Well here I am, bitten by the CNC bug. First its a CNC Foamcutter, now a Router. Besides cutting wings, I've had equal fun cutting foam art. See the example below.

First off, a big thanks to jgro for the most excellent plans. Its been said by many folks in this forum, and I'll repeat it again. Wow, the plans are great, easy to understand, read, and simple to build.

I started with the two base assemblies. They went together easy, cutting the components with the table saw. The two subassemblies are glued but not nailed. I'm likely to use drywall screws instead of nails. Is that ok, or should I just use nails?

Not much to see yet. I'll make some progress in the evenings this week. But I have only Monday thru Friday to work on it, then a two week break, as I'll be travelling for work.

Me and a co-worker (John Miller) got the CNC router bug while discussing CNC topics at the coffee pot. Its entirely Johns fault that I'm building this table. John is also building a jgro. I'm hoping that John will show us his progress as well. By the way, John is a far better craftsman then I, so we can expect a higher grade of work from him.

Wish me luck.
Dave

Hey Dave, I recognize you from RCSE. I've caught the bug with this CNC router stuff, too. What are your plans to use the router for...DLG wings ala the Encore? Or bigger stuff?

Mike

Mike,
Jon Stone is a fellow NASF club member. As you know, a great guy. I cut that foam trophy for him and will present it to him on Tuesday. So, if you see him on RCSE, please don't tell him about my creation. Too many Jons/Johns in this world. Too many Daves also.

Its a small world!
take care,
Dave

Hey Dave, I've caught the bug with this CNC router stuff, too. What are your plans to use the router for...DLG wings ala the Encore? Or bigger stuff?

Mike

Mike,
I'm planning to cut and bag a 3 meter. I'll probably use the Supra airfoils and planform. Then, add a big carbon spar and bag it. Too bad though, this CNC router project is putting a big delay into those build plans. I've also cut a couple DLG wings for a buddy, but the 3 meter is my next big build project. If, that is, I can clear my head of this CNC router bug. (not likely to happen).
Dave

Hey Dave, I recognize you from RCSE. I've caught the bug with this CNC router stuff, too. What are your plans to use the router for...DLG wings ala the Encore? Or bigger stuff?

Mike

I'm likely to use drywall screws instead of nails. Is that ok, or should I just use nails?

Screws, nails, brads, paneling nails, doesn't matter, just test whatever you're going to use on a few scrap pieces of 1/2" and 3/4" MDF to make sure that it's not going to split. Don't forget to predrill holes for the fasteners to reduce the chance of splitting the MDF. The only problem with using screws and nails is that they have a bigger head which means you'll have a better chance of hitting them with another fastener when you attach subsequent assemblies/pieces.

Watch when you measure and drill the Gantry Front (CNC_DTL20). The three vertically aligned holes on the left and right sides should be spaced at 0.375", 1.438", and 2.500" to match the bolt and dowel pin holes in the Gantry - Left Side (CNC_DTL16) and Gantry - Right Side (CNC_DTL17).

Another thing, I just switched my X-axis and Y-axis leadscrews from 1/4"-20 allthread to 1/2"-10 ACME screws (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=408-0220&PMPXNO=942694), 1/2"-10 ACME nuts, (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=407-2200&PMPXNO=940474&PARTPG=INLMK3) and DumpsterCNC A/B nuts (http://www.dumpstercnc.com/images/1_2-10_ACME.jpg), what a difference it makes. You wouldn't believe how much faster, smoother, and quieter the JGRO table runs after switching from the 1/4"-20 allthread. If I would have known that to start with I would have made the modifications for the larger ACME threaded rod and skipped the alltread altogether. Some modifications to the design must be made to accomodate the larger diameter thread, bearings and dumpster nuts. Just my 2 cents if your interested.

You've made excellent progress, so far. Keep up the good work.


L8r,

Hi HayTay
Thanks for the tips. I'm amazed how cheep the 1/2" acme hardware costs. I'll be making that modification for sure. Also, I will be predrilling the holes before any fastener gets attached. Thats good info. I appreciate the heads up about the dimension changes.
Dave

Well Dave, you are making great progress. I have purchased some MDF but that is all. Because my garage is not heated and there is a woodworking show in Atlanta this weekend, I will not make any progress for awhile.
I sure agree with the comments from "HayTay". Pre-drill all fastener holes and the 1/2/10 Acme threaded rod are the way to go. We'll get these built someday. Keep up the good work. John

Hi Dave,

I'll be watching your progress on this thread. I'm thinking about building a cnc router myself for the purpose of routing elliptical planforms with transitioning Drela airfoils that would be impossible with wire cutting. I'm most interested in DLG's and Sp400's so a smallish router might do the trick.

So many projects, so little time! Good luck with you build.:cheers:

Mike

Mike,
I've always wondered how a CNC router would finish the bottom of a wing? See the attached picture. The top is no problem, there's no easy way to finish the bottom. What would you do? You can't turn a complex airfoil on

Now if I were cutting a foil for a mold, then no problem, because you would cut a top, the cut a separate bottom.
Dave

If the problem is laying the wing flat when you turn it over, can't you cut a "mold" to lay it in? It should be easy to invert the code used to cut the airfoil. Don't know how you'd do it with a wire, but this may be just one more reason you need to build the router.

EDO,
Heres a German group that cuts their cores with a router. They cut both the top and bottom half side, by side. Then the wirecut each foil at the parting plane, glue them together, and waaahhla, they have a wing.

Actually they go further and vacuum bag these wings in a mold.

http://www.delago.de/ariane/ETechnik.htm
and
http://www.delago.de/ariane/EStyro.htm

Interesting.
Dave

Hey John,
The bearings arrived.

Lucky you, would you believe i ordered bearing since late November and have not gotten them as yet :(, i don't know, maybe got lost in postal, had to order a new set, usually take two to three weeks to get them, still waiting........

Mike,
I've always wondered how a CNC router would finish the bottom of a wing? See the attached picture. The top is no problem, there's no easy way to finish the bottom. What would you do? You can't turn a complex airfoil on

Now if I were cutting a foil for a mold, then no problem, because you would cut a top, the cut a separate bottom.
Dave
Dave,

Great question. I've only given it a little thought and all I can come up with is about the same as you suggest: Route the top and bottom separately with a lip around the edges. The lip could be used for alignment before gluing, then cut off??? I guess since the two would be mated together it might be a good time to put some spar material in. This might be good for DLG wings if it doesn't add too much weight. Do you think the material would become too thin routing this way that it wouldn't be feasible? Might be a particular problem with Drela et al foils.

Another option would be to use a 4-axis machine so that you route both sides (not a perfect solution either I realize). Biggest drawback of this is I haven't got a clue how you'd keep the piece stationary enough. :rolleyes:

Mike

GliderGider,

How did you make out with Sporqster's JGRO router plans modeled in CATIA (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=105306&postcount=1) format? Did they open OK for you?

Hi HayTay,
Yes, the Catia files opened perfectly. Full 3D solids with all the trimmings. Very nicely done. Thanks for the link. I had John Miller in my cube and we were zooming around looking at the details. Most of it we already knew, until we closed in on the back of the long axis bearing mount. It turns out that on the back side of that mount, there is a MDF block, which appears to be an adjustment feature or just a structural backup block. Its detail 21. Its also shown on assy07.

Can you shed some light on its purpose?

Thanks again for the link.
Dave

...until we closed in on the back of the long axis bearing mount. It turns out that on the back side of that mount, there is a MDF block, which appears to be an adjustment feature or just a structural backup block. Its detail 21. Its also shown on assy07.

Can you shed some light on its purpose?

Are you sure you got the drawing number correct. According to my PDF plans CNC_dtl21 is a GANTRY - CORNER BLOCK. Are you talking about the ANTI - WHIP BLOCK SPACER (cnc_dtl24) and the corresponding ANTI - WHIP BLOCK (cnc_dtl23)? If you are, then the purpose is to help keep the long axis leadscrew (1/4"-20 x 43.50") from 'whipping' around like a jumprope while moving. This is apparent at higher feed rates (motor RPM) and the farther you get from the drive motor. The sound is horrible and results in reduced accuracy and repeatability. The A-W Block Spacer also seems to help stabilize the gantry a bit.

If you used 3/4" Delrin/HDPE for the ANTI - WHIP BLOCK (cnc_dtl23) you wouldn't need the A-W Block Spacer (cnc_dtl24). If you're converting to a larger ACME leadscrew the A-W Block is one of the parts that requires modification.

HayTay,
I was talking about the corner block that I saw in the fly thru. Still, thanks for the info about the AW block, thats good stuff.

It was the corner block that I'm wondering about. I'm wondering, is it for structure or adjustments or both?
Dave

It was the corner block that I'm wondering about. I'm wondering, is it for structure or adjustments or both?
Dave

The GANTRY - CORNER BLOCK (cnc_dtl21) is primarily for structural support. It's used to connect the GANTRY - BOTTOM (cnc_dtl18) to the GANTRY - LEFT SIDE (cnc_dtl16) and GANTRY - RIGHT SIDE (cnc_dtl17). It also helps to 'stiffen up' the area where the bearing slides mount so that they better withstand the racking motion of the gantry. There may be other reasons. I'll leave those to JGRO or a mechanical engineer to explain (please).

Most of the adjustments to the machine are made to the rails via the ADJUSTMENT BLOCKS - LARGE & SMALL (cnc_dtl07 & cnc_dtl13).

Any more progress, or are you currently in the 'hunting and gathering' phase?

Regarding my progress. Nothing this week because of various life activities. My Daughter had a High School Basketball game, I had a Sailplane Club meeting, then a Volleyball tournament last night, but tonight, I should be cutting timber.

What are your thoughts for servo sizes and Controller boards? Since I've been hanging around CNCzone, my opinions have changed. I was planning to get the HobbyCNC.com 200 in-oz combo, and but now I'm wondering if I really would benefit from something in the area of 450 in-oz.

Started assembling the skate bearings to the aluminum angles. Almost finished with the first skate. Notice I'm missing the counterbored peak. How am I going to do that with hand tools? Help me out please.

I bought the HobbyCNC 200oz kit, primarily for cost, and I actually enjoyed putting the board together. The motors seem to have plenty of power and speed for my JGRO using 1/2" Acme lead screws.

For the aluminum angles, I marked the space to be cut on the angles with a Sharpie and took most of the material off with my bench grinder. The width of the cut isn't critical and the size of my grinding wheel was just about right. I finished it up the cut with a hand file to get it flat.
If you don't have a grinder, use a hacksaw and make multiple kerf cuts, then finish it up with a file. It's also easier to drill the holes after the flat is cut.

I filed them flat with only a file (.75" wide) in a few minutes.

Jason

Guys,
Thank's for the tips about flattening the point. I'll try it today. Also, I'm going to build the remaining 5 skates today as well.

EDO: I enjoyed soldering my foam cutting HobbyCNC driver too. Its amazing how satisfying it was to solder, test and and assemble it. I might go that way again. Good to know that the 200 in-oz steppers are powerful enough. How about your jog speeds and cutting speeds. How fast can you cut?
Dave

I thought I was getting pretty fast jogs, but then realized that any feedrate setting above F80 really didn't have an affect. Manually timing the moves tells me I'm jogging at about 78ipm.

I've been cutting MDF and HDPE at 30ipm and limiting the cutting depth to less than 0.20". This just 'looks' like a good speed and I haven't really pushed it until I was missing steps. I'm afraid of breaking the bit or something. When you're manually pushing a router through wood you can 'feel' the right rate, with the CNC, I just don't have anything to compare it too.

Here's a pic of my X&Z axis. I'm using a HF Trim Router with a Whiteside 1/8" spiral upcut bit that only cuts to a depth of 1/2". These bits are $25 a piece so I'm not really inclined to push the machine until one breaks. The Trim Router has a 1/4" collet so I haven't been able to try the more common 1/8" spiral bits that are cheap enough to be disposable.

What do people use to cut 3/4" material? I'd hate to go to 1/2" or larger diameter bits just to get one that's 3/4" long and fits a 1/4" collet - seems like I'd be wasting too much material.

EDO: I enjoyed soldering my foam cutting HobbyCNC driver too. Its amazing how satisfying it was to solder, test and and assemble it. I might go that way again. Good to know that the 200 in-oz steppers are powerful enough. How about your jog speeds and cutting speeds. How fast can you cut?
DaveSeems if you're watching the dollar and still looking for a good board, HobbyCNC's the way to go, not that i'm putting down Xylotex in any way cuz they are some out there that has had good results, but they are some that have had some troubles and in the end prefered the HobbyCNC to the Xylotex
check out this thread

Note: Big thread.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26792

What do people use to cut 3/4" material? I'd hate to go to 1/2" or larger diameter bits just to get one that's 3/4" long and fits a 1/4" collet - seems like I'd be wasting too much material.

edo,

Enco has Atrax brand, 1/4" solid carbide, 2 flute, end mills with various LOCs from 1/2" to 1 1/2". They're probably not the highest quality but they work for what I'm cutting. I think some other people here on the Zone are using them too. Maybe they can chime in with their 2 cents, also.

