Hey all,
Lets use this thread to exchange ideas, tips, tricks and keep in touch about our Dynatorch machines.

Ed
whome124@aol.com

Hello All,
My name is Greg and I am the Production Manager here at Dynatorch. I was told about this forum by Edwardpic. I would like to thank him for the info. My purpose for being here is to offer a little tech support to the Dynatorch customers and also tell of new software updates and get feedback from all of you about our product so I can go back to the partners that run this company with customer generated ideas on how to make our product better. I look very forward to working with all of you.


Thanks,
Greg

Welcome Greg!!!
There are a few of us now in here, good we can keep intouch and throw ideas around.
Let me know when the plates will ship, sorry I was busy when you called. Also I need the 4 hard stop brackets as well, if you have them I can install them and shim the plate like you said to get up and running.
Back to wiring, we are running dedicated circuits for the computer-plasma.

Edward Pic

Welcome Dynatorch Greg,
Great to have you on the forum. How is the new shop you guys moved into? I'm looking forward to sharing info with all the Dynatorchers. Also there is nothing like a little imput from the factory. I like the fact that Dynatorch is always trying to improve their system. Are any of you guys going to the Fabtech show in Atlanta next week? http://www.fmafabtech.com/

Hello Magma Joe,
Its good to be here thank you for the welcome. The new shop is coming along very well. We are still in the process of putting things away and getting set up , but we can already see how much we are going to benefit from all of the extra space. Walt and Leon will be at Fabtech for sure. I do have a ticket myself , but it is still up in the air as to whether or not I will be able to go. I would like to because Ive never been to one before. Anyway, Has anyone among the Dynatorch users had a chance to play with the windows xp style version of the software yet? Before our software had a windows 2000 look to it. This new version looks alot sleeker. It has all the same features of previous versions, just looks alot better. Also Another new version of our software is now available. Version 320212 contains a new conversion algorithm for converting existing g-codes, (such as those from Burny files) for conversion to code compatible with our machine. For instance, we use G23 and G25 to raise and lower the torch, others use M3/M4 or M70/M71 or M66/M67 and even M9/M10. We also use absolute coordinates for X and Y and incremental dimensions for I and J, others use combinations of the two. We use decimal points in our coordinates, others assume 4 decimal places, but do not use the period. We can now convert most these files over in our Modify G-Code section of the Converter. We also fixed a small bug in the Library for the OxyFuel cutting. It seems some values were not being assigned when the selection was made. And a bug in the DXF converter with Ellipses was found and cured (Thanks Sam). So I guess thats all thats going on here.
Greg

Hey Greg, nice to have you here. My Dynatorch is finally coming online after a steep learning curve with both the EnRoute nesting software and just learning to run a plasma. I am running 14ga with the Hypertherm finecut tips, and will start some production parts on 7ga soon. Need to tweak in the 40A tips with 10ga after that, but it is going pretty well now.

Let me know if any of you guys ever get up to the great white north (Wisconsin) where the weather has been frightful lately.

Hey guys,
Got my gantry spaced out 3/8 of an inch with an aluminum plate i sheared and milled out. Now the gantry moves freely up and down the X axis. Also sheared up 3 sheats of 3/16 mild steel for the slats, good thing I have a 6ft 3/16 cap hydraulic shear here. All wiring is done re: 20ft ground rod, dedicated 110 and 220 circuits for the system and plasma, just still waiting on the PM 1000 to arrive. controller is wired up to the computer and motors, waiting to button up the plastic wire guide when the PM comes and can run the torch lead. I cant wait to at least run this machine!!!!

Ed

I'm curious what style machines do you guys have? Are they single or dual x axis driven, standard or drop side? Edwardpic, Scorpion, what Cadcam software are you guys using? I have a standard gantry, with Onecnc for Cadcam software.

Magma,
I have a drop side single X drive gantry/table. I also use Autocad 2005, and sheetcam for nesting/arrays. Havent figured out how to use Dynas' software to array multuple parts, and the fact I have to click each item to make a cut path takes alot of time. Most of my drawings have lots of holes/slots/rounded corners. Plus when i convert a drawing to G code for some reason the construction lines or old dimension lines are visible, but when opened in cad they arent there. Guess tweaking is the key.

Ed

Mag:
I have a drop-side, single drive too. I built my table to their plans, and bought their air handling table. I use Solidworks for my CAD software. The Dynatorch software is not really meant for production nesting of parts, and I could only get it to nest one part at a time. I quickly decided that I needed a more comprehensive nesting and vector software, so I bought EnRoute per Dynatorch's recommendation. The software is a little clunky to learn, but does a nice job of converting and manipulating bitmaps to vectors, doing the offsets, and nesting lots of parts is a breeze. They are now offering WE-CIM software, which I don't know anything about.

Well heres an update:
PM 1000 came today, finished the controller connections and power connection for the PM. Everything went great. Went to do the set-up on the machine, moved gantry to the center and powered the contoller on and started the software. Red lights are on on the motors, but NO movement either X or Y, went right by the manual and nothing.
Needless to say I am not a happy camper right now. Lets hope that Dyna can tell me whats wrong and the thing will come to life. What I have noticed is the manual no where near matches the software settings wise. The help files that give you the settings are much different then the manual. Also there is an extra pin on the controller but one wire short in the plug. I spent 2 hours checking wiring and re-checking wiring. Finally gave up and went home with the machine sitting silent.
Ill post what the problem was tomorrow, if we can get it worked out. Almost seems like the software is still in symulation mode even though its registered and should work.
Wish me luck!!!
Ed

Edwardpic, I was wondering about the manual. It seems they frequently update their software with new features, but how often does Dynatorch update the manual to reflect the changes? Does the manual you can download from their website cover the latest additions? Thats a good question for Dynatorch Greg. Maybe Greg can pipe in on this one. Thanks..

Magma,
The manual I have has alot of revision lines, as in replace this, put picture here, changed must update. Also the legend does not match the pages. When you open the help file and scroll to machine settings, they are very different, and the software I have has more options then the manual under machine setup has. If I could get the machine running re: gantry move during the setup, I would be a little happier. I am still waiting on the hard stops that didnt come with the machine to arrive. I dont think the gantry was run before shipping, it definately would not have slid along the X on this table, I had to shim the drop side plate for it to move more then 6".
Today is a new day, and I am sure Dyna will give me the info needed to start to use the machine. Lets see what today brings.

Ed

Ed:
Greg had told me to call Leon when ready to start the machine for the first time - Leon walked me through all the proper setups (yes they are different than the manual) and it fired up no problem. I have his number if you need it. Just a crazy thought, do you have your controller box powered up and on? I think that their software guru Leon gets so buried in questions that the manual documentation lags behind.

Hello all,
To answer Magma Joes question about the software helpfiles: No the hardcopy of the manual is NOT up to date. Our software developer , Mike is always adding updates and new features to the software. To keep the manual up to date we would need a full time writer. What we are talking about doing is keeping an up to date downloadable manual on our website. It will be available very soon. Anybody who has version 3202xp or any of the versions after that has the updated help files. The thing is most of our updates and all of our new features are because of customer generated ideas. If there is a little something you would like to have in the software , some type of feature , tell me. We can discuss it here and I will pass the word on to Mike and he will see what he can do. Share your ideas with me people,I want to make our product as customer friendly as possible and I think this is a great forum to do so.Thanks Guys
Greg

Greg,
Thank you very much for getting the machine working with me this morning. I had a few problems with collition, but changed the SP and it seemed to help, also had the wrong tip in the torch. I need to order some 40 amp tips, all I have here is 60.
steel cuts good, but had problems with losing the arc on aluminum, I was trying to cut 3/16 aluminum and lost the arc, but the gantry still moved. Guess settings for 3/16 and 1/4 aluminum are precise, if you have a solutuion please send, or post them in here like we talked about earlier.
Thanks again for the help!!!!!!
Ed

UPDATE:
Cut alot of parts out of 3/16 mild steel. Then cut a small sign out of 3/16 aluminum, only had a couple problems with diving on the aluminum, but messed with it and got a real nice cut and barely any dross.
Needless to say I was at the shop late cutting parts, damn how time flys when having fun. After a rocky start I am definately happy with the machine and especially want to send a Big Thanks to Greg and Walt for all their help.
Tomorrow starts the parts cutting for my company, probably be doing the 16-14 and 12 gauge stuff. My order of 5x10 steel sheets arrived about 5.
Question: What size are you guys using for your material slats? Remember I dont have the air table, I used 3/16 and I think that was a little too thick really seemed to effect the cuts/dross when passing over them.
Thanks all,
Ed

Edward,

10 ga. x 3" I buy a 5x10 sheet and shear them up. My table is set on 3" centers and this works OK.

Sounds like your system is moving along great!

Tom

Tom,
Thats what I did and sheared mine at 4". Just thought they might be too thick because thats where the larger "clumps" of dross are.

Ed

The dross chunks are a part of the headache. I keep a chipping hammer on the table and clean before the start of the project.

Edwardpic, I have heard others complain of dross build up on the slats as well as the change in the quality of the cut as it passes over the slat. I have cut 1" high points in my slats spaced 6" apart and staggered. My friend with the plasma cam had worked around anouther cnc plasma before getting his plasmacam which comes with pointed slats. He said the points made a big difference and to be sure to try them on my table that I built. The plasmacam software even shows the table points in the Cad part of the software. When his points ware off he he has some 1" by 3" pieces he cut with a slot in the middle and a point on the end that drops in place on the slat with the worn point . Seems to work good for him. Once my table is up and running I can give some more feedback. Keep us updated on your progress. Same for Bossfrog, and where is scorpion?

Magma,
Havent heard much from Scorpion. I just ordered some 1/4 steel and have a small peice of 3/8 id like to try. Have any settings for that thickness? Do you ever use the 60 amp tip with the PM 1000? I am going to the welding supply and get some 40 amp tips in about an hour. That should work better for the 3/16 i cut last night.

Ed

I have some 40A tips that I bought for 10 ga, but haven't used them yet. Hypertherm recommends the 60A tip for 3/16". The 3/16" (7ga) I have cut so far worked pretty well with the 60A tips at about 142-145THC, .056 offset, and around 90-100ipm. Lots of slag on curvy parts, hardly any on straight cuts, but a twisted wire wheel takes it right off.

I have not used the Dynatorch as much as would have liked so far - remember I eat consumables very quickly. Will probably order the Eaton refrigerated air dryer that kcir recommended, and hopefully will increase my consumable life. I am ready to start making my own production parts, as purchased plasma parts supply is getting low now. Also plan to make some artsy patterns out of 14ga with the fine cuts, if I can make them last more than 10 minutes.

