Hello Guys,

Back a month or so ago I upgraded a 700c from level 311 software to 600.

A fellow board member was kind enough to give me a programing manual, but it does not have any info on how to use the graphics.

Can you please help with graphics operation,would you be willing to copy or scan this section of your manual please?

Also is anyone using DNC to this control, if so what software are you using?

Please contact me to make arrangements sentnermts@netscape.com.

Thanks for your help.

Regards
DD

I will be back at work Sunday 21st October. I will see what I can find in our manuals. If there is nothing there I may be able to help but I'd need to know what you have already tried. I will also ask about DNC.

Hi Deckeldoctor
Maho 432 control is very old I did run DNC using Heidenhain Tnc data transfer software from Heidenhain and it run on Dos I dont know if you still can use it on today win sp or vista.

I have used serial interface from Cadds5, ages ago though & 2d downloads form EzCam (not DNC though). Maho 432 has 3 buffer zones in the memory for DNC trickle, one in use, one being filled ready to go, one being dumped. You can set the amount of memory reqd. doesnt need much. I never used the graphics. I would rather do it all offline on computer CAM software & verify somehow then send to machine memory or trickle feed for 3d stuff.

Hello Guys

Thank you for the replies, a fellow board member has copied the manual for the graphics help.
I have been able to send programs to and from the machine using rs232 no problems.

My customer is now using the machine to its full capability and is now generating long programs from the cad/cam system and I would like to get the Drip feeding to work.

Regards
DD

The maho manual should tell you how to get drip feeding to work, a lot of button pressing sequence to go through on the Maho keyboard to prepare the mc b4 "go". It's ages since I had need to do it & would would have to dig up the procedure. If no one else helps or you get stuck I will try & find the method I used.

Hi I see that this is an old thread but I have just bougth a maho mh 500 c. with 432 controll on it. I belived that there was no dripfeed options on this controll. Is there different versions of the 432 controll?
what is the memroy of the 432 controll 256 kb ??

Best Regards Arild Brudeli

My Maho 700HS has Philips 432 has 256 kbytes of which 128 is able to be used & 128 there for editing while a program is still running the machine. There are different versions but I think they can all do the drip feed DNC. If you need any help please ask again & will look up all you need to know. Regards from VWS in Australia.

This is maybe a stupid question but is trickle feed and drip feed the same thing?

A belive that when doing drip feed. The cable have to be of the full handshake type. Its DB25 in the machine and I would like to use the DB9 com port from my computer. could anyone tell me if this is the correct cable? ( Se picture)

I can't find any parameters regarding dripfeed but my manuals is in german and I'm not so familiar with that language. Deckeldoctor did you get your machine up and running with drip feed?

Do anyone have a nice G code program to share. I use Edgecam and will build ut a postprosessor for my machine. And I need some example programs to know how to build up the code. would love a program with drilling and/or 3D milling

i do DMG service, so i kinda know a bit about them LOL. not all 432 controls, especially early ones did drip feed, but they could be upgraded with a newer CPU and software. (not cheap though). If your not sure if you can drip feed look for a softkey called BTR (means between the tapereader). if you have this softkey then it should work. The communications constants usually start somewhere above N700 in the constants display. Scroll up and read the discription for each constant. you will need to match them up to your computer for RS232 communication. BTW a simple 3 wire is all that's needed

I wil check in the parameters after BTW. I have not been able to start the machine jet. Because I have 3x230 V AC in my workshop and the machine is buildt for 3x 400V. Anyone know if it is possible to modify the maho mh 500 c to 3x230V?
I belive that this could be hard to do. So I migth buy a transformator.

witch period was the 432 produced? could I see the production year in the serialnumber of the machine maybe?

smoregrava:
Probably the cheapest method is to use 220-440 step-up transformer. Much cheaper than replacing servo drives which are most likely 440 volt. The earliest 432 control that I ever saw, was from the early 1980's. It was replaced in the early 1990's by the 532. There were several versions of the 432 during that production run. The 432-12 was the last, I believe. The 432-10 was the most common around here.

smoregrava
We also use MH 500 and 800 c machines from the early 80's. We had a similar problem with the power supply and ended up using a tranformer, as 'the bodger' suggested, with no problems. We don't drip feed as we manually input quick programmes which rely on G11, G14, G64, E variables and canned cycles to keep them short. I can send you a few samples if you think you will make use of MDI. We have one piece of literature on drip feeding which suggests the following procedures;
Machine Set Up.-Manual-Menu-1-BTR off-Programme memory-Data In/Out-Input-Auto-DNC-Cycle Start.
Computer Set Up.-CNC files- Open programme-Cursor at top-View-Show send bullet-File-Send to machine.
I don't know how useful this is, it might make more sense once you have power to your machine or maybe 'the bodger' can shed some light on it. Anyway, good luck, they really are good machines so stick with it.