Link to Enco Carbide Single End Mills (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=91&PMITEM=323-5100).

HayTay - thanks for the link. Although they don't have 1/8" cutters for a 1/4" collet, I'll try some of the longer 1/4" Enco bits. They must be on sale! I added a few to the shopping cart and the price that shows is a lot less than what's listed on the catalog page; e.g., the 3/4" LOC one lists at $12.09 and is selling for $6.29. This is just the motivation I needed to put another Enco order together for some ACME rod I've been wanting for another project.

I remember seeing a modification to the slide rails that included a U-bolt, some clear plastic tubing and a third skate bearing. The third bearing captures the gas pipe completely. I'm trying to find that thread. Can anyone lead me back to it. And, whats the verdict, is it a good modification?

You may have a problem with the Z-axis if the bolts are too long. Unlike the X & Y bolts that go all the way through and get nuts, the Z ones go into threaded holes and if they're too long, they'll hit the Z-Axis Lead Screw. I used 1/4" Pan head screws instead of hex bolts which I was able to get in the right length.

Good link to the end mills.

Here's my progress today. Pretty much finished the skates, all 6 of them. Couldn't find the 1-1/4 inch long bolts, so I opted for the 1-1/2 inches. That shouldn't be a problem I hope.

I think you'll be OK. I just took a quick look and measurement on my JGRO table to make sure. It looks like there is enough clearance for the 1 1/2" long bolts on all three axes. If there is a problem you could always cut them off using a hacksaw or a cutoff disk in a Dremel or RotoZip.

edo & Glidergider, glad I could help out on the end mills. Enco does have other end mills, ball end mills, etc. Just do a search and you may come up with some 1/8" end mills with a 1/4" shank.

HayTay,
I don't know how to ask this question, but here goes. I'm trying to understand the Bit/Chuck relationship of a router. My router only takes a single diameter shank/bit. Is there an adapter which can be attached to the router to get an adjustable diameter chuck? Are there routers out there with an adjustable chuck as standard equipment?
Dave

Glidergider,

Good job on the bearing trucks. After scrutinizing your finished truck picture a little more it looks like you need to add another nut between all of your bearings and the aluminum angle on the 8" ones (long axis, CNC_assy08) that ride on the 1" gas pipe (CNC_dtl03). The plans call for a 0.520" spacer (CNC_dtl26) which is a PITA to find. Two 5/16"-18 hex nuts are almost exactly 0.520" and are cheaper and easier to use. If you feel the need to be exact, you can measure different combinations of hex nuts to find pairs that are 0.520" +/- 0.003. It's really not super critical, though. See pictures for clarification.

I also found a picture of the GANTRY - CORNER BLOCK (CNC_dtl21) from when I was putting together my gantry. Hopefully it will clarify its purpose as discussed in one of your earlier posts.

HayTay,
I don't know how to ask this question, but here goes. I'm trying to understand the Bit/Chuck relationship of a router. My router only takes a single diameter shank/bit. Is there an adapter which can be attached to the router to get an adjustable diameter chuck? Are there routers out there with an adjustable chuck as standard equipment?
Dave

What your looking for or needing are 'collet adapters', 'adapter bushings', 'collet reducers', or some other combination of those words.

You can purchase them from MLCS Woodworking (http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/adapbush.html), Lee Valley Tools (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=30126&cat=1,46168,46180), and other places. Those two links should be enough to get you started on the right track.

Dave,

Great question. I've only given it a little thought and all I can come up with is about the same as you suggest: Route the top and bottom separately with a lip around the edges. The lip could be used for alignment before gluing, then cut off??? I guess since the two would be mated together it might be a good time to put some spar material in. This might be good for DLG wings if it doesn't add too much weight. Do you think the material would become too thin routing this way that it wouldn't be feasible? Might be a particular problem with Drela et al foils.

Another option would be to use a 4-axis machine so that you route both sides (not a perfect solution either I realize). Biggest drawback of this is I haven't got a clue how you'd keep the piece stationary enough. :rolleyes:

Mike


Hi guys, did you see the full how-to on how the Encore HLG wings are done in RC Soaring Digest. So simple it's frightening! The key is vacuum. Even the balsa tails are done ..both sides, very cool, very accurate.
Have a look here, page 32 in the pdf file.:

http://www.rcsoaringdigest.com/pdfs/RCSD-2006/RCSD-2006-09.pdf

Keep up the good work Mike!!

Mark
Montreal
www.matsclub.org

HayTay - you're costing me money today. I submitted an Enco order earlier and just bought some bushing adapters from MLCS. Did you know they have free shipping? Thanks.

Glidergider - I've never seen a 'chuck' on a router. Most have 1/4" collets, and the larger ones which I don't believe we'd want to put on the JGRO take 1/2" bits. Smaller trim routers like my Harbor Freight one only have a 1/4" collet and it's short and has a unique thread size so I haven't been able to find any other collets that will fit. This limits the bits I can use on it, but HayTay's link solved that problem. Home Depot sells adapter collets for RotoZips and I have about ten different sizes for my Dremel.

Just realized there's quite a bit more on 'how it's done' on the Encore hand launch glider here, page 13 of the pdf file on this link:

http://www.rcsoaringdigest.com/pdfs/RCSD-2006/RCSD-2006-08.pdf


cheers!
Mark
Montreal

Great article on the wings. I've seen plans on this site somewhere about building a vacuum table. If I'm not mistaken though, these were cut in two parts and put together - they didn't route the whole wing from a single piece of foam, right?

Edo, I don't know about elsewhere but the Encore method appears to be from a single piece of styrofoam. Certainly gets pretty thin at the tip end! But unlike hot wiring, there's no heat so the foam retains its mechanical properties.
Very sexy curved leading edge too! I can't do that with my cnc foamcutter either!

Mark
Montreal

Hi Mark,

Funny you should point those articles by Phil Pearson in RCSD out. I read though them this weekend between reads on building a cnc router. I'm so excited I ordered my bearings last night and will start my router build sometime this weekend. Thanks for the link.:cheers:

Dave, sorry...not trying to steal your thread...back into lurking (and construction for me!!!).

Do have a question about what software you are planning on using though...what are your CAD and CAM program plans?

Mike

Markg:
Explain further how the encore wing is made? I'm not getting it from the article. Maybe its just reading it on line. I understand the first side of wing surface is cut in the missionary position. I'm mean, nothing fancy, it just lays there flat. But once that surface is cut, a female form is used to hold the flipped wing? So a separate negative surface must be cut too? And, its the negative surface that has the vacuum holes right?
Dave

Dave,

That's exactly right. Phil mentions in this article that the female foam "holder" has a special arrangement of holes for vacuum to handle the thin material left at the trailing edge. Evidently the cutting bit creates a "thermal" and tends to lift it. Really innovative stuff Phil has done on the Encore and has shared with us.

Ordered my steppers and drivers from HobbyCNC tonight. Guess I'm in for the long haul now.

Mike

Hi Dave,

I think the female form for routing the flipside of the wingcore is part of the "800 hours" of development mentioned in the articles that went into the setup that allows Phil Pearson the crank out Encores reliably and repeatably.

It's certainly a level of precision we can all aspire to.

Back to my router project too...

Mark

Mcyr,
congrats on your purchase of the hobbycnc system. Its a good product. I've got to decide if I want to solder up the boards myself, or just buy a complete system.
Dave

Up to now, I've been building my JGRO with just the pdf drawings. Now I have a question about the dowels. On the plans, I see several holes at .250 inches and a cross-hairs (CG symbol). I'm assuming these symbols are for the dowels.

Can someone confirm?

Next question: If these holes are for the dowels, what is the strategy for drilling? Drill these holes after assembling?

Thanks,
Dave

Up to now, I've been building my JGRO with just the pdf drawings. Now I have a question about the dowels. On the plans, I see several holes at .250 inches and a cross-hairs (CG symbol). I'm assuming these symbols are for the dowels.

Can someone confirm?

Next question: If these holes are for the dowels, what is the strategy for drilling? Drill these holes after assembling?

Thanks,
Dave

Yes these 'extra' holes are for dowel pins. I drilled mine before assembling the Gantry and everything fit together nicely except as noted previously (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=246094&postcount=5). I don't see where drilling the alignment pin holes after assembly would make much of a difference.

I wound up using 1/4 x 1 1/2" steel dowel pins from McMaster-Carr - Part No. 98381A546 - $10.73 US for a box of 50 (http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=3223).

Hi HeyTay,
Thanks for the insights.

I've been on company travel for 2 weeks. So glad to be home with the saw dust. I didn't waste any time getting back into the swing of cutting wood. Next I need to buy a 1 inch dia. hole saw. I was surprised how the 1.5" hole saw would gum up during the cutting.

Here's a picture of my progress. Its a pile of cut wood, but it tells a story of my progress. I'm not the best craftsman, but in the end, this thing is going to cut wood for me.

Whats the favorite software? Mach3, TurboCNC? Is there a poll out there somewhere in the past? I noticed Mach3 is on sale for $159 right now.
Dave

Mach 3 is the way the go, did you download the demo, if not try it and run the roadrunner simulation, kinda cool to watch, and it'll get you familiar with the software too.

Next I need to buy a 1 inch dia. hole saw. I was surprised how the 1.5" hole saw would gum up during the cutting.

Try a 1.5" Forstner bit instead. I had the same problem with the hole saws. Other people seemed to have better success with the Forstner (type) bits. Just a suggestion.

As to software, Mach3 and VCarvePro 3.1 seem to be the way to go. Both are relatively inexpensive but packed with more than enough features to "get the job done".

I did download the Mach3 demo. I even uploaded some of my dxf files used with the foamcutting machine. They loaded easily and looked like they would cut without incident.

In Mach3, is there a tool that easily offsets the router path half the diameter of the cutting bit?

Also, I took a good look at vcarve family of software. There are three products. Does the VcarvePro (the most expensive) do the functions of all three software packages?

I'm not sure of the difference between vcut and vcarvePro. Any ideas on the differences?

I'm using Mach3 with great results and it'll do tool offsets, but I wouldn't say it's easy. It took me a lot of 'air' cutting to figure these out.

You have to manually edit the G Code by inserting a G41 (Radius Offset Left) or G42 (Offset Right) command followed by the tool radius or tool number. You can store your tool sizes in a table in Mach3 and reference them by number. The offset left or right is dependent on whether you're cutting inside or outside the vector as well as the direction of the toolpath (CW or CCW). You also have to set up for the offset by using the G41/G42 command prior to moving to where you're going to start cutting to give the machine the time to move into the offset. And something I still haven't figured out, when using the offset to cut arcs (G02/G03) the machine sometimes gets goofy and just goes off cutting circles.

Whenever I use offsets, I always run the program with the power off to my controller just to watch the cutting path in Mach3.

Edo,
Very interesting info. I wouldn't call it easy either. A puzzle for people who like puzzles.

Here is my progress for tonight. I had a discarded nylon cutting board laying around and I've been eyeing it closely. Wondering if the thinner section would work for the adjustment blocks. So on the small blocks I decided to try it. I'm very pleased. I have one more to make.

Heres a picture.
Dave

I had a discarded nylon cutting board laying around and I've been eyeing it closely. Wondering if the thinner section would work for the adjustment blocks. So on the small blocks I decided to try it. I'm very pleased.

Dave,

With the thinner material, will there be enough clearance/room to (easily) turn the adjustment bolts when the adjustment blocks are attached to the machine?

I just wanted to drop you a note so you could make sure before you got too carried away.

G'night for now,

Hello Dave,

The 3 Vectric products offer different functionality.

VCarve Pro - General 2D machining with automatic cutter radius compensation for Profile and Pocket machining. Decorative 3D V Carving and precision engraving, Drilling and 3D Texturing.

VCPro imports most 2D vector based file formats - DXF, EPS, AI - with design editing tools for sizing, positioning, node editing-fixing etc. very good 3D toolpah preview, estimates the machining times and includes postprocessors for most CNC controllers.

Cut3D - Is a 3D machining package for cutting 3D models that have been designed using CAD / Design software such as Rhino3D, Silo, AutoCAD or designs available off the Internet.

