I'm working with Michael at CNCFusion on a new ballscrew upgrade for the X3 Mills. Well, working is giving me way too much credit... I found the angular contact bearings that are being used, but other than that I just bought the prototype and will be installing it on my X3 to get any bugs worked out before Michael makes these available.

I'll let the pics do the talking, needless to say, I'm now very glad that Syil couldn't supply me with a hardware only CNC upgrade kit when I asked. The new ballscrews Michael found are works of art. As nice or nicer than the ballscrrews on some the the semiconductor fabrication robots I've worked on. I'm not saying it's as nice as some of the $50,000 ballscrews I've seen, but very nice all the same.

Hope I don't say this too much, but I'm very, very happy with this conversion kit. I'm very glad I didn't build my own conversion using standard Nook ballscrews.

Because this is the prototype from Michael at CNCFusion, I can't answer any questions about pricing, and some details might change as I get things fitted up and make sure no mods are needed. But I'll answer any question I can.

I really like my new toy. :) :)

-Matt
X axis thrust bearing block showing preload nut:
http://lh6.google.com/image/cobraphx/RfOPjuGknmI/AAAAAAAAAD4/QmayWy5BthY/s800/PICT0001-1.JPG

X axis ballscrew:
http://lh6.google.com/image/cobraphx/RfOPpuGknqI/AAAAAAAAAEY/u6B6nssopxM/s800/PICT0005-1.JPG

Y axis screw showing motor mount and lovejoy coupling:
http://lh4.google.com/image/cobraphx/RfOPrOGknrI/AAAAAAAAAEg/4kIL8b2yY64/s800/PICT0006-1.JPG

Y axis again:
http://lh5.google.com/image/cobraphx/RfOPseGknsI/AAAAAAAAAEo/H7vkgXPe3lE/s800/PICT0007-1.JPG

X axis ballnut showing integrated wiper:
http://lh3.google.com/image/cobraphx/RfOPt-GkntI/AAAAAAAAAEw/bB0oBLYlJas/s800/PICT0008.JPG

X and Y ballnuts:
http://lh4.google.com/image/cobraphx/RfOPzOGknxI/AAAAAAAAAFQ/fZ-HssDWjCQ/s800/PICT0012.JPG

X motor mount:
http://lh5.google.com/image/cobraphx/RfOP0eGknyI/AAAAAAAAAFY/qfzFTQV4b5M/s800/PICT0013.JPG

All three side by side:
http://lh6.google.com/image/cobraphx/RfOP5uGkn1I/AAAAAAAAAFw/HQhb8ruyK9g/s800/PICT0016.JPG

Heh...maybe time for me to upgrade yet again? I was waiting for something like that.

Pretty nice looking!

A) What's up with the ballnuts? Are the ballnut options still the same, meaning plain, double, or preloaded single? Which do you have and what backlash are you seeing?

B) How do you change the thrust bearing pre-load? It looks like there is a splined nut... That's good... what's the other part that you hold to apply torque? Do I need !@#$%@#$% strap wrench to get a grip on the ballscrew itself?

Thanks!

-Jeff

The ballnuts and ballscrews are part of a new upgrade option that will be offered by Michael at CNCFusion.com . My understanding is that Michael found a new supplier for these. They are very nice.

As for backlash, I literally just took them out of the shipping box on Friday night. It will be a while before I can get everything installed and post backlash measurements.

I received the kit just as you see it. Michael will have to answer the backlash setting procedure. Not sure how he immobilized the screws while tightening the retaining nuts.

-Matt

Wow, that is probably the best looking kit I have seen for an X3. This is certainly catering to the high end. I am interested in knowing what is done about preloading the angular contacts. Uniform spacers for each set, and instructions on how much torque to apply to the bolts which clamp the outer races together?

I sure wish that motor mounts / bearing blocks would be availlable for a timing pulley arrangement. I want to run servos on either an X3 or a Lathemaster mill.

Why can't you use a servo connected straight? Is it a torque/power vs speed curve issue?

