here we go.....

like most people in this forum, I've been lurking around for a while now, and it's time for my build, it seems people aren't really building much jgro's lately, but I planned on making one and i'm gonna finish it, i hate to leave things half done, imo "half done is not done".

Status

: most parts are cut
: no pipes as yet
: have to order kit from hobby cnc
: bearings to collect

note. I'll be altering this plan a little.

here are a few pix........

Now........

before anyone comments, this thing is gonna be "YELLOW", yep you heard me "yellow", it's "here", it's "free", that's how it's gonna be. :D

And your are off to the races.
The faster you build the faster it finishes.

Jason

well that's the plan, but the motors and stuff will be what to wait for, my wife and kids are going to canada for two weeks from tuesdays, that means i'll have more time once work is done, and hopefully she can return with the kit.

update, few more pics of progress, and those are not the pipes i'm using in the gantry, just wanted to see how it looks, note the alterations.........

a little more progress, these parts nicely sanded

there's a fly on your z-Axis

lol, observant joe, i didn't notice, guess i'm blinded by the fact that i'm finally building my first cnc, and I guess you know where i got the idea for that design.

I too am working on the Jgro stile machine. I started with the Motors, Drivers, and Pwr Supply. I have been taking my sweet time and am down to getting the Z axis completed. I should be done by spring at the rate I’m going, LOL.

I think it’s a great design to get your feet wet with so to speak. And can be used to cut parts for a more sophisticated machine when you’re ready to move up. I have learned a lot from lurking and reading. As soon as I get my up and running I’ll probably start cutting parts for a machine like Joe’s 2006.

Good luck with your build, it looks great!

well V&B, looks like you and i are taking identical routes, my plans are the same as yours, even wanting to make joe's machine, i even thought of being so bold as to try upgrading joe's to a 4' x 4' machine, (any comments anyone?)

Its possible but most will not agree. We won't know unless someone tries.

I don't even want to think what the gantry will weigh.

I think CNC_Darren was going along those lines with a large wooden machine a while back but I am not sure what happened.

Jason

well V&B, looks like you and i are taking identical routes, my plans are the same as yours, even wanting to make joe's machine, i even thought of being so bold as to try upgrading joe's to a 4' x 4' machine, (any comments anyone?)

sure it can be done with inerlocking pieces, to form the torsion boxes. I can already see it in my mind... :)

well i know it can be done, as far as weight goes, i think structure is the key with as light materials as possible, but thinking :idea:now .......... woooo, i got to start drawing this thing, now i'm developing a new obession before completing the present one, I better leave this one pending though, i don't want to stray again, last time i did that i was going in circles (remember jason?) I just got to finish my Jgro and gain some more experience first, all in good time.

Tajord,

I think you should give the 4X4 a shot. It might take some trial and error to get it done. Just remember that “failures are merely the stepping stones on the path to success”.

With all the failures I have had, I must be getting close to success, lol.

P.S. finish ths jgro first....

In time, Deeds not words :)

can anyone help me find some lovejoy couplers or similar, 1/4" bore & 3/8" bore that ships outside of the states and canada.......

www.surpluscenter.com

Tajord,

How’s the build going? Got any new photos to share…

hey V&B, i'm on a little "stall" right now, it's that time of the year when stuff ordered from the states get misplaced and stuff due to huge quantity of imports, so i'm suffering as a result, but they'll show up in time, as soon as that happens i'll be back on track, pix and all :)

Stay tuned..........

I am thinking on building one of these but reduce it by 25% - do you think that it would work?
Dan

hey dan, reducing the size from what i've seen is not a problem, if you would've looked around the zone you'll see a few have done this before, imo one good i'd say is that if you reduce the size on the longer travels, it should perform a little better as you should get greater IPM (inches per minute) before "whipping" of the threaded rods occur, but it also depends on the router/spindle you're gonna be using, i'd say go for it as long as it suites your needs, good luck.

Just wanted to post something for those of you who might have been following up my build, i'm currently awaiting some parts i have ordered, thus my hands are tied, but at least here's a sneak peak of what the finished product will look close to, enjoy....:rainfro:

my X axis is using 60" pipes, here's now i plan for the structure, after this i will use threaded bolts right through from side to side to add support against any flexing. Any comments on a smarter approach will be welcomed.

Looks like a sound design. Don't lock down everything until the long pipes are lined up.

Jason

here's my problem, i'm on hold as far as hardware is concerned, so i'm telling myself use this time to learn about mach/cam software, g-code etc, i've been able to run a simulation of the "road runner" g-code file in the quantum/mach3 demo, can anyone tell me or guide me to any tutorials on the conversion from dxf files to whatever mach needs to actually run/simulate the files, feel like i'm just sitting still here anxiously twiddling thumbs. :(

Check out www.ncplot.com
It has a 60 day demo usage.

Jason

Thanks jason,

only thing it says here it's usable for 15 days, is there another one that has more days?

I guess Scott reduced the demo time. It was 60 days for a long time.
Version 1.1 is free, give it a try

Jason

oops, I do not think it has dxf import.

Well this is interesting, on the site it says "You may download and try NCPlot free for 15 days. After this trial period has expired, the software will stop functioning and you must purchase a license key to continue using it." but i installed it and it says it has 60 days left, guess we'll see. :confused:

Hi,

The current version of NCPlot v2 (RC3) still has a 60 day trial. The web page was updated recently in preparation for the release of V2. The final beta will be available in a few days which will have a 30 day time limit. Then, about mid February, V2 will be officially released. And, as you saw the final release will have a 15 day trial time.

I hope this clears up any confusion.

Scott

thanks scott it did :)

New guy here!
Can someone answer lovejoy coupler question? On my foamcutter, I use a short piece of tubing with hose clamps to connect the steppers to the lead screw. Is there a torque or RPM threshold that warrants a switch to lovejoy couplers?

Today I bought the wood for my first CNC Router and I will be building the Jgro version. Tonight, I'm gathering infomation. Tomorrow I'll cut some wood.