I think the idea of having points on the slats is good - I have some problems when a straight line falls right on a slat. I made a scraper about a foot wide with a long handle, and knock off slag before starting a new sheet. On small parts, I could see the points as being a problem.

Yea, having it there and burning up tips can get frustrating. I only wasted one tip so far thats because of a crash on the first run. Since then Ive cut probably 20 parts out of 14G and the tip is holding up. I do use a tip cleaner from my Oxy torch to keep the hole round, and also used some tip spray like I do on my welder, the thicker dip in clogs the holes, but the spray keeps the splatter from sticking to the nozzle.
I ended up using the ref dryer on my main line for the whole shop, and used a Devilbiss clean air system for my plasma. Granted it does more the the ref system, and cost me $522 from my paint supply house. Nice thing is that every morning when I turn the air on it automatically drains the water out. This is good because I am lazy about that stuff.

Ed

You guys might also check out this forum on plasma cutting over at Yahoo. Jim Colt who works for Hypertherm is one of the moderaters. He has some great posts on cnc plasma and Hypertherm products. Lots of great information. http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/plasmacutting/messages

A quick question for any of you running dual X drive motors on your Dynatorch table. When you first hooked everything up did all the motors function and if so did the motor movement match up with the jog buttons on the screen? Only 2 motors turned and not the ones I expected.

It's going to be another week before I'm able to install everthing on the table so was just doing a check to see if all my motors / cables are functional.
I am just curiuos if this is normal.

Tyler

Tyler, Welcome to the group. I don't have the dual drive set up so I can't help you on that one. Hopefully someone else on the forum does and can chime in. Keep us updated on your Dynatorch system as you get it up and running. I have a few more weeks before mine will be ready to cut. Seems there are several of us here with new Dynatorches.

Magma,
Havent heard much from Scorpion. I just ordered some 1/4 steel and have a small peice of 3/8 id like to try. Have any settings for that thickness? Do you ever use the 60 amp tip with the PM 1000? I am going to the welding supply and get some 40 amp tips in about an hour. That should work better for the 3/16 i cut last night.

Ed

Sorry guys...been busy and we don't have internet at my shop. I should but I don't because I can't get it. Long story and way off subject...

I'm currently using 3" x 1/8" slats in my Dynatorch table. I've bent them slightly so they don't run square to the table and it works well. Dross buildup is a completely normal thing. They become a freakin' mess over time because of how the torch runs at different speeds during different operations. If you do a lot of smaller holes you'll have much more buildup due to the 30% decrease in speed the system cuts small holes at (it's configurable though). Also, if you're unlucky enough to cut down the length of one of your slats you'll pretty much destroy it.

Regarding cutting 3/16": I typically cut it with 60A consumables because the IPM is faster. Recently I ran out of them and had no choice but to run the 40 amp ones. To my suprise I was able to cut at 60IPM with the 40A ones and the dross came of fairly easy. I can tell you that the cut quality wasn't quite the same though that may be because 60IPM was probably on the fast side. As far as I can tell, as long as the amps are right to pierce the material and you can tolerate the slower cutting speeds, you could probably cut 3/16" with less amps than 40 - though I've not tried.

Regarding Air Dryers: I run a similar system to the guys at Dynatorch. I have a complete air drying system shortly after the air compressor and a roll wrap style filter at the plasma unit. After running the system wide open for a week I can take out the roll wrap filter and it's still dry. Prior to using the air dryer system I had to replace the roll wrap daily because it would be completely water logged. The better your drying system, the longer you'll cut with your consumables. At more than $10 per electrode/nozzle pair, how long would it really take you to pay for the dryer? I think I doubled or trippled consumable life if I had to guess.

Aluminum Cutting: How many of you have cut aluminum? Can you post up pics of the cut quality? I don't really have a need but I'm curious how the finished cut actually looks.

A quick question for any of you running dual X drive motors on your Dynatorch table. When you first hooked everything up did all the motors function and if so did the motor movement match up with the jog buttons on the screen? Only 2 motors turned and not the ones I expected.

It's going to be another week before I'm able to install everthing on the table so was just doing a check to see if all my motors / cables are functional.
I am just curiuos if this is normal.

Tyler

Tyler,

You can reverse the direction of the motor if yous is backwards. I don't think you can call it normal but it's not a problem. Which settings you need to change is another story. Since my manual & machine is at the shop I can't play with it to help you out but can check Monday. If you can't figure it out then you may want to ask Greg or call Leon (tech support). Either of them could probably tell you off the cuff.

Scorpion,
I tried some 3/16 aluminum at the shop right after it was up and running. I made a quick circle in circle drawing and fired it up. Totally guessed on the settings and it cut pretty darn well. I have the appox settings jotted down at the computer station, or should I say written on the side with a marker. I'll try and snap a photo and post here, keep in mind It was the first cut, but looked pretty good. Hopefully next week I'll get the settings right in Sheetcam for the nesting. I am trying to work with Mike at Dyna to get sheetcam as a viable option for nesting-kerf compensation-multiple part nesting-etc. My thought is that if we as consumers or possible consumers of Dynatorch a option for a nesting program for $159 VS 2K or 3K dollars would spur sales. Like I say just my thinking as a business man.

Ed

Scorpion,
I tried some 3/16 aluminum at the shop right after it was up and running. I made a quick circle in circle drawing and fired it up. Totally guessed on the settings and it cut pretty darn well. I have the appox settings jotted down at the computer station, or should I say written on the side with a marker. I'll try and snap a photo and post here, keep in mind It was the first cut, but looked pretty good. Hopefully next week I'll get the settings right in Sheetcam for the nesting. I am trying to work with Mike at Dyna to get sheetcam as a viable option for nesting-kerf compensation-multiple part nesting-etc. My thought is that if we as consumers or possible consumers of Dynatorch a option for a nesting program for $159 VS 2K or 3K dollars would spur sales. Like I say just my thinking as a business man.

Ed

That's great news. From time to time there are parts that we'd prefer to make with Aluminum but since I really haven't tried, we just didn't. Probably the main reason is we don't have any laying around and since we don't cut it...circular isn't it? I'll go get a sheet next week and see what I can do with it.

EDIT: So I went to www.sheetcam.com. It appears that it has a few features such as ramped peircing and other gadgets that might be useful. What it really doesn't talk about is nesting and if it has a definable nesting order. I understand that it's smart enough to cut interior shapes prior to cuting the exterior one. What I'm wondering is if it will optimize the cut order of parts so you can optimize rapid traversal times.

If you can get a picture of the part you cut and post your initial run settings that would be awesome.

As for sheetcam...I have seen that many people have talked about it on this forum. What are the pro's of using it? Cost only? I use what comes with a torchmate system combined with AutoCAD. The torchmate software is fairly easy to create cut paths, lead-ins, and so on. Easy is good but if sheetcam is better for some obvious reason then I might be interested in switching over.

Scorpion,
I will definately post what I have so far on Aluminum, at least the 3/16 I tried so far. Since I have a Dynatorch machine and not a Torchmate, I dont think I can use the Torchmate software to auto nest and creat lead ins/outs then import the DXF into Dyna's software to cut. You can try sheetcam free for 30 days and then buy after that, Les will give you a license that is good for 30 days.
The pro's of sheetcam are user defineable cut height-IPM-kerf compensation and nesting. The nesting is nice because it allows you to set the peice of steel you are using re: size relative to the table. This allows you to optimize the amount of peices for that size say you have a 24" x 45" piece of 14 gauge, you can rotate, move, and get the most out of that peice.
I have a few learning curves to use it with the Dynatorch software, but Les will help me with that next week. The peices I nested and tried to cut had an order problem, it may be my Cad drawing, so I import the part, create the cut path, then can email that to Les and he can decifer if it is a code problem or drawing problem. To me thats service. He had a post proccessor for my Dynatorch within 24 hours. That alone tells me that sheetcam is reliable and very helpfull.
Will post more next week.

Ed

Ed,

I do have a Dynatorch but I used to have a Torchmate. There's a feature in Dynatorch that allows a user to import/convert a pre-nested file and that's what you have to use if you are using torchmate's (or other) software to create lead-in's, lead-out's, cut paths, and nesting outside of Dynatorch. So far it's all I have used in the Dynatorch converter...honestly I don't even know how the rest of it works. I figured I'd play with it when I get some time. As it stands now I have nearly 1,200 existing components that I cut during our production cycles so I really didn't want to have to do messy conversions or remappings of signed off designs.

We did, on the other hand, experience some interesting problems cutting our old files. Apparently with the new height control system being so fast I can run the torch exactly where it needs to be and the cut width is actually smaller than it was on my old system. Some of our parts no longer fit together in the jig because the tolerances changed. No biggie but it did catch me off guard a little.

I'll have to check out that sheetcam...

Ok here are a couple pics of the Aluminum I cut as a test. Its 3/16 and the settings were:
60 amp tip
SP-147
Feedrate-65
Machine on-40
Cut height-3/16


Ed

Update:
For those of you who want to try sheetcam with your Dynatorch system it's all good. Import-Nest all the parts you want just DO NOT click the ramp lead-in button during set-up. That was my problem all along, it was causing the torch to fire then stop. After Mike (Dynatorch) and Les (sheetcam) worked together all it was was a simple button pushed on my part. All is good now, and I just used sheetcam to cut over 35 parts for my business.
I did find that the Fine cut tips DO NOT last very long. I am switching to 40 amp tips for up to 12 gauge and 60 amp for the thicker metals re: 1/4 and 3/8's. I am intimidated about cutting anything larger then 1/4, but this too shall pass.
So I was the ginny pig for sheetcam, all you guys can thank me now...lol.. And for $159 you cant beat it.


Ed

A helpful idea for you folks. If you want thinner slats or more stability in your slats, cut an extra slat holder. You have the machine we use to make these. Cut it in two pieces and weld together at the center. Then stitch on a piece of 1" wide flat bar to the bottom for stability. Extend the flat bar past the ends 2" and drill a hole. Bolt this in the center of your table (the long way) so that the end with the hole rests on top of the cross bar at each end. Now you can bend the slats so that the are not straight across the table. Instead they form an arc. This allows you to use thinner stock also. It stiffens the whole slat set.

We make the slots wide enough for 3/16 material as we do not know if you are going to put 22 ga or 2" material on the table and need to allow for thick slats to support heavy plates. I hope that helps.

Always improving the breed. I will post again later about how to save all system settings in a file in case you loose the PC someday.

