X2 cnc finished for now maybe [Archive] - Page 2 - CNCzone.com-The Ultimate Machinist Community

Smitty911

07-15-2007, 11:47 AM

After I changed to the LMS belt drive my mill had a clicking sound as well. HHmmmm

With it all apart right now, I guess I'll track down that noise.

Hoss,

What's next? LOL

Nice work, on the sign. Have you tried metal yet? The video looked like it ran fine.

Smitty

hoss2006

07-15-2007, 12:20 PM

smitty,
only drilled some 3/8 holes in the steel tooling plate.
the belt broke before I could try any milling. I'll have to wait till next week.
Figured I would have had more time to get around to ordering some spares, oh well.
After I make sure the mill still works as well as before the changes, I'm gonna work on the flood coolant enclosure.
Putting together a shopping list for Home Depot. It's an 70 mile trip but i have a gift card to use up.:)
Hoss

Smitty911

07-16-2007, 11:50 AM

Hoss,

I had my lower section of an enclosure made from the Counter-top stuff "Corian". This stuff looks good, cheap, buy the scrapes from a local shop, it's hard, smooth and easy to clean. I won't be running a flood system but it should be able to be modified if I change my mind.

Ok, mine is two different colors but who cares.

Smitty

hoss2006

07-17-2007, 04:58 PM

Hoss,

What's next? LOL

Smitty

I bought this EDM (http://www.lindsaybks.com/bks9/edm/index.html)book a while back. So sooner or later I want to get around to building one.
Looks pretty cool.
Hoss

dfurlano

07-18-2007, 09:56 AM

There is an EDM Builders yahoo group that is somewhat active.

The group name is EDMHomeBuilders

hoss2006

07-22-2007, 02:39 PM

Got my belts and I'm back up and running, kinda.
Made another engraving, Da Vinci's Vitruvian 10x10 inches.
The X and Y work fine, The Z needs a little work.
The weight of the head cantilevered farther out is causing the dovetail to bind.
I've started work on a new counter balance to compensate.
Logic says it should work but we'll see.
Hoss

Rodm1954

07-22-2007, 08:42 PM

Hi Hoss,
I kept this link as I thought it was a great idea.

http://www.xylotex.com/Counterlever.htm

It might help you overcome your binding - the roller bearing part.

hoss2006

07-23-2007, 12:01 PM

interesting rod, thanks.
I'm gonna noodle on that one.
hoss

hoss2006

07-27-2007, 04:39 PM

I made a set of counterlevers similar to the ones described in the link from Rod.
It helped a smidge but still no go.
It did help me discover the main problem with the extended head.
The extra leverage it provides makes the column flex bigtime.
I could bottom the spindle on a scrap of aluminum and see the column flex backwards.
I'll work on adding extra support for the column this weekend, then see if the counterlevers work any better.
If not, I'll finish the other idea I had for a new counterbalance.
This articulating extension (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_6.html#extended%20y)will work one way or another by gosh.
Hoss

project5k

07-30-2007, 01:32 PM

just a thought....
why not add a ballenced weight to the head, on a stiff arm to the back of the column.. yes i understand that this would add weight to the moving z, but it would counter act the rotational forces being applied to the column, then you could just add to your total counterballence, ie stronger gas shock, or more weight if your using an elevator weight config...
if you look at the attached pic, the black is the column, the yellow is the "arm" holding the head, and the red is the head itself... if you add a plate or bracket to the existing arm (green) and then add weight to the light blue, you will counter act the rotation that the head is causing...

just my first idea...

hoss2006

07-30-2007, 01:59 PM

you read my mind proj.
in the pic i posted earlier, i was just going to physically mount the counterweight
to the brackets i have attached to the head.
i still need to add some strength to the column because it would still flex
when the cutter/drill bit/etc encountered some resistance.
i got it underway but still have to finish.
been adding google ads to my website to try and generate a little cash.
same ones they use here on the zone.
later hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

george12

07-30-2007, 03:13 PM

Hello i love your cnc conversion, i am working on converting my own mini mill to cnc, but Ii have run into a small problem I cannot make the z-axis ball screw mount because i cannot make a hole that large. I was wondering how much it would cost to purchase one from you, or if you have any suggestions on other places that could fabricate it.
Thank you
George Erickson

hoss2006

07-30-2007, 05:41 PM

Hey George,
To be honest, the hole for the large bearing in the z axis ballscrew base mount
doesn't have to be round. It only needs to keep the bearing in place.
Here are a couple options for the base mount that don't need the 2.338 hole bored out. Just lay them out as drawn and mill them. It still needs the 1.255 hole to be round for the small thrust bearing. Use a small boring head like this one at Wholesale Tool (http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/37504/nm/Precision_Boring_Head). Or even a small fly cutter (http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/37942/nm/Individual_Fly_Tool_Cutter) in a pinch.
These prints also show the changes I made to allow mounting brackets that bolt onto the sides of the column for added support. The prints are in post #299.
I could still make any part you may want, just PM me here and I'll give you a quote.
Hoss
Another solution would be to use a rotary table (http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/20849/nm/Rotary_Tables) to mill the bores.

george12

07-31-2007, 09:48 AM

Thanks for the excellent reply.
I think it would look better if i could purchase one from you plus my mill is all torn down at the moment.

How do I go about purchasing one?

"I could still make any part you may want, just PM me here and I'll give you a quote."

Just out of curiosity what does PM stand for.

Thank you
George Erickson

alexccmeister

07-31-2007, 11:10 AM

PM = Private Message

tpworks

07-31-2007, 11:20 PM

Hoss,
Check this out, might be an idea!

http://cnczone.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=28891&d=1168169819
http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29650

Tom

hoss2006

08-01-2007, 01:15 PM

Hey Tom,
I thought that first pic looked like Rodmans.
I just don't have that much steel plate.
I do have some 3 in. U-channel.
I moved the electronics last weekend ( had to work Sat so I didn't have much free time cause Sunday is Raceday!
Should get er done this weekend.
Have a customer part to work on too though.
Not enough days in the week.
Later Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

hoss2006

08-01-2007, 04:29 PM

Also,
I still have alot of work to do yet on my flood coolant enclosure,
but basically it's a 1x4 and plywood base and walls with plexiglass doors.
I'm coating the entire inside with Herculiner liquid truck bed liner (http://www.herculiner.com/other_uses.html).
It's of course waterproof, but chemical and oil resistant too. It comes in several colors but my local Autozone only carries black. They have quarts for $29.99 and 1 gallon kits for $99.
Seemed like a pretty easy solution. Mulled over using plastic sheeting, aluminum sheet and even Drylok basement waterproofing paint to keep the coolant inside.
Also looked at shower stall bases but they were too expensive for the size I need.
Settled on herculiner. It will work, I think.
I'll post pics when she's ready.
later Hoss

hoss2006

08-05-2007, 02:24 PM

Installed the column support and new counter balance today.
Definitely helped.
The column only flexes a couple thou now when I jam the spindle
down onto some scrap.
The counter balance helps a bit. I was able to increase the IPM by 10
from what it had to run at before. Still would like to get it in the 40IPM range
if I could. Though I suppose it's not all that important.
Still I think I'll change the jumpers on the Xylotex board to run the Z axis
at full step instead of 1/8 microstepping. That way i'll know the stepper is giving all it's got.
I imagine a pair of air springs would be a plus too.
The odyssey continues....
http://www.hossmachine.com

hoss2006

08-09-2007, 11:02 AM

Found a video I made showing how the Control Panel operates.
Made it during the Y Axis expansion construction.
Check it out here (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_2.html#control%20panel) on my site.
Help a guy out and click a couple sponsor ads while you're there. It's easy.
Thanks Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

hoss2006

08-12-2007, 05:18 PM

Changed the Xylotex board to 1/2 step mode for the X and Y Axis and
full step mode for the Z Axis.
Increased the rapid speeds for all three.
X Axis was 30 IPM, now 65 IPM.
Y Axis was 18 IPM, now 32 IPM.
Z Axis was 15 IPM, now 22 IPM.
Think an airspring or 2 would definitely help the Z motor raise all that weight.
I'll see if NAPA has any for hatchbacks cheaper than LMS.
Also have a video (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_6.html#extended%20y) showing the new speeds.
Later, Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

Rodm1954

08-13-2007, 11:28 AM

Hi Hoss
I tried the link and could not see the video but I am lazy and didn't look too hard. :)
Did you notice any difference in how smooooth the Z axis runs on full step - is it notchy now?
Keep them coming this has been a valuable resource for me.

hoss2006

08-13-2007, 01:06 PM

Hey Rod,
The video is down at the bottom of the page.
Was going to mention that.oops.
The Z seems just as smooth as before.
It's a 2:1 pulley ratio so 1 step only moves it .0005 inch.
Don't think my eyes could notice it sputtering through that small a movement even if it did.
Had to change the computer screen over to large fonts, sucks to get old.
Later Hoss

hoss2006

08-13-2007, 05:38 PM

Performed a bench test on the X2 Freak.
Incremental Feedrate Test.
.025 inch per pass
Starting at 5 IPM and increasing by 5 IPM per pass.
.750 Endmill @ 1200 RPM
Nearly made it through 45 IPM.
Have the video here (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_6.html#extended%20y). Scroll to the bottom of the page.
I'll post the program I wrote below if anyone wants to give it a shot.
Now I'll have a benchmark to test improvements against.
A larger more massive tooling plate, Higher RPM, Flood coolant.
The .050 inch per pass test only made it to 20 IPM.
Even so, I could live with .025 at 40 IPM and have 7 times the work area of the stock X2.
Just need make a couple extra passes to get to depth.
Good enough for who it's for.
Later Hoss

Rodm1954

08-14-2007, 08:45 AM

Thanks Hoss,
Found the videos. The Z does not seem to be affected at all by the full step. Enjoyed the benchmark tests as well.

ataxy

08-14-2007, 02:41 PM

what kind of endmill where you using rough or finish, 2,3,4,etc flutes

hoss2006

08-14-2007, 03:11 PM

what kind of endmill where you using rough or finish, 2,3,4,etc flutes

It was a 4 flute HSS finish endmill.
Think I may try it again but at 2500 RPM.
Bet it will do 50 IPM.
Finish isn't pretty but that's what the "finish" pass would be for.
Could handle deeper passes if I bolted the stock directly onto the tooling plate.
the vise gets a little wiggly and makes it chatter over 40 IPM.
When I get the bigger tooling plate, think I'll move up to a 6 in. vise too.
Going to make a couple more tests.
A square block and circle pocket to get the y axis in on the action.
Fun,Fun,Fun.
Hoss

S_J_H

08-14-2007, 08:32 PM

Hoss,
what is the width of cut on those tests?
hey if you really want to test it out, run the roadrunner code in mach 3. I find that code is a good test.

