Last year I bought Grizzly's G0463 Small Mill, and converted it to CNC. I am now working on my own design for a CNC router (26" x 26"). In order to complete it though, I will need to turn the ends of the lead screws. Seems that was a good enough excuse to buy my first metal lathe.

I choose the new Grizzly G0602 10x20. As I did with the mill, I looked everywhere I could find, but Grizzly seemed to give the most for the money.

I have been cleaning it up, breaking it in, and anxiously waiting to start using it. As I do so, I am wondering if anyone on the boards has had experience with this same model. So, for my first post to CNCzone, I thought I should through this open to a new thread directed at the 10x20. I know there are going to be lots of people buying it (super value for < $1000), and as is the case with each new machine, it will likely have its own 'new' quirks.

So, here it is. Opportunity for 10x20 owners to be seen, be heard, and be counted. Please post your experience, thoughts, projects, mods, and anything else related to this machine.

Hi,

I am interested in hearing your comments once you use your new lathe. I was about to order an 8x12 but have held off since the new Grizzly catalog arrived with the new G0602. Any comments on how it compares to the 8x12?
Thanks.....

Any comments on how it compares to the 8x12?
Thanks.....

I have no experience with the 8x12. Given that, I did get to see a 7x10 this past weekend. To me, it looked like a toy model compared to the 10x20. (Not putting down the 7x's but giving a verbal/visual analogy.)

When I consider buying a tool that I expect to use for a long time, and with which I expect to do high-quality work, I get very picky. When I bought the mill, I looked at the mini's in the $300-$600 range. Every time I thought I was getting close to making a decision, I imagined myself wanting "just a little more" than what they had to offer in terms of workpiece size. Even though I had a limited budget, I found the Grizzly small mill to be an excellent value and gave me piece of mind that any regrets regarding capabilities would be somewhat further down the road.

When I was ready to get the lathe, I went through the same agony of deciding between entry-level cost and longer-term happiness. 7x's and 8x's and even 9x's seemed to cost too much for the limitations. (I keep telling myself 'This is more expensive that I think it should be.') The 10x, however, seems to have more capabilities for the $. (I found myself saying 'What a great value!')

So, I ended up getting the most that I could afford at the time. That philosophy may be the best advice I can offer anyone. When it comes to tools, buying the best you can afford (you get to decide on the criteria for 'best') is a pretty good way to go. Get the best basic machine you can afford, and then go a little slower on the tooling and extras that you want. You can add extras a little at a time, but the basic machine is going to stay with you for a long time. Going undersized is not the best way to save money.

I will gladly keep everyone posted on the performance, but for now - it certainly 'feels' like the best decision I could have made.

just got this one...arrived a few days ago from ups, but it got killed bad during shipping...should have another one here by next week. I'll start putting up some pics and such when i get it.

Last year I bought Grizzly's G0463 Small Mill, and converted it to CNC. I am now working on my own design for a CNC router (26" x 26"). In order to complete it though, I will need to turn the ends of the lead screws. Seems that was a good enough excuse to buy my first metal lathe.

I choose the new Grizzly G0602 10x20. As I did with the mill, I looked everywhere I could find, but Grizzly seemed to give the most for the money.

I have been cleaning it up, breaking it in, and anxiously waiting to start using it. As I do so, I am wondering if anyone on the boards has had experience with this same model. So, for my first post to CNCzone, I thought I should through this open to a new thread directed at the 10x20. I know there are going to be lots of people buying it (super value for < $1000), and as is the case with each new machine, it will likely have its own 'new' quirks.

So, here it is. Opportunity for 10x20 owners to be seen, be heard, and be counted. Please post your experience, thoughts, projects, mods, and anything else related to this machine.

I believe you are the first owner to report, its a new model, and was on b/o untill this week, I am considering it, please let us know what you think about it.
regards chris

Right on! Have learned that the HARD way too many times.

So, I ended up getting the most that I could afford at the time. That philosophy may be the best advice I can offer anyone. When it comes to tools, buying the best you can afford (you get to decide on the criteria for 'best') is a pretty good way to go. Get the best basic machine you can afford, and then go a little slower on the tooling and extras that you want. You can add extras a little at a time, but the basic machine is going to stay with you for a long time. Going undersized is not the best way to save money.

Mine arrives wenesday! Replacing my old atlas and my 7 by 10 with it.

I just finished installing a Newall C80 DRO on my 1 month-old Grizzly G9733 (their flagship 15x50 lathe). Initial tests with some 2" 4140 prehard, CNGG inserts, and a Mitutoyo digital mic show that the machine can hold 2 tenths easily.

Grizzly's come a long way since the early 80s and I can vouch for them on both ends of the price spectrum.