-Jeff

Is there any loss of travel with the kit?

Deviant,

My tape measure says there isn't any loss of travel. But I can't be 100% sure what the travel will be until I get everything installed. I should be able to get some numbers before the end of the week.

-Matt

depending on the costs, perhaps I'll order this kit instead of fabricating my own... time will tell.

Any updates on this?

We had to make a change to the Y axis mounting block in order to center the six and a half inches of Y axis travel under the spindle. I'll be taking new pics and making an update when I get the revised part from CNC Fusion. Hopefully it won't be much longer.

-Matt

Hey guys! How is the new Y-axis design coming along... any updates on the progress of this new kit?

It's looking really nice so far btw... can't wait to hear the results on this one.

Last I heard, they have fixed the y axis issue and they are waiting on their order of ball screws.

I'll post pictures of my pre-ordered kit when the slow boat from china arrives.

The Y axis revisions turned out very nice. The X axis travel is now 16.25" and the Y axis travel is now covers the entire table and is 6.75". Sorry I don't have any backlash numbers yet... I'm trying to get my electrical setup sorted. Haven't decided how to wire up the optical switches I bought for home / limit. Or if I should even bother with limit switches.

-Matt

I was under the impression that those Lovejoy couplings were not completely zero backlash ? or am I mistaken ?

PR.

www.mcmaster.com

search for oldham.

They list it as zero-backlash (no play)

Depending which one you get.

I'm far from an expert, but I'd say the lovejoys would stay zero or very close to zero until you put enough force on them to compress the isolator. I don't know the hardness of the isolator portion, so I won't even hazard a guess how much force is required to compress it. But I'd guess that it's significant... probably more than my steppers can generate.

-Matt

www.mcmaster.com

search for oldham.

They list it as zero-backlash (no play)

Depending which one you get.

That's what I was taught, Oldham's with the zero torque driving plate were, with the other type were not and the same for lovejoy couplings.

Another thing, although it doesn't apply to this post, why when doing CNC conversions do most people mount their stepper out in fresh air on 4 pillars looking like a grandfather clock ?
The number of conversions I have seen looking like this is beyond count.
Is it too much to ask for a bit of engineering instead of clockmaking ?

PR.

That's what I was taught, Oldham's with the zero torque driving plate were, with the other type were not and the same for lovejoy couplings.

Another thing, although it doesn't apply to this post, why when doing CNC conversions do most people mount their stepper out in fresh air on 4 pillars looking like a grandfather clock ?
The number of conversions I have seen looking like this is beyond count.
Is it too much to ask for a bit of engineering instead of clockmaking ?

PR.
I think that's so they get hot :D And as an attempt to be on topic... Sexy ballscrews you have there Cobra :)

That's what I was taught, Oldham's with the zero torque driving plate were, with the other type were not and the same for lovejoy couplings.

Another thing, although it doesn't apply to this post, why when doing CNC conversions do most people mount their stepper out in fresh air on 4 pillars looking like a grandfather clock ?
The number of conversions I have seen looking like this is beyond count.
Is it too much to ask for a bit of engineering instead of clockmaking ?

PR.


That's the cheapest way to do it. You don't have to machine out anything exciting.

Another thing, although it doesn't apply to this post, why when doing CNC conversions do most people mount their stepper out in fresh air on 4 pillars looking like a grandfather clock ?
The number of conversions I have seen looking like this is beyond count.
Is it too much to ask for a bit of engineering instead of clockmaking ?

PR.

The simpler the better. Who wants to waste time over engineering something,
they are motor mounts not precision time pieces. I want a mill up and running
doing the job, not sitting in the corner looking pretty, govnuh.
The Titanic was "engineered"
Hoss

In the posted pics I do not see any type of seal to keep swarf out of the thrust bearings.

Has this been address at all?

Also I'd like to second the belt drive option as I have servos I intend to use. And yes due to the torque curve you DO need about a 4:1 reduction with servos. Being able to mount an encoder on the screw end would also be nice. :)

Any new info on the status of this kit? Or any progress to report?

