I have been working on this off and on for a few weekends now. Not making alot of progress but I am not in a huge hurry either. I purchased Nook precission 1/2-10 acme rod for the leadscrews. I plan to try to use my Xylotex 269 oz. kit to run it. I will probably also but DumpsterCNC AB nuts and might even give his couplers a try. I have also made a few small changes to some of the drawings/parts and I am thinking of a few more. I am including a picture of the modification to the long parts for the X axis torsion box. I also squared the holes in this part. I liked the idea of having them hold drawers so I squared them to make installing /making easier. While purchasing my material I called a local plastic supplier. They sold me what I wanted by the pound if I could get it from the cut-off bin. The plastic I purchased was approx $32.00 and I think I have more than enough. This might be a good way for some people to go who want to cut their own parts but not have to buy a sheet. Here are some pictures to start with.

Dwayne

Here is why I am progressing slow. One of these pictures is a good pile. The other is a pile of mistakes. Sad isn't it? :(

Dwayne

good start so far, novel idea on the locking parts. Good buy on the HDPE you prob. have over 150.00 min in material for 32.00.

Joe

Good job, even with mistakes :)

At least you are doing something.

Cheers,
Bob

Very nice! Your parts look top notch!

Good score on the plastic, I'm going to start checking around for a supplier.
Thanks for the tip!! :)

Bob

Looks like you are well on your way. Parts look nice and ready for assembly. Enjoying the pictures.

The other is a pile of mistakes. Sad isn't it? :(
I know that feeling! :D

Thanks for the great idea about the plastic.

Keep up the good work.

Terry

Well it is starting to look familiar. I can look at the drawings and pictures from others all day long, but you acctually have to see one to realize how big this thing is. I have all of the wood parts cut for my Z axis and for my Y gantry lower torsion box. I did a modification to the torsion box. I added a 1/4 x 1/4 tongue to the end pieces and put a groove in the skin (top and bottom). I am hoping this allows a little more glue surface and a better bite on the end peices. I did this after seeing a video that suggested the machine may benefit from more strength in this area. I will also add the threaded rod throught the Gantry uprights. I have all of the inner parts of the X axis torsion box cut, will hopefully do the skins this weekend. Oh yeah...I added a few more parts to the "not so good" pile. At this rate I will be able to build a whole other router...might not cut straight..but it will be another router...LOL.

Dwayne

Why did you make the pieces interlocking on the x-axis? I was trying to think of something along those lines so I could stretch the length out to 72".

I like the idea of square holes for the drawers. Easy place to store cutters, wrenches, hold downs, etc. Excellent job. Keep it going.

txcowdog - I made the pieces interlocking because I wanted more than just a butt joint. Once the MDF soaks up some glue and swells that joint should be TIGHT fitting. I also figure that when the cross piece is installed it will help to insure better alighnment between the faces. Of course because I could was also lurking in the back of my mind...LOL. Where are you in Houston? I am on Hwy6 about 6miles north of I-10.

Ordered my bolts from bolt depot tonight. Got tired of driving back and forth to HD when building the last one. It is only about 5 miles away but can take 20-30 minutes to get there. Anyway, if anyone orders from there watch the pricing. If you need to buy 40 or more then it is cheaper to buy boxes of 100. Shipping will be more due to weight but I am always looking for bolts and never have any. I figure the extra will not go to waste. Thought for just a minute about buying all chrome, add a little bling to my router. No parts cut tonight, did my taxes instead.

Dwayne

Dwayne,

Could you use this to extend the length of the x axis? I like the idea of a jigsaw puzzle looking piece. This adds to the area of a glue joint obviously creating a stronger joint.

I'm about 1.5 miles east of Hwy 6 at I-10. I have a small Emco-Maier but would like to build one of these.

I am sure you could extend the X. We need to get together then, let you see this thing coming to life. So what is an Emco-Maier?

Dwayne

If you guys do extend the axis I would HIGHLY recommend going to a 4 or 5 TPI screw such as 1/2-10 or 1/2-8 2 start. Otherwise the vibrations and whipping from the leadscrew will surely cause you some headaches.