I just finished installing a Newall C80 DRO on my 1 month-old Grizzly G9733 (their flagship 15x50 lathe). Initial tests with some 2" 4140 prehard, CNGG inserts, and a Mitutoyo digital mic show that the machine can hold 2 tenths easily.

Grizzly's come a long way since the early 80s and I can vouch for them on both ends of the price spectrum.


I hope this holds true with the 10x22, I wonder what the make of it is, it looks alittle like both the jet and the sieg.

chris

Well, the 10x22 won't hold 2 tenths. You get what you pay for... the G9733 cost close to 13K shipped.

But for the price, I think the 10x22 is hard to beat, and when you buy from Griz, it's less of a gamble. If you have any problems, their customer service responds pretty quickly to emails.

I used to hold Jet in higher regard but they've slipped in the last few years. Quality control is not as good and their distribution network is a mess.

Well, the 10x22 won't hold 2 tenths. You get what you pay for... the G9733 cost close to 13K shipped.

But for the price, I think the 10x22 is hard to beat, and when you buy from Griz, it's less of a gamble. If you have any problems, their customer service responds pretty quickly to emails.

I used to hold Jet in higher regard but they've slipped in the last few years. Quality control is not as good and their distribution network is a mess.

I would be happy if it did, but I will live with a modest .001

chris

Glad to see some movement on this thread. More so, glad to see others buying the product.

As always, you get what you pay for. I would never compare a $1k machine to a $13k setup - but clearly they are for different markets.

To my way of thinking - 10x22 with a company that will stand behind it is a bargain at this price.

I actually got mine BEFORE the shipment arrived. I was told for two weeks that they were on backorder till 2/22, but on the second call, the agent said that if I put in a "dummy" order (just give zip code), she could see how many are waiting, etc. When we did, it showed she actually had one that they could ship - so I placed the order (on Thursday) and it arrived on Monday.

Please - everyone please keep adding to this thread. Being a new machine, we will likely need to know about each other's experiences.

Glad to see some movement on this thread. More so, glad to see others buying the product.

As always, you get what you pay for. I would never compare a $1k machine to a $13k setup - but clearly they are for different markets.

To my way of thinking - 10x22 with a company that will stand behind it is a bargain at this price.

I actually got mine BEFORE the shipment arrived. I was told for two weeks that they were on backorder till 2/22, but on the second call, the agent said that if I put in a "dummy" order (just give zip code), she could see how many are waiting, etc. When we did, it showed she actually had one that they could ship - so I placed the order (on Thursday) and it arrived on Monday.

Please - everyone please keep adding to this thread. Being a new machine, we will likely need to know about each other's experiences.

I would still like to know who makes it, sieg, jet or other, and if the specs are what they really list.
chris

It's not a Sieg, I don't think. You can see the Sieg lathes here.... http://www.siegind.com/

Jet doesn't make any tools. They just import them.

It's not a Sieg, I don't think. You can see the Sieg lathes here.... http://www.siegind.com/

Jet doesn't make any tools. They just import them.

Yeah i just use them as the reference, I really don't know who makes them, Seig makes other things they don't post on their web, trust me I go there often and look. if I were to take an educated guess I would say its of jet hertiage.

chris

Mine arrived today!!! Looks very nice, haven't had a chance to move it into the shop, but im cleaning it off and going thru the manuels.

Packaging was a bit flimsy, less than i would expect for a lathe of this size and wieght, i think im lucky it didn't get damaged in transit, the wood pallet it rests on was almost completely broken.

Pixs up soon.

[QUOTE=Legion99999;268984]

Packaging was a bit flimsy, less than i would expect for a lathe of this size and wieght, i think im lucky it didn't get damaged in transit, the wood pallet it rests on was almost completely broken.

Mine was the same - box damaged but contents perfect. If they start getting a bunch of damaged machines to replace, they will beef up the containers (but probably not until then).

For what it is worth I have a friend with a older 9X19? or 20?. He complains about the lead screw being quite worn. He is retired and uses the lathe and a Grizzly benchtop mill quite a bit to make model 2 and 4 cycle gas engines. Despite his complaints about the lead screw and the problems with a round column mill he turns out fantastic work. Because of inspiration from him I want to make a model of a ford flathead V8 but I am having trouble finding any plans. Jack.

For what it is worth I have a friend with a older 9X19? or 20?. He complains about the lead screw being quite worn. He is retired and uses the lathe and a Grizzly benchtop mill quite a bit to make model 2 and 4 cycle gas engines. Despite his complaints about the lead screw and the problems with a round column mill he turns out fantastic work. Because of inspiration from him I want to make a model of a ford flathead V8 but I am having trouble finding any plans. Jack.

Not exactly a flathead, but sure looks cute:

http://www.jerry-howell.com/V-Four.html

That Grizzly lathe looks to me like a Lathemaster 9x30 with a quickchange threading gearbox added:

http://www.lathemaster.com/LATHEMASTER9x30Lathe.htm

If so, it should be an excellent lathe. The Lathemasters are really excellent machines, and there is no comparison between this variety and the "regular" 9x20 lathes. These lathes are copies of the Emco Compact 8's, which are a well made European lathe.

