well I feel I am at a stage where I will make steady progress so I thought I would start sharing some pictures. Maby get some advice along the way.

What board is that in the enclosure (to run the motors)?

it is an arcsin board from www.buildyouridea.com Dave is a really nice guy. He has been taking a break for a while but he just told me he was going to do another pcb run and sell a kit for the board. There are a couple of features that caught my attention 1. it has a buit on interface for a joystick 2. it is capable of running a second stepper on the x axis. I did build the 3977 drives from Phils site but I wanted something that could take a little more voltage. here is a pic of what I was going to use I think I will use them for a small desktop mill one day.

ok here is some more progress on the gantry I have to wait until monday or tuesday for my T nuts to mount the bearings so I think I will test fit the gantry then. this is only a temporary gantry so I can use the router to cut my alluminum hopefully this one will be sturdy enough to cut alluminum. I am learning very quickly that a mill would save you alot of time and headache or even a friend with a mill would be nice LOL!

OK here is some more progress unfortunately I still don't think this will be rigid enough to cut aluminum any suggestions to stiffen it up any help would be much appreciated.

OK here is some more progress unfortunately I still don't think this will be rigid enough to cut aluminum any suggestions to stiffen it up any help would be much appreciated.
You could use aluminum or steel angle to stiffen up all of the corners on the gantry. The outside corners for sure, and maybe the inside ones, too.

It looks like you should remake the sides of your gantry to make them longer on the underside of your table frame. You could then add front and back plates made from wood or metal to stiffen the assembly up even more. A torsion box assembly would probably make it even stiffer than just the front and back support pieces.

See Joe's CNC Model 2006 gantry for inspiration:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=119880&postcount=42

If you're going to remake the gantry, now's the time. I hope the suggestions give you the help you were looking for.

This is only a sacrificial gantry but the idea of angle might be what I was looking for. actually the gantry I made is based on Joes second machine I have been following Joes stuff for a while now he is the one who cut my router mounts for me. what I was hoping to do is cut my aluminum gantry with this one.

thank you

Rob

OK I have stiffened the gantry up with 1" square tubing but I have found out that it is the bottom plate that is the weakest link. If I hold both gantry sides and move them in opposite directions I get what I think is called gantry rack. Anyone have ideas how to improve this? any help would be greatly appreciated.

thank you
Rob

Without rebuilding everything... I would get a large piece of angle (red part)and fasten it on the gantry sides and bottom on each end of the gantry.

Or you could try the flat metal 90 degree corners (Yellow part)and put the on the front and back ends of the gantry and attach to the gantry bottom front and back edge.

Both probably wouldn't be a bad idea either

OK I have stiffened the gantry up with 1" square tubing but I have found out that it is the bottom plate that is the weakest link. If I hold both gantry sides and move them in opposite directions I get what I think is called gantry rack. Anyone have ideas how to improve this? any help would be greatly appreciated.

thank you
Rob
Again...
You could use aluminum or steel angle to stiffen up all of the corners on the gantry. The outside corners for sure, and maybe the inside ones, too.

It looks like you should remake the sides of your gantry to make them longer on the underside of your table frame. You could then add front and back plates made from wood or metal to stiffen the assembly up even more. A torsion box assembly would probably make it even stiffer than just the front and back support pieces.

See Joe's CNC Model 2006 gantry for inspiration:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpost.php?p=119880&postcount=42

If you're going to remake the gantry, now's the time. I hope the suggestions give you the help you were looking for.

I know you allready said that haytay and stupid me assumed that the bottom plate wouldn't be the problem I guess I should listen to people who have built machines anyhow the idea for the flat corner brackets was also very good I think i will use both angle and the corner brackets should I double the thickness of the bottom plate as well?

thank you
Rob

I don't think you can do much to help the torsional strength of slab MDF by adding pieces of metal. That's why people build torsion boxes. Your problem is the lack of torsional strength. Laminating the slabs of MDF will help a lot, as will doubling the the thickness of the slabs.

now that I added the square tubing you can stand on this thing but the only thing that I did not fix is the gantry rack the side to side play was eliminated. I did however think of making a torsion box for the bottom plate just don't know how i would attach it don't want to start from scratch just need to cut a few aluminum pieces with it then its job is done.