If you guys do extend the axis I would HIGHLY recommend going to a 4 or 5 TPI screw such as 1/2-10 or 1/2-8 2 start. Otherwise the vibrations and whipping from the leadscrew will surely cause you some headaches.

Yes I agree, 60" would be the max i would travel with a 1/2-10 one start leadscrew.

Got most of my plastic cut today. I will cut the rest tomorrow then all I have left is the Y axis stuff. One thing that I am also doing ( sort of a game) is trying to rduce my waste as much as possible. Laying out the parts so I do not waste too much and have something usable left over. I am leraning alot about how best to use my machine. Here are a couple of pictures of before the cut and after. I moved the waste piece so you can see what is left. Oh and of course I had to add to the "not good enough" pile too.

Dwayne

Got most of my plastic cut today. I will cut the rest tomorrow then all I have left is the Y axis stuff. One thing that I am also doing ( sort of a game) is trying to rduce my waste as much as possible. Laying out the parts so I do not waste too much and have something usable left over. I am leraning alot about how best to use my machine. Here are a couple of pictures of before the cut and after. I moved the waste piece so you can see what is left. Oh and of course I had to add to the "not good enough" pile too.

Dwayne

Nice placement of the hold down screws. I use tabs on mine. so i just hold down the outer edges.

But you are comming along pretty good.

you can see now how much work it is to make a kit. And Yes sometimes i have a pile of not so good parts, sometimes i get MDF and HDPE that is bowed some and affects the parts.

Joe

Yeah I have a couple of MDF pieces that have been leaning against a wall. They are bowed so I just used them to cut some small stuff. I am planning the Z axis plastic tomorrow. Is the Bearing plate for the Z plastic? I know the holder and back plate are. As for screw hold downs I am able to use the holes in the parts most of the time. Sometimes I cheat and put a hole where there is not one just to screw down the parts. I love the tabs option but I hate cleaning them up later. Some of my parts will go in with the tab left on because I am too lazy to clean it off.

Dwayne

I love the tabs option but I hate cleaning them up later.

I use a pair of sharp wire cutters and a big metal file. Cleans tabs off of MDF, HDPE, Delrin, pine, oak, and other materials in a jiffy.

Yeah I have a couple of MDF pieces that have been leaning against a wall. They are bowed so I just used them to cut some small stuff. I am planning the Z axis plastic tomorrow. Is the Bearing plate for the Z plastic? I know the holder and back plate are. As for screw hold downs I am able to use the holes in the parts most of the time. Sometimes I cheat and put a hole where there is not one just to screw down the parts. I love the tabs option but I hate cleaning them up later. Some of my parts will go in with the tab left on because I am too lazy to clean it off.

Dwayne

The Z-Axis bearing slide is HDPE, and the rear router plate that dolts to it is 3/4" MDF, and don;t forget the reccess for the bearing block u bolts in the rear plate. (see picture)

Dwayne,

Great job, those parts look really good!

In an earlier post you provided pictures of a good pile and a bad pile, could you provide info on what the mistake(s) was(were) and the correction?
As many mistakes as I make it would be a big help to have some heads up on things to look out for! :D

Thanks!

ccsparky - All mistakes, errors and just plain dumb luck have been self inflicted. The first thing I did was cut the entire X axis and the Y carriage with a machine that was out of square. So...all the parts work but they will make a machine that looks like something out of Dr. Seuss. I am not even going to talk about the stupid things I did...LOL

Joe - Is there a reason why you used MDF?

Dwayne

I like the way you hold down. How the heck do you find all the placement holes for those screws? Do you clamp down, zip in and mark them with the router then pause it, screw in there and remove clamps? Or do you jog it to find the places for screws? Good question, I was wondering the same myself Dwayne.

When I setup for my cut I pick whatever holes "feels right". I drill them first then I drill all the others. Sometimes I use hold downs and other times I just hold the part down by hand. Once the holes are drilled then I pause the job and place screws. Once all the screws are in place I remove any clamps then let the machine finish. Hope this helps, I would do a video but I am not that advanced yet....no camera.

Dwayne

other times I just hold the part down by hand

Really???!!! You, Dwayne are much braver than I. A power, g-code, or computer glitch and you might have some CNC'd fingers. And if the bit ever catches in the material you might be lucky and get away with only a few bruises.