Leon

Ok here are a couple pics of the Aluminum I cut as a test. Its 3/16 and the settings were:
60 amp tip
SP-147
Feedrate-65
Machine on-40
Cut height-3/16


Ed

Cool. Your results prove my single test cut of 1/8" about a year ago had the same results. What I see in your pictures is a some-what grainy finish to the aluminum...almost as if the torch "tears" the material instead of cutting it. It should work well for me to use the system to cut blanks that then get machined. It will save a lot of time and expense.

I am intimidated about cutting anything larger then 1/4, but this too shall pass.

Ed

The first time you cut 1/2" plate and see the finish you'll think differently about cutting thicker materials. We've actually cut many heavy duty parts since I figured out I could do that. Heck, I cut a 2.125" wrench I needed two weeks ago. Cutting the thick stuff works slick. Give it a shot. Set your movement delay in the torch settings to 1 second and increase your pierce height to 4/16". IPM in the 30 to 35 range and you'll be cutting 1/2".

Matt

Matt,
yea a little grainy, but that cut was done before i really set the machine up, and was able to use sheetcam. I basically cut it out said cool and jotted down the settings.
I do have some 1/4 and 3/8 to cut. I havent even attempted thos thicknesses yet, was hoping somebody that has can give me what they have found: SP-Feedrate-Tip-Machine Voltage-Cutting height. Would help alot and save me alot of time messing up steel. Like I said the thicker stuff is intimidating right now.

Ed

Scorpion - cool ! I don't have a need for anything 1/2" (yet), but nice to know it can be done. Do you remember what your offset and THC were set at?

Matt,
yea a little grainy, but that cut was done before i really set the machine up, and was able to use sheetcam. I basically cut it out said cool and jotted down the settings.

Ed

I'll get more data on Aluminum in the next month or so.


Scorpion - cool ! I don't have a need for anything 1/2" (yet), but nice to know it can be done. Do you remember what your offset and THC were set at?



By offset do you mean pierce height? I posed most of my settings on another thread but this is a good place to put them since they apply to the dynatorch system. Maybe we can get LeonD to post up his settings since he's the one that
Designed the system
Likely has more cutting hours logged on one of these tables than all of us put together * 100


Voltage Height: For the most part I try to leave it alone at the factory set 132/133 range. The closer to the material, the better the cut. All of these heights are using this voltage except 1/2" and 3/8". For those thicknesses I tend to bump it up to 138.

Keep in mind when reading that when I dial in a cut speed it's to have the dross removal as easy as possible and as minimal as possible. I have a Hypertherm Powermax 1000, use a high-end air drying system just off the compressor and use a small paper roll dryer at the plasma cutter.

For 1/8":
IPM Range - 100 to 145
Optimal IPM - 120
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16 to 4/16
Pierce Delay - 0 seconds

For 3/16" (60AMP Consumables):
IPM Range - 70 to 95
Optimal IPM - 80
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16
Pierce Delay - .25 seconds

For 3/16" (40AMP Consumables):
IPM Range - 55 to 65
Optimal IPM - 60
Consumables - 40amp
Amps - 40
Pierce Height - 3/16
Pierce Delay - .25 seconds

For 1/4":
IPM Range: 60 - 85
Optimal IPM - 70
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16
Pierce Delay - .25 seconds

For 3/8":
Tested IPM Range - ~45 - 50
Optimal - Not enough data to determine
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16 to 4/16
Pierce Delay - .85 seconds

For 1/2":
IPM Range - 30 to 35
Optimal - No difference in IPM Range, dross sucks to get off
Consumables - 60amp
Amps - 60
Pierce Height - 3/16 to 4/16
Pierce Delay - 1 second

A little more info for you -

I use .125" overlap on my cut path. Helps eliminate the ramping in marks on the part
I do use a lead in and lead out.
I added a middle support to my 5x10 table like LeonD eluded to a few threads up. Doing so I was able to stagger the slats to make them arc'd instead of straight.
I'm running the collision detection unit. I was skeptical as to how well it would work initially but as it turns out, it's extremely effective. I managed to crash at rapid travel once and nothing was damaged. I did have to restart my heart though as I couldn't get to the e-stop in time and I could see it coming.
I have the 5x10 drop side gantry/table
I painted it safety yellow (stands out!)
I'm running the 5x10 vacume table plummed through the roof
I run an easy lock magnet ground clap (sweet!)


I'll post pictures of the table in the next couple of weeks (shortly after I remember to take the camera to work).

Scorpion,
You are the man THANKS!!! I emailed Leon and asked if he could help on the settings, like you stated and very true, he had tons more time on these machines then us. I also use a magnetic ground clamp, I do on all 4 of my mig and tig welders. Had mine powdercoated bright red (cost me 100 bucks) Believe it or not I use Skirted sides, and a drum fan and thats it. I have virtually no smoke at all in the shop. I also have my son do the dirty job of blowing the machine off, and sweep up every night before we close (kids are good for the grunt work)
I found that tip spray like I use on my welders works great for slag not sticking to the tips. I will try and post pics of my setup as well, but dont crack on my computer station, quickly built out of 3/4 sanded plywood.
I'll wait for Leon to get back with me about the settings from DT.
once again you are the man and thanks!!!

Ed

Scorpion,
One more thing. Do you ever find the need for using the fine cut tips? I used them so far on the 14 and 16 gauge I use for my handicapped vehicles. I guess im starting with the small gauge stuff first. Then move on to the thicker more intimidating metal.

Ed

Scorpions numbers are pretty good. There are a lot of variables that contribute to a "good" setup. If cutting artwork, you will generally run slower and accept more dross than when cutting machine parts. This is in order to get better detail. We already incorporate automatic proportional slowdown (APS) in our newer software versions (see advanced settings page). This slows the cut in small holes proportional to the hole size. It also locks out the THC during these cuts to avoid crash from slower feedrates. This helps reduce bevel on bolt holes and slots but adds dross. Sorry, it's one or the other.

That being said, you can see that one setup might be OK for you and not someone else. Further, tip quality and consumable set selection is a factor. I will offer some general information.

I always try to use the smallest nozzle for the given material thickness. If the charts show it can be cut with no less than 60 amps (40 will not make it) then I use the 60 amp. If 40 works, then I will use "Fine line" consumable set (applies to Hypertherm only). That's good up to and including 1/8" material. When possible, I also use extended consumables up to 1/4" plate. Then I switch to standard sheilded set for over 1/4" plate to reduce tip damage at pierce. After selecting the amperage tip, I set the amperage. You can reduce amps a bit to help life. Never reduce amps by more than 15 on a 60 amp or larger. On a 40 amp, you can go to 20 but that's as low as the plasma will allow in most cases and is only used on thin (<24 ga) material. If you want 60, do not use an 80 amp tip, use a 60. By the way, that knob is not a precision calibrated device.

Set air pressure as recommended for that set of consumables.
Pierce height generally runs 3/16. I increase to 4/16 at 3/8 plate and maybe 5/16 for over 3/8 plate. It is just to avoid splash. If your system cannot jump more than 4/16 to start, that will be your limit. Some will not.

Arc voltage. Getting a bit more complex. For all sheilded consumables I generally run at 135V unless cutting thick material or running extra reduced speeds. Then add some voltage. 140 for 3/8 plate and 145 for thicker. For unsheilded or fine-line, I run 90-100V. Less if the cut deems it. I change on the fly to get it down close but no less than 1/16". Generally I use the book values or add 5 to avoid crashes. It's always safer to start high rather than low.

For feedrates we really have some fun. The book is always high as they want to sell plasmas and beat out the competition. I subtract 20% from the "recommended" (not maximum) values and never exceed 200 IPM. On anything thicker than 22ga I run under 150 IPM. If the detail is required slow a bit more.

Now for some additional info. The later versions have the "library" button that will save the present values as any name and build a reference library you can select at will. This is a quick way to get back that best setting. You can save as many as you like and call then what you like.

In addition, there are some lesser known codes in G-code available.
G24 Z-2.25 will send the torch rapid to the -2.25 Z axis position. Coordinates from 0 to -4 are acceptable but watch for crash at lower limits.

G25 Z-x.xxx same as above where x.xxx is position. Z command is optional. This does a partial retract and ends the cut.

G26 or M26 turn on THC
G28 or M28 turn off THC
Use these in the program at the point where you want to change states.

M25 Px.xx sets pierce delay to x.xx seconds

I have to ask Mike again, but we also have the ability to set the arc voltage using a code.

There is more in the users guide available on our downloads page.

Leon

Scorpion,
Believe it or not I use Skirted sides, and a drum fan and thats it. I have virtually no smoke at all in the shop. I also have my son do the dirty job of blowing the machine off, and sweep up every night before we close (kids are good for the grunt work)
I found that tip spray like I use on my welders works great for slag not sticking to the tips. I will try and post pics of my setup as well, but dont crack on my computer station, quickly built out of 3/4 sanded plywood.
I'll wait for Leon to get back with me about the settings from DT.
once again you are the man and thanks!!!

Ed

Hey, I won't knock the skirted sides and drum fan. On my last table put an attic fan through the wall opposing a window right by the table (small room). The cross circulation kept any smoke from building up. It worked about as well as the air handler I have with this table. Big difference though is the cleanup. With the air handler I seem to clean it out nearly 1/3 as often as I did before. I'm guessing that more of the particulate is making it's way out the ceiling.

Tip spray...I have NO IDEA why I never thought of that. It almost makes too much sense. I will try it tomorrow and probably get another can for the plasma table. Great idea.

I'll never give a man a hard time about how he builds his shop. Right now I'm using wood as a spark sheild - you have nothing to worry about.


Do you ever find the need for using the fine cut tips?


Funny you should mention them. I ordered Hypertherm's starter pack today to give them a go. The 16ga that I cut with the standard 40amp consumables are making them hell to clean the dross off of. From what I've heard they should do the trick. I'll know next week.

Matt

Matt,
The 14 and 16 gauge I cut had almost no dross with the fine cuts. I asked cause you cut larger material then me. I tell ya that tip spray saved my tips big time, I even spray them after each nest of parts. Keep in mind I cut like 12 nested 16 gauge parts at a time..Give the plasma cutter a break and spray the tip again before the second run of 12. May be overkill just a tad, but hey tips=money right? The order of tips-electrodes-nozzles that just came in was $320 and thats not including the $147 for the fine cut tips.
I hear ya on clean up, thats why I had a son...;) He is 19 and I just put him through welding school, now Im showing him the Press brake and the shear. he still has a learning curve with the controller based back gauge. It WILL BE a long time for he touches Dads new toy!!!

