Making Limit and Homing Switch actuator cams.

Have the limit and homing switches mounted, now to make the cam actuators, They would be small pieces of angle aluminum and would have to cut them down even smaller of the cam side. I have not cut the ramps yet will do that later. When cutting small aluminum parts especially with wood working tools extreme caution should always be exercised. I came up with this method and it seemed to work safely, if you do not feel secure in doing it this way then don’t., always be careful and think about what you are about to do. Accidents happen so quickly.

How I ripped one side of the aluminum angle narrower to turn it into a can actuator.

Set the saw blade just high enough to cut through the aluminum.
Set the rip fence to the desired width and secure it.
Place angle against the rip fence.
Slide a piece of would behind it to act as a pusher.
Take a second piece and lay on top of the angle.
Turn saw on.
Hold down on the second piece of wood and push the assembly slowly onto and past the blade.
Turn saw off.
IMPORTANT: Let saw blade cone to a complete stop before removing the pieces of wood.

Had the angle been narrower and there would have been a risk in the piece dropping into the gap beside the blade, I would have lowered the blade below the table surface, and clamped a piece of thin plywood to the table top and raised the blade making a zero clearance condition then cut the pieces.

Here is a shot of two of my switches, but havent installed the cams yet.

Hager

First class description. My only comment is you are using a standard wood blade, or it seems that way from the teeth. A triple chip blade is much better for aluminum, cuts cleaner and with less chance of grabbing.

First class description. My only comment is you are using a standard wood blade, or it seems that way from the teeth. A triple chip blade is much better for aluminum, cuts cleaner and with less chance of grabbing.

Yes it is a standard carbide blade, I feed it very slowly and hold a steady pressure. Have cut up to 1/2" thick with this procedure. Havent heard of a A triple chip blade, how is that different?
Hager

Triple chip blades have a chamfer on the sides of the teeth. They're usually used on hard materials, like Corian, laminates, and non ferrous metals.

http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/sawblades/Industrial_Series/Specialty/024_LU90M_D.gif

Triple chip blades have a chamfer on the sides of the teeth. They're usually used on hard materials, like Corian, laminates, and non ferrous metals.

http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/sawblades/Industrial_Series/Specialty/024_LU90M_D.gif

Thanks Gerry
Will have to check them out at HD.

Hager

Triple chip blades have a chamfer on the sides of the teeth. They're usually used on hard materials, like Corian, laminates, and non ferrous metals.

http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/sawblades/Industrial_Series/Specialty/024_LU90M_D.gif

To be really precise: a chamfer on the sides of alternate teeth, side relief on the teeth and no set to the teeth.

One tooth is square cornered, the next has chamfered corners and the next square all the way around. In a good machine on aluminum they can produce a very nice finish.

To be really precise: a chamfer on the sides of alternate teeth, side relief on the teeth and no set to the teeth.

One tooth is square cornered, the next has chamfered corners and the next square all the way around. In a good machine on aluminum they can produce a very nice finish.

Thanks,
Is it called "triple chip blade" on the package. If not do I have to examine the blades to insure I get the right one.
Hager

nice thing about using a simple carbide tipped wood blade is they are so cheap , i use my old blades for cutting aluminum , a couple weeks ago i was cutting steel tubing with one , to my surprise it works well and fast , though i strongly suggest eye protection if anything short of a face sheild ,and its a lil hard on the blade

nice thing about using a simple carbide tipped wood blade is they are so cheap , i use my old blades for cutting aluminum , a couple weeks ago i was cutting steel tubing with one , to my surprise it works well and fast , though i strongly suggest eye protection if anything short of a face sheild ,and its a lil hard on the blade

My first experience at cutting aluminum on a table saw was cutting a piece of 1/2" thick and was wearing a short sleeve shirt. Boy do thoes shavings burn. I did wear a full face guard. And since then always a long sleeve shirt.
Hager

Thanks,
Is it called "triple chip blade" on the package. If not do I have to examine the blades to insure I get the right one.
Hager

Look on the package it will tell you if it is suitable for non-ferrous metals.

dertsap; if you are cutting a lot of steel tube get a friction blade and a chop saw with the fastest rpm possible. Dewalt has one that does 5400 rpm and also makes the blade; Home Depot has both. Cut almost anything in steel; mild, stainless, alloy, high speed steel and even carbide. We have a blade that has done around 25,000 cuts in 7/8"-16gauge stainless and it is still going strong. Carbide tends to kill them but it is possible to go through a 1/2" diameter in a few minutes.

Sorry for the diversion Mr. Chips...back to aluminum cutting; which is not possible with a friction blade.

My first experience at cutting aluminum on a table saw was cutting a piece of 1/2" thick and was wearing a short sleeve shirt. Boy do thoes shavings burn. I did wear a full face guard. And since then always a long sleeve shirt.
Hager

Have an old lab coat, put it on backwards, turn the collar up over your chin and wear a face shield that comes below the collar. This way you do not get the hot chips sneaking in between your collar and neck.

Have an old lab coat, put it on backwards, turn the collar up over your chin and wear a face shield that comes below the collar. This way you do not get the hot chips sneaking in between your collar and neck.

Now, this is the way to do it.

I really panicked when I was cutting that first piece in short sleeves. Did not want to release either hand from the alum, so I couldn't turn the saw off. Felt it was too dangerous to back it up. So I just suffered through it. You only make that mistake once.
Hager

Now, this is the way to do it.

I really panicked when I was cutting that first piece in short sleeves. Did not want to release either hand from the alum, so I couldn't turn the saw off. Felt it was too dangerous to back it up. So I just suffered through it. You only make that mistake once.
Hager

Oh good I am not the only one to do something which with hindsight was not as clever as it could have been.

Ya bunch of sissy's. lol! I had a 42' steel tugboat hull that was completely welded by a 70 year old man wearing nothing but a bathing suit, flip flops, and a shield. That included all the overhead welding, too.
(I'm sure not saying "I'M" that tuff.) lol

dertsap; if you are cutting a lot of steel tube get a friction blade and a chop saw with the fastest rpm possible. Dewalt has one that does 5400 rpm and also makes the blade; Home Depot has both. Cut almost anything in steel; mild, stainless, alloy, high speed steel and even carbide. We have a blade that has done around 25,000 cuts in 7/8"-16gauge stainless and it is still going strong. Carbide tends to kill them but it is possible to go through a 1/2" diameter in a few minutes.

.


im not in the habit of cutting steel on the table saw ,i wore out my last cutting discs for my grinder doing a home project so i tried it
more out of curiousity than necessity ,i did a good number of cuts before toasting the blade