Hi, I did a quick search, but I couldn't find an answer...

Is it possible to mill a 70mm diameter, 100mm deep hole in a block of Al (6082) with an X-1 sized mill?

I've never used a boring head before, but from what I have read, you have to start with a full depth pilot hole, and then bore it out slowly. Does this really mean than on an X-1 I'd have to bore up from a 10mm drilled hole to 70mm using the boring tool, adjusting it a tiny fraction of a mm per pass? Or can I get some sort of long endmill and just rough out the hole, and then just bore the last few passes for accuracy?

Thanks.

Do you have the stock motor?
You should be able to use a 1/2" drill without an issue in aluminum. Drill that first, thats like 12.5mm.
Then see if you can find a set of drills with a 1/2" shank but increase in increments of 1/16". Go as large as you can, upping 1/16" each time. 1/8" might be okay.

Then, bore. The X1 should be able to do it. Just be aware that you will need a good size boring bar to get that depth and keep rigidity. See if you can find something with 5/8" boring bars.

Also, remember that you will need to take smaller and smaller passes as your diameter increases. I hope you are patient.

It's not what the machine can or can't do, it's the amound of time it can do it in. On the smaller machines you'll have to take lighter cuts. The method described above is good. But as drills get larger they get longer and you'll run out of vertical height. So you may want some large endmills to plunge straight down with, but finding ones with like a 5/8 shank is not going to be easy probably and it is going to be expensive. You could CNC the thing and do the hole with like a 1/2" endmill. :D

Hi there,

I've got a feeling that you might run out of z-axis for something like this.

I was recently drilling holes in a 130mm long aluminium block. Once the block was gripped in the vice, the top of it was at least 150mm above the table. I managed to get away with drilling a 6mm hole, holding the drill bit in a 6mm collet. When it came to anything else, where I needed to use the chuck (because i didn't have the correct collet size), it was hopeless. A 10mm bit was hopeless. Even in a collet, there wasn't enough z to get the bottom of the drill to clear the top of the work piece.

It's probably not impossible to do what you want, but I've got a feeling it would be a good challenge.

Regards
Warren

Thanks for the replys guys :)

I have to admit that I haven't even got my X-1 yet, but I am planning to CNC it from the off. I guess I would need an end/slot-mill with a 120mm long shaft to cut this hole out without a boring head - and it seems I would run out of Z-axis with such a long mill :(

I think a boring head on its own would work, but it'd need about 200 passes to get from 10mm to 70mm dia, with a manual adjustment of the cutter after each pass - which kinda defeats the object of CNCing it in the first place!

I guess I may have to go back to the drawing board on this part...


EDITED due to lack of coffee before posting ;)

More than likely, you couldn't use a vise and get that depth. I'm not sure what the z travel is on the x1. But on my x2. When you figure the vise, material, boring head+boring bar. The z axis gets used up fast.

You could prolly get by with drilling out the part then inserting the boring bar into the part and mounting it in the vise. That way you don't have to actually clear the part with boring bar. I had to do that with my mill and a long drill bit. Inserted it into the part, then opened the drill chuck all the way. I was about to tilt/ease it into the chuck then drill the hole. I hope that makes sense.

You may have to bore it in stages. Which could cut down on your accuracy. Unless your very careful. Use a short boring bar to bore the top and a long boring bar for the bottom.

If this is a one off part, it might be easier to have someone on the forum make it for you.

*edit*

Blah, I meant to add that you can try mounting it directly to the table. Just make sure you don't drill/bore into the table. Maybe a piece of sacrafice material on the bottom.

More than likely, you couldn't use a vise and get that depth. I'm not sure what the z travel is on the x1. But on my x2. When you figure the vise, material, boring head+boring bar. The z axis gets used up fast.

