Long story short, Spindle wouldnt work called Syil sent me new boards except one in the back cover and new spindle motor. Installed everything still does not work? :withstupi WTF! Anyone experience anything like this or am I a doffus? thanks in advance Brian

if everything is free, sounds like wiring issues. (or possibly motor)

Does your front control panel respond the way you expect?

My spindle would not start either - switching on the machine would illuminate the front panel display - but the start button on the front panel would not do anything - in manual or CNC mode.

Thankfully Richard (of Syil America) was visiting the UK (checking out the UK franchaise) shortly after I purchased my machine and was able to fix it on site. There are some spacing screws behind the front panel that needed adjusting to ensure the buttons will make contact.

Not sure what I would have done if Richard wasn't here - if this sounds like your problem then contact him for the details.

regards,
Kevin.

Long story short, Spindle wouldnt work called Syil sent me new boards except one in the back cover and new spindle motor. Installed everything still does not work? :withstupi WTF! Anyone experience anything like this or am I a doffus? thanks in advance Brian


is it new edtion of sieg control board? or old edition?
China.Syil

I experienced the same problem again intermittently after Richard's adjustment, and finally disassembled the front panel myself.

What I found was that the digital height gauge bar (see arrowed attached pic) which has a black matte front is bare alumunium at the back.

This bare aluminium back faces directly onto exposed soldering pins on the control circuit board which I believes allows the possibility for short circuiting the controls, causing unpredictable behaviour.

I put electrical insulation tape over the exposed pins (see attached pic) where they might come in contact with the bare aluminium back of the gauge bar and re-assembled and now my spindle starts every time (so far).

Of course it could also be that it works now because I ended up fiddling with the spacing pins again... whatever, Syil, you need to test your machines before you ship them, I don't think anyone will object if you add a little to the cost - especially if you advertise the fact that the machine has been factory tested.

Otherwise I am very happy with my machine so far.

regards,
Kevin.

this is a design fault by sieg X3, the ruler very easliy to touch the electonic board.we still not receive sieg regards this problem issue explain.
we suggest them adjust casting of mould to increase space.or reduce ruler size..
but frankly to say we not suggest customers use this rulers.not precision
we are carry carefully inspection after syil america visit.in next shipment,and future machines we will have more ducoments and CDs regards muanul and quickly problem answers.

Syil china.

Thanks Kevin.

This would explain the large number of failures that I have personally seen where the keypad front panel board suffers a catestrophic failure near one of the optocouplers. I have seen 3 so far which I couldn't see a reason for the failure. When this failure occurs it also destroys the 7806 voltage regulator on the main spindle board and also the electronic feedback/positional sensor on the spindle motor itself rendering the motor useless.

By sheer luck my Syil X3 has not suffered from this problem yet and I will be checking ASAP the clearance between the rule and keypad (front panel) board. If I cannot see an easy way to increase the clearance to prevent shorting, I will remove the rule totally from the machine. I don't use the digital readout anyway as I use my machine exclusively as a CNC machine always under computer control so I know where the Z axis is at all times.

My machine did suffer a main spindle motor driver board failure after less than 1 hour from new which I was able to repair myself. My spindle drive board problem involved the failure of the switching chip (with the part number pathetically scratched off it) that generates most of the power rails used in the machine. After 2 weeks of trawling the net I managed to identify the chip and replace it. This fixed the problem. So far I have been able to get 3 spindle drive and front panel keypad boards repaired and tested using my machine but so far I have not been able to get failed motors operational again due mainly to lack of time. It would be much easier if Seig published schematics (circuit diagrams) but this is wishful thinking.

I have been involved also with the "new" digital set of boards offered as replacements for failed boards but I personally do not like the way that the spindle motor comes up to speed. It is far too slow!! You could be well into a cut before the motor attained the speed set in your program. Another thing to note with the "new" digital boards is that all boards must be replaced as a set as there no backwards compatibility with the original set of boards at all.

Regards and thanks for pointing out the clearance problem. I really appreciate this.

Chrisjh in Australia

your machine was frist edition of G control board and PC interface.
right now in our new PC interface board have been include charge pump,also can be plug on power connect.

also,Syil australia shipment total old sieg mainboard.right now total new edition too. i think your receiced our new electonics from frans,right?

