Well.... Patience pays off, although it REALLY is difficult to be patient, once you order one of Joe's kits.

Mine arrived yesterday afternoon, and I immediately opened the very large, very heavy carton, and unpacked the MANY beautifully cut MDF and HDPE parts that Joe includes in the kit.

I plan to document the building process here... hopefully, I can contribute back a bit, in appreciation for the help I've already gotten from those who've "gone before me".

And a special, public Thank You to Joe for designing, and crafting such a great product. I never dreamed that it would be possible for me to own a CNC machine of this size and quality.....

-Taylor

Welcome to the club take your time enjoy your build and feel free to ask any all questions that you may have. We are here to help.

Rick

Nice looking kit. I'm cheap... So I'm building mine from scratch. I have made jigs for the placement specific parts.

Not a big deal to make (I'm a woodworker anyway) with WW tools but... If you don't have the tools I have I wouldn't try doing it that way. I use allot of incra stuff which makes repeatibility dead on every time and a sliding table with an incra fence makes the dados easy.

Many parts don't have to be in the exact place they are in the plans but every piece needs to be the same.


I finally have time to work on it again so I'm finally getting close. I ran out of scrap MDF I had lying around and went to HD to get more... Big mistake. The HD near me only carries 3/4 and 5/8 they don't carry 1/2" or 1/4" anymore. (just another reason I shop at other HDs usually and Lowes).

Actually no one carries 1/4" 4X8 sheets here anymore. Will have to call my plywood supplier and see if they have it and at what price. If not I'll skin the torsin boxes with ply.

Taylor,

Now the fun starts, you'll have a great time with it! :)
Look forward to seeing your progress!!


elcam84, start a log, would like to see your progress also!


Bob

Yes, please let us know how things proceed. We need more people from NM doing this type of fun stuff!

Well, I guess I've gotten about all of the mileage I can out of showing off the parts.... to friends, relatives, and neighbors who could care less about the project. Today, I'll get out there and start putting a finish on all those parts.

I saw a suggestion here about putting on a coat of thinned wood working glue that appealed to me. I know that MDF can drink up primer and paint like crazy, and the glue idea appeals to me.....

And I need to make up a fixture to support one end of the long lengths of gas pipe, so that I can sand and polish them. Fortunately, I have a Smithy lathe/mill... so if I remove the tailstock, I can replace it with a home-built live center assembly, and start turning black pipe into shiny pipe....

Hey CactusChip.... where are you in New Mexico? I live in Alameda (an Albuquerque suburb), right off 4th and Alameda Blvd.

-Taylor

Watered down glue works well on the edges of the MDF. Some other wood workers I know use drywall mud(haven't tried it)


My question is since everyone is smoothing out the pipe which isn't a bad idea... What are you doing to keep it from rusting. You could wax it like you do cast iron tops but that doesn't last long.

Well, I guess I've gotten about all of the mileage I can out of showing off the parts.... to friends, relatives, and neighbors who could care less about the project. Today, I'll get out there and start putting a finish on all those parts.

I saw a suggestion here about putting on a coat of thinned wood working glue that appealed to me. I know that MDF can drink up primer and paint like crazy, and the glue idea appeals to me.....

And I need to make up a fixture to support one end of the long lengths of gas pipe, so that I can sand and polish them. Fortunately, I have a Smithy lathe/mill... so if I remove the tailstock, I can replace it with a home-built live center assembly, and start turning black pipe into shiny pipe....

Hey CactusChip.... where are you in New Mexico? I live in Alameda (an Albuquerque suburb), right off 4th and Alameda Blvd.

-Taylor

Taylor

Wait until they see the machine taking form, then you'll get the lookers and the questions! :)

Joe suggested a half and half mix of glue and water in his mod's section here:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=283069&postcount=5

Shiny is good... :D
I used a lathe to clean my pipes, worked great. Just a suggestion, use a drop cloth to cover the machine and on the floor. The black that comes off is very fine and makes a pretty good mess.

Have fun!

Bob

Watered down glue works well on the edges of the MDF. Some other wood workers I know use drywall mud(haven't tried it)


My question is since everyone is smoothing out the pipe which isn't a bad idea... What are you doing to keep it from rusting. You could wax it like you do cast iron tops but that doesn't last long.

elcam84,

I sanded my pipes down several months ago, see no sign of rusting so far... knock on wood. :)

I believe some in the forum have mentioned some type of spray used on tablesaws and other equipment surfaces. Can't remember what it's called.
I would assume it would have to be designed not to collect the debris generated by cutting.

Bob

For table saws paste wax is the most common method to prevent rusting and lubricate the surface.

I have tried all the spray stuff out there and none of it works well.

Another recent wax used has been Billett made by mothers IIRC (car wax) Some have had good results with it but I haven't tried it.


I was thinking of sanding the rails down then painting them and then removing a strip of paint where the bearings ride. This is how table saw fence tubes are done (beismier).

I believe some in the forum have mentioned some type of spray used on tablesaws and other equipment surfaces. Can't remember what it's called.


I use Top Cote on my table saw. Never had a rust problem in the 12 years I've had it.
http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD/ref=sr_1_1/105-6218438-1111627?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1180884212&sr=1-1

TCGliderguy,

I live in Socorro. Not too far away.

I've been working on my machine for quite some time (as free time permits). Just started cleaning the pipes with paint remover an scotch brite. Unfortunately, they look like some huge mechanized puppy had been gnawing on them. I'm going to try to polish them up on a friend's wood lathe because it has a very long bed.

I use Top Cote on my table saw. Never had a rust problem in the 12 years I've had it.
http://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD/ref=sr_1_1/105-6218438-1111627?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1180884212&sr=1-1

Gerry,

That's it, I've been trying to remember what the spray was and hoped that someone would mention it.
Interesting reading the reviews, some good info about wax sealing in moisture, silicone getting on wood and so on.
Thanks for the link!

Bob

TCGliderguy
I live in Paradise Hills, Alb. I have a CNC converted mini mill and also a homebuilt cnc foam cutting machine, I have always wanted to build the cnc router. I have ordered a new table for my mill from www.cncbridges.com and am anxiously awaiting its arrival. Do you know what the web address is to order the parts kit that you have for your router?

Look forward to hearing from you, and good luck with your project!!

Walt

Hi Walt,

You can reach Joe at joecnc2006 at yahoo . com

He's a very helpful, very busy guy....... Check with him for current pricing and delivery times for a kit like mine.....

My successful adventure at building a CNC foam cutter really gave me the bug to build something that will cut wood, plastic, and carbon fiber....

One of these days I hope to stop building machines, and start building actual projects! :-)

-Taylor

I've got a dilemma.... that hopefully someone with an operating CNC router can help me with.

I goofed up, and managed to get two of the end panel pieces of the Joe's 2006 machine misaligned when I glued them together. (Actually... they slipped after gluing...)

Is there someone that could cut those two pieces for me (using Joe's files).