Very straightforward to use with options to machine a single face of a model, 2 sides Top and Bottom or 4 sides top, bottom, front and back.

PhotoVCarve - Is for engraving / carving decorative pictures and lithophanes (3D back-lit photographs).

The files from PhotoVCarve can be imported into VCarve Pro and positioned relative to other design elements such as a decorative border and text. So for example a complete picture frame can be designed and machined.

I hope this above helps and let me know if you have any questions.

Tony

Tony Mac,
Thanks for the info. That is some pretty good looking software, but together the price!!!! Some of the stuff it can do looks amazing.

HeyTay,
Good point about it being to thin to make adjustments. I'll see if I can make it work, but yes the bolt heads will scrub the MDF base. I might try shimming, and if all else fails, I'll rebuild them with 3/4 inch. If it wasn't for the adjustments, I believe the strength is there.

I do have another question about the Z axis. With the gas pipes vertically suspended, what mechanical structure supports the gas pipes and resists the pipes from pursuing their ultimate goal of reaching the center of the earth?

Thanks for the comments. Building is fun!
Dave

Hey Glidergider, I've been following this thread with much interest since it looks like you and I are getting JGROs built almost in parallel. For the alignment blocks and antibacklash assemblies I used HDPE which is just a high-density version of most cutting board materials. It's fantastic stuff to work with and I found it was well within my budget to order from McMaster Carr. Check out my thread on HDPE blocks here (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23467) to see all the details including links to McMaster and prices.

I'm approaching finally assembly myself this weekend, would have been done a lot sooner if my car didn't keep falling apart and eating all my spare time. Anyway, I'll probably have some photos to add to this thread come Monday if you all don't mind me jumping into the fray. :)

As for the z-axis rods I found that they are very securely held in place with the HDPE alignment block screws, and since there's not going to be any downward pressure from the rail slides (they will put pressure perpendicular to gravity) I don't expect much downward slipping. If it does turn out to be a problem, drilling a couple indents for the alignment block screws to sit in will probably correct any problems.

Keep up the good work!

Hi Jtheletter
Thanks for the notes. Go ahead and add some pictures. I cut the antibacklash nuts last night, and I'll post pics tonight.
Dave

OK, I'm about to start assembling the Gantry. (cnc_assy07). On detail 16 and 17 (the sides), I think there is missing some callouts for tapped holes in the bottom edge.

I'm also wondering if there are written instructions for the Gantry assembly. I don't want to put it together crooked. If you know of some instructions, help me find them please.
Dave

Here's a picture of the Anti-backlash nuts. I'm happy with them. Made from my wifes discarded cutting board. I also mounted the small adjustment blocks.

Tonight I hope to get the major parts of the gantry assembled. Any advice on what to connect to what first would be appreciated.

Well, I started with the gantry bottom plate, side gussets, and back. I figured it was safe to assemble and glue those pieces together. Tomorrow I'll put the tall sides and gantry back together.

Well the gantry is starting to come together. I'm have some issues with squareness though. I finished the anti-backlash nuts and I'm excited to see some serious assembly getting started.
Dave

good going Glidergider, how soon are we talking till completion now :), I must say though, I too am concerned about those 1/2" adjustment block whether you'll have any issues with accessing the bolts with them so thin, nevertheless, that material holds threads very well I must say, I guess you'll know soon enough.

Weekends are great, don't you agree? Nothing better then spending a day on a project. As you can see, the Gantry continues to grow.

I shimmed the thin adjustment blocks to get access to the bolts. It works pretty good.

I found that some of the skate bearings are not touching the gas pipes. So I'll likely disassemble the skate bearing angle assemblies and open up the 1/4 dia holes to get more adjustment capability.
Dave

Your progress is looking good.

Before you disassemble your bearing assemblies, consider that you may not be able to adjust them with the gantry on the machine. You won't be able to get a wrench inside the angle to hold the bolt. I used MDF shims to fix problems with bearings not touching. Look at the bottom of the angle in the picture. Shim size will be trial and error.

edo,
I have something similar to your situation, but I also have only 3 bearings touching the pipe in the unconstrained assembly. So, I figured I must adjust that fourth 1/4 inch bolt hole to allow that bearing to touch the pipe. Then I'd shim the entire assembly as you did, as needed.

I hope that makes sense.
Dave

You got me thinking the shims are probably not the right answer. I just came across this post (http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=104613)that explains adjusting the bearings on the angle block (using elongated holes) - something I probably should have done. I'm now considering pulling my bearing assemblies and readjusting them. I also used two nuts instead of spacers and now realize any difference in this spacing would also cause problems with all bearings touching the pipe.

edo,
I don't see a problem with shimming the way you've done. If it works, don't fix it.

I might have used Delrin instead of mdf though.

The link is a good one, and that's what I plan to do, in order to get the 4th bearing to touch simultaniously.
Dave

Logically thinking I believe that if you flush the bearing surface with the angle aluminum flat as pictured, all bearings "should" sit evenly, i remember seeing that image in a post by "Jgro" himself saying that's the way he bolted the bearings and angle together, i think he stated that he clamped them against a piece of wood to line them up, didn't read the other post, don't know if they did it that way too.

Now you tell me... I didn't even consider the lack of tolerances in drilling the holes in the aluminum as being part of the cause for 'floating' bearings and just thought I didn't have my gas pipe adjusted right.

Well, thanks to this thread, I'm back at work on my jgro. I could not get the gantry to work at all. Took things apart and found the Y axis to be off square by about 1/8 inch. Doesn't sound like much but now all the bearings touch the pipe and the gantry rolls.
Still a bunch of stuff to do.
Wally

I'm still working, and tonight on the Z-axis mechanism. You know, these pdf plans are just great, but... Jgro, you through me a curve. On the z-axis, the anti-backlash nut is pictured, without any wooden support. I just didn't know if this was an oversite, or did you mean for the delrin nut to just float in the assembly. Anyway I went ahead and cut some wood to mount it.

The picture is a general shot of the z-axis on it gas pipes. But look closely and you can see where I split some wood in the z-axis, under the angles. Don't do this.

Also, you can see the shims that I placed under the adjustment blocks. I think they will work ok, however, yes I'm still wishing I had bought the 3/4 inch delrin from mcmaster carr.

Wally, Glad this thread has had a positive affect.

Well tonight I finally glued and screwed the end plates to the bottom deck. I don't know if I have enough screws. I basically used both 2 and 3 inch wood screws. The photo shows a bit of clamping assistance during the glue drying process.

The other photo show the Enco 1/2 dia acme thread and most importantly the grinding done to make this piece into a thread cutter.

I hope this is some inspiration.
Dave

The base plate glue is dry so I flipped over the assembly for it first X-rail fit check. I'm a bit amazed that its really going together so fast. Yet I've got so much work left to do, which includes adding all the missing dowels and then painting. Plus, I've got to order the stepper/driver combo kit. I've done the HobbyCNC thing before, but I want a larger stepper motor for this rig.

Please help me decide which system to get. I'm on a budget, but I'm willing to spend a little more if it means a more satifying machine. Send me a PM if you'd like or just pipe up here.

Dave
PS. The grooved cutting surface was cut by my friend, John Miller, who is also building a JGRO. Thanks John.

Looks great Dave.

Personally the hobbycnc kit with the 200 oz/inch motors is the way to go

Jason

Dave,
Looking good, I agree with Jason the HobbyCNC kit is the best. Well I did have Mike Beck build my board for me so it was an even better deal but the rest of the kit went together very easily. I used the PacTec plastic case and the Allied transformer that Dave Riggoti recommends.
DT

Tom and Jason,
Thanks for your inputs. Always good to hear from the gang of like minded DIY'rs. But, am I'm wrong to want a 425in-oz stepper? Also, does the HCNC board have adequate limit and home switch inputs?
Dave

On the topic of the 425 stepper you will need a bipolar drive to get the full torque of the stepper. The HCNC works only with unipolar configured motors.

Check out the arcsin driver from www.buildyouridea.com. I an considering this drive because I want to run some 500 oz/inch nema 23 steppers and it upper current limit will output the 3 amps that these motors need.

Yes the HCNC has adequate inputs for the limit and home switches.
I personally have 6 switches. 3 home/limit and 3 limit.

Jason

Jason,
So you have 9 switches or 6? Do you gang the limit switches into a single input, or do you have 9 inputs? What Parallel port pins are you using? So many questions...

....
Yes the HCNC has adequate inputs for the limit and home switches.
I personally have 6 switches. 3 home/limit and 3 limit.

Jason

I have 6 switches total. 3 switches serve as both home and limit and then 3 switches which are limit switches. The 3 limit only switches are run into one pin and the dual duty switches run to individual pins.

Jason

Jason,
Sounds like you have the switches covered pretty good. I watched several of the Mach3 videos. They were very enlightening regarding how the software interacts with the switches.

I'm going to read though the differences between Bipolor and Unipolar starting with your link. Thanks. Your statement indicates that the maximum Unipolar stepper motor is 200in-oz. Is that a true statement. I'll going to try to get smarter about this subject.

Another subject I don't understand is the term 'chopper board'. I am familiar with the term PWM, but not chopper.
Dave

Some motors can be wired as either unipolar or bipolar, in bipolar mode the motor will have more torque. The data sheet for the motor will list the numbers. The strongest motor HCNC supplies is 200 oz/inch which is more than strong enough for the JGRO, but you can get unipolar motors with more torque than 200oz/inch.

As for the chopper term (although simple) I will allow to be described by one of the electronic guys.

Jason

Well I bought a set of motors and drivers, so I'm waiting on their arrival. I also bought a 12x12x3/4 piece of HDPE and rebuilt the large Adjustment blocks.

At McMaster Carr, the prices vary greatly for plastics. The Delrin, often called out in our plans, is pretty expensive, so I opted for the less expensive HDPE.

Material, tensile strength, cost for 12x12x3/4.
Delrin 10 ksi, $53
HDPE 4 ksi, $17
UHMW 3.2 ksi, $16

HDPE Threads and cuts pretty good.

So, what motors and drivers did you get - HobbyCNC again?

Delrin is more expensive, but it's worth it for anti-backlash nuts. You only need 1/2" thick Delrin and the widest piece according to the plans is only 2". I bought a 1/2 x 2 x 12" piece from McMaster Carr (8662K43) and it was only $11. It was enough for all three AB nuts and I had made the X & Y ones bigger because I used 1/2" ACME Lead Screws.

The motors and drivers arrived today. Boy these are much bigger (425in-oz) then the 127 versions from HobbyCNC. I ended up trying the Keling hardware. I bought their package deal. It saves me a little time in assembly. Don't know why I'm in such a hurry... but the mostly I wanted the larger motors that HobbyCNC doesn't offer.

I have been studying the topic and the data tells me that I will eventually enjoy the greater horsepower. High torque at low RPMs. At higher RPMs, I'm hoping that I have equal torque. No doubt my "Tim Allen" desire for more speed swayed my study:) The Zylotex webpage says that a router with a 10tpi drive screw will benefit from the higher torque motors.

The package deal didn't come with motor connecting wires, so that's my next task. Plus, I have to finish installing Mach3. I had a little trouble with the install last night. I emailed Art about the problem and he responded within just minutes. That was really great.

Jason,

Another subject I don't understand is the term 'chopper board'. I am familiar with the term PWM, but not chopper.
Dave

"Chopper" just means limiting current by switching. I think PWM is the most elegant, especially when you want to compensate for mid band resonance. Comparators are used sometimes, but I think there are issues with the drive fets being in the linear range too much and creating heating issues. I think this is why the lmd245's are so hot running.

Heres a picture the Keling 425s next to my HobbyCNC's 127s.

The new larger motors have 8 leads. I need to find a local source of stranded wire. The local DIY stores only sell solid wire. I've read that ebay has wire, but that's my last choice.

I'm wondering if the local automotive parts stores carry standded wire.

edit: After reading the wiring diagram closer, I see that I need only a 4 conductor wire. That should be easier to find. Trailer light wires from an Autozone should work.

Well,
Last night I got my copy of Mach3 running. Just for grins and giggles, I made it push my foamcutter cnc hardware. So, now I have a grounding in its use. I pulled up a dxf file I previously made for my foamcutting activities and set to work creating g-code. Oh, I still have a hundred questions.

Also accomplished during the day was the purchase of 25 feet of 4 conductor stranded wire. I got it from the local autoparts store. It's made for trailer taillight wiring. It seems a little stiff because of its construction, but it should work.