Hoorahhh!
Dave

PS, these people will ship outside the US if you make an email request.
http://www.nextag.com/lovejoy-coupler/search-html

can anyone help me find some lovejoy couplers or similar, 1/4" bore & 3/8" bore that ships outside of the states and canada.......

So could you run a hacksaw down the middle of the stepper shaft to make a slot and then grind or whatever the end of the acme rod.

where these 2 meet cover it with the tube/hose clamp to prevent slipage but ensure a nice tight snug fit? Might be worth a little file and manual labor to produce this.

PIC....

hey Coogrrr

Interesting theory, i don't think i'm too keen on slotting my stepper shaft like that, one thing that you have to consider is that the stepper might not be aligned with the acme rod that's where the flexible couplings or rubber hose come into play, these compensate for that misalignment, and with the motor shaft and acme rod slotted like that, i think there is possibility of binding, just my two cents.

i have seen this design used before and when used with tubing it's fairly good.

i still prefer these, (not necessarily this brand but its the first one i was able to google)

http://www.renbrandt.com/onepiece.html

i have seen this design used before and when used with tubing it's fairly good.

i still prefer these, (not necessarily this brand but its the first one i was able to google)

http://www.renbrandt.com/onepiece.html


WOW!!!!

I am asking them for some quotes now, that is an awesome product!

Thank you!!!

indeed these look nice, and seeing here they're aluminium too, nice X2, how's about passing on that quote when you get it coogrrr, just got to find out if they ship outside of the US & Canada providing they're not too expensive. :o

can anyone tell me or guide me to any tutorials on the conversion from dxf files to whatever mach needs to actually run/simulate the files, feel like i'm just sitting still here anxiously twiddling thumbs. :(

Try using LazyCAM, accessible from Mach3's file menu. There are video tutorials at http://www.machsupport.com/videos.htm

is that something not normally used ? you seem rather excited.

i first seen these 10 years ago used in precision optical fixtures using stepper motors to move a rotary mask with different profiles where the tolerance was +- 1 micron for beam placement.

in 10 years of robotic repair in 7 company's I've seen hundreds of different machines from different company's use these.

alas it's here,

well it's something to play with "oh how I love to tinker", my hobby cnc kit is here, don't think i'll get to put it together till sunday if i'm lucky, "have to go out sometime that day too, hope plans change":D here's the contents of the kit, fan, guard, capacitor, cables, heatsink and all hardware, three lovely 200 oz/in steppers, all instructions and diagrams and of course packing peanuts.........

That's a huge capacitor. Wow. Nice looking hardware. 200 in-oz steppers I presume.

yeah, exactly what i thought when i first saw one a friend has on "his" Jgro. and yes they are the 200 oz/in.

i was looking at the hobby cnc website, it says kits are Sold Out Until Further Notice. all the main parts included in the kits appear to be in stock, does this mean they no longer will be selling kits?


i think the only thing the kit had that they didnt sell seperatly was wires, shrink tubing and connectors.

anyone know?

I just looked on the site too, man wouldn't it be a bummer if they stopped selling kits after all this time with such a popular product which seems to be a really good or best bang for the buck?:(

Yesterday i took a trip to the quote/unquote hardware store, my motivation for this was after a company quoted over $700 bucks for a transformer, i was thinking "is he CRAZY?(chair) " I think he meant something else, anyhow here's what i got, these are some microwave transformers, i read somewhere that these can be modified to work for building the power supply, has anyone done this and care to chip in on their experience on doing so?

Also got some switches, didn't know you found them in microwaves, about three to four in each.

http://www.cnczone.com/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&id=27

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7656&highlight=microwave

Joe

I rewound one for my machine. Works very well:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14863&page=6

ok stupid question time, (1) which direction do you rewind the "new" coils for the transformer)? Madclicker I saw you used insulated wire as opposed to magnet wire, how does that go, i'm looking at about the 10 amp range, if i use that kind of wire, what gauge would give me what i need to accomplish this, below is one of your shots and my tranny after some elbow grease.

Maybe Bubba can chip in to lend his expertees <-- (did I spell that right)?

I used the industrial wire to get a rough idea of how many coils I had to wind to get the voltage I needed. Later in the log you can see the magnet wire I actually used for the final job.

It doesn't matter which direction you wind.

Did you remove the flux shunts?

not entirely sure what the "flux shunts" are yet.:o

got the hobbyCNC driver board assembled finally, progress is slow as work has taken a major role for me lately, got to get some wire for the tranny so i can test this bad boy, just haven't quite figured out yet what size will be best suited to get the "current" i need, about 10 amps, i think i read somewhere that too much amps can decay the life of your steppers, wouldn't want that to happen, also, the guys that sell the wire says they sell it in "imperial" not metric so if that's the case i'll have to get the conversion, i know this might seem like a lot to go through for a transformer but at least at the end of it all i'll be able to make a power supply at my desired voltage and current, i think that's worth all the trouble i'm willing to go through, anyone can help me with this i'd be most appreciative and willing to share.

looks like i made a boo boo, Just realized i put a resistor network in the wrong location, and can't seem to get it out without damaging it.:withstupiI wonder if this part can be easily replaced?

Managed to get the Resistor Network out and placed in the right location, boy that was a killer, one of the pins broke right off, I was "PI**ED", had to make a fake pin with the use of "solder", tested for continuity from both sides of the board after installing it, came back good, now i got to get the tranny up and running to see if all want well, keeping my fingers crossed, wish me luck.

Have you gotten to the point of checking the Vref yet? That's fun, the first check that you've built the board correctly. How many amps are you planning to draw?