Solid Sender I would love to have som example programs from you.

I have a couple of question regarding maho mh 500. I think my machine is very unstable (short distanse between the legs) could you read this post and see if your machines are like this?
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52333&highlight=maho

Another question. I,m very qonfused with the axes on the machine. I'm used to have the Z axis up and down against the table. but on this machine this is the Y axis. Is it possible to change the axis configuration in the parameters so it could be the same system as the other machines i work with?

smoregrava.
I agree with The Bodger in regard to the floor mounting. Our two small 600s are only laying on thin steel and rubber packers just to even up the machine on the concrete floor. They have 100 mm more X travel than your 500 and are still very stable.
I also agree with VWSat, if you unbolt the verticle attachment you will find another spindle nose in the horizontal position, that is G17 and will give you the xyz axis configeration we are all familiar with. 95% of our programmes are written in G18 (with the attachment in the vertical position) only because G17 is so difficult to gain visual access for datum checking etc. I think most machinists struggle with G18 initially, you will understand the xyz configeration it just needs time and practice. Once you have your head round G18 you can then move on to G19, another story entirely.
If you can send me a private message with a postal address I will send you a variety of programmes which will give you a fair understanding of how versatile this processor is. There is too much information for posting on this thread.

Yes yes yes this weekend I conneced my Maho mh 500 to my transformer and started it up for the first time. It works but I need to type inn the machine parameters. I have the parameter list. But it seems as I don't have the permission to save the new parameter. I went into the parameter list and typed inn the parameter. But when I push save, nothing happens. If I understand the manual there is a switch that I have to set on to save parameters. Anyone know where I find this switch?

I have the parameter list. But does anyone have the list that show the meaning of each parameter for the 432 control?

I also found a wire ( to leader) at the end of the spindle motor (picture) but I did not know what this wire are used for. Any Ideas anyone

Switch off power, open control door at back of MAHO mc & find circuit board with 3 switches on lhs . It should tell you on a label which one is to allow for the parameters to be changed. You will need to switch thew mc off to throw the switch again. It take AGES, be patient! Sometimes you have to repeat the entrys again & again as it does it's own checking I guess.

Alternative method to turning on switch. At the operator station, select the constants screen. Press the "operate mc" function soft key. Look for constant N80, move cursor to highlight "C" and press 1 and enter, then store.
This will now appear on screen as N80 C1. (This is the unlock Key parameter).
Now press the "manual operation" key on the operator panel. The control will reboot. Now go to constants screen, and press the "EDIT MC" function soft key. From here enter each constant from the list. You must enter the value for "C" then enter key, then store funtion key. I like to scoll down to the constant that displays the description as "sprache" (excuse my spelling, it is the german word for language) and set it first to language of your choice. Then press "MANUAL" again to reboot the machine in your language. Then continue entering the rest of the constants. As a last important step, you must return constant "N80" to C0, to lock the constant list, then press MANUAL key to reboot. I hope this helps.

P.S. I prefer this method to the switch method, because I can do everything from the operator station. Also if some N constants don't appear, enter the ones that you can. Reboot the control, and the missing ones will appear, because some constants turn on (or make missing ones appear). As stated by VW in above post, you may need to repeat proceedure a few times. You may lose all your settings if the lead acid battery is dead. You may need a new battery if it won't charge.

thanks I really like the panel way. I will try this.

Ibelive that the Battery is faulty because the person who had this before said He had to put inn the parameters Each time he started the machine.

What is the spec of the battery? Is this a very odd battery or something I could buy at a lokal chop. I will change it before I type in the parameters.

The battery is nothing really special. It is a 6 volt lead acid gel cell type. It is slightly smaller than a standard motorcyle battery, but it must be 6 volts. I'll try to see if I can find a spare battery around our shop, so that I can give you ampere/hour rating and rough dimentions. You could remove your battery, and just read the specifications from it. I believe on those older controls, it is located under the keyboard.

Okay I open up an take a closer look under the keyboard. And se if I can se a battery. I looked into the back of the machine .but I could't find anyting there. I check it This weekend.

Searchin for the battery.
I Have locked Under the Keyboard. Behind the display And the undrside of the But I can't find this?
Any other place to search for this battery

My Maho has the battery deep inside the control compartment at the back of the mc. You can not see it at all nor access it without its 12volts becoming disconnected from the memory as you pull out the tray, so you lose all the parameters at battery changes, a real dumb design. You have to undo some screws & pull out a panel or tray/box & a standard gell type lead acid type motorbike type battery is there, about 150mm long.
I saw a photo of a used mc for sale in Germany & they had the battery just sitting there on the floor of the controls compartment always in full view with wires leading into the guts, at least this way you could connect up a new one without power being lost to your memory! A new battery should last for many years, but if you are about to put in all your parameters I would install a new battery first &maybe try the above trick, or look into modifications to allow some way of backing up power during battery swaps.

