If anyone out there has a laser running on NewlyDraw perhaps we can share experiences and questions. I am slowly figuring out how to use parts of the program but there are areas that stay greyed out that seem like they should work. I have only done some simple engraving and tried cutting thin wood but I am still not sure what I am doing. First wood piece I cut was 1/8" basswood and I set the beam close to the bottom of the wood (was later told this was wrong - set to top surface and adjust speed and power). The little circle I cut out was very nice though. I next tried to cut some other little pieces from same size basswood and it didn't cut all the way through so I set the power higher and tried other wood (didn't realize it was a bit thicker) and it only cut half way through. I know this is just a matter of settings but not sure just what adjustments to make.

Perhaps others can share and we can learn together.

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos, gsolfot
Rabbit HX3040

Hi Jacqui, post some photos of the software screen and mark the icons you want to know what are for, maybe i could tell .
Luis

Hi Jacqui, post some photos of the software screen and mark the icons you want to know what are for, maybe i could tell .
Luis

Luis - I have not been able to get a good photo because of the contrast - just not clear enough. I can figure out the icons and I have since yesterday found out where some screens were that I couldn't access before. I am still not totally clear on using this program but am able to do quite a bit with it anyway. Now I shall just continue to experiment with different settings and materials and will keep a notebook with what I did and the settings I used - I am sure I will become an expert LOL!

Jacqui, try this: get a piece of 15mm MDF set the power at 90% ( try not to use the 100% power , that will be more life for the laser tube..) then set different speeds to cut 10, 20 and so on , you can see the deep of the cut , this way you can choose the speed depending on the thickness of the material, make the same test wit all the materials you are going to work
And , Yes thats the only way to become an expert. !!
Luis

Thank you for that little test idea. It is somewhat like I have been doing but I have been reluctant to crank up the power that far because I didn't think it was safe but I do have a "panic" button on the panel and that will stop everything. Also hitting the red laser button turns off the beam and I have had to do that a couple of times when the machine didn't do what I planned. I have started a notebook and have also been playing with learning the program. Biggest problem was that the graphics did not insert themselves into my first trial at saving them and I spent a good deal of time today getting a working set of instructions to my laptop in the form of a PDF with all the graphics. It now makes a lot more sense and I might be able to figure how to actually draw simple forms within the program! But it is much easier to just import.

If anyone else reads the instructions in NewlyDraw I can add that the files supported also include PNG which is portable network graphics and is very useful. In fact DXF did work but not nearly as well and I am much more comfortable doing graphics with Illustrator.

One other question and that is about raster vs. vector. I believe Photoshop is raster and Illustrator is vector? Is this correct? One is better for cutting and the other for engraving? I have tried to follow some of those threads but at the moment my brain is a bit soggy! Hilo rain and all! LOL

I am very sad that I will have to leave my new baby home while I travel for a month! It is quite addicting!

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaosl, gsolfot

Jacqui, I dont know that Newly draw software you are working on, but for me the best to cut is corel 12, Try not to convert files from ilustrator to corel, some times the machine stops or get confused with that. I also use to raster from corel saving as .AI .
Isn't it sad that you cant put the machine in your car , so you could play with it while traveling?
Luis

Luis - NewlyDraw came with the laser and is a program written in China. It is the interface with the laser machine but it works very well with Adobe files. I don't have Corel and am used to working in Illustrator. I would have to take the machine on the plane across the ocean and across country and it is only slightly overweight for the baggage allowance. I will surely miss my new baby!

BTW I posted some photos in a different thread but here is the URL here as well - http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/4447/cat/500/ppuser/64583

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos, gsolfot

Hi Jacqui,
Is there any help file or PDF with the software? if yes, attach it then I can give you some help

also is there any web sight for the software?

Osama

I have a pdf file for NewlyDraw and yesterday I clicked on every button I could and tried out every setting I could with the result that I learned a lot and there is still a lot that isn't covered in the instructions that came with the program but I posted the URL for the photos I took of yesterday's efforts and will repeat it here:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=oubq2kj.6weqn43j&x=1&y=hbvk4c

I am finding this little machine truly amazing! Hope I can still feel this way 3-4 months from now!