The pieces in question are the two laminated end panel pieces... the ones away from the stepper motor. They're approximately 12 x 36 inches...

I've tried to contact Joe to order more parts, but can't seem to get a reply from him. I guess he is just too busy....

You can contact me offline at taylor@soaringstuff.com if you think you can help with this. I'm happy to pay a fair price for these two parts.... Without those two parts, I have $750 worth of nicely cut paper weights here...

Thanks!

-Taylor

Hi Taylor,

Let me know if you don't hear from Joe2006. I will cut the parts for you. Just let me know exactly which parts you are referring to. (( I think I know- but just in case))

After Re-Reading your post - I think I understand whick pieces you are talking about. I think you mean the 2 glued together end pieces that hold the torsion box. Let me know which files you are talking about. If you don't hear from Joe2006 - I'd be happy to cut them for you. (( note: I also sent a note to your home email address. ))

Just pay me for the postage - I'd be happy to help a fellow CNC addict.

Note: On those end pieces -you definitely want to use the available through holes to put nuts and bolts for holding the pieces in alignment while clamping.
Also - add some additional holes for more bolts. When the glue has set - take them out - and when you assemble the machine - drill through the torsion box and install through nuts and bolts there for additional strength.


Keep at it - the build is a long process - but worth it when your machine is finally running and producing all sorts of cool stuff.

Joe

Talyor,

Thought I would chime in and say I am just a couple of miles from you right off of PA and Montgomery. Don't have my CNC yet so I can't help you out. Good luck with the build.

Nate

Hi Nate,

I live in Alameda...... I'm moving slowly on getting Joe's kit put together, but am hopeful to have it operating by Christmas.
Stay in touch.... maybe we can get our two machines together, and hope they have puppies! :-)

-TC

What diameter are the pipes used in the Joe's 2006 design?
Is he using the same diameter pipes on his Hybrid Router?
Thanks,:)
Dan

What diameter are the pipes used in the Joe's 2006 design?
Is he using the same diameter pipes on his Hybrid Router?
Thanks,:)
Dan

The z-axis is 3/4" O.D. drill rod.
The y-axis is 3/4" I.D. gas pipe (galvanized or black), 36".
The x-axis is 1" I.D. gas pipe, 60".

Dunno about the 4x4, lotsa folks are waiting to get a look at it..

Gary

Thanks for the info Gary!
Does anyone know what the actual tolerances are on the outside diameter (OD) of the 3/4"ID and 1" ID gas pipe used on the Joe's Router designs? Are the Joe's rollers preloaded against the pipes? If so, any estimates of how much force or displacement?
Thanks, in advance!
Dan

Gun Blue works well to help prevent rust on the black pipe. If you have galvanized, I don't think it will work. You probably don't need it on galvanized anyway.

Hi All,
I haven't been posting for a while but I have been working on my machine and it's nearly done.

Regarding galvanized pipes......I started with galvanized and sanded and polished until I got an almost mirror like shine. That was many weeks ago. For some reason, it almost looks like the dull galvanized appearance is coming back or some kind of film. It's certainly not rust but I cannot understand why a polished, un-used free standing pipe would tarnish or oxidize like that. Anyone have any ideas?

Joe

Probably the zinc is oxidizing.

Hi All,
I haven't been posting for a while but I have been working on my machine and it's nearly done.

Regarding galvanized pipes......I started with galvanized and sanded and polished until I got an almost mirror like shine. That was many weeks ago. For some reason, it almost looks like the dull galvanized appearance is coming back or some kind of film. It's certainly not rust but I cannot understand why a polished, un-used free standing pipe would tarnish or oxidize like that. Anyone have any ideas?

Joe

I just want to THANK CNC-Joe (Joe Comunale) publicly, for service above and beyond the call of duty. He answered my plea for someone to cut a couple of replacement parts, and followed through the process with many e-mails, lots of good advice, etc. The two end panel pieces that I screwed up arrived yesterday, and are a perfect match for the kit parts.

Thanks Joe! I hope I can do something to better re-pay you than just $$$$.

I'll be back to priming and painting this weekend... and will start sanding on some gas pipe!

-Taylor

You are very very welcome, Taylor. No problem on making the parts,and glad to help a fellow CNC-builder.

Just so people don't get the wrong idea, I only charged him the actual shipping and he threw in a few bucks on his own to cover the cost of the mdf. I cut the pieces (It only took about 15-20 minutes of cutting at slow speeds to cut each piece- or about 40 minutes total.) on my somewhat modified Joe2006, and removed the weight saving pockets, added additional bolt holes - to give it extra strength and rigidity. Hey- if we're going to build something, guys, let's build it strong --- or don't build it! I cut Taylor's pieces for cost - just because he's been waiting almost 3 months for these parts to finish his build. That's a long time for us CNC-addicts.

Once again, Taylor, its a pleasure to help a fellow cnc-er. Good luck on the rest of the build -and don't hesitate to contact me if you have some build questions.

CNC-Joe

Well.... I'm back on track. I got the priming and painting done. I can't say enough good things about BIN Primer ... and Rustoleum brand Silver "Hammered" finish paint. This is going to be a good looking machine.
I'm going to post a couple of more pictures here....The base frame parts went together well, although it took a fair bit of beating with a rubber mallet. I checked my 4' x 8' workbench top for being flat and straight... and then positioned the "egg-crate" on top of the 1/4" bottom skin. When everything was as flat and straight as possible (using cabinet makers corner clamps at the outside corners) I glued all of the joints with CA (cyanoacrylate) glue. Next step will be to cut 84 3/4" square wooden strips to be epoxied into each corner intersection of the "egg crate" structure.

Nice work, any reason you're adding "84" wooden strips in? Not sure I find that necessary and may be a lot of extra work for nothing.

Actually, it's not that much extra work (if you have a table saw....)

I cut all the 3/4" x 5 1/2" strips in about 20 minutes...... and epoxied them in place (secured with one brad from my air nailer)... in another 30 minutes.

It may be overkill, but I know that base unit will be as strong as a bridge when the epoxy cures.... and I will never have to worry about a glue joint coming loose....

-Taylor

Sounds good and I understand wanting rock solid results. Your x table will be strong as a rock. I just felt it might be a little over the top, but whatever floats your boat. The torsion box design itself is pretty slick as simple as it is and will be strong regardless if assembled properly with sufficient glue. Look forward to seeing your machine running :)

I think your comment about "sufficient glue" is what prompted me to add the fillet sticks in all the corners. The fit of the slots on Joe's kit is SO tight that there isn't room for more than a couple of glue molecules between the mating surfaces. Now I KNOW that nothing is going to come unglued.... except maybe me..... :-)

Very true, I felt the same way when I was assembling it. Also people forget how porous mdf is and that you have to more or less overdo it in order to provide enough glue for the joint to be very strong.

O.K.... I've got a question. I have a 17 page PDF document with instructions, and required parts list (written by the original Joe). Nowhere in the document is any mention of building the base eggcrate. Are there more instructions somewhere that I am missing?