Do you know what the 4-1/4" holes in dtl 21 (Gantry-corner block) are for? They look like they're supposed to be dowel stiffeners. If so, they need to be 2 1/4" long.
Sorry to high jack your thread but I asked this question in my thread and didn't get an answer.
By the way, I too stopped my RC airplane building to build my machine and I hope to one day use it to cut some airplane parts.
Thanks, Wally

I think you're right. All the mating parts have the same holes and you're going to need 2 1/4" long pins to go through the corner block, gantry side, and bearing mount. 1 1/2" pins are OK for the bottom plate. Had I noticed this, I would have only drilled 3/4" deep holes in the edge of DTL21.

Wallyh and edo,
Truthfully, I didn't even drill thoses holes. I was planning to do a drill on assembly so I'd get a real tight structural fit. Then recently, I read that jgro actually used metal pin in all those locations. So, bottom line, I don't think there is a correct answer. I will probably just pilot some holes for wood screws to give the joint extra strength.
Dave

Thanks for the answers, I have pinned all the holes now, hope that I don't have to take it apart for any reason.
Wally

Today I bought an old junk PC case ($10). Stripped the insides, cleaned it and started mounting drivers, PS, and breakout board inside. I have room to spare. This is pretty sturdy box, so I won't have to worry about abusing it. I'll eventually build an MDF faceplate with some CNC letters. But right now, this will have to do.

Tomorrow, I'll start adding the wire bundles. As you can see, the Keling (http://www.kelinginc.net/CNCPackage.html)hardware has individual driver modules. It does require a breakout board. This is a cheaper model, however it does have the pullup resistors on the input lines. That nice. The Xylotex BOB (http://www.xylotex.com/PDFS.htm) requires adding a resistor to the input lines.

So that's it for todays activity.
Dave

Hi Guys,
Here are some pics of the Keling drivers, BOB and PS. I successfully wired and tested one stepper last night. Temporarily installed it on the lead-screw and got it to jog at 75 ipm. Oh yeah.

Thanks,
Dave

I should add, that I really like this BOB. Between each of the parallel port pins is a 5 volt tap. In some cases, there are grounds between the data pins. Also, this BOB can be configured so ALL of the pins are inputs to the computer. If you are a hobbiest and just want to control to outside world, this BOB should satisfy alot of demands.

Today I cut some lumber. First time. I found a dxf file used previously in foamcutting nick-nacs. This particular file always brings a smile to my wife face.

Today I cut some lumber. First time. I found a dxf file used previously in foamcutting nick-nacs. This particular file always brings a smile to my wife face.

Looks like it did a nice job.. Congratulations on a well made router.
Garry

Hi Garry,
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm still not complete with this build. I have lots left to do. The top plate is not yet attached. The E-stops switches and home switches haven't been soldered yet either. Then the switch mounting is not yet clear in my mind either. I bought 6 micro-switches from Radio Shack yesterday. Plus, there is lots of tweaking left to do regarding the pipes and bearings.

One step at a time.
Dave

:cheers: thumbs up on your first cut, glad to see you finally got to that point, hope we get to see a video soon too.

Jordan,
I think a video is about a week away. I thought about it last night, but it was just kind of crazy watching the first cuts. There were many little problems with this first effort. Details that need to be addressed and fixed.
Dave

The first cut is very exciting, even if nothing goes right! My machine has been running sense the end of Feb and I am still chasing a problem with lost steps/position on my X axis. Keep at it!

well i know they'll be tweaking to be done, in that case get it all sorted, i know if it was me i wouldn't want to unless it was working ok or for the most part, but when you do don't forget us here drooling for that vid, :D

Dave,
The build is nearing completion for you and it looks great. I got distracted by other hobby interests but now I am back to finish my build take a look when you get a chance.
DT

Last night I installed the Rockler T-rails. I also tweeked an olded foam cutting dxf file and cut it this morning before work. Its for my daughter who plays 2 sports in high school. She'll be playing for the Univ Alabama in Huntsville next fall.

How are those rails working out for you, i'm wondering about them but at the same time i'm trying to think up an approach that doesn't involve too much clamping about the work piece, some sort of quick clamping system where you can put the wood to be routed on the cutting bed, slide clamp to workpiece, and lock, maybe kinda like a straight edge that clamps across 4' x 8' panels to crosscut with a circular saw, or an idea stemming from a table saw fence, some food for thought for anyone who may have had similar thoughts.

Hi Jordan
I love those blue rails. Rockler tee rails couldn't be simplier. I highly recommend them. I bought their kit of one rail and one bag of bolts and knobs. It was on sale for the same price as the rail alone. The clamping force is plenty strong and low profile. Here's the kit (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5209&cs=1)I bought, but it was on sale for $11 when I got it. It even comes with a rail. Looks like they are back ordered right now.
Dave

Doesn't seem like a bad deal at all, i'll follow up on it, did you get all your tweaking done with the machine?

Hey, I've been promoted to Apprentice. Yeah. Sweeping chips, well, thats just hard work :)

Glidergider,

The first cuts look good! I have looked at the Rockler T rails but have really tried to build my machine on the cheap. I am thinking of a grid pattern, maybe 4”x4” of holes for ¼-20 T nuts.

V&B
I hear you about the cost. 4 rails at $10 each, add Tee bolts and handles at $10, and it starts to add up to real money after while. I don't even want to think about my costs. Add software and whew.

Slots are important for ease of assembling your cutting project. In my case, I used the extra foot of Tee rail as a clamp. I drilled two holes for the tee bolt. I was wishing those holes were slots. Look at my clamping picture for clarity.

I've heard of some guys building their t-rails from wood. That might work too.

Regarding your grid, do it, but you will need slots in clamp bar for sure.

Dave

We are going to see our grand nephew tomorrow. He's a baby, but I thought I'd make little Luke a wooden plaque with his name in it. Here is my attempt. My router is still pretty loose, but I'm improving slowly.

Today, on a failed first attempt, the limit switch inadvertently broke. The cutting stopped of course. I'm using Mach3. When I tried to restart the project, it lost its position and ruined that effort. I started again with all the limit switches disabled. I'm pretty sure that after I gain more experience with this software, I'll be able to recover from such a stoppage without ruining the part.

Dave

Did I mention that I purchased a Hitachi router? Well, that means I need new motor mounts. So I just routed a new set of structural supports, using the old loud Craftsman router. Here are the details shown in pictures.

There are two different types of plastic shown and two different thickness.

The HDPE machines best and I bought it at .75 in. thick.

The thinner material is a scrap of Kitchen cutting board plastic. Awful to machine and it's really too thin. When machining it leaves lots of melted hairs. Finished edges require lots of deburring.
Dave

you can let me know how well that router works for you, i heard a lot of good reports on it, and pretty good for the cost, i'm supposed to get one on Monday, my PC router needs an amatuer, and i can't seem to locate one as yet, it's a really nice router, just not as heavy duty as i thought for the purpose i used it for.

Jordan,
I'm currently using a Craftsman 1.5 hp router. So far its plenty strong enough. The Craftsman is loud and its single speed.

The Hitachi is 2.25hp and quieter. The variable speed is an unknown commodity to me, but I'm thinking I'll like it.

Here's a picture of the motor mount after removal from the tabs. Perfect fit.
Dave

I suspect the extra .75 hp should help if you're cutting hardwood, what's the hardest wood you've cut so far with your machine and how did it perform?

I agree, the extra hp will help. Particularly when I slow the motor down. That's when the least hp is deliver to the cutter. So having more up front will help there.

The hardest wood I've cut is white oak. The plaque for Luke shown above. I took small 1/8 in. deep cuts. 1/4in dia up-cut bit.

The hardest wood I've cut is white oak. The plaque for Luke shown above. I took small 1/8 in. deep cuts. 1/4in dia up-cut bit.

Thanks, i'm just trying to get an idea on how it'll go cause i want to use it for doing custom hardwood furniture, some of those details that take forever to do by hand or manually by power tools, pleh..... time is money.

Glidergider,

What’s the O.D. on the new router? I am making a set of similar mounting brackets for a Craftsman router I was given, plastic body with a 3.8” O.D. The thing was never used. I plan to use the crap out of it until it crokes, then I might go for one of the Porter Cables.

I'm not home to measure, but from memory, my craftsman router is 3.8in dia. the hitachi is 3.3in dia.

Good looking plaque. Great to see you're up and running.

I suspect the problem you had with the cutting board is the router running at too high of a speed and/or cutting at too slow of a rate. Try it again when you with the variable speed router running at a slower speed. Friction from the high speed causes the melting. I've had real good results with 1/2" cutting boards and thought they were made from HDPE.

I won't ask about the "switch inadvertently broke".

These new pieces look like you used a differnent set up all together. They are great. I tried to catch you before you left, I have the new bearings and the acme nuts. I have yours at work. I've got some more of the parts of my router made, but my back has been bothering me. I got a brace like you suggested but ended up at the chiropractor anyway. I'll see you when you get back. Oh yeah, my wife just called and the water heater is leaking! Guess that's next on the agenda.
Keep up the good work.

What kind of tooling are you using on your router? I have a Mini mill and Mini lathe so all my tooling is for metal, I have been running a 1/8”4 flute HSS end mill in the Dremel.

It cuts every thing with a little adjustment in feed speed and Dremel speed, even my steel hold downs if I’m not careful.

Glidergider,

Did I see in one of the threads you mentioned you’re a M.E.?

Hey V&B,
Yup, I'm a ME, and I'm back from vacation too. Now I can rest up from all that activity. I was really missing my garage and CNC machine.

Jem: I hope your back is feeling better. It's terrible that we have to grow old. Standing watch on a chugging CNC router is hard on my aching back too. Go ahead and take some pictures of your router and post them here, or start a thread. I know a bunch of guys that want to see your progress. I'll see you tomorrow at work.

Today a buddy is coming over with 100 inch wingspan glider. Its a foam wing covered in birch laminate. Its a super-fine looking wing, but he's disappointed in the excessive weight. So, wants me to cuts large oval lightening holes behind the spar to lighten the load.

I'll take pictures to document. Here's a link to his wing build thread.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7126103&postcount=172
RCgroups forum works alot like CNCzone.com. You can expand his thread and read more posts if you choose.

Dave

I have only cut wood and plastic. I'm using a Lowes 2 flute upcut router bit. I would say all of my tooling is for wood. I haven't tried cutting aluminum yet. I'm sort of afraid to. I still have about a lot of flex in my system, so cutting metal might be a jumpy experience.

What kind of tooling are you using on your router? I have a Mini mill and Mini lathe so all my tooling is for metal, I have been running a 1/8”4 flute HSS end mill in the Dremel.

It cuts every thing with a little adjustment in feed speed and Dremel speed, even my steel hold downs if I’m not careful.

My friend Todd showed a lot of patience yesterday as we cut multiple pockets from his overweight sailplane wing. During the process, we quoted another friend of numerous times. "Perfection is the enemy of Just-good-enough". That was the moto of the day. In the end, we reduced 8 ounces from the wing and a test balance had it hanging from the tow hook, which is good.

Enjoy the movie.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=vR74JnEB9Rk

Pretty impressive video - Todd's gotta be a pretty trusting soul to put his wing on your JGRO. It's really great to see you doing something productive so soon - it's only been two months since you posted your original intent to build. Well done!

edo,
Thanks for the compliment. Your early help and encouragement was not unnoticed by me, and I'm still appreciating it. I've really been obsessed with this hobby. My daughter told my wife about a month ago. "What's with Daddy, he hasn't watched TV in weeks." I thought that was funny. I've just about given up my other hobby, flying RC Sailplanes, but not completely.
Dave

edo,
One more comment. My rapid advancement, building the JGRO, is a testiment to how well the plans are Engineered. I'm constantly amazed at the level of detail that went into the plans, the parts list, and dimensioning. Its nearly 53 pages of 11X17 drawings.

The JGRO is a wonderful machine and can be built very quickly with a tablesaw, drill and other nominal tools.

For anyone looking for a link to the JGRO plans, here it is.
http://cnczone.com/downloads/CNC_Router_jgro.pdf

Print them, staple them together and take the partslist to Lowes and start buying hardware.

Yes there are a few things I did differently. I used wood screws in most all the bolted tapped callouts. Its easier, faster and holds just as good. I glued all the joints too. I drilled on assembly as much as I could too. Pilot all wood screw holes.
Dave

Ditto - they're excellent plans that provide a relatively inexpensive entry into a great hobby. I spent about $500 building mine, but the experience I got from it is worth many times that.

this is at the staple them together comment.

I went and got a 3ring binder (free from work for me) and a pack of sheet protectors. Each page (8.5 x 11) has its own sleeve, so you can take them out as you need, and put them back in. Also I have a few pages in the backs for notepaper with websites with prices and item numbers. Much more organized and easy to keep clean

Plus when you start working with oils and lubercants (with machining metals) nothing gets TOO dirty.