We already incorporate automatic proportional slowdown (APS) in our newer software versions (see advanced settings page). This slows the cut in small holes proportional to the hole size. It also locks out the THC during these cuts to avoid crash from slower feedrates. This helps reduce bevel on bolt holes and slots but adds dross. Sorry, it's one or the other.


I use this and it works very well. I have found that if you have your initial speed set to minimize dross even the holes aren't very difficult to clean 3/16" and 1/4".


When possible, I also use extended consumables up to 1/4" plate. Then I switch to standard sheilded set for over 1/4" plate to reduce tip damage at pierce.


Extended consumables? What's the advantage for using them? I don't believe I've ever ordered/run a set but I have seen them in the consumables list.

Leon,
Thank you very much for your post between you and Matt I have a couple new cheat sheets to tack up on the computer station!!!

Matt,
The 14 and 16 gauge I cut had almost no dross with the fine cuts. I asked cause you cut larger material then me.

That will be awesome. I'm tired of cleaning those parts! I do mostly cut 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4" components but one of our products is heavy on the 16ga because it helps keep the weight down. If the dross is minimal on the 16ga then it will probably save me about 4 hours a week and that's a savings I can put dollars and cents to.

May be overkill just a tad, but hey tips=money right? The order of tips-electrodes-nozzles that just came in was $320 and thats not including the $147 for the fine cut tips.

I just received a box of consumables that cost about that much today. It's the consumable cost that drives me to spend as much time as I can figuring out ways to extend their life. The air dryer worked wonders and likely saved me the most. If Mike from Dynatorch is right and I can get a couple of weeks out of the fine cut consumables then I'll be flippin' out.

Matt

Matt,
Your settings for the 3/8's were dead on. I cut some upper a-arm mounts for the race cat shop behind me. I am very suprised at the quality, hardly any dross, and whats there came off easy with a wire wheel. Cant thank you enough. I am going to try some 1/4 later today.
Let me know how the tip spray worked for you, I know its saved my consumables so far.

Hey guys,
Also found out last night that when I spray the tips with the tip spray and also shoot a light coat on the steel it reduces the top splatter and also the dross. Should have bought one of these machines a year ago. For reference the same parts I cut out of 1/4 steel last night (for my wheelchair tiedown business) cost me $17. Those same parts from the waterjet company would have been $225. I am very pleased with a little clean up that amount of money can be saved. Will definately help the bottomline!!

Matt:
Did you try the tip spray yet? Oh and the settings for 1/4 were dead on too, I did adjust the feedrate a little slower but damn nice cutes. Thanks again!!

Edwardpic, scorpion, thanks for all the updates, thats a great idea to spray the tips. The cutting specs you guys posted along with Leon's are a great help for those of us who have not made the 1st cuts yets. I also like Leon's suggestion of the center slat support. I 'm right at the point in my table build where I can add that.

Magma,
Scorpion's (Matt) posted numbers are dead on. I personally used them myself with the exception of I used the fine cut tips for up to 12gauge.
**Tip Spray** Seems to be working great, I actually cut 4 full sheets, 5x10 1/4 thick and still the 60 amp tip looks like brand new. I ordered a case (6) today from the welding supply.
Now to get the settings right for 1/8 and 3/16 Aluminum I will be a happy camper. So far the parts I have cut for my companies I have saved $1900 VS having them waterjetted like before(in 1 week). Even made $150 from cutting some 3/8 thick upper A-arm brackets for the shop behind mine. Was a GOOD week.

Magma,
Scorpion's (Matt) posted numbers are dead on. I personally used them myself with the exception of I used the fine cut tips for up to 12gauge.
**Tip Spray** Seems to be working great, I actually cut 4 full sheets, 5x10 1/4 thick and still the 60 amp tip looks like brand new. I ordered a case (6) today from the welding supply.
Now to get the settings right for 1/8 and 3/16 Aluminum I will be a happy camper. So far the parts I have cut for my companies I have saved $1900 VS having them waterjetted like before(in 1 week). Even made $150 from cutting some 3/8 thick upper A-arm brackets for the shop behind mine. Was a GOOD week.

Sorry guys, haven't been around for a few days. I'm attempting to purchase a CNC Lathe so I've been a little distracted. ;)

Glad to hear that the settings worked for you. We sponsor a couple of race teams and they're constantly requesting we cut custom parts like that for them....

As for making money, a system like the Dynatorch certainly opens up some opportunity to do that. If you can cut, weld, form, and do your own CAD work (and powdercoat like some of you), your imagination is really your only limitation. I've never really tried to go back and figure out what the last table made me over the years but I can say that after using the Dynatorch for a month and a half, it has at least 3 times the potential as my last one and I haven't even dabbled in aluminum yet. Probably the most difficult part about having a table is figuring what to charge someone to put their napkin scratch into CAD. Our standard shop rate is $65 per hour but about a month ago we started charging $100 per hour for CAD work if they can't do it themselves. If we don't, we never make money.

I almost forgot to tell you guys this!! We're constantly trying to improve the quality of our parts and components and, even though the Dynatorch has some trick features for making holes more accurately, we've started to use the system to pierce the center of the critical holes only so they can be accurately punched in an iron worker after they come off the table. I've found that the smallest hole you can cut is .085 which leaves a beautiful round pin-hole that lines up with the punch-tip rather nicely. If you need holes to be tight around a bolt, try punching them after the table pierces them. It works awesome on 1/4" and smaller. 3/8" isn't bad but the pierce isn't as true though the plate. 1/2" isn't worth doing unless you have something bigger than a Powermax 1000. I'm sure a 1250 or larger would do much better.

Matt,
I hear you about what to charge, I made a few chicken scratch to Cad drawings for a few close friends. Seems in my neck of the woods people have heard that I have the table and have been just "stopping bye". It looks like a few local bike builders and car shops want me to do work for them. I was charging $73 per hour labor (Florida) but seems I'm going to bump it up to $95 an hour. It's wierd you cut one horse shape for a girl, now they all want stuff for their stalls, barns etc.
We have a 30ton punch press with dies, but I found that running a uni-bit through the holes after cutting is pretty quick. I did 30 parts today all had 5/16 and 3/8 holes, took all of 20 minutes. I was even thinking of selling the punch press, between the 8ft 50 ton press brake and the shear we hardly use it. Might even trade a guy by me for a Kalamazoo cold saw.
I am going to try some aluminum next week, I have some scrap 3/16 and a 4x10 sheet of 1/4 I bought 6 months ago and never used. Matt, you find anything out on aluminum please post and I'll post what I find, oh and let me know how you like the fine cut tips.
I'll try and post pics of what I cut so far next week as well.

I was recently looking at some info on a Hypertherm Arc Writer for marking parts. http://www.hypertherm.com/languages/english/arcwriter.php Do any of you guys know if you can just turn the amperage way down on the plasma and write or mark the surface of your material without cutting thru? The Hypertherm Arcwriter has its own torch which would require 2 torches on the machine, one for cutting and one for marking. It would be great if you could cut and mark with the same torch. Anybody ever try this or know of a way to use just one torch? I would like to mark my parts with my company logo.

Matt,
I hear you about what to charge, I made a few chicken scratch to Cad drawings for a few close friends. Seems in my neck of the woods people have heard that I have the table and have been just "stopping bye". It looks like a few local bike builders and car shops want me to do work for them. I was charging $73 per hour labor (Florida) but seems I'm going to bump it up to $95 an hour. It's wierd you cut one horse shape for a girl, now they all want stuff for their stalls, barns etc.
We have a 30ton punch press with dies, but I found that running a uni-bit through the holes after cutting is pretty quick. I did 30 parts today all had 5/16 and 3/8 holes, took all of 20 minutes. I was even thinking of selling the punch press, between the 8ft 50 ton press brake and the shear we hardly use it. Might even trade a guy by me for a Kalamazoo cold saw.
I am going to try some aluminum next week, I have some scrap 3/16 and a 4x10 sheet of 1/4 I bought 6 months ago and never used. Matt, you find anything out on aluminum please post and I'll post what I find, oh and let me know how you like the fine cut tips.
I'll try and post pics of what I cut so far next week as well.

We have an automatic cold saw. Nice machine. I think I'd trade it for an automatic bandsaw if I had a choice. The cold saw does leave a nice finish but you have to swap blades and turn them around when you go from .120 wall to the thicker stuff. Since we use .250 wall and solid stock for various components I'm always switching blades and it gets old. The cold saw is great if you're using it to make sleeves or something that requires no second process as the finish is machine quality ('cept the edges are sharp). Anyway, that's my $0.02 on a cold saw since you mentioned it.

Yeah I'll post info when I cut the aluminum. I was thinking of getting some on Monday and giving it a shot next week.


I was recently looking at some info on a Hypertherm Arc Writer for marking parts...

Does anyone have a price on this? It would appear to be a high-def component thus making it quite expensive. This is exactly what we need for as many parts as we have though. I couldn't find info about it on the net other than it's specs. Where can you buy it?


Do any of you guys know if you can just turn the amperage way down on the plasma and write or mark the surface of your material without cutting thru?


Unfortunately not. At some point turn your plasma all the way down and watch how it works on a piece of test material. What it does is gouge. Gouging is good for cutting a weld (so you don't penetrate the material held together by the weld) but due to the amount of blowback you get by an uncontrolled plasma stream, there's no way to harness it to make it etch. I wish you could.

Scorpion, I think the Arcwriter is around $3200.00. Seems like thats the price I was quoted about a year ago. I am going to check to be sure. It is only a 19 amp machine so it should'nt be to expensive.

Scorpion, I think the Arcwriter is around $3200.00. Seems like thats the price I was quoted about a year ago. I am going to check to be sure. It is only a 19 amp machine so it should'nt be to expensive.

I think $3200 is relatively expensive considering a Powermax 1000 can be had with machine torch for $2k plus shipping. Does anyone know anyone who's used an ArcWriter? I'm curious as to how long the consumables last. I found replacements on the net but they're nearly twice as much (expense) when compared to the PM1000. It would be awesome to be able to lay out a part completely in CAD making the assembly even less complicated than it already is for the welders.