You may find it worthwhile to check out the Yahoo Lathemaster Group:

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/

and also the Yahoo 8x18 group (fundamentally the same Enco knock off with a shorter bed):

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/8x18Lathe/

Best,

BW

Not exactly a flathead, but sure looks cute:

http://www.jerry-howell.com/V-Four.html

That Grizzly lathe looks to me like a Lathemaster 9x30 with a quickchange threading gearbox added:

http://www.lathemaster.com/LATHEMASTER9x30Lathe.htm

If so, it should be an excellent lathe. The Lathemasters are really excellent machines, and there is no comparison between this variety and the "regular" 9x20 lathes. These lathes are copies of the Emco Compact 8's, which are a well made European lathe.

You may find it worthwhile to check out the Yahoo Lathemaster Group:

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/

and also the Yahoo 8x18 group (fundamentally the same Enco knock off with a shorter bed):

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/8x18Lathe/

Best,

BW


I would agree with you execpt the chuck mounts entirely different. And it has a 1" through hole in the spindle.

chris

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_026.jpg
http://www.mcarterbrown.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_027.jpg

Spent the day breaking it in after i built a bench for it, looks promising!!!

Well any comments? did you try any steel yet?

chris

Haven't cut any steel on it yet, however Brass, aluminum, delrin, and Abs, all cut like a dream, I am really digging the adjustable power feed rate it has.

Going froma 1/3 horsepower lathe to a full horse sure is noticible.

Mine arrived a couple of days ago. I think Grizzly is definately going to need to address the packaging. Mine broke through the crate, thankfully it wasn't damaged this time.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a298/jkrell/3_11_07_009.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a298/jkrell/3_11_07_010.jpg

I'm definately not a machinist but the lathe seems to be pretty good to me thus far. One interesting thing is that it appears as though the diagram for the spindle speeds is backwards. When i was breaking it in, I was thinking man this thing is hauling ass...turns out it was.

I haven't checked for runnout and such yet, but i'll get to it sometime in the next week or so. I did turn and face a tube down to pretty much nothing, worked good. What are some good tests people could reccommend to properly test this machine?

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a298/jkrell/3_11_07_015.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a298/jkrell/3_11_07_016.jpg

Well, i have the first batch of bad news to report. After the break in period i have discovered my Lathe is cutting an obvious taper. With or without the tail stock in use.



I haven't had time to trouble shoot it yet but i suspect that the chuck may be flawed. or the bed is misaligned with the chuck assembly.

Oh well hope i can figure it out id hate to have to ship the damn thing back to grizzly

Well, i have the first batch of bad news to report. After the break in period i have discovered my Lathe is cutting an obvious taper. With or without the tail stock in use.



I haven't had time to trouble shoot it yet but i suspect that the chuck may be flawed. or the bed is misaligned with the chuck assembly.

Oh well hope i can figure it out id hate to have to ship the damn thing back to grizzly

Was your crate damaged when you got it also?
chris

yes it was

how level is your machine, if the bench that it is bolted down to is not perfectly level it can cause the casting to flex and which would cause the carriage to travel misaligned.

It is level and bolted down, that mite be a good place to start though

If you bolt these lighter machines too tightly, that can introduce a twist in the bed. Also, levelling is a place to start, but you can use the bolt downs to add a little controlled twist to offset a problem.

Just exactly how bad is the taper you are experiencing? How did you chuck up your test bar? Ideally it should be done by turning between centers because the chuck may not be true. Failing that, you will need to use a 4-jaw, and dial it in very carefully. Turning between centers is a better procedure though.

Try turning between centers and see if you can adjust the taper out with your tailstock.

Lastly, make your final cut on your test bar a very light cut as the lathe will likely flex on a heavy cut.

Best,

BW

OK i have corrected the problem. First let me tell you that the spindle threading is horrible, and dirty, I completely cleaned it and oiled it as well adjust the chuck lock and it is now cutting like it should.

One of the chuck locks was torque down to an unbelieveable level. they are both now set to exactley 20 lbs.

Excellent!

So you should still see some measurable taper, albeit small. What are you getting?

Best,

BW

around .002 but i am still adjusting

OK i have corrected the problem. First let me tell you that the spindle threading is horrible, and dirty, I completely cleaned it and oiled it as well adjust the chuck lock and it is now cutting like it should.

One of the chuck locks was torque down to an unbelieveable level. they are both now set to exactley 20 lbs.

While on the subject what do you think of that spindle lock?

