I never ran the 190s. I am still running the original 24v 12amp power supply.

Nice find! Right now I don't have decent air but it's one of my priorities. The air mist systems I was looking at were in the $200 range so this would be a huge improvement.

Will the mist clear out the chips?

Probably not. I would have to run a second air line with a high pressure nozzle for that.

If you need a cheap air compressor here's what you do,

1. Get a york 210 a/c comp off of a wreck in a salvage yard (20-50$) Make sure the clutch works (cordless drill battery works great for this) The used ones have about a 75% chance of working, so if you get 2 you have 150% chance of success.
2. Pull the head and tap and plug the oil port (a/c systems constantly circulate oil, not good for an air compressor)
3. Get an old propane tank, PURGE IT VERY WELL!!! and use it as the reciver
4. Get a pressure relife valve good for 10 scfm (this comp, with enough power will put out over 400psi)
5. Get a pressure switch
6. Use an oil filter on the intake of the comp (you may need to take the fitting to your favorite auto store and match a filter up, it will thread right on)
7. Get some hydralic hoses made up, I think a #8 fitting fits most compressors
8. Find a 220v 3hp (min) to 5hp (insane overkill) motor for cheap
9. get some pulleys and belts
10. Build a manifold with 2'' shd 40 pipe about 2' long threaded on both ends, capped, and then you drill and tap pipe threads in the pipe.
11. Get a sturdy base sitting on hockey pucks
12. Hook it all up

Since you love e-bay, this whole setup would probably be under $200

I built a system for my pickup using the york, and it worked sweet.

Here's your motor

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26198&item=3830051579&rd=1

DSL PWR,

Do you have any pictures of this compressor you built?
How do you purge any water that collects in the propane tank?

Sorry I didn't mean to hijack this thread. :cheers:

I have pics... I only need to find them:)

You mount the tank upside down and run a hose to the manifold (step 10), and make sure you have a drain valve on the tank.

CF:Look into the health issues with mist systems......

The "Fog Buster" systems look like they could be a useful thing in regards to this.

Ok my comp pics are in the gallery, and yes it's a cummins.

It was good talking to you Mark. Hopefully I can make a run to Home Depot tomorrow for the materials for the enclosure.

Here is one of the parts planned for tomorrow. No, it's not for me. A friend of mine who helped pay for the machine would get a kick out of it though.

CF Brass knuckles?

Aluminum first. I'll eventually machine some brass copies though. Any advice on how to machine it?

Made of brass by any chance? Never mind I posted too slow. If I remember my machining course from high school brass machines easier, and cleaner than aluminium.

Perchance, is his name Guido?

-- Chuck Knight

No, his name is probably " Knuckles". :D LOL

So how's production going? Now that you've been running for a while what would you do different on your machine\software setup?

As far as the machine, there are a few changes I am in the middle of making. One is buying an aluminum base so I can have a tapped hole matrix for part hold downs.

I couldn't be happier with the software end. Attached is a 1/2 scale MP5 which I am about to machine. That's 100,000 lines of G code generated from the IGES model in about 10 minutes of programming.

Cool, post some pics when it is done.

Here is the vise I just bought. It was essential because I'll be doing some accurate 3+2 machining.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3832031514

Machined my first plastic part today. It's soooo smooth compared to that bit munching aluminum I've been working with.

1/4 Lexan.

Looks great CF !

Can you post how you held it during each phase of the machining?

CF,

What program are you using to generate you G Codes from CAD drawings and IGES files?

IJ, for sheet parts like this I drill 4 holes at the edges of the material and bolt it right into my table top.

I'm using Onecnc Mill Advantage. Check out my review for more details. http://www.coldfusionracing.com/CNC/Onecnc.htm

CF: So you cut the holes first then do the outline?

If I understand correctly you allow clearence between the bolts and the workpiece for the cutter to pass between them?

If so what happens at the end of the cut does it chatter or grab once there isn't much parent material holding it?

Yeah. I add the holes in CAM and allow for the proper spacing. I have had a few problems with that. If you plan ahead of time and have access to a toolpath simulation that problem can be solved though with a few tweaks.