I built an enclosure with plexiglass sliding windows for my JGRO table. I was glad I did, too. On the 7th or 8th job I was running my Z-axis plunged too deep and the end mill snapped in 3 pieces. One piece was in the collet, another went through my sacrificial board into the table about a half inch and the other pinged off of one of the plexi windows. Scared the crap out of me. I was thankful that I didn't have any of my body parts even remotely close to the router.

Take care, I've enjoyed reading your thread. Even with the setbacks you've experienced and the ever-growing scrap pile you're making good progress.

When machining, shortcuts are usually the fastest way to the Emergency Room.

When I setup for my cut I pick whatever holes "feels right". I drill them first then I drill all the others. Sometimes I use hold downs and other times I just hold the part down by hand. Once the holes are drilled then I pause the job and place screws. Once all the screws are in place I remove any clamps then let the machine finish. Hope this helps, I would do a video but I am not that advanced yet....no camera.

Dwayne

now, if joe can only work on a diy vaccum table to accompany his design with an ATC, well then I think he should get into patenting the design :rainfro:

Hay-Tay Please realize that I am NO WHERE CLOSE to the bit. My machine is also cutting and plunging around 10 - 15 IPM. When I hold down by hand I am using a large piece (24x24).

Dwayne

This past weekend I got all ( I think) plastic parts cut, driiled,taped...etc. I also cut the Y axis vertical ribs, twice. First set went to the garbage gods...again my bad. Tonight I cut some test holes for fit of Y axis rods and tomorrow I plan to cut the Gantry inner and outer supports. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel and let me say this. If you want one of these routers but cannot cut it yourself. PAY JOE, it is well worth it. I am doing it for the fun of it, ever heard the saying " I like beating my head against the wall because it feels good when I stop". Well that is me. No pictures tonight because it would look pretty much the same as the others...except for the larger garbage pile.

Also, I have been watching some of the other builds going on and planned to use my existing Xylotex 269oz motors and driver. Now I am scared, told the wife " Hey hun, let me build a router. It will help with the business" Then it was "Hey hun, I need a better one" now "Hey hun, can I have another 500.00 because I did not relaize what I was doing?" Sleepin on the couch tonight.

Dwayne

I manually hold down all the time. Just make a jig to hold in the x-y. No more dangerous than any other shop operation.... bandsaw, tablesaw or stationary router table......grinder, chop saw, drill press...did I miss any dangerous tool?

Took today and tomorrow off of work so I can play. Today I had to cut the inside right gantry support again, the first on is in the "other" pile. Pay attention to your drawings if you plan to make this. There was a time when this part was 1" longer than the others. I thought I had the latest files but apparently not. Anyway after cutting it out again I started to machine my alluminum angle. I wanted to set it up on the router and let it do it for me. I figured a way to jig it up and cut them all. I also glued together my X axis long parts, the ones with the puzzle end. They came out great, straight, flat and dead on. Not sure where I will start tomorrow...will see what I feel like when I get up.

Dwayne

Looks like you made some good progress.

wish I had a cnc to mill my angle alum.. lol I destroyed some woodworking bits to get them done.. but they came out nice! I like how you setup a jig to do it.

Looks good so far , soon you will have a CNC Model 2006.

what is the adapter you made to go from the 4" to the 2.5" dust collection. (part listing).

joe

Dang Joe...now I gotta lie because I do not rmember. Just an ordinary reducer found at Home Depot in the PVC section. I think it was for 3" to 2" or something like that. I went to the shop vac section and got an adapter part that they sell in open bins. Carried it over to the PVC isle and started looking. I will look later and see it there is a tag on it or some castin markings.

Dwayne

OK...I could not stand it any more. I decided to glue up some parts before bed tonight. Hope it was not a mistake. I wanted to glue my gantry in/out side parts together. Could not figure how to clamp it all up...so I said "screw it". Well that is what I did. I screwed them down to my router bed and made a nice glue sandwich using MDF bread. Hopefully the screws will be enough clamping pressure. Before installing the screws I used 1/4" bolts to line the 2 prts up. Seems to have worked nice. I then glued up the Y axis ribs (will cut skins tomorrow) and also glued the Z carriage (only one side, I will finish tomorrow). So I might go to bed now...unless I think of something else to do first.