Also one method I was taught during a setup of a batch of lathes we got when I was still in school, was to take a ground or known piece of harderned metal and chuck it. Then indicate it the length of the bar, the particlular ones I used had a shoulder cut so you only went so far into chucks, they could also be used between centers, and there was some jigging to allow checking the tailstocks. It was a standard size so it made figuring a taper fairly easy, it also had a jig which allowed the mounting of a indicator to run to the bedways/saddle, never found that as accurate as piano wire though.
One particluar kit was for clausing machine they had, it screwed onto the spindle(or locked I forget now) bypassing the chuck and faceplates for an intial check.

chris

Any updates on this machine?
I am researching lathes in this size and really would like to know if this one worked out for you'uns.

I've been happy with my machine. i only use it for small bosses and bushing but i have had no problems at all with it. 1000 bucks well spent in my book.

Very glad to hear that.
I plan to call grizzly Wednesday to place an order.
Any suggestions on what tools etc to order at the same time?

Ish..... man why do you guys mess with these machines!

Ish..... man why do you guys mess with these machines!

The challange! Actually, you already know the answer... in my case it's becuase my pocket book is sooo very small :) Big lathes have their purpose and there are jobs where you never have one large enough but for many this is just right.

very true, some people just can't afford to go and buy a big american made lathe. For me that is part of the reason the other being that I just don't have the room for a bigger lathe. That being said this size lathe is very capable, Instead of worrying about how small the lathe is, worry about how to make it work for what you need it. Just have a look at the stuff people are making with even the 7 x 12 size lathes, after seeing one in person it is simply amazing! now those are tiny!

chris.

As it turned out the 10x22 will not be in stock until Aug. and I cannot wait that long so I ordered a 12x36 gear head instead.

Got my G0602 from Grizzly almost 2 weeks ago but had to build a stand for it. I wanted the top of the stand to be adjustable so I can level it regardless of floor condition. All came out ok and lathe is in its stand now. I wiped all the grease and inspected everything. All seems to be ok. Only problem is that I'm so confused as of what oil do I need for this lathe. I'm new to lathes so I'd like to get someone's opinion on this issue. The manual says to use Mobil DTE Heavy-medium for the gearbox and 10W machine oil for the 11 ball oilers. I cannot find these oils in local stores by these names. I went to walmart, autozone, sears, and none of them have these names. Do I really have to look for these or are other equivalents I could use? I read that I should not use motor oil and I know that now. Where can I get oil for this lathe? Any on-line stores? I'd like to start the break-in process but I need the proper oil.

Many thanks,

Enco sells these oils... someone more experienced should say if something else could be substituted in this particular case though.

Purchased Mobil DTE 26 that is ISO 68 for the gearbox and Mobil DTE 24, ISO 32 for the ways from McMaster. Very good prices and fast delivery. Part numbers were
1 - 2158K13 Mobil Oil Dte 26 Hydraulic Oil, ISO Grade 68, SAE 20, 1-Gal
2 - 2158K11 Mobil Oil Dte 24 Hydraulic Oil, ISO Grade 32, SAE 10W, 1-Gal

Did the initial run on all speeds and changed the oil. Not that easy though to drain the oil. You need a flat container that goes under the lathe so you can collect the oil coming out of the drain plug. All seems fine. I now have to start calibrating and check for any corrections that might needed. I did order from Grizzly some extra things, like center drills, a cutting blade and its holder and a 7 piece Live Cneter set MT3 (Grizzly part G1070).

Can't wait to start using this machine.

Thanks,

My G0602 has arrived. Crate was barely holding together. I used an Floor Engine Crane to get it off a pickup truck. Then when I lifted the lathe the bottom started falling apart. Only shipping casualty was the yellow ring around the emergency stop button. They are going to replace the switch. They sent a replacement but sent the wrong one. I built a table top by laminating 1/4" plywood with 2x4's on top of 3/4" plywood. Bought the Shop Fox Heavy-Duty Workbench Leg System. Except for the Shop Fox label being up-side-down I am quite pleased with the results. Have cleaned and completed break-in. Just starting to play and have lots to learn. I have some pictures I would like to share.

I picked it up from Grizzly south of the border at the Bellingham WA store (I'm in western Canada) - what great service! I haven't finished the base yet, but hope to have it done by tomorrow.

I bought some indexing bits, center drills, knurler, cutoff tool, #4MT to #3MT reducer (I have some #3MT tools from other machines).

I had a lot of time on lathes twenty years ago but not much since, so consider myself an amateur. I'm fortunate to have some very knowledgeble and generous people nearby to learn from.

Looking for comments (good and bad) from others with experience on this lathe.

Thanks.

Dave
Saltspring Island

Hello all,

My new Seif C6 came yesterday from Grizzly. It replacses my 7 x 12 that I converted to CNC using materials from HobbyCNC. I had previously coverted a mini-mill using HobbyCNC equipement also.

