Thought I would go ahead and start my own build log. I am building a Torchmate 1 kit. Plasma cutter will be a Cutmaster 101. I will make the material support slates part of the frame, then later will build a shallow water table that can be wheeled out from one side. I think I am going to run the slats length-wise with an extra support or two in the middle underneath and across the table. I think running the slats length-wise will help me when loading material on to them so that it does not catch every 3".

I built the basic table/rails over the weekend, and got the kit from Torchmate yesterday (Wednesday). Last night I got the gantry basiclly completed, I still need to make the Y-axis carriage and get the gear rack mounted to the beam.

One thing I plan on adding will be a series of small air lines to constantly blow a gentle stream of air onto the gear racks on either side of the gears to keep them clean of dust and crap while the machine is running.

Here is what I have so far. Enjoy!

Bob

A few more.

Looks great! Very impressive so far. Keep up the good work!

Thank you! It's been fun so far! The computer cabinet came today, just don't have the computer to put in it yet :)

It's identical to this one, and I got the shelves too.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/images/large_wco/239115GY_1wco.gif

I got the carriage done last night. I still need to do some adjustments to the heigth, as it is now it will not clear one of the Y-axis frame brackets so it won't move fully to the right (as viewed from the front of the plate, first picture where I am pointing with the scribe). But, this is all just mock up for the most part. Once all the electronics are tested, I will pull it apart for paint then put it back together.

B,

I have the same system less it is 7 years old now.

When are you going to fit the rack to the .75" x 2.00" CRS ? Plan on having to correct for some stress deflection.

I would recommend too that you install some more follower bearings on the y axis carriage assymbly. This is the weak link in their design. I would install at least 2 more cam follower bearings that run against the vertical face. I added four more.

PM me if you have additional questions

Good luck

TP

I actually installed the rack this morning. Everything turned out good there. I too was thinking about adding two more brackets to be able to add a total of four more cam followers. I noticed last night when I was marking where to place the rack that it had a slight upper corner to opposing lower corner rock to it. VERY minimal, but it is there.

I also got one of the x-axis gear racks tacked on to the 1/2' X 1-1/2" CRB and the holes drilled in the tubing, I just need to bolt it on. I still need to tack on up the other side, but I'm going snowmobiling tomorrow. This will just have to wait!

Finally starting to look like something! It's been a while since I was able to get anything done on it, but found some time this wekend.

It's getting closer!!!

A few more.

Looks like you are moving along a bit with you table. Nice work. Looks like you are restoring somewhere between a 1969-1972 Chevrolet PU truck also.

I kept a 1968 Che. 4 X 4 going for years. I Replaced the Front axle with later mod stuff for the power disc brakes. I liked the older transfer cases in the 4 wheel drives they were all gear & no silent chain to were & begin to slip.

If it's not to much to ask, Please post a pic of your belt reduction detail on your gantry.

Thank you! It's been fun so far! The computer cabinet came today, just don't have the computer to put in it yet :)

It's identical to this one, and I got the shelves too.




Where did you get it and how much did it cost?

Where did you get it and how much did it cost?

I got it from Global Industrial :

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/product/productInfo.web?infoParam.altNumKey=239115GY#resultBody

The cabinet cost $229.00 after a $60 rebate (I got the rebate check Friday). I also got the shelves which was another $39.95 for both sides. Total before the rebate, including shipping was $481.59 ($412.59 total after the rebate).

The one I got is for a flat panel monitor. They also have one for a CRT monitor that is cheaper, $269 ($209 after the rebate):

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/product/productsPerPicGroups.web?picGroupKey=3309&options.parentCategoryKey=128&index=6&catSearchParams.categoryKey=1618&REQ_SUB_CAT=Computer+Cabinets&itemKey=30041549#gridProdAnchor

Looks like you are moving along a bit with you table. Nice work. Looks like you are restoring somewhere between a 1969-1972 Chevrolet PU truck also.

I kept a 1968 Che. 4 X 4 going for years. I Replaced the Front axle with later mod stuff for the power disc brakes. I liked the older transfer cases in the 4 wheel drives they were all gear & no silent chain to were & begin to slip.

If it's not to much to ask, Please post a pic of your belt reduction detail on your gantry.


I'll take some pics of it and post them in the next day or so.