Syil china
xushuo

xushuo.

Chrisjh bought his X3 from us. Chris is very knowledgeable with electronics and has helped us and clients fixed the problems of the boards.. New & Old Edition boards.

With the New edition boards the spindle is somewhat too slow to start and that cannot be altered. To eliminate the chance of the spindle engaging before speed is reached it is best to increase the DWELL timing in Mach3 . This will start the spindle before doing any XYZ moves.

Another issue with the new boards is that the spindle display is not correct if you have the Syil Spindle Speed Upgrade unlike on the Old edition boards.

I think Syil need to remove the Ruler as part of the quality control as the ruler has been the cause of most problems. Would recommend to anyone with an X3 to remove the ruler.. don't need it anyway.

cheers

Sounds like the Super X3 ain,t so super probably better off with the original X3 ...Right?

After 2 weeks of trawling the net I managed to identify the chip and replace it. This fixed the problem.

Chrisjh in Australia

what's the part number of this chip? thx

Hi David,

The Dual In Line 7 pin chip is a TNY264P from Power Integrations, Inc.

I bought mine from Farnell in Aus so you should be able to source from Newark in USA. Newark Part No is 93K0737.

Symptoms when this chip fails are a dead front panel display caused by no voltage out on the pin marked 5V on the connector on the bottom of the main spindle drive board. Although this is marked 5V on the silkscreen on the board, it should be 6V as it comes directly from the 7806 TO220 regulator.

Be careful however because I have seen several dead spindle situations caused by the sliding part of the depth vernier shorting out on the front panel keypad board. When this happens a catestrophic failure of the mill generally results. The short takes out the 7806 regulator on the spindle drive board, an optocoupler (and often tracks and resistors) on the keypad board , and blows the hall effect devices in the spindle motor itself. I have yet to identify the hall effect devices but have purchased some generic devices from Farnell to try to repair a couple of blown spindle motors.

I have successfully repaired 3 blown keypad boards and 3 spindle drive boards so far and am trying to repair 2 spindle motors when I have some time (maybe this week with any luck).

Have a look at the instructions that I posted this week on this forum for modifying the keypad board to give an additional 2mm of clearance between the vernier and the board. I have done this mod to my machine and I am now confident that mine will not short out now.

Lots of luck and if you need help do not hesitate to post again. I am only too happy to assist if I can.

Regards

Chrisjh

Hi Chrisjh!



I’m writing from Hungary.
I have one old (6monts) sx3 machine and it works well.

I ordered 4 other machines from China, and they are arrived lost week, but I have a problem with them.

Everything’s ok except the spindle control.

I try to describe the problem:

If I program M3 S500, than the spindle start to rotates but doesn’t stop at 500rpm. No reaction for M4, only when I start with this code. No reaction for M5 in anytime. I couldn’t stop the spindle with Reset button in Mach3. ????? I use Mach3 1.84

I don’t understand. All of machines do the same, but the old one.

I see, China changed the spindle control and the driver board for a new one. Rev1.4 and XMT Driver1000.

I think that’s going to be a problem. Have you ever meet with the same problem? Did you see machines with this new control boards? Any ideas?


Thank you!

Tamás

Hi Tamás,

Does the machine spindle work OK with manual front panel control? That is, when the front panel toggle switch is in the upper position.

If your new machine are fitted with the later spindle control boards, check that the small piggyback board fitted to the main spindle drive board (the large board in the back of the machine) has not come loose from its sockets during transport.

I have already fixed one machine with this problem. All you need to do is carefully push the piggyback board back into its sockets. This piggyback board is the one with the microcontroller chip installed.

Let me know when you have checked the security of these boards and if it has any effect on your problem. I would find it difficult to believe that 4 machines would all have the same problem unless it is software related.

Regards

Chrisjh

Hi Chrisjh!

The machine works well if I control by the manual front panel.
But the old story when you set the switch at the upper position, than you press start and the panel indicated the 80 rpm (to show it’s ready to control by mach3), so it’s disappeared.
Small piggyback board ok. Every wire checked. I checked everything. Table works well. Only the spindle. The spindle do simply moves, it must rotate on the right speed only, but it doesn’t. :((
I try Syilamerica, Syichina mach3setup files but control still the same bad.
Any else idea?