Steve

hoss2006

08-15-2007, 01:20 PM

it's a .750 wide cut.
i'll give that roadrunner a whirl too,
thanks hoss

hoss2006

08-18-2007, 10:01 PM

Started working on a PDF version of my website.
It will include High resolution versions of the pics, prints and videos.
Also some pics, prints and videos not posted.
Will have to make it available on cdrom since the file sizes will be very large.
keep you posted, Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

hoss2006

08-19-2007, 02:03 PM

Made a couple circle pocket feedrate test videos.
The first is .050 per pass increasing 10 IPM per pass.
Made it to 60 IPM.(fast as it will go)
The second is .075 per pass increasing 5 IPM per pass.
Made it to 30 IPM before it broke through the other side.
Both used a .500 inch HSS endmill at 2000 RPM, Climb Milling.
Will try some more with thicker stock to test .100 and .125 per pass later.
The extended Articulating Head (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_6.html#extended%20y) is performing quite well so far.
No problems so far.
Think it will be a GO.
Check out the videos here (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_6.html#extended%20y).
Scroll to the bottom.
http://www.hossmachine.com
heres the programs if you want to try them.

digits

08-19-2007, 04:19 PM

Looking good hoss - one thing that struck me is that you are running at varying feed rates, but with fixed rpms - have you tried any of those speed/feed calculator tools to see what the sweet spot is in theory for your motor power and max rpm?

Still, I am impressed with how rigid your snake-head attachment is - great work!

willo

08-24-2007, 01:25 AM

Holy cow Hoss, I've been away for a bit. Your latest mods are truly impressive! I'm surprised you didn't rotate the head along the X instead of the Y.

George: I built mine based on Hoss's work. I converted my X and Y, then used the CNC control to cut the Z stuff. I just ran the Z axis by hand and kept the cuts simple. That said I ended up adding a pair of bearing holders to either side of the bearing to lock things down.

http://biobug.org/machine-shop/mill/modified-z-axis.jpg

hoss2006

08-24-2007, 10:38 AM

Hey Will,
long time.
I made a Z axis ballscrew base mount for George but he reneged on the deal.
If anyone is in need of one, send me a private message and i'll make you a deal.
Later Hoss
P.S. more videos later this weekend.
http://www.hossmachine.com

hoss2006

08-25-2007, 07:08 PM

The Hossmachine Store is open.
Only have 1 item right now now but that will change.
Lots more work to do.
Visit here.
http://www.hossmachine.com/store.html
Thanks Hoss

hoss2006

08-26-2007, 04:40 PM

Have a few more feedrate test videos posted now.
Check them out here (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_6.html#extended%20y).
Scroll to the bottom.
I used Bob Adams new program called Pockets (coming soon)
Check his site (http://members.tripod.com/STcnc/index.html)for availability.
Works great for making pockets of course.
I modified the circle pocket program to allow ramping into the part
and to increase the feedrate each pass for the tests.
Code is below.
Used a .500 HSS endmill @ 2000 RPM.
Made it to .100 inch per pass @50 IPM.
and .125 inch per pass @30 IPM.
Good enough for me. That will do it for these roughing tests till I get the Flood Coolant up and running.
If anyone with a stock X2 or any other kind of mill tries these programs,
post your results so we could see how the Freak compares. Give me something to shoot for.
Thanks Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

hoss2006

08-27-2007, 01:18 PM

FYI
Ol george came through on the Z axis ballscrew base mount so it's no longer
up for grabs.
Hoss

skmetal7

08-27-2007, 02:47 PM

hoss2006

08-27-2007, 03:43 PM

cover your ballscrews!!! aluminum chips is the last thing you want in your screws.

one of these days.

donald_ortega

08-30-2007, 01:52 AM

Donald A. Ortega
RR of e.g. Sec, NYSE
Investment manager

I have looked at this harbor freight mill, which looks like a very fine product, for small parts.

It is probably built for larger milling projects than the one I am currently doing.

I have a mill that is only 15" wide 18"
inches tall, and has a 5" table.

My question is simple, approximately how much was the total cost, if I may be so bold as to ask that question?

This mill project looks very professional and the pictures are top quality, thank you for this opportunity to look at your mill project, to me on a score of 1 to 10 it looks like a 10 to me!

Sincerely

donald_ortega@yahoo.com

hoss2006

08-30-2007, 05:14 PM

This is approximately what I've spent.

Harbor Freight Minimill 500
Materials and stock for cnc conversion 200
Ballscrews and nuts 150
Steppers and xylotex controller w/power supply 400
belt conversion 25
software 300
cables and control panel 150
x and y axis expansions with articulating head 350
basic tooling and accessories 500
computer 400

total 2975

I'm sure I've spent another 1000 on the other attachments and special tooling
i.e. magnetic chuck, DRO, lathe attachment, engraver, etc.

Ehh, not too bad for a mill with an 18x12x10 work envelope.
Less than half the price of an Industrial Hobbies (http://industrialhobbies.com/) Turnkey but that is still one sweet big mill. maybe someday:)
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

hoss2006

09-01-2007, 06:07 PM

Well I made a couple more videos anyhow.
Show the Articulating Head at 90 Degrees simulating working on a part too tall for the Z axis to handle.
Made a simple row hole pattern for allen bolt storage
and an X2 Freak engraving 10 inches wide on the Y axis.
In case you are wondering how I made the code, I made a regular engraving program with DeskEngrave. (http://deskam.com/deskengrave.html)
Then I edited it in Notepad.
1st, I replaced all X's with XX's, then replaced all Y's with X's, then replaced all XX's with Y's.
This made the engraving vertical and mirrored.
Then I replaced all X's with XX's, then replaced all Z's with X's, then replaced all XX's with Z's.
This flips the engraving up 90 degrees.
I have a couple pics to show this in a simulator.
There's probably a program to do this easier (or Not) but DeskEngrave and Notepad are FREE.
The videos are here (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_6.html#extended%20y), scroll to the bottom of the page.
Hoss

hoss2006

09-01-2007, 07:41 PM

Figured out a little shortcut to change the horizontal code to vertical at 90 degrees.
1 less step.
Replaced the X with A
Replaced the Y with B
Replaced the Z with X
Replaced the A with Y
Replaced the B with Z
That will work if I need to do it again.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

S_J_H

09-01-2007, 08:07 PM

Nice, very nice!

Steve

ataxy

09-01-2007, 10:05 PM

As always, Wow hoss this little machine is truly great
on a side note was funny to put a face on the voice finaly

george12

09-02-2007, 10:40 AM

I'm really sorry about how long it took me to pay you. Everything that could go wrong went wrong when i tried to pay you. Thank you for your patience:rainfro:

hoss2006

09-02-2007, 05:16 PM

no problem.
Once the bank clears it, i'll pop it in the mail with the Video DVD (http://www.hossmachine.com/store.html) as a bonus.
Thanks Hoss

Oldmanandhistoy

09-02-2007, 08:40 PM

Hi Hoss,

I can’t see from the picture but is that spindle rotation CNC controlled or are you manually turning it and locking it off?

Very nice thread you have going here I think I will pass by now and again and see if I can pinch any good ideas for my machine.:D

John

hoss2006

09-02-2007, 09:44 PM

hey John,
the spindle is still manually controlled(for now), I just moved the power switch to my control panel (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_2.html#control%20panel).

Mr.Chips

09-05-2007, 08:50 PM

Hoss,

I was so pleased to see someone do some real life test cutting. You see all the figures posted in the forums but to see the actual cutting at real intervals is what it is all about. Thanks.

Would like to see something like this comparing the different Stepper drivers. The results would fill in a lot of guesstimation.

I especially like all the links to the different items that you discuss, you have made your site so user friendly.

Hager

hoss2006

09-06-2007, 06:49 PM

hoss2006

09-08-2007, 07:49 PM

Played around with some surface grinding today,
Since I still had the freak head at 90 degrees.
Not happy with the finish afterwards but expected that.
Could not find my diamond point dresser to true up the wheel beforehand.
Think I need to get organizized:)
I'll try again when I find it.
Have a movie in the new Videos section (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos5.html#videos29&30).
Gonna try a few more things with the grinder while it's set up.
More to come.
Later Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

ataxy

09-09-2007, 08:12 AM

hoss2006

09-09-2007, 11:00 AM

Here ya go, some closeups.
Won't try anymore till I get the buildup off the wheel with a dresser.
If I found a wheel looking like that I would swear some idiot was grinding aluminum with it ( we all know how dangerous that is, right? )
Think I'll write a new program to move less(.025-.050) on the X each pass,
but with a faster feedrate. I crank the surface grinder at work pretty fast by hand in comparison.
Note 2: yeah the angle grinder is shelved now, no need. I reused the wheel cover from it.
Maybe I'll noodle on another use for it.
Later Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

Sparky_NY

09-10-2007, 11:50 AM

Fantastic work Hoss !