You could prolly get by with drilling out the part then inserting the boring bar into the part and mounting it in the vise. That way you don't have to actually clear the part with boring bar. I had to do that with my mill and a long drill bit. Inserted it into the part, then opened the drill chuck all the way. I was about to tilt/ease it into the chuck then drill the hole. I hope that makes sense.

You may have to bore it in stages. Which could cut down on your accuracy. Unless your very careful. Use a short boring bar to bore the top and a long boring bar for the bottom.

If this is a one off part, it might be easier to have someone on the forum make it for you.

*edit*

Blah, I meant to add that you can try mounting it directly to the table. Just make sure you don't drill/bore into the table. Maybe a piece of sacrafice material on the bottom.

Thanks, that all makes sense :)

The hole doesn't actually go all the way through the piece, so I was planning to clamp it down to the table.

I don't really have to make this in one piece - but I do need the bore to be as smooth as possible - it is a mounting for an air-flow sensor, and any turbulance will do nasty things to the readings :(

I am getting more and more tempted to start off with some 3.5" 1/4" wall tube and then just bore that out the last few mm - a 50mm boring head would fit right inside. I'd have to add some other milled parts on the outside of the tube to get my sensor mounts etc, but it might be less work overall...

Your idea to start with 1/4" wall tubed is by far the way to go. YOu will have a lot patience left in the reservoir, and taking a tiny and slow cuts for a good finish won't be so annoying.

Your idea to start with 1/4" wall tubed is by far the way to go. YOu will have a lot patience left in the reservoir, and taking a tiny and slow cuts for a good finish won't be so annoying.

Thanks - I've seen the thing professionally CNC milled in one piece and it just looked amazing! I'd be more than happy though with something that was quicker and cheaper to make that needed 2 or more parts though :)

I guess my next stupid question was going to be how to mill the outside of the tube to the required dimensions, but I guess I just have to turn it on its side and mill it front and back?

Now that I've actually got my mill (though I've not milled anything yet!), I can see what people mean about the Z-axis disappearing. With an ER25 collet chuck and short 6mm mill, there's about 175mm between the end of the mill and the table. Add an milling vice and that drops to about 130-140mm of Z.

What I was wondering is has anyone tried raising the whole Z-axis about 50-60mm above the current mounting point? There is currently enough Z-travel to put the cutter about 50mm through the table, so apart from mounting and stability issues, I can't see any downside to this modification - am I missing something?

Cheers.

What you possibly may consider is using a 3/8" dia solid carbide boring bar in a smaller boring head. Carbide bars are 5X stiffer than steel ones so the finish is typically far superior. The rule of thumb for good finish is to bore 2x deeper than the bar dia with steel bars and 10x bar dia with carbide max. This rule is for steel parts,, you can go at least 30% deeper with aluminum parts.

If you make this as a 2 piece job,, sounds like the tube would lend itself better to lathe work rather than mill.

What you possibly may consider is using a 3/8" dia solid carbide boring bar in a smaller boring head. Carbide bars are 5X stiffer than steel ones so the finish is typically far superior. The rule of thumb for good finish is to bore 2x deeper than the bar dia with steel bars and 10x bar dia with carbide max. This rule is for steel parts,, you can go at least 30% deeper with aluminum parts.

If you make this as a 2 piece job,, sounds like the tube would lend itself better to lathe work rather than mill.

Thanks - I was wondering if it's actually possible to interpollate larger bores with a boring head by spyrialing the cutter under CNC in X-Y and Z just like a long endmill. That way, I wouldn't have to stop and adjust the boring head on every pass...

I have no room for a lathe - and I'm saving my pennies for some aluminium to mill :)

I don't think that a boring head will work well in a spiral cutting mode and an end mill offers superior stiffness... Also,,I think that a lot depends on the rigidness of the machine itself....The further the head is away from the table the more flexible it gets.. Thats why a riser block on the column may not be a good idea. My suggestion is first to drill a 1/4" pilot hole then to use the largest screw machine length drill bit you can hold, probably 5/8. Then go to cnc with a 1/2" end mill to cut within .015 of final diameter and to finished depth. Then finish the wall id with a boring head. This way you can go through each step with as many parts as you are making then set up for the next tool. Once the boring head is set up,, you dont have to change its setting so you get repeatable accuracy. The finish will be very good because you can take a light cut with the boring head with the x y axis locked down for max rigidness.