My tech question at this point is.... Was the intention to run 1/4 x 20 allthread through all 8 of the 1/4" holes that run the length of the base section? They appear to be bored at the correct diameter for 1/4x20 to be a "thread fit" through the holes.

I considered putting washers and nuts in each bay........so that each cross member would be captured between two nuts, but quickly decided that assembling that would be a nightmare.

How about if I thread the all-thread through the holes, and then apply a glob of epoxy and micro-balloons at each intersection with a cross member?

Thanks!

-Taylor

http://www.vi01.com/cnc/machinepics/08.jpg

Couldn't find a photo of the end my table so I found this old photo of the gantry sides showing the same principle. You do not have to do this and it isn't required but it is highly recommended. The rods will act as tensioning rods and lock the torsion box in place to itself and to the ends of the top and bottom of the table. You should use 1/4 20 threaded rod, 1/4 20 nuts and lock washers. You don't have to go crazy either, just make sure it is tight. You should not have to put anything anywhere else inside the torsion box, just have the rod running through every hole. And as far as epoxy goes, I wouldn't glue them in place; 1 you dont need to and 2 if you ever want to disassemble the table for any reason it will be a mess taking it apart.

Remember joes manual covers pretty much everything but not the entire processes of each step. Refer to build logs here because they contain a wealth of photos. Joe's original one, jays, sparkys, davids, even mine; probably combined a few hundred images of just assembling the machine.

Thanks for the input......

About "Joe's Manual"..... is there something other than the 17 page "CNC Model 2006 R-2 Manual.pdf" ? There isn't a word about assembling the base egg-crate in that..... certainly nothing about all thread, assembly hardware, etc. ?

I have the distinct feeling that I am missing something.....

-Taylor

There are missing parts, sometimes it is a bit vague. Not sure it's rocket science though? You just put it together glue it and clamp it? I would do it in sections, a few ribs at a time depending on the clamps you have. I used a fast drying reliable glue called titebond and did it in 2-3 glue ups. Just make sure you have the ribs in the right side as the left side is different from the right due to the bearing mounts protruding from the gantry sides at different sizes. Other than that it's rather simple, no?

What in particular are you looking for? Photos? We have tons of those here.

http://vi01.com/cnc/08.jpg

Clamping the parts that need to be put together (too long to cut in one shot, maybe not on joes new hybrid)

http://vi01.com/cnc/04.jpg

http://vi01.com/cnc/13.jpg

Table assembled, glued and primed roughly on all ribs inside (not neccesary).

http://vi01.com/cnc/21.jpg

Old photo showing how the threaded rods go all the way through and pull everything together for that added strength. I'm missing a few that I add in later, this photo is really old from the build log.

Theres more photos and some people here documented more than I did. Just browse around, thats the way I built mine. Joe's manual is good but he did a lot of work, it's asking a lot for him to detail it down to everything on how to put it together after he has already designed so much. The usergroup really did the rest just showing their builds imo.

Thanks for the photos..... the problem with the CNCZone forum is that there is TOO MUCH information.....

I was just browsing, looking for build photos.... and got totallyl sidetracked on the Automatic Tool Changer thread...... WAY TOO COOL.... but probably a year off from what I need now...

I'm off to Lowe's to buy some all-thread....

Thanks!

-Taylor

I disagree.. you may as well make the torsion box as strong and as square as you possibly can. You'll never take it apart.. if you have to take it apart - you'll destroy it anyhow...

The more rigid and square that torsion box is - the better the base of the machine will be.

Anything you can put in there to make that thing stronger - is only going to help. If we're going to build it - let's build it strong.

Just my 0.015 cents worth

Thanks for the input......

About "Joe's Manual"..... is there something other than the 17 page "CNC Model 2006 R-2 Manual.pdf" ? There isn't a word about assembling the base egg-crate in that..... certainly nothing about all thread, assembly hardware, etc. ?

I have the distinct feeling that I am missing something.....

-Taylor


No you are not missing pages, the base I felt was pretty easy and straight forward and many log files to show the assembly, I did not intend to sell any plans or anything like that, but rather make kits for people who do not have the means to do so for them selves. I i did not expect the machine to have so much interest and sometimes trying to find information on what you need at the time you need it is hard, but we do have alot of people who have built it and can give alot of insite to the machine.

Joe

More progress..... I fabricated an "extension" for my Smithy lathe. I found that a pine 1x4 would just slide under the bed of the lathe, so I attached a five foot long piece with three wood screws into the riser deck that keeps the lathe up out of the coolant tray..... attached a perpendicular 1/4 to the portion that sticks out the end, and rigged up a sliding "H" shaped piece to support some rollers.

CNC-Joe Communale gave me an idea to use some skateboard bearings as rollers, and using some scrap aluminum channel, I rigged up a crude little roller assembly... with two bearings on the bottom, and one pivoted on an arm from above. I used a small bungee, intended to hold a tarp to a tent pole, to provide some tension on the upper roller. Voila! I've now got a 6' bed for my lathe.. Well, sort of...

After reading about the sanding and polishing process around here, I was pretty sure that I was in for a five hour nightmare. Nothing could be further from the truth. It took a LOT longer to build the lathe extension and rollers than it did to polish the gas pipe. (Maybe Lowe's just sold me gas pipe with wimpy paint?) Anyway... in about twenty minutes, I had all four of the 60 inch lengths sanded, and polished with 220 grit wet or dry. I may go back and polish some more, maybe even with finer grit, but I really don't think I will gain much. There are a few pits in the pipe surface, but I'm certainly not going to grind those down.... and they are so small that the bearing rollers should glide right over them.

A couple of comments.... If you are going to sand down your gas pipe with a lathe, either wrap the threads with four or five wraps of masking tape (as I did initially) ... or just leave the red plastic shipping caps on the threads when you tighten the pipe in the lathe chuck. Those tapered pipe threads don't allow much surface contact with the parallel jaws of the chuck, and the pipe tends to slip out. Having something with some "give", to tighten the jaws into makes the grip a lot more secure.

Using that "H" shaped piece that straddles the main rail of my wooden extension, will allow me to shim it up a bit when I start sanding the 3/4 inch diameter pipe.... allowing for the decreased diameter from the one inch pipe.

I laid a piece of bubble wrap across the lathe bed, just to catch the paint dust, etc.... and the troughs around the bubbles did a nice job of capturing all the junk.

Oh yes... the last picture is of the quart can of Rustoleum Hammered Silver paint. This stuff is the greatest! It takes about two quarts to paint everything.....but it is well worth it.

Onward!

-Taylor

More Progress! I got the one inch gas pipes polished, and blued (using swab on gun bluing stuff from the sporting goods store.) After washing off the bluing agent, I rubbed on a light coat of white lithium grease, and was ready to install the end panels on the machine.

Since my faithful assistant decided that she needed to get her nails done more than she needed to hold parts for me, I used bungee cords to hold the pipes in place, while I bolted on the end panels.