The truck is a 68 C10. I first built the truck about three years ago. I was driving it for the fifth time after finishing it, and a drunk passed me on the left on the on-ramp to the interstate. Wiped out the entire left side! It was a long bed then, and what I had always wanted was a short bed, so after that I found a 71 rolling chassis (front disc brakes!!!) and shortened it to factory SWB specs. It now has all new sheetmetal except for the cab, cowl, and grill.

I have a weakness for the 67-72 GM trucks! Besides this one, I have a 70 Chevy LWB 4x4 that my Dad bought from the original owner back in 73, a 67 GMC LWB small back window, and a 68 Chevy 4x4 that is next up for restoration. My Dad also owns a beautiful 72 C20 2WD.

I dated it as newer than '68 because I could see a side marker light punch out in the left front fender. The 68's didn't have side markers as I recall. Seems to me though I couldn't get 68 fenders I had to weld up the marker holes in later mod. fenders.

Is the TM 1 you are building just powered down 1 side of the X axis, Or is there rack gear on both sides with a jack shaft?

Actually 68 was the first year for the side marker lights. Some of the very early 68's didn't, but GM was just using up the remaining 67 fenders. Goodmark carries all the sheet metal for the 67-72's now, including every part needed to assemble a new bed, except for the grill and cowl. No more welding up 68 fenders!

You are correct, there is a gear rack down both sides. I will be using a 3/4" CCR bar as a jack shaft. I think originally they only powered one side, and you had the option to buy a "dual drive kit". But the kit is now standard with the exception of providing the 3/4" round bar.

I took the pics you requested, and I will resize them tomorrow morning and post them for you.

millman52 - Here are the pics you asked for. I held up some poster board to hide all the background junk in the shop for a better view of the components.

I also threw in a couple of pics of my 68. The first is after I finished her the first time, and second is of the "new" frame after I shortened it, and the third is of her current state.

Forgot to add, I ordered the Arc Voltage Torch Height Control from Torchmate yesterday.

Thanks so very much for the pics. I pretty much confirms the Ideas I have for mine are of good design.

Very nice '68 LWB. I think the looks of the slanted hood & chrome trim grille really sets the '68 apart from the rest. The '68 also has the large rear window. Looks like you are certainly doing a nice job on your current restoration.

Neither of the 68's I owned was even wired for side marker lights. so they must have both been early year production modles.

Thanks for the kind words!

Actually, the 68's were only a reflector, they didn't have the lamp, although there was a provision for them. It wasn't until 69 or 70 that federal law dictated the use of side markers. I cut the pigtails off of an extra harness that I had and wired up the lights. But now I am thinking I will fill them, cause I like the smooth look.

The 67-68 years are my favorite because of the slanted hood and grill, best looking 67-72 made IMHO.

More pictures! I am almost done!!! :wee:

What's left:

* Brace the legs with provisions to remove the braces from one of the long sides to move a table water in and out.
* Cut the material support slats and install them.
* Wait for the THC to arrive and install it.
* Build an arm from one corner of the table that hangs over the middle of the table to hang the cables from.
* Learn how to run the dang thing!!!!!

Hey, looks good. Your fab skills look good and a pretty clean design overall. Are you going to bother painting it? Let us know your results.

btw, I had a 72 Cheyenne for a few years, wish I still had it. I like all the 67-72 trucks, one of gm's best looking designs.

Thank you! I built it pretty much as Torchmate says to from the rails up. I really like the way their kit is set up and the brackets they provide, it has made it a relativley pain free build. I am already thinking about building another in the future now that I have a good concept of how they function (I have never even seen a CNC plasma before this except for pictures). I think it would be fun to build one from scratch of my own design for as little cost as possible. I might also make the next one oxy-fuel.

I love the 67-72 GM's so much, I own a 67 GMC, two 68 Chevy's, and a 70 Chevy. My Dad has a 72 Chevy as well. I am partial to the 67-68's, I love the hood and the grill on those.

I am still slapping myself for selling my old 67 short bed. All factory interior, glass, sheetmetal, etc. for about 300 bucks. I am now building it for the new owner, thankfully from the ground up.

I also have a 69 shorty sitting in my shop getting a slug of work done to it.

Your table looks great! You are making me jealous already!

