rocket and all, the sh router (excitech) is on display at several booths that are near us, if there are any photos are any thing i can get for you. contacts etc. let me know!!!

jim

G`day Jim, Just had a look at the camaster thread. You blokes seem to be having a great time in Atlanta.

Very impressed with the camaster booth and the X3 machine.

If you could take some photos of the Excitech machines on display, it would be appreciated. Do they have the DSP system or are they using other control systems?

Rocket.

here ya go excitech routers at IWF

Lot of Mach3 screens on display there. You'd think that these guys would at least make some custom screens for their machines. :)

Hey all, if money was of no concern, which CNC machine would be the best you could purchase? Location is not of concern either - it will be shipped to Saudi Arabia.

Even if it is just brands recommended that is fine, I will follow up from there.

It would need to cut a lot of lattice work into our panel.

John

I only have experience using about three. If money is of no concern then you must be wanting ease of use and suitability for the type of work as deciding factors in your purchase?

In my ( Limited) experience the most expensive isn't always the best for the job at hand and is rarely the easiest to use. I have used a Excitech, a Multicam, and a Weeke. The Excitech I have is by far the most basic of them all but also by far the easiest to setup and run. IMHO YMMV :D

Shannon.

then you must be wanting ease of use and suitability for the type of work as deciding factors in your purchase?
QUOTE]

Ease of use is a major factor, the machine will be used by novices so minimal training is preferred.

[QUOTE=Big S;493410]
In my ( Limited) experience the most expensive isn't always the best for the job at hand and is rarely the easiest to use.


I agree, the jobs will require intricate detail I'm just putting the question out there - if you want to purchase a reliable easy to use machine that does the best job, what would it be?

Here are a couple of photos of the business cards that I have made on my Excitech router. They are made out of 3mm mirror backed acrylic, I would use 1.5mm acrylic if I can find a supplier here in NZ. I am not sure what accuracy you require, but these cards are the same size as a standard business card (only a lot thicker) :D:D

Shannon.

John and Shannon, I am a big fan of Excitech - But in this instance i do wonder if it may be preferable to go to a machine which has great backup support and can be remotely fine tuned via the supplier?

I speak of the " camheads " from camaster. These blokes are doing excellent work with their customers. A big advantage is the level of support that they happily provide. And the fact that they speak good english. Their controller is wincnc.

See the camaster thread.

Rocket.

hey guys, its been a while since ive been online, you guys have learnt so much in this last few months..
i am struggling with something . i dont know if any of you can point me in the right direction.
i need some one to write a little converter program. my machine is older and uses HPGL code. the files it uses to cut with end in .plt
however most of the more advance creating software i want to use creates g-code. and the files they produce end in .dnc

so the little converter program must convert .dnc files to .plt files.
anyone have some clues. this is kind of the opposite way round to what most people do and anything i can find on the net so far... help pls

I was thinking about purchasing a water cooled spindle but I live in Ohio and my shop is unheated when not in use. I afraid that the water would freeze and crack the spindle. Can you use something like rv antifreeze or Ice thaw washer fluid as a coolant?

the chinese spindles i have seen are basically a fish pump in a bucket, i cannot imagine antifreeze would hurt it, in any way, probably more problem for the pum than the spindle!

jim

.

Hey Sally, Have you got a Mustang? We could go Cruising!http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif

Excitech Rules!

But wait - there are more pics of Excitech and Mustangs

http://photobucket.com/rocket67

Rocket

:confused:

Mustang Sally could not see the humour - Will miss you Sally.

Our intended purchase of the Excitech 4 x 8 machine is getting further away. Just checked the AUD against the USD and we are down to 80 cents! Oh sh..te!That means we have gone from near parity of 98 cents only a month ago - to needing another 20%. That is another $1200!!!!
Can only hope the dollar improves.(nuts)

Bit quiet at the moment on the Excitech thread!

Fire up people!!

Rocket.

Hello,

Please allow me to introduce myself since this is my first post on this forum.
My name is Marco and I live in the Netherlands, Europe. I have ordered an Excitech SHM1312B machine and I expect it to arrive within approx. 2 (maybe 3) weeks. I have read a lot about this machine on the cnczone forum and I want to say a big THANKS to all the great info that can be found here. I hope to post usefull help as well, once I get to know my machine :-)

Software : I am practicing with Artcam software at the moment and although it has a lot of possibilities and is a bit complex, I think I will manage to get some nice results. I will probably need to get some practice with Autocad.
I also have a trial version of VcarvePro and that is very user-friendly software in my opinion. Works great for carving, but the 3D possibilities of Artcam are very impressive.

Purpose : I have bought this machine for private use, although it would be nice to earn some money with it :-) In my spare time I make furniture, building guitars and a lot of other things with wood. But I would also like to use the cnc-router to experiment with other materials like for instance Corian. I have a big list of creative ideas and I am so excited, I would not knwo where to start once it arrives :-))

If you like, I will post some pictures once my machine arrives.

Reagrds,
Marco

Hi Marco,

looking forward to seeing the pictures of your machine,

Shannon.

Hi Marco,

I am very glad to hear you are getting an Excitech very soon. Is this going to be the first one in the Netherlands? A student (HMC) doing a 3 month stage at our company is doing a CNC-guitar project at his school's end project. We have to wait another 5 weeks before our Excitech will arrive, so sadly enough there will be not much time left to use the company machine for his project. But we are also very excited and preparing all sorts of test projects.
Does your machine arrive in Rotterdam harbour? How did you arrange import and the last part of the transport?

Regards,

Gerrit

Hi Marco,

I am very glad to hear you are getting an Excitech very soon. Is this going to be the first one in the Netherlands? A student (HMC) doing a 3 month stage at our company is doing a CNC-guitar project at his school's end project. We have to wait another 5 weeks before our Excitech will arrive, so sadly enough there will be not much time left to use the company machine for his project. But we are also very excited and preparing all sorts of test projects.
Does your machine arrive in Rotterdam harbour? How did you arrange import and the last part of the transport?

Regards,

Gerrit

Hello Gerrit,
I have bought my machine through Germany (I am not sure if I am allowed to mention his website here), there is a very friendly guy who runs a business selling cnc-machines/parts. I know he imports the machine from China, and of course it would be cheaper if I would have done that myself but now he will take care of everything (import, custom duties) and he will check if everything is okay before he will send it to me. If I have a problem, he will give support. My machine arrived this week in Hamburg, Germany. So it is very close to the Netherlands :-)

If this is the first one in the Netherlands? The German guy told me he sold another one to someone in Holland. So maybe it is the second? And when your machine arrives, it will be the third :-)

mm, guitar building has my interest as well :-))

Keep in contact please, maybe we can exchange experiences!

Hi all,
I have EXCITECH 0609 CNC Router (with RZNC 0501 DSP control system). It's good CNC for the horizontal goods, but my business is growing, and I need in the rotate table for the rotate objects. I use ArtCam, Type3 and Ucancam software.
1. Who can help me for true selection at the Rotate Table.
2. Where I can buy the additional rotate table for low cost? (P.S. A'm from Ukraine, the seller must ship to Ukraine)
3. Can I make the rotate objects for CNC in my software?

Ula:

There is some things you need to know in respect of the machine you have:

1. The DSP do not support automatic rotation/control of a 4th axis. It might through some good firmware update, but this is not supported by the factory.

2. I have not used a 0609 but I know you have a external box which I guess contains a similar controller board setup as I have, which I guess in you're case is named RZNC 0501. I would therefor expect that you need to rebuild the machine where you remove the DSP controller and the interface board. Then you need to get a breakout board which could be connected to a PC which then would be the new "DSP" where you would import you're G-code from the U-disk.

3. The PC must then run some kind of controller SW which makes the PC work like a "DSP". This could be Mach3 or other SW packages. Note that there are SW packages containing separate PC boards to interface with the CNC machine - typical WinCNC.

4. You would then need a extra stepper motor driver which could be connected to the new setup. This driver would be connected to the breakout board and through this to the PC which controls the machine. This would depend on what's inside you're external box, but in my machine I have 5 separate motor drivers, which might be a smaller unit in you're external box setup.

5. Then you need to find a 4th axis which has a stepper motor to connect to the stepper motor driver. The particular 4th axis vendor need to supply you some details in respect of reduction ratios to work out how the 4th axis should be controlled by the PC (in for instance Mach3). This would be, I guess step/degree, step/revolution or something similar.

It's not as trivial as you might think, and I have been investigating the same thing for a long time.

In respect of 4th axis, you simply need to do a search on the net. I have found the cheapest tho be Sherlines setup, http://www.sherline.com/8730pg.htm which is good for indexing but then I'm not sure if it would be good for turning and milling at the same time.
Another one is
http://www.cnc-router-routers.com/html/drehtisch_cnc_router_routing_e.html
which is more expensive but except from this I have no experience with it.

Here is some more expensive one
http://www.isel-germany.de/products/category.php?lang=de&ID=c57
Price range €1300 to €6000

EDIT: You need a advanced SW for proper 4th axis milling (controlling the item milled while milling). For simple indexing you could insert a single command in you're G Code, at the correct place. Ucancam has no support for 4 axis machining, the Type 3 version I received was VERY limited and has never been used by me.

If you find any good deals on rotary tables/4th axis some where else, please let me know (send me a PM in case)

Hope it helped

K

I was going to suggest that Kent is the one you need to hear from, He is the closest that I know of to setting up a fourth axis on an Excitech router.

Shannon.

Thank Kent,
wow... an answer for the my little question

since we are on fourth axis topic, look on page four of this thread!!

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=945809#post945809

Jim,

I've tried to register now 5-10 times and what ever I do I receive the feedback that:
That username is already in use or does not meet the administrator's standards. If you are XXXXX and you have forgotten your password, bla bla

I give up!!!

I was only interested in the pics

K

they require a full name, i joined a few months ago and while it is a woodworkers forum it is a good one!!

jim

Jim,


You must have a iPhone or something, posting a whopping 1101 posts :)

I saw the setup, innovative I agree but it's not for me. I guess I would chase that 4th axis for a while :p
Still trying to decide which breakout board to go for, where I'm trying to home in something which has good support.

K

i am always amazed at innovation!!

i have computers in the office, cnc room office at home, the pond house and the barn, it might look like a lot of post but you would not believe what it has done for me in what i have learned from you guy's

jim

ROCKET, i fely i had to let you in on this!!

http://vectric.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3875

While James Booth was making his closing remarks about the Aspire Software I was writing the check. From what I can see from it so far, and I have not really had a good chance to play with it yet, it is the equal of ArtCam, and alot more affordable. It actually has some features already in it that will not be in AC until it's next release. My hat is off to all the people at Vectric for creating this software, Way to go Guys!!!!!

Kent norway, I was finally successful registering on the sawmill creek site today like you I have tried a bunch of times! what I had to do was enter my real first and last name with a space in between, not just a user name like it says

Kent norway, I was finally successful registering on the sawmill creek site today like you I have tried a bunch of times! what I had to do was enter my real first and last name with a space in between, not just a user name like it says

Gary,

Thank's for the feedback. I did manage to register after several tries so now I'm Kent Jnorway up there :)

Kent

Hello everyone,

Today my SHM1312 router arrived :) The machine comes from China of course, but I bought it in Germany from cnc-router.de. They do all the handling, import-duties and they will support me if I have problems. The guy that works there (Wolfgang Walle) is a very friendly and helpfull guy.

Although one side-panel is damaged during transport, I am still very happy with it.

I am checking everything before switching it on and I have to do a lot of cleaning: there is a sort of grease everywhere but Wolfgang has told me that this is not lubrication, it is for rust-prevention and I should remove it. So I will.

But after I have cleaned everything, I will need to lubricate it. And although I have searched the forum and the internet, I am still not sure what to do/use. So I have a few questions, any help is much appreciated :)



- The HIWIN Linear Guideways : my German contact tells me to use oil and not grease because with grease they won't live long. When I look at the HIWIN website I have found "the standard grease nipple may be replaced by an oil piping joint.....Generally, grease is applied for speeds that do not exceed 60m/min, faster speeds will require high-viscosity oil as a lubricant" .
My machine doesn't go that fast. Will it be okay to use grease? Or is Wolfgang right (in which case I should find out where to find those "oil piping joints").

- The other question is about the last picture in this post: Here you can see a different nipple :this one is open and not closed with a small ball like on the linear guideways. What do I put into this (and onto the spiral thing, don't know the exact english word for it)?

Stupid of me that I did not think of these questions earlier, when I had all the time to find the right lubrication.:(

BTW that is not me in the pictures, it's my father in law :p

Your router looks good,

I have been using grease on my SHM1530 and it stays on the rails fine, ie there is a film of grease on the rails when you touch them. I have been greasing the machine about once a month or so and its fine.

The spiral thing is a ball screw, the fitting on the ball nut (ball screw runs into it) looks like an oil piping connector, I have been using a spray lube on my ball screw as there is no grease nipple on it. You could use the oil fitting to grease the ball screw but it would be best to put a small cap over the fitting to stop the dust getting into the grease.

Shannon.

Crank it up!!

jim

Hello everyone,

- The HIWIN Linear Guideways : my German contact tells me to use oil and not grease because with grease they won't live long. When I look at the HIWIN website I have found "the standard grease nipple may be replaced by an oil piping joint.....Generally, grease is applied for speeds that do not exceed 60m/min, faster speeds will require high-viscosity oil as a lubricant" .
My machine doesn't go that fast. Will it be okay to use grease? Or is Wolfgang right (in which case I should find out where to find those "oil piping joints").

Coco; You're machine looks great. I have the same but I did go for the version which don't need the extra power/control cabinet. I have used grease on my machine but this is only in the Y axis. I greased with a high sticky red type of grease on the cogwheels and one with a lower viscosity(Thinner) on the rails.

In the X axis, there is however only those "metal ball" filling caps. On these I have used a special spray fluid called InduFett
https://www1.elfa.se/elfa~eu_en/b2b/catalogstart.do?tab=catalog

This is a special spray which I have to say has worked very well. It even feels better than the grease used in the Y axis. I have however not applied this through the "metal ball" opening on the HiWin it self, but I have added it to the rails. I would however start to use it through the me metal ball opening as well.

On the ball screw was initially lubricated with the same oil as in X, but I have now added grease both on the rails and the ball screw.

Please take note of the following: Check paper towel when you have cleaned the ball screw in Z! Mine had a lot of metal dust in it when I used the spray oil and I had to lube - clean - lube - clean - lube -clean ..... a lot of times to get most of it out.

I have discussed the lubrication subject a lot in this thread, but I guess this thread is so long that we can't keep track of it :)

Also, check the homing sensors distance in the Z axis ! Mine has some times passed the "mark" and if it was'nt because I was there and followed the movement, it would have knocked the Z axis to it's end position and possibly destroyed the machine .....

Keep us updated on the setup part and how it goes. I have my own thread about my machine here http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57159 which I update every now and then when I have some news.

EDIT: Since you call you're self Cocobolo, you are not making pool cues by any chance :)

Kent

I had the Z-axis cover off my machine today and I saw the C.A.D wire coiled up in there (I had removed it a while ago and tucked the wire away)

I took it out and tried it out by touching it against the cutter when the Z-axis was slowly descending to set the Z-0 height. What I found was that when touched on the tool it would only work intermittently, but when I touched the wire to the spindle housing it would set the Z-0 every time. My spindle has ceramic bearings in the front and steel bearings in the rear but still doesn't seem to have enough continuity for a reliable Z-0. If I rotated the spindle manually with the wire against the cutter, the machine would set the Z-0 but only sometimes.

What I am planning to do is make a puck that has a micro switch in it and run a earth and C.A.D wire to the switch. I may also make it sprung so that it is less likely to chip the (expensive) carbide cutters if it goes too far..

Maybe Ramon could try touching the C.A.D puck on to the spindle housing and see if it sets the Z-0?

Shannon.

Thanks Kent/Shannon for the good advise!

Mmm,yes, I will indeed put a small cap over the fitting to prevent dust from getting in...

Ok, I will use grease for the Y-axis. On the Hiwin-rails I will also use grease and in the hiwin-guideways I will make use of those greasepoints (the manufacturer has installed them for that purpose so I can;t imagine it can do any harm). For the greasepoint I will buy such a greasegun (will get one tomorrow). And for the Z-axis I will use the oil-piping point (a sort of grease point but without the little ball) and I will use a synthetic lubrication with PTFE (we call it Teflon but not sure if this is the word for it).

Good advise about the paper towel, thanks :-) I will clean everything very carefull. Yesterday I removed one of the gantry-sides and there were a lot of metal splinters (is that the correct word? I mean metal chips) in there. So I will now check everything before turning it on.

About that homing-sensor advise : not sure if I understand what you mean. Are you talking about the sensor for detecting the material thickness? I will have a close look at the machine this evening and will get back on this subject if I don't get it.

Thanks all!

First of all, when I was typing this post I noticed I don't know the exact word for some of the parts of the machine, I apologize. I will do my best to learn to use the correct names for the parts, I am sure after a few posts it will go better :o

@Kent : I forgot to answer your question about my cocobolo nickname : no, I don't make pool cues but cocobolo is sometimes used in guitarbuilding and I have built a few guitars so that's why (couldn't think of a better name at this moment).


I have just switched on the machine for the first time, couldn't resist to take her for a short ride :) That was a bit exciting/scary but fortunately it switched on and responds to my manual x/y/z instructions on the DSP.

Now, when I press home, the machine goes of course to the home position. But the router is outside the table at that position, is that normal? I have made a picture of it. I have also made 2 pictures of the switches that should detect the end of the Y-axis is reached.


2 other things I noticed of which I would like your opinion if this is normal:
#1) When I move the router on the x-axis to the left, the router stops before it is at the beginning. Ok, it is close to the start of the x-axis but not as close as could be. And when I looked at the switch (homing sensor? is that the word?) there is much room left before the metal strip is reached (please see the picture, that probably explains it better than my bad English, sorry about that).

#2) When I move the router on the x-axis to the right, it bangs into the right side of the gauntry.
Could it be that the #1 problem is the cause of the #2 problem? I mean, if it stops before the beginning of the x-axis (because the machine thinks it is at the beginning), is the end of the x-axis relative to this point (x millimeters/inches to the right of this point)?

Thanks,
Marco

Marco,

Everything seems normal, the machine origin can be set inside the machinable area.

1, The tab and homing sensor seems to be working properly, the sensor trips when the metal is inside its field of view. It doesn't have to be directly in front of it. I have the sensor manual here if you want a copy.

2, You have the right idea on this one, the axis banging sounds like the soft limits aren't set properly and that its traveling too far, if you need help doing this just let us know.

Shannon.

Marco,

everything seems normal, the machine origin can be set inside the machinable area.