There is no compromise for high quality tooling when doing professional quality work so anticipate having to invest a bit of money there,, probably more than you invested in the machine itself. Carbide insert tools are the way to go with boring bars and solid carbide bars are by far the best. Cost is about $ 150.00 for a carbide bar and a couple of inserts.. Another $ 75.00 + for a boring head, about $ 20.00 for a 5/8 drill bit and another 35.00 for a high quality carbide 3 flute 1/2" end mill.. so a $ 300 tooling investment is needed to make this step work... You may consider sub-contracting the boring head operation if you are not making very many parts initially. You could also rough out the holes on your mill to save money.

I'm not sure he would need to go to the expense of a carbide boring bar with carbide insert. The hole is 70mm diameter so using a boring head to only finish the hole, as you suggest, means he could use a home ground HSS "round" cutter directly inserted in the side of a 50 mm diameter boring head. That would be a very stiff stup.

Regards
Phil

I don't think that a boring head will work well in a spiral cutting mode and an end mill offers superior stiffness... Also,,I think that a lot depends on the rigidness of the machine itself....The further the head is away from the table the more flexible it gets.. Thats why a riser block on the column may not be a good idea. My suggestion is first to drill a 1/4" pilot hole then to use the largest screw machine length drill bit you can hold, probably 5/8. Then go to cnc with a 1/2" end mill to cut within .015 of final diameter and to finished depth. Then finish the wall id with a boring head. This way you can go through each step with as many parts as you are making then set up for the next tool. Once the boring head is set up,, you dont have to change its setting so you get repeatable accuracy. The finish will be very good because you can take a light cut with the boring head with the x y axis locked down for max rigidness.

There is no compromise for high quality tooling when doing professional quality work so anticipate having to invest a bit of money there,, probably more than you invested in the machine itself. Carbide insert tools are the way to go with boring bars and solid carbide bars are by far the best. Cost is about $ 150.00 for a carbide bar and a couple of inserts.. Another $ 75.00 + for a boring head, about $ 20.00 for a 5/8 drill bit and another 35.00 for a high quality carbide 3 flute 1/2" end mill.. so a $ 300 tooling investment is needed to make this step work... You may consider sub-contracting the boring head operation if you are not making very many parts initially. You could also rough out the holes on your mill to save money.

Mounting a cutter from the side may work, but it is close,,, the boring head will be about 50 + mm in dia with no offset and the cutter must extend below the bottom surface of the head to reach the bottom of the blind hole.... a custom ground cutter may be needed. Owning a good boring bar is not a bad investment for any holes less than 50mm in diameter...

Wow, thanks for all the advice guys :cheers:

I won't have my metal for about a week, but I'm going to have a go at boring a deep 70mm hole in a square sided tall candle - I shouldn't be able to damage any of my tools with that, and I'll be able to recycle the wax and try different strategies :)

Just got my boring head and made some tests . On X2 when head is shifted for greater diameter , it become unbalanced and machine vibrates at some rpm's in the middle. Should try to insert some counter weight to balance the head. I did not attach machine properly to the base - that could be another reason for vibration.

You got the right idea!
Make sure that boring head is balanced - or go VERY slowly (rpm wise).
Pres

Thanks .

Will look for something like rod (to be inserted into the boring head horizontal hole) and balancing ring on it with locking nut to fix a ring on that rod. BTW, does someone sense the vibration of machines with some kind of electronic accelerometer for precision machine tuning/balancing attached to the spindle?