I was able to basically finish the TM1 this weekend! About all I need to do is run an extra support down the length of the table in the middle to help strengthen the material supports, they kind wobble in the center. I think that might lead to the material wiggling around as the gantry moves around.

I got everything braced up pretty well I think. But instead of bracing the legs on what I call the front (the side of the table facing the middle of the shop), I opted to use a removable leg with a leveler foot on the bottom of it. This will allow me to remove the leg to move in or out the water table when it is completed. If things don't seem as sturdy as I would like, I might build some braces that can be unbolted as well.

Next step: mount the AVTHC once it arrives and see what I can screw up!!

Pulling your slats off a straight line will not only help them from wobbling, It will also help the instances of splitting one of them right down the center on a straight cut with the plasma........ I have noticed many other tables on this board with slats even pulled back & forth in a very slight "S" .............
/
\
/ exagerated but you get the idea.

It's kinda funny, but I always wondered why some pictures I had seen before I started building mine had the slats pulled of center or in the "S" like you say, but now I understand! :D

I have some extra tubing that's a little smaller than what I used to build the table, actually it's rectangular. I think if I use that and mill slots in the narrow width, that should give me the support I need for the slats. And I can keep it the same heigth underneath from the floor to the bottom of the new tube as the heigth from the floor to the bottom of the angle the slats are sitting on. Then I won't have any clearance issues with rolling the water table under there.

I had a funny experience with my slats wobbling at first. I was cutting at about 150 IPM on some sheetmetal, and my table was rocking and clanging at every move. Turns out that having all the slats in a row, straight lined, will allow the whole sheet to move, and then transfer the energy to the rest of the table, scooting it around the shop. I thought the doggone thing was posessed! The casters on the bottom of the legs just exacerbated the problem.
I curved every slat, and welded a bracket or four on that allow the table to bolt to the I beams supporting my shop. No more shaking!
Another lesson learned, I suppose. :)

It's alive!!!!!!!

Well, kind of..... I hooked the motors up last night and fired everything up. Jogged the gantry around on the table much to my delight! Then shut everything down and went back in the house.

Went back out a couple hours later and thought I would tape a Sharpie marker to the torch and draw something. Booted up the Dell and went to open the driver program and got a Windows error message that Windows had encountered and error and would be shutting the program down. ARRGGGGG! :mad:

I tried to open that program at least 100 times, and only got it to work 3 times. Well, on the third time I left it open and everything worked great! I have already mounted the THC so after I started to program to run, I ran to the table on ran the THC up and down inbetween jogging to a new starting point. Everything came out perfect as far as the table moving around where it should. But once I closed the program, it wouldn't open again.

I talked to Mike a TM this morning, and I am going to un-install the driver and re-install it. Mike emailed me the settings that I will need to change, so hopefully it is just having a little fit and I can get it starightened out by reloading the program.

I also have an idea for the carriage, as it is not as solid as I would like it to be. I got two more brackets and four more cam followers from TM, but I don't really like the idea of having 12 cam followers on there. Too many pieces there that could potentially come out of adjustment. I have a couple ideas in my head to either make a new setup, or modify the current one. Whatever I do, I want to keep it simple and clean. I will post pics of whatever I come up with.

BHmfg,

Nice job on your project.

I have been using this same system for 7 years and I'll be the first to say that it works but that is about the extent of it. I have 4 additional cams and adjusting them sucks! I have a water table and the moisture is not a great help to the bearing either.

Torchmate went to linear slides for obvious reasons and I can't blame them.

I know you'd not like to hear this having gone to this much trouble but you might consider copying the TM 80/20 gantry..... you have a fresh clean table and the upfit will be money well spent.

Good luck,

Tom

BHmfg,

I know you'd not like to hear this having gone to this much trouble but you might consider copying the TM 80/20 gantry..... you have a fresh clean table and the upfit will be money well spent.

Good luck,

Tom

Thanks Tom! When I mentioned the idea of two more brackets and four more bearings to Joe @ TM, he immediately sent me the parts I needed at no charge. At first I thought about adding something to the back side of the gantry (CR bar, thick walled pipe, etc,) that had an "arm" that ran from the carriage back to it with some more bearings (!) that rode on the back side of that to keep the carriage from drooping. Clear as mud? LOL, I can picture it in my mind.......

