One of my passions is getting on the machine and making a part.

Lately, I've had one of our Super X2 machines to play with. I have to admit, I do enjoy the muscle of the Super X3, but I have been amazed at how such a small machine cuts.

So, I wanted to really push the mill to see what it would do, so I chucked up a 1/2" 2 flute and hogged away at a block of 6061 T6. .075" deep at 9 ipm. The finish is quite nice. Finished the part and I'm quite pleased.

Wondering if anyone out there uses an X2 for milling steel? I'd like to get some cutting depths that are commonly used.

I'd also like anyone to comment on the belt drive conversions. Are they a good value?

We have a design that would enable spindle control on the X2. Would this be of great interest to everyone?

I love making a mess. Must be the child in me.

I don't want to jump forums, but I think this is a question for you experienced folks at SyilAmerica. What is the maximum RPM you have heard of people obtaining with the X3?? I'm thinking of purchase but I want to do some steel engraving and want (maybe not need) a higher RPM spindle.
Great looking little machine and I agree with you whold heartily!!! Making chips if kinda fun!!!:rainfro:
Bill from Spartanburg!
:)

I did everything with my mini-mill.

I've cut stainless steel and steel- it worked but my HSS bits went dull quickly, I think because I wasn't using coolant, but it may have also been lack of rigidity promoting it. Or it could have been chucking in the drill chuck killing bits, Or the chinese tin coated HSS is just garbage- that could be possible too. I cut on Bridgeports with Niagra cutters and they last a lot longer. I never figured out how to use the collets that came with the mini-mill the instructions don't really cover any of that so I just left the drill chuck in it.

I installed Ron steels belt drive and it was awesome for five minutes. It smoothed the hell out of the machine and it ran almost silently. Of course I'ld gotten bored as hell of reading his pages of directions and missed the note about slowly advancing the speed control in high RPM range- I blew my fuse.

My mini mill has been down ever since. The fuse is some strange one I can't find anywhere.

If I get it back up, I'll run it in low range.

1) Ditch the drill chuck. Use the collets. Use the wrench and the spindle locking pin near the top of the mill to change to the collets. Should be in the directions, which you need to read. Find them online if you don't have them. Never mill with the drill chuck.

2) www.littlemachineshop.com has your fuse.

-Jeff

I've been pushing this little X2 to the max. Making parts and displaying them to the local machine shops. I don't tell them what I'm making it on at first. When I do, they don't believe me.

Cool ... Could you post some photos of your projects?

I'd be interested in spindle control on my X2 - do you have a product yet? (in the UK too)

Thanks,

Paul

Yeah Ron Steel's belt drive killed my mini mill. It wasn't the fuse. It shorted something else.

Too bad. I liked the little bastard.

It would be cool to see these projects with run times. I find it a little hard to believe anything can be cut efficiently out of steel or stainless steel; the machines aren't rigid enough. I cut one part out of steel on my X3 and at .025" a pass, in 1018, it cut one good part and the next one had worn out the cutter.

I think it's vibration that kills the tooling. The larger mills could run a lot more parts without tools wearing out, and probably cut double or maybe quadruple the depth of cut too.

yeah i never had good luck with steel/stainless on my x2, a few passes @ ~0.010" and the cutter is shot. i haven't tried carbide yet, maybe that will give better results. good thing i haven't needed to cut a lot of steel.

the thing is is that you need slow speed high feed, but the x2 just doesnt have enough hp.

yeah i never had good luck with steel/stainless on my x2, a few passes @ ~0.010" and the cutter is shot. i haven't tried carbide yet, maybe that will give better results. good thing i haven't needed to cut a lot of steel.

the thing is is that you need slow speed high feed, but the x2 just doesnt have enough hp.

The problem is rigidity isn't up to the task. If it were, the light cuts could be taken at the proper feed per tooth and the cutters would hold up, but they don't, because they are making little vibrations as the machine flexes, and those vibrations are tiny impacts that in turn accelerate wear on the edges of the cutting tool.

So aluminum works great, because the impact with buttery aluminum isn't sufficient to really cause harm to the tool.

If you cut with conservative tooling on a bridgeport, the cuts are smooth and glassy, and the tools hold up.

Not really a huge fault, as the SYIL machines weigh very little, and just can't be expected to work like a giant piece of American steel.

I've taken some aggressive cuts in aluminum with the syil X3, and it seems to like aluminum and operate in it efficiently.

I'm selling my machines and equipment at the link below if anyone's interested. I'm looking for $8000 OBO

http://ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=7&f=132&t=528943