I ordered the cheapest boring set from little machine shops to study boring and that one is definitely not for alu. Lubricating help a lot but still is not the perfect (is not as perfect as it could be on machine with 35 microns spindle playing ) I so a number of pages on internet where it is advised to use cutting tools with TIx plating and/or core carbide mills with different shaping than for other metals. Is it possible to use indexable bore mills or go for something special and may be expensive ?

To rough cut a starting hole, try a forstner bit. I've gone to about 2-1/2 inches in diameter in aluminum without much trouble.

Ken

Hi
There are also similar bimetal bits :
http://www.boschtools.com/accessories/accessories-category.htm?H=176227

Someone advised me before to use those (Eclipse made but dont think there is much difference with Bosch may be different adapter is needed). Though Bosch uses hex shank. These are destined for metal as well .
I guess it could be problem to remove chips while drilling for bimetal bits .


Yet there is something different :
http://www.boschtools.com/accessories/accessories-detail?H=176252&G=54720&T=0&D=True

It looks it is shaping is not for aluminum but Bosch says it can be used but does not state whether it is for only sheet metal or for the rest.

Has an X1 or X2 got enough power to drive a hole saw through an inch or so of Al? I would have thought that you'd be better pocket milling the metal out of the middle and then finishing it up with the boring head.

That said, I should put my money where my mouth is and unwrap my boring head :)

Probably not.
I need help me to locate a shop to order online something similar to :
http://www.metaltecnia.com/cataleg/SE/se-021400.htm
with CCGT-AL insert.
I have a boring head with 1/2" shank but canela's is 12 mm .

you do realise this is an end mill and not a boring bar, it will have very limited reach if used as a boring bar.

Regards
Phil

Probably not.
I need help me to locate a shop to order online something similar to :
http://www.metaltecnia.com/cataleg/SE/se-021400.htm
with CCGT-AL insert.
I have a boring head with 1/2" shank but canela's is 12 mm .

Thanks . Actually i did not. I assumed it can be used for hole enlargement . What is the difference between this end mill and boring bar ?
There is another link but i don't know whether i will be able to find inserts . Are insert sizes standardized ?
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chronos_Catalogue_Boring_Bar_Sets_36.html&CatalogBody

Being a newbie i still did not recognize how to differentiate between boring bars for mills and lathes for cylindric bars.

Thanks . Actually i did not. I assumed it can be used for hole enlargement . What is the difference between this end mill and boring bar ?
There is another link but i don't know whether i will be able to find inserts . Are insert sizes standardized ?
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chronos_Catalogue_Boring_Bar_Sets_36.html&CatalogBody

Being a newbie i still did not recognize how to differentiate between boring bars for mills and lathes for cylindric bars.

Look carefully at the pictures, the boring bar's cutting edge is significantly outside the shank and cuts on the outside of the tool. The endmill cuts below itself and sideways to the nominal diameter of the tool.

If you want people to suggest websites, you'll probably have to refine your location from 'planet Earth' - a continent would be a good start - assuming you're not under water ;)

Thanks. I got it. As i understand the boring cut thickness will be limited to only something less than distance from inserts edge to the holding tool body.

Regarding location ), last time i ordered tool from USA without problem. As far as there is credit card, PC with internet connection and cash is in green color - the nationality does not make sense ). Yes , i don't live in submarine even yellow, for sure).

The main difference is it is not long enough so it's uses are limited as a boring bar, and it will be expensive. What you need is the 9pc TCT Boring Bar Set (3/8,1/2,10mm or 12mm) SPECIAL OFFER! from Chrono's for GBP 12.00.

Regards
Phil

Thanks . Actually i did not. I assumed it can be used for hole enlargement . What is the difference between this end mill and boring bar ?
There is another link but i don't know whether i will be able to find inserts . Are insert sizes standardized ?
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Chronos_Catalogue_Boring_Bar_Sets_36.html&CatalogBody

Being a newbie i still did not recognize how to differentiate between boring bars for mills and lathes for cylindric bars.