Update:

The machine is running great! I'm holding .001-.002 on a daily basis. Most of the work I've been doing is in Lexan and Delrin with a little 1/8 aluminum every couple weeks. OneCNC has been preforming great with only one rapid gouge out of 30 cycles (probably my fault). For a base I've been using 1" MDF with a hole grid drilled all the way through. After elevating the whole machine a foot off the ground I can put a bolt through the stock and thread a locknut on the bottom side.

CF: I noticed you were using lexan for the control arms ? Is that a weight thing?

How will they go with impact strength?

I used to race 1/8 scale fuel on and off road cars awhile back :)!

Nah, Lexan was just for mockup. The production ones will be in Delrin and Aluminum.

What model did you have?

CF: I started with a Serpent Quattro then a Serpent Sprint 6000 then changed to a Koyosho Blitz, my Offroader was a Turbo Burns.

I modded all of my own motors and had 5 different ones in rotation depending on track condition.

I had $1000 in spares that came to the races with me but was lucky with fuel as a mate of mine ran a top fuel Funny car at the time so I could get my nitro from him and made a few $ selling my mix to others.

I gave it away when I realised my budget for a year would have allowed me to run a real formula V for a year ;)!

So - IJ did 'ya get into Formula V? Always wanted to get into formula - but I bent my buddy's and spent a summer paying off the damage! I wanna build up a C or D class once I get a bunch of the Honeydos behind me. Thats one of the {hidden} cnc files - build a body and all the chassis bits. I watch you guys on the rc with envy at least you get to play! BTW - CF - when a full scale? -- oops repeating myself there -
Cheers Guys - Jim

A full scale of my Truggy project would be so awesome. It would be possible but not on my cnc router. Anyone have a 4x8 they will let me use for 6 months?

Here is a picture of the truggy in cad and real life.

High Seas: Nah I was a fabricator on a Race team and that was enough for me ! (Money Pit to the extreme)

Awesome thread. I read the entire thing just now. Nice coverage of the entire process.

CF: How much did that version of OneCNC cost you?

Thanks!

The express package costs $1500 and the Advantage costs $3000.

I can't wait to see the finished product C.F..

I'm still working on my router but hope to have it done by then end of September. (knock on wood) :)


I think the prices of OneCNC is abit higher now though. When I had my online demo of the software, which was very impressive by the way, I was told those prices were only good till the end of August as a limited time special but then they would be going up. It was more money that I could afford so I could not buy it at the time.

Carl :)

It's getting close to done. I just need to machine a few more Delrin bearing carriers (shown in blue) and it'll be ready to go! The proposed brushless system is a Hacker 10L which pulls 75 amps at 20v. That thing is a beast even in a big truck so I can't imagine what it will do in mine.

The cnc router is preforming well. I've been feeding aluminum with a 4fl Carbide at 10ipm .07DOC and it's so quiet I could talk on the telephone while standing next to it. This can't be said for the 2fl bits which chatter more.

One of the problems that I still face is the dang chips. I was machining a .375 deep slot cut with multiple passes and on the last pass the bit loaded up and broke beause of not enough chip ejection. I know that a lower flute count will give me better results on ejection but my machine loves 4fl and the vibration free machining they give.

I feel like I've rambled on long enough tonight so now I'll retire to ebay looking for a mist coolant system.

CF: I setup an air blower that is run by the controller, I give it a 2 second blast between the roughing and finish cuts to clear the chips!

Done with a set of mounts for Dan S.

those look great. all nice and shiny. :banana: :banana:

DMG Designs (Mark) came over today and we milled out his motor mount plates. Of course my router, which had been happy munching at 1/2 aluminum all week, decided to through a fit when we did his C channal 6061 pieces. I guess it was the vibrations that tore up my end mills. Eventually we got it done though.

I'm still looking for an aluminum tabletop. If anyone has a spare 30x30 piece of 1/4 aluminum that they don't need I'll take it off your hands;)

CF, you have done an amazing work on that machine! I'm impressed! It would be great with some overall pictures of the finished machine, and if possible, a video on it in action (both closeups on motors and slides and also some overview shots). How much have it cost you (software, hardware, electronics, tools etc.)?

Arvid

I'll be doing a job in 1/4 aluminum tomorrow and that will do nicely for some video clips.

The machine in total cost me $1400 and about 300 hours of building and designing time. I'll type out a cost sheet later tonight and post it.