I have followed and read your work with great interest. Now I am going to start on a Hybrid version. I have a Bridgeport variable speed mill but always drooled over cnc for those complex curves. Everytime I get the rotary table out and spend hours coming up with a setup I think of cnc.

Now for the plan... I am going to buy just the X2 base/ table assembly. I found them brand new for under $100. The plan is to do the various mods to make it cnc and increase the travels as much as possible without adding on to the y axis or changing the table. Most of the parts I do fit in your hand anyways.

I would then have cnc capability just by removing the vise from the bridgeport and bolting up the xy table in its place. For now, I am not going to cnc the Z, one step at a time. This way I get to reuse all my bridgeport tooling, the stiffer head, and still can move the 42" table if I really need to reach further than the X2 table can handle.

Thanks much for the inspiration !!

hoss2006

09-10-2007, 03:52 PM

Now thats a cool accessory idea. I like accessories.
Be a lot cheaper than trying to cnc the bridgeport itself.
Good workaround.
Hoss

Sparky_NY

09-10-2007, 04:04 PM

Now thats a cool accessory idea. I like accessories.
Be a lot cheaper than trying to cnc the bridgeport itself.
Good workaround.
Hoss

You have cost a lot of people a lot of money it seems. I have the bug officially now also.

Here is the table I ordered, its on the way

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:11&Item=220147224432

I think I am going to resist the temptation for cheaper driver boards and order the same 4 axis as you used.

Looking at steppers now but a little unclear on what size is needed, still reading.

Picked up a 24V 5A switching supply today for $25 at the surplus house locally along with a PC to use for the case.

I'm out of control. :)

ataxy

09-11-2007, 05:01 AM

from what i have gathered so far the best bet is to go with motor that are in the 400+oz and psu that is at least ~48v and well as always you best bet if you are ready to pitch in the money for it would be to go with servo but it will come to a certain cost

hoss2006

09-11-2007, 01:56 PM

I have yet to see anyone use servos for the mini and micromills.
Steppers are the way to go.
A 350oz/in servo costs 3-4 times as much as a comparable stepper.
The stepper will give it's max torque at low rpm when you need it for making cuts. It loses torque at high rpm but you don't need it to rapid around.
That 350oz/in servo is the max torque, you only get 50oz/in continuously.
Doesn't sound like enough to make a descent cut.
It will give very fast rapids but who cares if it takes 4 seconds to rapid across the table compared to 10 for a stepper.
We all only have inches of travel not feet.
Homeshopcnc (http://www.homeshopcnc.com/page4.html) carries the motor i've described.
if you don't force your stepper to give you feedrates it can't handle, you won't have to worry about the dreaded lost steps that a servo won't have.
If i was going to spend over $2000 for a big mill (Industrial Hobbies (http://industrialhobbies.com/))
then a servo system would be beneficial but not for these little guys.
I don't see the need. IMHO.
Hoss

FPV_GTp

09-11-2007, 04:10 PM

Thanks Mr. chips,
I'm working on making my site even better.
Just added a videos section (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos_1.html) to show off all the Youtube videos.
Gets them all (29 so far) in one place with indexing.
I'll be working on some surface grinding this weekend with the Articulating Head.
Video to come too.
Later Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

Hi

Hoss2006 , once again I have to say beautifully finished machine. Hoss you have take the X2 mill to the next level .

I'm sure there are many hobbyist machinists drooling over the cnc project cause I'm one who would admit im drooling big time.

Great website you have also keep up the fantastic work Hoss.

cheers

hoss2006

09-11-2007, 04:26 PM

Thanks FPV,
I found my wheel dresser so I'll be trying the surface grinder again this weekend.
Wrote a couple new programs for it, one for the same part on the Y axis
and another using the X axis.
Be trying it on a hardened piece of steel too, shouldn't burn as much as the soft stuff.
I get up for work at 1 A.M. everyday so i don't stay up very late at night to play around with things during the week. Mostly just time to mess around on the computer and update here and the website.

MIKE JEFFERS

09-12-2007, 04:32 AM

you get up for work at 1 am...:eek:

are you a burgular :)

ataxy

09-12-2007, 05:51 AM

I get up for work at 1 A.M. everyday so i don't stay up very late at night to play around with things during the week. Mostly just time to mess around on the computer and update here and the website.

oh the joy of night shift

hoss2006

09-13-2007, 02:50 PM

Put in half a day today, home at 7AM, almost like a day off.
Dressed the grinding wheel and made a couple new passes on the Y axis.
Looks alot better now.
Made a new program that moves only .050 per pass .0005 deep at 30IPM.
Have a new video (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos6.html#videos31&32) up too that shows the wheel dressing and better finish.
Will post the X axis video this weekend.
Later Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com

ataxy

09-13-2007, 04:08 PM

oh oh what a difference you could probably get rid of those surface mark with the use of grinding fluid, also i guess you are running the mill at max speed, whats the max you can go again?

hoss2006

09-13-2007, 04:20 PM

Yeah, I'll have to add this test to the others when I get flood coolant up and running.
Compare it to this finish.
I ran this at 30IPM, I could go 40IPM on the Y and 60IPM on the X.
The spindle maxes out at 2800 RPM but the wheel is rated for 3850 so it's not going as fast as it should.
Maybe I should make a new pair of pulleys, hmmmm.:idea:
Hoss

:idea: If I just flip the little pulley over, I should get 3650 RPM max.

george12

09-13-2007, 07:53 PM

I just received the z axis ball screw mount. Beautiful work, very high quality piece.

Also the dvd is awesome too, it really helps for people like me with slow internet connections.

Thanks - your work is truly an inspiration for me

George Erickson

Jay C

09-13-2007, 09:14 PM

dvbrownell

09-14-2007, 01:07 AM

I deleted this till I have somthing inteligent to say.

hoss2006

09-14-2007, 06:32 PM

AHA!
Don't trust everything you read.
I based the max RPM for the belt conversion (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_6.html#belt%20conversion)on the plans given to me
that I patterned mine on.
They had 2750 max on High.
I decided to check what I am actually getting with my Digital Tachometer.(Search Ebay (http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=digital+tachometer&category0=))
Low maxes at 2025 RPM and High maxes at 4250 RPM.
That's just the right speed for the grinding wheel I'm using.
The motor on my X2 is rated for 6000 RPM, maybe theirs was lower.
No need now to make a larger pulley for the motor.
I'll have a short video here (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos6.html#videos33&34) soon.
Hoss

ataxy

09-14-2007, 08:43 PM

hoss2006

09-15-2007, 09:07 AM

Hey Ataxy,
the second way.
I ground in both directions.
Code is attached.
Copy and paste sure makes code writing easier.
Hoss

ataxy

09-15-2007, 10:12 AM

oh if you feel like it you could try going back and forth before moving in x this might also help with finish, i havent done alot of grinding since i am a machinist but i remember that when i was showed how to do manual surface grinding, in school, whe where told to go back and forth then do our displacement since the first past often leave those heat mark the second one just skids over and erase them effectivly just doing a free cut

hoss2006

09-15-2007, 10:42 AM

I just mimicked the automatic surface grinder from work as to the toolpath so to speak.
It moved the Y after each stroke too.
It did use coolant though.
I use the same technique on the manual surface grinder too but it does leave a nicer finish than this has so far.
I could give the back and forth approach a try on the X axis that I have it set up for right now.
I'll use a hardened piece of steel too. I have a big parallel that needs cleaned up.
Hoss

hoss2006

09-16-2007, 04:36 PM

OK this is it for the Grinding tests for now.
Ground a parallel on the X Axis taking .100 per path but not advancing on the return path.
Looks a little better than before but still not as well as at work.
It is flat and feels smooth but does look like it has ripples in the surface.
Try another day when I have coolant to compare to see if it will look prettier.
The videos here (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos6.html#videos33&34).
On to another project. :wee:
A Big one.
Later Hoss

http://www.hossmachine.com

ataxy

09-16-2007, 11:33 PM

hoss2006

09-17-2007, 11:32 AM

you got it.