Yeah i did, instructions recommend 70% for initial testing, so that's what i set it at for now, after testing it i'll get a better idea how much i will draw by then based on performance. (that is, if the board works):o

here are two transformers that i wired, did a test on them both, the smaller one used #12 awg, that gave me 23.4 volts, cut the wire a little too short of giving me 24v, and the larger one used #11 awg, gave me 26.7 volts with about 5 feet of wire to spare, when i did this one it went better than the first, got the wire packed in good without too much of a fight, especially considering the stiffness of the #11 wire, did a little trick with a piece of wood, I was surprised at how well the wire coating resists heat, i put it under a lighter for at least 10 seconds more than once and it did not melt, and i'm thinking "this stuff is really cool", I feel good about this accomplishment.:p
Can someone familiar with using hobbycnc's board tell me if the 26.7 volts which should give about 37.38v, is good or a little to much for it since i think i saw somewhere that you shouldn't go too close to the 42 volts mentioned on the board.

37.4 volts will work good with it.

thanks joe, this morning voltage dropped by about 1, will monitor this.

I had to rewind this one since there was a bridge between the coil and the chassis, it still gave the voltage despite that but didn't want to take any chances, the new winding has #12 wire which is rated for 9.3 amps max, will have to see how that goes.

Anyone familiar with the HobbyCNC board had any issues with blowing fuses and rectifiers giving more voltage than it should? I keep blowing the 4A supplied fuse that came with my kit, i wonder if it has something to do with my diy tranny? could it be drawing to much amps?

Check it out:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33112

Hi Tajord,

Thought I’d stop in and see how your build is going, and say Tag, your it! I got my jgro up and running last week end. I’m trying out TurboCNC and working out some backlash issues. How much do you have to complete your build?

hey v&b,

haven't heard you in a while, glad to hear you got yours up, i'd really like to see some pix if you can throw me a few, i'm working on the controller and enclosure, made it out of MDF though i'm not really fussy about this, thinking about the heat, but from the test with the fan on, it seems to really circulate air very well, so that might not be a problem, others have done it and said they have no heat issues, will monitor it though, here's a pic of it, don't want to show inside of it till it's done.......:o

Wow, that looks store-bought to me. You do good work.

well i'm glad you like it, initially i really didn't, it just didn't "feel" right, but i think it'll do just fine, i'm a bit of a perfectionist i guess.:)

Hah, wait till you see my electronics box. No you'd better not. I'm not a perfectionist. Pictures posted on my build thread tonight.

Hello Tajord,

The enclosure looks good. Nice to see your still plugging along. I have been taking photos of my build off and on. I planed to but up a build log after I was done, so I should get started. Then I won’t have to hijack your thread. I have tracked down a lot of the slop in my machine and one of the worst parts is the Dremel I used as a spindle. I am working on mounts for an old Craftsman router I have. I’ll let you know when I get my build log started.

I guess you know it's started....

I'm having issues with that transformer, it works but it seems to be pulling in to many amps, causing me to keep blowing fuses unless i put in a 10amp fuse, which causes another problem, the power cord gets hot, which can lead to fire, not risking that, then the other thing is the rectifier output voltage is not correct, it should be x 1.414v but is some where around X 1.6 or so, i got a new transformer and rectifier yesterday, and new fuses of course, will see how these go, stay tuned....

Well i finally got the power issue sorted out with the driver enclosure, just need to get a few connectors and it's test the motor time, also i got my couplings from Surplus Center today, they look a little smaller than i thought they would, i think these are the perfect size, only thing now i think the spiders are a bit loose, should this be so?

I have the same problem with mine, they are ones I got from Enco, I plan to get my unit up and then cut me some new ones with it if these gives a problem.
Dan

I think Jason Marsha has a file for a better fitting spider insert if i remember correctly, i'll have to check on that, i'm not really comfortable with this fit.

Couldn't wait to get this test done after all this time, my babies work, they work, i ran a few (putting in mildly) gcode tests, all went pretty good, next i got to get this enclosure done and finish all the building, it's coming together :D.

Congrats on getting the system running. Its a good feeling. That black box is looking nice too.

Your ststem is looking great, I'm not as far along as you, but I learning from you - I sure like the looks of you box - where did the fan come from that you are using?
Dan

Your ststem is looking great, I'm not as far along as you, but I learning from you - I sure like the looks of you box - where did the fan come from that you are using?
Dan

thanks, the fan is part of the hobbycnc kit which came with the nice grill, but i suppose you can get any from old copiers (these are usually 24volts), cpu's or an old pc power supply (usually 12volts), if you like the box so much i can draw up the plans with dimensions for you or anyone who'd like it, just let me know.

I would like the plans for the box I just got the boards from CNC Hobby, and am using motors from HP Printers, I have been spending more time trying to learn the computer end, as this is my hardest part, I am 72 and in a power chair. I have been building cabnets and trim work for over 50 years and will have no problems there, as I almost have that done. I can no longer use some of my equipment, but do not want to just set and watch TV the rest of my live, so I got a computer two years ago and have learned alot thanks to people like you and others on this site.
I may look in to using a small electric fan that or on some cars for cooling the radiator, some of them are small and would be 12 volts dc.
Dan

Hi Tajord,

How far are you from the sound of a sharp cutting tool msking it's way through some wood?

Hi Tajord,

How far are you from the sound of a sharp cutting tool msking it's way through some wood?

I have to now build the torsion box, and drill holes for the adjustment blocks before i start painting, after that it's the holes to drill in the aluminiun angle, purchase the pipes and start assembly, then tweak time.


I would like the plans for the box I just got the boards from CNC Hobby


drat, i'm trying but can't seem to upload this type of file, i'll try to convert it to another format for you, sorry.

drat, i'm trying but can't seem to upload this type of file, i'll try to convert it to another format for you, sorry.

When you try to upload a file and it doesn't go there is usually a reported error. Do you know what the error is? File size too large maybe? Try to ZIP up the files and attach the ZIP file instead of the DXF's.

Just a thought,

thanks haytay, here's another crack at uploading the file again, it's a zipped this time, let me know if this can help you dan.