Your thread was a great read and I am glad you got it working. Can't wait to start building mine this weekend.

I went and got a 3ring binder (free from work for me) and a pack of sheet protectors. Each page (8.5 x 11) has its own sleeve, so you can take them out as you need, and put them back in.


I did the exact same thing here, helps great with organising and keeping clean, only thing that would make it a little better is creating an index page.

Here's a couple more pieces of sign art for my girls. I'm using Vcarve to layout the signs. I'm wishing I could figure out what small change to make in order to get more stiffness.

Here's another work of art. :rainfro: Cut in MDF. I changed the flat bottom pocket cutting bit and that helped some. I also took smaller bites.

Good work on the signs, a bit of finishing and they wll be ready for paint.

What speed did you cut your signs at?
What is your plunge speed?

Jason

Jason,
I'm cutting slow, at 30 ipm, and slow it down further to 20. The plunge speeds are 20.
Dave

The signage is looking good. I just down loaded Vcarve, and plan on giving it a spin the only cutting tool I have to fit the new router is a ¼ end mill. What would you recommend for a minimum set of router bits? I feel a shopping spree coming on!

V&B,
Besides the 1/4 you already have, I'd get a 1/2 inch dia 90 degree v-bit. Although any diameter and angle will work. That's all I've used so far. I do see that a 1/8" diameter flat bottom will be handy in the future.

On the last "a-cuz" sign, I used a single edge 1/4 dia. bit. Straight flute. The sawdust doesn't clear as well with this type bit, but it wasn't a problem.
Dave

Here's a tip. My router is pretty flexible. (read "good enough"). So to compensate, I try to make all the V-cuts first. Particularly when there is a pocket right next to the v-cut. If a pocket exists, then the cutting load has a resultant side pressure that bends the gantry ever-so-slightly. You can see the results in the "Anna" sign. Look at the letter n, upper right edge. There are slight divets in the bevel. The letter 'A' lower right also has a divet.

just read this whole thread again. Got all the pieces cut last night. Going to work on it all day.

Did you use woodscrews throughout the build? Did you bolt anything at all?

I installed the bolts according to the plans (about 80% as designed). If I did it again, I would use way more wood screws. This is me talking. I think wood screws and glue are just as strong as tapped bolt threads. Drill net-sized holes in the outer panel and pilot holes in the threaded panel. Glue all joints. Drill these holes in the same spots as the plan calls for bolts and tapped threads. The glue will resist the shearing forces and the wood screws will resist the prying forces.

Now, for the Adjustment blocks, I highly recommend the plastic. HDPE at 3/4 inch thick is best, however I used 7/16" thick cutting board in half of my adjustment blocks. The cutting board was free. The HDPE I bought at McMasterCarr $18 for a 12x12 inch piece.

If you use a thinner cutting board for the adjustment blocks, then some spacers or a different pipe adjustment screw is in order. A hex head cap screw would be perfect if you can find some.

I drilled all the holes in the plastic blocks using the drill press. That was fun. The final pilot holes in the mating wood were drilled at assembly. Alignment issues are so much easier for me when I did the pilot hole drilling at assembly.

just read this whole thread again. Got all the pieces cut last night. Going to work on it all day.

Did you use woodscrews throughout the build? Did you bolt anything at all?

yea I picked up a 12x12 piece of HDPE. I have to figure out a way to cut it. I think I may use my band saw. I got lucky and work ordered and is paying for everything I need from mcmaster and msc and stuff (they have accounts already).

Thanks for the help. I promise to take tons of pics

I've been doing some work behind the scenes. I designed a new front cover for my Computer box driver case. It has a little removable slide to capture the gagle of wires.

I designed and built a vacuum attachment. Plus I bought a Harbor Freight 2 hp vacuum. (just like Tim Allen...Give me horsepower). And my daughter painted her A-Cuz sign. I guess she likes it.

I cut my HDPE plastic on my table saw. It cut great. The cutting board didn't do so well as it melts at a lower tempature. Yet it does cut. The band saw should be great too. The slower the blade speed the better to avoid melting.

I've been busy all Easter weekend. I've made several plaques and I'll post pictures later, (I hope). I also reconfigured the z axis motor mount and bearing assembly. This new system works so much better. The z axis speed is improved from 20 ipm to 40 ipm.

Here's a picture of a variation of my daughters theme. I did an alternate cutout of a previous plaque.

I like the Z-Axis mod. I upgraded my X & Y to 1/2" Acme when I built my JGRO, but left the Z per the plans with 1/4" (but used stainless.) I've had some problems with it losing steps (with disastrous results) and have been using a feed rate of 10 IPM for the Z; and this is with a relatively light trim router. It's a pain when I write G-Code because I use 30 IPM for the others. You may have given me the inspiration I needed to upgrade my Z to 1/2".
Ed

edo,
I'm going to update the Y and X soon. I'm hoping for faster speeds there too.

Here's some pictures of art work cut this past Easter Weekend. We had the In-Laws over and I gave Charles a good dose of CNC 101. He enjoyed it. Anytime I was cutting, Charles was there to watch. The two white signs will become presents that Charles will take back to his neighbors. They take care of each other, by feeding the dogs, picking up the mail, and keeping an eye on their house. Little gifts are always appreciated.

I'm still at it. Tonight I cut and mounted the motor mounts for X-axis. They cut and assembled without incident. The CNC is so spoiling me. I'm starting expect perfection and I'm getting it most of the time. Spoiled cuttings are usually user error.

Tonight this modification increased my speeds from 30 to 40 IPM.

I'm still jealous of hearing guys getting 70 to 100 IPM. Someday soon, I'll increase the power supply voltage from 24V to 40V. That will speed things up. :rainfro:

What mod gave you the increase - the motor mount?
I like it - would you mind sharing the G-Code for the cutout? What material did you use - HDPE or UHMW?

I would have to extend my lead screws to add motor mounts, fortunately I just got an email from Enco for free shipping on orders over $50.

Today through April 30th, get Free UPS Shipping* when you purchase $50 or more in merchandise from Enco.

Take advantage of this exclusive offer by entering WBARN7 in the promo code box on the shopping cart page at use-enco.com, or mention the code when you call 800-USE-ENCO and speak to a friendly sales associate. Hurry, this offer expires Monday, April 30th, 2007, so act today!

Edo, I'll post the G-code tonight. Have you bought your bearings yet? You need to tell me the diameter of the bearings you intend to use.

You might have noticed the length of the mount to be longer then necessary. I plan to reduce that length soon. Reducing the length of mount will shift an inch of leadscrew to the other end of the table. I can use it there to install a spring loading tensioner. I'm going to copy Jay's version of the spring tensioner.

The material used is a kitchen cutting board. I found a merchandiser that sells large cutting boards for just $4 each. They are 7/16 inch thick. Not a good as HPDE or UHMW plastics as it melts at lower temps when cutting on a scroll saw. Cutting with the CNC is fine though.

Here's a link to Jay's method (http://www.cncjay.com/photo_gallery.cfm?cat_id=4)of spring tensioning the leadscrew. I'm going to add this to only the tail end of the X-axis. I have 1/2" acme single start, he uses the two start. I'm debating to change my leadscrew someday. I can add that to the Future upgrades list.

I ordered some extra bearings when I first built it. They're R8-2RS, .5000 x 1.1250 x .3125. Here's a pic of the bearing - you can see where I embedded it in the side of the gantry and double nutted it. The other side is just pushed up against the motor with a 1/4 to 1/2" Lovejoy coupler. I got them on ebay from this guy (http://cgi.ebay.com/R8-2RS-BEARINGS-BIKES-CYCLES-MOTORS-ROUTERS-12-PCS_W0QQitemZ180042670237QQihZ008QQcategoryZ67033QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem), about a buck a piece with shipping. He has them in other quantities too.

I'm using 1/2" cutting boards too. There's a wholesale place that sells 18x24" ones for $12. I just haven't built anything important enough yet to justify the cost of 3/4" UHMW.

I just got an 8x12 mini-lathe and am actually looking forward to redoing my lead screws and turning the ends. I got some extra 3/8" Lovejoy couples to use.

edo,
Here are two configs of the stepper mount. A long leg and a short legged version. If you use two nuts, then the long legged file is what you want. I tap my acme nut with a 10-24 set screw. The single nut is easier to install.

Just load these files directly into Mach3. Set 0,0,0 in the lower left corner of your plastic. Top of plastic is z=0.

Thickness of cut is 12.2 mm or just shy of 1/2 inch. I think my cuts are .25 deep per pass. Let me know if it works out for you.

Work and life kept me away from CNC until last night. I made a trophy for my sailplane club contest and presented it today to a happy recipent.

Congrats, its always good when a diy cnc can produce products such as these.

Jason

My latest project is cutting plastic letters in an effort to rejuvenate our subdivisions Entry Monument. Its old, built in 1960s during the day of the Kennedy administration, when Camelot was all the rage. Huntsville has a big history in the NASA space race, and this neighborhood housed some of the Scientists that helped propel man to the moon. 40 years later, the brick and mortar still stands, but the letters have grown old.

We will pressure wash the bricks before mounting the new letters. The plastic letters are from my favorite material. Kitchen Cutting Boards. Cuts great and very strong.

Nice job on the sign, what program are you using to do the lettering, is there a free program for making letters like you did?

I used VcarvePro. Its pricey, but it delivers. Any text font that on your computer can be cut in 3D.

yeah that is nice software, i got the demo and i'm working towards getting the full version, but i was just trying to get something temporary for the time being, found a couple but they are no vcarve,

Jordan,
These letters can be done with Mach3 and LazyCam. You'd need a v-bit and straight bit. You'd also need to trace your text in a drafting package. Then in Lazycam, you'd off set your cutting to stay outside the boundry. My first signs were done that way. VcarvePro makes it so much easier. No tracing required, and it knows how much to offset the vee-bit too.

Here's my daughter, A-cuz, doing some pressure washing and helping me complete the project.
Dave

nice job on the letters.

I am already making ideas of stuff I want to make.

That looks great. How big was the cutting board you cut the letter "C" out of?

The cutting boards measure (from memory) 14 x 20 inches. The Letter C is 19.5 inches high.

Funny that you ask about the C because, the Gothic font I used had that letter wider the tall. So on that letter, I had to explode the VcarvePro font into individual elements. From there I could scale it in width. It's still very impressive. I also had to rotate the letter in VcarvePro before cutting it, because my JGRO will only cut 15 inches in Y.
Dave

The letters look great! Good to see you got A-cuz using power tools - my daughter couldn't pick a drill out of a lineup.

I never did thank you for the motor mount files - Thanks! Haven't gotten around to using them yet, though.

Ed

I noticed in the shot with you daughter there is a shield or coat of arms on the left of the wall. Do you have something special planed for that?

Yes, I've got a Shield designed, that I'm cutting tonight, for that location.

Tonight I cut the shield to replace the wooden relic. Mounting is a job for this weekend.

Here is the before and after duplication.

If you are interested in my process, I take a photo and using TurboCad, I import the picture. Then I trace the shape and save as a dxf file. Then I kick VcarvePro into action. Retrieve that dxf file, manipulate the lines to create closed boundries, and start the cyber cutting. After I get it looking good on the computer, I export the gcode to Mach3 compatible files.

On this design, I skinnied up the shield a little to get the maximum height and maximum plastic. I was again limited by the cutting boards width. I also added some parallel cutting paths for grins.
Dave

Some how I just knew you’d have something like that planed, did you use a 90* cutter on that? It looks great!

Yes, I did use a 90 degree vee bit. Cutting depth for the 3 interior cuts was .1 and .12 inches. The outside chamfer has a cutting depth of .25 inches. The final cut uses a straight 1/4 inch single flute (straight) cutter to break it free from the kitchen.

Here's my latest project. A plaque for a friend at work who is a big fan of his local youth soccer team. I'm an engineer and so is my friend. So it only made sense that I made him draw the image in dxf format. I think it made him feel more part of the project.

I'm starting to dabble with the idea of building a wooden clock. Here's a link to Gary's clock plans (http://www.pathcom.com/%7Eu1068740/downloads-clock-2003.html).

On his webpage, there are dxf files of the gears. So I cut a practice gear from MDF just to get an idea of scale and just to do it. Anyway, its pretty cool to make a small gear.

Recommended wood is a fine cut of cabinet grade plywood. Thin too. 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 inch thick plys.

Dave,

That plaque cam out sweet! I did some reading on clock making in the past and the ply might hold up ok, but I remember reading that if made of MDF they look good but grind them self’s to dust. Maybe another cutting board…

I'm sure the cutting boards will find a use with the clocks. I agree, MDF is definately out.

