Hello people.
Since I registered me att CNC Zone for a while ago I`ve been surfing around on this forum reading about CNC routers. And I`ve now decided to build my own CNC router. But as you know, there are several different models to build. JGRO, Solsylvia, Joe`s CNC model etc.

I think the biggest Solsylvia table is interessting, that`s beacuse I don`t want a table that is smaler than that. What do you think? Are there DIY table att the same sice, that are better?

What do you think about this setup?

-Solsylvia table (the biggest one)
-Xylotex 3 axis system kit
-Mach 3 controller

Since I live in Norway in Europe, ordering from Xylotex can be a problem. But since I have an american adresse throu a norwegian company, i don`t think it would be any problem with the ordering.

But the Solsylvia is in US values, an here in Norway we use Metric values. Will this make the building of the Solsylvia much harder?

So to all of you that have build one CNC router or more, give me some advice. It will be very helpfull to me:)

I built the Sosylva 25x37 table. I was a complete newbie (am a little better now) when I started and I must say the instructions were simple and to the T. I did not have any problems. Each part is layed out step by step with many pictures. Don't know how the manual could be any easier and again, I didn't know anything. Takes a little while but if you take it one step at a time, it finally all comes together. Mine is very slow but is precise. Again, it being slow is probably because I don't know enough to get the speed out of it. I think this is a good machine to start with. I have not had it very long and already looking to build a larger and faster machine.

kosymailman: Sounds good, a good manual is very importaint! You are planing to build a bigger one, will you use the Sosylva table as a modell or are you planning a completely new design? What stepper motor, drivers, controller and software do you use?

Anyone other here that have the same problem with the Sosylva, that it`s very slow? Do anyone know how to deal with that problem?

I am trying to use Joes 2006 model but am stuck on cutting out the parts. Have most of the hardware but theres not a manual to go by like the Sosylva. Have to do more figuring and thats my problem. I am using the Xylotex 269 stepper motor kit. Software I use is Vcarve Pro and Mach3. As far as the speed goes, I can jog around the table around 40-50 in. per minute but when I run a program, the most I can get is 15 in. per minute. Anything over that, I start losing steps, so I don't think it is really the machine, just some settings I have wrong.

Hi,
Im in Ireland and am going to build the Solsylva.

Solsylva Manual:
The manual and instructions are excellent. I can't say any more than that. They are clear and step by step, although I am just finishing my electronics and have'nt started on the actual solsylva machine yet. I do think I may have some minor problems with getting parts as per the manual, because in Europe they have different names and dimensions. But differently named parts is a problem we would probably suffer with most designs on the web, as it seems the Americans are much more into DIY routers than us Europeans. So ignoring the headache of sorting parts, at least with the solsylva machine you have good clear instructions and you can contact David Steel if you need help after buying the plans. I bought the plans in the hope that if I didn't use them, they would at least help me understand whats involved better, and they did that easily. They are very good value.

Electronics:
I originally wanted the Xylotex System but as you know they are not RoHS compliant and can't ship to the EU. You mentioned that you can get around this with a business address in the US, but be careful in the unlikely event that customs opens the package and slaps a hefty fine on your business for illegal imports! :eek: I ended up getting the HCNC kit, but obviously thats a lot more work, as you have to put it together. However, that has also helped my learning curve about cnc routers.

Software:
I can only really tell you what Im going to use and try to answer any questions then. What software you use is dependant upon your application. In my case I hope to carve signs and gates. (Im building another larger router later :) )

I have a variety of programs overall Im going to use:

1) Silo 3D to create 3D designs. http://www.nevercenter.com/
2) A program to create 2D designs. (Maybe CorelDraw)
3) Inkscape to convert 2D drawings into 'vectors'. http://www.inkscape.org/
4) A CAM program to generate toolpaths for my 3D designs. (Undecided - But there are many out there....BOBCAD/CAM...Rhino....etc etc)
5) VectorArt3D to buy and use 3D designs. http://www.vectorart3d.com/
6) VCarvePro to create carvings and output G'Code. http://www.vectric.com/WebSite/Vectric/vcp/vcp_index.htm
7) Mach3 to actually drive the machine using the G-Code. http://www.machsupport.com/

Essentially,
You need a design to cut.
It has to be made up of 'vectors', not 'pixels'.
You need to turn it into toolpaths.
You need to save the toolpaths in a format that your driver software can read.
You need software to then read that and drive the machine.