Thanks for the plans - I like the way you built the top, with the side peices going down some, that is a supper idea. I hope to be able to use the programs to produce drawning like that someday. I am going to night school this summer, in June to learn the Cad programs, I live 100 miles north of Dallas, Texas, out in the country, and I have to learn from this forum or drive that far for help.
Thanks again for you help.
Dan

tajord,
I noticed in your zip file you included a dwg file. Do you actively use Microstation? I use it at work with Inroads I also have the home use version so I can draw my plans for whatever I want to build around the house.
Your build is coming along nicely, I hope to get the electronics running here in the next few evenings.
DT

No prob dan, i'm glad you like the plans, i hope others find it handy too, i'd been looking for an enclosure like the one attached, but couldn't find any so i decided to make one, and this is what i came up with, i didn't like the way that hobbycnc had their recommended case laid out with all those wires and fuse holders sticking out the front, i believe they should be at the back, that's why mine is like this, only thing i'd like now is a light indicating that power is on.

DeadTom, sorry i'm not using Microstation, i hope you get your electronics sorted out, i enjoyed playing with my motors, it's a great feeling of accomplishment especially if you assembled the board yourself, at one point i was thinking it wouldn't work, so if it didn't, i wouldn't be too disappointed since that's what i expected, but to great joy it did. :D

I am thinking the same on the power light on. I think that you could buy a push botton switch that is green and lights up when on, or maybe two, one green and one red. One for on and one for off, It might even be better to have a key to use when you turn it on, just a idea, buy I may look in to it,
Dan

You know, the idea of a key switch sounds really good against curious onlookers that might want to more than look, i think i'll look into that a little later on.

Ahhh.... It's been a long day, i really worked my butt off today, cut the lawn, clean, took out garbage, clean, rake the lawn, clean, made a bonfire to get rid of a lot of waste wood, then after all this i said i think i deserve to get some jgro time in, so here's the results:

whoopie, i'm an apprentice now, this calls for a celebration, i'll have to ponder on how i'm gonna, anyhow, a couple more pix for yah, here you'll see how i intend to support the pipes on the 60" long X axis, the enclosed unit and the linear bearings, what i need now is a good paint job:

Hey Apprentice,
You are making great progress. I like all the mods you are doing. That's going to be a stout machine. Have you got a plan for inserting the Gantry in between the permanant X rails?

Heck fella, with the quality of work you are doing, you don't need a CNC router. :)

Well only one side will be fixed, the other side will have only one block in the center, so it will kinda be a pivot-fit, even if i have to drill a hole through the side and into the pipe and tap or bolt it.

Thanks for the compliment, problem with good work, it takes time, you've got to love woodwork or you probably won't do it i think, often it can be hardwork, hopefully this jgro will ease a lot of things for me. :D

You sure make me want to put in more time working on mine. It looks like you put in a lot more time on the machine than you did on the jobs around the house. You work makes mine look like a kid playing around with dad's tools.
Dan

Today wasn't so bad, i managed to get all the parts to be painted in yellow done, i think they came out well for the most part, i am extremely relieved that i got this part over with, soon i can start assembly and tweak, can't wait:

Here's a shot of the other side showing the center support block for the x axis pipe, if the pipe is too loose against the bearings i'll place a bolt in there that i can tighten to adjust it to the desired/necessary position and i'll also run about two threaded rods from one side to the next and bolted each end to eliminate any possible flexing outwards.

Looking good.

Jason

HEY MAN I like that color, I'm painting mine blue, but I think that I'll go back and two-tone mine.

Your is looking great, keep up the good work.

Dan

Wow, is comingalong nicely. Soon you'll be on that Joe2006.
And about that yard work, I am up to my knees in snow....but it's fading fast. Thank goodness...

Thanks for all the positive comments guys, the joe2006 is a high possiblilty, maybe even modify it, i kinda dislike copying things exactly the same, my ultimate goal eventually will be a 4' x 4' steel frame machine, but that's in the not so near future, got me a hitachi 2 1/4hp router today, i love this little thing, it's extremely quiet on the lowest speed, only thing is that it's diameter is 1/4" smaller than the Proter Cable router i initially planned on using, look at pic #3, so i'll have to put some sort of band around it so i can tighten it, maybe be a good thing, might help reduce that vibration noise from the router to the wooden body of the machine, i do believe i'd be able to mill aluminium with this router at the lowest speed, and knowing myself, i'll try it, with EXTREME CAUTION of course, after all, it's a good way to find out :o.

The Machine is looking real good so far.

Joe

You mike try going by a tire shop and getting a old inter-tube - I use them around my shop for lots of things. and I bet if you cut a piece to go around that small one that would work for you.
Dan

Maybe one of those thin pulley belts might do the trick, the ones you find in vehicle engines, i know a mechanic that should have some knocking around, cut it and bond it to the inside of the router holder, i think innner tube will be too thin.

Can anyone tell me how you set up your router, or what is required to power on and off the router when a machining sequence starts and end respectively

I made up a two outlet box with solid state relays that can be switched on and off by the PC. So I could plug in my spindle and coolant or vacuum. Then the G-code can turn them on and off.

I was thinking the same exact thing with two outlets for router and vacuum and i figured a relay was used, thing is, i don't know where or how to attach it to the pc, driver or whatever, very limited knowledge in that area.:o

Tajord; - I am in the same boat as you, I would like to be able to get mine set up to controll by my PC - maybe Volts and Bolts will draw us a picture and tell us the parts we need and how to do it.

Dan

I think I made up schematic when I built it…. Let me look for it, if I can’t find it I’ll draw a new one up and do pics of the one I made….

thank, that'll be great, reviewing my build it seems like i've been constructing my machine in the reverse direction most people have done their's, well it was mostly due to circumstances beyond my control, anyhow, it's nearly there, here's a pic of my adjustment blocks, i think the black goes really great with the yellow.

SSR Box

Ok, this is the info that Tjord and Dan dimock asked about I may repost this in my thread. I recommend you do a little research on the net to find the right SSR for your needs. Use the info at your own risk. If you aren’t electrically inclined find someone who is….Please.