Since it was requested, here is a set of conversions for metal gage to thickness. This is taken from my Central Steel & Wrie Co book.
All decimal thicknesses are in inches
Dashes (-) are used to separate columns only

Gage No.= NonFerrous(1)-Steel Sheet(2)-Strip/Tubing(3)-Steel Wire(4)
Ga= (1) (2) (3) (4)
3 = .2294 - .2391 - .259 - .2437
4 = .2043 - .2242 - .238 - .2253
5 = .1819 - .2092 - .220 - .2070
6 = .1620 - .1973 - .203 - .1920
7 = .1443 - .1793 - .180 - .1770
8 = .1285 - .1644 - .165 - .1620
9 = .1144 - .1495 - .148 - .1483
10=.1019 - .1345 - .134 - .1350
11=.0907 - .1196 - .120 - .1205
12=.0808 - .1046 - .109 - .1055
13=.0720 - .0897 - .095 - .0915
14=.0641 - .0747 - .083 - .0800
15=.0571 - .0673 - .072 - .0720
16=.0508 - .0598 - .065 - .0625
17=.0453 - .0538 - .058 - .0540
18=.0403 - .0478 - .049 - .0475
19=.0359 - .0418 - .042 - .0410
20=.0320 - .0359 - .035 - .0348
21=.0285 - .0329 - .032 - .0317
22=.0253 - .0299 - .028 - .0286
23=.0226 - .0269 - .025 - .0258
24=.0201 - .0239 - .022 - .0230
25=.0179 - .0209 - .020 - .0204
26=.0159 - .0179 - .018 - .0181
27=.0142 - .0164 - .016 - .0173
28=.0126 - .0149 - .014 - .0162
29=.0113 - .0135 - .013 - .0150
30=.0100 - .0120 - .012 - .0140
31=.0089 - .0105 - .010 - .0132
32=.0080 - .0097 - .009 - .0128
33=.0071 - .0090 - .008 - .0118
34=.0063 - .0082 - .007 - .0104
35=.0056 - .0075 - .005 - .0095
36=.0050 - .0067 - .004 - .0090

NonFerrous is Aluminum sheet, Brass(sheet/strip/wire/tube), Bronze(sheet/strip/wire), Copper (strip/tube/wire), Nickel Silver (sheet/wire)

Steel Sheets is Flat or coil, Hot roll or Cold roll

Tubing is Aluminum, steel, stainless steel, Bands, Flat wire, Strip (steel and stainless), spring steel sheet

Steel Wire is all finishes

-Leon-

Got my refrigerated air dryer hooked up this weekend, with a Coalescing filter in front of it, and a desiccant filter just before the plasma. I fired up a new 40A fine cut tip, anxiously expecting some of the long life that Dyna and others have mentioned. The first tip only went my typical 10 minutes of cut time like usual, and second tip went even less! I tried another new tip today, and it seems to be holding up a little better, but still only at about 12 minutes with it.

A couple possibilities include that I may still have some dampness in the lines between the dryer and the plasma - about 25 feet of 3/4" pipe. It seems funny to me that my Eaton #28 dryer is only running about 25# to 35# of pressure - I assume this is the pressure of it's own internal compressor, but isn't this awful low? What do your dryers run for pressure? Maybe I need a freon charge?

Ric,
Wow only 12 minutes? I just cut 3 sheets of 1/4 with a 60 amp tip and lasted through all 3 sheets and that was = to 45 parts. I am at a loss as to why your tips are going so quick. I dont use the ref dryer, but I do have a 3 stage filter system and my shop compressor is OLD and does produce alot of water, yet my plasma air is bone dry.
The tips I have trashed are mainly due to me, and not having the corrct SP voltage and thus diving. The 40 and 60 amp tips last along time for me at least, the only ones that go quick have been the fine cuts, but once again thats probably me and the settings for cut height. Even then I can cut a couple 5x10 sheets of either 14 or 16 gauge and not burn a tip.
I have been buying my tips from weldersource.com, and just received some 40amp unsheilded tips to try this week. I let the machine rest for a couple days, seeing how I cut every peice of sheet steel I had here last week. Good to go on parts now for 2 months.

November 3 2006 A new version of our software is now available. Version 320214 Fixed a problem if a DXF file was smaller than 1K in size. It also adds the G25 Zx.xxx (where x.xxx is a POSITIVE number) This will force the torch to make an incremental move up at the end of the cut path. The distance it moves up is the x.xxx value. Previous versions allowed G25 Z-x.xxx (-x.xxx. as a NEGATIVE number) which would move the torch to the -x.xxx value. This was an absolute move since the torch normally travels between 0 and -4.0, it was along that scale. Since adding the Z command to the every line of code with e G25 may be cumbersome, and not supported by all post processors, we also added a global, one time command to raise the torch an incremental amount. That command is M125 Px.xxx where x.xxx is the incremental distance the torch should raise when it reaches the end of the path. So if the torch was at -2.75 at the time the path ends, and the command M125P0.5 was issued at the beginning of the code, then it would raise to -2.25". And every time the G25 command is read again in the file, the torch will raise 0.5" from it's current location. For safety reasons it will never go above the home value (0). The M125 command will remain in effect until the complete file has been run, or a P value <= 0 is issued. The global M125 command will override (take precedence over) any G25Xx.xx command.

Greg - I will download the latest version, as I have been getting some errors while cutting. I am working with Mike and Leon to try and troubleshoot.

I finally got the Hypertherm tech on the phone yesterday regarding my short consumable life, went through parts and assembly issues first, then air quality (both OK) - he thinks it might be some circuit board problem in the power supply. I am trying to get a replacement machine to try - sure hope it works.

OK, I give up - how do you download the latest Dynatorch software?

Hey Ric,
You have to send me an e-mail. I will reply back to you with the correct link. greg@dynatorch.com

Scorpion, I posted the question about the Hypertherm Arcwriter on the Yahoo forum, it appears to be a 3 phase only machine. Read Jim Colt's post "Jim works for Hypertherm" about the Arcwriter. http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/plasmacutting/message/2946

Bossfrog, have you figured out your short life consumables problem? I am still considering buying the same Eaton dryer unit as yours. Thanks...

I talked to Hypertherm's tech support - their questions:
1. Correct swirl ring, torch assembly, and proper amps? yup, yup, yup
2. Dry air? yup
3. Suspect a circuit board problem in power unit.
They gave me a brand new plasma and took mine to the shop, and I am going to try it this weekend. It seems to me that since they jumped to that answer so quickly, there must be an outstanding issue with some of these Powermax 1000 units. I will post an update after I fire it up.

Ric,

Keep us informed on your c-board issues. My 1650 is on its third board and Hypertherm says they've fixed the problem.

Hypertherm has 1st class customer service.

Good luck,

Tom

Fired up the new Hypertherm 1000, and have run probably 40 minutes of cut time so far on the first tip - the other machine burned up tips after 10 minutes. Hopefully it will keep going longer...

BTW - I have been burning up nozzles so fast, I don't know how to identify a bad electrode. Do you switch them with the nozzles, or is there a way to determine when it is done?

Congrats Ric on the new machine working for you. I have a PM 1000 so Ill be looking for a problem like you described. I was told that 3 to 4 tips per electrode is a good starting point, but there is alot of variables. When I trashed a few tips from diving I changed the electrode, I look for a "PIT" or indentation on the electrode, Ive done this with my smaller handheld plasma for years. Try the tip spray as well, its worked wonders for me so far. Really keeps the slag off the tip/sheild.
heres the settings I found for 16 gauge:
Machine: 40 amp
Consumables: fine cut
SP: 100
Feedrate: 120-125
Start height: 3/16
Pierce delay: .25
Hardly any slag at all and great cuts. I bumped the SP up to 110 and the feedrate down to 110 for 14 gauge.

I think I read somewhere and even saw some pictures of ugly looking electrodes that were still OK. Thought there was a measurement of how deep the core burns back in before it is shot - 3/32" or something? I am wondering if there is a measuring tool to use for this? I started gouging once this weekend with a newer nozzle and an older electrode, changed the electrode and it started working again.

Hypertherm recommends 79V THC and 135IPM for 14ga with finecut. I have been running 80V and about 110 - 120IPM. Yours works good with a THC of 100 - 110? That seems high, but might be why I burn up nozzles more often. Maybe I should increase my THC settings...

Ric,
I cut some decorative peices with alot of curves and worked great with those settings. I was told by Leon that increase HT recomended voltage by 5 and to decrease the recomened speeds by as much as 20 to 25%. The settings I used were right in the ballpark, and no tip discolortion or ovaling. I cut 15 parts out at approx 14 wide X 20 high and still have more left in the tips. The tip spray helped alot as well.

Bossfrog, did the new plasma solve your short consumable problem? There have been no new posts on the Dynatorches in the last few days. Scorpion, Edwardpic, and Bossfrog, did you guys get all the bugs worked out and running smooth? Whats your opinion of the Dynatorch now that you have had a chance to get up to speed? I'm still working on my table and I plan on installing a air dryer before I start cutting. Thanks...

Magma,
All bugs with my system are gone. Mostly was a small learning curve and sharing information between us Dynatorch users. I use our machine daily, and have cut over 300 parts out so far. Tips are lasting along time which means the consumables cost has been very low. Ive cut everything from 16G to 3/8 mild steel, and have dabbled in some 3/16 aluminum. Im basically getting sheetcam and corel down, and the DT software is a breaze to use/understand. No problems with dry air or the PM 1000. I dont use a downdraft table like some users, I use a 24" axial paint both fan on one end pulling the smoke out one of my shop doors. No smoke when cutting to speak of, and all the horror stories of filling the shop with smoke and black film have been null for me. One thing I did do was to enclose the longer X axis sides with some 18 gauge galvanized to keep sparks under the table and not spreading out from the bottom. I use the DT software along side with sheetcam and the results for kerf comp, nesting, cut paths have been awesome. Hope that helps and I still have to post some pics of cut parts soon. I am backed up 12 vehicles with my business, and am also in the process of a total re-design of my electric wheelchair securement tie-down. We do alot of structural modifications on Silverado trucks for the handicapped, and make brackets for actuated remote control door operation. You guys can see what type of fabcrication we do on my website listed below. We are in the proto stages of the Dodge mega-cab as well as a wheelchair accessible Hummer. Needless to say this CNC plasma will make all future designs alot easier as time is money!!!

Hypertherm replaced my Powermaxx 1000, and it works great now. Was using a nozzle every 10 minutes like clockwork, now I must have hours on this nozzle without a problem. Sounds like a circuit board problem with THC. Thanks to Edwardpic, bumped up my THC on 14 ga to 90 (from 80) and everything working great!