My second idea was to basically use the existing .75" x 2" CR bar, and attach a piece of 3" or 4" CR bar to it that had the top and bottom edges ground to 90* angles, then use v-grooved track rollers (2 top, 2 bottom). Attach the 4 v-grooved rollers to a plate and mount the THC to it.

And third, I have already been considering something like their 80/20 setup. I'm pouring over the McMaster and MSC catalogs for ideas at the moment! :idea:

These guys are my pick... http://automation4less.com/

if I get off my $^%)@$*%&@$ and build a linear slide type gantry.

Very helpful folks too.

Luck,

Tom

Do you think it would be practicle to adapt a linear slide to the existing 2x2 steel gantry?

Until now I had never even though about the possibility but I don't see why it would not work.

The jerking and wiggle I get from my rig is what is a pain. Most of my cutting is 0.375 to 0.75 so I am going slow. When detail is an issue i.e. signs letter etc the smoothness of the linear slide is going to shine through.

Let me ponder on this and I'll comment further.

Tom

I've been looking around their site. I think I can actually mount a linear rail to the 3/4" x 2" CR flat bar, then mount a plate to the linear block that the THC and motor mount would attach to. Then I could still utilize the gear rack already on the CR flat bar. I would definately beef up the brackets that hold up the CR flat bar to keep them from flexing, but that should be easy.

Hmmmm, Plasma Guy, I think you may have helped to sloved my problem!

Thanks,
Bob

Looks like there are several possibilities to mount a linear rail. Looks like you could mount the rail on the front of your CR bar. Then space back your drive assembly. Also from the pic below you might be able to mount similar without moving your drive assembly

It's amazing how rigid even the small 15MM linear assemblies are.

If you do not mind checking, could you measure the distance from the top of your gantry to the top of your cutting slats. I am drawing my plans in AutoCAD before I build and am looking for a basic height demension to begin with, sort of a starting point to then adjust.

Your table looks great and I like the fab/welding table too.

Thanks
Doug

Thanks Perp! I will get you some dimensions soon.

If you do not mind checking, could you measure the distance from the top of your gantry to the top of your cutting slats. I am drawing my plans in AutoCAD before I build and am looking for a basic height demension to begin with, sort of a starting point to then adjust.

Your table looks great and I like the fab/welding table too.

Thanks
Doug

I have 6" built into mine. That's only because I am using Ox/Fuel as well as plasma.

Unless you are using ox or have one heck of a plasma cutter you probably don't need over a couple inches under your gantry. More than that would be helpful if you need to silde metal in when loading your table. I have made my X rails 2' longer than the maximum sheet size I plan to cut. This will allow me to move the gantry completely out of the way.

As far as vertical clearance goes...... to do it all over again I would design as much as practical. I have a 4" max and that has bit me several times. I have had the occasion to need to cut pockets in box tube. This works great on 4" but I'm maxxed out. Six inches would be nice, 8" even better.

What I attempting to say is over build if possible. Just when you think you won't need it you will.:)

Plasmaguy, I must agree. I have stated that very thing recently. Larger & heavier is almost always better.

Thanks for the advice, it is much easier to change heights on paper now then on the machine later. This table will be plenty strong, as i get started I may post a build log as well.

Oops, sorry it took me so long, I kinda forgot :( I have 6" from the top of the slats to the bottom of the 2"x2" gantry.

After looking over the photo that millman52 attached regarding adding a linear rail to my carriage, I have come up with this idea:

Building a new carriage using a linear rail mounted on top of the 3/4" x 2" CR flat bar as in his picture. I will use two bearing blocks (two hole blocks), that will leave room inbetween them for the motor/spur gear to engage the gear rack.

Then use two of the cam follower brackets, one on each side of the carriage that rides front and rear of the CR flat bar; 2 cam followers on the front and 2 on the rear. I feel that this will give me a solid mount with little to no wiggle like I am experiencing now. And, I will only have 4 cam followers to keep adjusted instead of 12.

Ideas, suggestions, comments??

After looking over the photo that millman52 attached regarding adding a linear rail to my carriage, I have come up with this idea:

Building a new carriage using a linear rail mounted on top of the 3/4" x 2" CR flat bar as in his picture. I will use two bearing blocks (two hole blocks), that will leave room inbetween them for the motor/spur gear to engage the gear rack.