(SURFACE GRINDING ON THE x AXIS 7.0 X 1.5 X Z-.0005)
G0 X0 Y0
G01 Z-.0005 F5
G01 X-7.0 F30
X0
Y-.100
X-7.0
X0
Y-.200
X-7.0
X0
Y-.300
X-7.0
X0
Y-.400
X-7.0
X0
Y-.500
X-7.0
X0
Y-.600
X-7.0
X0
Y-.700
X-7.0
X0
Y-.800
X-7.0
X0
Y-.900
X-7.0
X0
Y-1.000
X-7.0
X0
Y-1.100
X-7.0
X0
Y-1.200
X-7.0
X0
Y-1.300
X-7.0
X0
Y-1.400
X-7.0
X0
Y-1.500
X-7.0
X0
Y-1.600
X-7.0
X0
G0 Y0
M30

it will make a course over the entire surface then go back to home and rewind the program.
If i want another pass, I reset the Z to Zero and hit start again.
Rinse and repeat. :)
Hoss

hoss2006

09-24-2007, 02:52 PM

The X2 Freak DVD-ROM is now available here (http://www.hossmachine.com/store.html).
It includes:
Over 400 High Resolution Pictures
Over 26 High Quality Videos
Over 50 CAD Drawings
and a PDF of the X2 Freak Webpage
Plus BONUS! Also includes the Hossmachine Video DVD

In Addition to the X2 Freak Conversion Prints, you'll get CAD Drawings for:

CNC Conversion
Engraving Attachment
Belt conversion
Spindle Lock
Lathe/4th Axis
Tooling Plate
Precision Vise Clamps
Stepper Crank Handles

Thanks Hoss

hoss2006

10-02-2007, 04:38 PM

Looking for a Cool Control panel for your CNC?
I found these from MachMotion.com (http://www.machmotion.com/index.php)
I really like the Rotary pulse generator.
Think I found another project!
Maybe have to work on Control panel project 2 this winter.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.com
Have 2 projects going now, The ATC (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43651) and another one.

ataxy

10-02-2007, 04:44 PM

jhowelb

11-08-2007, 05:30 PM

WOW!
Speaking of the whole thread!
Just WOW!

hoss2006

11-24-2007, 10:37 PM

Haven't posted on this thread in a while, been busy with the ATC Project (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43651).
Finished my tapping attachment tonight and gave it a test.
I added my little 269 oz/in stepper to drive the spindle with 4:1 timing pulleys.
More tests will see if it will need upgraded.
I was able to tap 1/4-20 x .750 deep in aluminum plate with it no problem.
My goal is 3/8-16 x .750 in the aluminum tooling plate I need to
get around to making for the mill.
I figure I'll need to drill and tap about 253 holes. That's why I built this.
Forget tapping all those holes by hand.
I use the 4th axis to drive it with the steps per setup so that 1.000 in = 1 revolution.
If I want the hole to be 1.0 in deep with 20 tpi, the A axis 'moves' 20.0 in (20 revs)
I'm not rigid tapping (though I'm going to try it later)
I made a spring loaded tension/compression tapping fixture that allows to tapping head to have
a little give (about 1/4 inch) in either direction.
Patterned it from a commercial item used on an industrial CNC mill. About $160 for a cheap one.
So far so good, no broken taps or stripped threads, but hey, I've only done 7 holes so far:)
More playing to do.
Check out the first video here (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos9.html#videos51&52).
Thanks Hoss

http://www.hossmachine.com

project5k

11-24-2007, 11:55 PM

hey, hoss, I gotta have me one of these, i'm headed in the same direction for the tooling plate that you are.. can you give some details on the spring loaded internals?

It looks to me from the video that you are chucked up in the spindle, is this correct?

dang

11-25-2007, 03:20 AM

Hoss,

Your work continually amazes me. First the ATC, and now a tapping attachement? Unbelievable!

hoss2006

11-25-2007, 06:25 AM

Thanks Proj, Dang,
I'll work on a print for the holder I made now that I see it works.
Here's a couple sources to buy one.
http://www.edwardandrews.com/tapsst.asp
http://www.sommatool.com/catalog/erickson/er.axial.float.tap.holders.asp
MscDirect.com (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMCTLG=00&PMAKA=84941616&partnerURL=http://catalogs.shoplocal.com/mscdirect/index.aspx%6Fpagename=shopmain%50circularid=11264%50pagenumber=1648%50mode=)
There are many types of tap holder types to choose from:
ER Collet type
Biltz style
DA (Double-angle)
TT tap collets (Hardinge)
etc.

I used a drill chuck for simplicity ( going to put one of the new smaller chucks on there)
I've power tapped for years on Bridgeports at work using a drill chuck.
It works like an adjustable torque release collet so that if the tap binds up,
it will spin (hopefully) in the chuck and not snap off.
If the tap stops rotating, kill power and take it out by hand. Much better than trying
to dig out broken tap chunks.
The tension/compression gives you a bit of travel time to hit the E-Stop.
Hoss

hoss2006

11-25-2007, 07:11 PM

Made Tapping Attachment 2 (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos9.html#videos53&54) video today.
Shows it tapping 10-32 to 1/2-13 threads in 3/8 aluminum plate.
The little stepper is plenty torquey.
Still haven't broken a tap but did freeze the 1/2-13 the first time when it spun in the chuck.
Changed the program to allow more chip breaking and it worked great the 2nd time.
I made a complete set of programs to handle most TPI's up to 1/2-13.
I have them tap to .500 deep then put in M1 op stop.
If I need it to continue deeper, I hit Cycle Start and it will go to .750 them M1 again.
Repeats to 1.00 and 1.25 if needed.
Now when I need to put some threading in a program
I can copy and paste the code from these files for the depth I need.
Here's what I used for the 10-32:

(32 TPI)

G01 A4.0 Z-.125 F40
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
G01 A8.0 Z-.250
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
G01 A12.0 Z-.375
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
G01 A16.0 Z-.500
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
M1
G01 A20.0 Z-.625
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
G01 A24.0 Z-.750
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
M1
G01 A28.0 Z-.875
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
G01 A32.0 Z-1.000
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
M1
G01 A36.0 Z-1.125
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
G01 A40.0 Z-1.250
G01 A0.0 Z0.0
M2

The 1/2-13 program is much longer with chip breaking every .040 deep.
Think I'll try going the other way and see how many 4-40 taps I can break.
Now to get a slab of 12x24x.750 aluminum and make that tooling plate.
Later Hoss

http://www.hossmachine.com

KOS

11-25-2007, 07:36 PM

hey hoss

here is my plate. it is aluminum but one row is drilled and tapped and has stainless steel heli coils in there, and then the other row is just drilled for dowel pins...so one row of screw holes and one row of dowel pin holes, screw then dowel etc etc...prob around 450 holes in total for this plate...

Just an idea anyways for the heli coils to save the threads...

hoss2006

11-26-2007, 06:37 PM

I like the extra dowel pin holes KOS, I'll be doing the same.

It only took about 11 months, but I have a complete parts list
for the CNC Conversion here (http://www.hossmachine.com/cnc_conversion_parts_list.html).
Hoss

http://www.hossmachine.com

project5k

11-27-2007, 02:10 PM

i guess i havent found that special combination of things to do when i'm tapping small holes, I'm working on my controller box and drilled and tapped a bunch of holes in a heatsink for my geckos and ended up breaking 2 6-32 taps in the process, i've tried doing it by hand, and i just cant hold it straight, i've tried using the drillpress to just hold the tap and turning the spindle by hand, and i've tried putting the tap in a cordless drill, i gues i'm gonna have to get one of these auto tapping things or just start using larger holes...

suggestions?

my other questions is this, if i do break off a tap in the hole, how can i get it out? ive dried drilling them out, ive tried heat, all with no real luck...

hoss2006

11-27-2007, 02:46 PM

These can aide broken tap extraction.
Tap Extractors by Walton (http://www.wttool.com/category-exec/category_id/14610)
Extra Tap Extractor Fingers (http://www.wttool.com/category-exec/category_id/19644)
This Hand Tapper (http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/25597/nm/Hand_Tapper)makes tapping holes a piece of cake.
Hoss

tpworks

11-28-2007, 12:51 AM

Harbor Freight has a hand tapper for $49.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46502

hoss2006

12-02-2007, 04:05 PM

Got the 12 x 20 tooling plate machined and mounted this weekend.
Bought the stock at Online Metal Supply (http://www.onlinemetalsupply.com/).
They also have some good deals they sell on Ebay,
that's where I got the 12 x 24 x .750 aluminum plate for $72.
Now I just have to drill and tap (240) 3/8-16 holes and drill and ream (209) .250 holes.
Eh, next weekend.
Hoss

maxboostbusa

12-02-2007, 04:22 PM

Hey Hoss great job on all your upgrades, really shows what you can do with a product if you use a little imagination. Did you use preloaded ballnuts on your X-Y-Z axis'?

Micro Rotors

12-04-2007, 02:43 PM

krymis

12-04-2007, 04:39 PM

hoss,
you have pm and e-mail. I am interested in contacting you.

project5k

12-06-2007, 01:35 PM

I'm right in the middle of making my tooling plate as well, it was a chunk of off cut that i found at the local metal recycler... so i just dressed it up a bit and i'm gonna use it.. i was originally thinking about drilling and tapping the holes, but aftre some thought, i just decided that i'm gonna mill out pockets in the backside and epoxy nuts in, that way if i do ever strip one, i at least have a chance to dig it out... my plan is to mill the pockets so that the nuts just fit in there, so that they cant rotate, the epoxy will just hold them in, not try and keep them from rotating.. the one thing that i'm concerned with is chips filling the holes, and how to clean them out..

one other thought was to elevate the tooling plate off the table just a bit to help with the hole cleanout.. any thoughts??

Bob Adams

12-06-2007, 02:13 PM

Hey project5k, This would not require Tapping or epoxy, just press in the nut.
checkout my software at:
http://www.cad2gcode.com/millshapes/
Bob A

project5k

12-07-2007, 06:05 AM

i dont know if i can reliably press a nut into solid alum... and i would allways be worried that they would vibrate out over time... Plus i'm using square nuts, not hex... but thanks...

