Hi all I have started a Joes CNC model I final have time to post pictures of my build.
But before I start I have to say hats off to Joe for sharing his idea and files with all of us. Beasuse if he didn't all of us wouldn't have build this machine.
So I have to say Thank You Joe.

Well this is my CNC is just about to ready to make saw dust with a good weekend coming up I just waiting on some parts.
So it is up to all of you on how fast that I post pictures I can post them slow or fast.
But I will start with a pile of parts. It is hard to believe that you start with a pile of parts and it can make what every your mind can dream up.

Rick

Hi all I have started a Joes CNC model I final have time to post pictures of my build.
But before I start I have to say hats off to Joe for sharing his idea and files with all of us. Beasuse if he didn't all of us wouldn't have build this machine.
So I have to say Thank You Joe.

Well this is my CNC is just about to ready to make saw dust with a good weekend coming up I just waiting on some parts.
So it is up to all of you on how fast that I post pictures I can post them slow or fast.
But I will start with a pile of parts. It is hard to believe that you start with a pile of parts and it can make what every your mind can dream up.

Rick


Welcome to the club Rick!

Looks like you're ready to go! If it's up to us, then I say...
Take your time with your build, but post your pictures fast! :D
We all like pictures and lots of them!

Have a great time! Look forward to watching your progress! :)

Looks good so far. I see the Long axis ribs for the X-Axis is made slightly different from mine, i have the splices further apart from each other stagered at the furthest ends, I did not want to chance of any boxing with having the splices towards the center, but if you use 1/2" MDF as the skins you should be alright.

One more question what material are the Bearing blocks and anti-backlash nuts? they have a blue center.

Look forward to seeing more on the build.

Joe

Looks good so far. I see the Long axis ribs for the X-Axis is made slightly different from mine, i have the splices further apart from each other stagered at the furthest ends, I did not want to chance of any boxing with having the splices towards the center, but if you use 1/2" MDF as the skins you should be alright.

One more question what material are the Bearing blocks and anti-backlash nuts? they have a blue center.

Look forward to seeing more on the build.

Joe

Hi Joe well as for the long ribs that was a big as we could make them on the router that was used to make them. On the bottom I used 1/4 masonite glued and pined nailed. I will do the same to the top and add a piece of 3/4 particle board screwed down so I don't think it will move.

As for the material used for the bearing block I don't see any blue :)
just kinding LOL. I don't know for sure it is very close to the HDPE and is used to make signs so if it can take the weather up here I think it will do just fine the Letterguy can answer that question he is the one that cut the parts for me.

Here are a few pictures of a jig that I made for the bearings slides so I could used a router with a 1/4" bit.

Let me ask all of you if you had one thing to tell a newbie not to do that you may have done while you were building your CNC machine what would that be?
I would say when you make your bearing slides take your time double check make sure you are 100% right because if your off 1/16" they will not work.

Rick

rdhharm,

It looks like you blasted the bearing slides with some kind of media (referring to PIC #3 above). They look real nice. What media did you use? It doesn't look like they were blasted with sand (big NO, NO on that one from OSHA).


Keep up the good work and thanks for joining in on CNCzone!

Hay, info on the osha deal with that?

Bearing slides look good. You can be off a bit and they will still work, but the more exact you are with them, the less adjustments you will need to make. If you make them perfect to the drawings you literally just have to tighten them enough. If you are like me butchering them with woodworking bits, (lol) you have to play with tightening them in pairs and what have you.

Hay, info on the osha deal with that?

http://www.osha.gov/dcsp/ote/trng-materials/silicosis/si_gi.html

http://www.osha.gov/Silicosis_Conference/nr961031.htm

http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_id=9734&p_table=STANDARDS

I used to work at a company that used 'real sand' for blasting/finishing cast aluminum parts. Even though we were using a ventilated blasting cabinet the sand dust (free silica) was everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Our insurance agent and an OSHA representative showed up within 2 weeks of each other, both men STRONGLY RECOMMENDED (hint, hint, nudge, nudge) that we switch to a different media before their follow up visit and final reports. They both suggested switching to walnut shells, recycled buttons (plastic), aluminum oxide and several other media. After trying various media samples we settled on, and switched to, aluminum oxide.

Be careful if you're using sand, it, along with the potential for silicosis, is some nasty stuff. I hope you find the above links informative.

rdhharm,

It looks like you blasted the bearing slides with some kind of media (referring to PIC #3 above). They look real nice. What media did you use? It doesn't look like they were blasted with sand (big NO, NO on that one from OSHA).


Keep up the good work and thanks for joining in on CNCzone!