Thank you: Tamás
.

Chrisjh I sure could use your help.

I need help with a problem with my SX3. When I turn the power on to the mill the green power indicator light comes on, the spindle speed LCD display blue back light comes on, but there is no indication on the display. I mean nothing on the display.

Also, if I try to start the spindle motor by hitting the start button, nothing happens. It is as if the machine is dead.

The model number on the motor controller is: FC1000WJYA(6.2) with a manufacture date of 2006.07.25.

Things I have checked are:
1) 20 amp fuse on AC power line is good.
2) 20 amp fuse on motor controller is good.
3) checked for loose connections and everything is tight.
4) looked for burn spots or burned up components on the PCB and none were found.
5) 8 wire connector at the bottom of the board has the following voltage readings.

S1 K3 K4 +5V GND SA SB SC
83Vdc 80Vdc 80Vdc 6Vdc 0Vdc 0Vdc 6Vdc 0Vdc

Kind of odd to see 6 Vdc on a connection labeled +5V but I traced it down to an LM7806 (6 volt regulator) and the PCB is stenciled 7806 next to the part.

6) The connector on the right hand side of the PCB where the 120 Vac comes in has the following readings

L1 N1 FG U V W
125Vac 0Vac 0Vac 14.8Vac 14.8 Vac 14.8Vac

7) Checked the wiring harness for continuity from motor controller to push button PCB located on the front of the machine. Wiring harness checked out with no shorts.

8) Checked the tapping button electrical switch for shorts or grounds. None found.

I would appreciate any help in getting the mill back up and running.

Thanks,
ddexd

Hi David,

The Dual In Line 7 pin chip is a TNY264P from Power Integrations, Inc.

I bought mine from Farnell in Aus so you should be able to source from Newark in USA. Newark Part No is 93K0737.

Symptoms when this chip fails are a dead front panel display caused by no voltage out on the pin marked 5V on the connector on the bottom of the main spindle drive board. Although this is marked 5V on the silkscreen on the board, it should be 6V as it comes directly from the 7806 TO220 regulator.

Be careful however because I have seen several dead spindle situations caused by the sliding part of the depth vernier shorting out on the front panel keypad board. When this happens a catestrophic failure of the mill generally results. The short takes out the 7806 regulator on the spindle drive board, an optocoupler (and often tracks and resistors) on the keypad board , and blows the hall effect devices in the spindle motor itself. I have
yet to identify the hall effect devices but have purchased some generic devices from Farnell to try to repair a couple of blown spindle motors.

I have successfully repaired 3 blown keypad boards and 3 spindle drive boards so far and am trying to repair 2 spindle motors when I have some time (maybe this week with any luck).

Have a look at the instructions that I posted this week on this forum for modifying the keypad board to give an additional 2mm of clearance between the vernier and the board. I have done this mod to my machine and I am now confident that mine will not short out now.

Lots of luck and if you need help do not hesitate to post again. I am only too happy to assist if I can.

Regards

Chrisjh

Allegro A3141 hall sensors work OK. You have to grind the corners of the sensors to fit the slots in the end of the motor though.
They are the correct sensors to use with the GROUND OFF Motorola Chipset. Do they think we all stupid? What is there to steal (from China!)?
The new motor board looks like a home grown version of Motorola Chipset.
CAN'T be as good as the proven MC3303X series. Same hall sensors work with new board, but reliability not known due their homegrown Atmel CPU BLDC controller.


Neil

errata:
About the stealing bit. It's not us. It's to protect them from internal theft. Sorry. I stupid.

ddexd.

The small cable plugged in next to the green connector that goes to the hall sensors is the one that goes to the front panel (or daisy chained via the CNC interface if fitted)

I have not measured what is on S1,S2 and K3. Can someone confirm these measurements?

Because you have SA,SB,SC = 0v,6v,0v the hall sensors are probably OK.
Rotating the spindle by hand should make SA,SB,SC go 0v-6v sequentially.

Of SA,SB & SC. at any one time at least 1 be at 0v and at least one will be at at 6v. Never all at 6v, and never all at 0v. If this is the case the hall sensors are OK.

neilw20, thanks for the help.