Lowe's didn't have any 6 foot 1/4 x 20 allthread (and I am fairly disgusted with the quality of the hardware that they sell anyway....) so I'm going online to order the rest of the hardware for the machine.

Next stop... the angle iron bearing supports!

-Taylor

Lowe's didn't have any 6 foot 1/4 x 20 allthread (and I am fairly disgusted with the quality of the hardware that they sell anyway....) so I'm going online to order the rest of the hardware for the machine.


-Taylor[/QUOTE]

I got my ¼” threaded rod at Home Depot in the electric department.

I don’t remember if Lowes has it there but it sure seems they should.

The only thing different is they are 10’ long. How this helps

Your machine is looking good keep up the good work

Rick

Yeah they sell it in electric near electrical struts. That's mainly where it's used in regular applications. Also if you're ordering hardware check out boltdepot.com. I and others used it and I plan to use it again for future builds. I won't ever buy hardware in stores again unless it's small stuff and I need little amounts. Cheaper and faster online.

Yes..... the only 1/4 x 20 x 2 1/2" hex head bolts Lowe's had were some grungy looking, galvanized things..... I went ahead and used them to hold the end plates together....

And the 1/4" lock washers they had were $.32 each...... Unbelievable!

I've read about BoltDepot.com here in several threads... and will be placing an order shortly.

Does anybody happen to have a link to that updated/revised hardware list that somebody put together here?

Thanks!

-Taylor

Does anybody happen to have a link to that updated/revised hardware list that somebody put together here?



I think this is what you are looking for.

Rick

That's the one! Thanks......

-Taylor

Well... I'm $70.00 poorer, after ordering all of the nuts and bolts, washers, lock washers, and U-bolts from www.boltdepot.com

If I didn't think he would giggle, I would kiss the guy who put together the Excel spreadsheet with all of the hardware required. Having the boltdepot.com part numbers made ordering that stuff a breeze. It would have been a nightmare to do that at the local fastener wholesaler.... and even worse, if I had to do it at Lowe's or equivalent.

Meanwhile, I have the Z-Axis box partially together. I joined one of the side panels, with the front panel, rear panel and the top and bottom... and have all of that secured with cabinet makers corner clamps. When the epoxy cures, I'll epoxy on the other side panel, and that box will be completed....

I got the 36", 3/4 inch diameter gas pipe sanded and polished. For whatever weird reason, the 3/4" stuff seems to have regularly placed "dings"... in a spiral pattern around the pipe... along most of its length.
I sanded pretty aggressively with my lathe set-up, and got the worst of the dings removed, but there are still some that are noticeable. Hopefully, I can find an orientation that minimizes the effect of these on the bearing rollers. The other thing I noticed is that the 3/4" pipe didn't take the bluing nearly as well as the 1" pipe. There must be some difference in the alloy of the steel that was used.... the 3/4" is a couple of shades lighter in color than the 1". Go figure.....

I got some decent 1/4" all thread locally, and with the help of my electric drill motor... and my wife (to guide the end of the all thread through the holes)... the all thread is installed in the base torsion box.

Things are starting to get more interesting..... I feel less like I am building a coffin, and more like I am building a machine... with real, live moving parts!

-TC

Tee-hee gigglefart, blush.

Gary

O.K. Gary.... Here's your big, cyber kiss.....

Smoooooooch!

That Excel list REALLY helps! Thanks for putting the effort into it......

I hope I can leave something around here that is equally helpful!

-Taylor

Ever Notice..........That there's no Hot Babes into this hobby????
(Sorry Gary)

There are women in this hobby, but they are usually the wives yelling at you from the top of the stairs that it's 12am and the kids have school tomorrow so shut up!

Yeah.... That's been the problem with R/C airplanes for 45 years....
No Groupies! :-(

-TC

Guys...that's what playboy.com is for

Vince

I'm making progress. Mike sent me the bearings for the axis slides, and I have the aluminum angle cut, drilled, and tapped. I'm just waiting for my hardware order to arrive from boltdepot.com.

So I am looking ahead to the Z axis assembly, and the HDPE parts that came in the kit don't quite make sense to me. I'm attaching a photo....

My understanding is that there are two "nut supports" for the Z axis.... one sits down in the bottom of the "U" shaped recess that is milled into the HDPE base plate... and the other sits up on the non-recessed portion of the plate. But the two Z axis nut plates are both 3 inches tall... and have their holes and nut recesses milled to the same dimension from each end. (The "Z" labels came on the parts, from Joe, in the kit).

Another problem is that nowhere in the kit is there any 1/2" thick HDPE. Everything is 3/4".... I'm assuming that the two support pieces, that get drilled and tapped, and inserted down into the 1/2" recesses.... are supposed to be 1/2 x 2 x 3 HDPE.... I can buy some HDPE from McMaster-Carr and cut these on my table saw easily enough, but I want to make sure that I'm not misunderstanding something.

The hole position in the nut supports is another issue....

Any thoughts?

-Taylor

If you dont have those two parts double check and email joe. He forgot a part from my kit and shipped it out promptly. There are a lot of parts in the kit, A TON. Joe's human, I can see how easy it would be to forget stuff. Also, I'm not sure how he is doing it now, but those are two z blocks. One is for the old style with an acme screw and the other is a new style with a pocket for the dumpster cnc antibacklash mounts. I'm assuming he cut you both so you could choose as many have upgraded to the new anti back lash stuff from dumpster cnc and the newer 2 start rods. Joe can confirm but I'm sure that's why you have two. And if you are still up in the air about it, go with the dumpster stuff and newer 2 start rods, they work beautifully; you will get significantly faster feedrates and no motor stalling. I ran mine before at 60IPM now I run it at 130IPM

Thanks...... now it is starting to make more sense. I'm definitely planning on using the 2 Start threaded rod, and the dumpster nuts....

So... If I am understanding what you are telling me, the attached drawing should show the "either/or" blocks that I do have... and the 3 missing blocks.

I'll drop Joe a private message, and point him towards this thread.....

Thanks for the help!

-Taylor

Ooops.... I sized that image a bit small.... Here's another stab at it!

-TC

You're missing 2 of the sides, not 3. The third one is just a smaller version of the acme nut one, but if you are going with the dumpster one you don't use that anymore since the dumpster one acts as both of those. Also why it's so great..

Hope that clears things up. I wish I had a photo of it. Will try to dig up a photo of that assembly that someone else has that used the backlash upgrades. I cut my own and assembled them very fast without taking a photo ;) since I was so excited to see how smooth they were.

Thanks BP!

I can get some 1/2" HDPE and cut those missing side braces......

I think I'm back in business again!

-Taylor

Ok heres a photo joe took and some info to follow..

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36786&d=1178389386

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=36788&d=1178389386

DumpsterCNC parts needed:

three each all 1/2"-8 ACME 2 Start (4 turns per inch)

http://www.dumpstercnc.com/leadnuts_acme.html
http://www.dumpstercnc.com/leadnuts_flanges.html
Add a 1-3/16" machined square flange with (4) .144 dia clearance holes.

http://www.dumpstercnc.com/thread_clamps.html

Joe

here's how I did it, Taylor. This really works:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=312010#post312010

The problem with just putting a nut against the bearing is that -it drags across the face of the bearing seal - creating drag and friction.

