the drives when the error has developed, if it's not zero then I'd aim at fixing that. Also check the encoder<->motor coupling/set screw and whatever holds your couplings/pulleys to the motorshaft and screw.

If the O-count is zero it might be noice on the step/dir-line but that needs to be some conciderable noice to drive the opto-isolators so it's a bit of a longshot - but possible. Try running the part with spindle and any other "noicy" machinery turned off and see what happens.

/Henrik.

Thanks Henrik and Russell - I will chk the 0 error count on the drives - think thats the culprit - now where is my serial cable :)

set screw and all is tight - I already chkd - it has to be the hardware/wiring issue

I have shielded cable on the encoder lines and it should affect other axis too if its affecting this alone.
i will chk up and report !

Russell - grounding issues - loops I am doubtful but surely I will chk for it -

just one more thing - say if the shaft of the motor with the encoder disk on it has a little runout with respect to the encoder sensors - does that make any great difference?

RGDS
IRfan

Encoders usually have an acceptable runout they can handle, check your encoder datasheets, this will give you their tolerance, I don't actually know what will happen if you exeed this tolerance...I would think they would stop working altogether.

I know grounding issues are like chasing rainbows, but worth checking out.

Do you have single ended encoders or differential ?

Russell.

single ended converted to differentials - and pretty good at that

chkd all mechanical hardware - seems good

also chkd grounding loop by removing the grounding wire near the trouble axis motor still same problem - also chkd out with router off - still same

so its to do with eitehr error accumulating on the drive or missing steps

thats gonna be a bit simple :)

RGDS
Irfan

So did you check the O-count after the error had developed in any of the above tests? If it's not zero I bet that is where the problem is.

not yet henrik - I am busy with my Mechamate - will be doing it only on wednesday/thursday

OK - opened the control cabinet - pulled out the step/direction cable from BoB to UHU - routed it away from other wires, then pulled the encoder cable and did the same.

ran the same program for around an hour. chk for over runs and count shows 1 - :)

surprising bcos earlier when the cables were all tucked in - it would be zero.

BUT there is the same error - the Y axis had moved from its original location to about 4 mm forward. :confused:

now the next test would be to interchange the drivers (UHU) and see if its really the electronics?

RGDS
IRfan

Pls check the pitch of the Y-axis lead screw..i doubt it will be different as compare to X-axis.. so the values of Steps/unit will also be different in motor tuning Mach3 dialogue.... I recall that you have got these ball screws from junk!!!.. they must have some problems...check the ball screw for any wear/scratches..

Hi Irfan,
I'm sorry to hear you're still having problems. I think you need to test this in a more "controlled" way. For example, disconnect the power to everything except the Y-axis. Then run a program that moves the Y back and forth between 0 and 500 or whatever 50 times and then check the position and O-count.

I don't think that noise on the encoder lines alone will cause this if you only have a single invalid transion detected but I would do whatever I could to make sure that the O-count ALWAYS is zero - otherwisw you simply don't know what's happend. Does the Y-axis encoder cable run between any other cables for longer runs than the X for example, try to separate everything untill you find something that is 100% reliable - then you know where the problem is and can work out a solution.

I know you've checked all the mechanics but it might be worth rechecking....

/Henrik.

today I tried again - got the parallel port cable separated out from rest of the wires and after one hour of operation - we have more than 6 mm of shift - this is crazy and yes the Overrun count was 0.

next try would be to swap the controller (UHU) servo board -

some how I feel its the ball screw - no worries there bcos I have a spare ball screw
but the shift is such that - this is only possible due to missed steps and it cannot happen due to back lash atleast :!

and since its repeating itself accuartelly my doubt is still on the missed steps -

this started after I moved the electronics to the new controller enclosure.

hmmmmm- - - this is turning out to be very interesting.

RGDS
IRfan

Hi Irfan,
What type of break-out-board do you have? Itss possible that you get cross-talk between the different wires in the LPT-port cable and if the break-out-board uses buffers on the S/D lines (before the opto's, if the board has that) then it's possible this may be your problem.

When doing this last test did you run the Y-axis only or did you run the complete machine?

