Hello,
I'm having a little trouble trying to decide on which is the best lathe for the dollar and is ready to go right out of the box (no modifying)?


1. Sherline

http://www.sherlinedirect.com/merchant.cfm?pid=1&step=4

2. Grizzly

http://grizzly.com/products/G8688

3. Seig

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93212

Anybody?

4. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44859
look for the 15% Cupon online from time to time and special order from a HF store. I got mine for $468 with no shipping charge. Dont take my word for it as I havent got the time yet. Look here ->
http://www.annisquamgranite.com/8x12ReviewPg1.htm
http://cnczone.com/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&id=6

I really don't know anything about these lathes. What I can tell you is you get what you pay for, and these lathes are cheep. I would look for a good quality used lathe.

I really don't know anything about these lathes. What I can tell you is you get what you pay for, and these lathes are cheep. I would look for a good quality used lathe.
Oh here we go again.... China / low cost = junk, but 100 year old USA lathe that is worn out and too heavy to move without a forklift = Good. Have you ever turned a 8x12 on and taken a cut - you might be suprised?? Will it work for everything - no - but niether will a craiglist special. I had one - luckly I didnt loose too much when I sold it to the scrap steel yard.

I'm really leaning towards the grizzly, but wasn't sure if this is the right one to go with. I've heard nothing but good things about it, but haven't heard anything from people that actually use it everyday.

This machine is going to be for smaller work, handles, prototype cylinder work, etc.. I'll mostly be turning aluminum (6061), polymer, nylon. Now I've also heard nothing but great stuff about the sherline, but wasn't sure if it could handle 6061 aluminum.


Anyone else? Monday is my deadline.

I’ve look at all three lathes, online of course. The sherline looks like a lathe that people use to turn pen blanks not really for metal (I have one or something similar) I would scratch that one. The other two may use an electronic speed control. This makes it easy and fast to reduce speed, but you loose tork. At low speeds it may stall on you.
I bought a $500 grizzly milling machine about a year ago and it broke. The drive gears where made of nylon. It’s been over a month and I am still waiting for the parts.
I have bought tools from harbor freight in the past and have had it arrived DOA. I am just bitter on inexpensive tools.
I own an old atlas lathe that works quite well. I had to replace the bearings and tune it up but every thing on it is metal.
What ever you decide let use know how it works.

I’ve look at all three lathes, online of course. The sherline looks like a lathe that people use to turn pen blanks not really for metal (I have one or something similar) I would scratch that one. The other two may use an electronic speed control. This makes it easy and fast to reduce speed, but you loose tork. At low speeds it may stall on you.
I bought a $500 grizzly milling machine about a year ago and it broke. The drive gears where made of nylon. It’s been over a month and I am still waiting for the parts.
I have bought tools from harbor freight in the past and have had it arrived DOA. I am just bitter on inexpensive tools.
I own an old atlas lathe that works quite well. I had to replace the bearings and tune it up but every thing on it is metal.
What ever you decide let use know how it works.

Sounds like your making your own troubles - to order is a click away
Here look here for your stonger gears and other cool items
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2909&category=1070498684
Or maybe this for your mill - http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2560
This mini lathe has them from the seller
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82710

Harbor Freight stuff - yes I have had troubles too, but when that happened I turned right around and drove the 5 minutes back to the store returns are no problem. HF buys items from many companies so if you do your reseach and make smart choices it can turn out just as good or better as buying from other stores

So what do you guys think. Is the grizzly cheaply made just like the HF seig lathe?

So what do you guys think. Is the grizzly cheaply made just like the HF seig lathe?

You do realize they are both Seig made machines with mostly the same parts correct?

They look almost the same, but had no idea they were. Well I guess that about sums it up, I'll go for the HF for now.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/

This should help you a little look at the versions page - It explains the 7x stuff fairly well. Its blurbs about the 8x12/14 is not even close to correct though.

If you do get a 7x... http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/products.php?category=1

I was just looking thru LMS for extra parts and cutting tools. Now that I see the metal gear replacement, I'm really liking that! Thanks guys for you help, much appreciated Don!!

I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

Thanks don, I’ve checked out the web site and I did find something cool. They have a belt drive conversion kit that eliminates those plastic gears. Could just be the ticket but I'm not sure if it is worth sinking another $119 into this machine.

I'm sure lots of people (including myself) would take that no good x2 mill for proper "disposal" :banana:

I own the X1, and it's been great. However some of the things on it are cheap (gib plates, lead screw and nut), but it gets the job done. I converted it to CNC, and as expected it works great.