Then use two of the cam follower brackets, one on each side of the carriage that rides front and rear of the CR flat bar; 2 cam followers on the front and 2 on the rear. I feel that this will give me a solid mount with little to no wiggle like I am experiencing now. And, I will only have 4 cam followers to keep adjusted instead of 12.

Ideas, suggestions, comments??

What size linear rail are you going to use?

While I can appreciate you wanting no wiggle, I think you will be surprised to find how tight a single linear rail & the matching bearing(s) will be. I too thought of doing something very similar. Once I had the rail mounted & torch carrier built & test fitted together, I was literally amazed. Mine has "0" detectable wiggle by hand on my torch holder carrage to y gantry rail.

I think I would mount the linear rail to my gantry, bearing truck(s) to my carrier & test it without the cam followers. As precision as these rails are. I think if anything, all that will happen with the cam followers is extra drag & possibly some binding. What you have drawn looks good. But I don't think it will work as well in reality as it looks on graph paper.

Just my 2 cents

Do you think I would be better off by ditching the cam followers, and leaving everything else as drawn, or mount the linear rail to the front of the gantry?

Given current funds available, and the way I had it drawn, I was thinking either 15mm or 20mm. And the carrier will be made new, as there are too many brackets on the current one to reuse. So the new one will be minimal size, just whatever will be needed will be all the bigger I will make it.

I agree with Millman. You will be quite surprised at the clean smooth movement, and honestly, the cam followers will just be another part to wear out. Your linear bearing will outlast the cam followers anyway.

Mounting the linear rail to the top or the side shouldn't make too much difference, as long as it is straight, level, and square to the rest of the table.

B Hollow,

I like your design, I too think I would try skipping the cam followers.

I recall that you tack welded your rack to the CRS? I milled a 0.25" groove x .035" deep and Locited my rack in place.

I have a ever-so-slight bow in my gantry as a result of the groove I milled for the rack....my point being that you may have a tight spot with the linear rails trueness and the rack and CRS/gantry being slightly out of parrallel. My guess is that it will be slight.

I can't recall what pitch our rack is but I do know that Tom Caudle and others suggest a courser rack.

I do know that your design is much better than what I have going on now:)

Best,

Tom

Do you think I would be better off by ditching the cam followers, and leaving everything else as drawn, or mount the linear rail to the front of the gantry?

Given current funds available, and the way I had it drawn, I was thinking either 15mm or 20mm. And the carrier will be made new, as there are too many brackets on the current one to reuse. So the new one will be minimal size, just whatever will be needed will be all the bigger I will make it.

I might be wrong with my barnyard reasoning, I think the rail on top is maybe best. I mounted mine on top thinking with ox on one side & plasma on the other the weight of the carrage would be pretty much equal allowing of more even pressure being applied to the bearing truck.

It had even occured to me that maybe even balancing with a counterweight on the lighter side might give better bearing wear &ven though it might be carrying an extra pound or 2.

The way the rails are made I'm not sure it would matter as they are designed for 4 point contact anyway.

as for rail size I used 15 mm because it was used & good price If I were buying new & I could swing the extra money I'd go 20mm MOTTO: bigger is better>>>>

Just an idea.

Neil.

B Hollow,

I recall that you tack welded your rack to the CRS? I milled a 0.25" groove x .035" deep and Locited my rack in place.

I have a ever-so-slight bow in my gantry as a result of the groove I milled for the rack....my point being that you may have a tight spot with the linear rails trueness and the rack and CRS/gantry being slightly out of parrallel. My guess is that it will be slight.


Tom

CRS Has lots of stress built in dur to the rolling process. Anytime you remove metal from CRS (round or flat) you are also removing stress from that part of the piece. Thus the warpage. I learned this the hard way too. If you had turne the bar over & milled the slot in the second side it would have most likely relaxed right back straight.

Thank Neil and others. I actually picked up some 15mm rail today with two 4-bolt bearings. I think I will go ahead and wount it on top. Between the THC on one side and the motor on the other, it should balance out 'close enough.'

Thank Neil and others. I actually picked up some 15mm rail today with two 4-bolt bearings. I think I will go ahead and wount it on top. Between the THC on one side and the motor on the other, it should balance out 'close enough.'