Just bought Torchmates software to try and seems like a nice program. I have been using Sheetcam and Love It, also Corel draw works great, especially the Corel trace. I made a sign for my shop entrance and it cam out nice. I also am using the CandCNC DXF converter and thats saved alot of time as well. I have noticed that some of the traces the lines/arcs are not smooth and a little ragged when cut. Havent dolved into that yet.
I must say that after all the learning curves and software, all Dynatorch users need is a great forum like this to share idea's cutting settings and Sheetcam. The Dyna software and sheetcam together is a very easy way to nest parts and create the Post Proccessors needed. The library feature in the Dyna software is also a time saver-get the setting correct-save it-then everytime you cut that material its ready to go. I'm very happy and the machine has already saved me thousands.

Edwardpic, I have been looking at the new software package that Dynatorch is offering. It's called WE-CIM. It has some real time saving features for the manufacturing area. One feature is called chain cutting, where the torch makes one pierce and continues the cut from part to part on a nested sheet(inside holes excluded of course) without stopping until the last part is finished. Seems like a consumables as well as time saver. Also has True Shape Nesting and a program to scan sketches for raster to vector conversion. I think I am going to purchase it so I'll let you know how well it works.

Thanks Magma. I went with Sheetcam because the cut path-nesting and kerf compensation is quick and easy. I have not found the need for the more expensive WE-CIM software. Corel trace does all the raster-vector conversions we use. The WE-CIM looks like am awesome program, but I wanted to keep my costs down at the outset.

I had purchased the EnRoute software per DynaTorch's suggestion. Pricey, but does all my conversions from DXF's and BMP into vector, allows simple modifications of the vector files, toolpaths, and nests. Nice to be all in one package, but it is too bad I bought just before their new software WE-CIM. I hate going with "last year's" model of anything, but too late now.

Just bought Torchmates software to try and seems like a nice program. I have been using Sheetcam and Love It, also Corel draw works great, especially the Corel trace. I made a sign for my shop entrance and it cam out nice. I also am using the CandCNC DXF converter and thats saved alot of time as well. I have noticed that some of the traces the lines/arcs are not smooth and a little ragged when cut. Havent dolved into that yet.
I must say that after all the learning curves and software, all Dynatorch users need is a great forum like this to share idea's cutting settings and Sheetcam. The Dyna software and sheetcam together is a very easy way to nest parts and create the Post Proccessors needed. The library feature in the Dyna software is also a time saver-get the setting correct-save it-then everytime you cut that material its ready to go. I'm very happy and the machine has already saved me thousands.

Hi, if you post a .CDR over on the CandCNC forum I will be happy to look at any issues you might have with roughness. I am the author of the CandCNC DXFTool and I am always looking to improve the product, or for suggestions for new features. Is the roughness coming from a high node count from CorelTrace? Are you using V12 or X3?

I have recently joined the forum and was just reading through the post and thought I would offer some advice. I am currently using a Power Max 1250 with a Plasma Cam system. I have used many sets of Hypertherm consumables and have been somewhat disappointed with the life of consumables. I tried Thermacut consumables, which outlast Hypertherm consumables 2 to 1 if not more. It would be worth looking into. Thermacut recommends using their swirl ring.

On another note I am considering purchasing a Dyna torch machine and would like to speak with someone. Any contact info or opinions would be appreciated.

Matt - do Thermacut tips fit Hypertherm machine torches? I would be interested in trying some if they last longer.

For Dynatorch info, you could contact Greg, Walt, or any of the guys from Dyna, or I am sure Edwardpic, MagmaJoe, Scorp, or I would be willing to talk to you as users. Let us know what you need...

Thermacut consumables do fit the machine torch. I think you will be very impressed.

Mat T, if you are looking to upgrade I think the dynatorch gives alot of options. You can buy just the gantry and build your own table or buy both from Dynatorch. I looked at the Plasmacam and all the others before choosing Dynatorch. I wanted to be able to cut a full 5x10 sheet without indexing the sheet so that ruled out the plasma cam. I decided to build my own table and used their gantry. I also liked the Dynatorch FREE lifetime tech support. Any questions I have had were quickly answered. I can't comment on how well it performs as I am about 2 hours away from finishing it although before I decided to purchase it I went to a local shop using a Dynatorch 5x10 with the air handler system to cut 28 gage galvanized for HVAC. The owner said he had been using it about 6 hrs a day 5 days a week for the last year with no problems, and liked the machine. Servo motors with planetary gear boxes, FREE lifetime tech support, all steel tables in all sizes including dropsides, these were just a few of the things that I thought separated Dynatorch from the other players in this price range. I have learned a great deal from others on this forum so I thought I would include some pictures of my table to share with others who might be interested in building a table also.The frame is 3" x 8" X 3/16" tubing. I bought the leg levelers at ENCO. I built an 8" deep water tray inside of the frame from a 6' x 12' sheet of 12 gage. The guide rails are 3" x 3" x 3/16" square tube. I then mounted 3/4" x 2" cold rolled bar on top of the square tube for a straight and rigid mounting surface for the gear rack and v rail. I also had one edge on each bar surface ground before installing them so they would be as straight as possible.. As for the table slats I am going to try out the pointed tips versus no points on the slats, thats why only half of the slats are pointed. The computor cabinet started life as a Sears gladaitor tool box, I just added a hood cover for the monitor and a table extension to hold the Dynatorch box and the keyboard. Since this table is not a drop side I bought some 8' fork extensions for my forklift. These work good for light gage material, I just slide the material on and off the top of the forks. For heavy gage I plan on using 2 permanent lifting magnets. Since this is my first table I'm sure I have overlooked something but its probably a little late now? Thanks to everyone who contributes to this forum as I have used many ideas I read here on my table.

Magma,

Well Done ! I have a seven year old Torchmate that will be replaced with a Dynatorch. Your photographs are excellent! I second your comments about Dynatorch too.

Tom

Magma,
I did notice one issue that you may have to address later. The Plasma power supply is suspiciously close to your PC. Even when in a metal cabinet, there is a possibility that the plasma electrical feild will interfere with the PC. Distance is your best freind. We recommend a minimum of 5 ft between the two units. If you get errors when the plasma fires, try moving the two apart. While it is convinient to place them close together, the PC and the Plasma are not good room-mates. The PC will loose out every time. Just a thought. Other than that, you have a fabulous table frame. I don't think anything will ever affect it.

Leon

Hi Leon, thanks for your advice on the distance between the plasma power supply and the computor as I was unaware of the possible interference within 5'. It is hard to see in the picture but lucky for me the cabinet has wheels so it can be moved any direction up to 10' away. When I built it I was'nt sure where the best location for the cabinet would be so I made it mobile. My shop ventilation air travels across the table lengthwise to exhaust out the door and I wanted the cabinet (and me:) ) to be in the fresh air side. Thanks for the feedback Leon and Plasmaguy!

Thanks for sharing the pictures of your table. That is an excellent looking table. I am sure you will get many years of use from it.

Rick

Magma,
I did notice one issue that you may have to address later. The Plasma power supply is suspiciously close to your PC. Even when in a metal cabinet, there is a possibility that the plasma electrical feild will interfere with the PC. Distance is your best freind. We recommend a minimum of 5 ft between the two units. If you get errors when the plasma fires, try moving the two apart. While it is convinient to place them close together, the PC and the Plasma are not good room-mates. The PC will loose out every time. Just a thought. Other than that, you have a fabulous table frame. I don't think anything will ever affect it.

Leon

Distance only works to reduce radiated noise (RFI). The heaviest point of radiated noise is at the arc. Good grounding and sheilding at the plasma unit and galvanic isolation (opto or relay isolation) of signals between the PC and control will go farther in reducing problems. In newer plasma units there is no electrical "field" of any distance around the unit. The source of most noise that can cause computer or controller errors is in the form of conducted noise (noise that travels on a common connection).

The biggest challenge is to use a HF start unit close to the motor controllers or the PC. It can be done and within a couple of feet if the grounds are not allowed to be connected or there is a low impedence (to earth ground) central "star" ground that everything is tied to individually. (one or the other).

Distance only works to reduce radiated noise (RFI). The heaviest point of radiated noise is at the arc. Good grounding and sheilding at the plasma unit and galvanic isolation (opto or relay isolation) of signals between the PC and control will go farther in reducing problems. In newer plasma units there is no electrical "field" of any distance around the unit. The source of most noise that can cause computer or controller errors is in the form of conducted noise (noise that travels on a common connection).

The biggest challenge is to use a HF start unit close to the motor controllers or the PC. It can be done and within a couple of feet if the grounds are not allowed to be connected or there is a low impedence (to earth ground) central "star" ground that everything is tied to individually. (one or the other).

Torchhead, thanks for that information. After reading your other posts I realize that you are the only one who could correct the manufacturer on their own machine.

I havent been on here much lately, but anyone who wants to call and ask any questions is fine. I love my machine and havent had any real issues other then a small learning curve.

727-639-1411 or whome124@aol.com

magma, thanks for the info and pics, thumbs up for the great job on the table. I believe I will go with the dynatorch.

You'll be glad you did... And I don't even own one... yet :)

Fellas,

Sent my deposit check today for the DynaTorch 4 x 8 Drop side, Air handler, and 1250 Hypertherm with sheetcam. Hope I made the right decision. Now the hard part begins, the wait.

Tom

Tom,
You will love the machine, and yes the wait can kill you. You want to start cutting now!!! We are here as Dynatorch owners and we can help along with the guys from Dynatorch. We all have shortcuts and some settings already for certain thicknesses of metel. Look on this thred for previous posts and print out any information you need. Cant wait to hear your cutting!!

Tom, I made the first cuts with my Dynatorch. Right out of the box it made some nice cuts in 1/4" hot rolled steel. Leon at Dynatorch will walk you through the machine software set up all the way to making some test cuts. I purchased the WE-CIM software from Dynatorch also. Now comes the learning curve other users have talked about. I think all of us sharing information is a huge help. Thanks to everyone. I will post more as I get to know the machine and software more.

I have already designed some parts in Bobcad that I want to cut. I am going to go to dynatorch and spend a little time with Walt running the software and machine when I pick it up. The sharing of knowlege on this site is great and Im sure it will come in handy very soon. Looking forward to the challange. Stupid question, is there a post for Bobcad to run the Dynatorch? Or is the Dynatorch/Sheetcam software a better option?

I cant say that its a "better" option. But I will say sheetcam is one of the easiest programs to use for nesting-kerf comp etc. I use Autocad 2005, Dyna software, Corel Draw-Trace, and Sheetcam. I find I mostly use sheetcam and the dyna software. That may be because i already have my business Cad done. Corel is another great option and with CandCNC's DXF exporter it smotths alot of Autocads lines. Hope that helps!!!

Wow I am amazed with the table if you dont mide could you tell me about how much you have into just the making of the table, I am about to start on one and would like one just like it.