No they weren't sand blasted I used my Orbit Sander. I know all about silica we use products everday that have silica sand in them.

Rick

Hay, info on the osha deal with that?

Bearing slides look good. You can be off a bit and they will still work, but the more exact you are with them, the less adjustments you will need to make. If you make them perfect to the drawings you literally just have to tighten them enough. If you are like me butchering them with woodworking bits, (lol) you have to play with tightening them in pairs and what have you.


Yes you are right but if they are off in opposite corners that is a lot to be off
and they will not ride on the pipe square. I found out the hard way I had to remake some.

Rick

I always use a templete and center punch the holes.

Here are some pictures of how I glued my X & Y torsion box ribs together I made a jig with some scrap pieces of plywood and a piece of particle board to keep them square. They came out right on the money for square.


Rick

Let me ask all of you if you had one thing to tell a newbie not to do that you may have done while you were building your CNC machine what would that be?


Mini HVLP Spray Gun!!!! I spent two weekends painting my machine using spray cans from Lowes. I lost count of how many cans of primer and white paint I used. I've since purchased a mini HLVP spray gun and have to say it's worth every penny and the results are much better! I would venture to say that using the HVLP gun I could have painted everything in a matter of hours versus days, and when I say it's worth every penny, I don't mean to make it sound expensive. I purchased a two gun kit from Grizzly for less money than I paid for all the cans of paint!

Well their you have it, my one thing! Oh did I mention I hate to paint... :D

Mini HVLP Spray Gun!!!! I spent two weekends painting my machine using spray cans from Lowes. I lost count of how many cans of primer and white paint I used. I've since purchased a mini HLVP spray gun and have to say it's worth every penny and the results are much better! I would venture to say that using the HVLP gun I could have painted everything in a matter of hours versus days, and when I say it's worth every penny, I don't mean to make it sound expensive. I purchased a two gun kit from Grizzly for less money than I paid for all the cans of paint!

Well their you have it, my one thing! Oh did I mention I hate to paint... :D

Sparky is right. If you plan it right you can paint everything at once, and if you do get a spray gun. I used cans too because it was so cold at the time. (rushed the stuff into my shop) But I didn't want to mess with thinning to the right viscosity and then cleaning the gun afterwards.

ccsparky:
I am with you on the painting thing.
I bought a gravity feed gun from harbor freight for 10.00 it did a great job but it still was not that easy. Very time I went to paint it would seem to get cold here but I guess that is way this is a hobby that we all seem to love and wouldn't change.

I have a question what home and or limit switch would be good to use I have searched the web way to many to pick from.

Rick

I have a question what home and or limit switch would be good to use I have searched the web way to many to pick from.

Rick

Rick,
Check out David's log here:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26792&page=20
Pictures on post 240. I believe he tells which ones he's using on another page. Also I believe garcwell has purchased a bulk of switchs and is selling them to members. Joe, may have them also, however if not, ask him I'm sure he has info on anything you need! Several others have switches installed but I cannot recall who. Have read so many logs that it's hard to keep track of who has what :)

Bob

Rick,
...Also I believe garcwell has purchased a bulk of switchs and is selling them to members. ...Bob

The ones in David's pics look like they're at least an inch long. The ones I picked up on ebay are smaller; just over 3/4". I don't know that they won't work, but I would have preferred something that at least looks more robust. The terminals are too small to take faston lugs; wires will have to be soldered. And it looks like it would need to be 2-56 screws for mounting. It's already wired with a 20" lead and connector, but I don't know yet if it's wired NC or NO - would be easy to change - the other terminal is there. jspencer has some of them to try on his machine - haven't heard yet how that's worked out.

If someone else wanted to try these, I could sell one more dozen before I'm down to the stock I want to keep - call it $10 inc shipping.

There was another set of 50 on ebay but someone picked them up with the Buy-it-now. Ah, as I suspected, same seller has put out another bundle of 50: http://cgi.ebay.com/Micro-switches-with-Roller-Lever-switch-250V-5A-50ea_W0QQitemZ230104814908QQcategoryZ50916QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
He may have hundreds/thousands of them.

Gary

Hi all some more pictures these are of a little mod that I did to the gantry side to help with flex. I used 3/8 rerod and than filled with bondo before paint.
I am so close to being done I can't wait to make saw dust. just waiting on a few parts for the controller they should be hear the first of the week. :)

Rick

Allendale? Really? My Daughter lives there!

Eastsider here! Looks good!

