of the camwood maybe a little price increase wont be such a bad idea if the support is there, and from the responses i have seen on woodweb from camwood they are extremely sincere in their offering

YouTube - Step 9 - Vacuum Grid Board

G'day Spencer,

Nothing serious in the 'novel' comment mate- was just taking the piss.

I enjoyed the read.

Do you have any doco on the syntec system? I would certainly be interested in having a look at it.

I'm sure Taney will happily forward it to you in advance as a zip file.

Cheers,

Jimmy

Jimmy,

Had to find away to get the Syntec manual to you, it can be downloaded by following this link. Hopefully the manual makes more sense to you:)

http://www.filesend.net/download.php?f=1e75218343e58bea59b1a0dc27e6eb21

I have attached a copy of the CE certificate Taney sent me.

Thanks,

Spencer

Has any one used cam clamps that you cut out yourself? I cut some the other day but have not had a chance to try them as I had to go out of town for a few days and won't be home till this weekend. When I get back I will post some pictures of them. It makes sense to use something like this as it keeps all the metal away from the cutter.

Pictures will be a great help.

Has any one used cam clamps that you cut out yourself? I cut some the other day but have not had a chance to try them as I had to go out of town for a few days and won't be home till this weekend. When I get back I will post some pictures of them. It makes sense to use something like this as it keeps all the metal away from the cutter.

.Jimmy,

Had to find away to get the Syntec manual to you, it can be downloaded by following this link. Hopefully the manual makes more sense to you:)

http://www.filesend.net/download.php?f=1e75218343e58bea59b1a0dc27e6eb21

I have attached a copy of the CE certificate Taney sent me.

Thanks,

Spencer

hers a viseo of the wood clamps in use

YouTube - CNC wood router

got my samples today, great stuff!! comes in a variety of thicknesses and wit a cd to see.

it is somthing very close to US sign foam and has a lot of marine uses although the brochureshows a lot of other uses!!

got my samples today, great stuff!!

Glad to hear you have finally received the package. Put up some more photos if you run it through your machine, i'd like to know what you think.

John

the samples are pretty small, so i'll try to run a rossette or so. the package did come with a very good range of sizes and such i can see a lot of uses for the product!!

rocket how you comming on changing bits for mdf doors and such?? after we got set up with the touch pad for setting z and the same g92 "go to home button on win cnc it became pretty easy for me!! we are still in anticipation of the new machine with the tool changer though.

bill displayed a new machine much more geared to ther cabinetmaker this weekend and i hope to show it soon, my friend joesph has mastered (imo)
vcarve and has taught me how to use it much better than i was doing on my own. he is helping me now to build the file library i need, he also is buying a machine and i probably will buy a small one for use out here at the farm as it is a long drive back and forth on the weekends to the shop.

G`day Jim, We have just endured 15 days of temperatures over 35 degrees. Today it will begin to get a bit cooler with only 29 degrees. We have all had a gutfull of hot weather! Need to go to Tassie to cool down.

Glad to see that you are really getting on top of your learning curve.

Our Excitech continues to perform flawlessly. Ramon is now routing all of our panels. We are extremely proud of him and the work that he is doing.
With some of our designs he is able to use the Whiteside bits and on those designs he only needs to change bits to cut the panel to size, but with the fancier designs he uses the replaceable insert bits and needs to change bits 3 times - he is getting used to it.

So now i have to admit that ger21 was absolutely correct - We should have bought the Auto Tool Changer machine to start with.
Now that we are routing all of our own panels the cost benefit is really starting to show up in our figures. The Excitech will pay for itself very quickly.
Another example of the benefit of having our own router - Last week we inadvertently sent out a routered door robe with the incorrect door thickness ( my fault ). As soon as we found out from the installer we had Ramon rout the correct panels for the job and they were painted the same day and taken out to the customer the next day! Previously it would have taken 2-3 weeks to go through the process.
Purchasing the Excitech has proven to be a fantastic business decision for us.

Rocket.

I just read some of the older posts and noticed Spencer (BC-CNC) said that CE was recognized in Canada. I brought in an Excitech 1325 router a year ago into Ontario, Canada for evaluation with the intention of importing more for resale. We brought in the ESA (electrical safety authority) to inspect the machine and were told CE is not recognized in Canada. Here is ESA's web page listing acceptable certifications.

http://www.esasafe.com/GeneralPublic/epa_002B.php?s=19

The rules maybe different in British Columbia. but I don't think so. If you plug in an unapproved machine in Ontario you can be subject to a $5000. a day fine (maximum $50,000) and a year in jail.

I found the rules for BC.

http://www.safetyauthority.ca/bcsa_pdf_files/D-E3_060414_1_Approved_Cert_Marks_Elec_Prod.pdf

It's worth having a site inspection by BC hydro. You may have to change a few cables and add a fuse here or there but if you don't and your building burns down it's just one more reason for your insurance company not to pay. Hope this information helps.

Hi guys,

I have recently bought EXCITECH SHG6090 from china, I received with the machine a USB for the DSP controler , it contained two small files, one "test.cnc" file (around 240KB) and a "shortcut" file (2KB), I accidentally lost these 2 files (some serious virus problem), some one who have recently purchased a similar machine recently will please send me these files so I can run the initial check test, I am absolutely new to cnc machining hope to get help from this great forum, I am impressed the way you guys help others through.

Hi guys,

I have recently bought EXCITECH SHG6090 from china, I received with the machine a USB for the DSP controler , it contained two small files, one "test.cnc" file (around 240KB) and a "shortcut" file (2KB), I accidentally lost these 2 files (some serious virus problem), some one who have recently purchased a similar machine recently will please send me these files so I can run the initial check test, I am absolutely new to cnc machining hope to get help from this great forum, I am impressed the way you guys help others through.

I would E-mail Taney, he should be able to give you the files again.

Shannon.

Thanks Shannon, I will be for Taney,s reply.

I think i am about to order an 1325c with tool changer, do any of you have this machine or have you used the syntec controller. Will i need a custom post processer?

thank

david

here in the south east the machines (1325) were out fitted with win cnc for controller software, tiger tec the importer i believe used mach 3. our guy in GA www.camaster.com uses win cnc jim

56147Been awhile between posts,so here goes,,,

Just a couple of mods I made on the Chinese SHG 1312 that I thought may interest someone.(took me abit to do,but well worth the trouble).

Most of the routers I see, have all the electrical componets etc etc tucked away in a box on the sides of the machines,which I thought were all standard
when ordered,going by the photo`s sent over....not this one.
It came with a seperate control box that was always in my road,triping over all the power/control wires etc etc.and weighed a ton to move,which by the way was put on the table for transportation???Lovely and level...NOT!!!
So when ordering make sure you know what you want/get?
So being very limited in shed space , I relocated all electrical gear under the table,sealed in its own cabinet from all the dust,with venterlation fans.

I also wanted to convert to Mach3 ,so it was the perfect opportunity to do so.

As I had a G100 Grex sitting on the cupboard waiting for some smart fellow to figure out all the bugs with it,I thought I use that to talk to Mach 3 and see how it goes.At this stage it`s doing a reasonable job (so far touch wood),apart from one little bug,that no one knows how to fix.(zeroing the tool).I can live with that for now.

So as it goes I am using my laptop to talk to the machine wirelessly,no wires/cords ,its great.I can even control the machine from over at the house,
about 50m away (dont know why ,but you can).

So thats my progess so far,hopefully a home built ATC down the track.

Regards
Jubee

i love ingenuity!! jubee recently i was told the aluminum t-slot table leave a little to be desired in thickness ? what do you think? jim

Thanks Jim,
First impressions of the T slot were disappointing, (1.5mm thick),not to mention the " level " state it arrived in ,,however as this is my first cnc router I have nothing to compare it with, and so far only machining light wood projects ,I havnt run into to many problems ,after surfacing the top that is.

I guess you get what you pay for.


Rocket, YA big girl,........over 35 degrees what ? with about probably 30% humidity,come up to Queensland?
Just joking,different heat I suppose.

We have had an excellent summer up here, no complaints.

Regards

Hi jubee,

I haven't machined the table top of my 0609 yet but plan to shortly. How rough was the surface afterwards? Was the cutter able to get right into the corners? Did you sand it or anything to get it smooth again?

Cheers.

G`day Howzat,
I just used a flycutter,setup so it would surface the whole width of the black plastic strip in one pass.Manually jogging the axis ,all with a very slow feed rate.
The surface afterwards wasnt smooth but it wasnt rough either,if that makes any sense.
I guess you could use a ballnose end mill if you wanted a smooth finish,I dont think it matters though,as long as the bed is level.
I wouldnt go sanding it after,as you would be back to where you started.

From memory I think the Chinese had some Gcode in the dsp for levelling the bed,dont know what tool they would use?

failing all that ,you could attach a sheet of plywood on the bed and machine the plywood.

Regards
jubee

lgr,
Thanks for the links, good stuff. We are going to have a CSA guy inspect and sticker it for us.
Blair

this is my first time in the forum. i am based in nigeria and never had a cnc in our factory. i am making final arrangements to visit china to buy a vacuum/membrane press and an SHMS1224D from Jinan Singhui CNC Technology Co., Ltd. please can any one tell me how effective and reliable this machine is. every one on the forum seems to be interested in the lower capacity machines from this manufacturer or is it that this particular model is not reliable. we make cabinets and doors in our factory.