I would like to use servo motors for the C6. After spending quite a bit of time searching the web I seem to be settling on a system or parts from www.homeshopcnc.com and/or maybe http://www.kelinginc.net/index.html

I haven't decided on gear and belt or direct drive for either axis yet.

The benifit of your experience would be greatly appreciated.

Rick

I would like to do a 10x20 cnc myself. Can you use a 5c collet with these lathes ??

What type of accuracy did you get with your other conversion ??


Bill

I don't know about the collet. I didn't switch out the lead screws and nuts, so the backlash of the original nuts was the limiting factor. I used a ballscrew on the Z axis of the mill and it smokes the axis as far as speed goes.

On another note, does anyone know a good source for 4 or 5 to 1 ratio timing sprockets at 1/2" width? Maybe "L" size.

What's the normal motor size and gear ratio applied to 10" lathe?

https://sdp-si.com/

Does the Grizzly G0602 have a power cross feed? Do any of the 9x20's have a power cross feed? For those of you with lathes that do not have a power cross feed, do you find that it affects your work quality much?

Ish..... man why do you guys mess with these machines!
My job makes me relocate every 2-3 years, frequently cross country and occasionally overseas. 1000-2000# machines would quickly overload my household weight allowance (17k), meaning it costs me big $$$ to move (0.84 per pound overweight, coast to coast). Not to mention what damage the movers would do to heavy stuff.

So I have to settle for lighter weight machinery that I can easily load and unload from a rental truck with a CUT with forklift bars. The G0602 is doable. A 1000-1500# lathe is not. A bridgeport is definitely be a bad idea. The Sieg X3 would work.

I keep going back and drooling over the Grizz G4002 12x24 and G9249 12x37 and thinking about how much better they would cut. My CUT will only lift 800#, so it makes these models very inconvenient to maneuver. I think that I would be much smarter to stick with the G0602 for now.

Does the Grizzly G0602 have a power cross feed? Do any of the 9x20's have a power cross feed?
I don't think you will fin power cross feed in any small lathes until you hit the 12x?? swing size.

I made a power cross feed for my Jet 9x20.
First I made larger handles rings that slip over the existing ones and use a small set screw to keep them in place. They work much better but sometimes they have to be removed when the cross slide is at certain angles ....takes just a few seconds. The bolt that holds the thread dial now holds a dc cordless drill motor with gear train. With a small flat pulley on the motor rather than a chuck....and the crossslide handle as the larger pulley and a rubber belt work well. If it reaches the end of travel and you're not watching
...no problem or damage. The belt just slips. The power consist of a AC to DC
power supply. I think 12 vdc. I vary the voltage to the power supply on the ac side with a simple dimmer control. This has worked well for me. You get a much better finish if the feed is steady. I also made a power feed for my jet mill drill out of old crap. Works good. If you want to see the table feed motor,
go to youtube and put "homemade power table feed for mill drill" in the search box. I don't have a video of the lathe part yet but I have other videos there you may find entertaining.

Sow now some of you have had the Grizzly G0602 for almost a year...what are your long-term impressions?

I'm attracted to this machine primarily because of the 1" spindle bore...seems impossible to find until you get up to the 12" machines or so. I would think that being able to turn a long piece of 1" tube would be a pretty basic threshold, one worth a few hundred bucks over the mini mills. Otherwise, the mini mills (7x14 up to maybe a 9x20) would probably suit my noodling needs.

I've looked at the various 3-in-1 machines, but I'm leery of combo units, their compromises, and liabilities. However, I've seen a few "barely used" Smithy 1220's with lots of tooling for around the same price...$1000 or so. It's got similar lathe specs (including spindle bore) as the G0602.

Everyone seems to pretty much poo-poo the 3-in-1's, which matches my expectations. Changing from lathe to mill is apparently a big bother, and the reviews on the mill are discouraging, to be generous. However, the lathe part seems to get reasonable reviews. I'm toying with the idea of going that route, justifying it only for its lathe application. The idea that it's got a wheenie mill I could cut my teeth on (no pun intended) would just be bonus. I don't have a mill, but it's on my "as soon as I can justify" list.

I would never buy a TV/VCR or a Chevy Avalanche, for all the same reasons. The main attraction of the 3-in-1 is the space savings, which is notable in my shop. Cost savings is a very minor consideration.


I'd value your thoughts and opinions, particularly from G0602 (or Smithy) owners?

Thanks,
-dave

I'll probably completely expose myself a a newbie, but here goes.

The Grizzly specs say the G0602 comes with a "Four Way Tool Post". Is that the same thing as a Quick Change Tool Post?

And speaking of accessories, what would you consider a reasonable set of tooling and accessories to get with this lathe? I've got all kinds of shop equipment (measurement tools, drill press, hand tools) but nothing machine-oriented.

