Ok, I have the KDN Tool CNC Kit, precision rolled screws, preloaded nuts, ect. ect. I have pulled the internal gears out of the head (belt drive) and stripped off all the extra parts that won't be needed. The Base has been filled with cement and lead shot, nice and heavy now. I also filled the lower section of the column with cement and lead shot. I will be filling the remaining column with lead shot without cement to dampen any vibrations. I have Brass Gibs ready to go as well.

In pre-assembly the Y-Axis is tight at the bearing end and smooth from about 2" inches back to where the colomn mounts.

The z-Axis is only tight at the last 2" at the top of it.

X-Axis I havn't done yet.

Outside of taking the whole thing down to the local grinder, is there a way to make sure everything slides nice and smooth?

For the z-axis the Spindle housing and dovetail housing bolt from the backside and will not be accessable after re-assembly.

I believe that the Spindle, dovetail and Column need to be in the same plane; or does it matter because you can adjust the Column angle?

Thanks

Smitty

Lapping the dovetails yourself can really help alot.
I used 320 grit, it's coarse enough to get it done fairly quickly.
Mscdirect (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000021547221#NOANCHOR) carries it as well as others. you don't need much more than a few ounces to do all three.
they sell 16 oz for about $25, more than you'll ever need though.
I'd lay the column on the bench to make it easier.
loosen the gibs up a wee bit, smear some paste on and push the head/saddle back and forth till it doesn't feel like it's binding any more.
turn the gib screws a tiny bit and repeat.
when it feels smooth the entire length and you can't wiggle the head or saddle at all, disassemble and give it a good cleaning.
lube up, reassemble and it should be good to go.
You could get 600 grit too if you want it extra smooth but it's cast iron not steel
so it's only going to get so smooth.

The spindle and column in theory should be in the same plane.
The column should be exactly 90 degrees to the table.
They didn't use pins in the spindle head, so there is some give with the bolts.
I would imagine(hope) the chinese had a fixture to keep everything nice and true when they bolted it all together but who knows.
it's mute anyhow when we take them apart.
One possible solution would be to snug the bolts but not too tight, reassemble and mount the head, indicate the column square with the table ( need a tall 90 degree block)
then tram the head by tapping the head with a soft mallet. expose the bolts in the back of the head and tighten them up.
Sounds like too much work for me though.
I'd just tighten them up and live with the possibility of the head being a degree or so off from the column.
Or you could make a rotating/tilt head attachment;)
Hope this helps Hoss

I believe that the Spindle, dovetail and Column need to be in the same plane; or does it matter because you can adjust the Column angle?

Thanks

Smitty

Yes it matters. And you can only adjust side to side (x axis perpendicularity) with the column angle bolt.

Otherwise, you have to add shims somewhere.

It is a pain, but it can be done.

You will need a right angle (a solid 123 block is good), and a test indicator to check both the column (by moving the head up and down with the test indicator against the 123 block) and head (by spinning the spindle with the test indicator on it, sweeping the table.)

If you are within in .002" or so over 6", I'd just let it be.

If you find it out of line, you can do the math to figure out what size shim to put where. I used automotive feeler gauges as shims.

-Jeff

The four bolts that hold the spindle to the dovetail block has some play in it. I haven't measured it yet but is noticable to the eye. Once it is mounted back on the column there is NO access to those four bolts with out removing the whole darn thing again. Is this the price one pays? LOL

Would it be best to take the column and lay it on it's side and get it parallel to the dovetails parallel than center the spindle box down the centerline, tighten the hang out of the four bolts?

I would take a piece of ground steel and put it in a collet to read the spindle angle.

What a minute that will only tell you left to right not front to back. So I guess laying it on it's back and repeating it would take care of that by shimming the spindle box or by shimming the column.

AArrrrggghhhh the question.

Smitty

Yeah that would work quite nicely.
Wish I could take mine to work and use their granite surface plate and height gage with test indicator.
Could always buy a surface plate (http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/38972/nm/Crystal_Pink_Granite_Surface_Plates) and height gage (http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/17186/nm/Digital_Height_Gage_with_Absolute_Encoder) at wholesaletool. Only about $900.
I'd make sure the head is true left to right with the column like you said as well as front to back.
1 degree off in 8 inches of Z travel = .140 at the table in the x axis.
didn't realize it could be that much.
guess what i learned in trig class in HS did get used later in life.
who knew.

At least you had some trig to work from. LOL

I was just thinking out loud. I will take the whole thing down to the machine shop and work on that alignment. Once that is done it should be quickly trammed in. I hope

John