If you have the possibillity, try with another LPT-cable (another brand), as short as possible. Or better yet simply solder three wires for Step, Direction and common to a DB25 plug and wire it to the UHU, bypassing the preak-out-board.

Have you tried raising the pulsewidth and direction prechange in Mach3? Perhaps the breakoutbaord is just on the edge of detecting the narrow pulses....

Eventually you'll find it!
/Henrik.

Hi Irfan,
What type of break-out-board do you have? Itss possible that you get cross-talk between the different wires in the LPT-port cable and if the break-out-board uses buffers on the S/D lines (before the opto's, if the board has that) then it's possible this may be your problem.

The BoB I am using is a MiniIO from candcnc.com - its a pretty good one.


When doing this last test did you run the Y-axis only or did you run the complete machine?

It was the all 3 axis -



If you have the possibillity, try with another LPT-cable (another brand), as short as possible. Or better yet simply solder three wires for Step, Direction and common to a DB25 plug and wire it to the UHU, bypassing the preak-out-board.

earlier I had a chinese cable which had a 3 Ohm resistance due to which I had similar problem on all 3 axis - then I changed it to a .25 mm sq 20 core cable and soldered the DB25 plugs on each side. myself. i will try using the direct wire theory.


Have you tried raising the pulsewidth and direction prechange in Mach3? Perhaps the breakoutbaord is just on the edge of detecting the narrow pulses....

Eventually you'll find it!
/Henrik.

I have the pulsewidth set to 5 uS

whats direction prechange? I don't know about this.

yes eventually I feel :) need to make money soon - I am running out of all I had :(

The direction pre-change setting (called DIR pulse in Mach3) is how long in advance of the step pulse the direction signal is changed. That is, if left at zero the direction line is toggled "together" with the first step pulse "in the other direction". If you set the Direction Prechange to 2 the direction signal will toggle ~2uS before the first step pulse "in the other direction". Allowing the opto-isolator for the direction signal some time to "see" it before the step-pulse comes along.

Lost steps at direction reversal is usually due to this setting being too low together with drives and or BOBs with slow(ish) opto-isolators or other timing artifacts. (Although I have mine at 0 and it works fine with HP-UHU). However, if the BOB introduces any sort of delay on the signals then it might happen. Opto-isolators also have different turn-on and turn-off times which can make this problem show up as "axis creepage". That's why I'd try to bypass the breakout board as a test.

/Henrik.

if your sitting in face of Mach kindly post a snapshot of where to change this value. I will try connecting it direct later this weekend.

RGDS
IRfan

but also why particularly that axis?

Irfan,
Attached is a screenshot of the motortuning dialog, which is where you change the direction pre-change. I agree, it's weird that it's only one axis, perhaps you damaged something while switching cabinets. ESD damages sometimes shows very strange symptoms. Bypassing the BOB and then swapping drives should tell you.

Another thing to try could be to swap the motors between X and Y, does the problem stay on the Y-axis or does it follow the motor? Swap the step and direction signals between the BOB and the drives, is the problem still on Y although the signals now goes thru what used to be the circuitry for X etc...

yup - how stupid of me its all 5uS.

I have to test by swapping drives now and the direct cable.

RGDS
IRfan

Oh My god!

swapping the drives did it!

its all working pretty well - just have to test em all a gain by cutting some thing

RGDS
IRfan

you are very lucky to have your family involved in such a project.

VERY nice build!

Thank you!

Had the end supports of the ballscrew made and mounted onto the machine for a look,the guy who reconditioned the screw SCREWED it up on the support end.

It was in no way the dia of the bearing and now i need help,i will post some more photos requesting for help.

Meanwhile enjoy these pics.