Thanks,
-dave

Hi all,
I have been using a Atlas 618 for the past year & a half, so I do concider myself still a newbe to turning metal. The 618 was loaned to me by a neighbor and took very little TLC to get it working again from being idle for several years. Not being able to purchase it from my neighbor (sentimental reasons), I just yesterday placed an order to Grizzly for A G4000 & after realizing the 3/4" HS opening, I re-called the factory & upgraded my order to the new G0602 10 X 22 that has the 1" HS opening. Estimated delivery by Thursday or Friday of next week.... Really looking forward to making curls on the new machine. Looking forward to learning new things on this forum....:)
Lee (Sacemoi)

>> The Grizzly specs say the G0602 comes with a "Four Way Tool Post". Is that the same thing as a Quick Change Tool Post?

No, a Four Way Tool Post allows you to clamp four different lathe bits facing in four different directions. You unlock and rotate the TP to change tools.

A QCTP on the other hand holds a single tool in a holder. You can buy as many holders as you can, mount any manner of tool bits in them, then swap them out very quickly. In my opinion, a QCTP is the better way to go.


>>> And speaking of accessories, what would you consider a reasonable set of tooling and accessories to get with this lathe?

Everyone has their own favorites, but a good start might be: Knurling tool, parting tool, center drills, Jacobs' chuck with a #3 Morse Taper, #4MT to #3 MT adapter sleeve (so you can use your tailpiece attachments in the head), full set of lathe dogs (the G0602 comes with a faceplate), a real oilcan.

At least, those are what I added right away.

Dave
Saltspring

I am waiting for my lathe to arrive and am building a steel frame to support it on. The grizzly online manual shows a frame of 47.5" x 12.75" is required and that two bolt down holes 5/8" dia on a pitch of 32.5" are also required. I do also presume that they are on the same centerline as the lathe - no reason to think this would not be the case obviously.

Can anyone tell me if these are equispaced from each end of the frame (i.e. 7.5" from either end) or if they are biased towards the head or the tail of the lathe. Also just confirm for sure that they are 6.375" from both the front and the rear.

I would appreciate some help here as I would like to get the frame fully welded and painted before the lathe arrives.

I just ordered the Grizzly 10x22 G0602 today. It's on back order until the end of May they tell me. I'm looking forward to getting it, though. I have relatively no experience using lathes, so I'm hoping you all won't mind me asking "newbie" questions.

Den

If there isn't a blueprint in the downloadable manual, I don't think I'd build the stand until the lathe is in the shop. You just never know what little lever will stick out or clearance is needed for an access cover to open or something.

If you're in a hurry, you could build the frame in advance, but leave out the crossbars that will take the bolt holes, and weld those last parts in when it gets there.

As for the bolts lining up on the centerline, I wouldn't bet on it. I ended up buying an old JET 10x22, and the motor hangs *way* out the back. I built a 30" deep bench, and the front of the lathe is at the front of the table. The bolt holes are maybe 6" and 12" from the front edge, and I have to pull the bench away from the wall about an inch for the rear pulley to clear the wall. You can kinda see it in the picture below.

The Grizzly looks more compact that this JET, but you still never know.

HTH,
-dave

So, I ordered the Grizzly 10x22 G0602 yesterday. The documentation says it comes with an MT#3 dead center. I'm sure I will need a live center as well, but I am unsure of the terms "MT#3" vs. #2, etc. Again, I am extremely new to lathes. Can someone help me with understanding the difference in sizes? And maybe suggest some chucks, centers, and such that I will need?

I am going to be turing small (1" dia. to 3" dia.) aluminum parts on this lathe only. No stainless, or mild steel.

Thanks

Den

MT = morse taper

I am unsure of the terms "MT#3" vs. #2, etc. Again, I am extremely new to lathes. Can someone help me with understanding the difference in sizes? And maybe suggest some chucks, centers, and such that I will need?

Go to smartflix.com, and rent some of their basic lathe (and mill) videos for $10 each. They have some decent videos that will walk you through each part of the lathe and how to use it.

My 6 year old loves watching these videos. He would rather watch a how-to video with a 65-70 year old retired machinist explaing basic operations instead of cartoons. Kind of funny, because they don't go out of their way to be entertaining or use flashy graphics.

I have high hopes for him.

Very fortuitous that this thread should appear. I just started research on this model. Was initially looking at the G4000 but decided that the G0602
was the ticket for me.

Reasons are as follows

Haven't found a bad review so far

Seems to do what I would like it to do and since I'm new to the craft, It appears to be a good machine to learn on

Grizz has good customer service

It's affordable. Would REALLY like the benchtop Gunsmith Lathe, but just can't afford it. If the gun work goes to pro instead of hobby, then I will consider the larger machine.

It is $170 more than the G4000, but will do more also and I think that the advice given here as to getting the most machine you could afford is good advice. $170 in the greater scheme of things is not much and if you amortize that money over 5 years it's 32 bcks a year. Less if I have it longer.