Truman,

I found out that no matter how much strength I had in my gantry, it still racked. I pretty much solved it to my satisfaction with dual leadscrews. Using a taught cable and pulleys has also been mentioned a few times, but I have not seen it in use.

Steve

Okay, how about this...

Keep what you have and remove the square tubing from the gantry uprights. Cut another set of the gantry sides making them longer so that they hang down 3" or more below the current gantry bottom. Make a another gantry bottom to attach at the bottom of the new sides and cut a front and back piece to square everything up and solidify the structure to minimize the "racking". take your news sides, bottom and front and back pieces and slip them onto your current gantry assembly. Glue, screw, & bolt as necessary to attach the new pieces to the current assembly.

This will give you the added stiffness of doubling the thickness of the gantry sides and extra support on the gantry bottom to keep the sides from pivoting/racking as much. Check out the JGRO CNC Router plans for an example of the gantry bottom modification and Joe's 1st (and 2nd?) CNC Router for examples.

You can even place the square tubing back on once the extra gantry pieces are in place to reduce the flexing of the sides.

That's a quick, cost effective solution that should give you the result your looking for. Sound OK?

what about going one step further and making the bottom piece an actuall tortion box and for attaching it to the new uprights run threaded rod all the way through?

Sounds good to me, I was just trying to keep it simple because you...
just need to cut a few aluminum pieces with it then its job is done.

I tend to over think things I think I will just square it off as you said I will cut the new uprights and front and back pieces tomorrow I now see where the light bulb wasn't going off in my head but thanks to your persistence it finally turned on I totally omitted the bottom being like it was on Joe's machine thinking the different bearings would make the difference I guess I like learning the hard way hope I didn't frustrate you to much.

I tend to over think things I think I will just square it off as you said I will cut the new uprights and front and back pieces tomorrow I now see where the light bulb wasn't going off in my head but thanks to your persistence it finally turned on I totally omitted the bottom being like it was on Joe's machine thinking the different bearings would make the difference I guess I like learning the hard way hope I didn't frustrate you to much.
truman,

Keep plugging away and it'll all work itself out. We all sort things out in our heads in different ways and at different speeds. And sometimes we need to be told, or shown, something a couple of times before it sinks in. That's what all of the CNCZoners are here for: help and support.

If you were going to keep the gantry permanently other suggestions and designs, such as the torsion box with rods and an extra set of guide rails, would have been forthcoming. You're still going to get some flex/racking due to the design and MDF contruction material, but, between the proposed reinforcements and some experimentation with cutting speeds, feeds & DOC, you should be able to get what you need cut.

Have fun, and don't forget the pictures!

Keep what you have and remove the square tubing from the gantry uprights. Cut another set of the gantry sides making them longer so that they hang down 3" or more below the current gantry bottom. Make a another gantry bottom to attach at the bottom of the new sides and cut a front and back piece to square everything up and solidify the structure to minimize the "racking". take your news sides, bottom and front and back pieces and slip them onto your current gantry assembly. Glue, screw, & bolt as necessary to attach the new pieces to the current assembly.

That's what I did with mine (http://www.flickr.com/photos/javamoose/190474047/in/set-72157594200467576/) and it is seriously rigid (well, except for the unsupported rails).

what do you meen by unsupported rails?

what do you meen by unsupported rails?
...er... the rails... they're... unsupported. :)


(other router designs have the rails crushed against something for their length giving them support in the middle of the rail. This design is just held at either end of the machine... hence, they're unsupported in the middle)

My first observation was that there's a lot of unsupported rail for a router this size.

Something is wrong in the forum. Our posts for a different build are going to this guy's thread? he deffinitely has supported rails. The other is a bigger build.

Something is wrong in the forum. Our posts for a different build are going to this guy's thread? he deffinitely has supported rails. The other is a bigger build.

umm, these comments were about JavaDog's comments about his router that has unsupported rails. The forum is fine.