Bob Adams

12-07-2007, 10:25 AM

i dont know if i can reliably press a nut into solid alum... and i would allways be worried that they would vibrate out over time... Plus i'm using square nuts, not hex... but thanks... How do you plan on cutting and drilling that many squares?

hoss2006

12-08-2007, 03:16 PM

Making progress.
Have the tooling plate milled flat and all the holes drilled, reamed and counter sunk.
Now on to tapping.
Changed my tapping program to retract less for the chip break and increased the feed rates
so hopefully I should get the holes all tapped this weekend.
I would post a little video but my site is down again, freakin Canada.
My server is in Ontario, must be iced up.
Thinking again about Godaddy.
This is costing me money, Can't get any ad clicks,
if everyone that visited just clicked one ad on their way out, that would be awesome.
They are on here too so take a sec and help out the zone.
Hoss

Oldboy

12-08-2007, 07:08 PM

Hi Hoss
Sent you a email a week ago. Not sure if you got it.
Anyway I like your site and will try to click on a few AD's every day if it will help you out. Im very interested in your 4th Axis Lathe CNC set up.
Would like to know more about it. To see if it would do 12 TPI threads on 4340 Steel 30 inch long Barrels? And could be made to do Tapering & Flutting barrels?

hoss2006

12-08-2007, 08:20 PM

Hey Oldboy,
I replied but got a network error.
I didn't think my setup could turn those threads on aluminum yet alone steel.
Maybe with a much bigger motor (1000 oz/in +) and a larger pulley ratio 4:1, perhaps.
Tapers are no problem and flutes should be possible if there's enough X travel.
Got me thinking about the threads.Hmmm.:idea:
Maybe I could use bit in the spindle for Thread Milling, then rotate the head 90 degrees.
Use that to cut the threads along the X axis, should be able to cut anything that way.
Now I have another project to try out.
Hoss

P.S. Got about 150 holes tapped tonight, got it down to 25 seconds per hole.
A lot faster than doing it by hand.
http://www.hossmachine.com

Oldboy

12-08-2007, 09:02 PM

Hi Hoss
May be you got my email address wrong some how? Any way I will keep in touch. Another email.
25 Sec. per hole? Thats FAST. It would have taken you a week to drill by hand. Thats if your hand holds up.
Yes I was thinking of a large stepper motor to drive the 4th axis.
And for Tapering Barrels or just lathe turning use the existing lathe motor like you did. But with a slower RPM for steel.
I was all so thinking of purchasing a End Mill for threads. They make them you know?
But you dont need to rotate the head 90 degrees.
Just make sure tip of end mill is center on part to be treaded and go.

hoss2006

12-08-2007, 10:22 PM

Good point, just have to locate some 60 degree end mills.
These at Harvey Tool (http://www.harveytool.com/products/product_detail.php?product_id=15400-C3&category_id=1&product_family=Drill%2FEnd+Mills)may work but really for drilling and not recommended for steel though.

I have the Tooling Plate video up at youtube.
Hoss

project5k

12-08-2007, 10:48 PM

ok, so hoss, i'm drawing up my plate and the machining that goes with it, inserting square nuts in from the backside and then epoxying them in, but it dawned on me pretty early on that the tooling plate is larger than the working area of my mill, so how do you suggest that i do one section, move it and do the next and actually get it lined up correctly?

hoss2006

12-09-2007, 05:48 AM

Hey Proj,
Truthfully, if you're just putting in bolt holes for clamping, the locations don't
need to be all that accurate. The clamps can put anywhere.
But if you want location pins like I also added, accuracy is a must.
I want to be able to push in a couple .250 pins then butt the work, vise, etc.
up against them. Then I can clamp it down knowing the edge is parallel with the axis.
My work area is 12 x 18.5 but the plate bolt pattern is 12 x 19.
I just removed the home switch trigger(bolt) so I could overtravel the X axis.
If I wanted to go farther, I would pick an edge to use as the datum, I wrote BACK on the plate in the picks.
I indicated that edge parallel with the Y axis, machined the plate, then flipped it around to the opposite side.
I reindicated the same BACK edge parallel with the Y again and finished the other side.
If you want to just slide the X axis down to finish a few more holes, you could use pins in the table.
Like I did when milling the new longer X axis.
Machine a bunch of holes, slide the tooling plate down keeping it against the pins and reclamp.
Indicate the last hole drilled and the rest will line up.
There just has to be something in common (datum) with the first setup and the second, plate edge, hole, whatever.
Hoss

project5k

12-09-2007, 05:58 AM

yea, i was figuring that i had to have a common denominator.. i was thinking about using the machine itself... something along the lines of mount it, cut the first set, then using the head in a hole, unclamp the part, and move the x and y axis, using the onscreen DRO's to know exactly how far, then reclamp and verify the theory being that the head would hold the plate in place and not move in relation to the world, but the table could slide under the part.. then reset my zeros, and procede.
and your right, for this, where i'm just making holes it dosent need to be perfect, but this is an excercize for the future, i can afford some error on this, but if i can learn in my shop how to tackle an oversized part, then when the real need arrizes, i know what i'm able to do...

hoss2006

12-16-2007, 12:46 PM

Jay C

12-16-2007, 02:06 PM

FYI, I looked for the ads on your site to click ... nada.

krymis

12-18-2007, 10:31 AM

hoss2006

12-18-2007, 11:35 AM

hoss,
i picked up the grizzly g9322 2" boring head kit. Is this big enough to do the z axis plate boring? I just used the hass super mini mill to dot he motor mounts and the y axis spacer, but wanted to at least do some of the conversion parts on the seig mill. http://www.grizzly.com/products/2-Boring-Head-Combo-Set-R-8-Only/G9322 is the link to what i bought.

Nice looking boring head set. Should be just fine, you only need to bore out to 2.338 (or the bearing diameter).
Take it in small passes .025 -.050. Use the stubbiest bar for strength and to keep the chatter down.
Hoss

hoss2006

12-23-2007, 10:01 PM

Made good progress on the Flood Coolant Enclosure this weekend.
Have the 42 x 55 x 5 inch tray nearly finished along with the 24 inch side and rear panels.
May try applying the Herculiner (http://www.247autoparts.com/store/herculiner.html) tomorrow morning if the caulking has set up.
Made the panels removable for access to the mill for repairs etc.
They fit in slots in the base and will be held in place with draw latches.
Need to pick up a shower drain and some 1/4 plexiglass for the door panels Wednesday.
The tray bottom pitch should drain the coolant to the front left.
Have a good holiday everyone, Hoss

hoss2006

12-24-2007, 03:09 PM

Put the first coat of Herculiner on the Enclosure today.
That's some messy, gritty, stinky stuff.
Used a brush and roller to get it in the nooks and crannies.
Think I'll wait till wed. and get some thinner to be able to spray on the second coat.
I better go get the presents wrapped anyhow.
Later Hoss

SpeedsCustom

12-24-2007, 04:33 PM

Looks mighty good! Are you going to cover the top and everything.

-Speed

ViperTX

12-24-2007, 04:58 PM

I'm wondering how easy that type of material will be to clean up?

hoss2006

12-24-2007, 05:24 PM

SpeedsCustom - Not covering the top, The mill is in my workshop.
If a few rambunctious chips fling out now and again,who cares.

ViperTX - Clean up? That's the maids problem.:)
As long as the coolant drains I'll be happy.
If the chips build up over the table, I might vacuum some of them out:)
it will never be clean again.
Happy Holidays Hoss

maxboostbusa

12-25-2007, 02:05 AM

hoss2006

12-25-2007, 06:10 PM

Merry Christmas everybody. Hey Hoss when you fitted your ballnuts did you get some oversize balls from homeshopcnc or did you just wait until you could remove and measure one to take some of the backlash out? How many did you change also. I am fixing to order my ballscrews and nuts and wanted to check first. I was going to go with double ballnuts but I am going to try it with a single and then if needed go with a double setup. Thanks for all your help.

I actually lucked into the ball bearing deal before I knew that it was an option for reducing backlash.
I went to remove the nut during construction and sent ball bearings bouncing all over the floor.
Of course I couldn't find them all and got some from a guy at work.
They must have been a little oversized because the backlash in the nut went almost to zero afterwards.
I now know that's one way to reduce it.
I replaced about 10 as I recall, it's been over a year.
Hoss

skmetal7

12-25-2007, 10:11 PM

I plan on using the ballscrews form homeshopcnc too, and was going to order some oversize balls from ToolSupply on ebay after I measure and get an average of the stock ball sizes they used, then reload them with the oversized ones. That should be fun....

Im not sure how much larger to go on the oversize though, 0.0002", 0.0004"? I guess it varies from screw to screw.

Thazul

12-26-2007, 05:26 PM

skmetal7:

Here is a very informative & detailed paper on eliminating backlash with over sized balls.
http://www.precisionballs.com/Ball_Screw_Repair.html

They also sell any sized ball your heart desires.
I called them and they were able to help me with some balls I lost out of a linear truck, quick shipping too.

-

Andy

hoss2006

12-28-2007, 08:26 PM

Used my old Wagner power painter to put the 2nd coat of Herculiner on the enclosure.
Went a lot faster but the spatter covered my arms with black.
Luckily I had some acetone to clean it off right away.
Made the mistake of letting the stuff dry on my hands a bit and they are still black 4 days later.
Pretty permanent stuff.
Installed the draw latches to hold the walls in place.
Have my coolant resevoir and strainer ready, used a tote and pond filter.
Added an overflow to the side of the filter.
Should finish the doors tomorrow but waiting on a bunch of plumbing and loc-line parts from McMaster.
Later Hoss

SpeedsCustom

12-28-2007, 11:33 PM

What are you using for your strainer? I'm trying too figure out a way on how too catch the chips without them getting into the pump again but also trying too catch the chips after they leave the enclosure.

-Speed

toneV8

12-29-2007, 01:36 AM

hoss2006: on tooling plate what is distance between holes and which screw you using.

hoss2006

12-29-2007, 07:45 AM

Speed - I used this replacement pond filter from Lowes.
Garden Treasures �
Universal Replacement Filter(MF500, MF750, BF1000)

Item #: 63429 (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=63429-45001-UP750&lpage=none) Model: UP750
I'm trying the black coarse filter.

The Garden Treasures �
Mechanical Filter Box - Up to 500 Gallons

Item #: 60024 (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=60024-45001-MF500&lpage=none) Model: MF500
comes packed with filters but they all have a hole in the center.:mad:

I also have a wire mesh sink stainer for the enclosure to catch the big stuff first.

toneV8 - I used 3/8-16 threaded holes 1.0 inch apart for the tooling plate.