I stil have a ways to go as to saving for the purchase, but will start to amass tooling, indicators and bits before I get the machine so that when it arrives I will be ready to set up, break in and get started.

Also...Twehr...How do you like the Small Mill and what are the advantages of a dovetail column over the usual round one?


Thanks for the info folks. This is my first post, but not the last.

Thanks for thoughts dhempy. I have already built the frame - from the sketch in the manual, but it only gave pitch of holes not the actual location. I was going to rent a floor crane to get the lathe up my driveway and then onto the frame and wanted to do it all in one rental. Will probably just see what arrives and to the necessary steel surgery when I open the box.

See photo of frame

I just got my 602 this afternoon.

The bottom chip tray ships seperated from the lathe (the lathe is bolted to the pallet). The chip tray has 2 holes in it. They are centered front to back, one is 9" from the side, the other is 5 3/4 from the side.

Good luck

Appreciate the info tysonsdad100. Is the 9" measured from the chuck or the tailstock end?

The 9" is on the headstock end.

Dan

I received my G0602 today and had the same crate damage as everyone else. thankfully the only casualty was a busted carriage wheel handle. I was missing the 4 jaw chuck though. Customer service is great though. Within 2 hours I had a return call from a well spoken customer service rep after I placed the call earlier reporting the damage.

I'm looking for a handle to use to use as a quick release for the tailstock.

What is everyone doing for carriage measurements though? I did not realize it did not have a gauge/indicator on the carriage, that really sucks.

I don't want to have to setup a dial indicator everytime, is there a solution for measuring carriage while machining?

Maybe a single axis DRO?

Anyone running a DRO kit on the g0602 yet?

I'm using it mostly for aluminum, and some steel, all for race car components.

http://jaffster.com/misc/Misc/newtoy.JPG

This lathe is similar to my Lathemaster. I made a compound DRO in about an hour from a cheap set of calipers:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/img/SteamEngines/VerburgRevOpenCol/P1010485.JPG

Another mod I made to the lathe that I really enjoy is a tailstock camlock:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/img/LatheStuff/TailCamlok/P1010375.JPG

You can see these mods and others on my web site:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCProjects.htm

Cheers,

BW

I'm talking about the carriage wheel movement though. There is already a dial up there, I need something to measure the entire carriage movement side to side.

Anyone know of a cheap universal DRO that can be adapter to the g0602?

This is $130, it fits on similar chinese 7x14 lathes...I wonder how hard it would be to adapt it to the g0602?

http://littlemachineshop.com/Products/Images/480/480.2222.jpg

jaffster,

Now that looks funky...Grizzly Green with the white lathe. I was thinking of ordering one to complement the Grizzly G0463 that I received last week....maybe I'll hold off until the two items become one color.....

Paul

I don't think you will fin power cross feed in any small lathes until you hit the 12x?? swing size.

My 9" South Bend has power cross feed. I use it all the time, especially for parting off. I also find that I get smoother facing cuts if I use power crossfeed then doing it by hand.

I had a 7x12 and considered the G0602 before buying a used South Bend (9A A, 36" between centers). I'm glad to see people updating this thread with their G0602 experiences, it is hard to find much on that lathe.

I have been looking for a post on the new Grizzly G0602. I am looking for a small lathe to work with my hobby (Adult Air Guns) and the 602 sounds like it will fill the bill. There is not much out there about this lathe I hope that more will post here about it.

I have been looking for a post on the new Grizzoy G0602. I am looking for a small lathe to work with my hobby (Adult Air Guns) and the 602 sounds like it will fill the bill. There is not much out there about this lathe I hope that more will post here about it.

Yahoo has a group dedicated to this lathe. You might check it out

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/10x22grizzlyandthelike/?yguid=343916263

Just got my G0602 set up, broken in, relubed and made first cut. Pretty sweet for about $2.30 a pound!
Another story of the lathe busting through the crate, but survived well.
I was wanting to take the chuck adapter off the spindle; was I supposed to get a spanner wrench to hold the spindle? There is no spindle lock as such, or, hmm, better go read through the manual again..

All in all, I'm very pleased with it. I did notice that the tailstock is not finished well on the bottom, in fact downright chisel grade, and sweeping it, it's tall a few thou, so looks like I'll lap it in to height and finish. Got a QCTP from CDCO, Jacobs chuck from Grizzly, some assorted cutters and 2" magnetic plunge gage. I'm looking forward to putting encoders and DRO. I've got it all lying around here, just need to do it.

Anyone get a 5C nose for one of these? I saw one, but the spindle thread is 1.75"-8 and I'm having trouble finding a semi finished plate for that thread.