Here is the completed piece. The 7075 T6 is sort of stringy but cut nicely with my 1/4 and 1/8 4fl bits.

http://s91708204.onlinehome.us/other/rustlermilled3.jpg http://s91708204.onlinehome.us/other/rustlermilled4.jpg

All I can say is, "fantastic work C.F.". :cheers:

I am very impressed. This goes to prove what a person can achieve when they put their minds to it and really think things out. No matter how young they are. I think alot of other teenagers, not to mention some of use adults can really learn a thing or two from you. Keep up the good work and please post some more video when you get a chance. :banana:

BTW....How long did it take to machine that part of the chassis and how many tool changes did you need to make?

Carl

www.coldfusionracing.com/CNC/1.AVI

I'm sorry for the bad camera work. There was a TON of aluminum shooting everywhere (which the camera didn't show) and I was being burned by it.

It took about 90 minutes with 2 different tools. It could have been done in 45 minutes but since it was an expensive aluminum sheet and it's a custom piece for a customer I decided to be safe rather then sorry.

Thanks everyone for the kind words!

Very nice, I'm impressed that the machine is ridge enough to cut metal.

CF, thanks for sharing the AVI file and the photos.

A safety note, be real careful when wearing gloves around machinery with turning components. This could be the spindle, router, or even the ball screws. Many people have had their glove caught and before you can blink, its wound up tight, sometimes causing the loss of a finger or two.

Again, thanks for sharing.

Trent

Wow, it's been a busy couple weeks. School/Business doesn't leave much spare time to actually work on the machine itself. That changed Friday though. I got in 50 pounds of aluminum for a big upgrade. The mdf base was replaced with a 1/4 thick 6061 plate. The gantry pieces were replaced by a SOLID 30x5x1.5 slab. I'm in the process of drilling and tapping all the holes on that piece now.

The whole machine has been elevated from floor level to about 3' off the ground. This was done with 8x8x16 concrete blocks. Afterword I evened up the rough surface with a leveling compound then set the base on top of that. Soon I will pick up some 5" long bolts to run through the base and into the concrete. This will lock the aluminum into 700lb of concrete.

After the machine is running again I'll be machining a new 4 bolt ballscrew mount for the X axis as well as a shop vac hose mount.

In a week or so I'll have my splash gaurd setup. This will consist of 1/8 lexan running around the perimeter of the base. All the seams will be sealed and then a drainage tube run to the corners. Hopefully it will allow me to use a modest flood cooling system.

Just took this picture. Yes, it's a wreck in there but I haven't had time to cleap up.

It just keeps gettin' better! :)

I didn't thank you for posting the video; thanks! :cheers:

How does the ball screws and timing belts hold up to all the aluminium chips?

What RPM, feed, and cutter dia were you using during the video-cut? I have heard that, if the machine can take it, it if often better to use faster feed/lower RPM (gives better surface quality and tool life because of less heat). Have you done any experiments with different feed rates/RPMs?

Arvid

I'll have a nice edited video with audio as soon as I get a hold of my friend's digital video camera.


The ballscrews and timing belts are not affected in the least by the aluminum chips. The big problem though is the wood dust. Whenever I cut stuff like MDF I end up with a layer of sticky greasy dust coating the screws. This hasn't slowed my X and Y too much because those have wipers on the nuts. The Z however got pretty bad. I had to disassemble the whole thing and clean it out the mess.

That was .075 DOC with a 4FL 1/4 Carbide at 8ipm. I have cut at that DOC up to 15ipm. The limiting issue seems to be my end mills. They aren't designed to be run at 10k rpms and slow feeds. 3 flute have been the best for me as far as removal rate although the finish isn't close to a nice 4 flute. I've played with and broken plenty of 1/8 end mills and so far the 4FL seems to like about 10ipm.

I've got a couple new rocket style (60 Degree helix) 1/4 End mills which I will be trying tonight. These are designed to mill SS and Titanium with lower cutting force being applied to the face of the end mill due to the larger number of flutes engaging it. We'll see how it works in aluminum with my standard feeds.

You should add a vacuum to you router, it'll take care most of dust and alum. chips

CF,

Did you ever get to finish the second router mount?

I can’t wait to see the new video clip; I have a lot of them downloaded and save to my hard drive. I must have about a dozen now.