Thanks Phil

I could nto see the picture , is it suitable for alu? and why it is preferred over boring bar with inserts ?

I really appreciate your help and patience when answering my stupid questions. Thanks again .

They are tugnsten carbide tipped (TCT) and they are resharpenable, also you get a set of nine for less than the price of one insert boring bar with insert.

It is wrong to think that insert tooling is the best and therefore everything else is inferior. Inserts are about "time is money" in a commercial environment where the manhour and tooling cost to sharpen tooling is to expensive and were CNC machining likes repeatable tool positioning.

TCT tooling is just as good in machining performance and 1/10th the cost. The only trick to learn is how and with what to sharpen them correctly.

Regards
Phil

Thanks Phil

I could nto see the picture , is it suitable for alu? and why it is preferred over boring bar with inserts ?

I really appreciate your help and patience when answering my stupid questions. Thanks again .

As far as these do not cost much i will order both and study . Thanks to all

While waiting for boring bar i have sacrificed one 12 mm hss end mill to use it instead of bar and put it into 1/2 " boring head.) Indeed, result was not bad.

What are expert opinions on this abuse?

While waiting for boring bar i have sacrificed one 12 mm hss end mill to use it instead of bar and put it into 1/2 " boring head.) Indeed, result was not bad.

What are expert opinions on this abuse?

The proof's in the pudding - how round are your holes? I would have thought that you might have problems with flutes making multiple simultaneous cuts at different heights and different engagement angles (if that's the right term).

The proof's in the pudding - how round are your holes? I would have thought that you might have problems with flutes making multiple simultaneous cuts at different heights and different engagement angles (if that's the right term).

In theory , i guess , if mill is trammed OK and no vibration etc as flutes go same circular way rounding should be OK .
Practically , i dont have tool for precise roundness measurement. I guess digital caliper can misguide me , but according to it everything is within 50 microns.

I am just curious, if you have a rotary table, placed the aluminium stock piece on it and use an endmill to mill out a 70mm diameter hole by turning the rotary table. Is this possible or am I talking gibberish here?

I think if you look at the geometry of the end mill diameter to the hole diameter you will see that only the very tip of one flute is cutting.

This thread started in august 2006, 6 months to machine at 70mm hole, must be a record

Regards
Phil

The proof's in the pudding - how round are your holes? I would have thought that you might have problems with flutes making multiple simultaneous cuts at different heights and different engagement angles (if that's the right term).

I am just curious, if you have a rotary table, placed the aluminium stock piece on it and use an endmill to mill out a 70mm diameter hole by turning the rotary table. Is this possible or am I talking gibberish here?

This is quite possible - aligning everything is a little tedious, but I'm going to give it a go, as soon I've moved my X1's column to allow me to get my 150mm rotary table on there centrally.

I think if you look at the geometry of the end mill diameter to the hole diameter you will see that only the very tip of one flute is cutting.

This thread started in august 2006, 6 months to machine at 70mm hole, must be a record

Regards
Phil

The initial question in the thread, was about cutting a 70mm diameter, 100mm deep hole in aluminium on an X1. I still don't have any end mills quite long enough to pull this off, and even if I did, I would lose the will to live long before my X-1 had finished pocketing it out (it is a blind hole) at 0.5mm/pass.

It seems more and more like a job for a CNC lathe to me :)

Sorry Digits, the reference to 6 months was only intended as a little bit of light-hearted ribbing.

A maual lathe would work equally as well.

Regards
Phil

The initial question in the thread, was about cutting a 70mm diameter, 100mm deep hole in aluminium on an X1. I still don't have any end mills quite long enough to pull this off, and even if I did, I would lose the will to live long before my X-1 had finished pocketing it out (it is a blind hole) at 0.5mm/pass.

It seems more and more like a job for a CNC lathe to me :)

Sorry Digits, the reference to 6 months was only intended as a little bit of light-hearted ribbing.