1, The tab and homing sensor seems to be working properly, the sensor trips when the metal is inside its field of view. It doesn't have to be directly in front of it. I have the sensor manual her eif you want a copy.

2, You have the right idea on this one, the axis banging sounds like the soft limits aren't set properly and that its traveling too far, if you need help doing this just let us know.

Shannon.

That's a fast answer :-)
Aha, I see, I thought the metal strip needed to be in front of the sensor. The metal strip from the x-axis is still quite far from the metal strip (see last picture) but if this is normal then okay, no problem :-) I will try to figure out how I can adjust the soft limits (I am sure that it must be in the DSP menu somewhere, where else could it be? :) . But if I don't manage, I will gladly accept your help.

To be continued (of that I am sure)...

Ok I didn't look close enough at the last picture. The sensor should be closer than that, the tab doesn't have to be directly in front of the sensor but maybe 2-3mm over it, just like in the third photo.

It should go right to the tab when you home the machine. If I were you I would get the sensor sorted out before you change the soft limits. Does it stop at the same place each time you press the 'home' button on the DSP?

Shannon.

Marco;

Just a short one;
-I'm pretty sure that my machine is flush to the table when homed. I'll check next weekend.
-Soft limits; when you first turn the machine on, it some times has these wild settings. It stops the machine then due to the soft limits. This has always been solved by hitting "Home" and possibly XY=0.

Have to head horizontal. Pool tournament tomorrow.

K

hi
Looking with interest at your excitech problems. Got the same machine 2 weeks ago and am having big problems. I can't get the machine to go HOME, I thought i had the problem sorted-the Z axis sensor dos not seem to be working, i can't get it to work even by using a screw driver in front of it. The y and x axis i can set the sensor light off inside the control box. So-i got a new sensor sent out, fitted it up just now and with great anticipation started the machine.....Same problem the machine wants to keep travelling upward until it runs ot of travel on the ball screw.
Any ideas, the machine looks good for its price, i have a 900*600 excitch also and it has been great. But i am desperate to get the thing going.
Please help me i am a novice

hi
Looking with interest at your excitech problems. Got the same machine 2 weeks ago and am having big problems. I can't get the machine to go HOME, I thought i had the problem sorted-the Z axis sensor dos not seem to be working, i can't get it to work even by using a screw driver in front of it. The y and x axis i can set the sensor light off inside the control box. So-i got a new sensor sent out, fitted it up just now and with great anticipation started the machine.....Same problem the machine wants to keep travelling upward until it runs ot of travel on the ball screw.
Any ideas, the machine looks good for its price, i have a 900*600 excitch also and it has been great. But i am desperate to get the thing going.
Please help me i am a novice

I would check the wiring and where it plugs into the card inside the control box (power off first) The screwdriver should be enough to trip the sensor, if you have a multimeter handy, check that the sensor is getting 24volts to it.

Shannon.

Ok I didn't look close enough at the last picture. The sensor should be closer than that, the tab doesn't have to be directly in front of the sensor but maybe 2-3mm over it, just like in the third photo.

It should go right to the tab when you home the machine. If I were you I would get the sensor sorted out before you change the soft limits. Does it stop at the same place each time you press the 'home' button on the DSP?

Shannon.

Update : when I press HOME, it goes to the beginning of the x-axis and stops when the sensor reaches the metal strip, so then everything is fine :)

Now when I jog the machine manually in 'continuous' mode to the right and then back to the left, it works fine. But ONLY if I keep pressing the button. It then stops at the limit switch.
But if I let go of it for example 10 centimeters (4 inch) before the beginning of the x-axis, and then use small steps to move it further, then it will stop like in the last picture. So it seems that I can only go to the beginning of the x-axis if the router moves in continuous mode with a certain speed. Strange...

The question is now if it would do the same if I run a programm : would it also stop before the beginning of the x-axis is reached if my programm is running with small steps? Probably...

So I don't think there is anything wrong with my sensor?

It does sound like your sensor is fine, I am not sure why its stops short of the sensor.
If you press home, then XY-0, does jogging it away and back again show the same fault?

Shannon.

It does sound like your sensor is fine, I am not sure why its stops short of the sensor.
If you press home, then XY-0, does jogging it away and back again show the same fault?

Shannon.

I've just done that. The dsp displays x 000.000 y 000.000 z 000.000
Now jogging it away and back again (in step mode) stops on different points, all approx. between 8 and 5 centimeters (x displays for instance 48.000).
Now when I press the X- button, you can just see the MANL text in the upper-right corner of the display change to STOP (but you have to look closely, it is only a very brief moment. What I did next, was to set the DISTANCE in the distance mode to 10mm. And now when I press X- in the distancemode it does continue to the X 0 position (where in step-mode I couldn't get it to move any further)!
So maybe I should not bother that much. I mean, I can get the x-axis manually to the zero position with the Distance-mode or with the continous mode. So I will have to try it with some g-code and see if it responds okay.

Just set the Z-0 high and run a file without the spindle on or anything, I would be giving it a solid test if mine was doing the same thing.

Is the z-axis unit binding or tight around that spot? if you turn the machine off and push it by hand there should be about the same amount of resistance the whole way across the y-axis. Just a thought.


Shannon.

Just set the Z-0 high and run a file without the spindle on or anything, I would be giving it a solid test if mine was doing the same thing.

Is the z-axis unit binding or tight around that spot? if you turn the machine off and push it by hand there should be about the same amount of resistance the whole way across the y-axis. Just a thought.


Shannon.

mmm, good suggestion, I will check it! Unfortunately I have to be somewhere else the rest of the day, can't wait to investigate it a little furter. Maybe this evening ...

What I should also ask is do the numbers on the DSP keep changing when the gantry has stopped (most likely a jam or something) or is it that the DSP doesn't respond to the key press or is thinking that it has reached the limit when it hasn't? It should show a warning on the DSP screen when you go over a limit and will only let you jog away from it.


Shannon.

What I should also ask is do the numbers on the DSP keep changing when the gantry has stopped (most likely a jam or something) or is it that the DSP doesn't respond to the key press or is thinking that it has reached the limit when it hasn't? It should show a warning on the DSP screen when you go over a limit and will only let you jog away from it.


Shannon.

The DSP doesn't show the warning that it went over the limit (I know what you mean, I get that message when I move the z-axis to far). It stops and it shows the x-coordinate numbers.

The numbers on the DSP are each time different when it stops (range between 5 and 8 centimeter if I recall correct).

Once it has stopped, I think the DSP detects the key I press because the upper-right text MANL changes very briefly to STOP each time I press a key. [EDIT : I THINK IT DISPLAYS "STEP" AND NOT "STOP" ]

So maybe a jam like you say? I have inspected it for a short moment but it seems okay. Can it be that the hiwin-rails are from that point a little bit to close (or to far) from each other so the hiwin-guideways get stuck? I hope to look at it again within a few hours.

I don't think it would be the Hiwin rails, most likely the gear mesh on the rack and pinion being a little tight, if its not binding the only other thing might be a software issue in the DSP itself.

The aluminium on the gantry is machined parallel, so if you look directly at the front of it where the rails touch it, there shouldn't be any gaps or even a noticeable kink in the rails or anything.

Another idea I just had is that if there is an intermittent connection or broken wire in the cable chain, then it could show up as something similar to what you are saying. I would guess that it could even be inside the z-axis unit cover (ie the stepper motor plug??)

The good side is that when something like this goes wrong you end up learning a whole lot more about your CNC, its still a pain in the neck sometimes though :D.

Shannon.

Ok I tried my machine out and it does the same thing, I usually don't go right to the limits when in any of the HIGH jog modes (step, dist, cont.). In LOW mode it jogs right to the limits fine. I don't think it is too much of an issue in practice as the XY-0 is usually the corner of the sheet and I set it in from the home about 100mm.

Most of the time you should be using the jog to set the XY-0 and so then you can push ORIGIN and the machine will go back to the XY-0.


Shannon.

Ok I tried my machine out and it does the same thing, I usually don't go right to the limits when in any of the HIGH jog modes (step, dist, cont.). In LOW mode it jogs right to the limits fine. I don't think it is too much of an issue in practice as the XY-0 is usually the corner of the sheet and I set it in from the home about 100mm.

Most of the time you should be using the jog to set the XY-0 and so then you can push ORIGIN and the machine will go back to the XY-0.


Shannon.

Hello Shannon,

Thanks for all the trouble you take with helping me, I especially appreciate that you have tried it with your machine. Mmm, I did not use the HIGH/LOW button yet, but I know my dsp was in high-mode.

Yes, it will be logicall to keep the material a little bit away from the sides so like you say, in practice it will be just fine.

Today it is my daughter's birthday so the house will be full with friends and family. Not much time for the machine today but I have took the day off tomorrow so I can have all lthe time to do more testing. I hope to get my first results tomorrow. Will post some pictures of it :)

Regards,
Marco

No trouble at all, I only noticed it when turing the acceleration right down low, the machine would go to about 300mm away from each side and no closer :D:D. Once I reset the settings back, lo and behold it had the same thing as yours was doing. I think it is part of the DSP software to stop the machine crashing into the hard stops at high speed.

I use the high for basic positioning and then switch to low for a more accurate placement, then finally into step mode for a really accurate position. Then I XY-0 the machine.

Shannon.

Hello,

Today I machined my first blanks :)
I used some artwork I found, I am working on my own original artwork but for now a few internet-examples will do : I only want to see if my machine-computer communications is okay and if it responds okay to the postprocessor. And of course to see if I am impressed with the possibilities. Well, I AM!

I have included a few pictures. In the last picture I made twice the mistake of forgetting to z-zero after I had changed the router bit. :o You can see that the end mill was going a bit to deep, and it damaged the outerring. The workpiece is not important, I just hope this was the last time I made that mistake (I doubt it...)

It is an exciting machine! Can't wait to do some more testruns :)

Looks great, keep the pictures coming.

Shannon.

hi guys!

just found you, and glad i did. have a 1325 that i bought from taney two years ago. love the machine, but have never got the settings right i guess. i can't get it to rapid while traveling, and from day one, if i set the speeds for the dsp above 7500, i guarantee i'll stick the z axis through the table. (done it twice already).

i would love some help with these most likely simple set up problems. been cutting from day one, just not the way it is supposed to be.

Hello all,

I have a little problem :

When I run a programm, the DSP turns the spindle on at max speed. When I tried to alter the speed with the knob (or the arrow-keys) on the frequency inverter, it did not response at all. So I checked the manual and it turned out that one of the parameters (PR01) on the frequency inverter was causing this : I changed the value to 00 (should have been hte factory setting?!) which means " Operation determined by digital keypad". This helps a lot, I can now turn on the spindle on the freq.inverter and turn the knob or use the arrow keys to control spindle speed.

But...when I run a programm from the usb stick, the DSP seems to send a "max speed" command or something, because the spindle will speed up to 300 (*60=18000 rpm). And the speed stays at maximum, no matter what I try on the freq.inverter.

I have even edited the G-code and removed (or lowered) the S(peed) parameter, but it doesn't seem to affect the operation.

I really need low-speed routing now, because I want to make myself a nice dustshoe from Acrylic (and I don't think I can rout that at high speed).

Any suggestion what I am doing wrong? Is there a setting in the DSP maybe that I need to alter?

Regards,
Marco

Marco,

I am not sure about the inverter settings, but if you have a sharp cutter you should be able to cut acrylic at max rpm. Just keep your feed rates higher to prevent melting, With a 6mm single flute cutter you should be around 1.5 - 3.0 m/min at the slowest, a faster feed if you are using a double flute cutter. If the plastic is melting, the cutter is too blunt or you are feeding to slow. If the edge of the acrylic is chipping and the cutter is sharp the feed is too high. Personally I have found that acrylic is reasonably forgiving of feed rates.

Shannon.

Marco,

I am not sure about the inverter settings, but if you have a sharp cutter you should be able to cut acrylic at max rpm. Just keep your feed rates higher to prevent melting, With a 6mm single flute cutter you should be around 1.5 - 3.0 m/min at the slowest, a faster feed if you are using a double flute cutter. If the plastic is melting, the cutter is too blunt or you are feeding to slow. If the edge of the acrylic is chipping and the cutter is sharp the feed is too high. Personally I have found that acrylic is reasonably forgiving of feed rates.

Shannon.

Great, I will give it a try! I have the day off to make that dush shoe and didn't expect to run in the spindle-speed problem. So I will try what works best on a small piece. Of course I will post pictures of the dus shoe when it is ready. I am not certain on how to attach it to the router so I will probably run into a few other issues but I will first machine the base where the hose will attach.

Thanks!

Marco,

I am not sure about the inverter settings, but if you have a sharp cutter you should be able to cut acrylic at max rpm. Just keep your feed rates higher to prevent melting, With a 6mm single flute cutter you should be around 1.5 - 3.0 m/min at the slowest, a faster feed if you are using a double flute cutter. If the plastic is melting, the cutter is too blunt or you are feeding to slow. If the edge of the acrylic is chipping and the cutter is sharp the feed is too high. Personally I have found that acrylic is reasonably forgiving of feed rates.

Shannon.
Hello,
You were absolutely right! I tried an old cutter and it didn't work to well (the acrylic melted to my cutter), and then I tried a brand new 2 flute cutter and everything worked out fine. Thanks for the help :)

Ok, a picture from my dust shoe so far. It is not finished of course (as you can see) but maybe you get the idea. I hope it will work. Tomorrow I will try to continue with it.

I only had 4mm acrylic but I wanted it to be thicker. So I glued 2 pieces together. It works, but isn't very pretty (you can see air-bubbles, and you can see the glue isn't everywhere). But for my dustshoe it is good enough (for now).

Hello,

Don't know if anybody is interested, but I thought I would post a few pictures of my dust shoe progress. I am not happy yet with the long things that should prevent the shoe from lowering (the shoe has a tite fit around the spindle, so it stays on without those long things). I will probably change something there.

I have bend the acrylic which wasn't even that hard (I had never done it before). Now I still need to install the brushes. Well, not brushes actually, but I don't know the English word for it. This is what I mean :
http://www.energy-technic.com/Strokengordijnen.jpg
I will use a small piece, it is very flexible (only 2mm thick). I hope it works.

Regards
Marco

Looking good, keep the pics coming.


Shannon.

I use brushes that I got from Sealeze they are bendable and give me a nice seal.

Ok guys,

I have just received an email back from Taney at Excitech with prices for the SHM0609 CNC router and additional parts.
Although the machine description says (Ucancam software and Type3) so I don't know if the software is included or if it has to be added to the total cost. He is getting back to me on the shipping cost in to Tasmania.
It all seems pretty cheap. Would have been even cheaper before the Aussie dollar turned to sh!t.
I'm going to find out about a few other extras like an up rated spindle motor and a tool setter option.
What are your thoughts on the Type3 software?

Regards,
Dave.

What are your thoughts on the Type3 software?

Regards,
Dave.

My type3 manual was in chinese and the software wasn't all that helpful, I used Ucancam for a few months and got very sick of the bugs. Ucan cam doesn't like large complicated files, it would close on me for no apparent reason. you can use the supplied software to make things, its just the bugs gets annoying.

I now have V-carve pro and its far far better.

Shannon.

G'day Guys,

Just out of interest, does anyone know why the Excitech SHM0609 which has a 600mm x 900mm working area has a table size of 1560mm x 1050mm which is heaps bigger than the working size. I am wondering if the 0609 machine is the same machine that they use for a bigger machine - say 1200 x 900 work area - and they just fit shorter axis drives or different software or even just move the limits in to save having to make a whole new machine for just one size? Any ideas or thoughts on this? Has anyone seen one this size?
Could I buy a 600 x 900 machine only to find that when I get it here I only need to move the limit switches to gain some working area?

Dave.

Hi Dave,

I think the bed is only 890x1200, at least is says so here.
http://www.webshcnc.com/english/6096s.asp

Usually the bed is bigger that the machinable area to allow for the mechanics of the machine, My 1530 has a machinable area of 1560x3200 but the bed is closer to 4 meters long.

Shannon.

G'day Shannon,

I did see that one which is what made me wonder if this one was the same:
http://www.webshcnc.com/english/6096m.asp
I have just received a confirmation from Taney and the SHM does infact have the 1560 x 1050 size table. It seems like a bit of a waste of space really.
I tried to attach a photo of the new machine but couldn't get it to work :confused::confused::confused:
How do I attach a Bloomin' picture??? (chair)

Click go advanced and there should be a button 'manage attachments'

Shannon.

Thats what I did but it gets about half way through up loading and cuts out every time.

Thats what I did but it gets about half way through up loading and cuts out every time.

Maybe the Max. filesize (500Kb) is the problem, or otherwise maybe your picture is larger than 1000x1000?

What are your thoughts on the Type3 software?



I have not even installed it yet :o
Because I had to wait for a few months for the machine to arrive, I wanted to start learning the software in the mean time. But beacuse my Type3 software would also take a few months to arrive, I started with the trail version of VcarvePro. And it is a great programm, I can recommend it. But I have also tried Artcam which has lots of possibilities (especially 2.5D) but is quite complex (in my opinion though :drowning:)

G'day,

No I checked all of that. The picture is only 166kb and size is 691 x 518
I have just tried it again and it still drops out about half way trough the upload. :confused:

Dave.

I load my photos onto photobucket first and have no problems.

Like this -http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff331/excitechcnc/DSC00907.jpg

rocket, have you checked out aspire by vectric?
i have it now and it is worth it

jim

Jim, i had a look at it when you mentioned it a few weeks back. Sure looks to be impressive.

In reality, the V Carve Pro is all we need for the work that we do. Ramon is going to teach me how to use the software during December. Once i know how to use it properly it may be possible for me to make a few special pieces. Then i will really get into it and hopefully get the Aspire software as well. Started to work on it before i took ill, so have to start all over again. Looking forward to it.

Rocket.

Rocket

I use VcarvePro. Be sure to set aside about 4 hours to learn you way around VcarvePro.

I suggest you allocate the 4 hours this way to get the best use of your time.
45 minutes getting up to speed with VcarvePro and 3 hours 15 minutes talking about how easy VcarvePro is to use and any war stories you and your friend have to tell.

Great software.

PS. It may take longer than 4 hours, depending on the war stories.:)

Rocket

I use VcarvePro. Be sure to set aside about 4 hours to learn you way around VcarvePro.

I suggest you allocate the 4 hours this way to get the best use of your time.
45 minutes getting up to speed with VcarvePro and 3 hours 15 minutes talking about how easy VcarvePro is to use and any war stories you and your friend have to tell.

Great software.