Jim

Hi all some more pictures these are of a little mod that I did to the gantry side to help with flex. I used 3/8 rerod and than filled with bondo before paint.
I am so close to being done I can't wait to make saw dust. just waiting on a few parts for the controller they should be hear the first of the week. :)

Rick

How is the rebar attached to the side of the gantry, to keep it from flexing itself you may need to epoxy it the entire length, I know just standard 1/2" rebar in designed to keep concrete from pulling not flexing. the rebar itself will bend some what, you may want to think about angle iron.

Joe

Allendale? Really? My Daughter lives there!

Eastsider here! Looks good!

Jim

She lives hear that is good. She isn't one of the several thousands that are here for about 9 months and leave (GVSU students) (nuts)

Well here is the amost finished machine. You will see that I have not cut the leadscrew yet because I will have to take it apart some what to get it out of my basement I will use my cordless with a socket to turn to leadscrew. :)

Rick

Rick,

Her address is actually Walker, but it's right on the edge. She's is and has been a student, but she loves it there and has made it her home.

The pics are great! Nice work! I'm hoping to see it cutting soon!

Jim

Hey,
Looking good there cousin! Just had time to check out the thread. Still looking for the handle for you. Maybe today when I get caught up a bit.

The material with the blue core in the photos tha Joe was asking about is King Color Core. Made by King Plastics. Nearly the same properties as HDPE. Comes in solid colors as King Color, and used on boats as King Starboard for decking on high end boats. Cost is higher than HDPE, unless you are like me and have some around left over, and rdhharm is your cousin so..........

The color core is great to make signs with, very tough stuff, and lasts many many years.

Oh, Cuz, ready for some black pvc yet? Have some left over in black and white, been saving the scrap for you.
Mark

Hey,
Looking good there cousin! Just had time to check out the thread. Still looking for the handle for you. Maybe today when I get caught up a bit.

The material with the blue core in the photos tha Joe was asking about is King Color Core. Made by King Plastics. Nearly the same properties as HDPE. Comes in solid colors as King Color, and used on boats as King Starboard for decking on high end boats. Cost is higher than HDPE, unless you are like me and have some around left over, and rdhharm is your cousin so..........

The color core is great to make signs with, very tough stuff, and lasts many many years.

Oh, Cuz, ready for some black pvc yet? Have some left over in black and white, been saving the scrap for you.
Mark


Hey, Mark how are you? Glad to see you here since I can not get you to answer voice mail LOL!!!!

Sure I am ready for for the pvc when can you bring it LOL!!!

Rick

Well my machine now has a brain. I have a little bit of tuning to do just to make sure that the software and the machine are on the same page.

A few picture of my controller. The first pic is the way the found that helped me keep the parts in order so I did not solder the wrong part it the wrong place on the board it worked except for two parts. So I had to remove them and put them on the board in their right homes to make the board work right go figure. The rest of the pic are of the work in process to where it is now. The next thing to do is the home and limit switches.

Getting there I guess I will be making saw dust very soon.

Rick

Very nice setup, I like the diamond plate toolbox.

Joe

Very nice setup, I like the diamond plate toolbox.

Joe

Thanks, Joe
The space at the top is for a piece of fillter material that can be cut to size it looks like padding to help with dust control.

Rick

The diamond plate is very cool!

Can't wait to see it cutting. I'm going to be in the area in a few weeks, maybe we can chat?

Jim

The diamond plate is very cool!

Can't wait to see it cutting. I'm going to be in the area in a few weeks, maybe we can chat?

Jim

Sure just PM me and we can exchange numbers and would be glad to show you my machine.

Rick

Hey, Mark how are you? Glad to see you here since I can not get you to answer voice mail LOL!!!!

Sure I am ready for for the pvc when can you bring it LOL!!!

Rick

Hey, I answer all the important calls! LOL.
Let me know what you need. I will see that you get it.
Pics look very good! You always seem to do a great job on all your projects.
Should be obvious to everyone that sees your posts.
Mark

Rick,

Your machine looks great! I also like the use fo the diamond plate, pretty fancy! :)

Figure you'll be cutting this weekend?

Bob

Rick,

Your machine looks great! I also like the use fo the diamond plate, pretty fancy! :)

Figure you'll be cutting this weekend?

Bob

Thanks, Bob with any luck I sure hope so, so much to do with so little time I will not turn it on until I am 100% sure that it is right and I will not hurt someone.


Joe, I have a question I believe that you are using Mach3 with hobby CNC board can you tell me where your setting are for your stepper motors in the Mach3 config section (motor tuning). Steps per inch, Velocity, Acceleration I have mine where I think they should be but I would like to check with the pro since this is all new to me and I am on a learning curve. Steps is easy with the auto config on the setup screen but the other would really help.