SpeedsCustom

12-29-2007, 10:08 AM

Ok, Cause I could have sworn I have seen that in Lowes as well. Gots too make me a filter and get some coolant running!

-Speed

hoss2006

12-31-2007, 05:25 PM

Bob Adams

12-31-2007, 06:11 PM

Well the doors are on now. Mulled over several ideas for them and settled on
simple double panes hinged to open inwards to keep the drips inside.
Still waiting on the plumbing parts but should finish by next weekend.
Hoss The cabinet looks great and looking forward to next year.
:cheers:
Happy New Year to All!!!
Bob A
http://www.cad2gcode.com/cncprojects/

Rodm1954

12-31-2007, 11:22 PM

Hi Hoss,
There is no doubt about it your contribution to CNCZone for 2007 was outstanding. Your have done what others just talk about and the thought that goes into your designs is first class.
I'm off to click on a couple of sponsors adds on your site and I look forward to anoither year of reading about your adventures here.
Thanks for taking the time to post and share with us.

hoss2006

01-01-2008, 12:24 AM

Thanks Rod,
You were the first and the last to reply to this thread in 2007.:cheers:
It's been a busy year.
2008 probably won't have as many projects but they will be more advanced.
Thanks for the clicks, they do help alot.
Maybe I'll be able to save up for an X3 or an Industrial Hobbies mill this year.:)
Many thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread and the others.
Hope you all have a great 2008.
Hoss

keith_k98

01-01-2008, 02:27 PM

Hi everyone, I just wanted to take a quick minute to introduce myself. I'm new to CNC zone. I have been following this thread for a couple of days now. reading these posts most of which are very inspiring. From reading this thread I can tell you that I am now very interested in buying a mnini mill.

I have two questions for you.

1. On average how much do a x2 or x3 fully CNC controlled cost?
2.How hard is it to setup and configure all of the computer boards and relays?

I understand they machine part of the CNC process that the board's and relays look very confusing to configure .

Hoss, I have been following progress of your machine on youtube and I must say you do great work. I was wondering if you could explain a little more or give a video on how the power drawbar holds and releases tools? I tried viewing the part of your automatic tool changer video that shows the air cylinder and the top of the machine for the couldn't quite tell how it works. Please forgive my ignorance but I have wondered for quite a while now on how those things work.

Happy new year all hope everyone has a good one. Thanks to all

Jay C

01-01-2008, 11:33 PM

Welcome Keith, but I have to tell you your post is called a hijack. It would be better to start your own thread with your questions so as not to "cloud" Hoss's progress and modify your post to point interested folks to it.

As far as the tool changer, the R8 spindle on his mini-mill grabs when the drawbar is tightened thus pulling the R8 collet into the spindle. In Hoss's design, the drawbar is held closed by a stack of Belleville washers pushing/pulling up on the drawbar. The Pneumatic solenoid acts to push the drawbar down just enough to release the hold on the tool from the R8 collet. When the solenoid is released, the spring washers take over and pull the collet closed again.

Now in Hoss's own words:
When you loosen the drawbar by hand, it's free to move up away from the collet
because there's nothing to stop it. So then you have to tap it to release the collet.
With the cam and lever being depressed by the air cylinder against the top of the drawbar, the only way it can move is down against the spring washers.
It pushes the drawbar and collet together, releasing the tool. Voila
Hoss

Hope this helps,
Jay

keith_k98

01-02-2008, 01:36 AM

Hi Jay, thanks for your reply for the loads of good info . I apologize to you and anyone else I may have offended.

thanks much

hoss2006

01-06-2008, 03:14 PM

The flood coolant enclosure is finished.
Have the mill in position and all the lines and wires hooked up and ready to go.
The only thing left is the pump which should be here this week.
Ordered this 900 gph from Surplus Center (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008010614044564&item=2-1307).
Should get the job done.
Placed a valve in the front of the enclosure to be able to adjust the pressure pretty easy.
Now to get started on the new electronics enclosure.:)
Later Hoss

Bob Adams

01-06-2008, 04:29 PM

Hey Hoss, I see you have your Easy Chair ready too.:wee:
Love it!
Bob A

hoss2006

01-06-2008, 07:12 PM

Hey Hoss, I see you have your Easy Chair ready too.:wee:
Love it!
Bob A

Yeah Bob, now I just have to put in a minifridge and I'll be all set.
The 25in TV is on the left. :)
Hoss

digits

01-08-2008, 08:40 PM

Looking good hoss - are you planning to protect your steppers at all? They are pretty impervious to dry chips, but believe me, once your coolant starts to flow, there will be liquid dripping off everywhere you thought it couldn't get to!

Sparky_NY

01-09-2008, 08:52 AM

I uploaded a video showing the 60 tooth timing pulley (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos10.html#videos55&56) milling procedure.
It's the one I used for the Tapping Attachment for the spindle.
Haven't been doing much this week except cleaning up the shop getting
ready to build the flood coolant enclosure.
Looks like it's gonna be about 42 x 55 inches at the base.
I should just use this big tub (http://www.hossmachine.com/fun_stuff.html#hot%20tub) that I have sitting unused in the basement.:)
Hoss

Hoss, a question.

When you made your timing pulleys, did you cut the angled sides of the grooves or just a straight walled groove? I am about to do the same thing with a nearly identical setup but am undecided on what to use for a bit for cutting the belt profile.

ZipSnipe

01-09-2008, 09:17 AM

Damn Hoss, it's been awhile since I last checked your progress and I am impressed, beautiful job ya done. I think out of all the enclosure I,ve seen, I think your door set up is the best. Did you use glass or plexi?

hoss2006

01-09-2008, 11:13 AM

Hey Digits,
yeah I'll finally put the thermoform plastic sheet and heat gun I bought months ago to use.

Sparky,
I just used a standard .078 endmill then chamfered the edges with a little 90 deg. countersink.
If I was going to do a lot of them, I'd probably get or make a bit with the proper profile.
It got the job done.

Zipsnipe,
I used plexiglass in the doors, cheap and easy to replace.
Hoss

krymis

01-09-2008, 11:30 AM

SpeedsCustom

01-09-2008, 11:46 AM

Hoss thanks for the pictures. After you showed me what your filter drainage system was like, I went ahead and went too lowes and purchased some great items for the drain.

M filter I got is used for a Humidifier, it's essentially along the same lines as what you showed me. It great on flow and catches the chips fine!

Thanks for sharing!

Looks good!

-Speed

hoss2006

01-09-2008, 04:03 PM

hoss,

not to drag you back but is there anyway you can post your information on converting the spindle between manual and computer control. I am removing my electronics from the mill to keep moisture out and figured I would setup kinda like you did. I would like to have as much info as possible. Any help would be appreciated.

You can find the info here (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_7.html#electronics)
and a couple videos (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos6.html#videos35&36) that explain a few things too.
You can email me at hoss@hossmachine.com for any specific questions if you want.
Hoss

krymis

01-10-2008, 02:18 PM

thanks hoss. However i purchased a c11 board for my industrial hobbies conversion. Will the c11 board work the same as your c10 and c6 together?

hoss2006

01-10-2008, 02:22 PM

the c11 certainly should work, it combines the c6 and c10 plus some extra stuff.
just pay attention to cnc4pc's wiring instructions.
wouldn't want to fry that one.
Hoss

krymis

01-10-2008, 02:34 PM

hoss2006

01-10-2008, 06:25 PM

with all this is there anyway you can post some pics of setting up you mach configuration to control the spindle. Kinda like you did for the keygrabber. Also how do you switch between manual and cnc spindle function.

I'll get working on something like the keygrabber tutorial.
I switch between manual and PC with a 4P2T switch.
It swaps between power coming from the C6 board and the mill circuit board.

I have the flood coolant up and running now.
The pump from surplus center (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008010614044564&item=2-1307) works great, nice and quiet too.
Have a video (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos10.html#videos55&56) up here.
Later Hoss

hoss2006

01-12-2008, 11:54 AM

Well here we are, the 1 year anniversary of this thread.:banana:
83,141 views and 445 replies!
Been a busy year.:o
Hope the information I passed along helped out, it was my pleasure.
Ran into a few snags along the way but was able to work on through.
Threw some money down the drain, fried electronics, etc, but made some money too.
Thanks to everyone that contributed here,
and thanks to those that helped a brother out with donations,ad clicks and DVD-ROM purchases.
Made it all worth while.:cheers:
Wonder what I'll get into this year?:idea:
Enough yapping, time to get back to work.
Later Hoss

P.S. below are most of the projects I started and finished this year.

hoss2006

01-13-2008, 10:27 AM

Made some Motor Covers for the steppers yesterday to protect them a bit from the coolant.
Used 1/8 in. Clear Lexan Polycarbonate 9034 Sheeting (http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=68&product%5Fid=10718) from USPlastic.com.
Made a wood form the size of the motor and mount, cut the sheet to size,
then used a heat gun to form it around the block.
Made a video here (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos10.html#videos57&58) that shows how.
Works pretty nice, now I'll have to see what else I can cover up.:)
Later Hoss

Bob Adams

01-13-2008, 04:14 PM

I'll get working on something like the keygrabber tutorial.
I switch between manual and PC with a 4P2T switch.
It swaps between power coming from the C6 board and the mill circuit board.