I am trying to use Joes 2006 model but am stuck on cutting out the parts. Have most of the hardware but theres not a manual to go by like the Sosylva. Have to do more figuring and thats my problem. I am using the Xylotex 269 stepper motor kit. Software I use is Vcarve Pro and Mach3. As far as the speed goes, I can jog around the table around 40-50 in. per minute but when I run a program, the most I can get is 15 in. per minute. Anything over that, I start losing steps, so I don't think it is really the machine, just some settings I have wrong.

If you use the e-drawings, you can look at the individual assemblies, and rt mouse on parts/ torsion box skins and make them transparent, then you can see in detail how the parts fit inside.

Joe, I appreciate the tip. Now that's what I call - neat. This tip really helps. Like I said, if it's not in black and white I have problems.

thanks again

kosymailman: How long time did you use to build the Sosylva 25x37 table?

Hmm, maybee it`s bether for me to buy a HCNC kit instead of the Xylotex System? Then I don`t have to risk anything. But does the HCNC kit have powerfull enough motors for the Sosylva 25x37 table? HCNC have 200oz motors and Xylotex 269oz motors. And where do I buy HCNC kit?

Or maybee there is a bether kit I can use for the Sosylva?

To see whats involved in the HCNC kit before you buy see this thread:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25504
Unlike the Xylotex, its not 'plug and play'.
You could buy it from here: http://www.hobbycnc.com/

Yes the 200oz/in motors are fine. Some people have used smaller on the Solsylva table like the 128oz/in motors. For info on the Solsylva Plans see this thread:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21411
Your motor size will affect your final running speeds, also dependant upon other factors such as you TPI on your lead screws.

If you want a 'better' kit you can go to the other end of the scale and buy a gecko drive from http://www.geckodrive.com/. You could put huge 1200oz/in motors on it :eek: but why would you need them? Also if you want a better motor setup your going to pay for it. But it also depends upon what material you want to cut.

If you want to route a lot of metal then the wood construction Solsylva probably wont be ridgid enough. Also you will want more torque in your motors if working on metal, and in addition to changing your motors to a higher oz/in you will want lead screws with a smaller (I think!) TPI.

People seem to use Gecko drives on large and heavy, metal built, industrial quality machines. Although Im sure there are some people using the HCNC and Xylotex kits on large machines without any problem. The HCNC kit is limited to 3Amps per motor, so if you want huge motors that take more than 3Amps each it wont run them at their full potential. I don't know about limits on Xylotex or others.

Hope this helps somehow. :)

It probably took me less than a month working a hour here and a couple of hours there. I keep seeing where people wire their motors up wrong and burn them up. The Xylotex kit was very simple. Had a diagram showing where each color wire plugged in on the board. Simple - just like I like it. I think you have to do some soldering on the Hobby kit. Mine has no problems running the router, I just can't get the speed I want and again that's just probably my fault.

Thanks for all the answers guys!:) It looks like I`m going for the Hobby CNC 200oz kit. But the HCNC 3-axis kit doesn`t include transformer. But sinze I live in Norway, I must have a 230v transformer. I`ve been searching the forum for info, but I can`t find any. Do anyone of you know where I can get a 230v transformer for the HCNC 3-axis 200oz. kit?

kosymailman: What kind of tools did you use when you built the Sosylvia table? Any special tools, or just regular tools?

diarmaid: Did you use allot of time putting the HCNC kit together? I`ve builded a engine management before (Megasquirt), so I don`t think the soldering will bee a problem for mee. But are there other things with the HCNC kit that takes allot of time?

Nothing special, just table saw, drill press, portable bandsaw(to cut threaded rods & emt). One of the best things I found that helped me was using the brass bars as seen on The Router Workshop. They sure helped me measuring and marking precisely. I happened to have 2 sets of the bars so I could stack them to measure or mark up to 2 inches if needed. Much more accurate than using a metal ruler like I started. The cheapest place I have seen them is Hartville (http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11676).

Hi, I definitly recommend the david steele machine for your first machine. Im about 75% done with mine. Ive been working on it for about Three weeks. It gets more exciting the further you get. I envy you guys who have finished your machine. A drill press definitly makes it go together faster and more accurate. I hope to work my way up to joes machine in the future. Nice work Joe!! :)

Hello. I have now recived my CNC router plans from David Steele, and also read some of it. Since we don`t use the same name and specs on materials in Norway, I have some questions about the different materials used in the machine.

The EMT conduit, what kind of material are they made in? regular steel?

Is "Tempered Hardbord" some kind of plywood? Can someone give me a short description on this material?