Thanks for the information, I will put this to work.
Dan

I think the yellow with black accents will look great. Like a big Yellow jacket buzzing out parts…..Buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.

paint is nice.

this makes me want to start mine. I have no money then, and my uncle wants to change the plans around to HIS needs (real cnc parts mainly)

A friend and former workmate of mine went by me tonight and saw my jgro partially set up and asked what it was, i told him guess, then he asked if it was a cnc (seeing that we have one there where i used to work he probably assumed this based on the fact it didn't look like furniture and i worked operating it), i smiled, he was quite surprised and amazed and went on about it for a little while, joke to me was as he inspected and inspected, he looked at the adjustment blocks and asked me if i bought them.

Now my machine's nearing completion, the Pc's harddrive just went dead, it sounds like a ball bearing is in there, i heard that sound years ago with one i had, this from my experience screams "BUY A NEW DRIVE", bummer.:mad:

May I offer my condolences on the demise of your hard drive…

Ok i found me a 40 Gig drive i forgot i had laying around, i installed linux on it with a partition, hoping to give EMC2 a try, i heard it's good, then i'll reinstall Windows on the other side, still playing with Mach 3 and NC Plot software, will know soon if it'll work, this probably happened for the best, the old drive was 10 Gig and i couldn't get it partitioned, hope this one holds out.

Jordan, good luck with fixing the putter stuff.

Progress is slow lately, i've just been too busy lately, working saturdays and sundays till 7pm isn't really helping with jgro time either, managed to get some 60" pipe for the long axis, haven't found anything yet that looks good enough and cheap enough for the other axis's:confused: .

I got the gantry in place, it took a little while by managed to get it rolling pretty good, i couldn't resist playing with it afterwards, like a kid with a new toy :D, tell me, exactly on your guys gantries are you getting flex, trying to find out what to expect and if possible eliminate it before hand, i don't think i have any thus far, but not expecting to not get any, but would be great if i had next to none at all.

almost forgot, windows is back on, the drive's up and running now, even did motor testing to make sure, it's cool.

Yes, I have some gantry flex but it's negligable. My biggest prob. is linear bearing alignment, but it's me.

For details on adjusting the linear bearings check the below thread, read post #65, i tried this and it seemed to have worked out well, hope it helps you out:

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6054&page=6

I think the main reason that many get gantry flex maybe is that the long rails on the y axis (my x) are unsupported, that's my theory, it's one of the reasons i considered support for mine like i did, seems to have helped, here's a closer look at how i approached this, the two threaded rods through the sides keeps them from bowing outwards and there is a block of wood under the center pipe support to eliminate downward sag, but it's not done yet, after i complete the other axis's (i know this is not spelt right), i'll be able to make a final analysis, hope this helps anyone:

hmm that is a great idea. I may work that into my build, which I hope to start this weekend.

Well good luck on starting, i can't wait to see your build, i see you're half my age and i think this will be a really great project for you, i bet it'll be very satisfying after you get it done, anything help i can offer just ask.

Good luck.

These pics are for the sake of anyone who may be interested in reducing threaded rods to fit their couplings, this is my approach, well at least i picked up the idea from a pic i found on the net somewhere, i don't remember (pic #1), i tried using my router but the problem was that the grinding wheel wore down too quickly, (that's what happens when you buy cheap stuff), i then turned to my home-made spindle sander (pic #2, and yes the metal part is the top of an old stepper i disassembled, that was before i knew they'd lose about half it's torque when you did this, shame on me), this did the trick, and pic #3 show the results.

Now that’s a prime example of “Were there’s a will, theirs a way”

Jordan,
Thanks for showing those 'how-to' pics of the poor-man lathe. That's my kind of tooling. The pics indicate you did a great job.

My next improvement is to add stepper motor mounts. Right now my motors are screwed directly into the cnc frame. So I don't have room for the love-joy and bearings. The 4-legged approach is the only easy solution to come to mind. Have you done that design yet? Pardon the rambling.

Now that’s a prime example of “Were there’s a will, theirs a way”

yet betcha, it sure beats paying a guy for turning them, plus i'm gonna do it exactly how i need them, it's really interesting how people here almost always want to know what you need stuff for or done for.


Right now my motors are screwed directly into the cnc frame. So I don't have room for the love-joy and bearings. The 4-legged approach is the only easy solution to come to mind. Have you done that design yet?


I'm gonna be using the four legged approach, i'm just waiting on a favor to be completed then i'd be ready to go, i heard the reason most do it this way is because it's less stress on the stepper bearings than if they're connected directly to the frame because of the vigorous "whipping" present at higher rpm's, sounds logical to me.

Hey guys, i'm still here, progress is agonisingly slow, made little lately, got a friend to cut me some bearing mounts (the favor i was waiting on), and i cut and drilled the AB nuts & Anti-whip block, i now realize that i have to figure out how to mount the motors without it turning out looking too "tacky", i have an idea i like but that might require uses of a cnc, maybe i'll just have to use the "tacky" approach first then use the machine to modify itself, what the hay.

Here's a little pic of the recently cut parts:

I managed to get my mounts done without the use of a cnc, instead it was a tablesaw, router table and a drill press (note i don't own a drill press), but i think they didn't come out too bad and they seem sturdier than i thought they would.

I am hopeful that next week this thing will be done, it's been dragging lately as a result of priority issues, i now need 7 feet of pipe for the x & y axiis, (12) 3/16" bolts to mount the motors and i have to replace the y axis leadscrew that i accidently cut too short, here's a couple pix of the mounts:

Jordan,
You did good. Nice job with all the plastic cutting. I'll bet the y axis lead screw will work just fine even though its a little short. Its pretty short so being unsupported will probably be ok.

Hey...Great looking standoff's. What material did you use to make them? I was thinking of using some thick plastic cutting boards, they are on sale this week at a local hardware store. I believe they are just shy of 1/2", is this thick enough to make them out of?

Thanks,
Robin

Jordan:

Will you post the size of those mounts, They look taller than what I am working on.