Wow! This is such a beautiful machine. Eventually, this is what I want my set-up to be like. Major Kudos! :cheers:
(Any more work done on the MP5 model?)

For you and everyone else: Why, oh why, don't you guys melt you Alum. chips down and cast some bars to machine more parts from!! It's pretty easy! (http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/) :cool:

Dan, I have not yet. Life is just crazy right now. I barely have time to complete projects for my paying customers, let alone anything for myself:(

There is a little bit of a possibility that I could part with this machine. Originally my plan was to do production work in Lexan, which it works great in. The problem is that I now need to do higher speed production work in 1/2 aluminum. It works fine with aluminum that thick, but it's slow compared to a Bridgeport. If I were to sell the whole thing as a ready to run unit, minus the computer, how much do you think would be a fair price?

Here is a picture of the latest work. I milled all those pieces in one day.

http://www.coldfusionracing.com/Truggy/FR.jpg

CF

I understand the craziness. I don’t know if I would get rid of your machine right away. What is the limiting factor? Are your steppers not strong enough or machine not rigid enough? You can get cheap servos, and since you already have cnc at your disposal, you can build a bulletproof machine. People will probably give me crap about this, because I don’t have a machine yet, and I’m not a machinist, but after talking my ideas through thoroughly, with my father who started out life as a tool maker. I believe a rigid aluminum machine should have no problem ripping through aluminum.

If I use the information from niaggracutter this is what is within the rpm range of a router cutting aluminum.

Dia 0.250
Flutes 3
Coating TiCN
Pass Type Finishing
Cut Type Peripheral

Step Over 0.0500
Cut Depth 0.1

IPM 81.6
RPM 10,620
MRR 0.41
HP 0.102


So if you look at the MRR if you ran your machine continuously at this rate for 24 hours you would remove 590 cubic inches of aluminum.

Let us know what you think is wrong, I’m sure someone will be able to help.

-Dan

Well, the first problem is the spindle. Let's face it, the Porter Cable won't last very long hogging that much material. I know from personal experience that there is NO way you will be able to mill that fast on a hobby machine in aluminum.


The drive system is not the problem at all. Even with a high lead screw I have enough torque to snap a 1/4 end mill easily.

Basically it boils down to the fact that my machine is still geared more towards a hobby, instead of production. It's highly accurate, but still slow.

Well, the first problem is the spindle. Let's face it, the Porter Cable won't last very long hogging that much material. I know from personal experience that there is NO way you will be able to mill that fast on a hobby machine in aluminum.


The drive system is not the problem at all. Even with a high lead screw I have enough torque to snap a 1/4 end mill easily.

Basically it boils down to the fact that my machine is still geared more towards a hobby, instead of production. It's highly accurate, but still slow.

So, invest in a better spindle? Still cheaper that a prebuilt CNC machine.
Even if you kill your current one making that parts for a better one - you're still ahead of the game.

Cold Fusion, to your question. I'd say your machine is worth anywhere from $2000 to $3000.

But if I have to spend $1000 for a better Perkins or Komo spindle, why not just invest that into a bigger machine?

If I were to take that money from selling the router, plus the money I would plan on using for a better spindle, I could buy myself a decent Bridgeport....

CF

I haven’t looked at this allot, but from what I have read and talked to people about, the limiting factor of the porter cable seems to be the bearings. If this is true maybe it is possible to modify the router for better bearings, though I doubt it.

I would agree with JavaDog if the machine is rigid enough, and you have enough power and torque from the steppers it will still cost allot less to make a better spindle, than to buy a Bridgeport and convert it to cnc or buy one already set up for cnc.

When you think about, a spindle is nothing more than tuff as nails bearings, with a piece spinning inside of them, holding the endmills, and a motor driving it. You have a great motor in the router; maybe there is a way to gear it to a homemade spindle.

-Dan

You all may be right, but it sure would be nice to have 3000 pounds of cast iron keeping everything together.

Quick note on that Dan, the other problem is the rpms. To achieve a "proper" chip load at 10,000 rpms, you would have to be milling extremely fast, much too fast for any hobby machine.