Really - these are the wrong bearings for this type of application - but they are cheap.

This is the advantage of the dumpster hardware, thread clamps and sorts. I never liked the double acme nut design but it was good for what it was, cheap and diy.

The UPS guy brought me my nut and bolt order.... from BoltDepot.com.

All 14 pounds of them! I've got say, I am really impressed with BoltDepot.com.
Everything seems to be top quality hardware, and each box and zip lock is neatly labeled with the contents. They're a class act!

And once again, THANKS to Gary for setting up the spreadsheets with all the required hardware. It made it SO MUCH easier to get what I needed....

-Taylor

Nice set of hardware. Boltdepot rocks, clean clear and CHEAP, but the quality of their metal in their hardware is great. I started out at home depot one night on joes build and was like screw this there has to be a better way. And there sure was.

>screw this there has to be a better way<

Amen! It's a pain just buying a couple of items in the hardware department at Lowe's or Home Depot.... Buying this box full would be awfull....

-Taylor

Things are coming together nicely..... I'll get some pictures posted, probably tomorrow. In the meantime, I am making up shopping lists....

I'd like to incorporate some T-slot track in the upper layer of the cutting deck.... but I'm wondering about how carried away to get with it.

I see that Rockler has T-slot track, intersections, and even neat little over-center clamps that work with it.

Here's a link to the Intersection page... the other stuff is linked in photos at the left...

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/findprod.cfm?sku=16417

Does anyone have any opinions to offer about how much T-Track to put down?

-Taylor

It is up to you and should be determined by the sizes of planned workpieces. If you never cut a part bigger than 3"x3", it doesn't make sense to put in track spaced 6" apart. Likewise, if you are doing big sheets, you can probably get away with 2-3 tracks total.

I would put the tracks running along the longer X axis and put in no more than 4-5 tracks.

This stuff looks interesting. I haven't used it.
http://www.woodpeck.com/supertrackapp.html

That Woodpecker track and clamp system does look interesting. It's also fairly pricey...

My first thought would be to do a hybrid track system.... Use two spans of the Woodpecker track across the X axis (in other words parallel to the Y axis) Used with the horizontal over center clamps, you could clamp panels for signs, plaques, etc.

Then run the less expensive Rockler track along the longer X axis.... for holding down thin sheet stock, etc. I'm assuming that Rockler's clamping bolts, etc. could be used in the Woodpecker track as well....

Thanks for the link!

-Taylor

I'm assuming that Rockler's clamping bolts, etc. could be used in the Woodpecker track as well....


Yes they can be used. The tracks are essentially T tracks so in theory you could also just take a router and carve T tracks into the wood.

On another note the Woodpecker track looks nice, but in a fixed table setting I think the Rockler with serve you much better.

Big progress today! I got the gantry assembled, and got the whole business up and rolling on the main X axis platform!

I promised pictures, so here's a few.... showing the HDPE pieces with the angle bracket bearing mounts in place, the U bolt assembly for the Z axis bearings, etc.

I needed to figure out a way to assemble this beast by myself.... and came up with an idea that worked really well. I got some 1/4 x 20 brass "wood inserts"... little gizzies with a woodscrew exterior, and a machine screw thread interior. I put them into the bottom end four holes in the bottom torsion box... This allowed me to run in the bolts that hold that assembly together.. without having to stand on my head to get the washers and nuts on the back side.

I assembled a big U shaped piece with one gantry side, the bottom torsion box, and the top Y axis torsion box. I was able to carry that out to where the main eggcrate frame was waiting (pretty easy, actually).... and slid it into approximate position. Then I guided the Z axis assembly over the upper Y axis box..... secured the pipes in place with a bungee cord, and was then able to "sneak up" on getting the remaining gantry side piece in place.

Once I had all of the bottom bolts in place, I went ahead and secure them with washers, lock washers, and nuts on the inside. Joe provided small openings to get your fingers through the bottom plate....with just enough room to turn an end wrench to tighten the nuts.

I used 1/4" fender washers on the lower holes (inside and out), and standard 1/4" washers on the upper holes. This is probably overkill, but I can live with the guilt of having overbuilt this thing! http://www.cnczone.com/forums/images/icons/icon12.gif

With all of the major pieces loosely in position, I was able to go around and tighten the various adjusting bolts until it was pretty much in operating shape. I still need to do a bit of adjusting on the tensioning bolts.... but I can now roll the X and Y axes back and forth, and make whining noises like a router. (Gee... if I only had my ex-wife back. She made whining noises like a router all the time...... )

I ordered the controller and electronics, and steppers this afternoon from Mike Beck (www.mikebeck.org). He builds up the HobbyCNC kits... and puts them into a nice enclosure, with power supply, cables and all the goodies pre-done. I built one of the HobbyCNC kits for my hotwire cutter, and it went well, but I'm just too impatient to deal with the kit assembly for this one... and Mike guarantees his work.

Now I've got to order the Dumpster CNC anti-backlash nuts, the Lovejoy couplers, and the 2 start all thread..... and hopefully make the transition from "power by Armstrong" to a real, motorized machine....

Stay tuned... film at 11!

-Taylor

Looks like a router to me!
Great work Taylor.
I hope mine will look similar by the end of the weekend. I have most of the major pieces glued, still need to do X.
I need to post some pictures.
I may yet beat you to the finish, my hobbyCNC kit is built and the motors wired, just a few more parts to glue and a lot of paint.
Did you see the thread with the removable aluminum "fences" set at a right angle?
Don't remember where it is, sorry.
I may add that, and I will use somebody's T track, but I haven't decided on Woodpecker or Rockler, or whaever. The Woodpecker is for 1/4" bolts and so are many others, but some use larger 5/16" ones. Probably overkill and besides I have a lifetime supply of 1/4" now. I guess I bought a few extra.

Yes... I know...... I put the Z axis carriage in backwards....

Not a big deal, considering that I am going to take it back apart anyway. Now that Joe has posted the drawings for the angle bearing supports where they can be found, I am going to remake mine.... the spacing on the threaded studs is bit too far apart, and the bearings are running on their edges, instead of their mid sections....

Back to work! :-)

Taylor

makesure you rotate the gantry 180deg.

O.K...... I made up some new angle bearing supports (with the correct spacing on the threaded studs)..... and turned the gantry around so it is facing the correct direction (and the lead screw holes line up underneath the bed).

I am really pleased with how smoothly the gantry tracks back and forth... it really is better than I had imagined (or feared....)

And since I had to disassemble and assemble the gantry section a couple of times, I am really glad that I incorporated the threaded wood inserts in the bottom gantry torsion box. That would have been a nightmare, working by myself, to get the nuts, washers, etc. started on the bolts. By using the threaded inserts, it's an easy thing to get a couple of the screws started, and then work my way between the top and bottom bolts to pull everything together.