Look for the battery under the cover plate indicated with the arrow in the attached picture. If you control boards are located in the operator station, the battery will be there, NOT on the back of the machine. Only in new type machines did MAHO relocate the control to the back cabinet. If you control is in the operator station, then the battery is there for sure. And just for a side note, it is rather difficult to get tools into the small area to remove it. What I did, was to make the battery wires longer so that I could attach the battery to the side of the cabinet with a small sheet metal bracket. This makes it much easier to check, or replace if needed.

Have been a bit bussy last weeks but yesterday I tried to locate the battery. I found it :banana:. It was under the panel. But I had to take out the power card from Behind/Underneath the panel. I think I will place the battery at the outside of this slot. So it will be easier to check and change if needed.
the battery is 6V 10Ah. In a local shop i found a battery 6V with 12 Ah. This battery had the same messurements as the origianl battery. There should not be any problem to use a 12 Ah battery?

Another CNC opperator in my Area who have a Maho 432 control had a A20 alarm on start up. Anyone have an error list for A errors. I found that this is a system error but can't find any info about it anywhere

Yes, best to change the setup so as to be able to swap the battery without losing the 6volts power so you cant lose all your memory &parameters, might need double leads for a 2nd ie another battery to allow keeping 6v on while the battery is exchanged. I reckon the bigger battery will be OK if it is fully charged before you fit it.

Very good idea to move the battery to a place thats more accessible, for future battery changes. The amp/hour rating is not so critical as long as it is something close to 12/hour. As far as the A20 alarm, I have never seen this, but sometimes when you get these strange alarms it means the system has corrupted constants or some constant is not set correctly. Also when you start the control, look at the self-test during the boot sequence. Observe if everything gets a "pass", or if something fails. You may try reloading the constants, see if that gets rid of the A20.

I got a little closer today. Seems as my control is quite old. I don't have more than 214 parameters. So I migth not have the drip fees oportunety.

I fitted my new battery outside the power box I think this will work OK. I checked the voltage 6.0 before power up. After power up the control 6.15 V.

I cant get the panel version of constant memory switch to work. I press test and choose machine constant menu. But i can't find any "operate mc" soft key.

But I found the switch insde my cabinet. So I inserted all my parameters. Put the switch back again at started up again. But now i got a I01 Error. I found this in the manual. If I translate rigth this means something like conection without voltage. Anynoe have any idea?

smoregrava:
I01 usually means the the drives and hydralics are not running. It is the samething as pressing the emergency stop button. This is the normal way the machine starts. Now you must start the machine hydraulics and drives. To do this , first press the "manual" operation button on the panel. Then press the "clear control" button if there is one. Now press the "hydraulic start" and hold it down (you may hear some relays clicking and the pump cycle on). While holding the hydraulic on button down, at same time press the "clear" button on the panel. You may need to repeat the hydraulic-clear button a few time until it catches and stay on. It's kind of like learning to operate the cluch in your car. The timing of button presses is kind of fussy. If it still won't start, press and hold down the hydraulic button, while looking at the 2 digit fault display unit on the side of the electro cabinet. It should show 00 or --, if the system is good. If not and there is some number there, then you need to look in the electrical wiring manual to see what the numbers mean. It usually show someting like low oil level or pressure, or a circuit breaker is tripped.

I tried the clear and hydraulic buttton but notting happend. When I did this before I heard that the machine connected so it should work after I have added my parameters. I also checked the emergency button on the panel but now I remeber that it is one more emergency button on the side of the cabinett. I migth have pressed this in by an acident while trying to reach my memory button ( Machine is standing a little close to the wall). I forgott this(chair)



Here is how i fitted the battery
outside the power card. And a picture of my memory switch inside my cabinet
manual after is the screen a have when starting up after all parameters is set.

As I asumed the emergency button on the cabinet was activated. I reset this and tried to start up again. Now I hear the hydraulics connect. But still I can't manage to stay conected. I cant find any 2 digit fault display unit on the side of the electro cabinet. My machine migth be a little older. anyway I will recheck oil levels and circut breakers, end switches and more. I have not conected any air pressure to the machine. Acual I havent seen any connection for air. I have to look a little closer. Seems to me as I am really close to a working machine here

I have checked oil levels and have tried to set the hydraulic button. But it wont stay on. After some testing I discovered that if I hold the hydraulic button in and press clear. Then I war able to jog the axes. I tested all tree axses in bouth directions. Worked fine. Strange that I can't manage to stay on. When I hold the button down and press clear it seems to be in ready position.