PS. It may take longer than 4 hours, depending on the war stories.:)

Hi lovebug, We have been using V Carve Pro for almost a year - although we - is actually Ramon who works for us part time. He is in his last month at Uni, and next year will be employed in the computer industry. That means i am now the chosen one to operate our Excitech next year. Have only had a computer for a couple of years and know SFA about CAD/CAM programs, and how on earth do i learn about files and folders?
Guess it is about time. Have been putting it off all year! So i now have one month to become an expert. Should be fun! LOL!

Rocket.
http://cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif

we'll teach you

lesson one

create design for door, save as afile in a folder named "closet doors", create door #2 save in same folder.



create garage door (file) save in floder named Garage doors, create door # 2
for garages save in same folder!!

jim

No worries mate - First the closet door, then the garage door, then the kitchen door, followed by the dunny door!! What happens when i run out of doors??????????http://cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif

Thanks Jim, i get the general idea. Forum member Matty Zee works close by and has helped Ramon to create a program which automatically calculates the sizes required for each panel. Really does make it quite easy.

I have already had a few sessions in front of the computer with Ramon. Problem is the constant interruptions from the office, so during December we will put the " do not interrupt " sign on the factory door. LOL. If i concentrate on it and practice at night instead of surfing the net all the time it should work out ok.

Rocket.

Well I have finally finished my conversion,
From CN DSP to mach 3 on my shg1312 Router.

And well worth the effort.
I have attached a couple of photos.

The setup,
A eeepc with touch screen running mach3 controlling the smooth stepper and
DC-03 digispeed controlling the VFD, a home made pendant with a laser guide (just to zero the XY axis quickly(thanks to a few guys on the mach forum).
All the same hardware that came with the SHG 1312 ,steppers ,drives,and a extra homing switch on the slaved axis to square it,etc etc.

and all at this stage working excellent ,fingers crossed.
Just have to find some work for it now?


Regards
Jubee

Hi guys,
I'm following this thread from the beginning.... I'm also a user of an exitech SHG1212 with DSP.
Now we want to buy a more serious machine like the SHMS 1325 C, but we're quite afraid about the Syntec controller. I'm very curious to hear from Gerrit about his version with the LNC controller. Searching for alternatives to the exitech routers I found "Jinshengxing" routers (english name seems "superstar", equipped with LNC controller and, by the way, at very interesting prices.
Anyone knows them? Maybe someone has experiences with it....?
thanks, Heiko

Hi guys,
I'm following this thread from the beginning.... I'm also a user of an exitech SHG1212 with DSP.
Now we want to buy a more serious machine like the SHMS 1325 C, but we're quite afraid about the Syntec controller. I'm very curious to hear from Gerrit about his version with the LNC controller. Searching for alternatives to the exitech routers I found "Jinshengxing" routers (english name seems "superstar", equipped with LNC controller and, by the way, at very interesting prices.
Anyone knows them? Maybe someone has experiences with it....?
thanks, Heiko

We got the machine finaly just 3 days ago. Unpacking the big box, putting it level, attaching it to the 400V net was a matter of hours, but it is not running yet. It seems to have the same "gantry not square" problems as others had which in this case results in an "error 18" message on one of the Y axis servo drivers (Panasonic). This seems to be the overheating of a load resistor in one Y servo which is breaking, while the other servo is pushing.
Hope to solve that problem soon. This machine should be working and not sittin'.

About the LNC controler a cannot say much. We did not use it for any thing else than homing. With information from the manual it was possible to set it from Chinese to English. To attach it to ethernet was not straightforward. The manual I got missed the right paragraph. I got that from Taney so it should be ease now.

As it is running, I'll let you know more.

Gerrit

After 7 days of trial and error and a lot of help from Excitech and Panasonic, the router is starting to be cooperative. Now we would like to try Cabinetpartspro. Is any of you guys using that? Any idea which postprocessor to use?

There was at least one big surprise: the central lubrication system for all the bearings.

Gerrit

i am using cabinet parts pro with great success for 250.00 it can do the job, look for the site and down load the videos, if you cannot find them let me know

jim

i am using cabinet parts pro with great success for 250.00 it can do the job, look for the site and down load the videos, if you cannot find them let me know

jim


Thanks Jim, I found them. Did you have to adapt the postprocessor? Or is there one that works with an Excitech?

Gerrit

Wanted to do some real work on the CNC. We thought that we solved the problem with Y axis servo errors but despite added resistors on the drives, today we got a few errors again. Looking for the real cause we measured how square the gantry supports are to the gantry and could not believe our eyes. One side is OK, but the other one is far from square. The end of the gantry is not machined square, causing the support not being square as well. When setting this support parallel to the rails, the gantry is out of square by 8-9 mm at the opposite end. Setting the gantry square to the table and the rails means the support is not parallel to the rails. This probably causes a lot of friction, and thus errors.

Also the ATC can not find the right position (The dusthood seems to have had an other life already).

Something must have gone seriously wrong at the Quality Control Department at Excitec.

I am really curious about how - and how fast - this is going to be solved.

Gerrit

My CNC seemed to have the same issue about the gantry not being square, only mine was out about 2mm.

Shannon.

Hi Shannon, how did you solve it?

Gerrit

Not sure what I did that seemed to fix it as I never got around to actually trying. I would just push the gantry onto the stops at the home end before I powered it up and then it would stay square. I think I also packed one of the stops a little so that it would be in the correct position. I haven't actually tested the squareness lately, but it does seem to sit on the stops without any pressure now, whereas it used to need to be held in place when the power was turned on.

I have a job to cut tomorrow that needs to be square so I will be checking the machine before I start cutting.

For a permanent fix I would suggest shims under the ends of the gantry cross member. or a manual tweaking in the opposite direction of the error. The Aluminium used is a really low grade and quite soft.

Shannon.

hi guys!

just found you, and glad i did. have a 1325 that i bought from taney two years ago. love the machine, but have never got the settings right i guess. i can't get it to rapid while traveling, and from day one, if i set the speeds for the dsp above 7500, i guarantee i'll stick the z axis through the table. (done it twice already).

i would love some help with these most likely simple set up problems. been cutting from day one, just not the way it is supposed to be.
any takers on this one? does anyone have the old style dsp controller like mine? Taney, if you're out there, is there a model number for my DSP? Any upgrades available for me?

hi guys!

just found you, and glad i did. have a 1325 that i bought from taney two years ago. love the machine, but have never got the settings right i guess. i can't get it to rapid while traveling, and from day one, if i set the speeds for the dsp above 7500, i guarantee i'll stick the z axis through the table. (done it twice already).

i would love some help with these most likely simple set up problems. been cutting from day one, just not the way it is supposed to be.


I am using my Excitech for a short period now, but isn't 7500 a little bit to fast? I am traveling at 5500 (if I recall correct) and routing at 2000-2500 or something like that, depending on the job?

I have installed my dust hose this week. I have used the same approach as Shannon did (hope you don't mind Shannon :o ). Please look at the pictures what I mean.
It works very well! But the dust shoe will probably be changed (not sure yet what is best). I will explain later why I am not happy.
Regards
Marco

I am using my Excitech for a short period now, but isn't 7500 a little bit to fast? I am traveling at 5500 (if I recall correct) and routing at 2000-2500 or something like that, depending on the job?

I have my rapid speed set to 15,000mm/min and have been cutting Mdf at up to 8000mm/min.

No worries about copying the dust support, they do say that imitation is the best form of flattery :D:D

Shannon.

any takers on this one? does anyone have the old style dsp controller like mine? Taney, if you're out there, is there a model number for my DSP? Any upgrades available for me?

Hi Brad, I would also set your homing speed to 3000mm/min or below, this should stop the gantry slamming home too fast. (email didnt go through)

Shannon.

Hi Brad, I would also set your homing speed to 3000mm/min or below, this should stop the gantry slamming home too fast. (email didnt go through)

Shannon.

Thanks Shannon, it doesn't slam at 6500mm/min, just takes forever to get there.

any takers on this one? does anyone have the old style dsp controller like mine? Taney, if you're out there, is there a model number for my DSP? Any upgrades available for me?


Hi Brad,

Like we discussed before, we recommend the operater to set the Z axis speed in 3m/min, maybe a few machines could even reach to 7 or 8 meters, but the machine will shaking with noise and we don't recommend.

Thanks Shannon, it doesn't slam at 6500mm/min, just takes forever to get there.

I usually use the keypad to rapid the machine closer if its too far away, or just home the machine while I am setting up tooling so it can take as long as it likes:D

Shannon.

Hi Brad,

Like we discussed before, we recommend the operater to set the Z axis speed in 3m/min, maybe a few machines could even reach to 7 or 8 meters, but the machine will shaking with noise and we don't recommend.

Taney,

Like we discussed, I have the z axis set at 2000 mm/min and still have a problem. When I download a file with a process feed of 7500, travel speed of 7500, and down speed ratio of .4 the z axis looses control by moving down to the table too fast. When this happens, the x and y axis do not move, the z axis just continues to move down and into the table beyond zero. The only way to stop this is with an emergency stop.

Here are my current settings

pulse equivalent
x = 127.3 y = 127.3 z = 400

auto start speed
x, y, and z are 100 mm/min

manual start speed
x,y, and z are 300 mm/min

Start speed = 4000 sec

High speed step .05 mm/min

Low speed step 0.1 mm/min

Home speed
x = 10000 mm/min y = 10000 mm/min z = 2000 mm/min

Low manual speed
x = 5000 mm/min y = 5000 mm/min z = 1000 mm/min

High manual speed
x = 20000 mm/min y = 20000 mm/min z = 2000 mm/min

Screw interspace
x, y, and z are 0 mm

Home Acceleration
x, y, and z are 500 mm/sec2

Manual Acceleration at low speed
x, y, and z are 500 mm/sec2

Manual Acceleration at high speed
x, y, and z are 500 mm/sec2

Auto acceleration
x, y and z are 400 mm/sec2

I/O voltage
input and output voltage is 00000000

Z up height is 10000 mm

Least angle
150 de

Speed reduce .8

Shortest length of long
3 mm

Home direction
Z+ is the only one checked

Taney,

Like we discussed, I have the z axis set at 2000 mm/min and still have a problem. When I download a file with a process feed of 7500, travel speed of 7500, and down speed ratio of .4 the z axis looses control by moving down to the table too fast. When this happens, the x and y axis do not move, the z axis just continues to move down and into the table beyond zero. The only way to stop this is with an emergency stop.

Here are my current settings

pulse equivalent
x = 127.3 y = 127.3 z = 400

auto start speed
x, y, and z are 100 mm/min

manual start speed
x,y, and z are 300 mm/min

Start speed = 4000 sec

High speed step .05 mm/min

Low speed step 0.1 mm/min

Home speed
x = 10000 mm/min y = 10000 mm/min z = 2000 mm/min

Low manual speed
x = 5000 mm/min y = 5000 mm/min z = 1000 mm/min

High manual speed
x = 20000 mm/min y = 20000 mm/min z = 2000 mm/min

Screw interspace
x, y, and z are 0 mm

Home Acceleration
x, y, and z are 500 mm/sec2

Manual Acceleration at low speed
x, y, and z are 500 mm/sec2

Manual Acceleration at high speed
x, y, and z are 500 mm/sec2

Auto acceleration
x, y and z are 400 mm/sec2

I/O voltage
input and output voltage is 00000000

Z up height is 10000 mm

Least angle
150 de

Speed reduce .8

Shortest length of long
3 mm

Home direction
Z+ is the only one checked

Hi Brad,



Have you checked the wire connections of Z stepper motor to driver? Any wire break? The belt which connected with Z axis motor and gear loose? and maybe you can try to change the cable of Y and Z driver to see if it is still the same? If use different files, the problem same?

About the parameters, the Home speed we recommend X=3000 Y=3000 Z=2000 and High speed we recommend X=15000mm/min Y=15000mm/min Z=15000mm/min

Hi Brad,



Have you checked the wire connections of Z stepper motor to driver? Any wire break? The belt which connected with Z axis motor and gear loose? and maybe you can try to change the cable of Y and Z driver to see if it is still the same? If use different files, the problem same?

About the parameters, the Home speed we recommend X=3000 Y=3000 Z=2000 and High speed we recommend X=15000mm/min Y=15000mm/min Z=15000mm/min

Taney,

everything works fine at lower speeds, I only have a problem above 7500 mm/min which is only half of the advertised capability.

Well I have finally finished my conversion,
From CN DSP to mach 3 on my shg1312 Router.

And well worth the effort.
I have attached a couple of photos.

The setup,
A eeepc with touch screen running mach3 controlling the smooth stepper and
DC-03 digispeed controlling the VFD, a home made pendant with a laser guide (just to zero the XY axis quickly(thanks to a few guys on the mach forum).
All the same hardware that came with the SHG 1312 ,steppers ,drives,and a extra homing switch on the slaved axis to square it,etc etc.

and all at this stage working excellent ,fingers crossed.
Just have to find some work for it now?


Regards
Jubee

Hi there.
I have been chewing on the same approach now for to long... I was considering "The brain" setup for my 1312, but I was kind of afraid to go alone in this direction.

So I guess my question is; Would it be possible to share the setup with me in details ? I would in case start ordering bit's so I'm hopefully able to get my machine fully 4th axis compatible :)

I'll drop you a email if that is OK ?

Kent

Hi Kent,
Yes,send us a email I can let you know what I have/did etc etc.
I havnt looked back since setting it up to run under Mach.
working very well with no problems,yet.
Regards
Jubee.

There was at least one big surprise: the central lubrication system for all the bearings.

Gerrit

HI , anyone have info on how these centralized lubrication works - I want to presently connect all my ball screws with a similar system,

any links for constructing one will help.

Sorry for being off topic here

RGDS
Irfan

rocket started this thread in nov 07, i joined shortly thereafter and started my cnc quest, yester day we installed the last components, named it "tony the tower"

jim

Jim, Congratulations mate - it looks superb.

Looking back just over one year - you have done an incredible amount of work in getting up to speed in the cnc router world.

Hope your machines make you lots of money.

We still rate the purchase of our Excitech to be one of our best business decisions.

Rocket.

rocket started this thread in nov 07, i joined shortly thereafter and started my cnc quest, yester day we installed the last components, named it "tony the tower"

jim

If there is anything better than a CNC router, its TWO CNC routers. Great looking setup there Jim.:cheers:

Shannon.

thanks fellows after all you both inspired me!!

jim

Hello Everyone,

I have made some things in the past weeks, but nothing really exciting (so I did not post pictures, sorry). But the next project will be a celtic cross, and I can't wait to start. Here is a picture :

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q263/arcadeoriginals/CelticCross.jpg

Of course, pictures will follow of this one :-)


Anyway, today I made a (what is the English word...) grating (?) for my sister. Here in Holland many buildings have the heating in the floor. In the floor is such a grating to cover it. Anyway, this is what I made :

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q263/arcadeoriginals/DSC01298.jpg

I had to make 3. When I was busy with the second, we had a power failure. To bad...but my question is, is there an easy way of finding the exact XY-home again ? I would like to start my programm and finish this piece. I am thinking of running the programm just above my workpiece and manually try to change the xy-home until it matches the pattern. But this is quite difficult to see.

In the future, is it an idea to drill a hole in the XY-home position, and then startbthe program? If something goes wrong, I can move the router above the hole (without turning the router on!) and then carefully let the bit find the hole. That would be my xy-home.

I hope you understand what I am trying to explain/ask.

Any suggestions anyone?

Regards,
Marco

Hello Everyone,


In the future, is it an idea to drill a hole in the XY-home position, and then startbthe program? If something goes wrong, I can move the router above the hole (without turning the router on!) and then carefully let the bit find the hole. That would be my xy-home.

I hope you understand what I am trying to explain/ask.

Any suggestions anyone?

Regards,
Marco

Marco; This trick is used by many - me included. I found it out by reading about a user which run in to problems when he was milling on a 4th axis.
Try it out and in case it happens again - you might save you're self some materials :)

Are you happy with you're 1312 now? Did you sort all you're porblems?

I'm still looking for that re-work to get my machine on to a PC system.
Kent

Marco; This trick is used by many - me included. I found it out by reading about a user which run in to problems when he was milling on a 4th axis.
Try it out and in case it happens again - you might save you're self some materials :)

Are you happy with you're 1312 now? Did you sort all you're porblems?

I'm still looking for that re-work to get my machine on to a PC system.
Kent

Hi Kent,

Thanks for the fast reply! Ok, I will try not to forget to mark that home position from now on! I just thought that maybe another option is to first turn the machine on, send it home, then press XY-0. Then goto the place where the material is and when you are at the home position you like, FIRST write down the coordinates before pressing XY-0 again. Could work?

Absolutely! I am VERY pleased with my 1312, a great machine ! I don;t have any problems anymore, everything is working fine. 2009 will be an exciting year, I have done a lot of testng with the software and hardware the last 2 months and now I am beginning to start the serious work. I hope to post some pictures soon :-)

>> I'm still looking for that re-work to get my machine on to a PC system.
I am affraid I can;t help you with that. But I am interested in how it goes.


Thanks again
Marco

I hope you understand what I am trying to explain/ask.

Any suggestions anyone?

Regards,
Marco

Ik zou niet weten waarom ze het niet konden verstaan je engels is heel erg goed!

Hi Kent,

Thanks for the fast reply! Ok, I will try not to forget to mark that home position from now on! I just thought that maybe another option is to first turn the machine on, send it home, then press XY-0. Then goto the place where the material is and when you are at the home position you like, FIRST write down the coordinates before pressing XY-0 again. Could work?


Thanks again
Marco

Marco,

On my machine once you have started the machine and send it to home, you should be able to press the origin button and it will go the the position of the previous XY-0 point. I have had mine turned off overnight and come back the next day and started cutting without having to reset the XY-0 point by doing this.

Shannon.

Marco,

On my machine once you have started the machine and send it to home, you should be able to press the origin button and it will go the the position of the previous XY-0 point. I have had mine turned off overnight and come back the next day and started cutting without having to reset the XY-0 point by doing this.

Shannon.

Is it that simple?! That would be great, that is good news, maybe I can finish my workpiece now and don't have to start over!

I shall look at my DSP with new interest, I totally missed this function :confused:

joey, created a wincnc button for us we call that "job home"

jim

Ik zou niet weten waarom ze het niet konden verstaan je engels is heel erg goed!

Haha, that is funny, but I am affraid only dutch people can read it :)

Marco,

On my machine once you have started the machine and send it to home, you should be able to press the origin button and it will go the the position of the previous XY-0 point. I have had mine turned off overnight and come back the next day and started cutting without having to reset the XY-0 point by doing this.

Shannon.

IT WORKS ! :):):):):)
Many thanks again Shannon! I thought I had to throw away my workpiece and start all over again, but you have come to the rescue again :cheers:

Haha, that is funny, but I am affraid only dutch people can read it :)

Or there is also google language tools for use who don't speak dutch :D:D

Good to hear the origin worked for you.

