Hey people I want to know wish good Controller program can i
use for making molds, i am a newbie and i want to know if someone is making molds using programs like Mach2 or DeskCNC,
and also wish Drives to use Gecko,Rutex?

It is possible to use these cheap Controller programs for moldmaking?

I plan to buy a old medium size mill to convert to CNC using servos, i am going to mill p20 steel and mild steel, the molds are
going to be simple shapes and sometime a little more complex made from Cimatron.

Thanks for any Help..

Jake.

Hi Jake,

I think you can put any controller software you like on your machine. Let the controller do what it is best at, and that is moving your machine properly and accurately.

Most controller software that I have heard of, can interpret Gcode programs and thus move your machine.

So what you really need, is flexibility for making the gcode programs, and you do this by searching high and low, far and wide for Cadcam software that gives you good results, and yet is not too difficult or expensive to use and acquire.

What is your price range?

If your technical abilities are good, I would suggest Camsoftcorp cnc controller software. This is an extremely configurable software, and can give you excellent results, if you know what you want, and have some programming insight, or are willing to learn the ins and outs of simple logic.

If you have never run cnc before, you might be better off to use a system that is prebuilt, and learn the basics from that.

Thanks for the reply

So i can use any controller software ok i get it now,the cam program will make the Gcode.

I have some experience with cad only, so i am going to learn
a little of Cam too :)

My price range is like $5000 so what type of cnc mill can i buy
or built?

Thanks.
Jake

For $5000 , you had best search Ebay for a machine. It is likely going to be an older one though. There is a nice 14,000 lb Monarch on there for cheap, but I don't know if the controller needs replacing.

Honestly, $5000 will buy you some iron, but not much of a control, so be prepared to spend $$ to upgrade it, if it is not in working order when you get it. Some of these older controllers can be repaired, but replacement circuit boards can be very expensive. That's why us penny pinchers are taking the PC based controller approach.

Still, it does take a lot of patience and research to buy a used machine, and delve into its inner workings to convert it over to a PC based control.

I use BobCAD 17 & 18 to design the molds for an older Arburg plastic injection (air operated). The max width is 4" but the length can be up to 6-8" if needed but cooling too fast becomes a problem. Most of the molds I make are 4X4 or 4X5. I use 7075 aluminum with steel mounting/backing plates. I make simple spring ejection systems with nitrided pins on the parts and runners.
The small molds are cut on a Sherline CNC mill (with Flashcut) or a Bridgeport Series I CNC machine. We cut the larger molds on a new Hurco vertical machining center (faster and a nice big toy with 15 HP motor).
Almost all of the parts I make are for my father-in-law's antique car restoration business. I learning more as I go along but most of my learning has been from books and trial and error.
Alignment pins and draft lines are critical to mold success. You really need to think it out properly before you cut. Also you must cut proper air evacuation routes or you will trap air in the platic mold.
I perform all the final fitting and alignment by hand. I do not care if it is cnc cut or not it will still need some fitting play.
I also make rubber compression mold for rubber parts such as seals, rubber bumpers, motor mounts, etc. That is a really neat process. 375 to 450 temperature with 10-15 minute cure time at 40,000 PSI. The operation is a one time deal. If you trap air in the mold you ruin the part (there is no melting real rubber) it becomes garbage! Those molds can be several plates/parts (up to 7 individual mold parts so far max). Dimensions range from 4X4 to 10x16 with an average around 8X10. The molds all need to be pried apart when coming out of the press. Trying to pry 450 degree plates apart with heavy heat resistant gloves is not easy. The molds must be at temperature to start with so you can not let them cool much.
Just thought you might like to know.
mc_n_g

So mc_n_g you are using Flashcut i am thinking in using
maybe Mach2, with Camtronics case and converting a turret
mill in CNC, or maybe buying a prebuilt Bridgeport with CNC
as HuFlungDung tell me.

The molds are for my Dad that have a small shop with
2 injection molding machines, we inject material like
polypropylene,PE or thermoplastic rubber (Fake Rubber :p )
mc_n_g I didn't know that making parts in real rubber
was so complex :eek:.

Thanks for the feedback Guys.
Jake

I have a factory Bridgeport CNC that I retrofitted with a Larken controller for $2000 U.S. It work's great, comes with stepper drivers and software. With code from OneCNC, Mastercam, or any other cam software it works easier than an O.E.M. controller. I might be biased due to the fact that I own it but it's alot of bang for the buck. Give em a look at least.

If the question is:
What is the best control for mold machining?

Then:

http://www.numeryx.com/cnc/index.htm
Is the best. Can be retrofitted on nearly any CNC machine.
Can double in most cases, and even quaduple feed rates that OEM controls deliver.

It's impossible to believe until you see the motion control...
You can also check out an older version of the same control:

http://www.numatix.com/

Sincerely,
Scott_bob