G`day priestwood, Greetings from OZ and welcome.

Unfortunately no-one on this thread has any experience with this particular machine. But if it operates as good as it looks then i bet that it is a ball-tearer!
I have just had a look at the sh-cnc.com website and had a look at it and the specs. 8kw HSD spindle, ATC, and working speed of 25 metres/ minute. Sure appears to be a great worker.

Most of the contributors on this thread are new to the world of cnc routers and as such we have all bought the entry level machines and are most impressed with them. In our case we bought the SHM1530B machine without ATC which cost under $20,000 landed in our factory. We are learning all about cnc routers with our machine. We will upgrade to an ATC machine later this year. Our machine is already making us money and is easy to operate. When we upgrade we will get the similar machine to our current one as it is the perfect size for us as we router large panels for our wardrobe doors.

I believe that the SHMS1224D is much more expensive to buy but is almost certainly a heavy duty machine and would compare very favorably to European and USA made machines costing in excess of $100,000.
Of course this is supposition on my part but as you are going to China you can check this out.
So good luck with your intended purchase and please keep us informed of your progress with it.

Rocket.

Hi jubee, You sure did put your thinking cap on!
Those modifications are superb. There was obviously a lot of cutting and welding involved.
The benefits of having the control box mounted underneath the machine make it well worth the effort.
The conversion to mach3 sounds interesting. Is it easier to operate the machine compared to the DSP controller? And do you now have control of the spindle speed?

Rockette.

G`day Howzat,
I just used a flycutter,setup so it would surface the whole width of the black plastic strip in one pass.Manually jogging the axis ,all with a very slow feed rate.
The surface afterwards wasnt smooth but it wasnt rough either,if that makes any sense.
I guess you could use a ballnose end mill if you wanted a smooth finish,I dont think it matters though,as long as the bed is level.
I wouldnt go sanding it after,as you would be back to where you started.

From memory I think the Chinese had some Gcode in the dsp for levelling the bed,dont know what tool they would use?

failing all that ,you could attach a sheet of plywood on the bed and machine the plywood.

Regards
jubee

Thanks jubee :cheers:

G`day all, Thought we had our first problem with the Excitech today.
The gantry was " jerking " upon takeoff. This had not happened before
and we had no idea of the cause. It was almost as if one side of the gantry was taking off before the other side, and this was distorting the start of the routered area.
Could not see that anything had worked loose and the collet/bit were tight.
Then it dawned on me. I had not lubricated the machine for the last 3 weeks. So i greased the teeth on the rails and used spray oil on the slides. Only took about 5 minutes. Then we put a few pumps of the grease gun into the grease nipples.
After doing a few laps with the gantry around the table we loaded a board and ran the program.
Problem solved!
The moral of the story - Ya gotta lube ya machine - Regularly!
We will now lube the machine every monday and use the spray oil on the guides daily at the end of each day.

I have not posted any photos for a while so here are a few.

Rocket.

Looks like the CNC is a good Double for a bar Top, You need to CNC some Bar Stools!!

Rocket,how could you forget "The importance of lubrication"(chair)perhaps too much:cheers:
Here is a helpful reminder.
Larry

Nothing to do with Lube but she wanted to stop by to say hi.

camaster is in the right place!!!!!! lol

The par-tay continues once a mate dropped by with a few slabs[babefish translation,two/four]

wait till Rocket wakes up and sees what we have been doing to his pictures:cheers:

Good one fellas! Problem is - I have been asleep and missed the party!

How about some of them Tsingtaos and a few pizzas?
No self respecting Aussie drinks fosters. Crown Lager rules. ( VB - the dregs )

I`m off to work to join the party. Better check out all those nipples......
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif
Rocket.http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif

I have been lurking for a couple of months and have learned much from all contributors. I am about ready to purchase the SHMS 1325C with tool changer and Syntec controller. I seems like most people use the DSP system. Has anyone bought a router with the syntec system? If so, is there any issues with using programs cabinetparts pro or Vcurve pro?

Thanks, Mitch

you fellas have way too much time on your hands lol

Hi all, sorry I missed the party.

I am ordering a SHMS1530C and Taney gave me pricing for sole container and LCL to the USA. Of coure the container is almost double the cost of LCL. I would guess that using a sole container would be the safest way to ship, but would like anyone's input on what method you used or would recommend.

Thanks in advance, Mitch

new big machines, jim

G`day Mitch, Congratulations. The 1530 machine is a bloody ripper!

Four months ago we had to make the same choice and opted for FCL shipping for a few reasons -
1) Speed. If it is sent in a 20ft container it will be crated and put straight into the container, then transported directly to the docks, rather than waiting around for a 40ft container to be filled.

2) Less likely to sustain damage if sent in a " sole use " 20ft container.
Forum member Jimmy 007 used the LCL method and his control box was damaged in transit. He believes that the damage was done on the docks here when the LCL container was unloaded.

If you look at 2 posts on page 16 ( if you have 40 posts per page ), see post no.628 by ksealey. His machine was sent LCL and the crate was damaged. The crate needed to be dismantled on the truck in order to lift the machine off. Fortunately his machine was OK.
Then look at post no.634. The photos show the arrival and unloading of our machine. The crate was a very snug fit in the 20ft container and was not damaged at all. To remove the crate from the container we drilled 2 holes through the bearers at the bottom of the crate, connected chains and dragged it out with our forklift. Easy.

If you have ordered the vacuum pump - which is very heavy, ask Taney to ensure that it is NOT shipped by sitting it on top of the table. We believe that the vacuum pump sitting on top of our table during shipping caused a 2mm dip on one end of our table. This poses a problem. There would not have been room in the crate to sit the vacuum pump on the floor, so maybe request the pump to be shipped seperately?

I hope this answers your questions.

Regards, Rocket.

Mitch, It is also very important for you to organise your Broker / Receiver as soon as you order the machine.
There are quite a few charges at your end of the shipping, such as Port handling, customs clearance etc. It will cost approximately $160 for the broker and is money well spent to ensure smooth delivery to you.
I made the mistake of leaving it to the last week to organise and had to wait an extra week for the container to be released by Customs.
Be prepared!

Rocket.

Mitch,

I would think that you will save a lot of $$$ at the ports with FCL, recently at work we had a LCL delivered and the shipping company was wanting to charge more than FCL for the part container by $1k (chair)

Also FCL is quicker as the ports don't have to unload anything for you and can release the container to freight faster.

My machine should be at the ports in about 4 days, However we may have a delay as we are only just getting the documents sorted now (nuts) and going by Rocket we should have done that ages ago :rolleyes::D

Shannon.

We ordered the SHMS1530C and decided that the additional $600 to ship FCL to Vancouver was well worth the peace of mind knowing that it doesn't need to be unloaded at the docks where we cannot supervise the lifting. This way the whole container can be shipped to us and we will be responsible for unloading the equipment.

Like Shannon said, it should also clear quicker and save a few bucks on the port handling charges.

Only down side is we may have to ship the container back to the coast, unless we can negotiate a decent price for it from the shipping company.

Apparently our CNC left the docks in China on Tuesday(ahead of schedule), so now we are hoping for calm seas.

Spencer.

Rocket, Shannon & Spencer,

Thanks for the great advice. Unlike most of the good advice I have received in life I will take it this time.

Rocket, what size becker vacuum pump do you have, the KVT3.14 or the KTLV250? Do you find that you have enough hold down with it? I plan on cutting sheets for cabinets & doors with mine.

Thanks, Mitch

Mitch,

We have a 6.6kW (approx 10HP) vacuum on the 1200x2400 Multicam at work and is adequate for most jobs, We did have to be careful that we used gaskets when cutting undersize sheets to manage the vacuum well.
You can get bigger pumps but the thing is to remember the power cost of the vacuum is a large percentage of the power cost of the machine. On the multicam it is around 60% of the power.

Shannon.

Mitch, We have the KVT3.14
It holds everything that we put on it. However the first spoilboard that we used was in 3 sections and we could not get a good seal. We changed to a one piece spoilboard , surfaced it and the difference was incredible.
So make sure to get a spoilboard bit and just take a mm or 2 off of the spoilboard surface and you will be good to go.
Jim put up a link to a low cost spoilboard bit a couple of months ago - from memory it was on the Ezirouter website.

Rocket.

We ordered the SHMS1530C and decided that the additional $600 to ship FCL to Vancouver was well worth the peace of mind knowing that it doesn't need to be unloaded at the docks where we cannot supervise the lifting. This way the whole container can be shipped to us and we will be responsible for unloading the equipment.

Like Shannon said, it should also clear quicker and save a few bucks on the port handling charges.

Only down side is we may have to ship the container back to the coast, unless we can negotiate a decent price for it from the shipping company.

Apparently our CNC left the docks in China on Tuesday(ahead of schedule), so now we are hoping for calm seas.

Spencer.

Spencer, We organised for the truck to remain on site while we unloaded the container. As soon as we were finished the driver put it back on his truck and took it away. This was all arranged through the Customs Broker.

If you are well prepared with a forklift, Chains, Shackles and a drill with a large bit - You can have the crate out of the container in about 10 minutes.

This would save big dollars.

Rocket.

Does anyone know anything about the controller that comes with the SHMS1530C

We will be figuring it out when our machine arrives around May1st, a few posts back I submitted a link to the manual that I received from Taney.