Then I got goofed up.

are thk on aluminum extrusion not supported?

sorry now I see what is going on Java's rails are unsupported getting a little confusing

Sorry all, wasn't trying to confuse (hence why I didn't put the picture inline).

Just trying to show that the idea of two lower cross-braces on a gantry IS a great way to go - and is very rigid.

Truman - Sure you can use THK Linear Rails on extrusion...

no I have thk on extrusion that is what I am using.

OK I have doubled the thickness of the gantry uprights and boxed in the bottom and boy what a difference it made I am satisfied with the strength now whew! what a lesson but still having fun!:) hopefully my bearings for the acme rod will come in early this week so I can get started on the plates to mount the lead screw and motors I hope this part will go smooth. My couplers and anti backlash nuts have already arrived from dumpster and they look great I think these will simplify the whole operation.

OK I have doubled the thickness of the gantry uprights and boxed in the bottom and boy what a difference it made I am satisfied with the strength now
truman,

Lookin' good! I'm glad you're satisfied with the results. :cheers: It is truly amazing how much stronger the gantry is with the bottom box bracing and the double side walls.

whew! what a lesson but still having fun!
I don't get to do this often, so, here goes: I told you so! ;) Sorry, couldn't resist. I'm glad I could help you out. Can't wait to see you finish your table.

any more progress???

not to much this week but I did start to put the Y axis together and made temporary bearing blocks and one motor spacer this weekend is my daughters 1st birthday so I doubt I will get much done this weekend.

ok have some more time this week on my hollidays so hope to get this finished. here are a couple of pictures of my little bit of progress so far.

well I have got all of the lead screws in and everything test fitted I just need to make two little blocks to mount the anti backlash nuts and attach to the axis then wire everything up its been hard lately to get anything done the wife makes so many plans hopefully I will get everything done this week.

well I have jogged the x and y axis on my machine for the first time and I can barely contain myself I can't believe I built this thing that is wirring and buzzing moving up and down yahooooo! I would like to thank all of you guys this site rocks I want a t-shirt and hat! does the zone sell these? Now to learn how to use this contraption LOL lots of time for that I guess. I ran the axis at 120 ipm and it just screemed good work Dave Kush the arcsin runs great! One issue would be that the acme rod whips at this speed a little probably because it is not very straight. I also found out the legs on my table need reinforcing as it wiggles a bit ah minor detail. One thing I would like to know is what steps to run at 1/2 1/4 1/8 or whatever? what would give me good speed?

THANK YOU ALL

ROB

Woohoo! Way to go Rob.

We knew you could do it. Welcome to the club.

Just wait until it actually cuts something, you'll be unable to contain yourself. Make sure that you make something for the LOYL for all that she's had to up with. ;)

Seriously, though, nice job.

Ok Joe suggested that I list where I got everything so here it goes

the 1/2-10 acme rod was from http://www.tryhard.net/ very reasonable price the store is in missisauga Canada

the bearings were from http://www.vxb.com/

the stepper motors were from www.automationdirect.com

the controll board was from Dave Kush @ http://www.buildyouridea.com/

I have to mention Phil as he was a huge help I also built his allegro 3977 controls just decided I wanted more power so I went with the arcsin.
http://www.pminmo.com/

the cables,fuses,transformer,and various electronic stuff at a place called syal not sure if they have a web site but they are in the victoria park and steeles area anyone wants directions just message me.

40000uf cap was from http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=home

all of the hdpe parts including motor mounts,router mount and bearing blocks from our one and only joecnc2006@yahoo.com I like to mention Joe has been a great source of knowledge and an inspiration. thanks Joe

Anyone who wants to share Canadian suppliers and contacts would help alot of us who get nailed by the stupid broker fees. I only had a problem with automation direct because they sent the motors UPS.

well I still have a ton to learn but now begins the fun part of this project soon I will be making some chips yahooo! I will post the finished machine and upgrades to come. The wood gantry will be replaced by alluminim it was just a stepping stone to get where I wanted.

Rob

Rob,

I searched the menu at www.tryhard.net and cannot find acme rod, is it under a different name.