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos, gsolfot

I can't seem to copy the NewlyDraw program to a PDF file to post here. I tried to set up the program to cut and engrave in the same set (engrave words first, then cut around the piece) Whenever I go to the cut part it changes the position of the laser head and it doesn't cut where I expect it to. And I understand Frank has left for his vacation to cHina already! Now I am just hoping to find someone who has used this program and knows what to do. I revised the laser manual for Frank and hope to do the NewlyDraw manual once I figure it all out!

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos,GSOLFOT
(who was well shaken yesterday and now awaits the rain from the edge of the hurricane!)

Can you run the program as demo without the dongle, if it runs you can Zip it(right click on the setup folder then select send to compressed zipped folder) and attach it here

I will have to try and see if it can be zipped on the PC and then transferred to my Mac to send. I try not to connect the PC to the internet and don't have a good mail program associated with it. I am not sure what has happened but neither of 2 printers or scanners is working on my Mac at the moment and I haven't had time to trouble shoot why. It is surely a pain in the rear end!
Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos, GSOLFOT

Hi,
Now I get your software manual, I can see some of its screens, I think you can apply deferent modes to your shapes (Cutting and engraving), select and send all the shapes and change the engraving and cutting parameters from the machine properties.
Q. Did the machine return to home or job 0,0 after engraving or stops at last position?

I thought I had done that but I have no idea how to set multiple parameters. It seemed the machine returned to "home" but when starting the cut it moved way off the position of the engraving. I have no idea at all of what many of those settings do or how to calibrate the start position to the same spot each time. The head always returns to a position at the back of the machine and off the engraving field. If I want to start an engraving at a particular point on my material I am not able to do it except by trial and error.

And most important, If I want to stop the engraving because it is not at the right point "stop" doesn't do anything and the only way I can cancel is to either let the machine run with the laser beam off, or hit the emergency stop button which doesn't seem to be a good idea.

I'm afraid I have very many questions about all of the settings because the software details don't cover them.

I will truly appreciate any help you can give me - probably best to work on one setting at a time! LOL

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos, GSOLFOT

I am currently trying to work out settings that I can repeat with the Newly Draw software. I check things out by starting the engrave head without the laser until I see that it is placing itself correctly. Problem is that when it is wrong I have found no way to cancel or discontinue the movement. Cancel in the program doesn't turn it off, and the panic button turns it off, but when it is turned on the head continues its movement.

Because it often starts over the metal framework I don't want to start engraving until I know it is lined up properly. I am hoping someone here who uses this particular software can provide an answer.

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos, GSOLFOT

Hi Goddess,
Do a search for MWSnap3. It is a small program for capturing screen shots of anything that is displayed on the screen and is very powerful and very easy to use. You can capture the whole desktop, a window, a toolbar, a dropdown menu, etc. It may help you to show people what you are doing.
I have used it before when I had setup problems with LinkMotion and because of the pictures the creators of the program were able to show me that there wasn't any problem with the software but it was a hardware fault.
Try it, you will like it.
Regards Richard.

I can actually do screen shots on my Mac and I have the NewlyDraw program on my Mac as well since I hope to eventually add more instructions once I learn how to bend it to my will! I may have come up with a work around for getting the machine to start where I expect it to start. I should be able to do it with the program and I know it can be done, I just haven't quite worked it out yet and I have been flitting back and forth between Hawaii and the mainland (too much!) so haven't had much play time! I spent the past couple of days installing an exhaust fan in the window next to my laser and cutting a vent hole in the wall so the laser should be properly vented. I wanted to do that before doing any heavy duty cutting. Seems to be working decently but acrylic will be the telling point. And I am off again Thursday so again there will be no follow up! Once I am home I should have clear sailing though!

I have so much appreciated this forum and how helpful everyone has been!

Jacqui, Goddess of Chaos, GSOLFOT

Hi Jacqui,
There is another way that you can use
1- Power up the machine then the head will return to its home position (assume that it is on top left).
2-try to measure the distance between the home position and the table effective X & Y position that you can put the material on it and you can start engraving or cutting on it
3- when you prepare your design just draw a rectangle with that X & Y measurements and put it in the top left of your design then put your design at the bottom right corner of that rectangle.
4- open the design in the machine software then select your design and give it the parameters for cutting or engraving then send it, it should be in place with that offset of the X & Y

Hi,
You can see the attached drawing I hope it can help, also if the software change the offset when you dos not select the offset rectangle, you may replace that rectangle with small two dots one at the top left corner and the other in the bottom right corner and give it some effect (engrave) and send it with your design just to keep the correct offset.