Spencer

bits of all kinds

1 1/4" spoil board bit in hand is great for starters
we have stores with whiteside, amana, and cmt (which is moving up in cnc)
the mdf door bits were ordered from ama

jim

Jim, The Whiteside router bits that we purchased through Routerbits.com are excellent.

Ramon is mostly using one particular bit and absolutely swears by it. He has routered many panels with it and it gives a nice finish on the panel.

We are about to place a bulk order for more through Routerbits.com

Interesting to note that most US suppliers are not interested in sending bits overseas.

Rocket.

Hey Rocket,

I know I have read somewhere in this thread where you mentioned the grease and lubricants required for the CNC. Could you save me an hour of searching and let me know what grease/lube your are using on the machine, where you are using it and how often. I would like to get it all lined up before the machine shows up.

Cheers,

Spencer.

it will get your mind of the pressure of the camaster girls !!!

http://pdscolombo.com/pdf/Main%20Brochure.pdf

Hey Rocket,

I know I have read somewhere in this thread where you mentioned the grease and lubricants required for the CNC. Could you save me an hour of searching and let me know what grease/lube your are using on the machine, where you are using it and how often. I would like to get it all lined up before the machine shows up.

Cheers,

Spencer.

That makes two of us now :wave:

Shannon.

Hi Fellas, I wrote a long post about this on friday, but when i hit the " submit reply" button it all went haywire.

We use Anglomoil products which were recommended by Jimmy007.

The grease is called Uniplex NLG1 - The blurb reads - Anglomoil Uniplex Grease represents state of the art grease technology. It is a high quality calcium sulphonate complex grease providing excellent performance over a wide range of operating temperatures and severe environmental conditions. Calcium Sulphonate greases possess an exceptionally high melting point of 300 degrees celsius, and together with high thermal stability can be used for long periods at 200 degrees celsius.

The oil is pro-lon Extreme Pressure Professional Spray Lubricant - The blurb - The ultimate choice in spray lubricants now containing the latest Enhanced Polymer Technology ( E.P.T ) with P.T.F.E.

We bought the grease in 450 gram cartridges and the oil in 400 gram pressure packs.

Website www.anglomoil.com.au (http://www.anglomoil.com.au)

I would think that similar products are available in the USA and New Zealand. The Australian suppliers are - Anglo Design Pty Ltd Ph (02) 9457 8566. They are located at Mt Kuringai ( near Sydney ). Note that although they were happy to supply the lubricants, they did not want to organise freight - so i organised it myself.

As i lost all of this info on friday when i tried to post it, i will stop at this point and go to part 2 in the next post - Just in case.

Rocket.

The lubricants i wrote about are latest technology new age stuff.
If you wanted to save money - 10W motor oil and wheel bearing grease would suffice. Other members may have suggestions also.

Lubrication Points for Grease.
Apply grease to all teeth where gears run - along length of machine at bottom of rails and along width of gantry. On the gantry the teeth are on the top on one side and near the bottom on the other side.
Also apply to threaded area where spindle travels up and down.
There are also about six grease nipples. You will need a grease gun which has quite a small nozzle. The grease nipples are very small and there is limited access to them. It may be necessary to use a lathe to machine the nozzle down to a size that will fit onto the nipples. In my case i do not have access to a lathe so i just used my bench grinder.

Lubrication with oil.
Apply oil to the top of the hiwin rails. This is along length of machine and also across the gantry.

Lubrication frequency.
This will depend upon how much use your machine has. We have instigated a program to grease the machine every week. At the end of each working day we wipe the rails and then use the spray oil on them.
Be careful and put a cloth onto the router table so that no oil spills onto the spoilboard. Our panels are spray painted after routering so we cannot have any oil on the panels.

You should be aware that MDF dust needs to be kept away from lubricated areas. So always use dust extraction to keep dust to a minimum and wipe the lubricated areas regularly to prevent buildup.

When your machine arrives it will have an anti rust goo on the rails and teeth. You MUST use a wax and grease remover to clean all of this off before you lube the machine prior to initial start up.

Rocket.

Re-Lube re can'ts,
Rocquette,my mate has a Becker VTLF500,same series as yours.Rotary vane oil less.Sounds good,no lube?There is a weird grease point which is a hole requiring a grease cartridge with a long needle.This tiny cartridge cost 85bucks Canadian.The pump was sounding bad as my mate was turning it on and off between sheets and only using it 5 hrs/week.The pump will last a long time if run all day,same as the spindle bearings.Shutting down for breaks is hard on bearings.If you cannot find the grease fitting,Jim may send over the Cam master girls to show you.:cheers:
Larry

Hi all.

Have been in CNC hibernation for a while, waiting for my machine to arrive.
I have been reading the lubrication advices from our Australian friends and I was wondering:

When my machine arrives, I need to clean it. Do you use a degreaser to get rid of everything? We just bought a lathe her at work and using the degreaser on this made it clean, but possibly dried it out in some areas. Of course, re-lubrication fixes this, but I was just wondering if this was the way to go for the rails?

Lubrication:
What type of oil do you use on the rails? There is so many different boxes that I have to say I'm lost. Silicon Oil, Industrial oil,Teflube,Penetrating oil,multi fluid - all in spray cans.
I had a look at CRC products and was wondering, is there anything you guys could recommend since CRC seems to be a multi national brand?
See www.crcind.com or http://www.crcind.com/csp/web/Countrypage.CSP?country=NO&lng=3

I was kind of surprised to hear that the buys on our harbor claims $660 in what-ever kind of charges for my machine. It's more than the shipping it self of the machine to Norway :confused:

Most likely would the machine arrive next week, so I'm crossing my fingers and hope everything has survived the trip. It needs to be shipped with a freight company another 1300Km....

K

G`day Kent, Nice to know that your machine is not far away from you.

I would not use degreaser to remove the factory " Goo " from the rails.
If you go to a paint shop you will be able to buy " wax and grease remover " in a 4 litre tin. It is quite cheap - should cost less than twenty dollars. It is a clear fluid and will take the goo off quite easily without leaving an awful smell and is not harsh like degreaser.

Not a good idea to use crc products or any type of penetrating fluid on the rails. It needs to be a lubricating oil. 10w motor oil would be O.K., although i prefer the new technology Spray Lubricant. It is an oil which contains P.T.F.E. which is a superior lubricant. I like the spray pack because it is easier to apply. Did you check out the website in the link that i put up in my previous post. Here is another link -
www.pro-lon-ptfe.com (http://www.pro-lon-ptfe.com)

Don`t argue with the port charges - If you do they will just find more charges to hit you with, or delay delivery. They are a bunch of greedy ar..holes. It is the same in all countries ( or so it seems ).

Hope it all goes well for you. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon12.gif

Rocket.

Hi Larry, Been busy and could use a few of those Tsingtaos to wind down a bit.

Thanks for the info about the grease nipple on the vacuum pump. I will check it out - can`t afford to replace the pump anytime soon so i had better maintain it properly.

Would be lovely if Jim could send over the camaster girls.... If he does it will not be the nipples on the machine that i will be playing with!http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gifhttp://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon10.gif

Rocket.

Kent, Have just had a good look through the crc website and may have come across a similar spray lubricant to the one that we use.

It is called Power Lube + PTFE
crc part no. 102453131242

Came across this in the Lubricant section - Sub heading - Industrial.

Rocket.

I have found a similar product here in NZ called Super Lube. It has Syncolon PTFE and comes as an oil, a grease and also in a spray can. I will see if I can pick some up tomorrow as Blacks Fasteners in Christchurch has some.

Also our machine is due to be delivered from the port to work sometime tomorrow.

Shannon

Rocket,

Thanks for the info. Very much appreciated.

Spencer.

Shannon and Spencer, It is great to be able to assist where possible.

I am still an absolute newbie to all of this cnc business. When we were waiting for our machine to arrive i was absolutely sh..ing myself about it. I had many doubts... Would we be able to operate it, was it a good choice of machine, could we figure out the software, etc.

The assistance of all the contributors on the cnczone was fabulous. They guided us through it and made it a whole lot less daunting. We are now making good money with our Excitech and our confidence in the use of cnc routers is growing every week.

So if we can assist other new comers it will be very gratifying to us to be able to return the favour.

Rocket.

I have found a similar product here in NZ called Super Lube. It has Syncolon PTFE and comes as an oil, a grease and also in a spray can. I will see if I can pick some up tomorrow as Blacks Fasteners in Christchurch has some.

Also our machine is due to be delivered from the port to work sometime tomorrow.

Shannon

Hi Shannon, The Super Lube should do the job well.

Big day coming up for you. Have you got your camera ready?
It will be great to see some photos of the arrival and unloading of your machine.
Be sure to avoid the temptation to crank it up before you remove the gunk from the rails, and give it a good Lube job.
Congratulations.

Rocket.

Hello All,

I ordered my SHMS1530C today so now starts the wait. I want to thank all contributors to this link for helping me make my decision. I'm sure I'll be asking many questions in the future, so please stay around for a while.

Mitch

good on ya!!! which state are you in are you in gilbert sc

Cabnet,

I'm in Gilbert Arizona which is a suburb of Phoenix. Thanks for your support.

Hi Shannon, The Super Lube should do the job well.

Big day coming up for you. Have you got your camera ready?
It will be great to see some photos of the arrival and unloading of your machine.
Be sure to avoid the temptation to crank it up before you remove the gunk from the rails, and give it a good Lube job.
Congratulations.