Made any progress on your conversion? Did you think ahead to draw & burn out the new parts you'll need before tearing your gantry down?

Made any progress on your conversion? Did you think ahead to draw & burn out the new parts you'll need before tearing your gantry down?

LOL, yes I did! I drew out the two parts I will need yesterday. As soon as the kiddos lay down for a nap, I will cut the parts out then pull it apart. I got the vice put back on the mill last night and it is ready to drill the mounting holes. Should have everything back together tonight.

LOL, yes I did! I drew out the two parts I will need yesterday. As soon as the kiddos lay down for a nap, I will cut the parts out then pull it apart. I got the vice put back on the mill last night and it is ready to drill the mounting holes. Should have everything back together tonight.


Looking forward to photos. :stickpoke :D

We'll have a beer on it. :cheers:

Mike

WOW!!!! What a difference this little conversion made! Took most all day Saturday, 27 holes drilled, 4 broken taps (2 removed, 2 burried in place), but it's done. I still can't believe how stable those little blocks are. I used 2, one on each side of the motor, and this thing has NO give to it what-so-ever. Glides smoothly back and forth, straight and level all around too. Well worth the extra $$$ spent over the muliple cam follower set-up!

Cut a few pieces Sunday, everything looks great, nice smooth cuts, all lines connected together where they should, no tip bounce.... I love it!

I think I also have most of my settings figured out. Take a close look at the cuts on the new carriage pieces. It is 1/4", and I decided not to smooth the edges with the flapper wheel because I was so happy with how clean the cuts turned out, I wanted to leave them. Almost zero dross on the cuts, just barely hit the top edges to clean them up!

WOW!!!! What a difference this little conversion made! Took most all day Saturday, 27 holes drilled, 4 broken taps (2 removed, 2 burried in place), but it's done. I still can't believe how stable those little blocks are. I used 2, one on each side of the motor, and this thing has NO give to it what-so-ever. Glides smoothly back and forth, straight and level all around too. Well worth the extra $$$ spent over the muliple cam follower set-up!



I would appreciate your posting the manufacturer and the part number/identifier for the 15mm rail that you used in this conversion. Is it a V-guide type?

Also, how consistent is the "backlash" (or lack there of) in the rack and pinion through out the length of the travel over the gantry? Did the rack (or the CRB) warp at all when spot welded in place?

Great pictures. Thanks.

Mike

Mike,

The rail and bearing blocks are made by Hiwin. The part number for the rail is AGR15R, and the flange-type bearing blocks is AGW15CAZOH. According to my straight edge (1/2" x 2" CRB), there is little to no warpage that I can detect. I haven't ran the length of it with a feeler gauge to get specific, but it looks good. When I spot welded the gear rack on, I only tacked one at a time with about 5 minutes inbetween. I wanted to be sure that I put minimal heat into it.

Backlash is very consistant, with the only noticable spot where it increases is at the very end of one side, probably within the last 2" of it's travel. I can deal with that.

Very nice looking conversion. Thanks for all the information you have shared with us, it will save countless hours and $$ by giving all of us a leg up on this upgrade.

Doug

Very nice looking conversion. Thanks for all the information you have shared with us, it will save countless hours and $$ by giving all of us a leg up on this upgrade.

Doug

I agree totally. The information has been very valuable.

One more question, if you don't mind. I have read in other threads that they have gone to heavier frame material in order to avoid table flex, shake, etc. in reaction to gantry/carriage movement. Have you experienced this in your table?

Mike

So far, no, not that I have noticed. At least not to the extent that it is causing a problem. I still want to add horizontal bracing across the legs at the bottom in addition to the cross bracing I already have, and that should solidify it even further.

I'm am on the fence about further stiffening the 3/4" x 2" CRB that the carriage rides on..... it seems like it could flex in the middle during rapid direction changes. After reassembling everything this weekend the carriage was sitting in the middle of the gantry. I grabbed it to show my Dad how tight the new carriage was now, and noticed that the CRB had some flex/wiggle to it (although it was minimal, it still moved). My thinking there is, now that there is no longer cam followers and brackets that need to pass underneath it, I might add a small simple bracket that ties the CRB into the 2" x 2" tube on the gantry. That should totally eliminate any deviation in the middle

Thanks for the comments everyone, it is much appreciated! :cheers:

Blackhollowmfg,

Great skill indeed, and it give me confidence to start on the track you've created

Well, I made one more change/upgrade to the Y-axis drive this weekend. I found out real quick just how "precise" the linear rail is.