Dwayne

OK Joe I went and looked. It is a 3x2 pvc adapter. I also used one of those adapters you get for connecting different size hoses. Here is one from rockler Here (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10472&SearchHandle=DADBDBDJDADADDDGDHGGDCDGGEDEGGGCCNGFDIGGGFCNDEGFDDGECNDJDDDHGFCNDDDGDJDBGEGFDBDHDADIDADGDADADADBDADADADBDFGEHFHDHECAGDGPGMGMGFGDHEGJGPGODADADADEDADADADADADADADBDFDADADADBDADADADADADADADADADADADADBDADADADBDFGEHFHDHECAGDGPGMGMGFGDHEGJGPGODADADADBDB&filter=dust%20collection) I just cut off what I did not need. The vac hose fits so well that for a long time I ran it with it just jambed together. Later I put a couple of sheetrock screws into it.

Dwayne

What rails are you using on the Y axis?

Planning on using 1 1/16" drill rod, should be very close to the pipe. I only increased the diameter of the gantry holes .020 to fit them. Problem is they are heavy. Not sure it will work. If not then I will replace with pipe.

I went ahead and glued up the other side and back supports of the Z axis, could stand it no longer...LOL

Dwayne

Planning on using 1 1/16" drill rod, should be very close to the pipe. I only increased the diameter of the gantry holes .020 to fit them. Problem is they are heavy. Not sure it will work. If not then I will replace with pipe.

I went ahead and glued up the other side and back supports of the Z axis, could stand it no longer...LOL

Dwayne

Great job Dwayne, the part's you are cutting look very good!

What lenght drill rod did you get? 60" or are you going to have to use two pieces? I could not find anything longer than 36". Can't wait to see them installed. :)

ccsparky - Thanks for the compliments. I am using drill rod on the Y axis. It is 36 inches. I did see HERE (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1718&PMT4NO=17159050&PMT4TP=*ITPD&PMITEM=06000327&PMCTLG=00) where you can get custom lengths but I did not want to spend the extra money right now. Read the fine print on the right side of the page about half way down. So I will be using pipe on the X axis. I cut my pipe from 20' sticks at work. I went to HD to buy it precut and found that every piece had a slight bend near the end. I figure it is from the threader that was used, maybe it bends it under the torque load from threading.

Dwayne

ccsparky - Thanks for the compliments. I am using drill rod on the Y axis. It is 36 inches. I did see HERE (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1718&PMT4NO=17159050&PMT4TP=*ITPD&PMITEM=06000327&PMCTLG=00) where you can get custom lengths but I did not want to spend the extra money right now. Read the fine print on the right side of the page about half way down. So I will be using pipe on the X axis. I cut my pipe from 20' sticks at work. I went to HD to buy it precut and found that every piece had a slight bend near the end. I figure it is from the threader that was used, maybe it bends it under the torque load from threading.

Dwayne

Ouch, that will add up quick!
Good tip on the 20' lenghts! I got lucky at HD they had just filled the bin so I had several to pick from. Picked through the entire pile just to come up with 4 60" pieces that looked good. All of the pipe they had was pretty straight but several had really bad teeth marks and spots were you could see that they did not have it tightend properly and the pipe slipped while they were threading it. The 36" pieces were in pretty good shape.

Can't wait to see it!

Another day and a little more progress. The way my mind works is like this. I cannot paint anything until it all goes together for fitment, then take it apart and paint. This will hopefully let me find all my problems and have a chance to correct it now. So to day I started assembly. I have most of the Z and Y axis done. I glued the lower Y torsion box tonight and will install tomorrow. I have also started the dreaded X axis glue up. Not really sure how I am going to do this, figured the end would be an OK place to start. Wait an hour or so then I will do the other end. I also will be adding to the scrap pile. I am going to recut the motor mounts and bearing mounts that go with them. I must admit though, this is alot like work. I might just have to let this thing run naked and not wear any paint. I will do better on my next one....LOL. By the way...that is my Sosylva in the background of the Y axis, this friggin thing is BIG. But what do you expect from a Texan. I will need a week off of work after this, just to clean my shop.