Thanks
Dan

Hey...Great looking standoff's. What material did you use to make them? I was thinking of using some thick plastic cutting boards, they are on sale this week at a local hardware store. I believe they are just shy of 1/2", is this thick enough to make them out of?



Actually the material i used is cutting board, and it's also just shy of 1/2", so you are on the right path, just hope the material you get machines the way mine did, had no melting issues at all.


Jordan:

Will you post the size of those mounts, They look taller than what I am working on.

Thanks
Dan


Measurements for the mounts are 2 7/8" high X 2 3/8" wide, for the inside cut-out i do remember it being 5/8" all around the outside.

Here's a rough idea how they look:

It looks like i'm on the home stretch now, i got all the parts i need, well except for about two or three 3/8" nuts to keep in the z axis leadscrew which i'll most likely get today, i wanted to get more cable for my steppers but could not find any like hobbycnc's, i had to settle for a 8 core heavy speaker wire, (which was 9 core btw) i got about 8 yards of this stuff, not sure if i'll use it or where i'll use it if i do, but it has the length i need, you can see it beside a 3/8" threaded rod so you can get and idea on the actual size of it and also a little peak at my progress, i'm getting there.

Jordan, How many wires do you need in the bundle for each motor? 8 wires really?

With the hobbycnc motors they have 8 wires but only require six core cable as two pairs of wires join as common on the motors and the board has six terminals, so with this cable i'll only be using what i need, if i do end up using it that is.

:banana: :banana: :banana: it's finally running, it took over four months but it's assembled and working, just a few issues to sort out now and i'll be cutting like crazy, i did the roadrunner test last night, it came out great, boy i didn't think these little motors and the x axis leadscrew could make a machine like this move about like that, i see why others bolt it to a sturdy table.

Main issue i am concerned with now is that the machine starts/homes at the foot/end of the table, i'd prefer it the other end, but i think that's just a matter of just changing wires around, i've been testing speeds but i'm not going to disclose them as yet as i haven't cut anything but air to tell if i'm getting any issues with losing steps etc.

Well that's it for now, i'll keep you guys updated and post some pix soon, later on i'll probably give you a video or two, but i have to borrow a camera for that from a friend, anyhow i'm off, i probably blabbed on too much, laters.

Jordan,
Congrats on getting the machine up and running. Its a special day the first time you get machine movement.

There's a Mach3 software switch that will turn your plus direction around. You shouldn't have to change the wires.

How fast are you jogging? Don't be in a hurry to make it go fast.

That is fantastic that you got your machine running...Keep at it and you will have it purring like a kitten.

Robin

Good for you. I am still about a month away.

Dan

Thanks guys, it indeeds feels like a special day, i didn't know about the "switch" in mach 3, i got to check that one out, as for jogging, if i'm correct it think it's about 75ipm, i realize that you get different results when you play around with the accel rate, on my y axis, anything above 5 causes a stall every once in a while, but i think it has something to do with the leadscrew.

X axis whips like crazy as speeds increases, i'm using 3/16" threaded rod with 16tpi, acme rods would really do me wonders, but i'm scared of ordering them in fear of them getting bent, i have all axiis running at 55ipm, which wasn't bad in testing, but that's not a certain figure till i start cutting anything, i'm extremely pleased with my z axis though, it sings, i can probably run that at 75ipm with no probs.

Anyhow, i'll keep you all posted on how things progress.

Need pics and video!!!!

PLEASE:rainfro: :rainfro: :rainfro:

Robin

Jordan,

Congratulations on breathing life into your jgro! I say we all raise our glasses to Jordan’s success. :cheers: Soon you will be cutting parts to improve you machine and as time goes by parts for a bigger stronger faster machine, (It’s like horsepower, you can’t have too much) Enjoy!

here's the current status of my machine, please excuse the background, it's only a temporary location, the machine seems to be working very well all to that bit annoying 3/8" threaded rod, i'll be buying some 1/2" 13 soon, which should give me greater speed and reduced whipping, presently i'm cutting at 55ipm not that anything is wrong with that speed, but it won't hurt to have a little more.

Also attached is my first actually cut (# 1), this will be hung up in rememberance of my first cnc, and another piece just for the fun of it. I have now to install limit switches and tidy up the cables, as it was said before, it seems it is never finished.

P.S. I found the switch in mach three to reverse the motors, not it's going the way i want it too, thanks Dave.

Nice build! I see you used a router clamp design like the Joe2006, I've been thinking about doing that to kermit.....

Damn, you're right- they ARE never finished.

Nice build! I see you used a router clamp design like the Joe2006, I've been thinking about doing that to kermit.....

Damn, you're right- they ARE never finished.

Thats the beauty of this forum, everyone trys to contribute Ideas to help improve on an already designed system, We all learn something for sure, no one know everything, I can testify to that myself.... LOL :idea:

Joe

No doubt, before i found this site i looked and looked, i found a few good ones, but nothing from what i've seen compares to what i've learnt here since i became a member, there's always someone willing to lend and ear to a fellow in need, good thing is, most of us here usually have strengths in a required skill that can assist someone weak in that area, for example ger21, he's really knowledgable about a lot of this stuff, i must say, a lot of you all have really knowledged me with your contribution to the zone.

It's really shocking the amount of dust this thing can generate, it's clearly evident by the pix here, i've set up the cutting area now, about 45" x 14", some slotted mdf i had lying around and a couple clamps, two strips of plywood acting as a fence to keep wood to cut aligned correctly and i used some scrap 3/16" ply to act as spoil board to protect the slotted mdf from damage, this works pretty well i'd say.

Also, another test cut to see how the machine performs, already i'm wanting more speed, but it performs fairly well i must say, just trying to figure out now what next to cut, what next to cut.