Hi, I'm a teacher, my school has just purchased a HX3040, that runs the newlydraw program. We are having so me issues, can someone help.

The situation:

We start newlydraw no worries, we import a dxf and set up the parameters, when we test run, the preview shows the cuts from inside to out that the laser should follow. But when we hit the Engrave button nothing happens.

As far as laser firing goes, we can test fire, we can burn the border / outline of the object (a rectangle). The head moves to where ever we manually tell it to move. It simply will not burn the dxf shape.

Anyone got any ideas to get it going. May be someone could provide a screen capture of parameters they use and a newlydraw file that they know works fine for us to give a try.

When this works its going to be awesome - but right now its being a pain in the butt.

Heeyyyyy gais I need your help, I have and engraver like your but I need the pawer coord and I dont now where to finde.

Which power cord do you need Ive got several as we keep the 3040 in stock in the u.k you just need a standard one that goes into a computer...

Hi,
we have 3040s so we know what to do ???
try to draw a circle in the newlydraw select cut or engrave (bottom lhs) then select file and engrave.then look in options you should be able to select the power (60% then speed of 15 to cut 3mm )
check the switch inside the laser bottom rhs near the control board is set to automatic.
If this works it could be a problem with your file.
Thanks Chris

Hi, I'm a teacher, my school has just purchased a HX3040, that runs the newlydraw program. We are having so me issues, can someone help.

The situation:

We start newlydraw no worries, we import a dxf and set up the parameters, when we test run, the preview shows the cuts from inside to out that the laser should follow. But when we hit the Engrave button nothing happens.

As far as laser firing goes, we can test fire, we can burn the border / outline of the object (a rectangle). The head moves to where ever we manually tell it to move. It simply will not burn the dxf shape.

Anyone got any ideas to get it going. May be someone could provide a screen capture of parameters they use and a newlydraw file that they know works fine for us to give a try.

When this works its going to be awesome - but right now its being a pain in the butt.
Hi,
we have 3040s so we know what to do ???
try to draw a circle in the newlydraw select cut or engrave (bottom lhs) then select file and engrave.then look in options you should be able to select the power (60% then speed of 15 to cut 3mm )
check the switch inside the laser bottom rhs near the control board is set to automatic.
If this works it could be a problem with your file.
Thanks Chris

hi there,
l am a laser engraver virgin, l recently bought the rabbit40, l also have photograv.
firstly could some one please help me by giving me step by step instructions on how to engrave with newly draw, making it as simple as possible because l seem to be making a pigs ear of my own efforts.
secondly, could someone give me step by step instructions on how to engrave with photograv.
l truly hope that l am not asking to much and that someone can help me.

finally, if there is anyone in the east anglia region of the u.k. who could help me l would be eternally gratefull.

thank you johnray

HI,
could anyone tell me how to get my rabbit40 laser cutter to engrave the same size entered on my newlydraw screen.

thanks, john

John,
How much different is the output compared to the screen?

If it is just a minor adjustment you can change the dpi settings in NewlyDraw to correct it.

These dpi settings are for the leadscrews on the machine, and nothing to do with the image dpi.

Zax.

hi,
thanks for the reply, the image is about a third of its intended size and seems slightly distorted, l dont know whether the two are connected.

john

Sounds like something more is wrong. What speed are you running, perhaps it's losing steps - that would account for the size and distortion.

Try a scan speed of 10 and line gap of 0.1 to see if it corrects the problem.

Zax.

Does anybody know, how can i buy newly draw program? I lost a program for my laser system and now can not found this one. A week ago I wrote for sale support (0123.com.cn) but they don't answer me. May be it has another way to buy it?

hi,
l,ve got a spare one l think

john

hi zax,

thanks for your time, no l've tried that and it is still the same

john

Hey guys, I just bought a HX 3040 that works with newlydraw but when I try to press many of the buttom inside the engrave browser, including start engrave it shows me an link error:2 message.

Do anyone knows why??

Hey guys, I just bought a HX 3040 that works with newlydraw but when I try to press many of the buttom inside the engrave browser, including start engrave it shows me an link error:2 message.

Do anyone knows why??

Within the engraving pop up window there is the option to select the type of machine. I have a 3040 model, but it only cuts when I tell Newlydraw that its a 40b (Or maybe an 'a') I'm not looking at the software right now, so can't be too specific.