I had been cutting on just one side of the table, and went to move the carriage to the other side of the table. About 2/3's of the way over, it stopped moving and locked up. I must only have the rail a few thousands out, but it was enough to stop the solid mounted motor dead in it's tracks! I had moved it back and forth the full length right after I mounted the rail, but had since readjusted the spur gear/motor mount as I found a little too much backlash on one end. So I did some searching on the forum for ideas to spring load the drive and below is what I came up with.

It seems to work great!! Since I had to invert the motor, I needed to change the polarity in FlashCut.

What a huge difference these two modifications made (linear rail and spring loaded drive setup). This thing is now cutting just like I had hoped it would, and even better! Now the holes that I used to cut that came out all goofy looking are now actually nice and round!

BHollow,

Nice work! Now I need to get me rig tricked out like yours!

Good job.

Tom

What a huge difference these two modifications made (linear rail and spring loaded drive setup).

I think I'm leaning towards spring loaded drives on both X & Y. Greolt (CNC Wood Router Project Log) built a great wood router table with some really trick spring loaded drive systems. Looks like the way to go.

Thanks again for the info.

Mike

This project is fantastic.

Thanks for the comments guys! It is really turing out to be a sweet machine.

I am now getting ready to start an addition to my shop to house the table. Space is at a premium right now, so having it's own room off to the side will be nice to free up floor space once again.

Tom - The rail conversion took about 4 hours, and the spring loaded mount took only a couple. Cost for the rail and bearings was $212.50 from www.automation4less.com, and the spring mount was $3.67 for the spring (package of two) from Home Depot. The rest came from the scrap bin.

Thanks again everyone!

Black Hollow,

Your workshop is very neat and tidy. It puts mine to shame.

How do you like the computer cabinet that you got ? Do you have any problems with the electronics getting hot in side? I saw it has a few vents in the back, but I would think it still may get warm in there. Also, how is it doing as far as keeping all the cutting dust and airborne crap out of/off of you stuff? I am really thinking of buying one, I would just like a little real world feedback first.

Thanks

Doug

The only thing that gets dirty it the keyboard and mouse. I am either going to get one of those plastic covers for the keyboard, or get one of the thin flexable ones. That one is kind of hard to describe, but the actual buttons are covers by a single piece of plastic that has raised bunps for the keys. No dust can get inside of it at all.

The cabinet had been great. Everything inside is still clean, and so far it has no been too hot inside. I have been thinking about mounting some small fans inside of the vent openings to pull the air out. It's gonna be hot in the shop one of these days!

Thanks for the Info, I will be buying one of these soon. It can get real hot here in AZ in the summer so I too will be looking for a few fans. I like the keyboard idea, I have seen the thin flexible ones like you mentioned at the local autoparts store.


One more question if you do not mind (open to anyones responses here), how long is the torch cable on your plasma machine? I am ready to buy my cutter, but I can't decide between the 25 or the 50 foot torch. In my head the 25 seems like it will be just a bit short, however the 50 will be about 22 feet to long. any input here would be great. my table will be roughly 6 foot by 12.5 foot outside dimensions.

Thanks for the help

Doug

BTW, your table look awesome, nice work

I'd think filter(s) over the vent holes would be in order if you fan force air out of the cabinet. Force air out air has to come in somewhere.

I'd think filter(s) over the vent holes would be in order if you fan force air out of the cabinet. Force air out air has to come in somewhere.

Ah yes, good point!!! Thank you!

Perp - My torch cable is 25', which is now/will be plenty long for me. I will be putting the table in it's own room soon, and will mount the plasma up on the wall outside of the table's room. Only reason for mounting up on the wall is too keep it off the floor (less clutter) and that will give me an extra 4' or so that can go out towards the table. Although most of it will be suspended above the table.

I may be repeating someone else, but why are you going to attach the material support slats to your table? I'm new at this, but we have large MG plasma machines at work and the slats have to be changed quite often. You make a cut in them every time the cutter crosses the support slats.
Am I overlooking something?