Shannon.

Taney,

everything works fine at lower speeds, I only have a problem above 7500 mm/min which is only half of the advertised capability.
Still messing with the speed problem. This is where I usually stop, and go back to doing it the slow way and give up. Not this time. I know it has to be something simple, does anyone have the same controller as me? I tried a few tests this evening. Here's what I found out. I have the option of process speed, and travel speed when I download a file to the DSP. If I set the travel speed or the process speed above 6500 mm/min, and I set Z about 4" above the table, it seems to work. If I set Z=0 at the table surface, the Z drive ignores the safe Z and continues to accelerate past Z=0. It seems that the Z acceleration is set too fast and it passes right through the safe area. I have no idea why. I have sent my settings to Taney and he didn't comment that I had something set too fast. I did try this: When I press Run, then my file number, the name of the file appears. A few seconds later, the process, travel and down ratio speeds appear along with the percentage at which i choose to operate from .1 percent up to 1.0. If I press menu at this point, I get a display that shows Work Accel and three numbers are displayed. It looks like x, y, and z. They are all 400.00. I have not found a place to adjust this number.
If I change the down speed ratio, it has no affect. If I change the process speed percentage, it has no affect.

Here's another question, hope I haven't posed too many already. On the ZHUSBConnect software, under system maintenance, set system parameters, there are two columns.
The first shows the dimensional limits, and the second shows speed limit. Oddly enough, I haven't questioned this area yet. All of the speed limit options are set to the same number - are you ready for this? 1e+006 - what the frick does this mean?

Brad,

I think the 1e+006 is the same as 1,000,000 or 1 + 6 decimal places.
What are you machining at over 6500mm/min? The only stuff I run that fast is MDF and plywood with a 1/4" cutter or bigger. My travel speeds are set a lot higher than that though :D

Do you have the older style gray DSP?

Shannon.

Brad,

I think the 1e+006 is the same as 1,000,000 or 1 + 6 decimal places.
What are you machining at over 6500mm/min? The only stuff I run that fast is MDF and plywood with a 1/4" cutter or bigger. My travel speeds are set a lot higher than that though :D

Do you have the older style gray DSP?

Shannon.

Shannon,

Thanks for the quick follow up. Your answer to 1e+006 sounds logical, but I'm not sure what a number that large is doing in the system.
Plywood is a big item for me. I cut 12mm birch single pass with 1/4" compression bits as fast as I can go, which hasn't been very fast yet. I think I can go to 10k mm/min before braking the bit. Then, I'll whip out my 3/8" compression bits and go even faster. My main concern is rapid travel speeds. I would really like to see it jump from point to point faster than just the cutting speed.
I do have the older gray DSP.

Hello there,
I started on the Celtic Cross I spoke of earlier.
I made a very stipd mistake when I joined the wood with lamello's. Didn't think of it at all and of course those lamello's will get in sight when I start to remove wood. Oh well, I will continue for now to see what other problems I run into. I will probably have to start over if I am not happy in the end.

Anyway, I have a question. In the picture you see where I need a ballnose/round nose type cutter with a long shaft (otherwise my routerhead will bump into the relief that lies next to it. (green arrows). Most ballnose cutters I found on the internet have short shaft or if they are longer, then they are thicker above the cutting lenght.
1/8" (3mm) would be the maximum thickness I am looking for. I need a shaft of at least 2.5 inch. I wonder if these even exist?

Is the relief on my design to heavily or have I just not found the right source for my cutters...? Any suggestions are very welcome :-)
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=73925&stc=1&d=1232265743

You can have a look at www.ketele.com. This Belgian Firm has a lot in stock, already found some interesting stuff there, but they are quite expensive.

Regards,

Gerrit

onsrud taper ballnose cutters are listed as the 77-100 series look for 102 104 etc, they have all sizes and lengths

https://www.onsrud.com/xdoc/TaperBits

another here

http://beckwithdecor.com/index_files/Cutters.htm

jim

onsrud taper ballnose cutters are listed as the 77-100 series look for 102 104 etc, they have all sizes and lengths

https://www.onsrud.com/xdoc/TaperBits

another here

http://beckwithdecor.com/index_files/Cutters.htm

jim

Thanks for those adresses guys! Those taper bits are new for me, I will examine if they will be the solution for the problem :-)))
Thanks again!
Marco

a taper bit allows for some precut on the next row it can help relive stress on the bit

Hi everyone, long time member first time poster.

Sorry for interrupting the beautiful cross work but just wanted to add something regarding the Excitech machines.

I have wanted a decent cnc machine for a while and after reviewing this thread I researched the Excitech machine SHG1325. Special thanks to

RODM1954 - one of the most knowledgeable and skilled cnc maker I know
ROCKET67 - for starting this thread and the reply email aswell
KSEALEY - ken, for letting me interrupt his weekend and give me a look at his machine

I contacted Taney via email and from there purchased my machine. Taney gives the sort of service I wished we would get here in Australia. Nothing is too much trouble and he explains everything that happens in the process.

The process follows the following.

1) get quote from Taney (note price will be in US$), make sure you get the correct voltage/phases for your country when you order your machine

2) transfer deposit , with balance due a week or so before shipping. This was good for me because I could monitor the US$ rate and transfer when it was higher.

3) Contact a customs broker to control the import of the freight into the country. Be prepared for a decent charge here because in Australia we get charged GST , import duty, port charges etc etc so its a little expensive (cost me AUD$3,500) but some of that was due to bad exchange rate etc. But even if you add that to the price of the machine its well worth it.

4) I used LCL (freight where the machine is shared in a freight container with other goods). Was worried about damage but the way the unit was packed was so good it arrived perfect, even the crate wasnt scratched :o)

5) The customs broker should organise delivery and with my unit it was delivered by a hiab (truck with crane on). He dropped it off the truck and while it was in the air I put wheels on the legs and just rolled it into my garage.

Cant explain the worry I had with the whole import stuff but it all worked out perfect and the machine is beautiful. Got it started 3 hours after delivery and all axis and spindle work a treat.

Taney thanks so much for everything and if anyone is considering purchasing one of these machines my suggestion is to email Taney and start a dialogue you will be so glad you did. The email i use is
{ Taney tomhua_1@hotmail.com] }

All the best everyone. Sorry I dont have pictures but when I get home and clean up my garage will see if I can snap a few.

Cheers
Troy

Great to see some positive people now posting here.

Troy, that was an excellent post. You explained how to go about purchasing and taking delivery very well. Also agree about Taney - he is a true gentleman and a man of his word.

Our Excitech has now been making us money for over a year, and we are delighted with it.

I have had the pleasure of meeting RodM1954 and also found his knowledge to be incredible. KSEALY ( Ken ) is also a very helpful and dignified man. You have done well to meet with both of them.

One thing you should ensure with your machine is to give it weekly lubrication. Any small problem that we have had was when we failed to maintain our lubrication schedule.

Must admit i have been concerned about the Excitech owner who wants to race his gantry around the table. Why? Quickest way to wreck a machine is to run it flat out all the time!!!

cocobolo, i am in awe of the fantastic work you are doing on your machine.

Happy Exciteching people.

Rocket.

Rocket,

I have the Excitech 1325 with Mach 3, what do you have your machine speed set to for the y axis in inches per min.?

I had to slow mine down a bit but it takes along time to cut.




Roger

Hey Roger,

I wasnt aware of anyone having this working yet. I bought an extra driver for the 4th axis that I was going to try and get working with Mach3.

Do you have a thread explaining how you got Mach3 working with the 1325 ??

Be interested in how you did this.

Cheers
Troy

many of the machines in the us are fitted with mach three it really is not all that difficult. with the steppers it is a breakout board and a computer loaded with mach three. the mach uses a 25pin dbi cable to breakout board

roger you should be able to cut board in two pases at 300-500 ipm with no problems

jim

Hey Roger,

I wasnt aware of anyone having this working yet. I bought an extra driver for the 4th axis that I was going to try and get working with Mach3.

Do you have a thread explaining how you got Mach3 working with the 1325 ??

Be interested in how you did this.

Cheers
Troy


I have been following this thread for quite some time now and I am in the process of negotiating with some China suppliers to import the CNC router.

I have retrofitted various milling and lathe machines using the Mach3 CNC software controller.

Basically, the Chinese suppliers use DSP and/or a PCI card installed in the computer to act as the CNC controller.

Changing the DSP to Mach3 is as simple as using a breakout board with charge pump, spindle control, and various I/Os.

Mach3 is installed in a computer with Windows XP OS and a parallel port. A parallel port cable is then connected between the computer and the breakout board. The output pins (usually Pins # 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 - these give you 4 axes controls) of the breakout board is then assigned and connected to the stepper drivers.

A 4th axis rotary table works the same way as the X, Y, and Z axis with the difference that the 4th axis is configured as A, B, or C axis as angular instead of linear axis.

HTH,
WT

Thanks for the explanation on Mach3, I used this s/ware on my homemade cnc but didnt know if the 5v from the PC would interface to the excitech driver.

Its a Yka2811 on my model and looks like its all 5v signals on this so should be ok. Might try and get the data sheet on this from Yako and probe the pins as they are controlled by the DSP just to make sure.

Thanks again
Troy

i have another machine set up the same way you will not have a problem

jim

Thanks for the explanation on Mach3, I used this s/ware on my homemade cnc but didnt know if the 5v from the PC would interface to the excitech driver.

Its a Yka2811 on my model and looks like its all 5v signals on this so should be ok. Might try and get the data sheet on this from Yako and probe the pins as they are controlled by the DSP just to make sure.

Thanks again
Troy

If you are referring to the Yako Stepper Driver, I believe there are 2 YKA2811 models. The YKA2811MA is a stepper driver with microstepping while YKA2811S is with full and half stepping only. Both can accept AC 60 to 130V power supply and capable of max. 8A output.

If you let me know what specifically you want to know, I may be able to provide the answer somehow.

he is right about the drives, i believe he is refering to the 5v needed for the step and direction, and you are refering to motor powersupply

he is right about the drives, i believe he is refering to the 5v needed for the step and direction, and you are refering to motor powersupply

Based on the spec sheet of the YKA2811MA, I believe I said the Power Supply of 60 to 130v AC is for the Stepper Driver. I didn't say it was for the Stepper Motor.

Anyhow, you are correct that he was referring to the 5v S&D. Some computers output less than 5v (3.3v or so) and if so, you need to buffer it though a BOB.

Hey Cabinet636 and CNCquest,

Thanks again for the reply. Its the MA model that I have and I have attached pictures of the connector. All I am interested in is how to hook the control lines to Mach3.

So I figure the connections will be .

PU+ -> to 5v
PU- -> to step control line from Mach3
DR+ -> to 5v
DR- -> to dir control line from Mach3
MF+ ??
MF- ??

The "N" I am not sure if that indicates a "no connect" and I am not sure what the TM+ / TM- or FL+ / FL- are.

Have requested data sheet from Yako so if I get will add to this thread if anyone wants.

Thanks
Troy

Troy,

Here is the terminal assignment of the YKA2811MA:

And here is the manual...

Kent

and the power in information!!!

jim

i have brought the 5v into the +5v and jumped it as shown

jim

Wow. Thanks everyone. Power of this forum is really amazing. I should be able to get it working now. Hope to add a rotary axis to the table later and think Mach3 would be the way to go to do this.

So thanks for the help everyone.

Cheers
Troy

Well I have finally finished my conversion,
From CN DSP to mach 3 on my shg1312 Router.

The setup,
A eeepc with touch screen running mach3 controlling the smooth stepper and
DC-03 digispeed controlling the VFD, a home made pendant with a laser guide (just to zero the XY axis quickly(thanks to a few guys on the mach forum).

Regards
Jubee

Hi Jubee,

Can you tell me the specs of the eeePC? What model? Is the Touch Screen an addon?

Am I correct that the eeePC doesn't come with a parallel port, and thus you are using the Smooth Stepper? What BOB are you using?

Any additional information you can provide with respect to your eeePC, SS, and BOB setup will be much appreciated.

Thanks,
WT

Hi Jubee,

Can you tell me the specs of the eeePC? What model? Is the Touch Screen an addon?

Am I correct that the eeePC doesn't come with a parallel port, and thus you are using the Smooth Stepper? What BOB are you using?

Any additional information you can provide with respect to your eeePC, SS, and BOB setup will be much appreciated.

Thanks,
WT

I have looked at the same setup but have decided to go for
this version in stead:
www.usbcnc.com
I have been in contact with a user of the same machine as me 1312 and he is very happy. The advantage is that you don't need to buzz around on a funny PC to make the MACH3 real time setup work with some magic touch.
The real time part is in this case handled by the DSP on the chip (CPU4 board) and the control/input could be on which ever PC you like.

Jubee used the CNC4PC board, but any BB could be used as I understand it.
I have been in contact with these boys in this respect
http://www.kelinginc.net/BreakoutBoards.html
but the feedback is - well to say it nice - very short. I ask a lot of questions
which is answered with one line.

Anyway, I'm going for the USBCNC setup and I'll do a update here later..

Kent

I have looked at the same setup but have decided to go for
this version in stead:
www.usbcnc.com
I have been in contact with a user of the same machine as me 1312 and he is very happy. The advantage is that you don't need to buzz around on a funny PC to make the MACH3 real time setup work with some magic touch.
The real time part is in this case handled by the DSP on the chip (CPU4 board) and the control/input could be on which ever PC you like.

Jubee used the CNC4PC board, but any BB could be used as I understand it.
I have been in contact with these boys in this respect
http://www.kelinginc.net/BreakoutBoards.html
but the feedback is - well to say it nice - very short. I ask a lot of questions
which is answered with one line.

Anyway, I'm going for the USBCNC setup and I'll do a update here later..

Kent


Hi Kent,

Thanks for the info on USBCNC. Casual glance at the specs shows some concerns:
75 KHz max. frequency
Pulse width 5 uS
Limited inputs and outputs (?)
Extends of supports and new feature developments

Actually, I have both SS and CNC4PC breakout boards and I am well-versed with Mach3. I am very much at home with Mach3 and I like, in particular, the strong support and active big users group of the Mach3.

As parallel port is getting harder to get in new computers, the SS is a good alternative as it plugs to the USB port and you can have 2 simulated parallel port outputs from the SS.

I am interested to know the experience of Jubee with respect to the eeePC computer with Touch Screen as I have a special application to retro a CNC pipe bender machine. I will most possible take the same route with respect to my intended importation of the China CNC router.

With respect to Keling, you may have to give some allowance :) to his response as I believe English is not his native tongue. You will be better off asking in the Mach forum and/or Yahoo group :)

HTH,
WT

Hi Kent,

Thanks for the info on USBCNC. Casual glance at the specs shows some concerns:
75 KHz max. frequency
Pulse width 5 uS
Limited inputs and outputs (?)
Extends of supports and new feature developments

Actually, I have both SS and CNC4PC breakout boards and I am well-versed with Mach3. I am very much at home with Mach3 and I like, in particular, the strong support and active big users group of the Mach3.

As parallel port is getting harder to get in new computers, the SS is a good alternative as it plugs to the USB port and you can have 2 simulated parallel port outputs from the SS.

I am interested to know the experience of Jubee with respect to the eeePC computer with Touch Screen as I have a special application to retro a CNC pipe bender machine. I will most possible take the same route with respect to my intended importation of the China CNC router.

With respect to Keling, you may have to give some allowance :) to his response as I believe English is not his native tongue. You will be better off asking in the Mach forum and/or Yahoo group :)

HTH,
WT

Sounds like you pretty much have all the things you need :-)

WRT expansion, I'm not looking for having my machine hooked up with more than needed features, I just want the darn machine to control a 4th axis in addition.... Tool sensor is working, jog/dial setup is working and a touch probe could be connected with some really nice way of probing. It do not jerk the Z axis up and down 100's of times to scan something in.
YouTube - USBCNC-917K

The only drawback I can see is that there is no slaving of the axis available, which makes a second homing switch not possible - but for my work most likely not needed. I would not run my machine in Turbo speeds, I find that my machine vibrates a lot and makes it a little scary :-(

Anyway, hope it works out for you.

Kent

kent, i met john at the IWF show in atlanta in august, i had purchased a decent amount of his motors and drives, none of which have failed or even glitched yet!! once when i broke off a resistor on a breakout board and called him to order another he tried to send me another at no charge. i had decided to stichk with my wincnc on that machine and did not need it but i was impressed in how he handled it, recently we had a problem on 11machines where we had "z" drop whic eventually we found it was the type of gecko we were using, he overnighted 8078 drives to the machines and we got all fixed quick, we eventually switched from gecko 210 to 201's and solved the problem!!

i have done business with john for 18 months, he has never not taken a call or returned mine promptly, yes he does speak a funky english and answer in one line sentences, but there is a lot more behind that!!

jim

kent, i met john at the IWF show in atlanta in august, i had purchased a decent amount of his motors and drives, none of which have failed or even glitched yet!! once when i broke off a resistor on a breakout board and called him to order another he tried to send me another at no charge. i had decided to stichk with my wincnc on that machine and did not need it but i was impressed in how he handled it, recently we had a problem on 11machines where we had "z" drop whic eventually we found it was the type of gecko we were using, he overnighted 8078 drives to the machines and we got all fixed quick, we eventually switched from gecko 210 to 201's and solved the problem!!

i have done business with john for 18 months, he has never not taken a call or returned mine promptly, yes he does speak a funky english and answer in one line sentences, but there is a lot more behind that!!

jim

Jim,

I have never talked to the man so I have no idea of his language or anything. I sent him some long email explaining my task with my machine and the only thing I have mentioned was that the feedback was - short.

His web has a lot of goods and I'm sure the steppers and all that is working
fine, I have not even mentioned anything about this so please don't take my
comment out of context.
I was just a little stumbled when I asked if I could expect some help/support WRT of my conversion of the machine.
I received the short answer "You can buy the C11 and smooth stepper" which I'm not sure what his answer is.

Anyway, the mentioned page has a lot of nice tools for us and as mentioned
I have never mentioned anything about quality of any goods what so ever.
I may most likely order his MGP2 even if he answers in one line when he gives a feedback.

Just as a side comment; The owner of USBCNC is total opposite where he gave me a feedback at 22:30 on a Saturday. Simply the most
responsive person I have ever been in contact with, which again makes me feel that I cant go wrong on this..