Just in case the hall sensors are out I went ahead and ordered a few from Digikey. By the way the Allegro A3141 hall sensors have been replaced with an updated model Allegro A1101.

I traced S1 down and it goes to the tapping switch. Connections K3 & K4 are wired to the ESTOP button and the chip guard door. The two switches appear to be wired in series.

The small pink colored connector is wired to the control panel mounted on the front of the mill.

I've attached a couple of photos of the connector and the pin labels. The first 3-photos are of the control panel and the last is of the motor PCB.

I also put in a call to Grizzly tech support and I was promised that one of their electrical support folks would be calling me back within 24hours.

PM me if you want to know the 3 black linished IC's

Just got a call from Grizzly. They told me that my machine was part of a batch that did not receive some kind of upgrade and that they are sending me the parts for the upgrade.

I have no idea if this will fix the mill, but if it doesn't they will certainly get a phone call.

An update on my repairs.

I found several chips on the Control Board and Motor Board that were either shorted, did not meet the manufacturer’s data sheets, or just replaced outright.

The first photo shows the Control Board that is mounted on the mill head. The 8-pin DIP is a Digital Potentiometer (X9C103P) that was found to be shorted between the power supply. This chip is available from Newark or Digikey. I do have a concern that the X9C103P chip will have a shortened life. This chip is being supplied 6 Vdc and the data sheet lists the power supply range to be 5Vdc +/- 10% or (4.5 to 5.5 Vdc), typical for a 5Vdc part. There is one line on the data sheet that lists the absolute maximum voltage as "Voltage on CS, INC, U/D and VCC with respect to VSS ..... -1V to +7V". I suspect the designers of the control board are pushing the chip design.

The other two chips on the board are blown optocouplers (Fairchild 817C). I found replacements at Digikey (NEC 2501A).

Just a note, I installed an IC socket for the X9C103 and the optocouplers to make future replacement easier.

The second photo is of the Motor Board. With thanks to neilw20 I was able to find and get replacements for the 3-socketed DIP IC's. I did find the optocoupler located below the 7-lead IC on the bottom left was blown.

I found the 6 Vdc regulator (LM7806) was also shorted. At least the board designers placed a current limiting resistor on the power supply to the chip. This helps prevent burning up traces on the Motor & Control Boards.

The last two socketed IC's 8-pin & 24-pin were replaced outright.

I'm happy to say all the repairs were successful and the mill is now working. I'm still waiting on the upgrade parts that Grizzly was supposed to have sent me.

I guess if you look at the bright side of the failures, I believe that I have figured out a way to interface the CNC4PC C11G breakout board speed controller output to the SX3 mill. It looks to be as simple as installing a switch to toggle between Mach3 & local speed control and then connecting the C11G analog output to the Motor Board P1, P2 connections and the ground to GND. The P1 & P2 connections are connected together at the Control Board. The C11G would then need to be adjusted for 6Vdc maximum output. Of course you will need to install an isolated 12Vdc power supply on the C11G analog output. I haven't tried the modification yet, but it should work.

Thanks,
ddexd

Excellent work David!

I am working on a similar fix for transferring the PWM spindle speed control signal and direction bit direct to the motor control board bypassing all the rubbish and the micro on an intermediate board.
Just have to finish tracing out all of the circuits before I commit it to the soldering iron. I will opto-isolate if required.
Target is to get SOLID TAPPPING under Mach3 working. Tacho signals from tacho generator chip will do perfectly, because of cog belt drive.
Probably will use a PIC to perfect this without too many parts. Depends on belt ratio issues.
Due to differences the early and late model motor boards need a different approach. I will do the early, then the later version. (as time permits!)

Hi ddexd,

Sorry about the delay in responding to you call for help. Things have been a bit hectic around here. Most recent problem was loose spindle bearings which I finally fixed this arvo. Tore the spindle out, cleaned and repacked the lower taper bearing and the central thrust bearing with hi temp wheel bearing grease, then made a special tube spanner to tighten the upper M27x1.5 nuts. Used a small hydraulic jack to support the spindle taper while I drifted the upper bearing with a bored piece of 1" water pipe until I had some sort of preload on the whole rotating assembly. Now all the endfloat and dreadful noise are gone.