OK, here is some plastic clock parts. The big gear is supposed to be wood, but what the heck, plastic is so much fun.

Keep it up Dave. What was your feed rate, type of bit, # of passes and time of cut?

Jason

Jason,
Cutting is slow. Bit diameter is .125. Feed a miniscule 18 ipm. Depth of cut, .125 inches/pass. Bit is single flute and flat bottom. I saw more chatter with this cut, then any previous piece. Had to slow down the feed to stop it.

Dave - I've had good success cutting 1/2" cutting boards at at 20IPM at depths of .15 to .16 allowing me to get through the board in three passes. (Actual size of the board is .475". I use an 1/8" spiral upcut bit (Whiteside #RU1600). I set the variable speed control on my trim router and run just above half speed - this keeps the material from melting.

I understand aircraft plywood is good for clocks if you're not using solid hardwoods.

Ed

I also use the whiteside RU1600 upcut but I cut at 40"/min (1016mm/min) and .20" passes (~5 mm). I normally have the bosch 2.25hp router at full speed with no melting problems.

Jason

I seem to have more success running the router rpm faster then slower. I'm going to cut some more clock gears tonight. I'll run them full rpm speed and see how it goes. I don't have an up cut though. Need to get one.

Faster spindle rpm is definitely better. Less chatter, no melting, and less fuzzy residual. All that translates to faster feed rates. (Not all plastic is created equal but this resists melting)

I added more clock gears to my collection last night. This weekend, I'm shooting to have the escapement clicking. That will be fun.

My sailplane club has a monthly contest and I'm the CD. I don't normally give away trophies due to costs, but now that I have a cnc, I've changed my tune.

The pictured trophy was cut using VcarvePro. I composed it the night before and cut it the morning of the contest. Didn't have time to color the letters. The recipient seemed to really like it.

Dave,

Looks like you've come a long way since starting this thread. Really great work on your build and the projects you're turning out. And you're still able to get out and fly!!??!! Looks like you guys had a beautiful day for catching some thermals.

I'm about 1/3rd of the way through my build and have spent the last several weeks upgrading my Cad capabilites from ModelCad to AutoCad. It's been worth the effort. I've actually learned how to make a 3D solid model of a horizontial stab and convert it to G-code. But the files are way too big for the trial version of Mach3 (limit of 1000 lines of code). But I'm confident enough now to take the plunge and accelerate the build.

This CNC stuff is as addictive as soaring.;)

Take care,
Mike

Mike,
Pretty soon, I'm going to buy the Compufoil dxf output module. Then I'll cut some balsa ribs and build something from scratch that flys. I'm thinking about a 100 inch (plus) flying wing. I've always wanted one. A European swept wing, constant cord sailplane with winglets. :rainfro:

Good luck with finishing your table. Post some pictures.

Changing the subject, I'm wondering how many of my faithful readers use the Quick Change Collet (http://www.hightechsystemsllc.com/index_files/Page2045.htm)? I'm thinking of buying one. I find it very tedious to change bits. Anybody else thinking in that direction?

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the tip on the brush. How's that clock coming?

Hey VB,
I'm kind of stalled on the clock for now. This past weekend I cut a plaque for my Niece's fiance. He's young businessman, pilot, instructor and more. He was once the youngest jet pilot licenced in the US. That's the story I'm hearing. Last time I saw him he took me on a ride in his Cessna 310. It was fun. Here's the video I shot of that adventure.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=zeW4QVsKEKU

You can see how proud I was of this plaque and that I really didn't want to give it to him. He had to grab it and pull it out of my little hands. That's what it looks like in the picture. My sister was visiting too and she helped with the antique painting.

I'm still busy. Busy and work and busy when I get home. Here's another plaque for Jason's Dad, who is in the airport business down in Mississippi.

I tried the masking techique this time. First I painted the wood white. Then I covered the wood with kitchen counter shelfliner (sticky plastic contact paper). It cuts ok, and peels great too. After I carved the picture and letters, I painted the border white, then painted the letters red.

Finally I peeled the plastic and I was pretty happy with the result.

Dave,

The plaques you have been turning out look great, and I’ll have to file away that contact paper technique for later use.

I cut and sanded this work of art last night. It's cube art for a co-worker who really likes his tractor. Did I tell you I live in Alabama? His story is that his grandfather gave him a Ford Tractor. He's a city boy with farming blood.

People are so different.

I've been working on the blue "design center" plaque for a week at least. Just about finished with it. The one's letters were hand painted. I painted it and I think this will be the last hand painting, as the sticky paper masking is superior. I cut the wood for this one before the Mississippi plaque.

I lost my focus on the clock for now. But I don't have idle hands. Next Saturday is another NASF Glider contest. I'm going to cut two trophys for that event. Here's the VcarvePro rendering of the trophy. The event features sailplanes with a max wingspan of 100 inches, and a max cost of $150 (not including monocoat and electronics.)

The two trophies will be for "winner" overall and "Top 2 Meter".

If you are a Glider pilot, get your airplane charged and come a visit this Saturday.

Two quick and dirty trophies for Saturdays contest. It was more dirty then quick. Painting and sanding is such a chore. I'm getting better though. I use a better quality white primer now. Primers cover the porous MDF better then regular paints. The non-primers really soak into the wood.

On my first cutting, the Gantry had an interference with my hold down clamps. That cause a big problem and I had to start over. That means pre-painting a new board, masking it with sticky backed plastic, and of course cutting it.

All's well that ends well. The sticky backed plastic is great, although it doesn't cut perfectly clean. Pealing it off is easy.

The second disappointment is the green 2 meter plaque. Somehow, I got the z-axis set to deep and all the features are too wide. I don't have time to redo it, or I would.

I'm still at it. Working and playing in various ways. Flying sailplanes is always fun and contests are great ways to spend the day. Last Saturday everybody got their tails waxed by a veteran pilot who flew a 2 meter sailplane and beat the field of pilots with 2.5 meter airplanes. So he wins both trophys.

I also cut a plaque for a friend at work who is restoring a 1967 camaro. I found a photo on the web and using VcarvePro I was able to trace the image and carve this plaque.

Kitchen Counter Shelf Liner...Genius!
I give that a try too!


I'm still busy. Busy and work and busy when I get home. Here's another plaque for Jason's Dad, who is in the airport business down in Mississippi.

I tried the masking techique this time. First I painted the wood white. Then I covered the wood with kitchen counter shelfliner (sticky plastic contact paper). It cuts ok, and peels great too. After I carved the picture and letters, I painted the border white, then painted the letters red.

Finally I peeled the plastic and I was pretty happy with the result.

abell,
20 ft of the liner for $5 at Walrusmart. Peal and stick.

Today, I cut my first model airplane ribs on my CNC machine. I used a .031 dia bit to cut balsa. It was great and inspires me to build more airplanes. I also cut the tapered spar too. This is just too fun.

Looks good Dave. Keep us supplied with pics so we can see how the build progresses.

Jason

Jason,
The magnets shown in the pictures below is a new building method for me. It works great for my steel topped work bench. Researching the magnetic building web pages, I found some plans for vertical hold-down clamps. The plans called for plywood, but I substituted 1/2" plastic. Here's a picture of those clamps. Although they aren't doing anything in this picture, I intend to employ them during the gluing of the spar caps.

Dave,

How smooth of a cut are you getting with the 1/32" cutter? do you need to sand the edges much? And the parts look great!

Hey V&B,
Generally, no sanding required with the little cutter. Very smooth. If the cutter doesn't penetrate all the way through the material, then a little scuffing is required. It's not problem to sand. Leave your vacuum system off when you cut thin balsa, or you'll be digging the pieces out of your vacuum bag.

Hello All-

First, I'm a newbie who has been visiting this site for the last few weeks. I have always been interested in CNC and when I saw the plans for the JGRO, I knew I HAD to build one of these.

I do a lot of woodworking, so building the projects has been fun and rewarding. Unfortunately, my wife has the digital camera on vacation with her, so I have no pictures to show.

Anyways, I thought it would be fun to make model airplane parts, and after seeing the pictures the GliderGider posted of his balsa ribs and jigs, it pumped me up even more to finish this project.

I never even though about using the CNC machine to make jigs (like he did for the spar hold-downs). I love making jigs, but they take so much time (such as home-made edge banding clamps). I built one and it took me almost 2 days, and I need like 30 of them! Well, once I finish my JGRO, I'll use it to make jigs!

Thanks for the inspiration, all of you. I love this news group! It's like sitting in a room full of geniuses sharing their ideas and pictures! I'm trying to absorb as much as I can.

Brad

Glider-
Been lurking on your thread for a while now and was wondering when you were finally going to use your machine to cut planes/gliders. Are you using the 1/32" diamond downcut bit that quicker used to use? ( http://www.drilltechnology.com/router/downcut.html ) Are you leaving tabs on your parts to hold them in the sheet until you are ready for them? And what software are you using for these cuts? Thanks for all the great info you have provided.
-Mega

Brad and Mega,
Thanks for the kudos. I constantly amaze myself how much fun this machine is. My only regret is not making a giant CNC :) I have loads of fun and just as Brad said, it dawns on me slowly, that hey, I can build tools. I can machine the spars in a double taper. I can cut that myself.

I did buy my .032 bits from drilltechnology. They are so small, its hard to see the teeth. For the life of me, I don't remember if I bought up-cut or down-cut. I'll report later on that subject. I'll review the package label. I'm guessing down-cut because the edges were very clean.

TABS: On my first rib cuts, no I didn't use tabs. No ill effects by not having them either. I might use tabs in the future though.

Software: I'm using Compufoil for the airfoil stuff. TurboCad if I have to draw or modify a drawing. VcarvePro for the g-code generation and Mach3 to put the bit to the wood.

hi

Glider very nice work indee

cheers

I just examined the container for the bits. They are downcut bits.

Hi Gliderguider. Nice work on the ribs. And I like the jigs you've made with the HDPE to hold down the spars. What kind of bit did you use to cut the HDPE and where did you get it? What depth of cut and feed rate are you using? Do you know what your router speed is (rpm's)? From what I've read about bit selection for the material to be cut, did you use a single edge "O" flute?

Lots of questions. Sorry. I am so close to finishing my table I can't stand it. I've been using a smaller cnc router (Dremel spindle, 1/8" bits) my dad built (and graciously let me use :p ) to make parts for my larger table. I'm about ready to make some bearing plates from HDPE (5/8" thick) and would like to cut them on the smaller table.

In the mean time, I've bought some software and actually learned enough to try a 3D cut. Went for broke and tried the highly undercambered E214 airfoil. Pretty rough as seen in the attached pictures, but that's due to inexperience and a limited number of bits on hand (1 :rolleyes: ). Proved the concept tho so I can't wait until I can try this on a DLG wing.

Best regards,
Mike

Mike,
Good work on your test cuts. Looks great. I remember the feeling of getting close to finishing my CNC. Enjoy the rush.

There's really no magic in bits from my prospective. For RC model frames in 1/4 ply, I use a .125 2 flute bit. Up-cut, but I also like the side cut. I wish I had a downcut.

I don't have a .0625 dia bit yet. That might me superior. For the balsa sheets, I have and use the .032 dia down-cut. The link is above.

For all the plaques I use a .25 bit. I use upcuts, and sidecuts and the sidecuts are probably give the crisper edge.

I made my bearing plates from MDF and I think its just as good as the plastic. For the pipe alignment plates, the plastic is a must.

So far all my cutting experience is with 2.5 D items. I haven't done a 3D project yet. Its just a matter of priorities. I'll get there someday.

I don't know what a "O" flute is. Maybe you can ejumakacate me. :)

Congrats on getting your first 3D airfoil cut.

quick question, since I know you did it.

What Size wood screws did you use? I know to predrill and all, I was just wondering

#8 1.5 inch and 2.0 inch.
#6 1.25 inch

I probably used some 2.5 inch when mounting the bottom end plates to the base structure. That's a double thick MDF so its a long connection.

Tonight I cut some more ribs. I needed to redesign the wing because of a joiner issue. So I cut both wing halves out of a single 4 X 6 X 24 inch sheet of balsa.

Here's the subassembly of the wing ribs. I did a little sanding but very minimal. I used Compufoil to design the ribs. I love that program.

This wing has a 7 inch root and tapers to 5 inches at the tips. The span is 34 inches.

Here's a link to the little bitty bits I used tonight.
http://www.drilltechnology.com/router/downcut.html

On the label, you will see the partnumber is DCD-.0312F. The first DC means Down-Cut.

Tonight I started gluing spars together. Cut, placed and glued the shear webs into place. I also cut the wing joiner position. I used the brass tube as the cutter. So far so good. Just one wing tonight.

