There's been a lot of discussion about waltzing the machine thru narrow doorways, and Bob and Greg at Tormach have been generous with tips and advice. My move, though, would involve lowering the machine vertically thru a hatchway about 35 inches wide (hatchway dimension in the other direction is wide open, not a problem).

I put the question to Bob and Greg regarding the removal of various machine parts to fit thru the opening, and they advised that the machine when suspended from the lifting eye tilts forward and so will fit thru an opening somewhat narrower than the front-to-back dimension of the machine.

So, to those of you who have received and moved your machines, do you have any sense of how much clearance the "tilt" buys you? i.e., What's the smallest opeing you think you could lower the machine thru vertically?

Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.

I don't *think* it will gain you much. I've got a picture of my my mill being lifted soley by the lug but it will take me a day or two to get it up on a web site where or reduce it in size to fit here.

Email me if you want a full size copy by email.

Mike

Of course with correct slinging you can get it to lean at what ever angle you would like. The big question is how "deep" is the entrance before you get into the "open" area below.

Regards
Phil.

There's been a lot of discussion about waltzing the machine thru narrow doorways, and Bob and Greg at Tormach have been generous with tips and advice. My move, though, would involve lowering the machine vertically thru a hatchway about 35 inches wide (hatchway dimension in the other direction is wide open, not a problem).

I put the question to Bob and Greg regarding the removal of various machine parts to fit thru the opening, and they advised that the machine when suspended from the lifting eye tilts forward and so will fit thru an opening somewhat narrower than the front-to-back dimension of the machine.

So, to those of you who have received and moved your machines, do you have any sense of how much clearance the "tilt" buys you? i.e., What's the smallest opeing you think you could lower the machine thru vertically?

Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.

After playing around with some drawings and a CAD model of the mill, I've decided that the tilt really doesn't help much (maybe about 1/2 inch). Since I don't want to try pivoting an 1100-lb mill in the vertical plane while it's suspended from a sling, I think the more sensible approach will be a partial disassembly.

Looks like removing the column (with control cabinet attached) from the base runs the least risk of compromising the accuracy of the machine. While Tormach doesn't encourage disassembly, they do realize that sometimes there's just no other way, and removal of the column doesn't seem to cause them too many palpitations.

Can anyone speak from experience on this approach?

I disassembled mine pretty completely to get it into the basement through 30" doors and down a somewhat tortuous path. The cabinet came off pretty easily so long as you don't mind disconnecting the servo wires.

The column has two taper pins pressed into the bottom flange, one on each side, that should be removed before taking out the SHCS that attach the column to the base. The taper pins have threaded holes in the center and to remove them you can use a metric bolt inside a short piece of tubing to jack the pins out. It might be tough to get to the one on the RH side as the cabinet interferes with access. The Tormach manual mentions the pins in passing in the section on moving and suggests that the pins be removed before the SHCS at disassembly and reinstalled before the SHCS on re-assembly.

For those interested the approximate weights of various sub-assemblies are:

Spindle motor: 45 lbs
Head (w/o motor): 140 lbs
Cabinet: 110 lbs
Column: 300 lbs
Base: 200 lbs
Table & apron: 310 lbs
X & Y stepper motors: 10 lbs

The weights were measured with a bathroom scale so they are pretty rough.

I've started putting together a web page that will document my move and will post a link once that gets done.

Mike

I think you may be going to a great deal of unecessary trouble. I've just measured mind front to back at 34" providing you remove the z motor and bearing housing. You could further remove the front way cover retaining plate/blocks and the oiler and get another 1 1/2". The Tormach dimensioned drawing shows the control cabinet protruding well back beyond the column. This is not the case for my mill. The back of control cabinet is only about half an inch further back. You would need an adjustable strop to the front of the mill to hold it vertical.

Regards
Phil

After playing around with some drawings and a CAD model of the mill, I've decided that the tilt really doesn't help much (maybe about 1/2 inch). Since I don't want to try pivoting an 1100-lb mill in the vertical plane while it's suspended from a sling, I think the more sensible approach will be a partial disassembly.

Looks like removing the column (with control cabinet attached) from the base runs the least risk of compromising the accuracy of the machine. While Tormach doesn't encourage disassembly, they do realize that sometimes there's just no other way, and removal of the column doesn't seem to cause them too many palpitations.

Can anyone speak from experience on this approach?

Philbur--

I agree with your measurements. In fact, my first thought had been to take off the y-axis stepper and coupling box. That should allow the machine to *just* squeak thru the opening. The downside to that approach is the potential to degrade the machine's accuracy if the reassembly isn't done just right. Tormach seems to prefer removal of the column since it doesn't require the separation of precisely aligned moving assemblies (e.g., ballscrews, bearings, and ways).

I guess it comes down to just how much work is involved in removing the column and ensuring that the reassembly is done correctly. Your approach may actually turn out to be the better one; I just don't know yet.

Yes my error. I should have said the y axis motor and bearing housing not the z. Both the bearing housing and the ballnut housing have dowell pins so re-alignment should be a piece of cake. In fact you could not get the alignment wrong even if you wanted to, unless you leave out the dowell pins. Also if you screw the ballscrew in and secure the table after removing the stepper motor and bearing housing you would not need to disturb the y-axis ballnut housing or oil line.

Regards
Phil

Philbur--

I agree with your measurements. In fact, my first thought had been to take off the y-axis stepper and coupling box. That should allow the machine to *just* squeak thru the opening. The downside to that approach is the potential to degrade the machine's accuracy if the reassembly isn't done just right. Tormach seems to prefer removal of the column since it doesn't require the separation of precisely aligned moving assemblies (e.g., ballscrews, bearings, and ways).

I guess it comes down to just how much work is involved in removing the column and ensuring that the reassembly is done correctly. Your approach may actually turn out to be the better one; I just don't know yet.