Thanks, Rick

I use 16,000 steps, vel.= 80 and accel.= 20

steps per = 200steps x 10tpi x (microstepping) i am using 1/8 step but i see no difference really between 1/2 1/4 and 1/8.

Joe

Thanks, Joe as always you are Johnny on the spot.

Thanks, Rick

I posted these on PhillyCyberJoe build log so I though I would put them in mine also.This is how I turned my pipes to shine them up.


Rick

Holy $%^&! Rick, you are a god!

I've been scratching my head on how to get a 60" pipe in my smithy!

Jim

I posted these on PhillyCyberJoe build log so I though I would put them in mine also.This is how I turned my pipes to shine them up.
Rick

Well when I actually get around to getting my machine built (only have 2 pieces cut) I will definitely remember to use this setup to clean up my rails.

PS are you going to make try and make some parts for the T-Maxx I see in the first pic?

Well when I actually get around to getting my machine built (only have 2 pieces cut) I will definitely remember to use this setup to clean up my rails.

PS are you going to make try and make some parts for the T-Maxx I see in the first pic?

You know I didn't think of that, I may have look into maybe trying that someday just don't tell my son that this machine can cut part for the T-Maxx or that is all he will be trying to do.

Rick

You know I didn't think of that, I may have look into maybe trying that someday just don't tell my son that this machine can cut part for the T-Maxx or that is all he will be trying to do.

Rick

You know that isn't what I'll be doing...

But I do need a new chair :)

Well I found time to work on my machine I told my self that it will be cutting something by the end of the weekend I think I am there.
I have the home & limit switches installed and wired into the controller. And programmed in Mach3 and all work great but been new to this it took me a lot longer than I though it would and a lot of time watching Mach3 videos on setup of homing & limits.

The pictures are of how and where I installed my switches.
1st is the Z homing switch.
2nd is how I got my Z to trip the switch.
3rd is Y homing & limit and how I got it to trip and where I installed them.

Rick

Well I found time to work on my machine I told my self that it will be cutting something by the end of the weekend I think I am there.
I have the home & limit switches installed and wired into the controller. And programmed in Mach3 and all work great but been new to this it took me a lot longer than I though it would and a lot of time watching Mach3 videos on setup of homing & limits.

The pictures are of how and where I installed my switches.
1st is the Z homing switch.
2nd is how I got my Z to trip the switch.
3rd is Y homing & limit and how I got it to trip and where I installed them.

Rick

Rick,

Looking good! So we should be seeing some cutting going on real soon! :)
The blue adds a nice touch to the color scheme.

One thing, on the gantry side supports it looks like you have two splits, one above the right screw and one below the left screw in the third picture????

Bob

Bob,

MDF has its advantages and as you see its disadvantages. One of them is that it spits easily if you don't predrill it before driving screws in. I had the same problem with mine but ended up predrilling the rest with a really tiny drill bit since the screws for the proxy switches are so small.

I was able to make saw dust today with a test sign the first one wasn’t so good Y lost some steps but I tweaked it and the machine ran just perfect I could watch it run all day.
I just what to say thank you to Joe & Mark and everyone on this forum because of all of you I was able to make this machine. I have read every build log that was one of Joes builds and it has helped me so much in my build.


Rick

Bob,

MDF has its advantages and as you see its disadvantages. One of them is that it spits easily if you don't predrill it before driving screws in. I had the same problem with mine but ended up predrilling the rest with a really tiny drill bit since the screws for the proxy switches are so small.


I did the same with the rest of them. I am not to worried beause I glued and screwed all my MDF together shouldn't have a problem.

Rick

Glad to see some cutting on the machine, Your build looks real good. How Does it run now?

I hope you have a long and fun time with the CNC Machine, like i have, Been running almost 1.5 yr. now with my original machine.

Look forward to seeing some more work done, as do others :)

Joe

Glad to see some cutting on the machine, Your build looks real good. How Does it run now?

I hope you have a long and fun time with the CNC Machine, like i have, Been running almost 1.5 yr. now with my original machine.

Look forward to seeing some more work done, as do others :)

Joe

Thanks, Joe
The machine runs great I don’t have it running to fast because I want more accuracy than fast. This CNC for me is a hobby machine and not a production machine it allows me to make things that I wouldn’t be able to do. I look at if the machine losses steps because I want to run it as fast as I can I have just lost time and money so I guess slower in my case is better IMO. My cousin Mark has a commercial machine I think he has had it for 10 years or more he uses it for his business and I believe that he only runs his feed rate at max of 54.


Rick

Yes, i have also noticed alot of people with comercial machine, when i called around for some quotes on different things they mentioned the feed rates that is used, and it is slower than i am running. to i just cut it myself.