So I've searched around a little bit more, and found the brand shop fox. Any comments on this one, it also has a very nice price tag?

https://toolsandmore.us/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1542

So I've searched around a little bit more, and found the brand shop fox. Any comments on this one, it also has a very nice price tag?

https://toolsandmore.us/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1542


---> http://www.siegind.com/Products/blackred_lathe.htm

Just a different paint job, huh? That's crazy if this is true! Alright tomorrow is the day!

Just a different paint job, huh? That's crazy if this is true!
Why ? You already know that the C2 can be had in every color of the rainbow plus. So why not the C1. I imagine if you call seig with a large order they would paint and label up a fake brand for you too :)

Twocik,

I would second Don's recommendation that you consider the HF 8x12. It is a much more substantial machine from everything I've seen that the 7x series.

If it comes down to the HF 7x10 or the Grizzly 7x12, the Grizzly 7x12 actually has a 4" longer bed than the HF 7x10. Even though I would look at the 8x12, I have seen a lot of nice work produced on the small Siegs.

ShopFox is owned by the same man that owns Grizzly. It is his "retail" brand. He imports it and it is sold through other retailers. I own both HF and Grizzly equipment. My impression is that the stuff I bought with the Grizzly brand was better finished and better appointed than the comparable item from HF, but not less expensive.

If I were buying another lathe today, I would look at Grizzly's 10x22 G0602.

Alan

I think of the 8x12 as a "Mini". I cant imagine using something smaller. It only been a few weeks and I'm already wishing for just a bit bigger :)

For $468 (special ordered to store using 15% off internet coupon) It would cost close to double to step up significantly and for that price the 8x is cheaper than some 7x lathes. So I think it will be just fine for now.

Here is a website showing a 8x next to a 7x. Its the lathemaster version of the 8x. There is some minor differences but mostly its the same.
http://thms.tedatum.com/lathemaster.html

The 8x is bigger in some ways than the 9x that harbor freight sells on the floor of its stores.

Alright so I went with the HF 7 x 10, and so far so good. I didn't have much time to setup the rest of it today, but tomorrow is another day. It worked out great, the machine went on sale today for 369.00, not 439.00 ( I couldn't of picked a better day/time to buy it). :) I also purchased the extended warranty for 50.00 dollars, and some turning tools. I walked out of there with a warranty, tools, and a smile. Well here's the great thing about this lathe. The manager said word for word " you could drop it outside right after you walk out of here, spill water on it, throw it, whatever and we'll replace it for free no questions asked! You can't beat that, especially since this it my first lathe. I'll keep you guys posted.

Ok so I've setup everything. It's a pretty solid machine for the dollar value. I played around with it for a few hours last night and noticed the dovetail plates were a little sticky/gritty and oily. I unscrewed the plates and cleaned them up. There was paint chips from the machines body in the dovetail plates, I'm guessing it was never cleaned after it was made. I used some white lithium grease to smooth them out. Everything seems to work very well, except the feeding control hand wheel. I released the automatic feed handle, and set it to manual. it's very tight and hard to move/turn in manual mode.

Is there something I should loosen or grease? :)

I bought a used lathe/mill combo. It's a Central Machinery Type:L-HO Series:129 with a date of 1993 stamped on it. It's missing the tool post and I am having trouble finding one. The bolt sticking up from the compound slide is 16mm diameter and 62mm hieght. can some one help me find one or maby a cheep quick change. thanks, kyle

Thanks don, I’ve checked out the web site and I did find something cool. They have a belt drive conversion kit that eliminates those plastic gears. Could just be the ticket but I'm not sure if it is worth sinking another $119 into this machine.

I bought the belt drive conversion for the mini mill and it works great. It improved the machine tremendously. I wouldn't use this machine without it.
Thanks again donF

One of the problems with all these brand machines is they are made to LOOK good and shiny on all the exposed surfaces! That is, if you were to dismantle them and look closely at the sliding mechanisms, they look like they were done with a chain saw! This results in uneven & rapid wear as you use it! The only solution would be to re-machine the mating parts, if you are lucky to have a shop large enough to do it!

I agree with other posts, that an old used machine is built 1000% better, has standard off the shelf parts, and will be solid enough for real precision work!

If you buy the newer chinese machines, you will regret it!
I had bought a 9x20 JET lathe, and in one year its spindle was worn out! Along with all the plastic gears! So I gave it away! and bought a bigger, better machine! A Birmingham 13x30

Widgit

One of the problems with all these brand machines is they are made to LOOK good and shiny on all the exposed surfaces! That is, if you were to dismantle them and look closely at the sliding mechanisms, they look like they were done with a chain saw! This results in uneven & rapid wear as you use it! The only solution would be to re-machine the mating parts, if you are lucky to have a shop large enough to do it!