Hope this helps.

Kris

I have a Shenhui Laser DC-G350B. The software that came with it is Newly Seal 11 and it does not have vector cut. Does anyone know if I purchase NewlyDraw if the machine will vector cut.
At the moment I can engrave and can only cut square or circule.

Thanks alot.

If this laser came with a Controller software "plugin" for Corel like many other lasers,then the Chinese manufacturer would see a big increase in their profits. How hard can that be?

If the resellers pushed for this change then these little machines would be flying out the door.

If this laser came with a Controller software "plugin" for Corel like many other lasers,then the Chinese manufacturer would see a big increase in their profits. How hard can that be?

If the resellers pushed for this change then these little machines would be flying out the door.

Most of the Chinese systems do come with a Corel driver, some brands only have it on the mid to high end and others have it across the board.

The cheaper engraving systems usually come with dedicated software.

Zax.

Hey guys, I just bought a HX 3040 that works with newlydraw but when I try to press many of the buttom inside the engrave browser, including start engrave it shows me an link error:2 message.

Do anyone knows why??

I have the same machine and had the same problem when I was trying to run the engraver through a usb to parallel cable. When I connected it using the serial cable provided it worked fine.

So i guess it means your pc is not communicating with the machine. Have you tried a different parallel cable? Or a different machine?

I have a Shenhui Laser DC-G350B. The software that came with it is Newly Seal 11 and it does not have vector cut. Does anyone know if I purchase NewlyDraw if the machine will vector cut.
At the moment I can engrave and can only cut square or circule.

Thanks alot.

NewlyDraw with my rabbit 3040 can 'scan' (which is like a printer) and can cut vector lines too using 'cut'. Though I would far from recommend buying NewlyDraw its still pretty painful to use.

When I import files from autocad in to newly draw does anyone know if i can change intervidual lines on the autocad work so I can e.g cut some and scan others.

What i am trying to do at the moment it make things out of cardboard. So would like some lines to be engraved (so i can bend them along the engraved line) and then cut round the outside of card board net. To do this at the moment I make two files in autocad and import them seperately and hope I get them in the right place. Does anyone have a better method or can give me some pointers on how use the layers in newly draw?

Magritte, it depends on how the artwork is created but yes it is possible to select some elements to be raster (scan) and others for vector (cut).

When you import the file, everything is grouped. Click on 'split' and it will ungroup all the elements so you can select them individually.

You can also use the layers in Newlydraw to make everything align correctly, this is useful if you want to use different laser power or speed for different elements of the design. If not, when you send the file to the laser it moves the origin and the elements don't align.

Zax.

thanks zax15uk thats a great help.

Hello, I bought a laser cutter engraver on ebay. I receievd a cd with software and usb key, I installled the software and it's newlyseal 11. I tried it but i can find how make acrylic shape with laser cutter.
I don't know if newlysoft and newlydraw is the same software (on the cd I received it show newlysoft and newlydram but when installe i have only newlyseal. I find newlydraw on web and download it but teh softwaer is in chiness and indicate i don't have usb key to open it. any body can help me?
can i control this machine with other software? can I by newlydraw?
i bought dc-k40iii
Thanks

I don't know if newlysoft and newlydraw is the same software

Newlyseal is designed for making rubber stamps and does not have all the features of Newlydraw. It may be capable of some basic cutting but you really need to obtain Newlydraw.

I believe the dongle "key" is different so you probably need to arrange an exchange with the vendor.

Zax.

Hello, where I can get newlydraw? the vendor don't answer me. I don't find newlydraw vendor.

Newlydraw is produced by 0123, the same company as Newlyseal but the problem is each dongle and version is specific to the driver card.

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=zh-CN&u=http://www.0123.com.cn/

I suggest contacting the manufacturer of your unit, which I believe might be Qingdao Digital?

http://qdmagnetic.en.china.cn/

If you don't have any success there are 2 options. Purchase a new driver card and software from another vendor (Rabbit, WK or Artsign for example) or convert to a generic driver board and use Mach3 or something similar to drive it (would be my choice).

Zax.

I'm looking for a new driver board and software for my HX40A laser.
Is it possible to engrave and cut with mach3? of is there better software for engraving?

I've found these boards: http://www.routoutcnc.com/lpkits.html they seem like a good deal.