Rocket.

We have it out of its container and we do have pics, you will have to wait as I don't have my USB lead on me(nuts) The rails on mine have no gunk on them, just a light oil and plastic wrap:D:D, should make things easier. there is a bit of rust inside the spindle ISO30 taper which is about the worst dissapointment. Other than that we got a FREE air compressor and its in metallic blue, Cheers Taney:rainfro::wee:

There area few other little bits and bobs that need fixing but we knew that before we ordered. Pics to come later.

Overall very pleased with the machine so far, but we won't get the power on for another week and a half.
Shannon.

Shannon,

Congrats on getting your machine. Taney told us the CNC includes a 4HP compressor for the ATC. I saw a picture of it and it was blue. We upgraded our compressor to a 10HP so that we don't need to purchase another one for the shop to run staplers and nailers.

Did you get a vacuum pump, if so which one? Was it shipped inside the container, not on the table? If you ordered the dust extraction, did it include an actual dust extractor or just the collection unit for the spindle to which you attach your own dust extractor?

I ask because at the last minute we decided to get the dust extractor and misting kits for our SHMS1530C, but wasn't really sure what exactly they included.

Another question for the forum, does anyone know if the Vacuum/T-Slot table has locator pins, not really required with the T-slot table, but was wondering.

Eager to see some pics!

That would be like this compressor :D It didn't stay in it's 'cage' very long with my bro around, note the jemmy bar at the bottom of the pic.

edit 1; I ordered a basic SHM1530 router without vacuum or dust extractor, we did get the shoe that goes on the spindle for connecting to a dust extractor unit( I have the dust extractor already) I also hope to get a reconditioned vacuum pump locally for a lot less than a new one from china, If and when we start to make some money we will get a newer vacuum pump.

edit 2; :D I should also mention that my machine has no waxy stuff on the rails but has been greased and covered with plastic to stop it rusting, It has worked very well and saves a lot of cleaning down.

Shannon.

Enough pics of a crate coming out of a container yet (nuts)

(chair)

LOL.

I have started a new thread here,
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=436469#post436469
If anyone wants to see pics of more than a crate and a container :D.

Shannon.

That would be like this compressor :D It didn't stay in it's 'cage' very long with my bro around, note the jemmy bar at the bottom of the pic.

edit 1; I ordered a basic SHM1530 router without vacuum or dust extractor, we did get the shoe that goes on the spindle for connecting to a dust extractor unit( I have the dust extractor already) I also hope to get a reconditioned vacuum pump locally for a lot less than a new one from china, If and when we start to make some money we will get a newer vacuum pump.

edit 2; :D I should also mention that my machine has no waxy stuff on the rails but has been greased and covered with plastic to stop it rusting, It has worked very well and saves a lot of cleaning down.

Shannon.

Looks great, if that's the 4HP, the 10HP version must be massive. I know the 10HP comes with a 1CBM(260GAL) tank.

I understand, we already have customers once we receive the machine so it wasn't worth the time and hassle to source vacuum pumps and the rest of it as we need to be up and running ASAP. At almost half the price we went with the chinese version of the Becker VTLF250. We have a huge outdoor cyclone extractor available to us, just need to tie into it, but wanted a smaller unit for when we work with non-wood materials.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Spencer.

Exitech may have changed the grease they are using but the stuff on my screws and gears when delivered was nasty looking gunk, almost like tallow or some low grade soap product.

Given several of us have found drilling and tapping shards in critical areas it might pay you to have a careful look around before getting two may hours up.




That would be like this compressor :D It didn't stay in it's 'cage' very long with my bro around, note the jemmy bar at the bottom of the pic.

edit 1; I ordered a basic SHM1530 router without vacuum or dust extractor, we did get the shoe that goes on the spindle for connecting to a dust extractor unit( I have the dust extractor already) I also hope to get a reconditioned vacuum pump locally for a lot less than a new one from china, If and when we start to make some money we will get a newer vacuum pump.

edit 2; :D I should also mention that my machine has no waxy stuff on the rails but has been greased and covered with plastic to stop it rusting, It has worked very well and saves a lot of cleaning down.

Shannon.

Exitech may have changed the grease they are using but the stuff on my screws and gears when delivered was nasty looking gunk, almost like tallow or some low grade soap product.

Given several of us have found drilling and tapping shards in critical areas it might pay you to have a careful look around before getting two may hours up.

Mine has all the swarf in the usual areas too, some of the paint has been put on over top of it too:confused:. I am in the process of cleaning the whole machine down and removing some of the rust that has been acquired while in transit.

There is also some minor damage to a seal on one of the Z-axis bearing blocks, I suspect when the thread were tapped for the bolt that hold the router on. It should be fine but I will remove the router mount plate and fix it up. The router is off the machine for now anyhow :D

Shannon.

man i am impressed, the real deal is we really can't get the router as i expensive as we think in the US and with the prices and quality of chinese goods going up. there may well be a resurgence of manufacturing in the US.

keep the photos coming this is helpful jim

You can help me here Shannon- I haven't pulled the head off yet but intend to when I get some down time...

I noticed the issue when dressing the spoilboard with a 3" cutter, the pattern left later vefified by feeler gauges (yes crude I know but I mainly machine non ferrous materials so don't have a regular need for determining ultra fine tollerances) revealed the spindle is out about .06mm across the width of the 3" cutter.

Having looked at your photo's of the mounting system it appears there is some play in the clearance between ID of mounting holes and machine screw diameter in fixing the plate to the bearing blocks. Maybe I can just loosen the bolts and and move things around a touch.



Mine has all the swarf in the usual areas too, some of the paint has been put on over top of it too:confused:. I am in the process of cleaning the whole machine down and removing some of the rust that has been acquired while in transit.

There is also some minor damage to a seal on one of the Z-axis bearing blocks, I suspect when the thread were tapped for the bolt that hold the router on. It should be fine but I will remove the router mount plate and fix it up. The router is off the machine for now anyhow :D

Shannon.

Jimmy,

I think they call that being out of 'Trammel' off the top of my head (edit:not the case really, just out of square), you should be able to adjust it a bit with the play in the bolts. I did notice that the holes have a tapered surface where the head of the cap screw rests. The holes should really be bored with a mill but they look like they have just been drilled out to size. This could affect it when you try to adjust the trammel by not letting the heads of the cap screws sit anywhere else.

The other thing to look at is the X axis squareness, that can be fixed with shims between the two Z axis plates or the router and its mount (if it has one like mine).

There is a way to get it square without expensive tools, but I can't quite remember it. There is a discussion on this forum somewhere about it though. It has to do with the phenomenon that you describe when machining the bed flat though.

I have had a passing thought that checking the spindle being square would to be something I need to check on my machine though.

Edit, here are a couple of threads. If you have a Dial indicator the first one looks good.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40253&highlight=trammel
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47519&highlight=trammel

Shannon.

By the looks of things it seems that tramming is what you do to get the spindle square and a trammel is what you use.

Anyway, here is a pic of one of the holes in the spindle mounting plate, I have put a red arrow pointing to the ring where the bolt head was sitting on the tapered inner surface. It would be far better if this surface was flat as it would give a much stronger joint and would be easier to adjust the squareness of the spindle.

Jimmy, I would still give squaring it a try if I were you.

Shannon.

hey guys, not posted on here for ages. Very pleased with excitech machine, gets used every day for at least 4 hours and hasnt skipped a beat.

One thing that is definately a pain is having to scroll through the dsp controller to select the programs. We have about 250 split on a couple of usb`s and its driving me mad finding them soooo slow to scroll.

Did anyone get mach3 conversion done on theirs? Selecting a program from the computer is instantaneous with that..

Or is there a way to run the excitech via the computer having all the program files on that instead and only using the dsp for positioning?

Dougie,

I would be inclined to use the USB flash drive for file transfer and just running that particular file on the machine, rather than storage of all my cut files. There is lots of hard drive space on the computer for that. It might take a little longer at the computer to load each file but should speed things up at the machine end a lot. There will also be less risk of cutting the wrong file when there are a lot on the machine (been there done that).

I hope to get Mach3 running on my machine but at this stage I am focusing on just getting it up and running.

Loading the files directly into the DSP via USB would be great, I'm not sure if it's able to be done or anything like that??:confused:

Shannon.

G`day fellas, We had a minor issue with our spoilboard today.

Ramon was routering a rebate in the back of an MDF panel for a inlaid mirror, and for some strange reason the rebate - which was supposed to be 20mm wide - started on one end at 20mm but was only 12mm at the other end. Hmmmm ...... What gives?

He checked the dimensions on the V Carve Pro design.... no problem there. Tried again - same problem.

After some head scratching we peeled back the tape that helps to seal the edges of the spoilboard and found that it had shifted on one end by 8mm.
It was an easy fix. Simply moved it back into position and countersunk 4 screws through the spoilboard into the bakelite table top. The moral of the story - You need to secure the spoilboard.

Rocket.

been there, done that!!!

all of you posting with the new machine arivals and the now eexperience of the ones who recieved your machines in the last few months is great, keep it up
jim

ps you may also want to secure the sides in quarters as well.

Sounds like you guys are having some 'fun' :D

Hey does anyone know how to use the tool sensor that it attached to the Z-axis, I think it has something to with the C.A.D feature in the DSP but as yet haven't managed to sort it out. Not having a working machine might have something to do with that :rolleyes:. A rundown on how to use it would be great.