A maual lathe would work equally as well.

Regards
Phil

Don't worry Phil - no offence taken - I was just pointing out that the question was still lacking a complete solution!

Ofcourse, you're right, a manual lathe would do the job, but IMHO CNC is essential to take the boring out of boring :D

I just wish I had room for a lathe as well as a bigger mill - the only place a lathe could go is on the mill's table - which is what might have to happen ;)

I'm no expert but a think a shell end mill would be the obvious choice for CNCing a deep blind pocket, after drilling a pilot hole.

http://www.discount-tools.com/moash.cfm

They start at 1.25" diameter. Of course you will have to take small bites but that's the nature of an X1 which ever way you go.

Regards
Phil


Don't worry Phil - no offence taken - I was just pointing out that the question was still lacking a complete solution!

Ofcourse, you're right, a manual lathe would do the job, but IMHO CNC is essential to take the boring out of boring :D

I just wish I had room for a lathe as well as a bigger mill - the only place a lathe could go is on the mill's table - which is what might have to happen ;)

I'm no expert but a think a shell end mill would be the obvious choice for CNCing a deep blind pocket, after drilling a pilot hole.

http://www.discount-tools.com/moash.cfm

They start at 1.25" diameter. Of course you will have to take small bites but that's the nature of an X1 which ever way you go.

Regards
Phil

I am even less of an expert - how does that cut better than a standard indexable end-mill? They are both non-centre cutting...

I have actually been considering just drilling out an array of overlapping holes to remove the bulk of the material, and then rough-finishing the walls with a CNC spiral cut, and then and only then getting out my boring head to do the last few mm of the diameter.

Cheers.

...I have actually been considering just drilling out an array of overlapping holes to remove the bulk of the material, and then rough-finishing the walls with a CNC spiral cut, and then and only then getting out my boring head to do the last few mm of the diameter.
Cheers.

That seems like a reasonably quick way to do it on a small mill like the X1.
You might want to drill it in 2 passes by not overlapping on the 1st pass. Then go back and split the distance between holes.
This would minimize any drill bit deflection caused by asymmetrical cutting due to the adjacent hole.

(attempt at humor)
Lets see, 6 months could be about right if you using a single flute 1/4" endmill, 0.1 ipm, 0.001" depth of cut with 0.001 step over.. - then redoing it a few times.
At least its minimum stress on the cutter and machine. :)

Mounted onto an arbor that has a diameter less than the cutter diameter you can cut to the full 100mm depth without the cutter shank rubbing on the work piece. You don't need center cutting if you cut drill a pilot hole.

regards
Phil

I am even less of an expert - how does that cut better than a standard indexable end-mill? They are both non-centre cutting...

I have actually been considering just drilling out an array of overlapping holes to remove the bulk of the material, and then rough-finishing the walls with a CNC spiral cut, and then and only then getting out my boring head to do the last few mm of the diameter.

Cheers.

What size cutter will you use to go 100mm deep.

Phil



then rough-finishing the walls with a CNC spiral cut, and then and only then getting out my boring head to do the last few mm of the diameter.

Cheers.

How would you finish the bottom of the hole.

Phil

and then and only then getting out my boring head to do the last few mm of the diameter.

Cheers.

How would you finish the bottom of the hole.

Phil

D'oh, you're right, I would need a 100mm cutter. I'm not sure my hole really does need to be 100mm deep - 70mm might do, and I can almost do that.

I see what you mean about those shell-end mills. Have you seen any European suppliers on your travels? I have just been looking through my ever growing cutter collection - I have some T-slot cutters that have never been used in anger - they might be ideal alternatives to a shell-mill. I'd still need something with centre-cutting ability to clean the bottom of the hole though.

Can X1 drive this shell mill?

Providing you can get the rpm down to something like 300 fpm surface speed then it depends on how bigofa bite you take. The issue is not necessarily the size of the tool (within reason) but the amount of material you try to remove per minute.