Thanks for al the answers so far!:)

Hi sperstad,

Sorry for the delayed response. If you follow the link to my thread about "My HobbyCNC Pro Package Step by Step" you will see how Im going with it and hopefully it may help you too http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25504
. Its not finished yet, but that is because I had problems with the soldering which resulted in having to repeatadly wait for replacement parts. But this was due to my inexperience, if you've soldered before you should be fine. It could probably be done inside a few hours.

EMT conduit is 'Electrical Mechanical Tubing'. Its used by electricians to run wires inside of. I'll try to post a pic of some for you tomorrow. You should get it in any hardware store, electrical supply shop, or builders suppliers.

Tempered Hardboard is just like regular Hardboard (Also known as HDF or High Density Fibreboard) except it is tempered by adding moisture resistant solvents during the manufacturing process. This results in it being more resistant to swelling/shrinkage/bending due to moisture. When I looked for it my building material supplier had never heard of it in Ireland, but it's not a big deal. A lot of people used various materials from Oak to Aluminium to build their machine. Im going to use plain old MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard).

Have you seen this thread about the Solsylva machine:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21411

Also we started this thread related to European parts suppliers. Please feel free to add to it.
I also had trouble finding an appropriate transformer for 220V mains. The one I bought off e-bay which works perfect is included in this thread and my HCNC one mentioned above.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24716

Here is the e-bay seller I bought my transformer from:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/KEMPSTONS-FOR-FUSES-AND-CONTROLS_Transformers_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZ1QQfsubZ7QQftidZ2QQtZkm

I bought one that said "240/24V 500VA" but that doesn't seem to be there now, but not to worry, when I received it I found that it can be wired for various inputs and outputs so I imagine that any one rated for the correct VA will be fine. Just e-mail the seller to double check. I know mine can be set for 220/240/110/120/440 V inputs, among others.

Hi again,

Below is shown two pics of what is (I think!) EMT. If its not EMT then Im using it anyway because I've bought it now!! :)

Looks kinda shiny for emt, but very well could be.

Hi, I was reading through this thread and was thinking of building a solsylvo kit. Then someone mentioned Joe's kit(?). Where can I find a picture or website to see one? Also, what about the JGRO one?

Thanks from a Newbie

I have built the JGRO. You can see some pictures of it on my web site:
cnc.hobby-site.com/cnc.html .

Thunterman

"Joe" and "JGRO" are the same person and its the same kit. :)

"Joe" and "JGRO" are the same person and its the same kit. :)

two differente people, two different machines.

Hey Joe(just got a flashback of Jimi Hendrix), I was following a thread where someone bought a kit from you?

How can I see it? Do you have a website? What's the cost and what comes in a kit?

Thanks
Pookie

Oops! I apologise. But JGRO's first name is also 'Joe'....:)

Hey Joe(just got a flashback of Jimi Hendrix), I was following a thread where someone bought a kit from you?

How can I see it? Do you have a website? What's the cost and what comes in a kit?

Thanks
Pookie

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=209

a few here as well as mine.

Thanks for the answers. Tomorrow I will go shopping for some parts for the table. But I have one question. For the table there is used 2x4, 1x4 and 1x6 Lumber. Is this measurements in inches?

The Sosylva - inches

Yup inches. 1inch = 25.4mm

For the table there is used 2x4, 1x4 and 1x6 Lumber. Is this measurements in inches?
Well, sort of. In the U.S., though, a 2x4 is actually 1.5 x 3.5 inches, a 1 x 6 is .75 x 5.5 inches, etc.

Well, sort of. In the U.S., though, a 2x4 is actually 1.5 x 3.5 inches, a 1 x 6 is .75 x 5.5 inches, etc.

This is the same in Europe since I believe you are referring to 'planed' timber. A 2x4 planed is about 1.5 to 1.75 x 3.5 to 3.75, but a 2x4 'rough' is 2x4.....of course you'll probably want to plane down the rough yourself anyway reducing the 2x4!

Norway isn't part of the EU, so the RoHS should not apply unless they have stated it in the EØS-agreement...Anyway, I think i know which carrier you are using, and that shouldn't be a problem...

As you see, I'm from Norway too, so please give me a PM if you would like to discuss different solutions!

Hello Oce.
I think it`s stated in the EØS-agreement. Couse I`ve been in contact whith "Statens Forurensningstilsyn", and they had decided to agree to the RoHS from 1 of July this year.

But, as you also say, I don`t think it will be a problem since I use a carrier that takes care of the taxes and so. The carrier is Magnum, I quess you ware thinking of the same carrieer?