Shannon.

Hi Guys,

I have finally got my software sorted and can now download files from my PC via USB into the DSP unit. The system settings in the DSP have to be non-traditional (the part in the menus where it asks you to press 'OK' for traditional, just press cancel). The software that comes on the DSP cd has to be installed, mine seemed to need to be run as a win 95 application to get it to work, YMMV. Once that installed you can connect the DSP to the PC via USB, then open the program RZNC0501.

You can view toolpaths in the window and can use the operations menu to download files to the DSP and to upload file from it. You will be downloading the files directly from their location on the hard drive rather than the one loaded in the window.

If anyone needs further details let me know.

Here is a screenshot.
Shannon.

fellows this program is truley underrated!! on just about everything i have tried to do with any other program i have just learned more about what i can do with it. we had to cut wine bottle bases for a hilton hotel and it would have taken us hours to machine all of the pieces we needed. photos coming
jim

Sounds like you guys are having some 'fun' :D

Hey does anyone know how to use the tool sensor that it attached to the Z-axis, I think it has something to with the C.A.D feature in the DSP but as yet haven't managed to sort it out. Not having a working machine might have something to do with that :rolleyes:. A rundown on how to use it would be great.

Shannon.

Ramon does not use the tool sensor. He does it manually by setting the z -zero at the top of the material to be routered.

When you work out how to use it .......please let us know.http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

Rocket.

fellows this program is truley underrated!! on just about everything i have tried to do with any other program i have just learned more about what i can do with it. we had to cut wine bottle bases for a hilton hotel and it would have taken us hours to machine all of the pieces we needed. photos coming
jim

G`day Jim, I totally agree with you. We have not used the supplied software at all with our machine.

V Carve Pro will do everything that we require.

Rocket.

Ramon does not use the tool sensor. He does it manually by setting the z -zero at the top of the material to be routered.

When you work out how to use it .......please let us know.http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

Rocket.

Do you guys use the thin paper trick, where you jog the spindle (turned off) down onto a bit of paper on top of the material until it just grabs the paper, then set the Z-zero?

Shannon.

Yes!

after joey set up my tool sensor which on my m,achine is an aluminum plate 1/2" thick with a 1/8" piece of plexi attached to prevent contact on the base. so it is a total of .625 " thick we have set it to set the tool depth at
.70 and it works like a charm! we have done several pieces where tool changes are required and once i got it, well thats it!! jim

Jim,

Are you using the DSP? I think everyone has stated at various times what setup they are using, but its a long long thread and I could be here all night looking it up :D Maybe we need an excitech setups thread where we list our setups.

If you are using the DSP, could give us a detailed rundown on how to setup the tool sensor,? The manual has next to nothing about it. Cheers.

Shannon.

i have a US built machine and purchased it at 8 years old with a dos controller.

this was to old to teach on or use so i tried mach three (which i am sure is a great controller and widely accepted) but my machine builder was more familiar with wincnc so this is what i have. jim

I guess you will have a far easier time of it with WinCNC than we have with the DSP :cool:

Shannon.

our computer is too close to the machine for two reasons, 1) the 37 pin cable is only 6-8' long and this could be fixed 2) to move the machine i have to use the arrow keys and when you are by yourself it's agrivating to set xy etc. i cam move computer further but the hand held is another 350.00 so i am sure i'll get one jim

G`day Shannon,
Nice to hear you have received your machine,looks good.
I like the ATC spindle,very nice, interested to see how it runs.


re:Zero tool
I am not using the dsp anymore ,so I only have what I can remember when I used it.

Goto Machine setup in the menu,(on the DSP) and keep skipping until you find "CAD Thickness".
measure the little round brass piece`s thickness , thats attached to the machine with the curly cord, about 12.xxx mm If I remember right.
Enter this in the CAD Thickness,
Then ,place the brass piece on the work piece ,jog the Z axis down close to the top of the brass piece (say 2mm) then on the DSP ,press Menu and then ON/OFF,togeather.
FROM THE MANUAL:
Its operating mode goes like this: Press button and then ，then free them at the same time. Then Z axis goes down slowly, when it reach the Cutter Adjust Slot, it will go up. Then Z axis working origin set.

And thats it,easy? The Z axis is now zeroed to your work piece.


But since you have a nice ATC spindle you will probably need another system to run the ATC side of things (ie mach3 or something), so the dsp cant be used,(well I dont thick it can).

In Mach3 you can write and call up macros that do all of that (ie ATC),
I am looking into that at the moment,but cant get much help from the supplier/company,


Hope this helps
Regards
Jubee

Thanks Jubee,

I have the macro for the tool change for mach3, haven't got a mach3 license though but its on the list of things to get.

The way to use the ATC spindle with the DSP is to set all the tools to the same length in the collets, Then when the tool is manually changed it doesn't have to be re-zeroed to the workpiece as all the tool tips are the same length.

There is a thread here on CNCzone about the ATC setup and macros for mach3, not sure where though.

Shannon.

Hi Guys,
I have SHG 0609 Excitech Router, can some one tell me how to wire home made probe on the machine.

Do you mean a tool sensor probe?

Nope, the digital probe.

i made a part payment of 30% for an SHMS1224d to the chinese manufacturers, but on receiving the payment, i was informed i had to make another payment for the drills, both horizontal and vertical going to about 14000 USD. can anyone please advice me if i should continue or i should settle for the lesser SHMS1325C. if i was told about the hidden charges before i made the transfer, i would not have done the transfer. will the full option of SHMS1325c nest cabinets perfectly without the side cutters and the other horizontal drills. i need an urgent advice.

G`day priestwood, Sounds like a bit of a dilemna.

With good software your cabinets would come out fine on the 1325 machine.

Not sure about the drilling part. I believe that some people have an extra drill fitted to their gantry - probably the best way.

Suggest you communicate with Jim ( cabnet636 ), he is a cabinet maker and will have your answer.

How much was the fancy machine?

Rocket.

actually i am not sure what he means by drills? what do you intend to do with your machine?

rocket, what type of vacuum do you have, how much hg and cfms??

i may switch jim

Is it like the drill unit on the multicam in this video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sflJel9ye7Q&feature=related
But maybe with a 4th and 5th axis for drilling the sides of sheets?

Jim, I am looking at getting one of these vacuum pumps for my router.
http://www.machineking.com/2007_becker_vtlf_250_sk_vacuum_pump.html
Although will purchase from locally here in NZ, We have one on the machine at work (well used to be work)


Shannon.

G`day Jim, The pump is the VAT3.140, 129CBM/H, 4.5KW

It cost us $3,900 and has performed flawlessly so far, but remember that we are routering big panels most of the time - although we have recently made some small signs, nothing has moved whilst being routered other than our spoilboard which is now screwed down.

I believe that priestwood is talking about the drill for the purpose of drilling the " system 32 " shelf pin holes.
Was it KeithG who had the drill fitted to his gantry by camaster?

Saw on the news tonight that you have just had an earthquake in the mid-west. Hope nobody was hurt. Might give your home builders some work to do.

Rocket.

Ramon told me today that he is being " zapped " by static electricity when he touches the router.

He believes that it could be the dust collector generating it.

Anybody have any theories on the cause of this - and how to overcome it?

Rocket.

thank you rocket,

we have finally settled for the full option of shms1325c . i was really confused because the chinese were not ready to give good advice on the machines. the machine was 38600 USD. they wanted 14000 USD for a vertical drill and horizontal cutters, also thank you for making reference to jim. you also refered to a good software on shms1325c, please kindly advice.

will also like to inform jim that we make kitchen cabinets, wardrobes and office tables. what they meant by drills were the horizontal drills/cutters and vertical drills for euro cabinets or 32mm frameless cabinets.

Ramon told me today that he is being " zapped " by static electricity when he touches the router.

He believes that it could be the dust collector generating it.

Anybody have any theories on the cause of this - and how to overcome it?

Rocket.

Tell Ramon to tap the back of his fingernails against the router be for hi touches it. That will discharge the static without the hurt. I used to work in printing and thats what we did when the static was real bad.

Tell Ramon to tap the back of his fingernails against the router be for hi touches it. That will discharge the static without the hurt. I used to work in printing and thats what we did when the static was real bad.

fixtureman1, Thankyou - Ramon said that he just about burnt his fingers yesterday. I will let him know.

Your post suggested that static electricity build up varies. Any idea what causes it ?

I am wondering if a leather or rubber strap from the machine to the concrete floor might help to overcome the problem?

Rocket.

thank you rocket,

we have finally settled for the full option of shms1325c . i was really confused because the chinese were not ready to give good advice on the machines. the machine was 38600 USD. they wanted 14000 USD for a vertical drill and horizontal cutters, also thank you for making reference to jim. you also refered to a good software on shms1325c, please kindly advice.

will also like to inform jim that we make kitchen cabinets, wardrobes and office tables. what they meant by drills were the horizontal drills/cutters and vertical drills for euro cabinets or 32mm frameless cabinets.

Hi priestwood - Great choice of machine. The SHMS1325C will certainly do a fantastic job.

The supplied type3 or Ucancam software is probably not going to do the job for you.

Many of us are using V Carve Pro for most of our work. I believe that Jim is having success with cabinetpartspro for his nesting operations, which is not expensive ( only a few hundred dollars ).