Last email I got said that the ball screws made it into the country and they should be getting them soon. It matches the thread I listed below.

http://cncfusion.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=226&start=15

I'll post pictures when it arrives.

I appreciate that. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this kit turns out. ;)

I just received word that cncfusion will be shipping my kit on monday. should have it later in the week. :) I am really looking forward to it. I ordered my x3 from grizzly, and got it in 1 day. this is just coming together really quickly. now, I need to sell my x2 cnc setup. :D

I just picked up one of these new kits for my standard x3 so I will try to document everything and start a new thread on my progress. It looks like I am #5 on the wait list, which should work out well since I'm in the middle of modifying my steel stand/table to accommodate the larger pan and enclosure that will be needed for the coolant system. Can't wait!

Received my kit.

Didn't take any pictures as I assembled it without any help. Sorry. =/

Appears to be well made and everything bolted up fine. Installation was a bit aggravating, as there were no instructions.

Micheal was quick to reply on the emails. And I didn't have any really hard problems with the mill. More with disassembly and dealing with the china machine.

For the Y-axis.
Note that the motor will be on the left side. I assembled it the first time with the motor plate on the right. That was a no-go.

Also, you'll need to remove the motor mount from the x-axis to bolt up the ballnut carrier to the saddle and slide it into place.

The z-axis was a bit of a pain. You need to secure the head via it's travel lock, and block it up with some wood. About an inch or so from the top of it's travel. Will give you enough play to slide the bottom bearing block back into place with it's alignment pins.

I had a pretty hard time removing the lower bearing block from the existing access. It would be a worth while investment for a small three jaw puller. Mine was loaned out. So I got it off with alot of cussing. The metal on the existing z-axis is very soft. Be careful that you don't expand it while removing the bearing mount. Or you'll end up with some dremel time. Not that I would know or anything. *mumbles*

Note, that I actually removed the z-axis and layed it on the ground. This isn't really needed, but I didn't fill comfortable with the 75lb head floating in the air. The ballscrews are very easy to move and the head will try to crash into the table. Be very careful.

On the z-axis, motor mount. You will need to reuse the washers. Actually I'd suggest getting some wider ones to distribute the load on the aluminum.

If anyone has any questions. Let me know. I plan to start assembling my electronics now.

Thanks.

I got my kit as well, but have not had chance to work on it. (I've been reorgranizing my shop) I may be able to get it going during the 4th. have not even open the kit yet. :) but I will report when I get to it.

I got my X3 kit, and I still cussing it. The Z axis is just a pain. Like above, I did alot of cussing getting it appart and grinding. I did end not able to get the top bearing off the stock screw, so I am looking for one of those tomorrow. Overall nice kit, but disassembly is a pain. On my kit turning the scews in the bearing mounts for the motor is very tight, I think I may back off the nut a little.

Anyone know where to buy some lube for the ballscews? Other than Nook?

[QUOTE=dneisler;315188]I got my X3 kit, and I still cussing it. The Z axis is just a pain. Like above, I did a lot of cussing getting it apart and grinding. I did end not able to get the top bearing off the stock screw, [QUOTE]

Just wind the screw back out the bronze Z axis nut and it self extracts the bearing off the top.

PR.

Might be worth posting a link here to this very nice disassembly doc for the x3 that Alan at www.arceurotrade.co.uk put together:

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/prepgu...on%20Guide.pdf

This was extremely helpful for me when I disassembled my grizzly x3 and I highly recommend it to any x3 owner.

BTW, I got my kit yesterday but won't be able to install it till this weekend... thanks for the tips guys!

I got my mill on a bench and did the x and y ball screw on it. i am waiting on doing z until I get my drivers together. went together rather easy and the kit is very smooth and tight. no apparent backlash. :) . I think it is a winner at least at this point.

the hardest thing was getting the end block off. (pretty tight on the pins) the cool thing is that you don't have to remove the handles. anyway, by end of next week, i should have everything running if I can find the time.