Kent

i just read the manual for the usbcnc and am highly impressed!!

give me a bit to study it, but it looks through and well built!!

jim

i just read the manual for the usbcnc and am highly impressed!!

give me a bit to study it, but it looks through and well built!!

jim


Jim,

you could just download the SW, knock it in to you're machine and play around with it. It works without the DSP in simulation mode and you could try out with you're own G-code files to see how it works.
Very easy to install and seems to be running without the needed expertise to tweak windows as MACH3 requires.
Bert has a daily work in motion control and in addition developed the USBCNC setup for his private setups.

Kent

Forgot to mention, hit Reset once before you run it due to the simulation mode. Edit: This switches the drivers on.

K

here is the new board by wincnc which is in my new machine, it ain't cheap!!

the software is 1200.00$ and the board another 540.00$ the oter day i asked the machine to do somthing it did not want to do!! and it pop'ed a relay, the camaster fellows and i got online showed them the board with a webcam while the were running my machine online and within minutes we had switched relay's and was up and running!! the correction and no loss of downtime paid for that board in a few minutes!!,

i do like what you are doing and may try the usbcnc board and setup on a us machine

jim

here is the new board by wincnc which is in my new machine, it ain't cheap!!

the software is 1200.00$ and the board another 540.00$ the oter day i asked the machine to do somthing it did not want to do!! and it pop'ed a relay, the camaster fellows and i got online showed them the board with a webcam while the were running my machine online and within minutes we had switched relay's and was up and running!! the correction and no loss of downtime paid for that board in a few minutes!!,

i do like what you are doing and may try the usbcnc board and setup on a us machine

jim

Jim,

As a shop owner with a machinery which brings you the income, I do understand that you add the extra cash for these type of setup. You are not paying for the board, but for the support and the fact that you can just call them and have them doing this online, with very small down time.

However as a hobby user as my self, I would just like to have a setup which is stable, without all the bells and whistles which makes my machine a work horse without the potential of getting stuck with a fancy setup which works but makes me suffer if it breaks :)

By porting the real time part out to the DSP, USBCNC has eliminated the need of a windows machine which must be tweaked to handle the realtime part. I would find it very frustrating to work with a PC which may be delicate to configure and demand a lot of MicroBill/Micro$oft tweaking.
It should be mentioned that I have not used MACH3, so I'm speaking from read experiences, but I guess when you have it working (MACH3) you have it working and never touches the machine again.

BTW, USBCNC has a SDK to support all the extra fancy stuff any one would like to develop them self.

K

Hi,

I know many of you have the Type3 sw with dongle from China and I need a favor for a friend.

The friend imported a CNC router from a China manufacturer (not Excitech) and it comes with a licensed Type3 sw with dongle. The sw was working fine for a few days but suddenly his anti-virus McAfee decided that the dongle sw (Sentinel) has a trojan virus and deleted it. He is now unable to use Type3.

Is there a way to recover the "Sentinel" sw that comes with the Type3 dongle? Or, can someone email me the "Sentinel" file? I know it is best to ask from the Chinese supplier but they are not responding to this request.

Thanks,
WT

i have a dongle we are not using pm me an address and i'll send it

jim

a virus would not have wiped out the dongle as they are readonly usb sticks, it might have done something with the software on the computer that connects with it though

yes ihave had to recover sentinel software for mt cabnetware dongle, just google it!

jim

i have a dongle we are not using pm me an address and i'll send it

jim

Hi Jim,

Thanks a lot for the offer to send me the Type3 dongle. I greatly appreciate that.

I have googled and d/l the sentinel sw and will let my friend try it. Hope it works out.

I will let you know if I will still need the dongle from you though it may be a hassle for you as I am located in PI.

Thanks,
WT

The recent discussions about various CNC controllers are very interesting.

Personally, I have not used the other cnc controllers except Mach3. I am no expert of Mach3 but I will try to make some comparisons of the cost and features that I know of.

WinCNC - Software ($1,200) plus board ($540). Based on Jim's experience, it has excellent support including online internet trouble shooting. Ease of use and stable features.

USBCNC - CPUv4 board (EU320 / NoEU 275). Hardware pulse stable. Very nice implementation of various features including digital scanning.

China handheld DSP - mostly included with CNC router purchase. No GCode Sxxxx, 4th axis (?) support. No toolpath display and unknown DSP implementation of postprocessor standard.

Mach3 - $175. Software running under Windows 2000/XP/Vista. Software generated pulse up to 100KHz kernel speed. More than 10,000 users and strong forum/usergroup support. Typically DIY users and willing to take the challenge of tweaking the settings THOUGH there are numerous commercial OEM applications that are very stable in production environment. Support up to 6 axes. One time licensing fee and can be use in multiple machines without additional fee if home/hobby use. 4th axis rotary table supported. There are even 5-axis implementation already by some users. If you are willing to spend for personalized support, there are numerous individuals who are experts that can handle the job and even do customized applications including ATC and other exotic cnc machines :)

To overcome the disappearance of the parallel port in the near future, the Smooth Stepper ($155) was introduced by Warp9. This is a board that connects to the USB port and takes care of the real time generation of the pulse stream (very smooth and stable up to 4MHz ?) based on the trajectory planner of the Mach3. The output from the SS emulates 2 parallel ports I/O.

Hope this gives you some basis for comparison and happy CNCing!

Thanks,
WT

Oh, before I forget, there is another one known as EMC2. This is a free software CNC controller running under Linux.

that was a good summation!!

jim

Rocket, how much did you spend on the Chinese CNC router? How is the quality?

I am interested on purchasing one, but are very expensive.


.
This thread is about our first cnc router purchase for our small family business.

We are located in Australia and do not have the availability of many different brands that our friends in the USA can select from.

At this moment we have absolutely no experience in cnc. Our machine is due to arrive in Australia in mid December 2007 and it is our intention to provide an ongoing summary of our attempts to learn about the machine and how to operate it.

The cnc router that we have purchased is from a company located in China called sh-cnc The brand is Excitech.
The specifications are - SHM1530A Router Machine
Table size 5ft x 10ft ( 1500 x 3000 )
Spindle 3.5KW ( 4.7 HP ) HSD
Stepper Motors
Becker Vacuum Pump

If you read through this thread you will see that i had deleted a lot of my early posts. This was because a member had ( in my opinion ) tried to derail the thread by posting negative stories about our supplier. I figured that he was from the anti import crowd. His story in my opinion is preposterous, but as it has been pointed out to me that everybody is entitled to their own opinion, i am attempting to restore as many details as possible. Make up your own mind.

Rocket.

Just a question ;
Do you really use the TYPE 3 SW?
I found it being very limiting and I have hardly used this SW at all.
The one I have used is the Ucancam, which is very basic but works OK for me.

K

I think I wll buy a SHM0609, which is the best controller: the DSP or Mach3?
Is the DSP supporting the 4 axis?

Thanks for help me.

Hello guys,

I could really use some advise on a big problem I had one hour ago.

I am working on the celtic cross ( I posted pictures a few days ago). Although the relief in the middle (a flower + heart) was already finished, I decided to route it again but with a smaller ballnose bit to get even more detail.

The toolpath was spiral and went from the outside of the flower to the inside (the heart). Everything went perfectly until suddenly (after 10 minutes) it plunged deep into the wood! It finished a circle before I could turn it off. See picture for the disaster...
I had a quick look at the g-code of the flower. Seems ok (as far as I can tell). I then checked if the z-zero point on the machine had changed: it has! It was at least 8mm higher (so the machine thinks my material is lower than it acutally is!). So my big question is :
What can be the explanition of the z-zero changing during a job?! Is there a g-code instruction for such a thing? Has anyone else ever heard of such a problem?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74571&d=1233085346

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74572&d=1233085346

I am a bit sad now, I think I will have to start all over. That is not the biggest problem, the problem is I want to trust my machine and be sure that it will not happen again when I am doing the cross again....
Thanks,
Marco

set up the file "z" it, then remove the material, run file and check z height at end of file we need to start there.

jim

Rocket, how much did you spend on the Chinese CNC router? How is the quality?

I am interested on purchasing one, but are very expensive.

davaro, back in November 2007 we paid 20k ( USD ) all up delivered. Not what i would call expensive compared to most cnc router machines.

More than happy with the quality. The Excitech continues to perform extremely well. One thing to be careful about is to LUBRICATE the machine weekly or you can have problems.

We are very glad that we bought it!

Cocobolo, I have no idea what caused your problem, but hope you do not discard your work of art. Surely you can use some filler or slightly alter the design to integrate it.

Rocket.

set up the file "z" it, then remove the material, run file and check z height at end of file we need to start there.

jim

That is a good suggestion, I will indeed start with that tomorrow (it is late in the evening over here :-)).
Thanks !

I think I wll buy a SHM0609, which is the best controller: the DSP or Mach3?
Is the DSP supporting the 4 axis?

Thanks for help me.

Hi Yksur,

Have a look at my thread in where I'm looking for a 4th axis support and the experience with a custom DSP which was supposed to support this function:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57159

In short;
1 - If you plan to do anything else with the machine like probing/scanning, 4th axis or anything else - forget the DSP and get the MACH3 setup.

2 - If you do however have no plans on doing anything else with the machine than cutting in a normal fashion - then go for the DSP.

3 - If you go for the DSP version and later decide you need some extra bells and whistles and would like to upgrade, you have to consider the options mentioned a couple of posts earlier here (It is not possible to re-order a kit to do this from the factory - at least when I asked). We would most likely be able to help since some have already done this transition and some are in the process (including me).
K

Hi Yksur,

In short;
1 - If you plan to do anything else with the machine like probing/scanning, 4th axis or anything else - forget the DSP and get the MACH3 setup.

2 - If you do however have no plans on doing anything else with the machine than cutting in a normal fashion - then go for the DSP.

3 - If you go for the DSP version and later decide you need some extra bells and whistles and would like to upgrade, you have to consider the options mentioned a couple of posts earlier here (It is not possible to re-order a kit to do this from the factory - at least when I asked). We would most likely be able to help since some have already done this transition and some are in the process (including me).
K

Word of caution:

Based on the discussion I have with someone in UK who had recently imported a CNC Router with Mach3 cnc control from China, the implementation is not that good. The China Mach3 uses a breakout board that does not implement the spindle control (very much like the DSP). He replaced the BOB with one from CNC4PC.

I am not sure though that all China manufacturers use the same BOB.

Hello guys,

I could really use some advise on a big problem I had one hour ago.

I am working on the celtic cross ( I posted pictures a few days ago). Although the relief in the middle (a flower + heart) was already finished, I decided to route it again but with a smaller ballnose bit to get even more detail.

The toolpath was spiral and went from the outside of the flower to the inside (the heart). Everything went perfectly until suddenly (after 10 minutes) it plunged deep into the wood! It finished a circle before I could turn it off. See picture for the disaster...
I had a quick look at the g-code of the flower. Seems ok (as far as I can tell). I then checked if the z-zero point on the machine had changed: it has! It was at least 8mm higher (so the machine thinks my material is lower than it acutally is!). So my big question is :
What can be the explanition of the z-zero changing during a job?! Is there a g-code instruction for such a thing? Has anyone else ever heard of such a problem?

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=74572&d=1233085346

I am a bit sad now, I think I will have to start all over. That is not the biggest problem, the problem is I want to trust my machine and be sure that it will not happen again when I am doing the cross again....
Thanks,
Marco

Hello again,
I got the advise from someone to check if the z-axis is dirty and/or needs lubrication. I must say that just a minute before the incident, I heard unusuall noises. A rough sound. I removed my ear-protector (?) but coudn't hear it then (to loud noises). When I put the ear-protector on again, I heard it again, a deep sound. I looked at when it happened and I thought it was when the z-axis moved. So I think the advise to check the z-axis could be correct.

Now the question : the z-axis is hard to get behind (the router and the aluminium plates are in front of it). Do you remove these before cleaning? And what is the best lubrication to use? Oil, grease, "teflon"(EDIT : PTFE of course, not HDPE)? Should I use the little opening to insert the lubrication. I only used PTFE until now by the way. Was that wrong?
Here is a picture of it:
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q263/arcadeoriginals/lubrication.jpg
Thanks !
Marco

Cocobolo, I have no idea what caused your problem, but hope you do not discard your work of art. Surely you can use some filler or slightly alter the design to integrate it.

Rocket.

Hi Rocket,
Yes, I will probably just remove the whole flower (with the router, making it flat). Then I will glue a piece of mahogany onto the flat surface (taking care to match the woodgrain of course). And then route the flower again. If I do this carefully, I think it will be almost invisible.

By the way, I had many problems with the rough edges of the artwork. I did not understand what caused that. It turned out yesterday that it has to do with the resolution in Artcam : I had it on 1000x1000. The edges get jagged when I do that. If I first put the resolution to 4000x4000 and then import my STL file, it looks very very smooth. So I am thinking of making the cross again with the high resolution. But first I will try to finish this one (after I solved the z-axis problem).

This forum is fantastic by the way ! :cheers:

Hi Yksur,

Have a look at my thread in where I'm looking for a 4th axis support and the experience with a custom DSP which was supposed to support this function:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57159

In short;
1 - If you plan to do anything else with the machine like probing/scanning, 4th axis or anything else - forget the DSP and get the MACH3 setup.

2 - If you do however have no plans on doing anything else with the machine than cutting in a normal fashion - then go for the DSP.

3 - If you go for the DSP version and later decide you need some extra bells and whistles and would like to upgrade, you have to consider the options mentioned a couple of posts earlier here (It is not possible to re-order a kit to do this from the factory - at least when I asked). We would most likely be able to help since some have already done this transition and some are in the process (including me).
K

Thanks Kent and CNCquest.

Right now I'm not planning to use the 4axis but in the future.......
Anyway the most important thing now is that the machine cutting well in normal fashion, the DSP do it?
Is Artcam working fine with the DSP?
I will ask more details to Taney, also based on a thread posted from Diana on 12-01 with new changes for the new year.

Are you happy with your Exitech?
Is it a valuable machine compared to the price?


Thanks for support.

my shm-0609 arrived yesterday and is all set-up and running with no issues... I am very happy with it.

I do have a problem with the dust extractor, it runs for about 2-3 seconds and then the fuse (13amp) blows.

The dust extractor did have some damage to the electronics box cover, and I did remove this cover and some of the wires were loose in their terminals so I soldered these.

Does anyone else have any experience with the excitech dust extractor, and in particular it's power requirements? I am trying to work out if the unit is faulty, or just needs more power than I expected.

my shm-0609 arrived yesterday and is all set-up and running with no issues... I am very happy with it.

I do have a problem with the dust extractor, it runs for about 2-3 seconds and then the fuse (13amp) blows.

The dust extractor did have some damage to the electronics box cover, and I did remove this cover and some of the wires were loose in their terminals so I soldered these.

Does anyone else have any experience with the excitech dust extractor, and in particular it's power requirements? I am trying to work out if the unit is faulty, or just needs more power than I expected.

I don't have the same dust extractor, but mine is a Chinese one that is very similar. Mine needs to have a 15 amp fuse or it will blow it when it starts up. I think the dust extractors have a high initial current but use less once up to speed.

Shannon.

Thanks charnwooduk , I sent you a PM.

Could you post some pictures of the SHM0609?

I have attached a few photo's of when the machine arrived.

I must stress that this is the first time I have ever physically seen a cnc-router! (except in pictures)!!! This means I have nothing to compare it too.

My first impressions are very positive. The machine is VERY sturdy, weighs approx 200 kilos. Unfortunately there are not many instructions (in fact the DSP instructions are the only ones of any use).

Luckily I have spent the last 6 months researching, teaching myself CAD, CAM and had some .nc files all ready for when the machine arrived.

Once I had fully cleaned and greased the rails, ballscrews etc I was able to test the machine. I found the DSP easy to use (it was already pre-configured for the machine) I managed to produce some very successful 3d milling runs on the first evening of having the machine! The results were fantastic :)

The standard "chinese" 1.5kw spindle that came with the machine is very quiet and appears to be good quality.

Finally to echo the comments of everyone else here, Taney was a pleasure to do business with and has been very helpful at every step of the process.

I am a very happy Excitech customer :)

you definantly have the right machine for that shop!!! it is a good machine i saw and used one at the atlanta show in the us, camaster sold them for a while but noe builds their own

jim

Excellent, thanks for pictures :)

Now waiting for some pictures of your works and some videos.....if possible ;)

Hello everybody,
I have some problems to use my SMH1530, there is anybody to help me?

Hello everybody,
I have some problems to use my SMH1530, there is anybody to help me?

depends on what the problem is. More details would help :-)

depends on what the problem is. More details would help :-)

I just instal my CNC in MORROCCO (North africa) without training. I try to use type3 software, when i send a file to CNC, the size of the letters change (bigger)

DO you have any solution for this problem?

No idea gays?

I just instal my CNC in MORROCCO (North africa) without training. I try to use type3 software, when i send a file to CNC, the size of the letters change (bigger)

The step pulse/mm setting might be too big, this would cause the problem you are seeing.

Shannon.

thanks frend, but how can i change it is it on the DSP or what? thanks for your quick reply

thanks frend, but how can i change it is it on the DSP or what? thanks for your quick reply

The setting is in the DSP.
If you push the 'menu' button, then navigate to the 'machine setup' section.
I think you push OK to enter that section.
Then you should find 'pulse/mm' then push 'OK'

To get back to the first screen, you can just press 'Cancel'.

You will be able to adjust the pulses per mm in there. More pulses means that the machine travels further for each mm in the G-code and less means it doesn't travel as far. To set my machine I made the machine travel 1000mm then measured it against a ruler. Then you will need to adjust the pulse/mm until the machine travels exactly 1000mm.

Shannon.

Excellent, thanks for pictures :)

Now waiting for some pictures of your works and some videos.....if possible ;)

I'm using the machine to produce molds for making composite parts used in r/c gliders. (I'm competiting at the World Air Games in Italy this year, so fingers crossed I can be using a model made with molds from this machine)

At the moment I am just working on the rudder mold, so I can learn the best techniques and understand the machine and software better.

Here are some pictures of the work so far, and some video....
YouTube - cnc 014

As mentioned, I am a complete novice. If anyone spots anything I'm doing that is bad practice, please let me know :)

i got my shg0609 today, over all looks good! was missing the type3 software cd (not in the case, the dongle was though) set it up cleaned it and lubed starting cutting some stuff. I have to really get used to the pendant, I was a multicam tech for a few years and they work the same but completely diffrent at the same time. Have some odd things going on with spindle speed changing, im not having it read from the g-code yet sometimes it starts at 400hz and sometimes it starts at 100HZ. Also when i was cutting a letter out of some 3/4 ply it all of a sudden slowed down to nothing (the feed rate) and i didnt stop it right away. The only liquid around was my beer so some of it was wasted to put out the fire! dont want to have this happen to often now! anyone have these issues or can tell me what im doing wrong?

Many many thanks charnwooduk!!!
Video and pictures: great!