With kind regards

Frans Kampkes // The Netherlands

Hi, seller says my laser is not compatible with newlydraw just newlyseal and 0123.com.cn sasy it's compatible. can you comfrim my machine is compatible before i bought newlydraw?
Thanks

I'm looking for a new driver board and software for my HX40A laser.

Frans, yes you can use Mach3 but will have to install a step and direction stepper driver board.

http://www.routoutcnc.com/lpkits.html

http://www.routoutcnc.co.uk/Forum/index.php?topic=17.0

I was planning to do this but once I got familiar with Newlydraw I decided it wasn't as bad as people were saying so stuck with it. If my driver board or dongle ever dies then I will go this route too.

Zax.

Hi, seller says my laser is not compatible with newlydraw just newlyseal and 0123.com.cn sasy it's compatible. can you comfrim my machine is compatible before i bought newlydraw?
Thanks

If you purchase a new dongle and software from 0123 it will work, but that doesn't mean it will 'talk' to your particular machine. You'll need a machine specific driver for that which may not be available based on the input from the seller.

You could get lucky and find a driver that works, but it would be a gamble.

Did you have any luck with the manufacturer, they would really be the best source for a solution.

The only other 'fix' is to replace the driver board with a generic and use Mach3 or emc etc.

Zax.

Gentlemen,

I, too, am using Newlydraw1 on an Artsign JSM 3040U 50 watt laser. I'm starting to understand it, but having a problem:

The laser dot on the work seems to be somewhere in the lower left of the frame around the work I have created in Newlydraw1. Does anyone know how to find out exactly where this laser dot location is in relationship to the on-screen frame? Is there way to adjust the reference location? I've searched all the toolbars until my eyes are tearing and maybe missed something.

Also, has anyone replaced their board/software (Newlydraw1) on one of these lasers with any luck?

Thanks!
Firejoe911

The reference point (frame) is always the extents of the design, what I usually do is add my own reference frame and set it on the 'do not cut' layer. That way you can control where the reference point is in relation to the design. This is the same technique you would use to engrave and cut out while keeping everything in alignment.

Hope that makes sense.

Zax.

Zax,

Yeah, that makes sense. I'll just have to practice with it.

Last night I made a large design and engraved it, then wanted to add some names inside of it. When I went to cut the names the laser started cutting the names at the x,y point and not where I put the names. I guess I should have done everything at once and "combined" all the elements. But the point is that I would like to add something to a design that's already engraved and know where it will start engraving.

Thanks
Firejoe

Can always push the 'test button' for reference.
Actually its a pain, because sometimes with acrylic it won't cut all the way through, but as with any material, once you've checked, you will loose the alignment.

Best to do a small test shape on the material before you cut out whole sheets, otherwise all your material will end up in the bin.

Thanks for the hints.

I have a lazer dot that shows where the actual laser will fire, but the laser dot is not at the actual start of the work. It's more like it's at the lower left corner of the "frame" that is around the work on the computer screen, where you can grab the nodes to change the size of the work. But it's not exactly at that spot. I wish I could change it to the center of the work or something.

Firejoe

I've not got the red dot positioner, basically its really annoying. Keep trying if I were you and keep coming up with ideas to get it right.

I just wanted to ask a few questions concerning the advantages of other software i.e coreldraw and photograv. The newlydraw tend to do wood engraving in one shade, i.e. its very heavy handed. Can the other softwares help with this. Do you have to do separate layers and vary the laser strength?
Often importing .dxf files they are scaled down in size. Is the only accurate way to use autocad and skip newlydraw? One idea i have is to actually do a cutout and then match the thickness of the material to the required size. E.g 3d models. Obviously you can try to scale up to get the correct thickness of cutout. Even cutout a shape at a time until they fit the desired material.
This software is really so close and yet so far with some of these things. Its infuriating in some regards to know the accuracy is there in the newlydraw but translating it from elsewhere is an absolute nightmare, and you are left wondering.

I sell a Mach3 upgrade for Newlydraw lasers that will give you a lot better options. Check it out at http://www.fullspectrumengineering.com/co2laser.html

PWM power control is what you want.

For test prints, just turn down the power super low and print on thermal paper. It just turns black and nothing gets burned. That's the best and easiest way I have found.

My laser focus lens is held in by a thumb screw. I thought about putting a laser pointer inside but it's more hassle than it's worth.

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