CF

Here is an ok Bridgeport, there allot of these 9 x 42 for sale on eBay this one is at the lower end of the price scale I have seen newer ones go for around 7 or 8 k. Here are few things you might want to think about.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=12584&item=3850145081&rd=1


1. this machine was built in 1972(its older than I am)
2. I’ll bet money its 220/440 V 3 phase (I hope your home/shop is wired for this)
3. it weights 2000 lbs (how are you going to move it)
4. the table rides on dovetails (its going to need massive servos to move the table)
5. its work area is 30” X 12” X 5” ( If I remember correctly that’s smaller than your machine)

After saying all that, it can be done, I believe members of the forum have done it but I don’t think you will get by for under $8,000.

-Dan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3838430264&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT

That was absolutly perfect:(

I remember reading an article on a web site of someone who had made their own high performance spindle. I'll see if I can find it, but I think it might have been that guy that did the home bearing castings.... not sure.

Anyway, it was a tube with bearings at both ends, collet at the bottom and pulley at the top. Then a high speed motor and timing belt spun it up.

One advantage would certainly be that you could maintain it / rebuild it yourself.

Phil

http://www.cnconabudget.com/index.html

This is the web site. The spindle is for cutting pcb boards and is about 1/3rd the way down the first page. Perhaps something similar could be built for routing.

Phil

CF,

What (item(s)) do you attribute to the accuracy of your machine?


Phil

The leadscrews are the main reason. I have precision ground preloaded on both the X and Y.

Seeing as how I may be buying a 12,000 pound bridge mill in the near future, I would like to inform everyone that this machine will probably be sold. Right now I'm considering $2500 for the complete cnc machine, porter cable router, control computer, custom collet from Jeff, complete pre wired electronics system, and various end mills. Anyone that is interested can post here or give me an email. I'm located in Houston, Texas and would consider meeting halfway if anyone is close to me. If not I'll split UPS shipping with you.

Oh yes, I forgot I sold you my extra fixed collet. have you used it? What did you think?

It's been through a lot of milling and I'm very happy with it. Even after a heavy 3 hour job in aluminum I found that it was still clamped perfectly. My only encountered problem is that after time the set screw will strip out due to the small size. I retapped the hole for an M5 and it's been great since then.

Yes! I was thinking that the set screw was too small as well.

Will you be selling them in the future? It seems the PC is the best router for the job but like we all know, it lacks a decent production 1/8 collet.

Does anyone in the Houston Texas have a spare 15,000 pound forklift that they would be willing to bring over for a day?

Ok C.F.. What did you buy, that is so heavy that you need a 15,000 lb. rated forklift? A CNC milling machine perhaps? ;)

I tried to. The deal went south this afternoon. Seller upped his price and shipping+3 phase converter just was too much for me. Now I'm looking at some Hurco knee mills which are closer and smaller.

That is too bad. I am sure you will find what your looking for eventually.
Are you trying to find something that is already setup for CNC or do you plan on doing a conversion to a manual mill?

Most likely something that already has cnc.

Today I did my first large quantity of parts (large is a relative term). 25 wheels hexes. Each took about 4 minutes to do. I've been finding out that the PC router is not so much to blame, but my tooling. After switching from a 4 flute 1/8 to a 2 flute it cuts a lot faster and with less vibration but surface finish could be better. The funny thing is, I have the exact opposite effect when I am using 1/4. I think that the 1.75HP just isn't suited to removing that much material at a time, approx. 4x more per pass with a 2 flute.

Have you tried tooling made to be used with routers for cutting aluminum. Check out http://www.onsrud.com. They have a catalog of tooling just for aluminum. The downside is that the price is quite a bit more than most endmills, but they may make a big difference.

Have you tried tooling made to be used with routers for cutting aluminum. Check out http://www.onsrud.com. They have a catalog of tooling just for aluminum. The downside is that the price is quite a bit more than most endmills, but they may make a big difference.

That site is great! Nice tooling, not too bad cost wise (but not cheap!).

Also, their speeds and feeds chart is great!

CF,
Before you trade your router for a milling machine, try these end mills from www.Travers.com They are designed for cutting alum with a router.
Type this part# H21-101-213 into the quick order entry on left side of page. They also have a few other sizes, 1/16, 1/8, 3/16 etc... to 1/2" There all under the part# H21-101-2XX from 200 - 217. Use the SFA type for alum, these have a small corner radius.