Dynatorch users with WE-CIM,

Just wanted to add a post so I could offer my expertise with WE-CIM. I have been a user for over five years using the software to program / create nests for lasers, punch and plasma machines. The software is capable of doing some amazing things from building a nest from an Excel spread sheet to custom nest reporting to name a few.

I will do my best to keep tabs and answer question anyone may have.

Independent CNC Programmer
www.ctcn.net/~3kings/

Gledhill, I did'nt keep track exactly of the cost. I think that the materials were less than $1200.00 not including the slats. I used ABOUT 50 ft of 3"x8" X 3/16 tube, 36 ft of 1 1/2 " x 3" x 3/16" channel, 24' 2x3 x 3/16 angle, 24' of 3x3 x 3/16 square tube and for the water tray, 1 sheet of 12 gage hot rolled 6' x 12' and 36' of 3/16 x 8" for the tray sides. The 6 leg adjusters were about 25.00 each. It was a one man job however the 12' pieces of 3x8 tube were just about the limit for me weight wise.

Hello everybody:

First of all happy holidays and prosperous new year.

i like know some user of dynatorch in spain or Your France. to interchange opinions
I want to buy a table of 6x10 with oxyfuel and accesory of pipes.
I request me opinions about the functioning of this accessory and of the quality of court(cut) of the machine.

Another doubt is if with a few basic knowledges it is possible to make work the machine and repair it in case of breakdown, since I live far enough and is to begin problem that I have.

All the years the machine can work without giving problems and as it is the cut in unoxidizable steel they are other doubts that I have.

Hello fellas... I have been reading the forum here for some time now and decided on a Dynatorch system with with the drop side table with there down draft system. I ordered it Thursday. I will be building my table this week. If you have any suggestions or input on the table it would be greatly appreciated. As in changes or something you would have done different. Thanks!


Sam

Sam, Look at some of the earlier posts and print out the suggestions for different thicknesses of steel. They were pretty dead on and a couple of us have posted what we have found as far as; cut speed-tip-set point voltage, peirce delay etc.
Welcome to the Dynatorch family and you will definately love the machine. I have been using my non stop, and have saved thousands. One recomendation I can give that worked for me is DRY DRY air, this will save tips and make the cuts alot smoother. Also, try and use welders tip spray on the plasma tips before cutting, this will keep most of the slag from sticking during the peirce and has definately saved me money in consumables.

Hello all,

I have "Thread Idis" from reading so much!! I want to thank Leon and Walt and the guys at Dynatorch for letting me come and see and talk with them about the product.

I purchased a Dropside 5x10 table with a Cutmaster 151 torch. I am pumped like others to get the system. I am still building my shop as they build my machine!! I will post some pics of the shop as it comes together and ask for ideas.

I like the posts and will also be posting questions and answers here. My specialty is PC/Server systems (MCSE from Microsoft).

I have always worked metal and did PC's for a living. These two married in this format will be nice.

I can't say enough about the folks at Dynatorch. After all the thought and planning their system was for me a turn key solution that will allow me to get busy from the start.

I considered kits and building my own table, but the whole system ready to go for the price was what made me buy the table and gantry complete.

I can also tell you from touching machines ( I went and saw the PlasmaCam in person) that the Dynatorch machine is far superior. I also saw a Torchmate 3 and was not impressed with the belt drive system.

I had to decide if I wanted my curve to be on the use of the system or figuring out how to assemble the system. Also for that matter on building one from scatch. I saw too many folks who have worked for months and jave no working system yet. I decided cutting steel is what I needed to do and not build machines. I will let Leon, Mike and the guys at DT handle that part.

Anyway, off to hang steel.

Mike

Hello Everybody:

Only I need to solve a doubt that I have. I am going to buy a table of plasma cnc and am doubting between(among) torchmate and dynatorch, for this I beg(request) indicate advantages and disadvantages to me of both, this way as which it is better for you.

Then i will like that you were commenting on me if you there was very difficult the process of assembly(montage) and putting in march. Because I know a torchmate user in spain that can help me, but nobody of dynatorch

A greeting and thanks for everything.

Just curious what you guys are using for PC control (laptop, desktop, processor speed, etc.).

Also, is anyone using the wireless version of the remote?

Thanks,
Jimmy

Ed,
Thanks for the input, but that was not quite what I was asking. What I meant was the actual fabrication of the table. Not a big deal. I built it per Dynatorch's drawing. I finished it today. Now I am just waiting for them to deliver. I am sure I will have a wave of questions coming soon...... hang tight! Thanks!

Sam

Just curious what you guys are using for PC control (laptop, desktop, processor speed, etc.).

Also, is anyone using the wireless version of the remote?

Thanks,
Jimmy

Hey all, it's been awile.

Initially I had a P4 3gig machine (or close) that I was planning on using for my Dynatorch. As it turned out, the Dynatorch requires dual serial connections (there is a work around using a serial to usb). Since I didn't want to have to wait to get the USB adapter, I plugged in my old P3 500mhz w/ 1 gig of ram and Windows XP just to do my first cut. I never did purchase that adapter and the P3 500 hasn't skipped a step.

I do have the wireless version of the remote (game contoller) and it works as if there were a wire. For the most part I only use it to rip sheets as I've found it's nearly impossible to free-hand cuts with any accuracy. For the most part I cut what I need then trim the drop from the full sheet so it can go back on the material rack. Since I started using the controller I no longer have drops on the rack - only in the scrap pile. Makes it much easier to measure for the next run too.

Matt

Now that I have months of use under my belt I'm starting to see a trend with consumable life. It would appear that the settings I originally posted for 1/4" plate (sheilded consumables, 70ipm, 60amps, 3/16 pierce, etc) is spot on. My consumables seem to last for quite some time regularly. What seems to be eluding me is the 3/16" setting. I still believe that 80ipm, 60amps, 3/16" pierce, etc) is very close to the correct setup though I cannot obtain a dross free cut like I can on the 1/4". I've also noticed that consumable life is inconsistent at this setting unlike the 1/4". What I mean by this is that every so often the nozzle gets a little tweak in it and the stream starts to work at it until it's cutting more like a fan. This only happens on the 3/16" setting. I'll be back to this in a second.

I've also cut with some finecut on 1/8" at both 50 amps and 40 amps (per Hypertherm's spec). As far as I can tell, Hypertherm's spec is spot on in either way. Anyway, what I noticed is that the lower amp/slower feed setting leaves a far better cut AND consumable life appears to be nearly double what it is on the faster setting.

So my question is, has anyone cut 3/16" with shielded consumables at 40amps with more success than the 60amp ones? I'm not excited about intentionally slowing the machine down just to improve cut quality since the faster setting already yields an excellent cut, but I am wondering if it would increase consumable life. If it does, I want someone to tell me why in the world it does because I can't, for the life of me, figure out why it would.

Faster at higher amps takes less time but burns hotter.
Slower at lower amps takes longer which has to nullify the lower amp setting.

Maybe I'm just thinking too much.

Matt

matt,
I use your settings for 3/16 you posted and get hardly any dross and very clean cuts. I have tried the 40 amp tips but they seem to burn out quicker with the thicker 3/16. I have more settings problems with the finecuts cutting 14 and 16 gauge then anything. Seems it always takes a tweak here and there to stay consistant. I do however use the 60amp unsheilded tips, they seems to get a better cut and less kerf then sheilded.
If you get the fine cuts down please post some results. I do however notice that welders tip spray or even pam works for keeping the dross down on the tip from splatter and extends the life of the consumables. I have cut alot of 3/16-1/4 and 3/8's lately...your setting for the 3/8's is balls on and also the 1/4, i did however lower the set point voltage down to 125/128 seemed a little better.
have a great day all!!!

Sorry if the wording or typing on the last post was off, had a 20ton press explode yesterday and took my left hand with it. Cut all the tendons in my left thumb and forefinger....gotta say that was a shock...gotta put humpty dumpty back together again!!!!

I spoke to a customer today cutting mostly 3/16 and 1/4 inch material for military contract parts. He says he switched to Thermacut direct replacement consumables. These have a different electrode design that does not use the "swirl". He is using these in combination with the Thermacut swirl ring and claims 2-3X the life of consumables with very good cut quality. I can't say that I have any experience with these yet but will try them out asap. I can say I do trust his word however.

The web site is www.thermacut.com you may further look at the pdf page http://www.thermacut.info/upload/pdf/template_brochure_final.pdf
Rumor is that this was Zap plasmatherm previously. I used to buy from them in the past. Just thought that some of you might want to look into this and post if you like/hate them. Apparently, they have both the standard OEM design and their own to offer. Don't know prices yet but a call tomorrow will find that out.

Leon

Sorry if the wording or typing on the last post was off, had a 20ton press explode yesterday and took my left hand with it. Cut all the tendons in my left thumb and forefinger....gotta say that was a shock...gotta put humpty dumpty back together again!!!!

Ouch. Sorry to hear that. Until you hurt your hands you never really realize exactly how much it slows you down. Is everything healable?

...Thermacut direct replacement consumables...

Very interesting. I've noticed that my consumables seem to "wear out" about the same time that the discoloration takes over about 75% of the electrode and nozzle. Seems the only time that they don't dis-color is when you're running under the rated amps with them (say running 50 amps through a 60 amp setup).

I think I'll order some next week and give them a try. I am curious about cut quality more so that longevity. That may be just because I don't truely understand exactly how it all works (other than what Thermacut has on their website).

Leon, let us know what you think after you run them. Please be critical of cut quality so we have a good opinion from more than one person.

Thanks for the heads up!

Matt,
yes everything is healable, but will only gain back about 75% use of it. I go Monday coming up to get cut on. You are dead on on not realizing how much a hand injury can throw you for a loop fabrication wise.
I am also going to order some of the other brand tips and electrodes. I like their technology, but havent used them directly yet. I have had great luck with consumable life so far, maybe because I check and recheck the setting s as I cut and have tones of scrap notes all over the computer desk. As you can tell my orginizational skills arent the best.
Overall, great machine, love the cuts, and most of all have saved/made alot of money with it so far.
I would love to see a post with the thermacut consumables that lists the figured out settings for the gauges of steel we all seem to be cutting. RE: 16,14,12, 3/16, 1/4 and 1/2. Till then I'll keep on keepin on.