Where and when you will be in Italy?
Did you bought the 2.2kw dust extractor?

Ciao

Many many thanks charnwooduk!!!
Video and pictures: great!

Where and when you will be in Italy?
Did you bought the 2.2kw dust extractor?

Ciao

Hi, I will be in Turino 6-14th June (see http://www.wag2009.com/eng/ )

I did buy the 2.2kw extractor, but it uses too much current for a standard domestic UK socket (it blows a 13 amp fuze). It is poor quality, I do not think it is made by Excitech and I do not recommend it. I suspect it is also dangerous (loose electrical connections and no earth. (luckily I spotted these before an accident).

It would not be legal for sale in europe. I have replaced it with a much smaller, more suitable machine sourced locally. (keeping the shoe supplied)

I am very happy with the router, so I have not let the issues with dust extractor worry me.

In which discipline?

Thanks for router infos.
What software are you using?

I sent you a private message.

Great to see some positive people now posting here.

Must admit i have been concerned about the Excitech owner who wants to race his gantry around the table. Why? Quickest way to wreck a machine is to run it flat out all the time!!!

Happy Exciteching people.

Rocket.

Rocket,

Don't worry too much, I'll try to keep it under the OMG speed. My main concern was not that i couldn't run at maximum speed. It had more to do with it not functioning correctly. It worried me that there were other problems that might show up later.

I think I have some resolution now. If you look back in previous posts, the software that comes with the DSP has a section under it for table dimensions and speed limits. Mine were all set to 1E+006. I didn't bother with this area of the software initially, because there is a separate section for setting all of the speeds. Since I wasn't making any headway, thought i would try the speed limit section. How do you spell "wha-la"? Now, i can have my travel speed faster than my cutting speed without running the z axis right through the table. See, the problem was not trying to run faster, it was trying to slow the z axis down. I agree that running too fast can wear something out in a hurry and that's what had me worried. You would have really been concerned if you had watched it run prior to setting the speed limit. :wee:

I have posted him 3 emails to hear about some support but I have not received a single word from him in response.
Is he still the POC for us ?

Kent

Kent,

I believe Chinese New year was 01/26. The Chinese usually takes at least a week off for that. I hope that is the case. What type of problems are you having.

Mitch

They start work this week, ask to Taney.

Kent,

I believe Chinese New year was 01/26. The Chinese usually takes at least a week off for that. I hope that is the case. What type of problems are you having.

Mitch

Mitch;

Sorry for late reply. Have been working like a whipped horse these days and hardly been up here... :(
I dropped Tanney several emails some months back and I never heard from him so I was just checking before I potentially try again.

I had a small "accident" when I was making space for a 4th axis lathe axis on my table. The end mill broke and made a hole in my alu-table and I was just wondering if it was worth it to order 2 new "plates" from China.
Also, I was interested to hear if Tanney could help me out with some HiWin stuff which was impossible to get locally.

I'll drop him a new email and check.

Kent

I have posted him 3 emails to hear about some support but I have not received a single word from him in response.
Is he still the POC for us ?

Kent

Hi Kent, I received an Email from Taney a couple of hours ago.

Seems that he had seen a news item about the devastating bushfires raging through Victoria at the moment, and he was enquiring as to whether we are OK.

For anybody who has not heard - The fires have destroyed approximately 800 homes and killed up to 300 people. It is our worst ever bushfire tragedy - and the fires are still going. We are all rather shell shocked at the moment.

Our location is 500 miles from the fires so we are fine, although i have some cousins who lived in the area and do not know how they have come through it.

Anyway - i was very touched by Taney`s Email. I believe he is a very caring person, and i am so glad to have the pleasure of knowing him.:)

Rocket.

Rocket,

I'm glad to hear that you are OK and hope your relitives come through fine. What makes the fires more tragic is that many of them were set by arsonists.

Best regards, Mitch

Usualy this fire starting is done by local landlords that want new land without trees to build on.

http://mapvisage.appspot.com/fires/FireMap.html

:(

Rocket;

I hope you are doing alright down there. The fire is a really big tragedy...

Regarding Taney - he got back to me yesterday and it seems like we have had a email problem earlier.

Kent

Hey guys - Thankyou for your kind words.

I live in South Australia. The bushfires are in Victoria just outside Melbourne ( about 500 miles from here ). We are fine.

There are quite a few CNCzone members who live in Melbourne and other parts of Victoria. These are the guys who need our support.

Rocket.

Hi Guys I am having trouble getting my DSP to read some USB sticks. I know this has been discussed before but can't find the posts. The one that I have that works OK is FAT32 formatted. I have tried reformatting the problem ones but they still don't work. Does anyone know the trick.

Hi Guys I am having trouble getting my DSP to read some USB sticks. I know this has been discussed before but can't find the posts. The one that I have that works OK is FAT32 formatted. I have tried reformatting the problem ones but they still don't work. Does anyone know the trick.
Hi,

I use Kingston 1Gb sticks. They work great, are cheap and the memory is more than enough (I don't want to much files on 1 stick, you could choose the wrong one if you are not carefull! And browsing through the files is slow.). So 1Gb is ok.

Hi Guys I am having trouble getting my DSP to read some USB sticks. I know this has been discussed before but can't find the posts. The one that I have that works OK is FAT32 formatted. I have tried reformatting the problem ones but they still don't work. Does anyone know the trick.

I have found that the USB sticks is not always USB sticks when it comes to the DSP. The first one I tried was a no go - the second one was a Kingston "Data traveler 8Gb" and this seems to work OK. FAT 32 is required.

Hope it works out for you.

Kent

Thanks for the replies. I will keep digging and let you know. I think I recall a format option on the DSP somewhere. Hopefully I won't wipe the DSP! How did you end up with the 4th Axis Kent?

Thanks for the replies. I will keep digging and let you know. I think I recall a format option on the DSP somewhere. Hopefully I won't wipe the DSP! How did you end up with the 4th Axis Kent?

I have now put on order on a axis and it would be delivered most likely in April. In the mean time I have been looking thoroughly at USB CNC and are 99.9% there to order a setup and then rewire my machine to get it going with 4th axis.

Unfortunately I did loose a deal on "4th axis SW" I was ment to sell (become a retailer for here in Norway - no names mentioned) so I'm out of SW for this function now.

The only thing holding me back for not ordering the USB CNC is some details in respect of zeroing the Z axis and possibly jog/dial the axis. As I understand it now, the CPU 4 board does not include a setup for zeroing the X/Y/Z axis - which I have grown very fund of on the DSP. It's so neat to be able to hold the DSP in you're hand - find tune/jog - and then set XY=0 and Z=0. I need some details here and then I hopefully would be able to get it going.
My own thread would be updated when this happens, so hopefully things would happen soon :)

Kent

CNCQuest,
Just noticed your post ,pages ago,Sorry?

The little PC that Iam running is a 701,the very first ones to come out.

They are installed with Linux ,which I know nothing about,so I installed
XP,also they apparently only run at 700 or so MHz,
but you can change that through the Bios,to 900mhz
You will notice the difference.
There are faster ones now ,I think they are called 900 or 901s
just do a search.make sure they have the solid state drives.

As for the touch screen ,I picked one up on ebay for about $30,
Soldering the wires were alittle tricky,but do-able with my limited experence.

The BB Iam using is from CNC4pc ,C23 which connects directly to the Smooth
stepper.
The C23 has had problems right from brand new,I was told to send it back
and either a replacment board or money would be refunded,
however it was going to cost me nearly the price of the board to ship it back?
So I couldnt see the point.In the mean time Iam happy enough with what I
have ,and not(cant)use some of the boards features etc.Thats Life!!!

The Smooth stepper is excellent ,highly recommended.
Great little gadget with great support ,both from SS and Mach.


I hope this answers a few of your questions.

Thanks
Regards
Jubee.

Hi Jubee,

Thanks for the answers. It is much appreciated.

Regards,

Hi guys!
I recently bought a SHM0609 from Exitech and now I'm waiting...

I wanna thanks Taney for the excellent support and hope that shipment will go fine.

Hi guys, is anyone real familiar with type 3 software? I have a job in (see attachment) which needs profiling out of 25mm MDF and then cutting out and I cant for the life of me get type 3 to cooperate!!

I have the excitech 1325A router and use provided ucancam daily for 2d stuff but it wont do the 3d profile and the only other software I have is the type 3 provided.

No matter what file I convert it into it wont even load into type 3 let alone run a g code program.

Does anyone know how to do this or if its even possible on type 3?

dougie, i do not know about type 3 i gave mine away, if a client has sent you a 3d file to machine then where is the 3d file,

dxf .stl etc?

then we can toolpath it otherwise one would have to recreate it

jim

Hi Jim,

here are the files, there are 2d profiles which I guess can be extruded to the correct depth and 3d .dwg files which I can open and look at in autocad but cant do anything with!!

I'm using the machine to produce molds for making composite parts used in r/c gliders. (I'm competiting at the World Air Games in Italy this year, so fingers crossed I can be using a model made with molds from this machine)

At the moment I am just working on the rudder mold, so I can learn the best techniques and understand the machine and software better.

Here are some pictures of the work so far, and some video....
YouTube - cnc 014 (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=qraOkGtD-Jg)

As mentioned, I am a complete novice. If anyone spots anything I'm doing that is bad practice, please let me know :)

Hi charnwooduk, any news or new works for the SHM0609?

Thanks

Hi charnwooduk, any news or new works for the SHM0609?

Thanks

Hi

The machine is working well. I had some small issues with the way the DSP controls the spindle (sometimes spindle would stop for no reason) or decide to run at 300hz rather than 400Hz), so made some quick program changes so I now use the VFD control panel to control the spindle.

I am sure this issue would be easily fixed if I contacted excitech, but as it is working well for me now, there is no worry.

Because I am also teaching myself the techniques to mold composite materials, I did not want to cut all the molds before I started work as I was sure that after some initial experience I would want to change the designs. There was also some delays in getting some of the carbon fibre and rohacell materials I needed to continue.

The good news is that I popped the first parts out of the mold this week and they are a great success, so now I can continue cutting bigger molds for the wings.

I also used the machine to make my own vacuum hold-down so I can easily mill small rohacell parts(200x300)

The biggest improvement I have had, is investing in some better quality tools for the spindle... the difference in the cut quality is very noticable.

pictures are of the parts I made using the molds described earlier in the thread.

Over a year ago I started reading posts in this forum. They were very informative. Based upon merely positive stories, I took the risque of purchasing an Excitech 1530C with Automatic Tool Changer. That was in august 2008. The machine arrived last week of november. And today, it is still not working even close to its specs.

The Becker vacuum pump, the Panasonic Servo Drives, the HSD Spindle are all working fine, but there is a long list of minor and major shortcomings which makes the purchase to an investment I now regret. To get it working as it should, a new gantry has to be placed, and the settings of a lot of parameters in the controller have to be set/reset.

Just to inform you and to counterbalance the experiences of other owners I enclose a list I also sent to Excitech. I still have some hope it will be a 'tool' some time and not a bunch of wasted dollar notes. I will keep you informed.

Regards,

Gerrit

Gerrit,

I may be able to help with some of your problems as some of them are more easily fixed than others.
Send me a PM and I will give you my email.

Shannon.

Shannon, that is very kind of you, it really is.

The problem is that I should be running my business and that I should not be putting time in repairing a machine that is not delivered conform specs. I have already spent an enormous amount of time so far and there is a unbelievable stubbornness at Excitec in admitting their faults and shortcomings. They just do not seem to take full responsibility for their product.

So far it is like having purchased a kit of already assembled components, without drawings, without proper manual and instructions. I have exchanged over 200 mails with Excitech and LNC, quite a few pre-purchase, apparently to no avail. Both packaging and assembly is done in a way that really should not have passed their quality control. The same holds for the parameter settings of the controller.

I have asked the opinions of a few local technicians to be sure I am not the only one thinking so. There is a general opinion that this machine is not delivered the way it should.

If we can not come to a good solution I will have to take legal action. I have a strong case I am told, but I rather avoid going this path.

If I am left in a position where I have to make it in a proper working router myself, I will be very happy with your advice and help.

Regards,

Gerrit

Hi Guys,
Can someone please send me Rocket67 email address because I might have a some work for him. I sent him PM last week but I haven't had any reply. TIA

I have seen and replied to Blunderbum`s message.

Guys - i have not posted much lately. This is because our workload has increased greatly and there are no longer enough hours in the day for us. We are in no position to take on extra work of any kind.

Gerrit, i was very saddened to see your post regarding your inoperative machine. Can only hope that Excitech come to the party to assist you to get it running.

I do wonder whether this is a result of using the new ATC system? When the buyers of the Syntech ATC machines received them - they also had difficulty getting up to speed. Do agree that a comprehensive instruction manual in english is needed desperately. The Syntech guys worked through it all and as far as i know are happy with their machines.

We are still very happy with our Excitech. It continues to perform as it should, and gives us a fantastic advantage over our competitors. In the current economic downturn - the fact that we bought our machine outright makes us very happy. We know of competitors who leased very expensive CNC Routers. They must be suffering in their jocks at the prospect of a severe downturn within the industry. We will make it through OK. ( Touch Wood ).

Gerrit, BigS has graciously offered you assistance in overcoming your issues. He knows what makes these things tick. Hope you can get it going.

Regards. Rocket.

More on speed limits:

Now that I have resolved the speed limit issues, Aluminum beware! Just completed my first part with a 2 flute 1/8" upspiral Atrax bit from MSCDIRECT.com with a cost of $7.99. set the rpm's to 141.6hz or 9000 rpm, feeds at 802 mm/min and cut 1/4" thick 6061 at .7 mm DOC. A little shot of WD-40 and a few minutes later, out comes a $30 finished part. What a relief!

I am a prospective buyer of an Excitech CNC Router however my email queries to Excitech regarding pricing and options have all gone unanswered.

I looked throughout the forums discussing Excitech routers and saw several recommendations to work with Taney however there wasn't any contact info.

I would appreciate help in contacting anyone at Excitech that can help get my initial purchase questions answered.

As an aside, I think it would be very appropriate someone that has figured out how to contact Excitech's various departments (sales, service, etc.) to publish that information in a new (i.e. short) thread.

Taney is the person.

I sent you a PM with his email.

a bit of info, the forum auto responds to all who have posted on a paticular thread,

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75587

jim

Jim, don't know if the auto response is set to automatic.

Anyway you can change your subscriptions setting under:

control panel > edit options

go to Default Thread Subscription Mode

than change Default Thread Subscription Mode: to Instant email notification.

Lifo14,

Where in the USA do you live? What size router do you plan on getting? I live in Phoenix AZ and I know a few people in the US & Canada that have 1325C &1530C's with Syntec controllers and are happy with them. We may be of some help for you.

Mitch

I'm thinking about getting either the SHM0609 or SHG0609. Somewhat undecided, as I'm wondering if the extra cost for the cabinet is worth it. Not sure on the other differences, apart from the covers.

I'm used to using Mach3 and the thought of "losing" control over what I know isn't appealing. Do people order these without the controllers and hook up their own?

hello, as far i know SHM0609 is faster then SHG0609, but very difficult to understand how it became faster with same 1.5kw spindle.
SHM0609CNC Router
(CE standard, cast steel table, ball screw transmission, DSP system, stepper motor, Delta inverter, tool sensor, 1.5Kw self-coolant main spindle, with covers for three axis, including Ucancam Software and Type3 Software. )
VS
SHG0609CNC Router
(CE standard, cast steel table, ball screw transmission, DSP system, stepper motor, ,Delta inverter, tool sensor, 1.5Kw self-coolant main spindle, including Ucancam Software and Type3 Software. )

i dont see any change without just with covers for three axis. All expert can explain detail. i even not clear what is difference between their advertising (SHG) and woodworking(SHM) machines. by the way i want to purchase 1 of SHM0609 which is recommend by taney. let see wht happaned

The main differences are the table structure, more stable, and dust covers.

after all calculation i was prepared to bye a SHM0609 for me but by Term of payment method i caught again,cause our country's govt. didn't allow us to pay T/T for import anygoods. if we pay by that way our product should b caught at port and we must b fined and waste a lot of painfull waiting time. which make us too looser. after a long disscussion Taney could not agree to get payment by L/C! so i dont know what to do? our govt rules vs sh-cnc vs me make me triple looser only. but fact is most of the china company do L/C smoothly but SH-cnc don't. isn't unfare? remarkable comp like sh-cnc break our dream frm bregaining. i beleive that Taney tried his best. but his last word was sorry. i m totally helpless

I am a prospective buyer of an Excitech CNC Router however my email queries to Excitech regarding pricing and options have all gone unanswered.

I looked throughout the forums discussing Excitech routers and saw several recommendations to work with Taney however there wasn't any contact info.

I would appreciate help in contacting anyone at Excitech that can help get my initial purchase questions answered.

As an aside, I think it would be very appropriate someone that has figured out how to contact Excitech's various departments (sales, service, etc.) to publish that information in a new (i.e. short) thread.
I too wrote to Excitech's various email addresses without any acknowledgment whatsoever. Have bought a Maxi-S 0404 and a Maxi-C 1325SE-T-V from maxicamglobal-cnc.com instead. Both machines are due to leave this week and I hope to see them 30 to 40 days from now. Will post details, photos when they arrive.

I too wrote to Excitech's various email addresses without any acknowledgment whatsoever. Have bought a Maxi-S 0404 and a Maxi-C 1325SE-T-V from maxicamglobal-cnc.com instead. Both machines are due to leave this week and I hope to see them 30 to 40 days from now. Will post details, photos when they arrive.


Comparing maxicamgloabal-cnc.com to sh-cnc.com makes me wonder . . .

- Are all these companies buying their parts from the same suppliers? For the spindle, the controller, the servo's this is obvious, but for the gantry, the table, the dust hood, the controller's cabinet, the z-servo hood . . . ?
- Is there only one factory and a lot of different marketing agencies with different names selling through different channels?

Excitech's contact person Ms Diana Feng has left the company (but her name is still on their website), Taney is a nice guy with a lot of patience, but he does not respond to my emails in cases he does not seem to know the answer, support does not go any further than replying email or sending a simple spare part in the best case - although it is proven that Excitech made some serious mistakes with our machine.
Yeah, I can get support ..., if I am willing to pay $ 2.500, Excitech will send a German technician to try to repair Excitech's mistakes, without any guarantee.

Are these signs of a very successfully and too busy company, or of a company close to its end of life?

I am really looking forward to hear more about your machines. I hope you made the right choice, I certainly did not.

regards,

Gerrit

You have a very valid point, Gerrit, about "Are all these companies buying their parts from the same suppliers? ". Well, in some cases it's 'Some companies buy all the parts from the same supplier'

When I decided on the purchase of a CNC router I spent a heck of a lot of time on research and in the end decided on Maxicam Global because I liked the basic specs, some modifications could be done without problems, ease of communication plus I felt that most machines have the same origin anyway.