You are RIGHT on the money when you talk about the help you get here. I talk and read about CNC Machines for two years and now, I too am building one. I am 72 and in a power chair but thanks to the help here I am on my way.
I still love you paint job, I was using blue but I have got to use some yellow and black some place.
All so - What software are you using, this is the area where I know I am going to have to have help.
Again, your is looking great, I am looking forward to the day I can cut something on mine.
Dan

Jordan, your machine came out great!

hey thanks VB, i'm happy with it, just can't seem to get enough speed, just me being greedy :D, but all in all it's not too bad, i've been cutting at 60ipm lately, but i'm still shooting for some more, i had a bit of backlash in my x axis that i sorted out earlier tonight, but now i got a bit in my z, i'll get to that soon, what lead me to this was after an engraving i did came out rather bumpy as seen below, I wasn't pleased with this:

You are RIGHT on the money when you talk about the help you get here. I talk and read about CNC Machines for two years and now, I too am building one. I am 72 and in a power chair but thanks to the help here I am on my way.
I still love you paint job, I was using blue but I have got to use some yellow and black some place.
All so - What software are you using, this is the area where I know I am going to have to have help.
Again, your is looking great, I am looking forward to the day I can cut something on mine.
Dan

Sorry about the wait, i really admire you for your will to do this, it's quite a challenge to take on a diy project like this, but heck it's fun isn't it, i think the paint job came out nicely myself, I was thinking the white would look odd, but it has enough of the cutting board stuff (IMO) to somewhat blend back in, i need to get rid of most of the dust this thing generates, i'll be working on that as soon as i figure out how to make the dust collector look neat and easily removable at the same time.

As far as software goes, there are a bit of demo software out there, for cad i tried Intellicad from http://www.cadopia.com other's call it an autocad clone, it's very similar, you can get an evaluation copy from the site, check it out, other than that i'm just using ncplot & mach3/quantum demos, i'll soon have to decide soon as these are not gonna hold out forever

Thanks for the information - I am looking at a program, called Quickstep, you may want to look at it. Together with the Ace converter I think it will be easy to use.

Thanks also, for the drive that you have given me, I know I am going to get mine done before long.

Dan

hey dan, i checked out the software, seems ok, but tell me, haven't you tried mach software as yet? i guess since that's what i've been exposed to it's kinda hard to pull away from with the features and support it has, it gives quite a few options though i still have a bit more to learn about it, apart from ncplot, vcarvepro is amazing software, try the demo, i can run the sample files, but till i purchase the full mach software i'm still limited to 1000 lines of gcode, so these are my present goals to save towards.

hey guys, now this is not really connected to this thread, but i just had to share with you what i just saw in another thread, it's called EZ Router, just take a look at the speed of this thing, kinda reminds me of mechmate:

http://www.ez-router.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=3

I am going to have someone to make a video of mine and play if in fast forward, if I ever get it build.

I know what I'll do - but a lottery ticket an pray.

Dan

well that's a thought, speaking of which, i made a video of my jgro doing a test run, i'll be uploading it as soon as i get it sorted, i realise there is still a little play on the machine, seems like one or two bearings are not making full contact on the pipes, that is just not going to do for me, and i have not as yet made my dust collector, though this has to wait cause i moved jgro to a different location onto it's base, so as a result i had to disconnect the motors and with having to move the driver box to an accessible location, the wires are too short now, guess i'm gonna be using that new wire after all.

hey guys check this out, it's a limited time offer:

3 Axis Package
With (3) 305oz-in Steppers
$270USD + $16 USA S/H
Limited Time pricing!

http://www.hobbycnc.com/hcncpropkg.php

hey guys check this out, it's a limited time offer:

3 Axis Package
With (3) 305oz-in Steppers
$270USD + $16 USA S/H
Limited Time pricing!

http://www.hobbycnc.com/hcncpropkg.php

Tajord - thanks for the info. That's just the kick that I needed to start this project... ordered my 3 axis kit from HobbyCnc last night!

Don

No prob db, just drop me a line when you get it up and let me know how good it works, just want to know if it'll be an option if or when i decide to purchase another kit.

Does anyone know of free software that i can convert a video saved as a dvd to avi or compatible software, i don't think it makes sense to buy that kind of software just to do this once, i have other software to purchase you know.:)

Thanks in advance.

Jordan,
I paid $59 for Movie Maker Pro 11. It's awesome software. It slices and dices 16 parallel tracks. No amature software comes close to these capabilities. I can drag a DVD vid file into it with no problem. I also use the Microsoft Movie Maker (comes with xp) to compress the video for youtube.com. Add music, text, slow motion, and all the trimmings. http://youtube.com/watch?v=vVOE6HI9Ag0

Sorry I can't help with the free stuff. If you have microsoft movie maker, it might do the job for you.

I have movie maker but for some reason it won't show the contents of the disk, i can hear stuff, but can't see anything, probably need codecs or something

You got it. I have similar issues with DVDs made from my TIVO player. Newer computers have new codecs and don't have the problem.

I have movie maker but for some reason it won't show the contents of the disk, i can hear stuff, but can't see anything, probably need codecs or something

Does anyone know of free software that i can convert a video saved as a dvd to avi or compatible software, i don't think it makes sense to buy that kind of software just to do this once, i have other software to purchase you know.:)

Thanks in advance.

My best advice is videohelp.com the best infomative and helpful site I have come across, simply go there and do a search for dvd to avi and you will have a bazillion hits. I just did and there are 51000 hit about dvd to avi.

Edit, I just did a quick snoop through and saw in the tools section under "dvd to avi/divx/xvid" there are 18 proggies, of which 13 are labeled as freeware or free software.

Hope that helps, there are also plenty of tuts on there if you need them.

For those of you who might think i've dropped off the face of the earth, i'm still here, here's just a little clip showing how the machine is working, i got a longer vid, but it's about 8meg, i'll probably have to set up a youtube account or something.

Jason,
Youtube will take a 100 meg file and up to 10 minutes of duration. Its pretty painless to setup and you won't regret the time to do that.

Good vid. Thanks for sharing.

Glad to see you got the jgro up and cutting!