Hi Irfan,

I have a question, the way you mount your linear bearing open type is on its side does it posed any problem at all if you have a much heavier Z axis?
I will building mine soon and I need to figure out how to mount those linear bearing open type correctly all I know is just to lay them flat instead of on their side.

there have not been any problems yet - but a better option would be like in this video

YouTube - Hi Speed CNC Wood carving Router

Hi Irfan,

I'm not talking about the ballscrew in Z axis but I'm talking about the linear motion ball bearing open type that you installed in your X axis (the way you mount your linear motion ball bearing OT is on their side). My question would be are those types of linear motion ball bearing open type can also be mounted on their side like that? because it is an open type.
BTW very nice machine Irfan you did an outstanding job!

open types have no issues what ever way they are mounted, you can mount them inverted too, the reason I posted the video is to let you know the way these linear bearing have be mounted on the gantry -this is the correct way.

while I was building the machine I was very naive and I missed that point - but till now I have no issues with this machine - its been performing wonderfully well.

RGDS
Irfan

Thanks for the info Irfan. I was going to mount the X like mechmate but now decided to mount it like yours.

Thanks for the info Irfan. I was going to mount the X like mechmate but now decided to mount it like yours.

if using linear slides then go that way, if using V wheels then go the mechmate way.

Irfan, what kind of lubricant do you put on your linear bearings OT and ballscrews?

I use general purpose lithium grease for the linear slides and 68 grade hydraulic oil for the ball screws.

Its been a long time since I have used this router - basically due to my move to the Mechmate,

now since I have learnt so much over the period, I am planning to do an upgrade to this machine- I will be moving from the current servo to entire stepper control, adding a 1.5KW spindle and also have a fopurth axis, here are the pic's in CAD.

RGDS
Irfan

I will be reusing the gantry and the Z axis, I will use laser cut 8mm thk Mild steel plates for the sides,so ideas I ahve used from the mechmate site for the Y axis drives.

RGDS
IRfan

Hi

As was mentioned for the most part I agree mounting this type of linear system has no problems in any orientation. Except for when the open blocks are mounted upside down. You must de-rate the load capacity by 50 %. This fact was provided to me by the manufacturer tech support engineer.
Regards Barry
Here`s a pic of my build using Thomson round rails upside down.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7020&page=6


Thanks for the info Irfan. I was going to mount the X like mechmate but now decided to mount it like yours.

here is the new frame

I have some questions, I am using a laser cut 8 mm thk mild steel plate - the profile is as shown in the attached pics, let me know if it looks structurally ok...

the motor for the gantry ball screw will also be mounted on this plate.

That looks very sturdy to me Irfan. If you see any end to end movement you can weld some bracing in an inverted "V" on each side and the ends to help provide anti-racking and also provide additional mid span support on the longer upper rails. The C-channel top rails probably does not need it.

The 8mm plate is a little thicker than our standard 5/16" plates. That should be more than thick enough for your motor mount.

CarveOne

Hi carveone thanks, - I have made it as a olt on frame - each member there is individually bolted and currently its very rigid, I will be using mechmate's motor plates and assy for the gear drive on the large axis for this one.

I am moving to steppers, but before that wanted to finish off the mechanicals and then order the spindle, steppers and VFD.

RGDS
Irfan

Hi Irfan, any reason for going to steppers rather than servo's ?, usually people go the other way :)

New frame looks nice and solid, gotta love steel for the frame !

Cheers.

Russell.

Russell - the servo's are not real servo's , these are PMDC motors with encoders - the problem is that for a router there are not suitable as I did not match them to the UHU drives, the sudden change in directions required in case of the wood router result in errors on the drives and this is why I want to move on to steppers which are much more forgiving and also low on costs.

but these servos will be used probably on a mill which one of my friend is building.

RGDS
Irfan

Same question as i asked on a similar build thread:
How did you make sure that your x axis rails were properly aligned ? do you have any adjustement possible within your welded base ?

Hi Irfan, sorry but I thought I replied to your response to my question...my bad :)

I know what you mean about getting decent servo's, I have a few but they always seem to be the wrong size for what I am doing...I am doing a retrofit of a really old lathe that I want to add a third (Z) axis to have a milling machine as well, I will be playing with servo drives of different types, I will post details somewhere if it works out. One idea is to use a C40 generator/starter, they have a good commutator with small segments and lots of power, maybe a good servo for heavy applications, for those of us with small budgets, I will keep you posted.

Cheers.

Russell.