Many so called factories are actually making the substructure of the table, some assembly of ready made components like the gantry, control unit and the final paint job as well as sticking a logo on the machine but that's about it.

I have seen a number of spec sheets from different 'factories' with the identical layout, exact sequence of wording complete with identical grammatical spelling errors, commas hyphens, periods, etc. in the exact same spot ...in other words, a duplicate. I saw photos of machines shot at the exact same angle with the exact same lighting/shadow, with the same bolts and number of them in the exact same location....i.e clones on a different background with a different sticker on them.

One factory send me, among others, a photo of a machine on which someone forgot to photoshop an area on the machine which showed some Chinese symbols. Meaningless to you and I but I sent it to a business friend in China 'et voila'...he got the name of the true manufacturer.

However, no one at that particular factory spoke a word of English and I can't communicate in Chinese. Anyway, my friend said the markups are not as high as in the Western Hemisphere so it's wiser to spend a little extra and be able to communicate with the source.

I realize that Maxicam doesn't manufacture all the various components from scratch but neither does GM. Monica and Linda at Maxicam have also been helpful in that they will take delivery on my behalf of a couple of thousand dollars worth of bits I ordered from a different source in China to be stuffed in container with machines saving me the freight on those bits.

Anyway, only time will tell if I made a wise decision. The container is due to leave China April 06.

Will post update(s) when they get there.

Norbert

Hello Gerrit,

Sorry to hear about your experience. I have an Excitech 1530C with a Syntec controller. I had many of the same complaints that you had regarding lack of documentation, many of the parameters were not set up right in the factory and there are still a few things that I wish were better with the machine. I would be really upset with how I received the CNC if I paid $100,000 for it from a USA distributor, but I have a great machine at under a 2/3 that price. I have been cutting parts every day for 4 months and have cut over 1000 sheets of melamine without one problem with the CNC. The only time my machine cut a part out wrong was when I programmed it to.

I know you ordered a different controller than the Syntec when you bought the machine because you not sure of the Syntec. There are 6 or more Syntec users on the forum and that support has been very helpful. I have found the Syntec controller to be bullet proof, it hasn't had one problem since I had it. It cuts circles, arches, 3D perfectly.

It must be very hard for you to figure out your machine because it is a one of a kind. If I can be of any help I will do my best to help you. I hope you get your machine running soon and come to the realization the Excitech is a strong machine and a very good value.

Good Luck, Mitch

Mitch,

Thanks for your heart warming support. I can see that this machine could be a good tool. I also can see that our machine is very close to a usable tool.
May be I should have chosen the Syntec controller, but I think the controller is only part of the problem. My major concern is the beam which is not cut square at one end, and this is not fixed easily. I would need take all the wires off to get it off the machine and bring it to a shop where they can fix it. This takes either a lot of time, or a lot of money if it has to be done by a third party.

The settings of the controller can be adjusted, and I think we finally will find out how this should be done. Most parameters are quite well documented.

Most disappointing is the way Excitech reacts on my requests for help. Just not professional at all I would say. I called Taney to ask why he did not respond to my emails and the conversation was abruptly ended. When I called again it was not answered. This is not the type of reaction one expects from a supplier that just sold you $ 35k worth of goods.

G.

gerrit, i have been watching your videos on you tube, well done

you should post them here, i came real close to purchasing this type of roputer here in the us, i have a friend who has one and his is fine, but one would have to be aware the chinese build these routers in mass and remarket them under different names, excitech seems to be the only one who actually has as much support for what it is, most leave it to the dealer or the owner only.

jim

Mano, A quick look at the Maxicam website would suggest to me that the Maxicam is indeed manufactured by sh-cnc ( Excitech ).

Gerrit is obviously bitter with his experience. His research suggested to him that another operating system other than what is normally supplied on these machines would be better. Turned out not to be the case! Those that purchased ATC machines with Syntech controllers are more than happy with their machines. However this does not mean that Excitech do not have an obligation to fix Gerrit`s machine - they would be wise to do so! I hope they do!

For those of us that live on this side of the world - it is simply too expensive to purchase machines from the USA. If we obtain quotes from Aussie suppliers - we find that we will need to spend upwards of $100,000 to buy a machine with tech support. Too much for most of us. That is why the China manufactured machines are popular.

We spent a total of $20,000 to buy our Excitech. This is a manual tool change machine. It performs extremely well and continues to make money for our business.

My message for intending buyers - If you want a CNC Router that is cheap and reliable - You cannot beat the value of an Excitech! But keep it simple!!!!!

I would not buy a machine with an Auto Tool Changer unless i was very familiar with machinery and computer controllers, or had good tech support. In this case i would buy a locally made machine and be prepared to fork out the 100k. So if you need a machine to run 24/7 - buy a heavy duty machine.

I look at it this way - We pay our machine operator about $15 per hour, so if he needs to change bits 4 times to make a panel - so be it. We do not need to take 5 minutes less to make a routered panel.
We are still intending to buy a second machine. Just waiting and hoping that the Aussie dollar will climb in value against the US dollar. It is currently at 0.70 and climbing. There is only one machine that will give us extreme value for our money. That is an Excitech!

Rocket.

Rocket,

I have my doubts that Excitech is a full fledged manufacturer. I haven't got my machines yet but I wouldn't be surprised if the components are the same as on an most other brands, be it Excitech, Fastrack, IEHK, you name it....Somewhat like buying a car. Components are made all over the world. But that is neither here nor there because in the end it's the quality of the selected components, the care in assembly and service/communication that counts.

Excitech was the only 'factory' which didn't respond to my enquiries (sent to different addresses at Excitech, not just one). That automatically eliminated them from the shortlist.

Although my friend in China could have put me in contact with the real manufacturer he advised against it because of the language barrier when it comes future communications and in all fairness I couldn't ask him to be my interpreter.

Anyway, so far I feel comfortable with my selection but, of course, I can't make a proper evaluation until the machines are here and operating as expected. I say 'comfortable' because Maxicam replied to a multitude of emails or via Skype.

By the way, the ATC I ordered with the 1325 is of the simpler rack variety and not the the more complex rotary type.

Cheers,
Norbert

Rocket,

I have my doubts that Excitech is a full fledged manufacturer. I haven't got my machines yet but I wouldn't be surprised if the components are the same as on an most other brands, be it Excitech, Fastrack, IEHK, you name it....Somewhat like buying a car. Components are made all over the world. But that is neither here nor there because in the end it's the quality of the selected components, the care in assembly and service/communication that counts.

The Spindles on the Excitech are HSD made in Italy, The linear rails are Hiwin made in Japan (I think :confused:) The stepper motors and drives are made in China along with most of the rest of the machine.

It almost sounds to me as if Excitech is getting affected by the global recession along with many others. Maybe the lower numbers of sales/staff are making contact harder?:confused::confused:

Shannon.

Hi Shannon, How ya goin?

I have absolutely no doubt that the Excitech is manufactured by sh-cnc, and utilises the materials that Shannon has mentioned above. Obviously, sh-cnc also have many resellers. No big deal.

Not once have i had a problem getting in touch with Taney. he lists his Email Address in his Thread. Maybe the problem is the way that he has the email Address configured. There is an underscore ie tomhua_1+++
His other Email used to be Taney@sh-cnc.com Taney - If you read this - can you confirm that you still use this Email Address?

Shannon - What are your thoughts on buying an ATC machine rather than manual tool change - for those ( like me ) who are not experienced ( like you )

Rocket.

For those who have not seen these components earlier in this Thread -

Shannon - What are your thoughts on buying an ATC machine rather than manual tool change - for those ( like me ) who are not experienced ( like you )

Rocket.

I use the ATC spindle and do manual tool changes at present, I hope to setup a tool changer at a later date. I do find that just doing manual tool changes can be as fast as having a tool changer and its easier to setup the machine.
Auto tool changes would be better for jobs that are repetitive, which I don't seem to be getting much of at present.

Shannon.

Guys,

How hard is it to add an automatic tool length sensor?

Guys,

How hard is it to add an automatic tool length sensor?

Not too hard, Mine came with one but the spindle has ceramic bearings and therefore very limited continuity. I made one with a micro switch using the supplied wire and the other side of the micro switch to ground. Works ok but I need to make another one out of metal.

If you have a tool changer and need to have the machine sense each tool, then an upgrade to mach3 or similar might be in order.

Shannon.

Not too hard, Mine came with one but the spindle has ceramic bearings and therefore very limited continuity. I made one with a micro switch using the supplied wire and the other side of the micro switch to ground. Works ok but I need to make another one out of metal.

If you have a tool changer and need to have the machine sense each tool, then an upgrade to mach3 or similar might be in order.

Shannon.

No ATC, just manual tool setting. Could you walk me through it?

Thanks in advance!

The spindle has a button on the side that you push to release the toolholder. Its the same spindle that is used for the ATC machine, just without the wiring and control software. it uses ATC tool holders and collets too. Its much faster than a collet nut on the spindle.

Shannon.

There might be real exitech and real maxicam companies, but the Taney and Monica and all of those email addresses are fake. They all come from the same IP subnet. They all registered the domains and business contacts on the same dates. We just uncovered about 6 simultaneous scams going on at the same time, all revolving around these supposed companies and a couple of others. We first became aware of the scam when one company sent us an XL spreadsheet with a company title from the other and then the games began. We are setting up a dealership and training center, and looking for a solid manufacturer. Living on China Time for the last two weeks, and these people cause us to waste so much time it is amazing. If they are real, and not a scam, they wouldn't be using gmail, yahoo, etc, all linked under what appears to be a real address on their websites. Some even sent fake copies of government licenses, and they even have web sites that appear to be business referal services listing just those companies I stated above. I hope not too many people sent them money.

If you download all of the machine pictures from the various sites, and compare them closely, you can easily see the photoshop product names, the machine color changes, etc....


I too wrote to Excitech's various email addresses without any acknowledgment whatsoever. Have bought a Maxi-S 0404 and a Maxi-C 1325SE-T-V from maxicamglobal-cnc.com instead. Both machines are due to leave this week and I hope to see them 30 to 40 days from now. Will post details, photos when they arrive.

Sure am glad that we sent ours!!!!!!!

Silverpearl - What is all this talk abot scams???? Get a grip!!!

Many of us have purchased machines manufactured by sh-cnc - which are marketed as the Excitech brand.

Every time i send an Email to Taney there is a reply in my hotmail inbox within a few hours.

I believe that what you have stumbled across is that Chinese manufacturers like to have many bites of the cherry and sell their machines under a lot of different brand names. Then you have the many agents in China who act as resellers for the manufacturers. No scam here - just aggressive marketing and lots of agents trying to make money.

If you really want to find out who the different manufacturers are - go to Alibaba.com and do lots of research on that site. Find out who the buyers agents are. Then engage one to go to the manufacturers for you. They will negotiate on your behalf. They charge a fee for this - but they know how to work through the process, and would more than likely save you money. You could also fly to China and go to the factories with the agent.

Regarding Email addresses - i only use hotmail myself - it is free - but is a much better set up than the bigpond email that my telco provider supplies.

Good luck with your enterprise. Hope it goes well for you.

Rocket.

silver pearl, i personally know one of the major importers here in the us of the machines. i have seen and have photos of the manufacturing and facilities in china, i have a friend who has one in camden sc and he is manufacturing cabinets on a daily basis, i will agree with you on the fact that there are scam artist who over promise these machines and under deliver after payment, i know personally of 15 machines purchased from "taney" and whether or not that is his real name is of no significance as all of the purchases my friends have made are legit. taney qouted me a machine in nov of 07 and he has kept up with me regularly since

here is a video i took in jan of 08 in camden when camaster sold the remarketed 1325 (they have since returned to marketing and manufacturing thier own machines here in georgia) www.camaster.com

YouTube - camaster cnc godwin cabinet shop

jim mcgrew


www.mcgrewwoodwork.com

Sorry to tell you....

We have tickets booked to Hong Kong for next week, and are to visit their factory. Upon giving them notice, all communication stopped. Rocket, you are most likely working with/for the.

The machine in the video has no relation to those they are currently displaying.

When colors and names are photoshopped onto pictures with different backgrounds, something is wrong.

We are talking a multi-million dollar project, not a single purchase.

As I said, there probably are machines and a company under those trade names, but when I call someone and they tell me about their company, they explain the OEM name differences and branding, etc.... I expect them to be in the Country they claim. In fact, I have called and spoken to many of them. The land lines are not in service. They have answered their cell phones on occasion. BUT... While they claim do be hundreds of miles apart, in different locations, I do not expect these same people to send me emails from the same wireless network.

It is also possible they are just a small distributor, and do not know what to do with such a large proposal?

Nonetheless, there is a lot of mis-information going on, not something that makes you comfortable in the dollar figure we are talking about.

If they do in fact follow through, pick me up at the airport, etc... I will be Johnny on the spot posting here about how great they are. I PROMISE THAT.

I also PROMISE that if we land in Hong Kong or near Jinan, Shandong and are left with our @%^$ in our hands, I will report that as well.

Lastly, their is no Mr. Taney. It might be a western-style alias, but not a real name.

We aren't stupid. We have a wide range of business contacts in Hong Kong and China. This isn't our first radio.


Sure am glad that we sent ours!!!!!!!

Silverpearl - What is all this talk abot scams???? Get a grip!!!

Many of us have purchased machines manufactured by sh-cnc - which are marketed as the Excitech brand.

Every time i send an Email to Taney there is a reply in my hotmail inbox within a few hours.

I believe that what you have stumbled across is that Chinese manufacturers like to have many bites of the cherry and sell their machines under a lot of different brand names. Then you have the many agents in China who act as resellers for the manufacturers. No scam here - just aggressive marketing and lots of agents trying to make money.

If you really want to find out who the different manufacturers are - go to Alibaba.com and do lots of research on that site. Find out who the buyers agents are. Then engage one to go to the manufacturers for you. They will negotiate on your behalf. They charge a fee for this - but they know how to work through the process, and would more than likely save you money. You could also fly to China and go to the factories with the agent.

Regarding Email addresses - i only use hotmail myself - it is free - but is a much better set up than the bigpond email that my telco provider supplies.

Good luck with your enterprise. Hope it goes well for you.

Rocket.

i know an importer who goes regularly to china, good old american fellow out of michigan, http://www.tigertec.us/ might want to give him a call, unless there is more to this story,

many of your postings were looking for "vortech" just out of curiosity what did you find there.

my hope for you is that you have not set yourself up for failure before you even leave the US. this router (while i love my camaster best!!) is readily available under the camwood and http://www.newcncrouter.com/NewCNCRouter.com/CNC_Router.html all of these fellows purchase direct from china, most who are familiar with the chinese are well aware of the fact that they do not compete with each other and multiple brand names are for the rest of us.


jim

oh and by the way "rocket" (rodney to me) is just a good old fellow who makes closets in australia, this i am sure of. he just happens to be the fellow who purchased aN excitech in november of 07 and started the excitech thread as a newbie!! his postings have been a god send to me in my learning as his mistakes came before mine!!

had not seen the excitech site in a while it has gotten better

http://www.webshcnc.com/english/index.asp

jim

There might be real exitech and real maxicam companies, but the Taney and Monica and all of those email addresses are fake. They all come from the same IP subnet. They all registered the domains and business contacts on the same dates. We just uncovered about 6 simultaneous scams going on at the same time, all revolving around these supposed companies and a couple of others. We first became aware of the scam when one company sent us an XL spreadsheet with a company title from the other and then the games began. We are setting up a dealership and training center, and looking for a solid manufacturer. Living on China Time for the last two weeks, and these people cause us to waste so much time it is amazing. If they are real, and not a scam, they wouldn't be using gmail, yahoo, etc, all linked under what appears to be a real address on their websites. Some even sent fake copies of government licenses, and they even have web sites that appear to be business referal services listing just those companies I stated above. I hope not too many people sent them money.

If you download all of the machine pictures from the various sites, and compare them closely, you can easily see the photoshop product names, the machine color changes, etc....

you have been 2 weeks on china time and still not learned anything? time to start thinking about wether you actually want to do this. Every manufacturer in china is like this. And guess what, just like they copy anything western they also copy each other.

Someone seems to be going about things the wrong way and making it hard for themselves, We sent tens of thousands of $$$ to Excitech and got back a CNC router that does all I ask of it. I for one have had no real issues dealing with Excitech.

Shannon.

Silverpearl,

We have more than 20 distributors around the world and we have more than 4 years exporting experience, EXCITECH have exported machines to more than 90 countries, each year we sell thousands of machines so you are not our first customer.


I don't know why you tell those bad words of Excitech and me, but I can forgive your words cause you don't know the real situation and you are not familiar with Excitech. Only on the forum, there have been plenty of customers who have bought machines from my colleague and me, some of them have visited our factory, how come you said we are just "small distrubutor" and I'm not even exist, I can take it as slander to both our brand and my English name, As Chinese have their own Chinese name which is hard to be read and remembered by the Westerns, so for the convenient of business and memory I have my English name as TANEY, is it fault? I think discussion or suspicion without evidence is harmful to a brand and not the mature businessman should do, well, from your words I feels you are not. I hope you can stop this foolish discussion and act as the real merchant. To be the gunman of other companies is not new trick then.

Welcome you to visit our FACTORY if you have booked the ticket to Jinan. After that you will know who is the real manufacture and who is not. and I'm waiting you to delete the threads before this of mine and refresh your idea. Attched is our new developed 5 Axis machine and EXCITECH FACTORY for your reference.


Take care.

Attched is our new developed 5 Axis machine and EXCITECH FACTORY for your reference.


Take care.

now thats a router!

Hi Rod,

Yes, you are absolutely correct, the mail address taney@sh-cnc.com of my company is still used only because is it frequently logged out if there is no action for some time so I use my MSN address tomhua_1@hotmail.com more, and also I can get informed at first time once the mail arrived and give fast reaction.

Rgds

Taney

Hi Shannon, How ya goin?

I have absolutely no doubt that the Excitech is manufactured by sh-cnc, and utilises the materials that Shannon has mentioned above. Obviously, sh-cnc also have many resellers. No big deal.

Not once have i had a problem getting in touch with Taney. he lists his Email Address in his Thread. Maybe the problem is the way that he has the email Address configured. There is an underscore ie tomhua_1+++
His other Email used to be Taney@sh-cnc.com Taney - If you read this - can you confirm that you still use this Email Address?

Shannon - What are your thoughts on buying an ATC machine rather than manual tool change - for those ( like me ) who are not experienced ( like you )

Rocket.

i sure am happy i bought mine from Taney. He handled all my questions and gave me the confidence to pre-pay for my 1325.

