I have a new harbor freight micro mill Sieg x1 is the model
everything works fine except that I need
to replace the drill chuck with a M2 collet
how do I get the chuck out, nothing seems to move
or unscrew, i have tried holding the chuck, using the
wrench on the drawbar at the top but can move anything
what am I missing in order to remove this chuck.

Removable drill chucks are held onto the arbors by only two methods. It is either threaded on or held by what's known as a Jacobs taper.

To remove the threaded versions, look inside for a binding screw. Remove this screw then place the chuck key in one of the holes in the periphery of the chuck and whack it with an abrupt blow from a soft hammer in the direction that will loosen a standard, right hand thread. Some will argue this method but it is effective. Ensure your quill is completely retracted when doing this.

If it is held on by a Jacobs taper, this will require small wedges to remove. They can be purchased from www.mscdirect.com. It is best to purchase two and use them together if clearance allows. If using two wedges, you can use a small C-clamp on the wedges to create the pressure required to break the taper.

Here are the wedges for a J-2 taper: http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1785468&PMT4NO=27404361

The method of retention will be noted on the chuck - a notation of 3/8-24 indicates the threaded retention method, a notation such as J-1 or 1JT or JT-1 indicates a Jacobs taper.

Scott

The chuck is probably on a Jacobs taper on the end of a M2 arbor. I think you need to get the M2 arbor out of the taper in the spindle not take the chuck off the Jacobs taper.

The arbor, like the M2 collets is held by a drawbar with a 3/8" fine thread and it can get cinched in really tight. Try this procedure:

Tighten the draw bolt gently so you know it is fully in the thread.

Now loosen it two revolutions. It is important to keep as much thread engaged as possible to reduce the change of damaging the thread.

Using a small hammer rap very sharply on the end of the drawbar. My experience is that a small hammer with a sharp rap works better than a big hammer with a heavy blow and cause less damage to the end of the drawbar.

If the arbor does not come free after a few good raps then it has been tightened way too much and you have a bit of a challenge ahead. Sometimes on these small machines the drawbar is so small in diameter that it just bounces and does not transmit the hammer impact down the the arbor.

Take the drawbar all the way out and see what is the largest size bar you can fit down the hole to come into contact with the end of the arbor.

If you can fit something a bit bigger than the drawbar make sure it has a nice flat end, put in down into contact with the arbor and give it a good rap. Sometimes if you lift it very slightly away from the arbor and then rap it you get a better transfer of impact...but don't smash your fingers!

If nothing has come loose you do have a challenge.:)

Now transfer your attention to the chuck, or more specifically the arbor just aboe the chuck. Can you get a flat piece of metal in there to use as a drift. What you are going to do is give some side impacts on the end of the arbor with a drift and some good hard raps. Then back to rapping the drawbar or bar down the spindle.

If after all this you still have not got it out report back.

I think you need to get the M2 arbor out of the taper in the spindle not take the chuck off the Jacobs taper.

:o

I misinterpreted his post.......

Scott

I can hold the spindle with the supplied tool, there is a wrench
that fits the drawbar nut that is accessed by removing the cap on
top of the spindle housing. but when I hold the spindle and try to turn
the drawbar it does not unlosen but maybe a fraction in either direction
I dont want to strip or twist anything off so I am being very carefull
I have looked at the parts drawing and it should just unscrew?

Yes the drawbar should unscrew.

It is possible that the slight movement you are seeing is clearance in the spline or keyway between the spindle and the drive pulley.

You have a tool to hold the spindle: Does this fit on the top of the spindle, the parts that goes down and up, or does it fit on something on the pulley?

If it holds the pulley it is almost certain you are seeing the clearance I mention.

While it is not impossible to break things it does require a bit of force so don't go using 3 feet long breaker bars for loosening the drawbar.

The best way is to try and wedge something on the spindle tool to stop the spindle rotating while you use two hands on a wrench on the draw bar. You can expect that loosening the drawbar will take a good pull but it should be possible with a wrench no longer than 10 inches or so.

If you cannot wedge the spindle tool and have to use one hand on that and the other on the drawbar wrench position your self so the two are on the same side of the machine and you are pulling on one and pushing on the other. This way you are better balanced.

If you position your self so you are pulling on both when they come loose quickly you fall over backwards and crack your skull or the wrenches slip off and you hit yourself in the face. If you push when things come loose or slip you fall forward and mash your face into the pulley.

I got the drawbar out ok, now I have to get the chuck arbor out
I think I can just put a larger than the drawbar down the spindle
and tap on it and it should come out
the draw bar was just overly tight
the chuck is labeled 3/8 J2
where is the best place to get M2 tapered collets for this application
I dont need but about 4 of different sizes

I got the drawbar out ok, now I have to get the chuck arbor out
I think I can just put a larger than the drawbar down the spindle
and tap on it and it should come out
the draw bar was just overly tight
the chuck is labeled 3/8 J2
where is the best place to get M2 tapered collets for this application
I dont need but about 4 of different sizes

I had a lot of trouble getting the drill chuck out when my X-1 was new as well. As someone said earlier, you need to screw the drawbar back in most of the way and then hit it, not tap it, but hit it, with a hammer to knock the JT2 arbor with the chuck on out.

As your mill is new, I'd suggest squirting a generous amount of WD40 down the top of the spindle before screwing the drawbar back in. If it doesn't come lose immediately, add more WD40 and leave it overnight and try again. Worked for me...

Also, once you do get it out, I'd advise removing it at the end of every milling session - it can tend to bind if left in place, but this becomes less of a problem as time goes on.

Cheers.

Just purchased the HF X1 to help fitting frames, slides and barrels which the most I would be removing would be .010 in at least 3 passes (.004, .004 and .002) so it should work fine for me.....BUT I had this SAME EXACT question on how to get the chuck off to re-install the end mill holder and followed the recommendation to back out the spindle and tap couple times and it worked to perfection, chuck dropped right off!!!

Cool Forum it is 1 for 1!!

Thanks for the help
Randal