I would encourage Joe to incorporate those threaded inserts into his drawings and instructions.... particularly since you can go ahead an put the washers, lockwashers, and nuts on the bolts after the thing is together....

Now I just have to wait patiently for the rest of the lead screw hardware, and the electronics and motors to arrive.....

-Taylor

The UPS guy brought me the big, long mailing tube from McMaster-Carr, with the 1/2 x 8 leadscrew stock inside..... It is really pretty stuff, with a nice, slick black finish. I had already pressed the 1/2 inch bearings into the HDPE bearing support blocks, so I immediately tried to slide one onto the lead screw. No Go!

I'd read in other build logs about how this was a problem... and how folks had chucked up the lead screws and ground them down a bit... with files, sandpaper, etc. There was no way in Hades that I was going to attack these pretty lead screws with a file, so I had to find another way.

I took a 1" diameter chunk of aluminum, chucked it up in my my lathe, and made a little "press fitting"..... that would be a press fit inside the opening in the HDPE bearing blocks, and would have a raised section that would press against the inner bearing race to keep it from rotating. I chucked up the press fitting in the lathe... pressed a bearing block onto it... and by applying a bit of pressure with my finger, I could spin the bearing in the lathe. Then, with my hand held Ryobi hand grinder ( a MUCH better tool than a Dremel, in my opinion)... and a small, cylindrical grinding stone... I was able to "tool post" grind the inner diameter of the bearings just a skoosh.... and they now slide nicely onto my shiny new lead screws!

If you don't have a lathe, you can probably figure a way to accomplish this with a hand drill and a Dremel tool as well... It just didn't make ANY sense to try to grind down the diameter of five foot long threaded rods... It took probably ten minutes to make the little aluminum fixture... and another ten minutes to grind all six bearing.......

Dumpster ABL nuts should be here tomorrow.....!!!!

Thats another way of accomplishing it, as far as turning down the leadscrew you only need to file it down the ends to the section the bearing sits on not the whole length of the leadscrew (only a few inches each side).

Joe

I considered just filing down the ends of the lead screws.... but decided that it was a good deal more "elegant" to be able to remove the lead screws from either end, without unmounting the bearing blocks, etc.... for adjusting, maintenance, or outright replacment....

I'm poised and ready to pounce on the UPS guy... who had better have my Dumpster CNC parts on his truck!

-Taylor
'

I thought I would have to file my screws. When they arrived, I tried a bearing and could not get it on. When I cut the Z and Y screw to lenght today, I checked again to see how much, and I was able to get the bearings on today. They are a tight fit, but they do fit.

BobF

I think it must of been jet lag....lol

I tried to buy the Hitachi router locally... no luck. So, I ordered one from Amazon.com (for $123.00... with free shipping). I realized that I have a small, trim router that I could adapt to fit in the Joe's 2006 mounts, so I turned some reduction rings out of scrap lexan, cut a split in the sides with my table saw, and was able to clamp the little router in place.

I was able to get it just low enough to use a 1/2" bottom cutting router bit to rout the top edges of all of the egg crate sections in the base to the same level below the router. I now FULLY appreciate the need for a good dust collection system. It was surprising how easily the fine dust would pile up on the gas pipe rails, and turn my smooth running machine into more of a "motocross" machine... as it jumped and clumped across the accumulated sawdust.

I prevailed, and now all of the edges that will support the top plate are exactly the same height. I went to Lowe's, found some 3/4" MDF (smashed the bejabbers out of my hand loading the heavy stuff onto a cart).... and had them rip it to a 24 1/2" width with their panel saw. I hadn't planned ahead that far, but found out that MDF comes in 49" widths... so I have a pretty much identical piece to use for the top working surface. (I'm going to get some of the Rockler track to use with T-nuts, etc. for hold downs....)

So, while I am waiting for my steppers and electronics to arrive, I will secure the top surface with epoxy and 1 1/2", countersunk wood screws. When I'm done, I should be able to run a dial indicator around under the router, and be pretty darn close to accurate.... all over the cutting surface...

Stay tuned for future developments... Film at 11:00!

-Taylor

P.S. - I forgot to mention... I rigged up a "sub stand" from some scrap lumber... to jack the whole machine up high enough to easily get underneath.... for access to the ABL nuts, bearing, etc. on the bottom gantry spreader....

I like that idea! Wish I had thought to route the tops of the braces before I glued in the top sheet. I will have to route the whole board now, if its off much.
Maybe this should go in the mods thread. What do you think, Joe?

I do have to qualify things a bit........ The router, mounted on the gantry, can't reach the area right under itself at the "head" end of the machine. As a result, I have a space there about 12 1/2" deep, by 24 1/2 inches wide that is about a quarter inch "taller" than the areas that I routed down to the same level.

I don't see this as a problem. I am going to put another 3/4 inch thick layer of MDF (with Rockler T-slot extrusions inset) on top of the "lower" section. So if I do wind up working on something really large, like a big wooden sign, etc.... it can still overhang the small, "dead" head area...... but I know that all of the "live" cutting area is perfectly parallel to the cutting plane of the router.

I'm going to use that same little router this morning... with a rounding over bit, to radius the edge where the taller area meets the lower area... just so that the sharp edge doesn't break off if it gets banged or scuffed.

Then I will mix up some epoxy (I buy the stuff in quarts and gallons from either West System, or Fiberglast), thicken it slightly with cabosil, and load up a horse syringe with the mixture... and glue down the top skin. I've already got the skin marked with drill points, where I'll place the 1 1/2", countersunk wood screws to hold it in place. Then I will go back and use wood filler over the screw heads, and sand it smooth when the filler dries.

Onward!

-Taylor

I got the top plates epoxied, and screwed down, countersunk the screws and spackled over them.....

After sanding off the excess, dried spackle, I clamped a dial indicator between the two tabs on the lower router mount.... and was pleased to find that there was only about .015" variation in the height of the cutting deck as I rolled the X and Y axes around the table. I don't really have a good way to measure the variation in thickness of MDF... but I suspect that there is probably .010" or more... just in the raw material.

I rounded the exposed edge of the "dead area" top plate with the small router, and rolled on two coats of the 50/50 wood glue and water "binder coat". The BIN primer is drying on the table now, and it will get it's final color coat.... Hurrah! No more painting!

Over the weekend, I'll install the lead screws, Dumpster nuts, bearings, etc.....

I'm close to armed and dangerous!

-TC

I got the top plates epoxied, and screwed down, countersunk the screws and spackled over them.....

After sanding off the excess, dried spackle, I clamped a dial indicator between the two tabs on the lower router mount.... and was pleased to find that there was only about .015" variation in the height of the cutting deck as I rolled the X and Y axes around the table. I don't really have a good way to measure the variation in thickness of MDF... but I suspect that there is probably .010" or more... just in the raw material.