Oh, by the way, HI TANEY!






(shameless plug to see if i can get a replacement power switch)...

Im about to purchase a 1325 Unit also soon, Taney was such a big help with questions :)

(Not a big fan of the ballscrew on the 1224 unit thou, everyone I ask says its alot better to use a R&P.)

Dear Sirs

I´m from Spain

I buy to Taney Excitech machine 1325 complete with ATC , etc
Only one word PERFECT .,

The machine is working 100 %



Cheers from Spain

Fernando Cittadini

Rocket,

Just like to say a big thankyou for giving Simon and I a demonstration of your fantastic machine today. You have quashed any doubts we may have had about the machine/company and we certainly feel more confident in ordering a router from Taney soon.

Hope to keep in touch once we get our machine.

regards,
David

Rocket,

Just like to say a big thankyou for giving Simon and I a demonstration of your fantastic machine today. You have quashed any doubts we may have had about the machine/company and we certainly feel more confident in ordering a router from Taney soon.

Hope to keep in touch once we get our machine.

regards,
David

David, it was a pleasure to meet with yourself and Simon. Now you can see my reasons for bragging about our Excitech all the time. It is a great money earner for our business.

Like yourselves, we were reluctant about buying our first cnc Router, but upon reading about Scott and Jimmy`s Excitech purchases in the first Excitech thread - we also became very confident about going through with the purchase. We are so glad that we did. Our second machine will be ordered soon.

Unfortunately, members such as carvinmarvin and now silverpearl attempt to discredit Chinese machines. I am not sure of their motives - but i do know that they are very much mistaken! Thankfully there are a lot of Excitech buyers on this thread now. Just look at the above responses to silverpearls attempt.

As time goes by, more and more machines appear and we are pretty well at the stage where intending buyers can view machines in action before concluding their purchase.

Guys, the work that David and Simon are involved in is very hi-tech and exciting.

I am very much looking forward to seeing your work, and hope that you will post on the forum with photos of your machine and the work that you are doing.

If we can be of any further assistance - do not hesitate to call in.

Rocket.

I just wanted to ask, how did you move the cnc routers? I am going to be putting a deposit on a 1325 machine in a few weeks and all I have at the workshop is a 1.8T forklift, with tines just over a meter long.

I will be using a customs broker as I have used them before and I believe it will arrive on a flatbed truck.

I will be going T slot as I dont have the sort of money to upgrade to a vac system, is it worthwhile getting a dust extractor (I will be working with MDF alot which has fine particles)? I cannot afford a ATC but im not worried as I dont plan on doing massive amounts of work with different tools.


Should I look to organize a larger forklift with some long tines?

I took the side panels of my 1530 and used a forklift with some wood beams up against the upper inner bed framework to lift the machine. This may not work if the power box is on the side of the machine due to the balance being off to one side.

Shannon.

... is it worthwhile getting a dust extractor (I will be working with MDF alot which has fine particles)?

You absolutely need a good dust extractor! You will know once you start your first MDF job without one :-) Look at Shannon's posts on how he did his (he made several :) ).

Oh, and about Silverpearl : What makes him the expert? Does he own an Excitech router like we all do? Don't think so. I am very happy with mine :banana:

...As time goes by, more and more machines appear and we are pretty well at the stage where intending buyers can view machines in action before concluding their purchase....

Rocket.

That is right. I live in the Netherlands and I demonstrated my machine a couple of months ago to an intending buyer : he was totally convinced about the machine, and his machine has just arrived at his doorstep :-)

Oh, btw, I ordered mine not directly from Taney, but from a very professional and friendly company in Germany. He does all the paperwork, he explained me everything before I bought it (took 3-4 hours :-)) and when I have a problem I can call him. I am not sure if there are companies in the USA (or whatever part of the world everyone is in) that do the same? I can recommend it.

I just wanted to ask, how did you move the cnc routers? I am going to be putting a deposit on a 1325 machine in a few weeks and all I have at the workshop is a 1.8T forklift, with tines just over a meter long.

I will be using a customs broker as I have used them before and I believe it will arrive on a flatbed truck.

I will be going T slot as I dont have the sort of money to upgrade to a vac system, is it worthwhile getting a dust extractor (I will be working with MDF alot which has fine particles)? I cannot afford a ATC but im not worried as I dont plan on doing massive amounts of work with different tools.

shoulld I look to organize a larger forklift with some long tines?

blue^ray, Your machine will probably arrive on a flatbed truck - hopefully with a hi-ab ( truck mounted crane ). Confirm this with your receiver/broker.

The machine will be inside a crate. In addition to your forklift, borrow or hire a pallet truck. You can get under the crate on one side with your forklift, and have an assistant on the other side operating the pallet truck. With the pallet truck under one side of the crate, and your forklift under the other side - you will find it easy to manouvre the crate. If you have enough room inside your factory - you can put the machine into the finished position and then dismantle the crate from around the machine.

Have some timber bearers ready to assist with lifting heights.

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg34/rocket67/excitech162.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg34/rocket67/excitech167.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg34/rocket67/excitech168.jpg

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg34/rocket67/excitech202.jpg

Rocket.

When he came before there wasnt a crane on the flatbed.

I was thinking I might have to buy some long tines.

Just get him to reverse into the factory and lift it up in 1 go with some long tines, then with it lifted just get the driver to drive out. and lower it from there.

Im kinda on my own there so it would make it difficult.

I've seen Big_S recieved his in the container :O

blue^wray, i have just been onto the sh-cnc website.

For the SHM 1325A - The crated sizes are 3200mm x 1960mm x 1870mm, and the gross weight is 1200kg. Therefore your forklift with extended tynes should be able to lift the crate.

However, if you speak with the receiver/broker - surely they would send a truck with a crane if you specifically request it.

It would be preferable for you to enlist a couple of assistants when the crate arrives. The crate is pretty big and you will probably need someone to shout directions to you as you move it, and also to help pull the crate apart.

Rocket.

you can get a flat bed wrecker to "pull" the unit onto his bed, then lower it on to the floor with his winch, after that you can positin it with one or two forklift jacks. total cost is limited to the wrecker guy!!

Hi all, we are looking to purchase an Exitech machine. Is there anyone in Melbourne we could talk to and possibly look at the machine?
Regards, Tim

Austengrave, I know that there is a machine located around Nth Melbourne - but the owner has not posted for a long time. If you search back through this thread - you would find his details.

There is another at Wangaratta - owned by member " signmad ". Maybe send him a PM. If you cannot contact him let me know. I have his details at work.

You are welcome to look at our machine if you want to come to Adelaide. We are located at Pooraka. It would need to be on a Friday. Flights are pretty cheap.

You can contact me on this email imageclassiccars@hotmail.com

Rocket.

Hi all,
thanks Rocket for the heads up. There are 200 pages in this thread. Does anyone else know of this guy in North Melbourne. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Tim

http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg34/rocket67/excitech202.jpg

Forget about the router, lets see more pictures of the hot chick !

That happens to be my daughter in law.(nuts)

If you want to see some hot chicks - check out this thread in the GIM forum

http://goldismoney.info/forums/showthread.php?t=327115

Enjoy.

Rocket.

Back in April I mentioned that I ordered a Maxicam Maxi-C 1325SE-T-V and a small Maxi-S 0404.

Rocket, you are quite right with your assumption re Excitech and Maxicam. Apparently they are sister companies with one manufacturing the smaller machines and the other company the larger machines then market them under their house brands. I am 99.99% sure though I didn't pay one cent more at Maxicam than the same machine from Excitech.

Well, both machines arrived a couple of days ago and I must say, they are built like tanks. Even the freestanding controller unit weighs a ton (feels like it anyhow) and the vacuum pump alone would sink a ship!

Anyway, offloading went smooth and quickly. The container was delivered with a Hammar lift/trailer and deposited on the ground right outside my warehouse. We simply pulled the large crate out with the end of crate just dropping 1or so cm down onto wooden props. That probably created less of an impact than a few potholes on the road. Then the forklift, with its 6' fork, took the crate from the side and deposited it in my warehouse.

The machines are un-crated but not yet positioned.

For the little 0404, I had this idea (now discarded) of being able to take it home for after hours, or to a customer, or whatever.....just dump it in the car and here we go. Well, forget about that. It isn't what you might call 'portable'. I can barely lift it without some grunting. The little table frame is cast iron! That 0404 is not going anywhere in a hurry.

So far everything seems to be OK but a few things are not exactly clear because there was no instruction/assembly manual.

Some comments here…….

a) the Type3 manual is in Chinese and the software installed itself in simplified Chinese, hence boot-up was Greek, well.... OK , Chinese to me. A simple email solved that problem. Monica at Maxicam explained which steps to take for a switch to English. Mind you, I still have to download the English manual.

b) The Ucancam V8 manual is in English and well written too. A couple of odd words here and there, but essentially it looks to me like a very good software package. There is a video with the Ucancam package but unfortunately it's not easy to understand the spoken English due to accent. Anyway, I find the program very intuitive and it will probably become my program of choice. At least that's what it looks like. It's no Artcam but look at the price difference!

c) I didn't know I would get a compressor with the large router. I now know it's needed but I am not too sure what for..... apart from lifting the dust skirt, that is. I also read somewhere on this forum that the ATC requires compressed air. The compressor seems to be 380V/3phase, whereas I specified all to be 220V/50Hz. Will let electrician look at it before plugging anything in. .

d) Again, without instructions, I couldn't figure out what the 'fire-extinguisher-looking-thing' was. In her email Monica tells me it's a an air purifier for the compressed air. I have seen some condensation removers in the past but if I recall correctly they were all water-cooled.

e) The controller of the 1325 is a Syntec EZ-4012-M. The 100 page manual is in Chinese. I was told how to change the language setup to English on the controller and an English manual came in via email.

f) I have got the little 0404 connected and making some noise but nothing constructive. So far it hasn't digested any file I have loaded. The only format I haven't tried yet is .txt. Same story here with user guidelines / operating manual. I have a printout/manual for the DSP but nothing about the controller which has a little DELTA VFD-M SERIES readout screen, a few buttons and an adjustment knob. Don't know what they are for, though.

There is definitively a lot of room for improvement on the operating instruction/manual front but machines look well made and extremely sturdy.

Do the Excitech machines come with operating instructions? Anyone has one in PDF or DOC format for a 1325 machine?

Hello,

I would be interested in purchasing a large router from Excitech these days, i was considering the SHM2030 or SHM2040 CNC router, with standard stepper system.
Does anybody have experience with these, i understood rocket67 that you have a 1530 Router?
Have you found any issues running rack&pinion instead of ballscrew? How does the cutting looks like on acrylic materials, are you able to get non-vibrated fine cuts?
What is your experience with vacuum table and dust-collector, what kind of pumps do you have (there are "german" types and chinese models...)?

Thank you !

ddanutz1

Hello,

I would be interested in purchasing a large router from Excitech these days, i was considering the SHM2030 or SHM2040 CNC router, with standard stepper system.
Does anybody have experience with these, i understood rocket67 that you have a 1530 Router?
Have you found any issues running rack&pinion instead of ballscrew? How does the cutting looks like on acrylic materials, are you able to get non-vibrated fine cuts?
What is your experience with vacuum table and dust-collector, what kind of pumps do you have (there are "german" types and chinese models...)?

Thank you !

ddanutz1


Its not recomended to run ballscrews much more than a meter long, ie. too much weight for the motor to spin. This is the reason I want to avoid the 1224 model and go for the 1325. 1224 has ballscrews on all axis's.

This is what I have read, even when looking for finance the fella I was talking to said that ballscrews should be no longer than 900mm. (I cannot get finance on a machine that is out of australia so I have to pay it outright which isnt a major issue, its just causing a short delay in my purchase)

BTW rocket talked to the customs broker and if I make room he said the truck can back in and drop it on the ground inside the factory.


Should I buy their dust collector? or buy a dust collector made for MDF here in Australia?

Well, yes, it is not so good to have long ballscrews...actually i was considering the bad possibility for a lower precision or higher backlash in the system...is it so bad, or you can live with that? How does the cutting in acrylic look like? What about precision, does the excitech's large size router stay in 0.1 mm cutting size tolerance?

thanks,
ddanutz1

blue ray,

I got my dust collector cheaper locally than from Excitech, YMMV

ddanutz1,

You may have a hard time if you are after mirror finishes on the acrylic edges, it is a reasonable finish however, I can post pics if you like?

Shannon.

Hi Shannon,

Yes, i would really appreciate some pictures if you have some at hand...is the finish affected by machine resolution or vibrations in the machine? Or the part is not hold down well enough by the vacuum?

thanks,
ddanutz1

Here are two bits of 3mm acrylic, the top one is clear mirror backed and the lower one is black. The cutter was an Onsrud 1/8" single flute upcut carbide.
I clamp my material down the the bed and also use a pressure plate on the spindle.

The clear mirror acrylic is very hard, hence the difference in cut compared to the black.

Shannon.

blue ray,

I got my dust collector cheaper locally than from Excitech, YMMV



yea, wouldnt be much difference.

Okey, I wont worry about it :)

What sort of specs did you get on your dust extractor?

Hi Shannon,

Thank you for the pictures, well, the cutting is not so bad, as you mentioned.
I hope the same quality is kept for thicker material, and SHM2030/40 is getting the same movements...
I would not abandon diggin' for extra information on these routers, may i ask you how the vacuum table(T slot one) and chinese vacuum pump work work together, and also what do you think about the reliability of 3Kw HSD spindle?

Thank you again for the nice pictures,
ddanutz1

Dear Sirs

I´m from Spain

I buy to Taney Excitech machine 1325 complete with ATC , etc
Only one word PERFECT .,

The machine is working 100 %



Cheers from Spain

Fernando Cittadini

hi,
i,m from spain too, and i,m interesting in this machine.
How many €€ cost you the machine, including delivery to spain?
thanks in advance!

Hi,

Just ordered my new Excitech router.... i can't wait for the beast to get here...we are already cleaning the floor and making electrical cabinet...Taney, i am sure you will make a good job..

ddanutz1

hi,
i,m from spain too, and i,m interesting in this machine.
How many €€ cost you the machine, including delivery to spain?
thanks in advance!


sodium, I´m also thinking about buying an Excitech router and I´m in Spain too.
Check your inbox, you have a PM.

Hi everyone,

I am getting close to ordering a shm2040 with a 200mm z axis from EXCITECH. I have been dealing with Jerry and he seems to be reliable over the emails. Has anyone here dealt with him?? as i am keen to get some feed back.
I have enquired to have this model be run by Mach3 as i quite like the program and its functions.

If anyone has any input regarding this machine, do's and dont's, things to be aware of ect... would be much appreciated.

Also, i am being offered free freight and insurance to Perth WA. Is the global financial crisis in China that bad that their dacks have been dropped this far?


Garychief
POLYVISUAL
Perth WA

G`day garychief, Congratulations.

The 2040 machine would be a big mother.

Most of us have dealt with Taney. I believe that Jerry is new in Excitech`s International Department. I am sure he would be well trained by Taney.

A nice bonus to get free shipping. The global financial crisis has hit hard in China - There exports have taken a big hit from what i read. Check this out -
http://goldismoney.info/forums/showthread.php?t=381389

In the way of preparations for the arrival - Make sure to have your 3 phase all wired up ready, and ensure that you have a " motor rated breaker". These machines use an incredible amount of power for a few seconds at start up - so probably a 60 amp breaker. They drop back down to use little power after start up.

Also, make sure to have good dust extraction.

A good read through this thread should assist you.

Rocket.

Hi Rocket,

thanks for the heads up, the link was an interesting read also.
I am really concerned about Mach3 working in these machines, Jerry claims over 50 units have been sold in America, however i am yet to recieve any confirmation regarding this statement. I will post anything i recieve back from Excitech regarding Mach3 and its operation for those who are interested.

Garychief

mach three is widely used in the us and has a long forum support as well as videos, it is openly disscussed on vectrics forum which has a new forum on controllers and machines. i have wincnc on my first two machines and may use mach on the new one we are getting this week

jim

Garychief, I think that there is a reseller in the USA that sell these machines with Mach3. Maybe they are called Camwood? Perhaps do a google search for Camwood.

There is a very savvy CNC Router man in Perth who you probably should talk with. He is member Rodm1954 on this forum. Maybe send him a PM.
Rod gave a terrific talk on V Carve Pro at the Melbourne CNC get together last year. Think he knows a lot about mach3 also.

Talking about software - You would be well advised to use V Carve Pro from Vectric if it suits your application.

Would also be a good idea to get some spare USB sticks sent over with your machine.

Rocket.

Cheers Rocket,

I would guess that the Mach3 retrofit would be nothing more than a breakout board to suit steppers or servos fitted. The question is, which one are they using??. A cheap one off ebay, or a custom built one. Who knows?????

Gary

i have no doubt they are available in aus but keling sells them in the us

www.kelinginc.net

Hi Garychief,

We have also been dealing with Jerry and we made our final payment last Friday on our new SHM1325 and have had our Z axis increased to 300mm. The CNC is meant to be leaving China this week so we are starting to get excited now.
Jerry has been a fantastic person to deal with and very fast with responding to emails and questions. We also recieved free shipping which is amazing.:)

Hopefully I will be able to post some photo's of our CNC once she arrives here.

Cheers

Simon

Hi everyone,

I am getting close to ordering a shm2040 with a 200mm z axis from EXCITECH. I have been dealing with Jerry and he seems to be reliable over the emails. Has anyone here dealt with him?? as i am keen to get some feed back.
I have enquired to have this model be run by Mach3 as i quite like the program and its functions.

If anyone has any input regarding this machine, do's and dont's, things to be aware of ect... would be much appreciated.

Also, i am being offered free freight and insurance to Perth WA. Is the global financial crisis in China that bad that their dacks have been dropped this far?


Garychief
POLYVISUAL
Perth WA

another source

http://www.machmotion.com/Parts-&-Accessories-Breakout-Boards/c36_26/index.html

Hey guys, I've been lurking around for a while now and have finally decided to step out of the shadows (albeit because I'd like to ask some questions of you guys). I'm currently negotiating the purchase of a SHG0609 router minus the axes control electronics as I already have a NEMA23 sized 3 axis kit from Probotix (http://www.probotix.com). I wanted to double check with those of you that have a SHG0609 or a SHM0609 as to the size of the motors. Do they have NEMA23 sized flanges as I have been told?

I must say I'm impressed with these routers, as many others have said before, for less than the price of the parts (and not to mention the considerable man-hours and at $55 an hour for a mechatronics engineer they do add up!), we can instead purchase an entire system. Its brilliant.

I appreciate any help you lads can offer,
Javier