If you do not mind spending about $6,000 - There is software called En route Pro which is often mentioned as being excellent for the cabinet making industry.

The more experienced cnc men may have some other ideas for you.

Rocket.

Rocket,

I got zapped by the machine at work the other day, not badly but enough to give me a fright :D, I think the plastic ducting without a grounded metal coil inside it works as a very good Van Der Graf (sp?) generator.

Ramon is wearing a nylon tracksuit and shoes by any chance :D j/k :p

Shannon.

Ramon is wearing a nylon tracksuit and shoes by any chance j/k

Hi Shannon, I do believe that you are absolutely correct!

Rocket.

we are using cabinetparts pro with great success and vcarve pro, everytime i start looking at other software i just learn what i can do with what i already have!! in vcarve this week we made files and ran all of our fluted pieces, pie cut lazy susans, (these were very time consuming in the past!!) and some mouldings. we are beginning to look for better vacuum though as the regen blower is just not enough i added the fein vacuums and they will actually reverse the regen blower. so i am going vacuum pump..


priestwood
when the horizontal and vertical drills are being discussed i get the impression he's looking for point to point or 5 axis machining? the excitechs are 3 axis and he may be asking for an extra z jim

Here is my first post so bear with me.
I think that the static charge is stored in Ramon and is been discharged to earth through the machine.
If the floor where Ramon does his computer work has carpet then this along with his nylon attire may be the problem.
You can get anti static liquid that is used to reduce the likely hood of static build up from most cleaning supply companies.
However if he is constanly getting a shock from the machine get your sparky to look at the earthing as a matter of urgency
Yours BobT

Kent, Have just had a good look through the crc website and may have come across a similar spray lubricant to the one that we use.

It is called Power Lube + PTFE
crc part no. 102453131242

Came across this in the Lubricant section - Sub heading - Industrial.

Rocket.

I have been traveling for a week and have not been able to get back to the subject. I have found this oil, which is available locally :
http://www.elfaelektroonika.ee/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?artnr=80-819-12&lng=eng

I guess this could do the trick as well?

There is also someone who sells the pictured grease gun and grease which suppose to be used on linear units. Does it look any good?

Machine has arrived the country, but needs to be shipped further 1200Km by a freight company before it arrives at it's home. Have not seen it yet, but I plan to have a welcome comity when the car arrives :D

Have not received any information about the Yako drives and the 4th axis so it might be that the 4th axis option is a waste ....

I'll drop some pictures when I have something to show and I cross my fingers that the whole thing arrives safely.

K

Yako drive manual
http://en.yankong.com/newEbiz1/EbizPortalFG/portal/html/ProductInfoExhibit.html?ProductInfoExhibit_ProductID=c373e9104f4f07f88fefa4f3b0b29aaa&ProductInfoExhibit_isRefreshParent=false#
Link is in red at the bottom of the page.

Shannon.

Shannon;

Thanks a bunch. I have been waiting for that one for a looooong time, but I did actually receive the manuals from Taney today. I have also received a translation of a intro to the 4th axis DSP which Taney have done for me.

It's for sure better than nothing at all and I'll give it a read now.

Thanks.

K

So it uses the DSP, but runs the fourth axis from it, that sounds interesting. I noticed the extra axis on the controller card inside the machine control box. I guess it uses custom software for the DSP too?

I also have manuals for the home sensors and the linear rails. If anyone is interested I can find the links again.

Shannon.

Shannon,

Yupp, I've got a custom DSP which I guess is a firmware update which enables the 4th axis control. This was not a standard option and I also had to add a extra Yako drive to control the stepper.

I would be interested in as much documentation as possible so it would be interesting with those links as well.

What do you think about that oil-thing I found? Any good?

K

Any grease with PTFE would do the trick I would think, but high pressure stuff might be better??? The super lube I have says its general purpose grease with PTFE. I haven't really looked to hard but it might specify in the linear guideway manual below.

I'm not sure what the exchange rate is for you but I thought the price was in euros to start with :D

Link for linear guideway manual, quite technical :D
http://www.hiwin.com/catalogs/linear_guideway_G99TE10-0607.pdf

Proximity sensor link
http://www.omron247.com/doc/pdfcatal.nsf/77262855712F907986256B0500509EB8/$FILE/D06TLQTLG1101.pdf

Do you have the manual for your spindle? Mine came on one of the CDs with the documentation but I had downloaded it prior to purchasing the machine anyway.

Shannon.

Do you have the manual for your spindle? Mine came on one of the CDs with the documentation but I had downloaded it prior to purchasing the machine anyway.

Shannon


I could use a spindle manual for sure! Does anyone have a link to a pdf?

Mark

I don't have the manual for my spindle, but then I'm not 100% sure the type number so I would wait until I have unpacked my machine. It's on it's last 1200Km journey now, picking it up Friday :)

K

Here is my first post so bear with me.
I think that the static charge is stored in Ramon and is been discharged to earth through the machine.
If the floor where Ramon does his computer work has carpet then this along with his nylon attire may be the problem.
You can get anti static liquid that is used to reduce the likely hood of static build up from most cleaning supply companies.
However if he is constanly getting a shock from the machine get your sparky to look at the earthing as a matter of urgency
Yours BobT

Bob, i believe that the static may indeed be in Ramon ( He is always highly charged ). We do not have carpet in the office - It is all concrete.

So i think i will play it safe and call in Charlie the chinese electrician and have him check it out.

Thanks. Rocket.

Hi fellas, Have not been on the forum for a few days. We have just bought a property down the South East and have to get ready to go down there and start working on it this weekend.

Kent, Good to see that your machine is about to arrive.

The lubricant in your link will surely do an excellent job. Bit confused about the price ? Surely it is not $85 per tin? Must be for a box of the stuff - unless you have rampant inflation in your country.

Good luck with it all.

Rocket.

I have tried to contact Excitech via email but they bounce back:confused:
Does anyone know whats going on?
BobT

Hi Bob, contact Taney on this Email taney@sh-cnc.com

He is totally on the ball.

Rocket.

http://www.hsd.it/prodotti.asp?ente=1&co_id=1080

Link for the HSD spindles, I think each manual covers several variations of spindle, If you are having any trouble finding the right one let me know.

Shannon.

After reading this thread since Christmas, I have some memory of what to check when the machine arrives and I'm now trying to summarize for my self.
Any thing forgotten, please copy and paste my list so we could collect some of these issues in one post. I have no chance going back through this thread making a note of all issues mentioned, so I do therefor have a go after memory:

1:Cleaning the Hiwin rails. Use paint thinner in big cans together with towels of cotton fabric not paper . Use high tech lubrication with PTFE.

2:Cleaning of cogwheels with the same thinner and use quality grease on these and the additional "cogwheel rails".

3: Check earthing of table. Table should be earthed either by separate cable or to the mains cable. Chocks has been noted when touching the touch probe and the table at the same time.

4:Check mains cabling and see if everything is OK. If not, contact a electrician to have the machine checked.

5:Check table flatness. If heavy items has been parked there during transfer, table might have become unleveled and needs to be leveled by applying a thin plate which could be machined flat with constant height from the Z axis.

6:Secure the DSP cable since it's placed on the machines side - however pointing forward which makes it easy to trip/stand on and may be damaged. Possibly relocate this.

7:Squareness of axis. Check if the X and Y axis needs small adjustments to go leveled. How do we do this ? Or have I misunderstood this part?

8:Check for the Z axis mounting angle compared to the table. 90´should be the case and the spindle might need small adjustments with respect to the table by loosening the screws and possibly move it slightly. This is however not to easy since the holes in the mounting of the spindle is coned and not flat faced. Did I get this right ?

9:If you don't have a dust collector - Make one! Needed to keep dust from the rails and increase machines life.

10: Change some of the critical screws with high quality screws ? Correct ?

11: Alway clean and lubricate all Hiwin rails / linear motion weekly together with the cogwheel areas. This to prevent any thing going dry and wear out - possibly get stuck.

12: Clean out any rust when arriving and seal this with some kind of oil to prevent any increase of rust. Critical areas must be polished clean and treated.

.
.
.
.
Any thing missed ? Please add


K

1. mine came oiled and covered in plastic, no cleaning required, some slight rust areas on linear rails.

4. I don't think the machines come with the mains cable but the is a terminal block inside to get your electrician to hook a mains cable up to.

8, keep an eye on my thread as I will be doing this in the next few days or so.

9, also helps with the lifespan of the operator too :D

Shannon.

john was kind enough to send a sample of multipanel although it is comparabable to sign foam it may have much more exterior resistance hence the marine nature of how they market it.

i was doing some apartment signs today and ran a piece of multipanel while i was at it. the largest piece he sent was a 7x10 x 1/4" thick so i honored rocket fort starting this thread!!!! jim

i do this with vcarve pro

Rocket- almost 100% you have the same problem as I did- dust particles doing warp nine up collection tube often generate massive amounts of potential for discharge on my machine.

Ramon told me today that he is being " zapped " by static electricity when he touches the router.

He believes that it could be the dust collector generating it.

Anybody have any theories on the cause of this - and how to overcome it?

Rocket.

Rust on linear rails?

I assumed they were stainless steel- mine certainly havent rusted and my workshop is very close to the ocean, anything that can rust usually does at a VERY rapid rate.........