I have the flood coolant up and running now.
The pump from surplus center (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008010614044564&item=2-1307) works great, nice and quiet too.
Have a video (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos10.html#videos55&56) up here.
Later HossHey Hoss is this the Switch you used?
http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008011315015601&item=11-3080&catname=electric
Nice job on the Motor Covers
Bob A
http://www.cad2gcode.com/cncprojects

hoss2006

01-13-2008, 04:54 PM

Hey Bob,
That switch only has 3 wires, you need to have 2 separate circuits(4 wires)
I actually used this ROTARY SWITCH, 4 POLE 3 POSTION (http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/RS-134/700425/ROTARY_SWITCH,_4_POLE_3_POSTION_.html) from allelectronics.com.
The 3rd position I use in the middle as an all off position but it's not necessary.
Hoss

Thazul

01-13-2008, 05:29 PM

Great work Hoss!
Gonna click some ads :D and then go work on mine.
Keep up the good work.

-

Andy

donald_ortega

01-14-2008, 06:50 PM

Donald Ortega
donald_ortega@yahoo.com

Hoss

Re: Thank you for all of your good works and supplying us with these great inventions!

Dear Hoss

Do you have any parts in a kit form, that I could purchase to make a similar cnc conversion.

My machine is a manual machine, but if I had a kit with all the parts, or even some of them, I would make my wax mold cuter into a cnc wax mold cutter!

I am very grateful for all of your replies, and wish you best always. I believe that if you had a
complete kit, you would sell out fast, and become the Hoss of Haas Machine Similar Fame.

It would be a great privilege to meet you, but I live in Buena Park California. I would gladly pay
your price, if you had a complete or even semi complete, kit for guys like me that are not professional machinist.

You are a Great Machinist. I am a lowly bean counter, and pencil pusher, looking to make a
hobby machine for old age supplemental income. I am certain that you are some kind of genius?

Anyway thank you from all of us for your generosity and sharing these great and wonderful projects, which are incredible and beyond all expecations!!!

Sincerely

Don Ortega

P.S. If you were a non profit company I think you would be getting millions for your inventions.

maxboostbusa

01-14-2008, 11:55 PM

Congrats on all the accomplishments for the year, it will be great to see what you have in store for the new year. I am on my road to CNC'ing my mini mill currently largely thanks to this site and especially with this post, your ATC post and your site. I am thinking about buying your DVD and drawing set and was wondering if it included any drawings on the tilt/rotating head, and the tool tray for the ATC? Thanks for all the help and insite.

Jay C

01-14-2008, 11:57 PM

One of the hazards of putting your stuff in public :)

Don have a look at www.cncfusion.com for commercial kits.

hoss2006

01-15-2008, 12:22 PM

Hey Andy,
Thanks a lot, you da man!:cheers:

Hey Don,
Thanks, glad to help when I can.
Kits most likely are in the future but not soon,
have too many other projects I want to make and have fun with first.
Don't have the money to order all the stock and parts to get it all rolling anyway.
Sure wouldn't pull a cncbridges scam and take peoples money with nothing to sell.
Might just have to look into a small business loan.:)
Would like to do like Widgetmaster and make 10 kits up then sell them when they are finished.
We'll see.

Maxboostbusa,
The DVD-rom does include all the prints for the tilt/rotating head etc, but not the ATC.
If you or anyone is interested, I can add a folder with all the ATC pics and prints at no extra charge.
Have 40 prints including 5 different layouts for the tool rack and over 350 pics.
Just add a note when ordering "with ATC".

Jay C,
I probably shouldn't have been so open with all the info,
figure I'll see a company from China selling one of my ideas sooner or later.
But I do have some protection as everything is copyrighted.
I had an idea for a truck tire step years ago and called one of those "get your idea patented" companies.
They told me it didn't sound promising so I dropped it.
Sure enough, 6 months later I saw something for sale just like it in a 4X4 magazine.
Coincidence? maybe.(chair)
later Hoss

Micro Rotors

01-15-2008, 03:08 PM

I probably shouldn't have been so open with all the info,
figure I'll see a company from China selling one of my ideas sooner or later.
But I do have some protection as everything is copyrighted.

later Hoss

The Chinese do not care what you have done, it will be reproduced ... TRUST ME!

Hoss,
Excellent work and what a year with ALL YOUR accomplishments!!!!!

CONGRATS!

Well you do have your name out there and a lot of followers. I guess you could hold some back, but we are all somewhat talented enough to take a picture and copy what we see to some degree.

Again EXCELLENT WORK!

Bioll

Jay C

01-15-2008, 03:49 PM

Jay C,
I probably shouldn't have been so open with all the info,
figure I'll see a company from China selling one of my ideas sooner or later.
But I do have some protection as everything is copyrighted.

later Hoss
My comment was more towards the attention (begging/pleading/rooting) you get when you do such great work :) I'm guilty too ... I remember asking you for some machining back in the early days of this thread ;) also, I love that you were so generous with your designs and experiences ... it makes the idea of being able to do it myself more real.

Jay

hoss2006

01-15-2008, 05:06 PM

Update!
I've had problems with my server in the recent past with hossmachine.com going down.

I now have a mirror site on different server in case there's another problem.

You can now get all the info at http://www.hossmachine.info too.

Thanks, Hoss

Micro Rotors

01-15-2008, 08:04 PM

Hoss,

Good idea, BTW ... how is GoDaddy working for you? I hit ALL the ads while I was there for yhea!

Hey, lets see what you can do to a 7 x * Mini Lathe? Do you have one?

Bill

hoss2006

01-16-2008, 11:36 AM

Hey Bill,
Thanks, but they didn't credit the clicks for some reason, must have given them a brain overload if you went too fast or too many.:)
I have parts left from my HF 7x10, but that's all.
I had a project in mind for it but it's way on the back burner now.
I've been eyeing the 11x26 lathe from grizzly tools.
It's plenty big to make what I want but just small enough to manage wrangling into the basement.
Hoss

Jetlag

01-16-2008, 01:03 PM

hoss, check out this 11x26:

http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/14795/nm/11_x_26_Lathe_With_Stand

It seems comparable to the Grizzly, cheaper, and comes with a stand.

Micro Rotors

01-21-2008, 12:59 PM

Hello Hoss,

I was on you site (once again :)) looking for your Tapping device and the project 8 page is empty, do you still need to do it, or is it down?

BTW ... The .com is down and I was only allowed to use the .info (good thinking on your part).

Thanks
Bill

hoss2006

01-21-2008, 04:08 PM

Hey Bill,
I was just being lazy, The Tapping Attachment Project (http://www.hossmachine.info/projects_8.html) is up now.
At least on hossmachine.info it is.
hossmachine.com just came back online but they don't have a recent update on there.
I'll have to completely upload everything on there again.
Hoss

Micro Rotors

01-21-2008, 05:49 PM

Is the .com on GoDaddy?

hoss2006

01-21-2008, 05:55 PM

Is the .com on GoDaddy?

nope not yet :(

maxboostbusa

01-21-2008, 11:48 PM

The tapping head looks interesting. Let me see if I got the principles behind it. There are two pieces of round stock; one that the drill chuck is mounted to which is bored for a slip fit with piece two, with a drive pin set through near the end. Piece 2 has been turned for a slip fit with piece one and has been slotted X amount to allow linear movement but not rotational. It is preloaded with a spring to allow some movement with resistance.
Is that the basic principles behind the design?? If i got that figured out then I will be surprised. You continue to come up with cool ideas for this little machine and I'm sure you have a few more things up your sleeve. Keep em' coming.

hoss2006

01-22-2008, 02:24 PM

menzies99

01-23-2008, 09:15 PM

Hey There,
Have some more info for you.
If you're looking for the 15/16-16 tap to thread the stop blocks
and pulley, I got mine at Wholesaletool.
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/24817
If you're looking to protect your wiring, I found some plastic
split flex tubing at Lowes. They have 3/8 x 10 feet and 1/2 x 7 feet
packages in the electrical dept. for less than $3. Autoparts stores
carry the same kind of thing.
Here's some pics showing my engraving tutorial.
I've tried tons of different software to change an image into an engraving,
but none gave me what I wanted in one simple program.Please let me know If
you've found something that works nice and easy.This is what I've come
up with.Might seem like a lot of steps, but I can go from a pic to gcode
in about 10 min.Most of that is the tracing.
Thanks Hoss

Hi Hoss
What size drill bit would you recommend to use before using this 15/16-16 tap? This is my first non-reading involvement with this great site.

menzies99

ataxy

01-23-2008, 11:05 PM

http://www.physics.ncsu.edu/pearl/Tap_Drill_Chart.html

15/16-20 you mean?

ok check here for 15/16-16
http://www.mallardtool.com/Tapdrill.pdf

hoss2006

01-24-2008, 01:58 PM

Hey menzies99,
Use a 7/8 drill bit for the 15/16-16 tap.
The cool tapdrill chart posted by ataxy recommends it too.
Thanks ataxy, I saved that one to make a nice big wall chart from.
Hoss

ataxy

01-24-2008, 02:31 PM

Hey menzies99,
Use a 7/8 drill bit for the 15/16-16 tap.
The cool tapdrill chart posted by ataxy recommends it too.
Thanks ataxy, I saved that one to make a nice big wall chart from.
Hoss

yeah its a pretty neat one, if you go on there website there is a download section with a couple of chart and some neat info for end user about cutting tool

maxboostbusa

01-24-2008, 03:01 PM

Hoss you have a PM.
Thanks
Rick

menzies99

01-25-2008, 12:31 AM

hoss2006

01-25-2008, 01:59 PM

helo Hoss
thanks for the information 7/8 drill for 15/16 tap.
With your x2cnc design do you think there would be a problem with clearance between the z axis ballscrew mount plate and the side of the motor if a belt drive kit was installed???