I agree with other posts, that an old used machine is built 1000% better, has standard off the shelf parts, and will be solid enough for real precision work!

If you buy the newer chinese machines, you will regret it!
I had bought a 9x20 JET lathe, and in one year its spindle was worn out! Along with all the plastic gears! So I gave it away! and bought a bigger, better machine! A Birmingham 13x30

Widgit

I am using this machine with understanding that it will never be good enough for any really precise work. I have to adjust the ways allot more often than I really want and I can’t get the slop out of it without having it so tight that things don’t move. I use an old Bridgeport that’s been around the block too many times and it still out performs the x2, but For small work and quick setups, the x2 is fine.

One of the problems with all these brand machines is they are made to LOOK good and shiny on all the exposed surfaces! That is, if you were to dismantle them and look closely at the sliding mechanisms, they look like they were done with a chain saw! This results in uneven & rapid wear as you use it! The only solution would be to re-machine the mating parts, if you are lucky to have a shop large enough to do it!

I agree with other posts, that an old used machine is built 1000% better, has standard off the shelf parts, and will be solid enough for real precision work!

If you buy the newer chinese machines, you will regret it!
I had bought a 9x20 JET lathe, and in one year its spindle was worn out! Along with all the plastic gears! So I gave it away! and bought a bigger, better machine! A Birmingham 13x30

Widgit


Hmm - Sorry for your poor machine choice - I never looked that close at the 9x20 because it had some reviews with people pushing the 8x12 instead.... All I can say is my 8x 12/14 has been apart for cleaning and has none of the problems you speak of. There are several people I have talked to with the 8x12 lathe and some have had the machine for several years and are very happy :)

Being that I was an MR (Machine Repairman) in the USN, I have had many a machine apart for service and repairs! When the cheaper Enco lathes came on the market, I was horrified by the lack of precision it its components, this trend has been in exsistance ever sence!

The old addage "You get what you pay for" is the truth!
However, after scrapping out the 9x20 Jet lathe, I did buy another Chinese machine. But this one passed my critical inspection! It's a Birmingham 13x40 gap bed, gear head lathe. All for a thousand more than I paid for the Jet!

The work that I have been producing was way more than the Jet could ever handle, infact I had to convert my New lathe to an 8-station turret just to keep up! Now I can make all my parts in little time with extreeme accuracy!

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33813

Widgit

Update guys, I went with the 9 x 20. I brought back the 7 x 10 lathe to HF (with no problems at all), and bought the 9 x 20 at a discount price. I just thought for the work I'm about to start, this fits my needs best. Plus it came with a 4" chuck, steady rest, follow rest, tools & metal tool box. I can't be any happier, well we will see. :wee:

Anyone with any good tips, links or advice?


I've read a bunch of stuff on the internet already, and found a few things that were very useful with the setup. I found that on my lathe for mounting it to the workbench, I'm suppose to only tighten the chucks side and slightly tighten the other, so that I don't warp the ways.


My lathe came with two cast iron mounting blocks, that have three holes in them. I've googled the 9 x 20 lathe and found a bunch of pictures, but didn't see anyone really using them. Do I need them or do they cause any problems?




I'm mounting it on a bench I made out of sandy plywood, that seems to be very stable, but you never know. I'm about 180 pounds and the table didn't really move at all. I'm about to add a few brackets/braces to beef it up. Maybe a thicker top then what I have now 3/4". What do you guys think (metal, marble, wood top)?

Twocik,

My Grizzly didn't come with the cast iron blocks and the quick change gear lever won't disengage easily in the last position. I would recommend using the blocks. Once I get my cnc conversion done they will be irrelevant.

There is a yahoo group for the 9x20 owners. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe/

Steve Bedair has a lot of great info on modifications and enhancements to the 9x20. http://bedair.org/9x20.html

My website gives directions and dimensions for building the 4-bolt clamp and some other modifications.

Alan

Thanks for the info., after a friend and I decide to lift this 240 pounds of love onto my work table, I knew right away why they included them.

Any other info. on getting started or helpful tips would be greatly appreciated!

I have had mine about 3 weeks now I aquired it second hand, the 4 bolt mod is done, but I did change the carriage clamp out with a bushing and adjustable handle this makes life alot easier. Today I am going to make the cross feed handle larger and investigate chanign the cross feed screw out. I would get a quick change tool post and new 4 jaw chuck as suggested on steve bedairs site also. Don't rely on carbide tooling learn to use hss if you have not already I find it better in my usage then carbide almost 2 to 1.

chris

Where did you buy your turning tools? Mcmaster/MSC/LMS

If you haven't already done the deed, this is what I went with. It's more money, but it's so much more machine. The on-line price is considerably higher than what it sells for. Call Matt, and see what he can do for you.