Okay, not sure where to ask my question so I'll try here.

Could this be done on a standard 3-axis mill or it would requiere a 5-axis?

At worst, could this be done on a 3-axis even if it's not perfectly clean, I could smooth it myself.

Thanks

http://www.foxspeedshop.com/fabrication/manifold-flange2.jpg

http://www.foxspeedshop.com/fabrication/manifold-flange.bmp

Yes can be done relatively easy on a 3-axis machine, use a 1/8" ball nose for the round over, then use a 1/4" endmill to cut out, or use the 1/4" cut it out then use a router with roundover bit to smooth out centers.

Nice, thank you very much.

I really wish I knew all that. I'm a welder-fitter but I think I'll get back to school for a machinist degree.

What is the material? Something like that in aluminum is quite easy if the corner radius is a standard size so it is possible to use a router bit.

Mild steel would be possible although many people cringe at the idea of cutting steel with a wood working bit. For this it is best to get a 1/2" shank bit; 1/4" shanks tend to shear off just at the holder. :)

And run it a good sight slower than would be used for wood.

Material would be aluminum.

So I could have the part cut on whatever (laser, mills or waterjet) with straight hole and use a 3/8" router bit to make them?

Hummm I really start to like this. :)

I have a program that will generate the G-Code to create a continuous helix to cut-out the bell-mouths
Can you supply a cross-section with dimensions.

Most tooling suppliers will be able to either provide a 'router-bit' style cutter for Aluminium or steel, or they will at least know of a local tool house that can do a custom grind (we call them 'corner rounders').
But it's very easy to do on a 3-axis, to answer your question.

Corner radius bits (made for working metals, including steel) are on sale right now at Enco in the Hot Deals section...

-Jeff

Material would be aluminum.

So I could have the part cut on whatever (laser, mills or waterjet) with straight hole and use a 3/8" router bit to make them?

Hummm I really start to like this. :)

You should get some quotes but I think you will find waterjet expensive, laser will need a big machine for aluminum and it does not leave a nice finish and it also will be expensive. Milling them straight from bar stock or plate is likely the best way. How many are you doing?

Thanks for the reply everyone!

Sure, I will get some quotes before doing anything.

In fact, I'm currently starting my company, designing my products and building prototype so when I need something to be machined it's usualy one unit. I had a set of stainless steel 1/2" thick flanges made on RFQwork.com.

That part is for an intake manifold prototype I'll be building around late March.

This summer I'll try to find a job as a GTAW and GMAW welder in a machine shop. This way I could learn a bit more about machining and have great deal on my own parts. I wish there was machinist class shorter than 2 to 3 years. Anyone aware of anything? I'm a french Canadian but wouldn't mind going to school in english about anywhere in North America.

.... I wish there was machinist class shorter than 2 to 3 years. Anyone aware of anything? I'm a french Canadian but wouldn't mind going to school in english about anywhere in North America.

I suggest going the learn yourself route. Get a job as a machine shop helper, parts loader or something. Keep your eyes open, work steadily, listen to people, read books, think about your questions and see if you can find answers yourself before asking people. It does not matter what machinist class you go to you will have to spend quite a while get real experience. If you start in a shop you can to some extent overlap the experience and the learning. Some time in the future you will probably want to go and get some proper book learning if only to counter all the contradictory nonsense you will get from some of the 'old hands'. But by then you will have enough background you will be able to select suitable courses and do it in a concentrated manner at night school and part time.

And move West Young Man as they used to say decades ago :) . There are plenty of vacancies out here and the weather is nicer.

Depending on the corner radii and the thickness of the plate, drill the holes first and if possible, use a corner radius roundover bit made for metals available thru MSC
Steve

(I must have missed it somewhere)
What are the plate, radius, and hole dimensions & what type of aluminum material?

joe2000
I haven't seen the dimensions of the port holes but I don't imagine any smaller than 1'' (25.4mm) so I'm asking why you recommend a 1/8'' dia ball mill to machine the convex faces.
I would have thought a larger cutter (eg. 3/8" -1/2'') would take less time and give a better finish.
Put me right if I'm missing something.

Port holes are a 1.5". Material is most likely to be 6061. Plate is 3/8" with a 3/8" radius.

Fox Speedshop
Are you requiring a toolpath for the port radius?
If yes, advise the ballnose cutter diameter you wish to use.
Kiwi

Kiwi,

Heh, I wish I had access to a mill to do it myself! However I was just asking that question because I'll have this parts to be machined around March and was in fact wondering if I could go see a local small (read really small) machine shop which only have a 3-axis CNC Mill.

Thank you very much for your offer though. :)