1. mine came oiled and covered in plastic, no cleaning required, some slight rust areas on linear rails.

4. I don't think the machines come with the mains cable but the is a terminal block inside to get your electrician to hook a mains cable up to.

8, keep an eye on my thread as I will be doing this in the next few days or so.

9, also helps with the lifespan of the operator too :D

Shannon.

Kent,

1. & 2. Paint thinner will likely cause issues with painted surfaces, use degreaser, kero, prepsol or some other less agressive solvent. Lube doesn't have to PTFE formulation- you are looking for something that will not be overly gluggy but sticks well, seek guidance from your local lubrication suppliers for a suitable product.

3. Table MUST be earthed to main supply earth conductor. Seperate earth is a VERY bad idea for many reasons. Shock from probe is not a major issue, probe works by closing circuit when touching tool tip- probably 5v DC (12 Max).









After reading this thread since Christmas, I have some memory of what to check when the machine arrives and I'm now trying to summarize for my self.
Any thing forgotten, please copy and paste my list so we could collect some of these issues in one post. I have no chance going back through this thread making a note of all issues mentioned, so I do therefor have a go after memory:

1:Cleaning the Hiwin rails. Use paint thinner in big cans together with towels of cotton fabric not paper . Use high tech lubrication with PTFE.

2:Cleaning of cogwheels with the same thinner and use quality grease on these and the additional "cogwheel rails".

3: Check earthing of table. Table should be earthed either by separate cable or to the mains cable. Chocks has been noted when touching the touch probe and the table at the same time.

4:Check mains cabling and see if everything is OK. If not, contact a electrician to have the machine checked.

5:Check table flatness. If heavy items has been parked there during transfer, table might have become unleveled and needs to be leveled by applying a thin plate which could be machined flat with constant height from the Z axis.

6:Secure the DSP cable since it's placed on the machines side - however pointing forward which makes it easy to trip/stand on and may be damaged. Possibly relocate this.

7:Squareness of axis. Check if the X and Y axis needs small adjustments to go leveled. How do we do this ? Or have I misunderstood this part?

8:Check for the Z axis mounting angle compared to the table. 90´should be the case and the spindle might need small adjustments with respect to the table by loosening the screws and possibly move it slightly. This is however not to easy since the holes in the mounting of the spindle is coned and not flat faced. Did I get this right ?

9:If you don't have a dust collector - Make one! Needed to keep dust from the rails and increase machines life.

10: Change some of the critical screws with high quality screws ? Correct ?

11: Alway clean and lubricate all Hiwin rails / linear motion weekly together with the cogwheel areas. This to prevent any thing going dry and wear out - possibly get stuck.

12: Clean out any rust when arriving and seal this with some kind of oil to prevent any increase of rust. Critical areas must be polished clean and treated.

.
.
.
.
Any thing missed ? Please add


K

Rust on linear rails?

I assumed they were stainless steel- mine certainly havent rusted and my workshop is very close to the ocean, anything that can rust usually does at a VERY rapid rate.........

I think they are a high grade, ground steel, it doesn't take much oil on them to stop the rust, and if you are using the machine at all the grease will cover the rails. I think a couple of patches on mine had been missed by the oil, hence the slight rusting.

The Kero works great on getting grease off, it will soften the paint slightly after sitting on it for 15 mins though, found that out when taking the glue off my bed. Still won't take the paint completely off though.

Shannon.

Hi all.

We managed to pick up the machine today. The freight company had a to small car and could not drive it out to me, so I had to get my brother in laws truck to pick it up. It has a lift.

The package was BIG. Mine is for sure not as large as many of yours but for my work it was more than expected:)

This would be a short post - I would be getting back with pics and other stuff when the machine is finally installed.

First impression is for sure GREAT !!!! One cable tube was loose (the one going down to the spindle), no rust and no ga ga on the rails/cogwheels. Everything was sealed with plastic and greased and lubricated accordingly.

I'll be back with more tomorrow.

A happy man which is going for one of these now :cheers:

Thanks Tanney

Kent

Excellent, Hurry up with those pics though :D:D

Shannon.

Well, I could not wait. Here is some shots I did even if I was eager like a kid on Christmas :D

No big plan in the shots, but I did shoot some different angles. The machine is still on the pallet (or how it's spelled) and we would try to park it tomorrow.

Kent

For those interested. For those who have one this is old news, but for others which is considering, here's more :)

I hope you survive these shots done in a way to quick way.
The red hose is for the mist cooling system which is not mounted yet.
Last round of pics today.

K

After mine its Mini Me :D

Maybe you could also start another thread with your machine, it makes it easier to find info, but no worries if you don't want to :D

Shannon.

well done kent, looks like a cracker. Its a long time since you first asked me about the Heiz cnc machine and I bet your chuffed you went this route instead. Would love to see pics of 4th axis when you get all that setup :)

Mark,

I really appreciate the discussions we have had in respect of the topic. I can't say that I have owned a HeiZ , but after I have received this machine I have to admit that the HeiZ machine must have been REALLY impressive to compare the one I received. I have not owned both as you, but for sure, I'm really happy that you convinced me to go for the machine I have. Not to mention that the machine was considered earlier in my investigation, but then I was scared to go for it.

All day I have been working on the machine with leveling! This was a real pain in a certain place, but now it's as leveled as possible. Took me many hours, which most likely tells more about me than anything else. But lets say that I'm picky.

Even if the rails was clean and lubricated I cleaned them today and had a go with that hight tech stuff mentioned earlier. This was just the X and Z axis, the same procedure would be performed on the Y axis tomorrow.

Started to sort out the wire diagram for the machine (including the 4th axis) and would post a diagram later.

As Shannon mentioned, It's most likely better to start a new thread on my machine, even if I don't plan to make the same changes as he has performed.

All who is considering bying; Don't wonder, you would be a happy man as me :)

Regards
Kent

New thread started as Shannon recommended :)

K

Hi Fellas, I wrote a long post about this on friday, but when i hit the " submit reply" button it all went haywire.

We use Anglomoil products which were recommended by Jimmy007.

The grease is called Uniplex NLG1 - The blurb reads - Anglomoil Uniplex Grease represents state of the art grease technology. It is a high quality calcium sulphonate complex grease providing excellent performance over a wide range of operating temperatures and severe environmental conditions. Calcium Sulphonate greases possess an exceptionally high melting point of 300 degrees celsius, and together with high thermal stability can be used for long periods at 200 degrees celsius.

The oil is pro-lon Extreme Pressure Professional Spray Lubricant - The blurb - The ultimate choice in spray lubricants now containing the latest Enhanced Polymer Technology ( E.P.T ) with P.T.F.E.

We bought the grease in 450 gram cartridges and the oil in 400 gram pressure packs.

Website www.anglomoil.com.au (http://www.anglomoil.com.au)

I would think that similar products are available in the USA and New Zealand. The Australian suppliers are - Anglo Design Pty Ltd Ph (02) 9457 8566. They are located at Mt Kuringai ( near Sydney ). Note that although they were happy to supply the lubricants, they did not want to organise freight - so i organised it myself.

As i lost all of this info on friday when i tried to post it, i will stop at this point and go to part 2 in the next post - Just in case.

Rocket.

More greasing questions :

I have checked about the Anglo product and found a equivalent in SHELL SRS 4000. This is a read grease which looks the same as the one used on the cogwheels when the machine was delivered.

I guess this is the Anglo product : http://www.anglomoil.com.au/selected_product.php?product_id=38

However reading some feedback on this product I was not sure if this was something to use on the Hiwin "wagons".

The product info reads like this : High water resistant calsium reinforced lubrication based on a thick oil which helps against rust,wearing and oxidation. The grease has high "stickynes".
The SRS 4000 should be used for lubrication of heavy loaded mechanical parts, slow moving sliding and round ball-bearings. The high stickynes of the grease holds the grease in place under high pressure....

Due to the high stickynes of the grease it's not recommended to use on ball-bearings on cars and other highs speed moving bearings

How fast is fast or high speed? I guess the balls inside the linear motion "wagon" would spin with some speed?

Possible that I'm over concerned about this, but it would be nice to get it right from the start..

K

Hi Kent,

I followed your posted link and it says, for uses 'Use where loads, temperature and water contamination are severe. Use for wheel bearings, rolling contact bearings, ball joints, splines'...

Didn't see the wheel bearing comment- have to think car wheel bearings could travel a lot quicker than the linear control elements on our routers.

In any case I was recommended this product by one of the Amglomoil reps. He is a family friend and very talented metal machinist by trade who uses the products on his mills and other heavy equipment (some NC controlled).

Please advise if your research suggests it to be an inappropriate product.

Cheers,

Jimmy

More greasing questions :

I have checked about the Anglo product and found a equivalent in SHELL SRS 4000. This is a read grease which looks the same as the one used on the cogwheels when the machine was delivered.

I guess this is the Anglo product : http://www.anglomoil.com.au/selected_product.php?product_id=38

However reading some feedback on this product I was not sure if this was something to use on the Hiwin "wagons".

The product info reads like this : High water resistant calsium reinforced lubrication based on a thick oil which helps against rust,wearing and oxidation. The grease has high "stickynes".
The SRS 4000 should be used for lubrication of heavy loaded mechanical parts, slow moving sliding and round ball-bearings. The high stickynes of the grease holds the grease in place under high pressure....