Jason

Nice job Rob.
Where abouts in the GTA are you? I work right behind Tryhard in Mississauga.
I have bought a lot of stuff from out of country and I too have been hit with heavy broker fees. I bought my bearings from T.O. bearings in miss.

Rob,

I searched the menu at www.tryhard.net and cannot find acme rod, is it under a different name.

Jason

Hi Jason I just called them and they got it from a local supplier I think didn't take long and they were half the price of brofasco and the acme rod was in much better condition.

Nice job Rob.
Where abouts in the GTA are you? I work right behind Tryhard in Mississauga.
I have bought a lot of stuff from out of country and I too have been hit with heavy broker fees. I bought my bearings from T.O. bearings in miss.

Hi Jason I live in a town called Zephyr just 25min north east of Newmarket. When you say bearings do you meen linear for the axis and if so if you don't mind me asking what kind of prices?

Rob

I bought angular contact ball bearings from them, no linear stuff. I either had salvaged linear stuff from old equipment or bought from ebay/nook/roton respectively

iam out on the west end of the GTA in HAlton

Well some good news I localized my stalling problems to vibration I tightend the x acme rod as tight as I dare and now I can get 60ipm without issues.
I still have to work on the z and I think the problem there is similar I think the motor shaft and acme rod are to close I will let you guys know as soon as I try it out.
The lesson I learned here is that vibration is a big speed killer!


Rob

well I spoke to soon when I mounted my router I manually jogged the axis and they all worked fine except I can't get more than 60ipm on x and y and only 30 on the z which I can live with for now but when I try to run a program the machine has a hard time moving this really gets me confused I am hoping it is some silly setting or somethind simple.
Some details I have the arcsin board from buildyouridea.com and my power suply is around 34v 10A when I run a program or jog the axis the motors hardly get warm the steppers are from automation direct and are 276oz/in I really hope someone can shed some light on this I spent most of a day trying to figure this out.

thank you Rob

well here is a sign I cut on my router, man do I like this vcarve pro makes me look like I know what I am doing LOL!

Those came out really clean.
Another example of VCarvePro having the ability to pay for itself in no time.

Jason

Truman,
Great machine. The Vcarve sign is really nice too.
I am building a machine with the Arsin board and the same Automation Direct motors that you have. I 'm using Joe's design, slightly modified so I can build without an existing CNC to cut the parts. The gantry and the X-axis are finished. I'm glad to see someone else with a similar setup. Are you using TuboCNC, Mach, or something else?

You said that your machine had a hard time getting moving and that 60 ipm was top speed. Have you weighed your gantry? It looks similar in size to mine which weighs 57 lbs as pictured. I wonder if you were to change your acceleration curve if it would be able to startup easier. 50 to 60 lbs is a lot of weight to get moving. I don't know if we can expect to get feed rates much better than 60 or maybe 80 ipm. Any thoughts?

Keep up the good work.
Mike

for me I think it is facing the facts I based my gantry loosely on Joes 2nd machine as you can tell I used thk bearings on mine so I had to modify my design, also my gantry is wider than Joes it is about 38", I used 3/4" mdf doubled for the uprights and I can't draw very well in cad. What I am trying to say is I may have a very heavy gantry with some parts slightly off not to mention it is hard to get a perfectly straight piece of acme rod and mine has a slight wobble I am still very surprised at how accurate it is I made some measurements and the repeatability of the machine is better than I imagined. now that I have my router to locate holes accurately and cut good acurate parts I will be rebuilding the gantry and making new endplates for the x axis I am hoping this will allow me to get better performance out of the machine I would really like to cut at 80ipm like Joe and eventually the machine will be all alluminum. I am still having a great time and have learned a great deal since begining this project and hopefully it will show in the modifications I make soon. The arcsin board rocks I love it although it may be a challenge to hook up home and limit switches, it figures dave is adding these features to the next generation arcsin. Your gantry looks fine for weight I don't think you have anything to worry about trust me these things have alot of torque just ask me what happened to one of my clamps that I wasn't paying any attention to snapped it like a twig did nothing to the machine just kept on going.

sorry ranted there for a bit didn't answer your question. I am using mach3 well worth the money