Looks like you have sorted things out. Your experience with blown digital potentiometer and the optocouplers on the keypad board along with the shorted 7806 Regulator on the main spindle board are classic symptoms of what occurs when the quill height vernier sliding bar shorts out on the rear of the keypadboard. This is a known desigh problem with the Seig/Syil X3 machines. I have posted a modification that I did to my machine to ensure that it does not happen again.

I am surprised that the hall effect sensors on the spindle motor did not blow as well. I have seen 3 machines that have suffered the short out with the digital vernier bar and have been able to repair them by replacing the components that you mention along with the 3 hall effect sensors. I used Allegro A1101 in a 3 Pin SIP Package availabe from Farnell or Newark. The hall effect sensors are connected to the 6VDC rail. This is the power rail that is marked 5V but is really 6V as you discovered.

Another thing to look out for is the pins in the cable end plastic housings sometimes come out of the housing ( they are supposed to be locked in with a small "fish hook syle barb" on the rear side of the pins). I had one machine where this happened and the symptoms were exactly as you described, that is Blue backlighting on the digital LCD display but nothing else. Turned out to be the pins had come out of the housing on the cable running between the LCD board and the spindle board.

Regards

Chrisjh

Chrisjh,

The damage might have been significantly reduced because I have my equipment plugged into an GFCI. The day I tried to turn the mill on the GFCI was tripped so it may have provided the protection because there were no signs of the control board touching the spindle metal scale.

Thanks,
ddexd

neilw20,

After studying the newer control board it is very clear that the digital potentiometer is wired to be increased / decreased from the switches on the board. It looks like the Atmel chip toggles the optocouplers that go to the switches to disable the speed control (I need to trace it down).

The output from the digital potentiometer is then just a simple DC signal that is sent to the LM324 OPAMP where it is put through a unity follower before it is sent through the second amplifier where the signal is zeroed and scaled using the blue trim pots located at the bottom left of the control board (see control board in my previous post).

I agree, a PIC could easily be programmed to do the same thing.

Good luck with tracing out boards.

Thanks,
ddexd

Hi guys,

I have a Syil super X3, it has been working fine but the other night the spindle started to randomly stop (as if the estop was pressed). Now when i start the spindle im manual mode it runs, if i increase and decrese the speed or stop and start the spindle it will have random shutdowns like pressing the estop. Any ideas??

Clayton

Melbourne, Australia

The useless hinged guard is in series with E-stop.
The adjustment at the pivot is not very sound, and can get out of whack.
Mine is in the cupboard.
Protects you from the chuck, but not the tool hanging out.
Are you going to the BBQ on the 23rd?

I removed the guard and its shaft a while ago but the switch and wiring remains intacted? Could this be the problem?
What BBQ?

The UPS man dropped off the electrical upgrade kit from Grizzly. To my surprise the upgrade kit consisted of the following.

1) New motor with wiring harness.
2) New motor board with wiring harness.
3) New control board
4) New LCD display with wiring harness.

Basically a completely new set of everything electrical except the power cord that plugs into the wall. I do have to say the Grizzly customer service is outstanding.

On a side note, the repairs for the most part work but I have found the following issues.
1) The tapping speed seems to be a little high at 120 RPM. If memory serves, I thought the tapping RPM was about 80 RPM. I should be able to adjust this out with one of the trim pots on the control board.
2) The big issue is, I can press the Emergency Stop button but the mill keeps on running. (nuts) The thing is I can hear the relay energize and de-energize when I push and reset the stop button. I have also measured the voltage across the push button and it is working. I'm a bit puzzled why the mill doesn't shutdown. I may have to trace out the motor board to find the problem unless anyone has an idea or solution for the problem.

If anyone is interested have a rough draft schematic of the control board in EAGLE CAD if anyone is interested in a copy. But I must warn you that the schematic is very rough and I have only made a single pass in putting it together.

Thanks,
ddexd

Even though you removed the guard the wires thru the switch must be in the closed state. Also the wire crimping on the little white connectors is poor.
Give each one a GENTLE tug. Wrong crimping tool has been used IMO.
Careful not to short anything to chassis. It might cause smoke. Easy to get out. Hard to get back in again.
Also beware of shorts from the digital readout mechanism to the pushbutton board.

Speaking of smoke...