Dwayne

Dayne its looking great. Keep up the good work. I just finished my Solsylva and I have to say dont worry about the scrap pile. I was a bit too eager and didn't make much scrap, just banged everything together! :o Wish I had taken more care now and Im going to have to re-build the entire machine sometime to make it look better. (Although it does work great! ;) ) Anyway, a scrap pile is good....something for me to remember!

I must admit though, this is alot like work. I might just have to let this thing run naked and not wear any paint. I will do better on my next one....LOL. By the way...that is my Sosylva in the background of the Y axis, this friggin thing is BIG. But what do you expect from a Texan.
Dwayne

Yea some people do not relise how much work to cut out the router. but it is worth it.

Yea, I did not want a small average machine, Everything is bigger in Texas... lol

But I do have to admit when its together it does look impressive, Well atleast to my friends :)

On your X-Axis, don't forget to stager the (your puzzle joints) joints, on opposite ends of machine. Also use the pipe rails when gluing it together it will help keep it straight.

Looking good so far.

Joe

I manually hold down all the time. Just make a jig to hold in the x-y. No more dangerous than any other shop operation.... bandsaw, tablesaw or stationary router table......grinder, chop saw, drill press...did I miss any dangerous tool?

A stationary router table can't quickly move the bit into your hands.
And you left out jointer and radial arm saw.

wish I had a cnc to mill my angle alum.. lol I destroyed some woodworking bits to get them done.. but they came out nice! I like how you setup a jig to do it.

If you have a router table, it's very easy to route the notches in the aluminum angle. On your table saw, with the blade at 45°, cut a V shaped notch about 1/2" deep. Flip it over, set your angle in it, and run it over a straight router bit. Make about 3 passes and go slow, because the bit will want to grab a little. Makes very nice clean notches in a few minutes.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=120964&postcount=70

I have both, and I could have done that but wasn't sure of the tooling to use. I know aluminum is soft but with a carbide blade you can cut aluminum without dulling it too bad?

just use a standard straight 2 flute carbide tipped router bit.

On my Sosylva I used my router table and a 45 degree bit. I just cut the entire length a littl at a tim. I think I did something like 3 passes. That way I did not have to worry about a notch.

A stationary router table can't quickly move the bit into your hands.
And you left out jointer and radial arm saw.

My cnc can't move that quickly either, or I wouldn't have my fingers near it. I cut my finger with a utility knife yesterday....left that off the list also.

In my years of fabricating wood and metal professionally, I have many first hand stories of people that maimed and even killed themselves with machines. I guess I've been lucky. The only permanent loss of a digit was 32 years ago in welding school and it was only partly my fault. My left thumb is now a little shorter than the other because the bench grinder rest was not adjusted correctly. The welding lab instructor should have taken care of that to protect us stupid kids from ourselves.

One thing I've learned is that to save your fingers you need to stay on your toes. I can pull my hands out of any cutting operation in the blink of an eye.

Didn't really mean this to be long winded, but it brings me to a safety point I don't think many people that come here and build machines know: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES IN THE SHOP! The pros know this, but many people that come here and want to build a machine, or even just casual woodworkers, don't realize how important this is. That video of the little girl staring at eye level at the router cutter was just flat scary to me.

Sorry to hear about your finger, your teacher should have been more careful. I was brought into woodworking in woodshop with absolute safety at all times. If my teacher back in the day saw you using a machine without safety glasses he would hit the estop to kill power in the entire shop so everyone got pissed at you. It was engraved in me to use guards and pay attention at all times. I trust tools to do nothing more than perform a task but I do not trust them to mind my personal safety. Free handing on a router table is different than holding down material on a machine with a mind of its own. Sure it's highly unlikely that you will hurt yourself, but it happens, so why take the risk? I do a lot of dangerous stuff and work with dangerous machines every day. But I prepare myself every time so that if I slip or I fall I'm never going to have my fingers in the path of the bit, knives or blade. When my CNC is done I will probably wear glasses when cutting at all times. Just be careful guys, no piece of material or job is ever worth hurting yourself. :cheers:

My cnc can't move that quickly either, or I wouldn't have my fingers near it. I cut my finger with a utility knife yesterday....left that off the list also.