Joe

We made the big move my son and I moved my machine from the basement to the garage yesterday its new home for now. We took the gantry off and moved it in two pieces well three if you count the stand. The only problem that I have is the Z will not home to the switch it will only move what the offset is that I have set when it hits the home switch I can not seem to find where my problem is in Mach3 it worked before I moved its just frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I did a test cut with it in its new home I think it went well and the machine preformed very good I know the sign is not perfect but not bad for someone learning new software and a new hobby. The sign is for a buddy that calls his pole barn the Hazel Inn.

1st picture is the idea that my son can up with on how to hold the pipes which I though was a very good one. I have not seen it so I though I would share. Yes Nick I am giving you credit
2nd is the sign hot off the machine.
3rd is a quick coat of paint and some clear lacquer.

Rick

We made the big move my son and I moved my machine from the basement to the garage yesterday its new home for now. We took the gantry off and moved it in two pieces well three if you count the stand. The only problem that I have is the Z will not home to the switch it will only move what the offset is that I have set when it hits the home switch I can not seem to find where my problem is in Mach3 it worked before I moved its just frustrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I did a test cut with it in its new home I think it went well and the machine preformed very good I know the sign is not perfect but not bad for someone learning new software and a new hobby. The sign is for a buddy that calls his pole barn the Hazel Inn.

1st picture is the idea that my son can up with on how to hold the pipes which I though was a very good one. I have not seen it so I though I would share. Yes Nick I am giving you credit
2nd is the sign hot off the machine.
3rd is a quick coat of paint and some clear lacquer.

Rick

Rick,
The sign looks excellent! Your buddy should be very happy with that!
Bob

I second the sign, looks very good.

Did you use V-CarvePro? what technique did you use?
Cutting, preping and painting.


Joe

I second the sign, looks very good.

Did you use V-CarvePro? what technique did you use?
Cutting, preping and painting.


Joe

Thanks guys
Joe yes I did use V-Carve pro what a great program their is so much you can do with it I am learning everytime I use it. I found the code on vectric site and changed the size and letters to what I wanted and made the tool path for Mach3.
prep I don't know what there is to say but I used 3/4 plywood
painting I just painted the whole sign and then sanded off the letters and sprayed with lacquer.

Rick

Hey Cuz!
The sign looks great! I didn't figure you for competition!LOL.
I'm glad you are having a great time, and listening to Nick's advice. Someone needs to look after the old guy.
PVC is being cut, and I will send it down.

Thanks Mark ya he comes up with a good one every now and than but I didn't say that LOL!!!! No competition here Mark just learning how to use the software the best way that I know free signs.

CNC Joe sorry I didn't get to your request about how I turned my pipes but I will try tonight to post some pictures.

Rick

CNC Joe you asked about how I turned my pipes. This jig was made for a one time use
for me just to clean my pipes it is pretty simple just some pieces of 2x4 with a hole drilled in the center of the up right pieces and two cut on a 45 and a piece at the bottom to make a A-frame as you can see in the pictures. I used a drill with high torque and low speed. The lower speed helped to control the wobble because the pipes maybe round the fittings are not cast that round so what I did was played with the fitting until the wobble was as good it could be. The sand paper I used was 50, 100, 120, 220 & 400 grit and the final thing was a metal polish that really put a shine on the pipes.


1st & 2nd picture is fitting use to connected the pipes to the A-frames
3rd is the fitting taken a part to see the fittings, nuts, washers and 3/8 bolt
4th is the A-frame
5th everything put together as used to turn the pipes

If anyone has questions please ask before using.

Rick

Well I played with software this weekend and made this sign for a buddy wife we have a on going thing to see who can find smiley faces lets see if she can beat this one. He said she is going to come up with something I told him I can make it a lot bigger I think I got her good.

Rick

Well I played with software this weekend and made this sign for a buddy wife we have a on going thing to see who can find smiley faces lets see if she can beat this one. He said she is going to come up with something I told him I can make it a lot bigger I think I got her good.

Rick

Nice looking sign Rick!

How are you painting the sign? Are you using paint mask?
I get a kick out of the pipe jig, very nice!

Bob

Nice looking sign Rick!

How are you painting the sign? Are you using paint mask?
I get a kick out of the pipe jig, very nice!

Bob

Bob I used black spray paint for the grooves and the rest was painted by hand I think I am going to find paint mask and give it a try. The jig did what I needed it to do polish the pipes.