Reducing a 70 mm diameter by 100mm long section of aluminium to small chips is going to take a long time on an X1 however you do it. Ideally you need to keep the rpm up and therefore the HP up and therefore the highest possible removal rate. Keeping the tool diameter down helps in keeping the rpm up and also minises the torque and therfore machine deflection. It is quite feasible to make a purpose made cutter out of silver steel (drill rod) specific for the job.

Regards
Phil


Can X1 drive this shell mill?

I just got the 60 mm cutting surface long 12 mm Ti plated HSS roughing mill . It did good job removing 40 mm al if lub is used . So may be combination with turntable +rougmill then fine boring could be fast .

I just got the 60 mm cutting surface long 12 mm Ti plated HSS roughing mill . It did good job removing 40 mm al if lub is used . So may be combination with turntable +rougmill then fine boring could be fast .

Do you mind sharing what exactly you're using and where you got it/what it cost?

Cheers.

Actually it is longer than conventional roughing mill. It removes material faster than end mill . I guess it is possible to make a pilot hole with drill bit larger than this mill and then put this roughing mill inside a hole and mill by turning the table (the part is placed on) to get rough circle (assuming material on hole center is already removed by same mill).

It costs me 20 USD and it is not brand one .

I still haven't found anywhere in the UK that sells any type of roughing mill :(

You arn't looking hard enough. for one example try:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s?ie=UTF8&rh=n%3A303332011&page=2

if all else fails:

Dormer http://www.dormertools.com/uk

then check for a stockist in your area.

Phil


I still haven't found anywhere in the UK that sells any type of roughing mill :(

You arn't looking hard enough. for one example try:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s?ie=UTF8&rh=n%3A303332011&page=2

if all else fails:

Dormer http://www.dormertools.com/uk

then check for a stockist in your area.

Phil

Thanks for the links Phil - I had seen the Amazon UK ones before - but they are all unavailable.

A quick search on Dormer however did produce some interesting hits - thanks :)

there is of course ebay

Phil

Thanks for the links Phil - I had seen the Amazon UK ones before - but they are all unavailable.

A quick search on Dormer however did produce some interesting hits - thanks :)

there is of course ebay

Phil

Ebay UK isn't that great, and the indeterminate delivery time is a bit of a problem for me. Still, an end mill in a Jiffy bag should fit through my letterbox :)

If only I could find a way to fit the 118mm long 18mm dia rougher to my X1! I'll have to replace my broken back-gear first though :(

If all else fails try these guys in the USA.

www.discount-tools.com

I recently ordered something like 12 HSS and carbide endmills ranging from 1/4" to 1/2". It cost me USD 15 shipping from the USA to Norway (arrived in 7 days). All cutters where USA made and of excellent quality. It was much cheaper than buying locally. Get a quote including shipping.

Regards
Phil


Ebay UK isn't that great, and the indeterminate delivery time is a bit of a problem for me. Still, an end mill in a Jiffy bag should fit through my letterbox :)

If only I could find a way to fit the 118mm long 18mm dia rougher to my X1! I'll have to replace my broken back-gear first though :(

If all else fails try these guys in the USA.

www.discount-tools.com

I recently ordered something like 12 HSS and carbide endmills ranging from 1/4" to 1/2". It cost me USD 15 shipping from the USA to Norway (arrived in 7 days). All cutters where USA made and of excellent quality. It was much cheaper than buying locally. Get a quote including shipping.

Regards
Phil


Cheers Phil - it's not going to do my carbon footprint any good, but I might order some tools from them. To be honest, their array of cutters is a bit overwhelming - they have plenty that will cut 100mm deep though :)

well there are certinally some interesting ideas on how to tackle this issue... ofcourse, by now, he could have mailed me the peice of stock, i'da chucked it up in the 4-jaw on the big lathe, chewed it out, finished it, polished it and mailed it back to him....