I rounded the exposed edge of the "dead area" top plate with the small router, and rolled on two coats of the 50/50 wood glue and water "binder coat". The BIN primer is drying on the table now, and it will get it's final color coat.... Hurrah! No more painting!

Over the weekend, I'll install the lead screws, Dumpster nuts, bearings, etc.....

I'm close to armed and dangerous!

-TC

Not to bad at all, wonder what the torsion box ribs were at prior to milling them?

Joe

I realized that I can't really install the lead screws, ABL nuts, bearings, etc. until I get my hands on my stepper motors... as I need to drill and tap the motor mounts and assemble them, before I can bolt them to the machine.....

I also realized that I'll need some nuts to hold the tension springs on the lead screws. I've got 1/2 x 8 (2 start) Acme threaded rod.... Does such a thing as 1/2 x 8 (2 start) nuts exist? If they do, I sure can't find them anywhere....

Meanwhile, the Hitachi router arrived (what a beast!.... it's a heavy piece of equipment)... so I took a picture of it with the base/handle removed... and also a shot showing what it looks like installed on the machine.....

So close... and yet so far!

-Taylor

Hi Taylor,
Looking for nuts for your 1/2-8 2 start? Try this place.

>http://www.dumpstercnc.com/thread_clamps.html<

Called THREADED CLAMPS, kind of pricey for what it is, but if you can't make your own, what else can one do. Don't know where you find any metal type nuts for the acme.

Cheers
dewalt58

Hi Taylor,
I am using the dumpster parts on my machine (same as DeWalt58 posted above). They work great.
I also remember seeing a thread where someone made a tap with a section of rod. You will have some leftover if you order 2 6' sections.
Many recommend that the nut and rod be different materials. Most common seem to be plastic and bronze. If you're adventurious, you could try making a tap and cutting your own.

Its looking great, you are almost there and ready.

joe

Are you up and running yet? I started making some parts for mine on my mini mill, coming along but a whole lot more to cut. Maybe I could get you to cut some of the larger peices that I can not do on my little mill.

Walt

I REALLY wish I was able to cut parts for you.... I'm still waiting for my controller and stepper motors to arrive from Mike Beck. Unfortunately, his wife had emergency cancer surgery right before Thanksgiving... which put his production process into a tail spin. I'm sure that he will get the components to me shortly, but in the meantime, I am still pushing the three axes around manually... and making lots of whining noises like a router.....

On the more positive side of things... this message is being written from the clubhouse at our time-share condo in Princeville, Kauai, Hawaii..... I may not come back home!

-Taylor

Must be nice!! Well I will keep working on the small parts and maybe in the meantime you will get your controller. Have a good Vacation!!

Walt

Ho Ho Ho..... the UPS guy brought me a great, Christmas Eve surprise. My controller box, stepper motors, cables, and limit switches arrived from Mike Beck. The packaging job that he does is amazing... double boxed, with styrofoam peanuts between the boxes. The stepper motor shafts are protected with styrofoam blocks, and then wrapped in bubble wrap. The new "Modular" cables are ready to plug and play (that's something like 72 separate connections that have to be made on the mating male and female plugs....)
This "ready to run" package really is a bargain.... complete with the Keling 286 inch/ounce steppers.

Lord willing, and the creek don't rise... I should have things moving around under their own power on my machine by New Years!

Merry Christmas to all of you!

-Taylor

Can't wait to see your machine up and running! have a great Christmas!!

Walt

Just checking in to see how things are going for you. Hope all is well, Let us know! Post some pics!!

Walt

Hi Walt,

Thanks for asking..... I've got everything electrical and mechanical that I need to complete the machine here. Unfortunately, I got my priorities out of whack, and have been working on some deadline projects, instead of working on the machine. Of course, when I get paid, then I can order the VCarve software, etc..... and should be cutting chips like crazy.

Speaking of progress, did you ever get your "Bridge Mill" components...(I'm sure that's not quite the right name, but you'll know what I am talking about....)

Stay warm!

-Taylor

No still waiting, I spoke with the guy yesterday and he swears I will get it soon maybe the first of Febuary or so. I hope so!! I did order myself a new lathe today, so if you need any lathe work done let me know. I ordered a 11x27 Precision Matthews. It should be here next week if not sooner. I ordered it this morning, and by noon I had a tracking #. Just a few minutes ago I tracked it and it says expected delivery this Friday. That would be awesome as I would have the whole weekend to set it up and play with it.

Anyway talk to you soon, and let me know if you need any lathe work done.

Walt

Walt,

Thanks for the offer. I've got a Smity combination machine, that takes care of most of my machining needs. As soon as I get the Joe's 2006 up and running, I want to build some sort of a CNC mill... (hence my interest in that kit that you ordered...)

Also on the list is a digital readout system for the Smithy.... My goal for 2008 is to become LESS of an "eyeball" machinist, and to start doing things by the numbers.

Stay warm! (Although Good Morning America, this morning... told the world that New Mexico and Arizona weren't affected by the "Siberian Express" cold spell that is freezing the rest of the country. Gee.... I guess all that ice in the dog's water bowl must have been put there by Tastee Freeze... :-)

You are more than welcome to come check out my cnc'd mill it works pretty good, just a really small work envelope. Hopefull I will get the replacement table soon and not be so limited. I am still learning a lot! It would be good to meet someone with similar interest's maybe we could learn from one another.

Walt

Hi Walt,

That would be great... I'd like to see your mill, etc...

Drop me an e-mail at taylor@soaringstuff.com, and we can work out the details of getting together....

Thanks!

-Taylor

After way too long (got my priorities mixed up again, and was distracted with work stuff..... :-( ....

The Super Tech USB CamPod and software arrived, so I was out of excuses. I plugged in the stepper motors and extension cables on my Mike Beck / HobbyCNC controller... plugged the USB cable between the computer and the CamPod, and plugged the controller parallel cable into the CamPod.... and voila! ... almost. I did have to call Dennis at Super-Tech, and he guided me through the process of installing the USB driver. Then is was VOILA!.... and I sat there like a dummy listening to the three, unmounted stepper motors whine, whir, and sing, as they thought they were cutting out the Angel sample file that comes with the SuperTech software.

So....Everything electronic and computer related is working the way it should. Now I can mount the lead screws and motors, and configure the software for the Joe's 2006 machine..... and I should be totally armed and dangerous. Oh yes... I still have to wire up all of the limit switches that came in the kit from Mike Beck....

Progress!

-Taylor

Taylor,
I know exactly what you mean. I must have run my steppers for a total of several hours doing nothing but warming the air. Yes it is a stepper symphony!

I realized that I really needed to move the Joe's 2006 machine from the garage (where I did most of the assembly) into my workshop... where it is heated and air conditioned. But I also realized that I had to do some MAJOR rearranging, if I had a hope of getting the big machine into the shop.

So most of Friday afternoon... and all of today was spent moving, sorting, rearranging, shifting, and moving some more..... capped off by actually moving this big beast of a machine... by myself. I pushed the outer edges of the envelope, and engineered up a way to get the machine into the shop.... and it almost worked as planned. Bottom line is that I am nursing some very sore muscles, but the machine is resting comfortably in its new home, on top of a cabinet I happened to have that looks like it was built for the job. Hurrah!