Rick

I did some tinkering today on my machine. I was trying to do some inlays and things weren’t going that good my machine was losing steps. So I made bearing blocks for the Y & X axis. I remember somewhere someone did the same but I didn’t see how the keep the bearing in place so I used a piece of 1/8 x 2” aluminum that I had left from the heat sink on the controller. All I can say is HOLY COW what a difference the bearing block made it got rid of 95% of what every you would like to call it whip, whoble or backlash on the X axis and 100% on the Y axis. I ran the same job again I can’t believe how different it ran the machine ran so smooth.


Rick

Rick, great work, that sounds great! Have any video of it running?

Sorry Brian but my video camera is broking.
Did you every get the vibration fixed on Z carriage?
Mine had a little vibration in it and when my Z carriage got close to the gantry end I would hear a clinking noise I think the noise was the ACME nut hitting the bearing IMO. So what I did yesterday after I installed the new bearing block was to leave the lead screw out from the Z carriage side about 10 to 12 inches and push the carriage by hand and the lead screw wasn’t centered on the bearing at both ends. I used a end mill in a drill to make the holes little bigger until the lead screw was centered in the bearing. I did this on both sides than ran a G code without the router running all I could hear is the stepper motors humming, music to mine ears no more clicking and no more vibration.

Rick

Vibration no, it is still present. I've tried a lot of things but now willing to try this new 2 start 1/2 8 rod that people are using and the dumpster stuff. I hope this will solve some things. I'm perfectly happy with only going 70IPM I just want to be able to do it safely and without any major vibration.

Just make sure that the lead screws are lined up with the bearings.

Rick

Attached picture is a sign that I made after the new bearing blocks that I made this past weekend. What a difference it made in how the machine runs. The sign is for the same gentlemen I made to pub sign for he doesn’t know his age but he is 66 but still thinks he is 20.

Rick

Attached picture is a sign that I made after the new bearing blocks that I made this past weekend. What a difference it made in how the machine runs. The sign is for the same gentlemen I made to pub sign for he doesn’t know his age but he is 66 but still thinks he is 20.

Rick

Howdy Rick,

Great job with the bearing blocks!
The sign looks good, but you might want to check the spelling "Mrs Proprirtor".
Looks like you have 4 r's. Or maybe it's my 49 almost 50 year old eyes thinking they are 20... :D

Bob

Howdy Rick,

Great job with the bearing blocks!
The sign looks good, but you might want to check the spelling "Mrs Proprirtor".
Looks like you have 4 r's. Or maybe it's my 49 almost 50 year old eyes thinking they are 20... :D

Bob

Thanks Bob
Thats what happens when you get it a hurry. LOL

Rick

Awesome sign, are you using vcarvepro?

The sign looks good, I take it the machine is running good for you.

Joe

Awesome sign, are you using vcarvepro?

Yes Sir I am it is a awesome piece of software.

Rick

The sign looks good, I take it the machine is running good for you.

Joe

Hi Joe yes it is running very good now the carving put the machine through a very good test.

Rick

I did some practicing this weekend on how to do an inlay. It took some time but this is the end result not to bad for the first time. I build this machine because like the looks of inlays but I don’t have the time or patience to try to do them by hand maybe someday when I am old I will try by hand.

Rick

Not bad for 1st try, just make sure you have a new and sharp bit to do it, the smaller the bit the better i think.

Joe

Not bad for 1st try, just make sure you have a new and sharp bit to do it, the smaller the bit the better i think.

Joe

I agree Joe sharp bits are a must. But I used only one bit for the inlay I found on Vectric site in the tips and tricks forum how to do this (A simple way to make inlays) makes things easier.

Rick

Good job Rick!

How do you guys get the nice tight inside corner cuts? Are you having to file them out or is their a secret to it?

Thanks,

Bob

Good job Rick!

How do you guys get the nice tight inside corner cuts? Are you having to file them out or is their a secret to it?

Thanks,

Bob

Bob no filing I used just one bit a 60 V-bit the guys on Vectric site came up with the process you cut a pocket and than cut one upside down. I have attached the PDF file on the process if you have any question to cut the learning curve feel free to ask.

Rick

Bob no filing I used just one bit a 60 V-bit the guys on Vectric site came up with the process you cut a pocket and than cut one upside down. I have attached the PDF file on the process if you have any question to cut the learning curve feel free to ask.

Rick

Thanks Rick,

That's pretty cool! I'll give that a try one of these days, and if I have questions I'll give you a shout :)

Bob

Thanks RD - I'll probably do that next time ((( if I don't have the big lathe available at work ))). No wonder they came out looking so good - you did a lot of work with all the various grits of sandpaper. Nice work!

