I'm new to milling, and I'd appreciate any help you can give.

I just acquired a Dyna Myte 2000, which is covered in a fine patina of rust. It came with some sort of tool holder (which loosens with a flat wrench), and a .25" x 2.5" endmill. I have copies of the "Operating and Programming Manual" and the "Maintenance and Service Manual".


What is the best way to refurbish the machine? I'm assuming that I'll have to take it completely apart. What's the best way to remove the rust?

Where can I get the various oils listed in the service manual?

I know that Dyna is very difficult to work with, so where can I buy parts?

Does this machine have any parts in common with any other mills?

Where can I get collets and tool holders?

What other mills are compatible with the DM2000, in terms of tool holders, collets, endmills?

I assume that I can use any endmill with a 1/4" shank, right?

What PC software will talk to the DM2000?

-Brian

Brian,
I have converted a DM2000 for a friend to PC control.
If you are handy with electronics, Xylotex motor drivers and
CNCPro (free) for the controller software on an old Laptop makes a very nice
system. I junked ALL of the old electronics. The spindle motor driver can
be a Minaric, Dart, or KB Electronics 90VDC variable control.
The original steppers can be used, but are slow and underpowered.
They will be 8 wire (4 coil) motors. If connected in the proper sequence
as coils series, you will get 32oz. These are 100 step per rev motors.
The gear is 100T for a 10/1 drive to the leadscrew. (1000 motor steps)
The leadscrew is 2.5mm pitch. 1" travel will need 10160 motor steps.
Check the nylon gears under the motor plate for cracks. This is common.
Rust can be removed with navel jelly and scotch abrasive pads.
Oils-Vactra No.2 way oil is all I use.
I have a DM2400 converted as above. Sweet machine.
Rich, Atlanta

aI'm new to milling, and I'd appreciate any help you can give.

I just acquired a Dyna Myte 2000, which is covered in a fine patina of rust. It came with some sort of tool holder (which loosens with a flat wrench), and a .25" x 2.5" endmill. I have copies of the "Operating and Programming Manual" and the "Maintenance and Service Manual".

If you are going to use it as manufactured, then read the "Operating and Programming Manual". It is not well written and has errors, but will give you some idea of how to operate.

What is the best way to refurbish the machine? I'm assuming that I'll have to take it completely apart. What's the best way to remove the rust?

Depends on the condition. These are pretty rugged little machines, so I'd do basic exterior cleaning and then operate it a bit before taking apart too far. depending on the amount of rust, I'd try steel wool (grade 0000) and some WD40 first. If that doesn't get the rust then the naval jelly would be a next step.

Where can I get the various oils listed in the service manual?

I have a DM2400 service manual and it does not list any oils. As previously stated, use Vactra 2 way oil. You can get it at McMaster-Carr supply among others.

I know that Dyna is very difficult to work with, so where can I buy parts?

"Mechtronics", the manuafacturer, is located in California. They have limited parts and not much technical help as they quit making these 10 years ago. They try but are limited.

Does this machine have any parts in common with any other mills?

The Dyna's were their own design and have generally unique parts.

Where can I get collets and tool holders?

The DM2400 uses ER16 collets. I believe (but am not sure) that the 2000 does also. Any good industrail supplier (eBay too) has ER16 collets.

What other mills are compatible with the DM2000, in terms of tool holders, collets, endmills?

One option on the Taig and Sherline mills is an ER16 collet holder. ER16 collets come in a range of sizes up to 3/8 inch if I remember correctly. Any end mill 3/8 inch or smaller can be held in the apporpriate ER16 collet.

I assume that I can use any endmill with a 1/4" shank, right?

In the appropriate ER16 collet.

What PC software will talk to the DM2000?

The mill was originally supplied with a DOS based program called "DYNA" that does RS232 communication with the mill. I have heard that Hyperterminal will also work but have not tried it.

Note that the mill, as delivered from the manufacturer, does not use standard Gcode. It has its own code that is similar to Gcode. I use Sheetcam (website of same name and also in CNCzone forums) for 2 1/2 D milling. They have a free trial download available. Be sure to get the correct dyna 2400 post processor file to get the correct g code for the mill. Good luck.

Jim

-Brian
a

Brian,
Sorry to hijack your thread for a moment, but I have a question for Rick.
Jim

Rick,
When you convert a DM 2400, what size steppers do you use? What driver? Do you convert to ballscrews? If you use ballscrews, do you get any additional table travel?
Thanks,
Jim

Sorry, I meant Rich in previous post.
Jim

Jim,
I have just completed cleaning up a DM2400 and have it running very nicely
with the original steppers/gears. Fortunatly they are in good shape.
Now I'm looking at changing to direct drive steppers and from what I've seen
elsewhere, 200 ox and up will be needed. The real problem is the shaft coupling
has to surround the leadscrew thrust preload nuts. One solution I've seen
is the Guardian "GearGrip" design (google for it) that is hollow.
I have already converted ALL the electronics to a PC system using CNCPro
(free) as the controller in a cheap laptop and Xylotex or Camtronics motor
drivers and a self made power supply.
The existing leadscrews and nuts are VERY nice and perform great as is.
Be aware that these need to be adjusted properly as well as the thrust
preload.
Also the pressure oiling system is not what it seems. Make sure it is delivering
oil to all slides and NUTS.
Later, Rich, Atlanta

>Rick,
>When you convert a DM 2400, what size steppers do you use? What driver? >Do you convert to ballscrews? If you use ballscrews, do you get any >additional table travel?
>Thanks,
>Jim

Rich,

Thanks for the info. I will check out the oiler to ensure proper coverage everywhere.

The main thing I was looking for was if you got any additional table travel (X and Y) from the conversion. I have a project coming up that requires more X travel than the machine can do. I'm struggling with converting the Dyna or starting with a larger mill for CNC conversion.

Jim

Jim,
changing to new steppers or whatever with the orginal leadscrews does
not effect the X-Y travel.
It's unfortunate that the table is so short unlike the Servo mill that
is the original design.
If you want to go with ballscrews, the entire mounting system changes.
Let us know how it comes out.
I don't see the need myself. My 2400 rapids at 30 IPM with the old drive
components.
RichD

<Rich,
<Thanks for the info. I will check out the oiler to ensure proper coverage
<everywhere.
<The main thing I was looking for was if you got any additional table travel
(X <and Y) from the conversion. I have a project coming up that requires
<more X travel than the machine can do. I'm struggling with converting
<the Dyna or <starting with a larger mill for CNC conversion.
<Jim

I now have two DYNA mills, 0ne is a Dyna-Myte 2000, the other, I believe, is a 2400, but the name plate is gone. It seems to be a bit bigger, has the chip pan, and a quick-change toolholder on the spindle. I am in the process (endless) of converting both to new controllers, power supplies, steppers, etc. I have most of the old stuff off the 2000 available, cheap. One of the driver boards is toasted, and maybe its' corresponding stepper, but I'm not in a position to test them. The power supplies are good, as well as the main controller board and other parts. The machine I have didn't come with the RS-232 option, but does have a cute little mini-cassette recorder for program storage. You have to write your program from the control panel. I also have the original control panel, and about two sets of operating programming and maintenance manuals for the 2000. If anyone is interested in any or all of the parts, give me a holler at mercat@clarityconnect.com
Fred

Which couplers are you planning to use from gaurdian?
I would like to go direct drive also.