Hey menzies99,
I can't speak for the LMS or other belt conversions, but mine left
about 1/8 inch between the motor and the Z axis plate on the stock X2.
I used the same belt that LMS sells for theirs so the only difference would be in the pulleys.
If they are the same or bigger you'd be OK, smaller and there would be some contact.
Hoss

maxboostbusa

01-25-2008, 02:00 PM

He is using a belt drive on his mill. I have one on mine also and its close. Seems pretty close to his by the pics on his site also. I think I may have .125" clearance.

Micro Rotors

01-25-2008, 03:03 PM

I have the belt drive that is the same one from LMS. I can measure the pullys diameter for you if you would like however, I wont be able to post it until 7:30 - 8:00 pm pacific time. Stupid job and I comute 200 miles a day for it!

Agrrrr!!!!!

If some one can do it before then, please do so.

Bill

tpworks

01-28-2008, 11:15 PM

I removed the rack and moved the screw as far back as I could and have about .75" clear using the LMS belt drive.

skip20

01-30-2008, 11:23 AM

My power board board went out as will.
I got a 90VDC speed controller off eBay to fit the it.
Now you can turn on/off in MACH3
skip20

labraticmp3

01-30-2008, 02:00 PM

Hoss and tpworks,

Your Z axis mods have inspired me to try something similar on my X1 but first I have to convert to a belt drive so I will have room for the ballscrew.

How did you guys attach the Z axis plate to the ballscrew?

tpworks,

Could you provide me some information on the bearing you used for the the Z axis ballscrew? Like manufacturer and part number or a description and size.

Thanks.

maxboostbusa

01-30-2008, 07:24 PM

Go to www.hossmachine.com or www.hossmachine.info and look under CNC conversion. Hoss has all the parts listed and even where to get them and stock #'s for the parts.

labraticmp3

01-30-2008, 08:58 PM

Go to www.hossmachine.com or www.hossmachine.info and look under CNC conversion. Hoss has all the parts listed and even where to get them and stock #'s for the parts.

Thanks to the tip but I have been there already, lots of good information for sure. But looking at the pictures of both Hoss's and tpworks's Z axis they look different to me. So I was hoping to get some info from tpworks on his Z axis so that I can compare them and get maybe some more ideas.

tpworks

01-30-2008, 11:11 PM

labraticmp3,
The bearing that I used is a double row angular contact from VXB
http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=bearings&Product_Code=Kit6938&Category_Code=

And I turned down a piece of 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" aluminum rod to 25 mm to fit through the bearing with a 1" pipe thread on the end to accept a retaining nut with set screw on one end and threaded the other to accept the ball nut.

Micro Rotors

01-31-2008, 12:56 AM

This is mine if it helps.

Bill

labraticmp3

01-31-2008, 01:27 PM

Thanks tpworks and Micro Rotors, thats helps a lot. :)

Now if I can just find out the secrect of attaching the Z axis plate to the end of the ballscrew...

hoss2006

01-31-2008, 01:35 PM

Simply use a socket head cap screw (5/16-24 in my case)
The Z axis plate is counterbored to allow the plate to mount flush with the head.
Hoss

labraticmp3

01-31-2008, 08:53 PM

Thanks Hoss, now the Z Axis Ballscrew Base drawing on your website makes sense to me.

maxboostbusa

01-31-2008, 11:46 PM

hoss2006

02-01-2008, 02:32 AM

Hey Hoss how is the coolant pump from surplus center working out? Does that Pond filter get clogged with chips quickly? That setup seems like it would work well since the filters for ponds get leaves and all kinds of stuff in it anyway. I noticed you installed double air springs. Those come from Surplus center? Ive been looking all over the place trying to find some with enough travel that dont have a ton of pressure. Keep up the exciting work I need to have some inspiration for a control panel :).
Rick

Hey Rick,
The pumps working great, nice and quiet and plenty of pressure.
The pond filter was starting to clog in the video I posted (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos10.html#videos57&58) for the new mill console (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51369) parts.
I think I'll add a spacer underneath to keep the filter from plugging the drain hole.
Yeah, got those air springs from surplus center (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008020101243459&item=1-1676) for $3 a piece.
9 5/8 in. stroke and 30 lbs of force.
The 2 together still don't completely counter balance the weight of the head (about 100 lbs)
but it definitely helps the balance letting me really snug the gibs.
Hoss

BrassBuilder

02-04-2008, 03:53 PM

Hoss,
What coolant are you using?
Mike

skip20

02-04-2008, 04:16 PM

Hey that surplus center is great place to spead money.
Thanks for the link to
SKIP20

hoss2006

02-04-2008, 04:19 PM

Hey Mike,
I'm trying Syn-Kool (http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1659496&PMT4NO=0) from Mscdirect.
It's only $22 a gallon but can dilute with up to 30 parts water.
Biodegradable, excellent rust protection, won't turn rancid in the sump,
used in CNC equipment, used for ferrous metals as well.
I've just used it with aluminum so far as seen in this video (http://www.hossmachine.com/Videos10.html#videos57&58).
Fixed the clogging strainer by placing 4 pieces of 1 1/2in. PVC pipe about 1 inch thick
under the filter.
Lets the coolant flow down the drain easier.
Didn't clog at all yesterday working on the face frame pieces for the Mill console.
Hoss

skip20

02-04-2008, 04:22 PM

Here is a small router table I'm finishing up. The 8th build now + 2 Plasa Cutter.
Will use to cut & drill PC Boards.
The other picture is of some small stepper turntable I plan to use to build a Laser 3D Scanner.
By the way it's sitting on top of my home built 4' x 8' Table.
Skip20

BrassBuilder

02-04-2008, 05:58 PM

Hey Hoss,
I just went out on a parts excursion for the coolant project, but came up empty handed.

That filter setup, is it basically just a piece of foam sitting on the bottom of the box and then the coolant runs through it before hitting the drain back to your holding tank?

What I was thinking of doing is to run the slopes of my enclosure about 4-5" short of the front edge. I was then going to caulk in a piece of plastic house drain gutter across the front for the coolant to run into and then drain it back to the holding tank. For the filter, I found some foam 5" wide dehumidifier filters that I was going to place on top of the gutter all the way across the front. These are a fairly fine filter and I do not think filings will make it through. What do you think?

Mike

hoss2006

02-04-2008, 06:16 PM

Sounds good Mike,
You're right on the filter setup.
I have a few more pics on my website (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_8.html#flood%20coolant) of the flood coolant setup.
Shows the slope of the panels for drainage and the sink drain.
Hoss

BrassBuilder

02-04-2008, 07:19 PM

Hoss,
I found the pictures. That is such a cool setup!

What size PCV pipe did you run for the delivery line to the mill? This is the piping that runs across the front and along the right side. It looks like it is 1/2" or 3/4"

Did you do anything special to protect the wiring from liquid? From the pics, it looks like it is all in split loom.

On my bed, should I drill holes in it for drains? I was thinking a 1/2" hole in each corner?

I saw the video for your motor covers made out of plexiglass. I plan on doing the same.

Thanks
Mike

hoss2006

02-05-2008, 11:55 AM

Hey Mike,
It's 1/2 inch pvc water line from the pump. The flexible stuff was expensive.
they are just split flex cable covers but I used liquid electrical tape
at all the wire connections to keep things from shorting out.
Hoss

BrassBuilder

02-05-2008, 12:49 PM

OK...I thought it was probably the 1/2" stuff.

I got all the parts coming for the build now. I bought the 1/4" Loc-Line components. The 1/2" looked like it was going to be too big. I am going to run two nozzles and I figured the 1/4" would work better. If it doesn't, it shouldn't be a big deal to switch it over to 1/2" (other than the cost).

I'll try to get a video of this once I am done.

Mike

krymis

02-06-2008, 10:06 AM

hoss,

would it be feasable to turn a collar to go around the uncut ballscrew? Its to tie in the motor to get the mill moving. Or would you be willing to turn 2 sets of ballscrews for the x and y? I have the screws cut to rough length already. I would really hate to mess up the screws at this point. Also my lathe has not been indiacted. is that a big problem? Should i indicate it before turning any more parts or are they pretty close from the factory (Cummins Tool)?

hoss2006

02-06-2008, 12:16 PM

Hey krymis,
I would definitely indicate your chuck whenever you go to turn something.
I generally use 4 jaw chucks so the part needs indicated every time anyhow.
Some 3 jaw chucks can also be adjusted to indicate them in as well.
I suppose an adapter could be made that would have the bearing and threaded ends
with a sleeve that could fit over the ballscrew and held in place with a couple of setscrew and/or epoxy.
Probably need to be about a 3/4 to 1 inch bore depth for strength.
If you want, I could draw up a couple of prints of what I think could work.
It will cost some X and Y axis travel though and the X2 doesn't have a lot to spare.
If you're interested in sending me your ballscrew stock to turn, send me a private message and I'll give you a price.
Hoss

maxboostbusa

02-10-2008, 11:47 PM

Hey Hoss had you posted the code for the home switch covers sometime or have I been sniffing to many chips? I skimmed this post and the ATC and your site and cant find it if I even seen it. Might just be going cookoo. LOL :confused:

Post #500 on your topic too thats cool

hoss2006

02-11-2008, 06:42 AM

Hey Max,
I do have the prints posted on my website (http://www.hossmachine.com/projects_7.html#home%20switches).
Just scroll down a little.
Hoss

hoss2006

02-16-2008, 09:15 PM

Optical Tool Setter.
First got the idea from S_J_H's post (http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=27425) and also from Micro Rotors here (http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52116).
Thanks guys!:cheers:
I used my old Veo Connect USB Webcam and my custom housing to be able to align
the spindle with a mark on the part, hole, cross hair, centerpunch, etc.
Will make setting the spindle