Due to the high stickynes of the grease it's not recommended to use on ball-bearings on cars and other highs speed moving bearings

How fast is fast or high speed? I guess the balls inside the linear motion "wagon" would spin with some speed?

Possible that I'm over concerned about this, but it would be nice to get it right from the start..

K

Hi Jimmy.

Sorry for the possible misleading comment. My translation was from the tech sheet on Shell SRS 4000 which was in Swedish. This is what I referred to and looked to be pretty much the same as the one Rocket mentioned.

I have been reading the manual for the Hiwin linear system and they had some recommendations http://www.hiwin.com/catalogs/linear_guideway_G99TE10-0607.pdf

Page 9.

1-6-1
They do not mention to much about the viscosity of grease. For higher speeds, high-viscosity oil is recommended (for speeds > 60m/min).

1-6-2 Oil
Viscosity of the oil is recommended to be 32-150cStd.

You're grease (If I linked to the correct grease) has a viscosity of 9cStd/100`C. This would however never be a viscosity we would use, since our app is not running at 100´C. I have just been out in the shop, again, to get a grease which is 150cStd at 40´C.

The first one I bought - red looking - had a viscosity of 800/40`C but 66 when the temp was 100´C. I felt this was way to low viscosity so this is the reason for changing to the new one. This red looking is really sticky so I would use this one the cogwheel "tooth rail" and the new grease on the "wagon" part.

So if you could find you're viscosity at 40`C and check that this is not way out, you should be fine (as mentioned it's 9 @ 100`C). Hopefully you are not in the 800 range which may explain Rockets problem with the "sticky" axis. Having a grease in the 800 range would prevent the grease to slide to the lubrication areas and "refill" the spots, it would just sit there.

Sorry for the confusion, but I hope it helped.

I'm going for the lube scheme like this:

1:High tech PTFE lube on the Hiwin rails.
2:Red sticky grease on the "tooth" rail for the cogwheels.
3:Grease with viscosity in the 150-170 range @ 40´C for the grease nipples on the Hiwin "wagons". This was bought on a machine shop selling tractors and other farmers tools and is for sure not expensive or hight tech. Mine was clear and would not stain the rails.

K

I am wondering about using grease on the rack and pinion. I am thinking that the grease would attract a lot of dust and grit from the machining. Wouldn't it be better to use the PTFE spray? I ask this because the spray dries non sticky and would stop the dust sticking to the rails as much but also provides lubrication when dry.

Shannon.

I am wondering about using grease on the rack and pinion. I am thinking that the grease would attract a lot of dust and grit from the machining. Wouldn't it be better to use the PTFE spray? I ask this because the spray dries non sticky and would stop the dust sticking to the rails as much but also provides lubrication when dry.

Shannon.

I have found a spray type of lubrication for "heavy duty" lubrication. It's in the garage so I can't give you the name. However doing so might give it a little to skinny layer - but then I have not tried it.

I had a run today with the red sticky grease and it worked OK.

However, I'm now searching for some rubber sealing "thingys" which could expand and pull together. Don't know the name for it in English, but I think it would be a good investment.

I'll post when I have managed to check it up.

K

This is Greek for me. I have no clue on how to change the speed on the spindle and reading the manual has given me options on programming it and a lot of other info which has not balled me inn on the main task, changing the RPMs.

Is it just to change the Potentiometer for the Master frequency and off you go? I did not dear to play with any of the settings. I think some one mentioned it had some preprogrammed settings and also someone mentioned that there was almost endless RPM settings in the mills RPM range?

Any quick hints would be good.

K

However, I'm now searching for some rubber sealing "thingys" which could expand and pull together. Don't know the name for it in English, but I think it would be a good investment.

I'll post when I have managed to check it up.

K

I think the 'thingys' are called dust boots or dust covers, They can also be made out of canvas like on older machines.

The inverter manual has details on how to adjust the spindle rpm with the keypad. If yours has a potentiometer, then you should be fine to adjust it with that. The inverter controller has settings for the upper and lower frequency limits, these should already be set when the inverter was installed. Your spindle manual will state what the min and max frequencies should be set at.

Shannon.

we are gettin real close to 2000. i propose we post all new machines and where we are at now with our learning curve and realted work.

jim

Good one Jim.

Lots of photos - I will get the camera out.

Thanks for doing that plaque - it is a ripper.

Saw the photos of your new machine. Sure looks " Chunky ". It is going to be a ball-tearer. The spindle appears to have all the goodies on it too.

I feel a bit guilty about the learning curve because i do not even operate the machine, but Ramon is very good on it and has it all under control. We are going to the cnc convention/bbq on the 24th of this month and hope to learn a bit more about it.

You are very fortunate to have all of the support around you. I reckon you could just about make your own machine by now.

How long before your new machine makes it`s debut at the woodworking show?

Rocket.

is in atlanta in august and yes a lot of photos , i'd like to see some of your finished work!! jim

Jim;

I have been buzzing around my machine for to long now, trying to get everything sorted. In this process I got in to the thought of having some cool stuff to mill on some sines.
I remember you linked to some CDs which had many clip arts for engravers and sine makers. Could I please ask you if you could repeat this info?
Was this used directly in the Vectric SW packages?
Was this just 2D or was it similar to Vector Art 3D?

K

kent dover has clip art that can be vectorized for v carving. i have several of these books and cd's. ther are many and cost about 15.00 us each.

i also have vcarves library i bout on special at 99.00 but i believe it tis more now

here is dover

Amazon.com: 660 Typographic Ornaments CD-ROM and Book (Dover Electronic Clip Art): Dover: Books


and

http://store.doverpublications.com/


you can use vcarve to create vectors from these clip art .eps files,

v carve has proven to be a very good investment for me

jim

Thanks a bunch Jim.

I would for sure order some of these. Would these be similar to the Vector Art 3D as well or is it just 2D as I would expect?

K

all of these are 2d the 3d is still something i am still trying to master and will spend more time on it soon, but you can have some real fun and produce some great results with 2d and vcarving.

do you have vcarve pro, if so there is a thread on thier forum called free crv files!! a crv file is the file ext for vcarve pro

jim

Oki doki.

I guess it's the Vector art which does the 3D part then. The V carve has not been bought yet, but I'll get there.
Have you received the 4th axis machine now ?

K

machine is in progress!! went to fabricators two weeks ago. and yes vector art produces the .stl files for 3d work, i have tried some of this but have a long way to go jim

gotta go out for a while but i could make you a file later for running on your machine, what is the file ext for your controller

mine is .tap

if you could email me a small file i could read it to make sure it tis g code!!

Have one which has here birthday today so I have to socialize a little my self. "I'll be back" as the Governater says.

K

OK friends, is not much I participated in the forum, but thanks to their valuable comments some time ago I decided to buy one of these routers, and I hope to find the necessary help to develop work with this machine.
From Mexico will show some pictures from the new SHG1224, and in this regard them connected send more photos, any recommendation is welcome.
Greetings.

having the machine on the ground is a good feeling welcome jim

Balam, Congratulations mate - welcome to the wonderful world of Excitech cnc routers.

Great photos, that machine looks fantastic and i bet it will operate superbly.

we hope you will post regularly of your experiences with it.

Which software are you going to use? Most of the current users are having excellent results with V Carve Pro. This is low cost software and is easy to learn and use.

You know the old saying - CRANK IT UP SON!!

Rocket.

Thanks folks for the moment I'm looking for who can make the electrical connection, and I'm designing some parts for power levels, and also have some trouble finding both cleaners and oils for the machine any recommendations of international companies is welcome.
As far as I'm Industrial Designer i use software such as AutoCAD and SolidWorks , and to move the files to the machine glide first testing programs that come with the machine.
I hope it is connected next week, and I would put some photos.

This is the parts i design.

Jim,

If my memory serves me right, you use blind dado construction for your cabinets. My business partner and I are playing with AutoCabinets trying to build our library. We are wondering how you tackle the blind dado's or even the rabbits regarding the radius of the bit not making square cuts. I've attached a rough sketch of our typical construction. We would like to use dado's to index everything, good old glue and 18ga staples to hold it all together. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I've even read about guys cutting a mortis and tenon on their cnc to join the stretchers,nailers and bottom to the gable ends.

Thanks,

Spencer

we have used but joints with 2" augerhead cabinet screws for years finished ends are pocketscrewed or veneered depending on application. i do like the software you are using though i am waiting until IWF to buy any more software

jim

Jim,

Thanks for the quick reply. I think ramping the bit in and out of the dado on a 45 or 60 degree will work and eliminate the round corners. We then just have to angle notch out the stretchers and bottoms to fit into the slot. Hopefully that makes sense, can't think of any other way around it.

Spencer.

Hello! and sorry for the the question, but here in the part of Mexico i live can not find a good electrical technician to help me connect the router, they assert that as not have an L2 is a machine 110v but I know that is 220v i send a photo of the seam area, someone I could send a photo of their connection or explain how to make the connection?
Thank you very much.

is there anyone around the northern Ohio area that knows where I can get Trupan for my spoil board.

on the shopbot forum they hve been able to find trupan

jim

Hello! and sorry for the the question, but here in the part of Mexico i live can not find a good electrical technician to help me connect the router, they assert that as not have an L2 is a machine 110v but I know that is 220v i send a photo of the seam area, someone I could send a photo of their connection or explain how to make the connection?
Thank you very much.

Hi