The computer image is from the program Compufoil. Check it out at www.compufoil.com/index.shtml and tell Eric I sent you. Its a nice program and it outputs a DXF file designed for CNC machines.

Tonight I started gluing spars together. Cut, placed and glued the shear webs into place. I also cut the wing joiner position. I used the brass tube as the cutter. So far so good. Just one wing tonight.

The computer image is from the program Compufoil. Check it out at Compfoil.com and tell I sent you. Its a nice program and it outputs a DXF file designed for CNC machines.

I noticed that the "p" was left out of Compufoil.com just in case anyone tries and wonders why they can't connect.

I used to do a lot of scratch building and a CNC machine would have been nice. Back then I don't even think there was such a term as "CNC" as you would have needed a whole warehouse just for the computer to run it. Ain't progress nice! Well maybe sometimes.

Seeing your posts and pictures makes me want to get started again.

Cheers

Don

Don,
Good catch. I fixed the web address spelling mistake.

Below is a low angle picture showing the fuzzies from the CNC cuts. This is using the down-cut bits.

I built a new vacuum box (low pressure) to hold my future balsa ribs during the routing process. The size will accept an 8 x 36 inch sheet of balsa. I have to check the flatness of the cutting surface which I know already is off by about .020 at least. The perf board may just get shaved to achieve the flatness.

Good thread.

Are you using your DC to power the table?

Steve,
Yup, I power the vac table with the dust collector. I have a splitter on the DC. When cutting balsa, I let the dust fly and divert all the vacuum to the suction table.

I'm still around and I'm still cutting wood. This summer I took some vacation and an other distractions consumed me. Yet, I'm still have a great time with the CNC machine. Here are some pictures of the work done since I've last reported into the zone.

I've cut some custom picture frames, and I've started experimenting with some ice tea coasters.

The puzzles are also photo frames.

I forgot to mention the blue feathered airplane pictured above. It is cut from Fan Fold Insulation. It's a well known foam design. I added the scalloped trailing edges for fun. This foam airplane is finished by adding an electric motor, battery, receiver, and 2 servos. The finished airplane is often used in combat, where two similarly sized airplanes a flown in close proximity, the pilots trying to knock the other airplane from the sky by mid-air impacts. Being foam, these airplanes often just bounce off each other and continue flying. It's actually pretty hard knocking another airplane from the sky.

May you take closeup pics of the Z-axis? I want to see how it should look put together.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Bart,
Lets start with this photo.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32113&d=1171941152
What area are you most interested?
Dave

Here's a pic of mine. I used a Lovejoy coupler and a flanged bearing on the bottom to hold the leadscrew.

Basically im trying to understand how the stepper/leadscrew is connected to the z-axis to be able to move it if that makes any sense.

So right behind the router hold down assembly.

Thanks alot.

My machine is not a good "go-by" for your needs. I don't use a Z-axis backlash nut. I just use a single plastic nut. Its very difficult to get a good picture. Here's my best effort.

Its a straight down shot of the acme rod entering the plastic nut. I can confirm, that when I was building my Z, I was also confused. I seem to remember the plans have a discrepancy with regard to this nut.

At the bottom of the acme rod, the acme rod just hangs free. There is no bearing or other radial or axial restraint. The rod is so short that whip is not a problem. But, you will need to restrain the threaded rod in its axial direction to prevent play.

I use regular Vaseline on all the nuts for lubrication. You will see that in the picture.

The good news for the z axis, gravity is your friend when it comes to backlash. Dave

If you let it hang from the motor you need a tight coupler. I went the other way and let the leadscrew sit on a flanged bearing and used a Lovejoy coupler, which would come apart if not supported.

I used a delrin antibacklash nut as shown in the JGRO plans mounted between the two bearings (as in Dave's pic). And as Dave points out, gravity takes care of the backlash and you could probably do without the adjusting portion of the nut - just a single piece of threaded delrin would work.

Here's another coaster. Tomorrow, I'll cut it.

My machine is not a good "go-by" for your needs. I don't use a Z-axis backlash nut. I just use a single plastic nut. Its very difficult to get a good picture. Here's my best effort.

Its a straight down shot of the acme rod entering the plastic nut. I can confirm, that when I was building my Z, I was also confused. I seem to remember the plans have a discrepancy with regard to this nut.

At the bottom of the acme rod, the acme rod just hangs free. There is no bearing or other radial or axial restraint. The rod is so short that whip is not a problem. But, you will need to restrain the threaded rod in its axial direction to prevent play.

I use regular Vaseline on all the nuts for lubrication. You will see that in the picture.

The good news for the z axis, gravity is your friend when it comes to backlash. Dave

Thanks for the pic its actually very helpful. So all the anti-backlash assembly's should have a nut in them(glued I guess?) that connects to the threaded rod? Is that correct.

Bart,
Just to be clear, all of my nuts are made from plastic. Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic. Or something equivalent. The plastic is between 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. (12-20 mm). I cut the threads using a home made thread cutter. I'm pretty sure there is a picture in this thread. The plastic nut is bolted to the MDF wood. The wood has a clearance hole for the drive screw while the plastic nut does all the work.
I hope this helps.
Dave

Bart,
Just to be clear, all of my nuts are made from plastic. Ultra High Molecular Weight plastic. Or something equivalent. The plastic is between 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. (12-20 mm). I cut the threads using a home made thread cutter. I'm pretty sure there is a picture in this thread. The plastic nut is bolted to the MDF wood. The wood has a clearance hole for the drive screw while the plastic nut does all the work.
I hope this helps.
Dave

Again thanks for the help.

How is it bolted to the MDF? I thought one was supposed to get a tube thread that and epoxy it to the MDF. Did you use a square piece bolt that to the MDF, drill a hole and thread that?

Bart,
Glad you found the picture helpful. I fastened the plastic nut to the z axis with regular trumpet headed wood screws. I used a big ugly washer under the trumpet head for purchase. I don't remember anything about glue. Its been a half a year ago that I assembled the device. And frankly, I took some short cuts. It still works great. I used wood screws everywhere. I started using the hex bolts as described in the plans. You know, all the tapping and threading. After a while I said "why bother" Just use long wood screws and pilot all the holes. Basically its ends up the same. I skipped most of the dowels too.

What I still remember is being confused by the Z axis drawings. There are some errors on the drawing. Yet the drawings are amazing, fantastic, and heck, I've made some drawings, and these are great in comparison.

After showing the Ice Tea Coaster to my friend John Miller, he offered me some faux stone counter top material, 1/2 inch thick. I don't know what it's called. I was worried about dulling my cutting bits because it felt like, you know, stone.

Anyway, I gave it a try and John now has a couple of ice tea coasters. He and his wife can relax on Saturday afternoon and watch Alabama and Auburn football teams go at it this season, knowing his new favorite end table is protected.

I love this material. What's it called, I wanta buy some?
Dave

Dave:
the material is called "Corian". That particular piece is about 20 years old. It was a common man made counter top material back in the 70s and 80s. I'm not sure where you can buy it now. I quess we'll have to look on the internet.
the coasters look great.

Corian
Its made by Dupont and they won't sell to other than a trained and certified installer. There are other makes but most have the same restrictions. That said its mostly used for counter tops. And as such there is waste, this waste is available for small projects from many sources. Locally a cabinet shop would be a good place to start. I am sure it comes up on ebay from time to time.

Garry

Edit

I just did a quick search and here is an exchange from a guy that sells sink cutouts. More available I an sure..
http://www.signs101.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-1711.html

garry

Last week I rigged up a vacuum pump to aid in bagging some future foam/fiberglass wings. It's a refrigerator compressor. The pump needed a support/carrying frame, and this is what I cut to accomplish that feat.

A couple of datos a dowel cavity, and some reverse Vcarveing. Last thing to do is mount a cooling fan somewhere somehow to cool this hot pump.

Here's video of my recent airplane adventures.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=o79qIO-Elms

The foam airplane is a flat airfoil and cut on my CNC with the aid of VcarvePro and Mach3. That's it.

All previous cuttings, have been at best 2.5 D. It's been neat, but I've been craving the full 3D experience. So I invested in the Vectrics 3Dcuts software and now I'm fully capable of cutting some intricate wings.

Here are two winged ideas that I'm toying with. I elected to cut the simpler of the two model, and I thought I'd share this with you folks thinking about getting into 3D.
Dave

This is a first/second attempt at cutting a real 3D model. Not to belittle the 2.5D stuff that I've done so far, but I've been wanting to do the real 3D for a while and I'm finally going down that road.

Yesterday, the larger foam model, took a crash, due to operator error. So I tried again with a smaller model, this one ins only 6 inches in span.

I thought you guys thinking about building a DIY CNC router might appreciate knowing that even a JGRO can cut pretty decent 3D models.

Dave

All previous cuttings, have been at best 2.5 D. It's been neat, but I've been craving the full 3D experience. So I invested in the Vectrics 3Dcuts software and now I'm fully capable of cutting some intricate wings.

Here are two winged ideas that I'm toying with. I elected to cut the simpler of the two model, and I thought I'd share this with you folks thinking about getting into 3D.
Dave

Dave,

Will 3D cut work as a standalone or do you need V-Carve pro?

Bill

Dave,

Will 3D cut work as a standalone or do you need V-Carve pro?

Bill

It is a stand alone program, and you can import it into v-carve pro also.

Joe

Here's a little plaque I made for a friend who rides Harley's. His and her models.

I asked her she was good with the paint brush, and she replied yes.

Cut with Vectric VcarvePro, and a new 1/4 inch ball nose mill. I also used a 60 degree vee bit.
Dave

I'm using 1/2" cutting boards too. There's a wholesale place that sells 18x24" ones for $12. I just haven't built anything important enough yet to justify the cost of 3/4" UHMW.


Hi Dave, where is this wholesale place located? I live very close to you in Huntsville. The cutting boards I get from WallyWorld just arn't thick enough (.358")!

Cheers
dewalt58

Hi DeWalt,
Good to hear that you live so close by. We will have to get together real soon.

Regarding the cutting boards, my source has dried up. I did finally buy some .75 inch thick plastic from McMasterCar. It's definitely a better class of plastic then the cutting boards. Yes it cost a bit more, but the quality of cut is far superior to the plastic cutting boards.

Dave

Thanks Dave for the reply on the cutting boards. Ditto on the get togeather, I used to do RC old timers, slope, free flight years ago, yep, I'm an old stick builder...Playboy senior, buzzard bombshell, Korta, Paragon glider 12' wing. Still got kits stuffed away in the attic, aged balsa!!...LOL Mainly was a scrach builder of em, didn't like kits back then. Keep thinking I'll get back into it some day. Been into this CNC for a couple years and got the bug, work around it so much its a wonder I want to do it at home with wood, must be be that creativeness in me. Anyway...got to get ready for the day job, drop a line when you can....dewalt57 at yahoo.com....thats my addy or here as dewalt58, threads on Joes 2006 CNC. Take care


Cheers
AL

Try these folks for cutting boards:

http://thecuttingboardfactory.com/

The end of my JGRO is coming closer by the day. I expect another month, and then, I'll but cutting with the Hybrid 4X4. Last night I cut the first bits of MDF. I have some more purchases to make in the metal department, some MDF to cut, and more assembly to do too.

I'm really pleased that I can cut all the MDF on the JGRO. And getting a larger cutting bed is going to be absolutely fantastic.

The completed 4X4 picture below is not mine, but a picture of Joe's Hybrid 4X4. The other picture shows my JGRO cutting some 4X4 MDF, with the partial frame of the 4x4 in in the back ground.

I've really had fun with the JGRO, but it's time to move on.
Dave

Good to know that you can cut a joes 4x4 with jgro. Thanks for the info Dave. I know it's bad but I've already started thinking about my next table even though the first is not completed. What parts I can transfer over, additional materials, space needed. There was going to be some cutting length issues with Joes2006 so it's a good feeling knowing this build will assist me in the next even if the jgro won't be running for a few more months.

jck,
Before deciding to plunge into the 4x4, I often considered mod'g my JGRO. Mostly, I was thinking about widening the Y axis. I dreamed of designing a joecnc2006 type gantry. The key to the gantry would be to flip the skate bearings around to give more Y distance. I've always hated the narrow Y axis range of the JGRO.

Still I've enjoyed it a bunch and I learned a bunch too.

Hope your decision to complete or upgrade the JGRO goes well.

More cutting on the Hybrid 4x4 today. This is the coolest project. The attached file shows 2 sets of Y axis Gantry parts. I used VcarvePro of course and my JGRO. This is too easy.