Rented an engine hoist and fitted on my stand really sweetly. Unfortunately all the tools I ordered won't arrive until Monday, so only cutting I've done so far was with some little Carbide tools I got from Harbor Freight at the weekend. Need to play about setting the height a bit better - getting some orangepeel - so I think my clearances are not enough. Would be doing more but the European Soccer Championship is distracting me.

Also thanks again tysonsdad100 for info on bolt positions - saved me doing any mods before I placed the lathe. Picture shows my set up.

I was wanting to take the chuck adapter off the spindle; was I supposed to get a spanner wrench to hold the spindle? There is no spindle lock as such, or, hmm, better go read through the manual again..

.

My chuck was stuck pretty good. Using the two chuck keys to spin the chuck off only resulted into the bending one of the keys, expanding the hole on the spindle and bloodying my knuckles. After consulting with a relative, I sprayed the back (to get the threads) with WD40, whacked it with wooden mallet straight on, spun the jaws together, put a crecent wrench on one jaw, and put a rubber pipe wrench on the spindle and it came right off.

I oiled up the spindle and the chuck and have not had issues with removing it anymore. I will be making a spanner wrench in the near future.

The oil in my gearbox seems to be leaking out behind the aluminum faceplate. If you remove the faceplate, there are two deep holes, both of which seem to fill with oil. I think I am going to have to remove the gearbox and replace (or add) a seal to stop the leaking.

I am curious if anyone else has issues with gearbox leakage.

Dan

...Using the two chuck keys to spin the chuck off only resulted into the bending one of the keys, expanding the hole on the spindle and bloodying my knuckles....
Ha ha, yep, ditto that, I'm sporting the same knuckles. I gave up and put the chuck back on, vowing to find the spanner wrench somewhere.
No leaks I can see as yet.
Next, I think I'll get a 5c setup for it. Now that I think about it, I don't need to get that spindle adapter off unless I need to change it for that.
Mine cut pretty well out of the box, but there is a small bit of taper, like a few tenths over 3". Not too bad.

When I purchased my G0602 a month or so ago, I picked up a drill chuck and arbor. The arbor fits my M3 taper on the tail stock, but when I went to use it yesterday, I noticed that there are no "flats" inside the tailstock barrel that keep the arbor from spinning.

Am I missing something here, or is this common on the G0602? What have others done to remedy this?

http://www.pacificrocketry.com/images/ds-lathe.jpg

I noticed that there are no "flats" inside the tailstock barrel that keep the arbor from spinning.

Am I missing something here, or is this common on the G0602? What have others done to remedy this?


The Morris Tapers (MT) do not need flats to work so it should not be an issue. I normally have to crank my tailstock carrier into the tailstock to eject the accessory because they have such a tight fit. You may want to crank the tailsock out until it hits the workpiece (with the lathe off) to snug up the fit before you start the lathe. Otherwise it may make a 1/4 turn or so before it snugs up.

Dan

Since my gearbox was draining by itself in about a week, I took the cover off the gearbox. I decided to take a picture of it in case anyone else is curious about what it looks like. The shift-lever is the little blocks in the lower right corner of the picture.

The sight glass had a bad $0.39 O-ring and the sealant around the gearbox was not complete. I currently have the entire gearbox off the lathe and I am testing for more leaks before I remount it.

Dan


http://blufiles.storage.live.com/y1pAGVnXQ_nAy8g6uqkPFr84ihzVK09qexoMU-Zz4j84owPxl6SwHZJJxYVPha28rTB

Good morning. :-)
I bought a new Grizzly g0602 two weeks ago. I was some what dissapointed in the paint job and the main castings are pretty rough, As far as the important things go it seems like a nice machine, cross feed and carriage and etc. are smooth and no play to speak of. Haven't taken the time to check it for accuracy yet. But, do I really want to know. LOL It doesn't have a cabinet type stand for that model, I got the next bigger stand and had to cut the length of the center panel down to make it the right length. Worked out good!!

When I purchased my G0602 a month or so ago, I picked up a drill chuck and arbor. The arbor fits my M3 taper on the tail stock, but when I went to use it yesterday, I noticed that there are no "flats" inside the tailstock barrel that keep the arbor from spinning.

Am I missing something here, or is this common on the G0602? What have others done to remedy this?

Your arbor should be tight at tailstock zero. If it is not, then you will need to either cut/grind off the flat or live with less travel.

CR.

Since my gearbox was draining by itself in about a week, I took the cover off the gearbox. I decided to take a picture of it in case anyone else is curious about what it looks like. The shift-lever is the little blocks in the lower right corner of the picture.

The sight glass had a bad $0.39 O-ring and the sealant around the gearbox was not complete. I currently have the entire gearbox off the lathe and I am testing for more leaks before I remount it.

Dan

Hi Dan, Looks like I'm in the same boat. The oil drained out from behind it seems, beyond the pan and wicked under the pan. Did yours leak into the pan from the gearbox side?