Be well all

I recently completed my custom built 5x10 table for the Dynatorch gantry. (I posted some pictures earlier in this thread). Like many of you before me I discovered the steep learning curve. I started with zero experience of Cad Cam software or running a CNC plasma. I must say from a beginners stand point its alot to learn. Once it starts coming together and you start seeing your ideas transformed into parts cut on the table its a great feeling. I have been very happy with the Dynatorch. It has nearly all the features of machines costing 4 times what I paid. I think one of the coolest features is the joystick operation and the laser indicator. When I put the machine together I hooked up a wireless joystick to the computer. Like anyone starting out I wanted to expierment with cutting small parts with different speeds, feeds, etc. I started with operating the machine from the main control. I would jog the machine to where I thought I wanted to start the cut to start, run to the end of the table, check, and run back to the main control , adjust, check again and so forth. Alot of work and alot of wasted material as I never could be quite sure how close I really was to the edge of the material when I zeroed the machine for a new cut on the small piece of material. I also wanted to watch the start of the cut cycle and running from the main control to the end of the table was'nt any fun either. I then installed the joystick and laser indicator and discovered that I could completely run the table with the wireless joystick. I had a sheet full of cuts with little space left, but with the laser I could lay a sample of the small pieces I had been cutting on the sheet (which had so many cuts it did'nt look like you could fit another one) locate it with the cross hairs and run the whole operation while standing at the end of the table!. For any of you who have not tried the joy stick it rocks.

Fella's

Well my Dynatorch table is here, and we hve made a few cuts. So far so good. I need to get my exhaust fan up and running before I cut too much, wow that sure makes some smoke! I am setting up my software and am having a few questions. Any Sheetcam users out there? I just need a few steps to get me going. I downloaded the tutorials from sheetcams website, what a mess that is or I am just stupid. The files are all zipped, when they are unzipped, I get seperate files for the pictures and files for the wording, am I supposed to guess which pictures go where? Now with the Dynatorch, seems to be all they said it to be. I need to get the fine cut consumeable kit, I have the Hypertherm 1250 with only 80 amp tips, should i buy the kit or just a sampling of the tips?

More Later

Thanks

Tom

prechtel,

Once you have used fine cut you will not go back.. If you cut a lot of thin stuff the 40,60,80 amps tips are well, usless. Unless you are cutting for HVAC.

All the art type signs you see getting around all can be cut with fine cut nozzles, and will give the best result hands down.

I really really doubt that you could cut with an 80 amp nozzle with the machine set at 80 amps cutting say 14-16ga and get clean, fancy intricate cuts.

Peter
Australia

Hey gang - it's me, Boss Frog. I am still running my Dynatorch, works pretty good, but I still have a huge kerf on my 7ga parts. I was just looking at the consumables for my Hypertherm 1000, and it occurred to me that I think I have been running the shield for the hand torch!!! That would explain why I can never seem to get my THC number down as low as you guys - the shield is probably dragging!

My question is for your fellow Hypertherm users - are you using the shielded setup with standard nozzles, or the unshielded setup with extended nozzles (60A)?

I feel the my consumable life seems very short, but it could be because I have been running it too high off the sheet. I ordered a 120930 shield for a machine torch, and hopefully that will make a difference...

Edwardpic - how's the hand? Anybody try the Thermacut consumables yet?

A heads up for others who are using the fine cut nozzles on the machine torch. The Hypertherm catalog for the machine torch shows the swirl ring part #120925 being used with the fine cut nozzles as well as all other nozzles for the machine torch. This swirl ring has large holes. Hypertherm sells a Finecut kit for the hand torch which comes with a different swirl ring, pt#220927 which has small holes. I had been using the swirl ring with the large holes with the finecut nozzles on my Dynatorch with a Hypertherm 1250 and a machine torch. This setup was just as shown in the Hypertherm machine torch diagram (large hole swirl ring w/ finecut nozzle). I just could'nt get good cuts with this set up. I thought I would try the small hole swirl ring for the hand torch in my machine torch instead and the results were like night and day. I spoke with the Hypertherm tech and mentioned this and he confirmed that other machine torch users had reported the same thing. Here is the Hypertherm diagram https://www.hypertherm.com/Xnet/library/DocumentLibrary.jsp?format=pdf&file=/u01/app/oracle/library/Manuals/Service Manual (SM)/803940r4.pdf

Magma:
I checked the manuals and with my vendor, and can't find the 220937 swirl ring. They do list a different swirl ring for finecut - a 220327 - is that what you mean?

Sorry Bossfrog, thats my mistake, you are correct on the part number it is a 220327.
Magma Joe

magma-joe,

What was the difference in the cuts that you had noticed?

Peter
Australia

I did find one of the hand-torch swirl rings, and tried it today on some 16ga. It seems a little better, but I wouldn't say it was a huge difference. I would be happy if it increased the life a little...

Hello all back from Paducha with my Machine! Shops comin together and power man is for hookup this week!

I'm telling you I got to spend the day with the guys and gals and it was even Walt's B'day.

I also got to go hang out with Matt (He builds the gantries) and see him jam at a cool bar called Fat Moe's and have luch with Greg.

I will tell all I am still certian this was the best choice for the investment. I'm still reading about people who have been building their own machines and have tons of dollars and time invested.

I'm going to start setting up my PC with all the software so the schedule track together and the machines gets mounted to the floor and ready to go at the same time.

One cool thing I saw in the shop in KY was a whole was drilled next to the table thru the concrete and an extra ground rod was driven into the ground next to the machine to insure ground.

I'll post a few pics from my visit. My base website is up at http://www.practicalmetal.com. Check it out as it grows. I'll be bacj with more progress.

I also want everyone to know I've been scraping for years for my shop and also worked hard to get my table. It all just came together at the same time.

I again want to mention and thank all the guys at DT who let me spend the day and work with the equipment. I was cutting unassisted in just a few hours and even helped do a tube cutter changeover for another customer visit. Those who visit in the future, as you walk in the door the 22 inch galloping horse was the pattern I cut out. I measured with the machine software and saw my pieces of steel was to small and used the software to scale the ptn file to fit. Then cut the pattern and never left the table. I will also say get the joystick it is awsome.

Later

Hey Ric,
had the surgery yesterday to repair the tendons in the hand...hopefully i will be back up and running soon...cant take the pain meds cause they make me sick, so yes i am in a huge amount of pain.
ya know i just noticed the swirlring difference myself..i have been using the normal one lately and forgot to change it...silly me..although the cuts were really nice still on the 14 and 16 gauge sheets...i did by the fine cute kit and blew the dust off of it and found i had 6 swirlrings for the finecuts...guess i got in too much of a hurry to cut parts out....Ric, my 3/16 has hardly any kerf to it...use scorpians settings they are balls on....i cut some 3/8's and was a beautiful cut....i havent used the machine in about 2 weeks, been staying away from machinery and found that gauze really catches fire when you weld!!!

i need to order more tips soon, i really want to try the different manufacturers and see what if any improvement i see...ill try and check back ive been sparse on here as of late

happy cutting all!!!!

Ric,
Sorry forgot to answer your question from previous post...i am running unsheilded wih extended tips, as well as unsheilded with the sheilded tips..i ahve to say the unsheilded for me works/cuts better...i just spray the tips before each session of cuts with welders tip spray...makes them last alot longer from the splatter not sticking.

Edwardpic - Thanks for the updates. I had one extended tip, so I ran it last week unshielded (60A, 7ga). It seemed to cut better than the shielded, but the backsplash ate it up after a while. I had been running about 148HTC and 90ipm with the shielded setup, and ran closer to the 142 and 95 unshielded. Kerf was better, and maybe could have run faster yet. Burned up two nozzles cutting a sheet of 4x8, so consumable use is higher.

I have been complaining to my welding supplies guy, hoping for him to send the Hypertherm rep to see me. Maybe someone with more experience could give me more suggestions.

Ric,
the highest i have ever run voltage wise was 132 and that was for 3/8's steel....great cut..hardly a kerf and any slag....i would imagine running at 142 would toast tips....ill have to see what i am running for 3/16 and post later

with shielded tips, we had been running 148THC because anything less would crash. I hope to start running unshielded so I can get closer to the sheet and reduce the kerf. I keep getting the feeling I am doing something totally wrong.

Ric,
heres what i run:
3/16 (60amp consumable)
THV: 132/133
IPM range: 70 to 95
Optimal IPM: 80
Machine amps: 60
Pierce height: 3/16
Peirce delay: .25 seconds

Those settings give me great cuts so far. Ive even bumped the IPM down to around 75 with great results.
One note is i have never used sheilded tips with the sheild, i have always used the sheilded tips with the unsheilded deflector...just thought id throw that in there for discussion in the group....comments welcome

Edwardpic - Thanks for the reference - I will give these setting a try.

To clarify, do you use the unshielded 60A nozzle (looks like a nipple on the end) or the extended nozzle (smooth/flat on the tip)? When you say unshielded deflector, do you mean the shield that is basically just a threaded ring?

Hi Fellas,

Ran my machine enough to learn how to burn up a few tips! Bought the fine cut kit and some 40 and 60 amp setups from Thermacut. I'll let you know how those work out. Is it right to have slop in the z axis ? As my machine is setup, there is about 1/8 up-down slop in the Z. It just does not seem right. When piercing, the tip seems closer than the setting. I'd like to tighten this up if this is wrong. Look at your units if you would and tell me what you think. Get well Ed!

Thanks

Tom Prechtel
TAP INDUSTRIES
LaGrange, Ohio

Tom, the slop in the z axis is normal, I noticed the same thing on my Dynatorch. I also thought the extra clearance would be an issue but after using the machine I found that it made no difference at all. It does take some time to get to know the machine and you will go thru alot of consummables. I have found that with the joystick and using buttons #6 and #8 I can dial in my cutting speed, pierce height. arc volts etc, very quickly. I just cut a series of 4" straight lines and by using the joystick and my welding glasses of course, I can watch the cycle up close from start to finish. Between cuts I go back to the console and make some adjustments and repeat the process until I have everything to my liking. Button 8 starts the cycle and 6 ends it and by pushing the joystick control on the right side you can cut straight lines, also great for cutting remanents from the main sheet you are cutting on. Have fun.

Magma

I could not take it anymore. Watching the tip rub scrape, the THC not working right. I took it apart and drilled and tapped a 8-32 hole in the upper block that sandwiches the lead nut. Reassembled it and tighted the set screw so there was only a tiny .01 -.02 amount of slop.

WOW what a difference! My Tip lasted more than one part, my setting were much closer to the posted settings. I cannot believe Dynatorch would let that ship out the door that way.

Good Luck

Tom

Can we get Leon or Greg to pipe in on this one from DT? I know Greg and Leon are out there on these threads.

hello,
does anyone in here know how to run We-Cim ?