I did some tinkering this weekend I did realize how far out of square my machine was until I mortised hinges on a box that I made. So I squared it and I milled the table down it had about a 1/8” crown in the center. I also put strip of PVC on the table and milled that down flat also. I made a grid pattern on the PVC so I can use the offset in Mach3. I can put my work piece on the grid and the router should find it not more moving by hand to the starting point.

Rick

I did some tinkering this weekend I did realize how far out of square my machine was until I mortised hinges on a box that I made. So I squared it and I milled the table down it had about a 1/8” crown in the center. I also put strip of PVC on the table and milled that down flat also. I made a grid pattern on the PVC so I can use the offset in Mach3. I can put my work piece on the grid and the router should find it not more moving by hand to the starting point.

Rick

Looks good!
What bit did you use to mill the table and PVC?

I see your router is wearing it's hearing protection... :)

Thanks, Bob

Looks good!
What bit did you use to mill the table and PVC?

I see your router is wearing it's hearing protection... :)

Thanks, Bob

Thanks Bob I used a Freud 1-1/4" Mortising bit the biggest I could find locally I don’t think I will go any bigger for fear of the bit wobbling.
Also the PVC is the cutting area of my machine you can also use double face tape to hold down your project on the PVC it works great. Also when the surface get wore you can mill down and you have a new table and when the PVC gets to thin just replace with new.
Oh the router likes the ear muffs LOL.
No I just put it there so I can find them as much as I like to watch the router work I would like to be able the hear when I am your age LOL!!
Just kinding

Rick

Pictures are of a jig I had a machine shop make for me to use to set the height of the work piece. So I can set the height and go from where I zero the machine with out having to jog it to the work piece.

Rick

Rick,

Very funny, young man ;) I missed that crack about my age!
Thanks for the info on the bit! Great idea with the jig!
Are you manually adding the work location to your g-code?

Bob

Rick,

Very funny, young man ;) I missed that crack about my age!
Thanks for the info on the bit! Great idea with the jig!
Are you manually adding the work location to your g-code?

Bob

Very funny, young man ;) I missed that crack about my age!
I almost got that one by the old guy!!! just kidding You know I maybe just as old as you but I will never tell LOL!!!

Thanks for the info on the bit!

Your Welcome Bob

Are you manually adding the work location to your g-code?
Yes in the offset page. Example if I was to use Fixture 2 (G55) with the grid that I made on the table if I put the work piece on X-0 and Y-2 it will find that location on the table and go to cutting.

Rick

Bob sorry it took me so long to answer your questions but I have been redoing showers for a friend but I have some time today so here it goes.
The bits that I used were 1/16, 1/8, 1/4 up spiral, 1 ¼ mortising & 60 degree V bit. The 1/16 up spiral was used to pocket & cut the letters. 1/8 up spiral was used to drill peg holes to fit golf tees and to make the blocks that hold the nut & bolt and to pocket the holes used for the nut and bolt blocks. 1/4 up spiral to pocket for cards, pegs, center of the base where the playing board fits and to cut the playing board and base from the blanks. The 11/4 mortising bit for the rough cut in the center of the base where the playing board fits. The V-bit to carve the lines, skunk lines and to detail the outside edge of the playing board.
As for finish I sprayed sanding sealer and 10 to 15 coats of clear lacquer. I hope this answers your questions if you have any that I missed please ask.

Rick

Very nice Rick!

Thanks for the info, it's always nice to see crative work, pick up a tip or two on how it was done! That is a very nice looking piece!

Bob

Howdy Rick

Thanks for the board info,It looks great. When I get better I would like to give that a try.
I was wondering where did you get the PVC for your table top.I realy like the Idea of a grid. also a vacuum clamp system . Maybe could use PVC if thick enough.

Thank

Howdy Rick

Thanks for the board info,It looks great. When I get better I would like to give that a try.
I was wondering where did you get the PVC for your table top.I realy like the Idea of a grid. also a vacuum clamp system . Maybe could use PVC if thick enough.

Thank

Thanks, guys
I got my PVC from a local sign supplier Wensco it comes in 2mm to 13 mm. Kent I have seen your work I think you can do it now and you will do just fine.

Rick

http://www.wensco.com/Products/BrowseResults.aspx?CatID=706&Parent=9|2222|69|706

Rick,

Thanks for the PVC info and the vote of confidence.I will give it a shot soon, I have yet to cut on real wood just playing with MDF. thanks agin Kent

Rick,

Thanks for the PVC info and the vote of confidence.I will give it a shot soon, I have yet to cut on real wood just playing with MDF. thanks agin Kent


Kent that is where I started also with MDF to learn the software made some fun signs for friends than I graduated to real wood it is amazing what you can do with this machine the mind is the limit. I have yet to play with V-carve 4.0
One thing Kent I forgot to tell you is stick the PVC down to the table with double face tape so you can replace it when it is bad and worn out

Rick

This is a cribbage board I made for a co-workers father in-law

I think it is safe to post here before he get it I hope.