I'm sorry, I don't quite understand what your trying to say. It is normal that you have to press "clear" button after holding the hydraulic start button. Are you saying that the machine will not stay on if you release the hydraulic button??

yes correct it does not stay on when I release the hydraulic button.
I have tried the sequence you dercribed. But it wont stay on.
Also tried to press bouth buttons at the same time two times inside 5 sek.

You must press " Hydraulic Button" ,"Hydraulic button" ," "Clear button" and "Hold" the "clear button" until the machine starts all within 5-10 seconds or it will not start.

It may take a couple of times of doing the above sequence.

Regards
Deckeldoctor


Bodger I may be coming to your area in a couple of weeks for service calls.

Tried the secuence this morning. But same result. As soon as I release hydraulic button the hydraulicsgoes off. I tried press " Hydraulic Button" ,"Hydraulic button" ," "Clear button" and "Hold" the "clear button" until the machine starts but it won't start.

When I turn machine on i got error I01,I01
If i hold down the hydraulics and press clear and release the Hydraulic button then I got O05,I01 Regarding to my manual this seems to be rigth. and the manula says I then should press Hydraulics and clear button.

Anyway. If I hold the hydraulic button pressed in with one finger. I'm able to run all the axes. I also mannage to do referens search in all axses.

I took a fast look into the wiring scheme. And I se that it should be a ligth showing the Hydraulics is on. Should this ligth up when I press down the hydraulic button? I belive the ligth bulb is in the button?
There is no ligth there now.

You must press " Hydraulic Button" ,"Hydraulic button" ,"AND "Clear button" and "Hold" the "clear button and hydraulics " until the machine starts all within 5-10 seconds or it will not start.

Sorry for the typo in the above post, the second time you must press hydraulics and clear and hold until the machine starts.


Did this machine operate before?

If this is the first time this machine is being commissioned try changing 2 wires of the 3 phase going into the machine maybe the hydraulic pump is trying backwards and cannot build pressure and the machine will not start because of this.

Regards
DD

Yes its the first time I start this machine. The owner before me never had it running. Because he did not have 400V in his workshop. I did not have 400 V at my workshop eigther so I bougth a 220-400 step up transformer. I have to check this

mvh Arild Brudeli

I looked at you Ski winch thats one way to do it with no boat.:cheers:

I too ride motorcycles,I have had a BMW 500 & 600. My current motorcycle is a 1981 Honda Goldwing that I bought new and it has 176,000 miles on it with no problems. I have never had to much to it other than maintenance change the cam belts and cables.

Regards
DD

Hello Arild

You are logged into the site have you tried switching the wires?

Regards
DD

I tried to change 2 wires of the 3 phase and guess what :banana::banana:

Yes the machine works. I testet the spindle to and everything seems to work. Nice thanks folks for helping me out.

Now I will try to learn some of the integrated cycles of the machine and I wil connect to a computer. I have made a postpocessor for edgecam witch I Use as CADCAM software. I'll share it here at CNCzone when it's done

The Ski winch is greate fun. It's really a great accelration.

Deckeldoctor great to heare there is more motorcyclist's here. Have you done any nice parts for you bike on the CNC machines? Here is a picture of a Barke fluid cover I made on my old EMCO CNC

Hello Arild

Glad to here it is running.

I have made some parts for my motorcycle brass inserts GL1100 that go on the heads, and a few other parts.


Regards
DD

smoregrava, glad to here you got it running! sorry i have not posted for a while , but I have been busy, I'm installing floors in my house. My better half has just purchased a new flat screen Sony TV and she wants that installed too, so i have alot of work taking up my spare time. Deckeldoctor, if your coming up to Canada, please PM me if your in the Toronto area. If you get some free time while your here, it would be nice if you drop into our shop for a little tour to see our operation, and some pet projects my sidekick and me are up to.

PS smoregrava, forgot to mention. That's a mean looking GSX. They were nice fast bikes. I have a 1991 FZR 1000 with only 10000 kilometer in my garage, lots of yoshimura, and home made titanium and alloy parts. It's deadly fast. Maybe time to sell it , I'm getting a bit too old

thebodger@roger you can't be to old for motocycles....
"home made titanium and alloy parts" music to my ear any pictures?

Yesterday I was testing a little on my machine. I realiced that it's very time consuming to teach in program from the panel. So I have to fix my Serial connection rigth away. Then I can write the program on my computer and download it to the machine. I belive that the DB25 connector at the side of the panel is the place to connect for serial to computer. I also found some more connectors on the machine. (picture conector1_2)Is any of this for a Jog wheel?


I don't have jog wheel but i would love to have that on my mahcine.

the DB15 and the Multi connector. could that be for a C axis? My machine is mh 500C and I have heard that this means it has a C axis but I don't know. I don't have any C axis so I just wondering.