I'm a big admirer of the JoeCNC2006, so when he expanded the design to 4 feet by 4 feet, I had to jump in. Joe's drawings are just as good (maybe better) then the JGRO. Can you believe that? And you know the JGRO drawings are good.

I finished cutting all the major MDF pieces last night. Glue and paint is required next. I also procured, painted and started drilling the 3/4 x 3/4 iron angle used on the 8020 rails. That's fun too.

Once you get past this point its all down hill from there, Its a fast build isn't it. (makes it easy with everything layed out in the plans) :)

Joe

This is exactly what us new to cnc need to see. The progression from a "starter" cnc setup to an advance in design. This design seems very managable. Easy to cut mdf sizes, easy to assemble, and easy to adjust. How much more can you ask?

Can't wait to see more in progress pics and all the new projects you tackle once you are done.

I took most of the weekend off, visiting in-laws and out-laws. It's the price all of us CNC'rs must pay to have hobbies.

Anyway, I got home and assembled the V-bearings to the dual Y gantries. Shown in the picture, I have both gantries on the same side. Each will eventually find an opposing rail.

You can see the JGRO in the background to give you the idea of scale. This is a pretty big machine.

I've started painting the 4X4 mdf. Not my favorite thing to do.

So, I took a break and cut a car part. A sun visor ceiling clip. The original broke due to fatigue fracture. The new one is cut from HDPE 3/4 inch thick.

The design of the clip required me to photograph its profile. Kick start the Vectrics VcarvePro and start drawing. Vcarve can actually do the tracing, but I wanted to manually draw this one. It took about 15 minutes of drawing, 15 minutes to generate the g code, and then I was cutting.

I made two part using a 1/8 dia bit. Both parts worked perfectly.

I've been painting the MDF. The color is Hammered Metal Silver. Here's a pre-assembly picture. The obligatory photo of my JGRO is in the background. A big difference in size. Sort of a CNC machine on Viagra.

glidergider
off subject, did i see a post of yours using a harbour freight dust collector? if it was you do you have a link? did you say it is fairly quiet? which one did you use? thanks for any info you can provide.
greg

Greg,
Here's the dust collector
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45378
In-store specials was $169. Web was $199. You might get lucky

Here's the hose kit you will need. You won't find a better deal anywhere.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93601

Here's a remote control. I bought a different one, and mine was more expensive, but still just a 1.5 hp switch.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97097

thanks glidergider, greg

No cutting today cuz I spent all day today @ the Mach3 convention in Knoxville Tn. I met some cool people too. The highlight was meeting HayTay, Tony Mac plus a bunch of other zone friends.
Learned how to program some Visual Basic programs & create screens too.
You need to go next year.

yea, wish i could have gone..... Hey so now you can make a nice screen for the CNC 4x4 Hybrid :D

Joe

Joe,
I do have a few items in mind for Screen4. I want to add the other macro button of Greg's with the laser X-Y zero. And I want to combine some other DROs into the first screen of Mach3 too. It shouldn't be a problem to add the 4x4 logo. Oh so many projects, and of course the big one. I can't forget that one. (the 4x4 hybrid).

I just wanted to second all that GliderGuider said about the CNC conference this weekend. It was great to meet all the people, especially Heytay and Tony. I had a good time and I think that I even learned a thing or two. Thanks to all that were there and especially all of the "presenters".

Any pictures or video of it?

Joe,
I didn't see any cameras. Not even one.

Another real interesting guy to talk to is Mark Wilson. He's also building a Hybrid builder. He's got lots of things going on in his life. Never a boring moment.

Plus I talked a bunch to David "beone" (forgot last name). David is an aluminum casting enthusiast. I might get into that hobby someday later in the year. David was showing off his methods of casting keychains in sand. Really cool stuff.

lost foam casting, you can cast the parts for the hybrid for testing.

Yea wish i could have gone, could have met some of the hybrid builders.

joe

Joe,
I think a bunch of guys would have enjoyed meeting you too. Next year, PapaBear (Scott) said he's going to do it again.

Yes, it would be great to cast parts for the hybrid?

It's been too long since I cut some serious plastic. So today, after many long distractions, I finally got back to cutting. The Hybrid needs a good deal of plastic. 2' x 4' x 3/4" HDPE.

Of course the plans for these cuts came from Joe's 4x4 drawings. He supplied the digital data, and it was so simple to import the drawings into Vectric's VcarvePro. Since the JGRO has a limited cutting bed, I had to break the nested parts up into 4 sections. I'm very happy with the outcome.

where did you find the black if you don't mind me asking..

http://www.lairdplastics.com/component/option,com_content/task,section/id,3/Itemid,32/class_tree,WS/subclass_tree,/prod-search-box,hdpe/itemPage,1/#results
I got it from Lairdplastics in Baltimore. This is the same link I used to locate my purchase, however my particular item is gone now. When I purchased there were 38 sheets left.

Check out this item number. 111702 If you can afford the shipping, it looks like a good deal.

I'm still cutting stuff too. I love this JGRO! But I'm also looking forward to getting my Joe Hybrid working too. I plan to mothball the JGRO soon.

Meanwhile, the JGRO continues to perform. A couple days ago I was reading my AMA (airplane Modeling) magazine and I found photos of a laser cut CG Measuring Machine. I thought to myself, hey I can make that. So I sat down with my favorite software, (VcarvePro), and started drawing, measuring and creating. Within about an hour, I had the plans complete. I let it sit overnight so I could get a fresh look the next morning. The next morning I decided to cut. I'm tickled with the outcome and I've had many compliments and requests. My sailplane flying club members are forming a cue, and asking for a price.

What should I charge? Keep in mind these guys are friends. Also, I'm going to cut it, leaves the Tabs, and hit it with the sander. Then give it to them and let them assemble it. It takes a 12 x 20 inch piece of plywood.

Dave,

Is that a slimer on the CG machine??? Oh, no! :nono:

Actually, it looks pretty good. I'm thinking about building a prop gauge that I saw in AMA several months ago. But first I have to finish building Gary's wooden clock. So many projects, not enough cnc's!

Take care,
Mike

Mike,
Yup, it's a slimmer. I built it but I've never flown it. It flew about 20 years ago, but not by me. I've kept it and I should convert it to electric someday, or make it a slope glider.
Dave

Look closely at the mm scale of the CG machine. Did you notice I'm missing 110 mm?

That would probably reduce what you could charge for them...

On the mm scale, and on all the engraving, I use a 60 degree vee bit. About the narrowest width line I can cut is about .03 or 1 mm. So the mm scale is pretty much gone. One line is touching the next line.

So I'm either going to get rid of the mm scale or change it to a cm scale with 1/2 cm marks. Also pretty useless. I'm might just add the 11 cm into the mix this time.

good job dave:)..what bout ur 4 x4...any progress...update us

I installed the X-axis 8020 & Z-axis gantry recently. I'm almost ready to install acme rods. Then I'll start stealing motors & drivers off the JGRO. Plus I have to add the 4th motor & driver.

I am also at the point where u are..My MDF router is almost complete just leadscrew and motor installation in progress..

Hi Dave,

I haven’t been around in a wile. I haven’t caught up on your whole thread but it looks like you have a beast of a machine in the works. Good to see your still out there. Carry on.

Rob.

Today marks the end for my JGRO and I. We've been cutting stuff for over a year now. Its been great, but I wanted bigger and faster. This morning I removed the motors from the JGRO and moved them to the Joe 4x4 Hybrid. In the picture is the z-axis gantry that I cut with the JGRO.

The plastic chain guide is called IGUS chain. Neat stuff.

Dave

what size motors are you running.

425 in-oz with a 36 volt power supply. Keling brand.

Hi Dave,

How’s the progress in the new 4x4? Looks like your ready to put away your gliders and cut some space shuttle parts!

Rob.

Rob,
You are correct. I really need to change my forum name. I still fly gliders, but my passion is the CNC machine. I'll post some pictures soon of things that I've cut.
Dave

Today marks the end for my JGRO and I. We've been cutting stuff for over a year now. Its been great, but I wanted bigger and faster. This morning I removed the motors from the JGRO and moved them to the Joe 4x4 Hybrid. In the picture is the z-axis gantry that I cut with the JGRO.

The plastic chain guide is called IGUS chain. Neat stuff.

Dave

We used that chain rather interestingly this year... Fairly irrelevant, but once my friend returns my external HD i'll upload a pic. IGUS was nice enough to donate ~10 feet of the thick stuff.

As I retire my JGRO, I thought I'd make one more post. Maybe to inspire some future builder...., or not. Anyway, I looked at the Mach3 odometer to check how many inches I've cut, and this is what I found.

X 130.8 K inches
Y 84.8 K inches
Z 27.4 K inches

Some of that is on the new machine, but I can tell you honestly, that 98% of those inches were cut on the JGRO. That's almost 3 miles of cutting.

Not bad for a home built CNC machine.

I reset the odometer, so the next data point will be all Hybrid.
Dave

Your quite a sorce of infromation. Its nice to have folks like you here to help. You told another builder to check out Enco for leadscrews. I did and they have a great price on .50 x 6' acme thread. You stated that you would use a 6 start thread but no place can I see what start the shaft is. I am cutting parts right now for my JGRO at the rate of a few a day. Thanks for any help...Ron (Broken Balsa)

Hey BB,
Enco doesn't have a big selection of ACME. They've got the cheapest 1/2 x 10, as you know, but it's just a single start.

I'm currently using the 1/2 10 x 5 start. If you want that one, go to www.McMaster.com and search for p/n 99030A704. It costs about $60 but it will speed up your machine pretty fast. I've also had good success with the 1/2 8 x 2 start.

You can cut your own nuts from plastic too. I think I have some pictures about how I did it in an earlier post.

There are three popular acme rods for the hobbiest.
1. 10 tpi, Single start (cut your own nuts)
2. 8 tpi, Two start (cut your own nuts)
3. 10 tpi, 5 start (buy your nuts from http://www.dumpstercnc.com/leadnuts_acme.html)

For a new JGRO builder, I recommend a single start because of cost.

I saw this rocking horse on line and thought it would be great fun to cut. So, here it is, almost complete. The rocking legs are still on the table, but the job is almost done.
http://flickr.com/photos/davidcousins/2696768985/

This is another job made easy by the Hybrid CNC table. Joe2006 did a great job with this design.
Dave

Also, how can I omit the fact that the Vectric programs are pure magic when it comes to taking a design from a photo or drawing to wood.

Here is are two coasters I made for friends of the family. These are cut from Corian, 1/2 thick.

I saw this rocking horse on line and thought it would be great fun to cut. So, here it is, almost complete. The rocking legs are still on the table, but the job is almost done.
http://flickr.com/photos/davidcousins/2696768985/

This is another job made easy by the Hybrid CNC table. Joe2006 did a great job with this design.
Dave

Its looking real nice, bet when finished and stained it will be an eye popper, and good conversation piece.

Joe

Joe,
Thanks for the comment. Hey, here's a video I took about 3 months ago, just after getting my 4x4 up and running.
YouTube - Joe's 4x4 Hybrid CNC Machine
The Hybrid is so much faster and convenient then my old JGRO. I love the huge material space and the speed of cutting is about tripled.
Dave

What is working dimensions of Joe's 4x4 Hybrid CNC Machine in mm.

What is working dimensions of Joe's 4x4 Hybrid CNC Machine in mm.


1,220mm x 1,220mm x 110mm


Joe

My wife will be sewing the saddle bags that fit over these bicycle frames. Of course I used Vectrics Software to cut both the frames and the plastic clips. I used a photo of the bike while I was drawing the frames. With the Vcarve measuring tool, I sized the photo to near exact size, then started drawing the frame over the photo. The clips fit snuggly with a snap over the frame.

Here is the final product.
http://flickr.com/photos/davidcousins/2718916224/

A very large capacity. Makes me wish I were young again. Last night my daughter and I took a bike ride. About 8 miles. Man, I'm sore today. You know, where you sit kind of sore.

Me and Joes 4x4 are still at it. It's the best time of day when I can go home and run some g-code on it. I love the fact that I can put big pieces of wood in it. Start cutting, move a little and cut some more. I've been doing some sanding most recently as I've been finishing the Rocking Horse for my nephew. I've got the big stuff glued together now. Legs are next to be glued. Then finishing.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidcousins/2752317104/

Joe's 4x4 is awesome. Tonight I used it as a finishing station. It's big. 4x4 feet. I just moved the gantry as far away as possible, and I had lots of room to do other work.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidcousins/2767170730/
Check it out. Here's the rocking horse getting some wood stain. My least favorite part of wood working. At least I have a good place too get it done.
Dave

Fantastic job Dave!