Nice Job - I love it

Dan

Thanks guys, it's sweet to actually own one of these things, it has made some great enhancements to my work, and has saved me a lot of "jigsaw" work which would've been time consuming and nowhere near the accuracy that i get with this baby, i still got a few issues to deal with including the dust collector, only reason i have not made it as yet is that i haven't found a way to mount it so that it can be easily removed, and to this day i have not installed my limit switches, shame on me, but all in good time.

And to silentreaper, i checked out that site, which is how i managed to get the video converted, unfortunately i can't even remember which program it was that i used, but the trick was done, thanks dude, and wow dave, 100 meg? not bad

Tajord,
Limit switches? I worried about them greatly...at first. I have them, but I disconnected them due to weird behavior. Now I run free of any limits. No shame here. If my machine runs away, well, where's it going to go. The power of my 200 in-oz steppers will not harm the machine or even me.

If you are nearby, you can hit the escape key (mach3) to stop any runaway.

I agree, the 200 oz motors are not strong enough to do anymajor damage to this machine as i have had some runaway myself, but i want to set them up for homing too.

Btw, i thought you were using the 4250z motors.

Good memory. yes I have the 425'ers but I run only 24 volts PS, so my speeds and power are similar to the HobbyCNC's 200 with 36 volts. I know that for a fact because my buddy in town has the Hobbycnc 200 with a 36volt PS. He runs at the same speed as I.

I do worry about his system though because his motors are very hot to the touch. With the kind of heat he's seeing, the magnets might deteriorate over time. I can't say that will happen for sure, but when discussing the subject of heat with Dave at HobbyCNC, he was very clear that heat kills motors. (I have HobbyCNC 127 in-oz motor for my foamcutter).

but when discussing the subject of heat with Dave at HobbyCNC, he was very clear that heat kills motors.

this is a little unsettling, as i heard steppers are supposed to run "hot", mine tend to get hot after a little while running, as far as i've read this is normal, i'm using a 24volt 10amp transformer outputting about 31volts or so last i checked.

I'm not an expert. How long can you hold your hand on your motors be experiencing discomfort and pain? Indefinately..then no problem.

5 seconds...then problems. 20 seconds...I don't know.

On mine, I can hold indefinately. They get warm, but not hot.

I did a run the other day, i realized that it takes a while for my steppers to get hot, didn't time it, but i guess that maybe because sometimes they can go up to about 960rpm with rapids, but then @ 16 revolutions per inch what do i expect, that maybe my problem.

I'll upgrade it eventually with at least 1/2" 10 acme rod, but more hopeful 1/2" 8 2 start.

I haven’t chatted with you guy’s in a wile.

On the Hot Motor topic.

I use to work for a company that made equipment for wafer and die handling (as in integrated circuits) and we ran our steppers HOT! Like raise a blister hot. 75volt, 10 amp, and it made for some snappy performance. However we did use muffin fans to move air through the equipment. I never noted diminished performance on the systems. But I’ll agree too much heat is probably not a good thing. The question is what is too hot. Anyone try measuring the temp on there steppers? ( Maybe we should start a new thread on this topic)

V&B,
That's some interesting info. I'd be interested in a thread about stepper motor heat too. Let me know if you start one up.
Dave

I too vote for that thread, i think lots would be interested in this topic as would i, keep me posted if you do.

I am usinr some bit that I got from this guy that are i/8 and amaller that are great so I wanted to pass it on.

You can find his store at

http:Vendio.com/Monanent/store.html

His name is J. P. Morgan an you can e-mail him at

ToolsAndTunes@Juno.com

He runs items on E-Bay every Friday for three day and if you e-mail him he will give you the link.

Dan

try

http://Vendio.com/Moranent/store.html

if this dont work-e-mail him.
Dan

My new thread on motor heating is just getting warmed up, stop in and leave a comment if you will.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=341085#post341085

I'm not an expert. How long can you hold your hand on your motors be experiencing discomfort and pain? Indefinately..then no problem.

5 seconds...then problems. 20 seconds...I don't know.

On mine, I can hold indefinately. They get warm, but not hot.

After about 20-30 min of running, about 5 seconds, this can not be good at all, i got to test the vref's again, i was using a surge protector on the driver box, i had some issues with the motors "and router" dying down on me while doing a cut, seemed like some kind of power depletion problem, so i took it off, ran it direct and tried again, no dying down but now the steppers seem to get hotter than they used to, so i'm kinda hoping checking the vref's will tell me i'm a bit over the maximum rated current since that's the only logical assumption that i can come up with, if not "then" i'll be totally puzzled.

Jordan,
Go here for more info on motor heat. Someone suggested going to Harbor Freight and buying a digital laser temp gage. They are cheap. Measure your temps.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=341085#post341085
Here's more info on motor temps.
Dave

Well i dug a little and found this dusty old thread amongst all the clutter, my jgro has not been using that much lately as a result of it not having it's own dedicated PC, the former old girl finally choked and keeled over, as a result i have to use the main PC now and then, transferring the tower to and from the machine, not liking it at all, anyways, here's my new found interest, PCB's, here's my first try at it, using the much talked about EAGLE and pcb-gcode, got linux's EMC to work also, tedious sometimes but fun learning these new programs.

My goal being diy stepper driver boards as i have quite a few copier motors about (amongst other things) and if i can learn to drive then i can make me another cnc (or a few, lol), mainly for my new hobby, take a gander:

Clearly the PCB route shows my surface not being as level as it shoud, time for resurfacing, but hey, it feels great seeing all my efforts so far paid of, right now i'm working on a simple 3 axis driver based on the obsolete UCN5804B chip, which i occasionally see around, i love gaining knowledge on how to make things work. :D

Those look like the same unipolar motors I myself scrounged, they work well with the PMinMO 3-axis board I built (http://pminmo.com/3axis/3axis.htm). Of course, I'm driving them at 24v, so I have some big ballast resistors right now. I never got around to building the chopper for them.... <sigh>

That looks like lots of fun, cutting PCBs. KEep posting your success.