Jupp, been using them for some time now, works great.
I guess it will not become a problem, but you never know...

I`ve got a little problem now. I`m looking for some threaded rods now, but here in Norway it`s very hard to find threaded rods with inch values. The shops here just have with metrics value. But can I use M6x1mm threaded rod, instead of the 1/4 - 20 rod? And M8x1.25mm rod, instead of the 5/16-18 rod?

It is a pretty close fit between this values, butt not perfect. Can I adjust this in the controller software? Does the machines equipped with 1/4 - 20 and 5/16-18 rods also has to be calibrated?

Yes all the machines have to be calibrated.

For example I use inch (imperial) threaded rods to drive my machine but I have the Mach 3 software setup in mm.

In your case you will most likely run the software in metric mode (mm)


For M6x1mm rod

Full step (200 steps per rotation for a 1.8deg stepper)
The software will be set to 200 steps per unit (mm)

Half step (400 steps per rotation for a 1.8deg stepper)
The software will be set to 400 steps per unit (mm)

Quarter step (800 steps per rotation for a 1.8deg stepper)
The software will be set to 800 steps per unit (mm)



For M8x1.25mm rod

Full step (200 steps per rotation for a 1.8deg stepper)
The software will be set to 160 steps per unit (mm)

Half step (400 steps per rotation for a 1.8deg stepper)
The software will be set to 320 steps per unit (mm)

Quarter step (800 steps per rotation for a 1.8deg stepper)
The software will be set to 640 steps per unit (mm)

I think thats about right.

Jason

I to am new to the DIY CNC. I've worked w/ Fanuc and Gcode for the last 3 years for other companies and see the pros. I think solsylva looks like a winner but what I want to know is - can i go w/ a 3 servo system and then upgrade to a 4 or should I buy the 4 servo controler now in preperation for the 4 axis? This is a $150 question literaly. Thanks for a reply. N8.

Hello again!
My machine is not far from completed now, so it`s time to find a router to mount on the Z axis spindel. I think I want a router with around 1HP, but I`m not shure witch router to go for. Anyone have any sugestions?

Hello again!
My machine is not far from completed now, so it`s time to find a router to mount on the Z axis spindel. I think I want a router with around 1HP, but I`m not shure witch router to go for. Anyone have any sugestions?


Pictures!!!! damnit man I say produce those PICTURES!!!! Only cause I am jealous... (nuts)

Congrats at being where you are but I would say go for this http://www.tylertool.com/bosch83.html

I am going for something like that myself. But this is only my .0002 worth

I will produce some pictures, just have to do a little more assembling:) Haven`t had much time lately working with the table.

The Bosch router you are suggesting will not work for me since I live in Norway, but I found the "Norwegian version" of it on internet. Here it is:

http://scaptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-sca/Product.jsp;jsessionid=75E923E42E77A375B293A0E80285786B?division=gw&language=no-NO&ccat_id=81984&prod_id=9878

But are there any cheaper router motor that would do the job good? Or will the cheaper router motors have so much axial play that they would be useless, anyone with expiriens with that?

What about this one?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kress-1050-FME-Milling-Grinding-Spindle-Motor-Router_W0QQitemZ280073586206QQihZ018QQcategoryZ64819QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Kress is an excellent router.
I actually own the Bosch router and it works very well. I have seen problems relating to the switch being faulty but I have had no problems.

Jason

Greeting all.
I am new to all this but one project has to lead to another and here I am. To accomplish the goals of another project we need a cnc machine, which we have designed but not yet built (4 axis). Looking into various cnc machines we have concluded that a diy project is the best way to go. I have determined that a smaller project is the way to start with a small 3 axis machine to learn the ropes, then proceed with the main project. Now having looked over several plans (or descriptions of plans) I am more confused than ever. Does anyone have any plans they can recommend to get started? Plan budget is < $100 USD. Project budget is < $800 USD.

Thanks in advance!
Hos

The JGRO plans (free) are good, as well as Joe's plans or Lionclaw's plans.

Joe200che and Lionclaw also sell kits for their respective plans which include all or most of the wood or MDF parts to assemble the machine.

Lionclaw thread link
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14331


Joe200che thread link
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15139

Jason

Coogrr; QFT!
We need those pictures! :)

Coogrr; QFT!
We need those pictures! :)


QFT! means? Quit Frilly Things?

quoted for the truth ;) Guess I've been using bulletinboards too much lately..hehe...