I got it from Global Industrial :

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/product/productInfo.web?infoParam.altNumKey=239115GY#resultBody

The cabinet cost $229.00 after a $60 rebate (I got the rebate check Friday). I also got the shelves which was another $39.95 for both sides. Total before the rebate, including shipping was $481.59 ($412.59 total after the rebate).

The one I got is for a flat panel monitor. They also have one for a CRT monitor that is cheaper, $269 ($209 after the rebate):

http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/product/productsPerPicGroups.web?picGroupKey=3309&options.parentCategoryKey=128&index=6&catSearchParams.categoryKey=1618&REQ_SUB_CAT=Computer+Cabinets&itemKey=30041549#gridProdAnchor

Thanks for the heads up on the cabinet. the second I seen this one I ordered it. I was tired of having my stuff on a rolling cart. I could NOT find anything locally. Good price, but the frieght KILLED me. $138 for shipping. Almost felt like running up to Las Vegas and picking it up, But I'm sure that trip would cost me more once I hit Vegas lol

Thanks again!

hi

very nice job indeed

cheers

I may be repeating someone else, but why are you going to attach the material support slats to your table? I'm new at this, but we have large MG plasma machines at work and the slats have to be changed quite often. You make a cut in them every time the cutter crosses the support slats.
Am I overlooking something?

The supports are attached to the table, not the slats themselves. They are pinched between two 3/8" roll pins. They can be lifted out and turned upside down when they get too chopped up. Then they can be pulled out and replaced.

I like the way you did that with the roll pins and the angle. I'm just getting my torchmate 2 table together and like the way you did it over the factor version. thanks
balto

I like your table, nice job. How is it working out for you? How much do you have invested in it? Wich plasma are you using? sorry for the ????, I'm looking into one myself.

Great Thread. I am about to order a kit. I want the router kit. I talked to a Pete Abernethy at Torchmate this afternoon. I believe this is the way to go.
Steve

You have done a great job on this build, with some very good pictures to help the rest of us who are, or might be building one of these things in the future. I just ordered my TM 1 kit from Josh yesterday and asked for it to be shipped after christmas because of all the holliday stuff going on, and my work load right now. Your pictures make it very clear how all the parts relate to each other , Thanks for the time you spent doing this. I'll let everyone know how my build goes once I get started, sometime in January. Isn't this a great Forum. Merry Christmas everyone, and have a safe Holiday. ShapenFab in good old washington state.....:-)

Welcome aboard Shapenfab. Good luck with your build. I think the Mod. Blackhollow made using precision rail on the gantry is worth while. I'm not knocking the TM 1 as designed. It will work as is, many of them out there working now. It's just my opinion thet the precision rail really converts the TM1 to first class for what it's designed to do.

Hi Bob
love the build its promted me into building a small 4x4 one of my own at last, after many years of thinking about it. I have read your thread and many others many times and taken in most of the comments, now I have finaly drawn one up taking ideas from all over the place I like the idea of a light aluminium beam with a 25mm hiwin rail with a single wide carrage, over a 60x60mm box frame with a 75mm cold rolled top track, with dual motors on the "X" axis (if I can work it out) the electronics seem to be a bit of a mystery to me at the moment, no doubt it will become clearer, eventualy, as will Mach3, with a MP1000C-THC if I can get one shipped to here, I just dont quite understand what else I will need at the moment, but as with every thing else bu the time I need them I possibly will.

I have a few questions I would like to ask you

what DP are the gear racks you used? and the diameter of the pinion gear?
Im going to use 54t and a 16t xl belt drive with a 70t belt, that gives me a reduction of 3.375:1 what did you use? I have drawn all the motor mounts so they can be spring loaded against the rack they only have at the extreme ends of movement 3/8in in the pinion gear to allow for any "Tight" spots or backlash

there are some 1.86Nm - 263oz or some 3Nm - 425oz Stepper motors on ebay uk both size 23 which would be best? there is less than $10 difference in price

any comments will be apreciated I need all the help I can get, but please dont flame me too much we all started somewhere

this was last years project
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/lleskam/DSCF0243.jpg
as was this my hydraulic conversion to a JD2 bender
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t311/lleskam/DSCF0347.jpg
See Im quite good at somethings
Thanks

Steve