In my years of fabricating wood and metal professionally, I have many first hand stories of people that maimed and even killed themselves with machines. I guess I've been lucky. The only permanent loss of a digit was 32 years ago in welding school and it was only partly my fault. My left thumb is now a little shorter than the other because the bench grinder rest was not adjusted correctly. The welding lab instructor should have taken care of that to protect us stupid kids from ourselves.

One thing I've learned is that to save your fingers you need to stay on your toes. I can pull my hands out of any cutting operation in the blink of an eye.

Didn't really mean this to be long winded, but it brings me to a safety point I don't think many people that come here and build machines know: WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES IN THE SHOP! The pros know this, but many people that come here and want to build a machine, or even just casual woodworkers, don't realize how important this is. That video of the little girl staring at eye level at the router cutter was just flat scary to me.

Well I thnk I now have a Joe's wannabe in my shop. I finished the assembly as far as I wanted to go then tore it down. I did notice that I am going to have some issues with bearing contact on the x axis rails. It is apparently something I cut, the good news is that it seems to be a problem the full length of the axis. Hopefully this will make it easier to fix. I also want to point out that I HATE to paint. Did I say HATE...well that is what I meant. So I went for my special " half arse" look. I am proud to say that I accomplished it. I have to pick up some extra bolts that I want to use then I will start to put it back together. I think I need to clean the shop first, it is becoming a problem just moving around in there. I think I also need to decide where it will live its life out, this is not something I want to be moving around to get it out of the way. I have a spot in mind but will think on it for a few days. I still have to order my lovejoys and decide what to do about motors.

Dwayne

Looking good Dwayne.

Is there a reason you are putting your y axis motor on the opposite side?

Free handing on a router table is different than holding down material on a machine with a mind of its own. Sure it's highly unlikely that you will hurt yourself, but it happens, so why take the risk?

If I hold a piece down in a jig that constrains x and y in a cnc it is extremely safe. The spoil board constrains the z- and the only force left for me to constrain with my fingers is z+. Since I only use straight flute or down spiral bits, the z+ forces are minimal. Don't take this as just some handwaving :wave: threoretical explanation. I have cut many hundreds of parts this way since I got my machine running and it works well. I will switch to dedicated vacuum jigs as I can.

I do a lot of dangerous stuff and work with dangerous machines every day.

I work with dangerous machines everyday, but try to never do dangerous stuff.

But I prepare myself every time so that if I slip or I fall I'm never going to have my fingers in the path of the bit, knives or blade. When my CNC is done I will probably wear glasses when cutting at all times.

You should make it a habit to wear eye protection from the time you enter the shop until the time you leave. You will consider cutting your finger trivial compared to blowing an eye out.

Totally agree with you. :cool:

If I hold a piece down in a jig that constrains x and y in a cnc it is extremely safe. The spoil board constrains the z- and the only force left for me to constrain with my fingers is z+. Since I only use straight flute or down spiral bits, the z+ forces are minimal. Don't take this as just some handwaving :wave: threoretical explanation. I have cut many hundreds of parts this way since I got my machine running and it works well. I will switch to dedicated vacuum jigs as I can.



I work with dangerous machines everyday, but try to never do dangerous stuff.



You should make it a habit to wear eye protection from the time you enter the shop until the time you leave. You will consider cutting your finger trivial compared to blowing an eye out.

Looking good Dwayne.

Is there a reason you are putting your y axis motor on the opposite side?


Well..er...uh...I dunno. That is where it is at on my current router. I never noticed that it was on the other side on Joe's machine. Now I feel kinda stupid. But hey..I can change it, or leave it I guess. Nothing permanent yet.

Dwayne

shouldn't matter.

No shouldn't matter, just put them on the side that is going to be the most convenient for cabling.

Well..er...uh...I dunno. That is where it is at on my current router. I never noticed that it was on the other side on Joe's machine. Now I feel kinda stupid. But hey..I can change it, or leave it I guess. Nothing permanent yet.

Dwayne

The only thing that you may have to do is just reverse the Motor in Mach3 settings, because depending which side the motor is on it will run in reverse from other side.

Joe