BBQ:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=406708&postcount=1


Neil

Just figured out why the mill keeps running even with the E-Stop button pressed. After a couple of hours looking at the motor board and contemplating having to reverse engineer a schematic. I finally decided to check the large blue relay. This is the source of the problem.

Even though I could hear the relay cycle, I assumed the relay was good. Well, I found a data sheet for the relay so I was able to figure out the contacts. I found the normally open contacts to be welded to the common terminal. So no matter what, AC power is gets to the motor controller no matter what the relay / E-Stop is doing and hence the motor kept running.

Now I just need to find a replacement relay and everything should be as good as new.

Thanks,
ddexd

Hi Dave.

I am interested in a rough copy of the circuit.

There will be an OMRON relay that is a direct plug in.
Is that the blue rectangular relay, on the board that has the motorola chipset? I can dig out a number if you have problems.

Neil

Neil,

I sent you an email with the schematic. Please let me know if I need to make any corrections to the schematic. And yes, the relay is the large blue relay. I found an Omron relay on Digikey that should work.

Thanks,
ddexd

Dave.

I just have to find a copy of EAGLE CAD
I normally use my homegrown version, in preference to the horrible pprotel interface.
Same goes for my PCB's

I just export my files to protel for others to use.
Now I must figure the EAGLE CAD data structure too.
Hmm.. another instant project.

Thanks.
Neil

That relay: Beware there are a few different pinouts that look the same.
Measure the pitch carefully and check the contact arrangement.
They also come in normal and sensitive variety, so check the resistance too.
High sensitivity 24v DC coil is about 1100 ohms.

Update, I de-soldered the large blue relay from the motor board and confirmed one set of contacts was welded together. The replacement relay was a Panasonic model number JW2SN-DC24V. I soldered the new one in and now when I press the E-Stop button, power to the spindle is killed and the spindle stops.

This means everything is now working like it should. It has been a long couple of weeks tracing down and repairing the boards, but now I have spare parts in case of future problems and I believe I now know how to interface a CNC4PC model C11G to the SX3 for spindle speed control.

Thanks again for everyone's help.
ddexd

I too had problems with my old electronics, shorting on the scale. Here is a list of components I had to replace:


Main board:

Designator Package Replacement part
7806 TO-220 ST L7806
Q1 SOT-23 MMBT2907
Q2 SOT-23 MMBT2222
Q3 SOT-23 MMBT2907
Q4 TO-92 PN2222

Motor:

Quantity 3 hall effect sensors. Old part number was UTC U18, replaced with
Allegro A3280.

http://www.utc-ic.com/spec/U18.pdf

Front panel board:

Designator Package Replacement part
R22 1/8W TH 47 ohm
U3 SO-14 ST LM324
U2 DIP-8 X9C103P
U7 DIP-4 Fairchild H11A817C
U8 DIP-4 Fairchild H11A817C




I since have received the upgraded boards. The circuit interface is quite different between the front panel and the main board, it is some kind of synchronous serial interface and it seems like it is polling the pushbuttons.

In my journey to upgrade to CNC I have come up with a plan. The Syil spindle board is not the best because it does not have fast ramp times and I'm unsure how good semi-rigid tapping will work with that. I don't really want to use the old main board as it is pretty dodgy. I occasionally had to whack my e-stop relay to get the machine to work and it does not have isolated inputs.

My plan is to use an aftermarket brushless amplifier for the spindle with analog inputs. The old front panel controller should work with this and I can also easily interface it to Mach3. With the addition of a simple relay I can select from the front panel or Mach3 control.

I have been designing BLDC circuitry upto 2KW so I am comfortable renovating the existing unreliable,cobbled together lot.
I have used the the MC33035, MC33039 controller setup and they work really well when implemented correctly in proper current mode with slope compensation, and proper PID design of the speed/power control loop.
You can even dynamically brake the MC33035, which goes towards solid tapping....

I am going to come up with a fix on the whole thing, including some new small control boards. The interface system lost the plot when it went CNC.
Before that it still sucked.

That sounds like a fun project. I'd like to see what you come up with.

I too have designed some BLDC servo controllers for work, around 500W, with CANbus and s-curve velocity profile generation. Right now I think I can find a used brushless amplifier on ebay for $100 or so, and that's my plan.