So now, I have some questions for the crowd..... like what works best for mounting the monitor, computer, control box, etc. ? Unfortunately, I'm going to have to use a CRT monitor, as the budget is pretty well shot for buying a flat panel monitor. I'm thinking of building some sort of a hanging mount for the monitor, and hang it from the ceiling. Obviously, the controller box is going to have to go very close to the end of the machine (so the stepper cables will reach to where they need to go.) I'll probably doing a hinged "cable support" (two skinny boards with a hinge in the middle). I'm also thinking about building a small "mouse platform" near one end of the machine for the keyboard and mouse.....

Does anybody have any pictures of a monitor/keyboard/CPU/controller installation that they're proud of? I'm open to any and all suggestions....

-Taylor "Where's the Tylenol"

Goodness Godness Agnes....... This thing is moving under it's own power!

I spent way too long building a roll around cart, that houses the computer CPU, 19" CRT monitor, speakers, etc...... and finally got everything hooked up and working. Naturally, I had some initial alignment problems, but now all three axes are running around as expected, and I have the SuperCam XP software pretty well configured.

I spent a couple of hours fabricating mounts for the limit switches... and now realize that I am dumb as a stump about the Home switches. What should the relationship be (in terms of position) between the Home switches and the limit switches?.... and how do you mount them so that the positions are different?
(I'm assuming that as the machine travels towards 'Home" in each axis...
that it trips the Home switch before it reaches the "Limit" switch.)

Can somebody educate me about this?

Thanks!

-Taylor

P.S. - I'll get some pictures of the computer cart, and the machine in its final resting place shortly....

Taylor,
You can use the same switch for home and limit on any given axis. Thats what I do. I have 6 switches, one at each end of each axis. 3 of them serve as both limit and home. Home on my machine is the lower left corner and Z at the top.

Well, I ran out of excuses..... the corrugated plastic tubing arrived (for the cable runs), the SuperCamXP software was doing what it was supposed to do, and I got all the limit and home switches installed and wired (but not hooked up yet.)

I found a Vee router bit, installed it in the Hitachi router... fired everything up, and told it to cut. I don't have any kind of sacrficial table top or hold downs yet, so I took the OSHA approved route, and hand held the piece of MDF down on the table top. By the time it got done cutting, my arms were trembling quite a bit, but that may have been from excitement as much as fatigue.

The sample floral design that comes with SuperCamXP looked pretty good, but fairly naked, so I left the piece of MDF where it sat... went into the software interface, and told it to fit some text into a box that I drew. I told it to cut, and voila... I had text. But it still needed something... so I went back into the software and drew a rectangle around the design. This time, I told it to cut in two passes, and go to .060 " depth, instead of the .030" that I cut the floral design to....

Wow! It's finally a cutting machine. Of course, I still have to rig a sacrificial table top and hold downs, and figure out something for dust removal....and make some nice end fittings for the corrugated cable tubing (instead of the jury rigged cable-tie set-up that I have now.

When I get the shop cleaned up a bit, I'll take some pictures of the finished installation. In the meantime, Thank You to Joe Cantrill (the Joe in Joe's 2006), Joe Communale, Dennis Bohlke at Super-Tech.com, Mike Beck at Rural Routers (www.mikebeck.org)... and all of you guys here on the Joe's forum for the help, guidance, and psychiatric counseling that got me through this project to this point....

Gotta go clean up the shop!

-Taylor

Way to go!
Glad to see you are cutting.

Very glad you got the machine going, cut looks nice and smooth.

Joe

O.K.... I admit it. I've been having too much fun actually RUNNING my machine to spend time posting here.....

I finally got the shop sort of cleaned up, and got some pictures taken. You'll see my ultra-high tech computer/monitor stand (constructed from 3/4 inch schedule 40 PVC pipe... and bailing wire. Yes... real bailing wire. I ran a double strand diagonally across most of the sides and back... stuck a screwdriver between the strands, and twisted until tight. That stiffened things up nicely!) A coat of rattle can paint, and it doesn't look too bad. I wanted something that was quite "open" , so that I can blow the dust out with an air hose. The monitor will actually swivel, although I haven't felt the need to move it since I put the monitor into its cradle. The "desktop" for the keyboard and mouse is a piece of white shelving from Lowe's. The big advantage of this self-contained cart for me, is that I can roll it between my CNC foam cutter, the CNC router, and the CNC mill that I haven't built yet.

I found a 10 foot length of 1 1/2 inch diameter corrugated plastic hose (intended for a shop vacuum), that I canabilized into my cable carrier. I used 6 feet on the long axis, and 4 feet on the cross axis. I cut some brackets for each end of the hose, and used silicone construction adhesive (in a caulking gun) to secure the hose to the brackets. I put a second coat on , after the first coat dried... and smoothed it with a putty knife. I still need to put a coat of the silver hammerton paint onto the adhesive, and it shouldn't look TOO bad.

I cut strips of MDF for a sacrificial table top, and cut dadoes into the bottom with my table saw. I made up a simple drilling fixture to get the holes placed identically in the ends of the MDF strips, and used brass, threaded wood inserts, screwed into holes in the "real" table top surface of the torsion box. Now, if I do have an "oops" and cut into the MDF strips, I have a reproducible way to make replacements.

Woodcraft had some nice T-bolts, in two different lengths that slide in the dadoes. Next CNC project is to cut some hold down pieces, that will secure with wing nuts. Temporarily, I am just using the T-bolts, with washers and nuts to hold things down.

In the shots of the computer cart, you can see the speakers that fit nicely (wedged between the monitor and the cart tubing), and the USB CamPod adapter box (from Super-Tech.com) that connects the computer to the input of the HobbyCNC stepper controller. I am really liking the SuperCam software interface. It gives me instant gratification, and the ability to draw simple projects right on the machine.... but I can still import G-Code, DXF, or HPGL drawings from a CAD program. The shot of the computer screen shows my 4-up drawing of the hose support brackets. SuperCam lets me select any or all of the graphic elements, and cut them in any order that I choose.

I also drew up a 1 inch grid pattern, and cut that into the sacrificial table strips... using a small Vee-bit router, set to cut to .020. That gives me some handy grid lines to use for aligning and measuring on the tabletop.

I've got the home switches set so that the machine returns to the "Zero-Zero" position on the grid.....

Next project is to cut a dust collector shroud, and get it hooked up to a small shop vacuum. (If that doesn't work out, I'll buy a big dust collector... but space is getting so scarce that I may have to put the dust collector in YOUR garage.... :-)

I'll be back with some "pretty parts" shortly.... For those of you building your Joe's machines.. or just planning. Keep the faith! It is all really worth it! It took me the best part of 10 months to get mine done.... but I am so glad that I did it!

-Taylor

I forgot that you can only post six pictures in a batch... so here's the rest!