I have more gifts when I get time to down size the files I will post.

Rick

Wow very nice Rick . think maybe I should learn the game so I can make a board :)


keep up the good work Kent

Wow very nice Rick . think maybe I should learn the game so I can make a board :)


keep up the good work Kent


Thanks Kent the game is not hard my dad taught my sisters and I when we were young to help us learn our math skills

Rick

These are the jewelry boxes that I made for my nieces

The boxes are Hard Maple the name inlays are Purple Heart.

Rick

Very nice results, I take it you are using V-Carve Pro, I know people would be interested in seeing the proccess of how you did it.

Joe

Very nice results, I take it you are using V-Carve Pro, I know people would be interested in seeing the proccess of how you did it.

Joe

Hi Joe thanks but I could not have done it with out your machine design.

Yes I have all of Vectrics software they are the best.

I do not know how to tell the proccess with out going into long boring details but I will try. The short story I just did the pocket of the names and offset the pocket vector and ran a profile on the outside of that line (for the life of me I can not remember) I think the offset was (.024") for a 1/8" bit but do not qoute me right now I will have to check.

Rick

Wow Rick, That is very nice and Joe is right we are interested on how you did it :)

Kent

Wow Rick, That is very nice and Joe is right we are interested on how you did it :)

Kent

Thanks Kent

So let me guess you would like to see the VCarve file YES

Rick

Wow Rick, That is very nice and Joe is right we are interested on how you did it :)

Kent

Here you go guys I think these are the right files I have them on two computers one in the house where I do all the programming design work and the other in the garage. But these files came from the computer that controls my machine (if it does not work do not blame me) but what I did was run a test pattern and just keep off setting until I got the right one.

The first file called Paige is where I did the layout work until I got it right and than I copied the offset and nested the letter on the second file.

The second file called letter cutout is where I nested all the letter on a single piece of wood for the cutting.

Hope this helps

Rick

Thanks for the files Rick Most kind of you .

Kent

A Few more cribbage boards that I have done lately.
The 3rd picture was made for a friend who has ALS.


1st is made form Black Walnut with Hard Maple inlay
2nd is Red Oak with Black Walnut inlay
3rd is Cherry with Hard Maple Golfer

Rick

WOW, very nice looking.

Thanks Joe I could not have done it with you and Vectric software.
I am looking forward to building the 4x4 hybird to see what it can do

Rick

Here you go guys I think these are the right files I have them on two computers one in the house where I do all the programming design work and the other in the garage. But these files came from the computer that controls my machine (if it does not work do not blame me) but what I did was run a test pattern and just keep off setting until I got the right one.

The first file called Paige is where I did the layout work until I got it right and than I copied the offset and nested the letter on the second file.

The second file called letter cutout is where I nested all the letter on a single piece of wood for the cutting.

Hope this helps

Rick

Rick,
I just downloaded these and have been playing with them.
Can you tell me what font you used? Is it Monotype Corsiva? Thats the closest match I can find, but still not exactly right.
If this is the one you used, did you adjust the letters some how?

Thanks

Bob your are right on the font the only thing I did was use bold.
I believe maybe what you are seeing is some of the letters may have cut different for the inlays to the pockets that is because the 1/8" bit when cutting on the outside has more room to cut I just cut them off by hand to fit. I hope this answers your question.

Rick

How is everyone
Attached is a cribbage board that I did for a friend’s dad for his birthday.

Rick

Very nice, you never cease to amaze me.

Joe

Thanks, Joe for the kind words

Rick

Awesome work, how long did that take?

Awesome work, how long did that take?

Thanks, bp
The fisherman the only reason I know is because I am doing one for myself now that I have everyone else done but it takes about 7 hrs to rough & finish
I run my router slow so I don't have to sand and the detail looks better.

Rick

This cribbage board I made for myself but I have to do some work on the steps because the oval isn’t perfect. This fisherman is made from Quarter sawn Sycamore and the remaining cribbage board is Black Walnut.

Rick

That looks VERY NICE ! ! ! ! Man I really need to start cutting things for myself.... :)

Joe

That looks VERY NICE ! ! ! ! Man I really need to start cutting things for myself.... :)

Joe

Thanks, Joe

You know you are so busy helping everyone with there machine maybe it is time to take a step back and do something for yourself. It is like you have a second job and not a hobby but if that is what you like to do than by all means continue..

Rick