With one of those amps, a SSR for estop, a relay for switching from manual/auto control, and a few discretes I think I will have something.


Another thing worth noting is the spindle motor. The "old electronics" motor has a voltage rating of 110V, and the "new" one is 220V. The RPM listed is the same, 3500 RPM. The old amp must have driven the motor differently or something.

I think I will switch back to the old motor, and with a aftermarket amp I should be able to get some more spindle speed. This is better than a pulley change because I will still have low speed torque.

As far as spindle speed goes, I did notice when I was making repairs to the control boards when I bypassed the digital potentiometer that I could get the spindle speed up to 2500+ rpm. With a working digital potentiometer installed the maximum spindle speed is only 1730 rpm.

Neil, definitely would like to see your board design to replace the standard SX3 control boards.

As far as spindle speed goes, I did notice when I was making repairs to the control boards when I bypassed the digital potentiometer that I could get the spindle speed up to 2500+ rpm. With a working digital potentiometer installed the maximum spindle speed is only 1730 rpm.

Neil, definitely would like to see your board design to replace the standard SX3 control boards.

Oh good, I'm glad to see that it can go faster. Thanks for that. I did try the old motor with the new circuit boards and it did not accelerate correctly. It sort of jumped a bit on acceleration which I'm guessing would be incorrect feed forward / PID tuning in the new controller circuit. It didn't go any faster, either; I think the controller is closing the velocity loop.

Hi Chrisjh, can you please provide details of the switching chip IC please. My board failed only after 2 hours of use (I hope it hasn't blown the main motor controller as well). The problem is that my board was wedged in an it got damaged as I was dismantling it so I now have a broken board which I am wonder in I can repair. So anyone who can provide a circuit diagram I would be grateful, or any advise on where I can get a replacement.


Thanks

Alex

If it is a late model Motor control PCB in the X3 the switchmode chip (u201) is VIPer22a from ST
Data:
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&ct=res&cd=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.st.com%2Fstonline%2Fproducts%2Fliterature%2Fds%2F12050%2Fviper22a-e.htm&ei=neMSSNrHM52ypgSQgLmTAg&usg=AFQjCNFl90awafY7-tQh-5oGXe2rXFcI6w&sig2=tIv8Zux6kUBsRSFbsF7e8w
If it is an early PCB without the piggy back PCB is a TNY268PN
Data sheet:
http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&ct=res&cd=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.datasheetcatalog.com%2Fdatasheets_pdf%2FT%2FN%2FY%2F2%2FTNY268P.shtml&ei=0-QSSL-UNJqYoQSolaiQAg&usg=AFQjCNHT2Zl4VnTkiwu3vWv6yZ6nARRDcQ&sig2=1dbnuNEj6NeYNSxXot1gvw
I know most of the chips that have been ground off.
IMHO the older PCB is a better design.
Chinese grown BLDC can't be as good a tried and tested design from Motorola.

They don't grind the tops off to hide them from us here.
It's so their CN neighbors don't clone them!

Neil

Thanks for these pictures they were able to help me identify a small surface mount resister than just "brushed off" the board (so much for the soldering techniques) when I was pulling out my failed controller. I saw it tumble into a sea of saw dust and filings so I have no hope of recovering it. So can anyone help and tell me what value R23 is on the controller board please - also any help with part numbers would help as well.


Thanks

Alex

neilw20, thanks for the help.

Just in case the hall sensors are out I went ahead and ordered a few from Digikey. By the way the Allegro A3141 hall sensors have been replaced with an updated model Allegro A1101.

I traced S1 down and it goes to the tapping switch. Connections K3 & K4 are wired to the ESTOP button and the chip guard door. The two switches appear to be wired in series.

The small pink colored connector is wired to the control panel mounted on the front of the mill.

I've attached a couple of photos of the connector and the pin labels. The first 3-photos are of the control panel and the last is of the motor PCB.

I also put in a call to Grizzly tech support and I was promised that one of their electrical support folks would be calling me back within 24hours.

Alex.

Can you take a picture of your problem area.

I haven't got access to back of SX3 at present, but will have a look if your PCB matches my model PCB's.

Are you taking the 7 hour drive to the BBQ?:wave:

Neil