I started running them on my machine. They are GREAT! Never clog on 6061 alum. Don't need to run coolant with them but a steady stream of compressed air to blow the chips out of the cut helps. I conservatively get 35 IPM at .030 DOC

InventIt, Have you tried those mills on plastic's like Lexan? I need to make a part out of 1/2" lexan and am wondering what type of mill I should use? Those ones fromTravers look like they might do the job. I have a 1/4", four flute solid carbide endmill but I'm afraid it might just get clogged up with swarf if I try to use it. I don't have any coolant system on my machine.

Beezer, I ran them through lexan and pvc. They work GREAT! The large polished flute helps to clear the chips out of the cut. Also keeps the cut cool and prevents the plastic from melting. Ran about 35 ipm at .050 on a 1/4" cutter.

BTW, They do have a sharp cornered version for plastics (SFP) but the radius is so small on the alum version that I would just stick with the alum cutter (SFA) The advantage of a radius corner is to prevent chipping the corner of the bit.

That is great. I might just need to order a couple to try out. :)l

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to order a 1/4 and a 1/8 Monday and will let you know how they do.

Yeh, I think you guys will like these cutters. I have been happy with them.

This router is now for sale. Check out my ad in the classifieds.

That is great. I might just need to order a couple to try out. :)l

Those do look great, add me to the list that will be buying some! Good find InventIt. :cheers:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7511041913

One last part before I ship it. Quilted Maple with a few coats of boiled linseed oil.


http://www.coldfusionracing.com/01010099.jpg
http://www.coldfusionracing.com/01010100.jpg

Nice work C.F..

BTW....Why are you selling your router? Did you find yourself a fullsize CNC mill?



On another note. Those of you that are interested in those solid carbide, single flute router mills mentioned a few threads ago. I found a seller on ebay selling various sizes of them. He is actually the manufacturer. The only thing is that they are only available in metric sizes so you would need to make a metric collet adapter for your router to use them unless you are lucky enough to find a metric collet to fit your router. They are auctioned off in lots of 5 but you would end up paying less for 5 metric mills then you would if you bought one imperial size from Travers Tools or another retailer. I bought some myself and they appear to be really well made.
Just thought I would share the link with everyone who might be interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=58224&item=7512649331&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Carl :wee:

.... unless you are lucky enough to find a metric collet to fit your router.

Porter Cable makes 6, 8, 10, and 12mm collets, as well as 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2". They all fit most of their routers.

I found a Series II Bridgeport locally that is perfect for a retrofit. It's 6000 pounds of Iron at an amazing price. The controller fried a long time ago, so it's been sitting in the shop doing nothing. This means the ways and screws are in great shape. I'll be using some Slo-Syn drivers with Mach2 to bring it back to life. Of course I'll post all of the progress on the Zone :)

Most metric sizes will be close enough that the collet will actually compress enough to hold it.

I have been trying to find those porter cable metric collets but no luck finding anyone localy that carries them. Any idea on how much they cost?

I wish I had more room for a full size mill or I would have bought one awhile ago.
I am fortunate that I work in a machine shop where I can use the machines anytime I want so I am not in any desperate need to buy one myself yet, but if one comes along for a great price I might just be tempted. Only thing is I would need to also buy a phase converter to be able to run the mill at home and they are not that cheap.

Carl

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004WMRT/qid=1115522812/sr=8-14/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i14_xgl60/104-4037697-8409561?v=glance&s=hi&n=507846

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00004WMRS/qid=1115522812/sr=8-15/ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i15_xgl60/104-4037697-8409561?v=glance&s=hi&n=507846

I got a really nice 7.5HP VFD on Ebay for only $220. There are good deals if you really look.

Thanks for those links C.F.. I found the number for an authorized Porter Cable repair center down here and I will be calling them next week to find out pricing on the collets.

I look forward to seeing and reading about the progress on your Bridgeport retro fit. Good luck with it. :D

Carl

Hi cold fsion,

I am part way through building a router using 1 inch steel bar, there must be some deflection but i cannot measure it, i am using case hardend R60 steel bar in 1000mm lenths details can be found on my site www.foundry-fopars.co.uk

So far i have the X and Z axiis bulit and i am now starting on the "Y", the Z axis is probably over complicated but it works well

CNCEzee

bad spelling come as standard