View Full Version : Making PCB with laser (no chemical etch)


RoboticsMD
07-29-2007, 12:48 AM
I have seen some discussion online regarding making PCB directly with CO2 laser by eliminating unwanted copper with laser and leaving copper traces.

Is this a possible scenario? I heard so many different opinions that I am truly confused and want to hear from experienced members here.

Besides CO2 laser (just ordered),
my lab does have a Xenon-Phosphorus-Neon gas laser that cuts thin copper like butter....I think this would work for making PCB directly, but I don't have experience with CO2 laser.

Any help appreciated.

bigbunny5
07-29-2007, 02:39 AM
I know this one will (http://www.signwarehouse.com/engravers/pinnacle_accuris.htm)I've seen it done. the problem is it takes experance and a learning curve to get it right!

bkinman
01-24-2008, 06:14 PM
I am going to paint some black paint on some FR4 to be used as acid resist, and then i'm going to etch away the un-needed paint.... Wanna see some pics of the results? You guys ever try this method?

RoboticsMD
01-26-2008, 03:44 PM
If you get a good result trying black paint, could you please share your result pics?

I have seen this method discussed in this forum somewhere.

RoboticsMD
01-26-2008, 03:46 PM
I know this one will (http://www.signwarehouse.com/engravers/pinnacle_accuris.htm)I've seen it done. the problem is it takes experance and a learning curve to get it right!

My lab has a Versalaser.

Do you know where I can see some result or techniques of direct laser PCB etching?

RogerTango
11-01-2008, 07:30 PM
I am going to paint some black paint on some FR4 to be used as acid resist, and then i'm going to etch away the un-needed paint.... Wanna see some pics of the results? You guys ever try this method?

I did last night, it works great. A lighter weight copper board will prevent undercut. The etch I did looks pretty impressive. I put Scotch tape across a board, two light coats of Duplicolor flat black allowed to dry in between, then etched. The black paint came off easy with acetone.

Ill post pix later.

Now, I am trying to figure out HOW to remove the black paint, been thinking laser but its starting to sound cost prohibitive.

I got my power supply yesterday, have a controller board on order, and the concept for the mill in my head.

Cheers-
Andrew

RogerTango
11-02-2008, 04:02 PM
Here is the test results of using paint to resist etch. Worked out great! Now, to figure out if an inexpensive laser would work to burn away the black paint... or what other method would be used?

Here are the pictures as promised:

http://rogertango.com/images/paintedpcb-000.jpg



http://rogertango.com/images/paintedpcb-001.jpg



http://rogertango.com/images/paintedpcb-003.jpg



http://rogertango.com/images/paintedpcb-004.jpg



http://rogertango.com/images/paintedpcb-005.jpg



HTH-
Andrew

bkinman
11-05-2008, 01:29 PM
Here is a picture of my results (after etching) and a video of the process.

I used rubbing alcohol to remove the paint that re-deposited back onto the surface of the copper. This actually seems to be quite a problem. If I do not use the proper speed and power settings (perhaps 20 speed and 60 power?), then I get bad results due to the paint I am not trying to ablate burning, or the paint that I am ablating sticking back to the the surface of the copper.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3036/3005253315_ff449e7bf3.jpg?v=0

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/NYT4zVBkxEE"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/NYT4zVBkxEE" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

happytriger2000
12-12-2008, 12:28 PM
Here is a picture of my results (after etching) and a video of the process.

I used rubbing alcohol to remove the paint that re-deposited back onto the surface of the copper. This actually seems to be quite a problem. If I do not use the proper speed and power settings (perhaps 20 speed and 60 power?), then I get bad results due to the paint I am not trying to ablate burning, or the paint that I am ablating sticking back to the the surface of the copper.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3036/3005253315_ff449e7bf3.jpg?v=0

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/NYT4zVBkxEE"> </param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/NYT4zVBkxEE" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed> </object>

Hi Bkinman,
I'm going to buy a Laser Engraving machine sometime soon, and I'll be usining it for PCB route engraving, May I know which brand of Laser Machine do you have and where did you buy it from?

Thanks,

Freddy

bkinman
12-18-2008, 03:03 AM
It is a Laserpro Explorer II. I do not own this one, it belongs to the University of California, Santa Cruz.

miljnor
12-19-2008, 11:47 AM
I thought (by the title of the thread) that you were looking for a NON-etch laser process?

bkinman
12-21-2008, 12:37 AM
I'm not sure that you CAN do it by just etching off the copper. The fiberglass underneath would not take well to that at all.

LaserImage
12-21-2008, 12:16 PM
I used rubbing alcohol to remove the paint that re-deposited back onto the surface of the copper. This actually seems to be quite a problem. If I do not use the proper speed and power settings (perhaps 20 speed and 60 power?), then I get bad results due to the paint I am not trying to ablate burning, or the paint that I am ablating sticking back to the the surface of the copper.

Try changing to burn from the bottom up instead of the top down. I have the exact same laser and have used that setting many times when I want to eliminate, or reduce, soot or other problems.

Gary