Yeah, the Arcsin2 should be pretty cool. I have been thinking about how to connect limit and e-stop, etc. I am thinking of running the parallel cable from the mach3 machine to a box where I will mount the joystick, e-stop, master power switch and some other stuff maybe. I bought some 25-pin solder-on db ports at radio shack to mount in the box, one male, one female. I figure I can separate the pins for limit switches before it goes to the Arcsin. I bought some modular switches from Automation Direct that will allow up to six contactors on one actuator (button). I thought I would wire up the e-stop with two normally closed. One to cut off power from the transformer to the motor connection on the Arcsin, and the other to signal Mach3 that an e-stop has occured. I guess one more normally closed could cut power to the spindle too.

I have read a lot of postings and have seen almost nothing on how people wire these things up. So I don't know if this is a good plan or not.

I think we might have to talk with dave on that one wiring is my weakest skill and I probably will have to see pictures and diagrams I know there is a diagram on the site on how to wire estop and home limit switches but I havn't looked at them closely yet.


Rob

I think we might have to talk with dave on that one wiring is my weakest skill and I probably will have to see pictures and diagrams I know there is a diagram on the site on how to wire estop and home limit switches but I havn't looked at them closely yet.


Rob

Rob I suffer from the same malady, when it comes to electronics. And only after much discussion and searching my machine is finally coming together. It was very painful, I started it three years ago, bought all the parts, finished the build but it came to a screeching halt when it came to wiring it., I ran into Electronic brain overload and everyone was communicating to me in electronic technical terms, so I gave up for about two years. It was only recently that I found someone that spoke English and made SIMPLE detailed drawings and it is gradually sinking in.

This posting deals with the connection on my breakout board:
I got it as a bare board from EMC http://www.embeddedtronics.com/ $15 and ordered parts from Digi-Key $38.50. I don’t have any problem soldering or reading layout and big color pictures. He He

This board is optically isolated. This prevents the voltages from going back up into your PC via the parallel port and damaging your PC.

This breakout board only has four inputs for Homing and limit switches. So I used 3 for homing and limit, Mach 3 can handle this. And the fourth handles the other three limit switches wired in series.
By connecting the three limit switches in series the machine still shuts down if any one is hit, you simply have to look for it, but that’s pretty easy.

I have come up with this drawing that works for my CNC.
(Seems I cannot attach a drawing at this time. will post it as soon as I can)

Good luck
Hager

Hi Rob,

Your VCarved Sign looks fantastic!

What cutters did you use?
Did you have to do much hand finishing?

Tony Mac

Rob, I sent a copy of this drawing to Dave to get his take on it. If I understand the Mach3 manual, we can use a single parport pin to run both limit switches on one axis. One of the limit switches can also act as a home switch. So all limit and home switches can be wired using three pins plus one ground. As I said before "If I understand the Mach3 manual". I will let you know when I hear back from Dave.

Any thoughts from those who have already done this would be welcome.

I have removed a few details on the e-stop that I was unsure of, to prevent anyone from having problems in the event that I was mistaken on that part of the wiring.

I used a 1/4 inch 2 flute upcut carbide endmill and a 60deg sign maker bit is what they called it I think I got the vbit from lee valley tools the endmill is a freud. No I didn't have to do much finishing just a little touch up on some corners where they kind of fuzzed out. here is another. oh ya and a pic of my router.



Hi Rob,

Your VCarved Sign looks fantastic!

What cutters did you use?
Did you have to do much hand finishing?

Tony Mac

Very nice work Bob and thanks for posting the pictures!

Tony

After spending the day reading threads on the zone, I may have found a small issue with the way I was thinking of wiring the e-stop. Cutting power to the steppers will cause them to lose holding power. Not a big deal for X and Y but the Z-axis could possibly freewheel and fall to the table. I wonder if cutting power to the 12 volt logic would stop the motors but still make them hold in place?

Rob, I sent a copy of this drawing to Dave to get his take on it. If I understand the Mach3 manual, we can use a single parport pin to run both limit switches on one axis. One of the limit switches can also act as a home switch. So all limit and home switches can be wired using three pins plus one ground. As I said before "If I understand the Mach3 manual". I will let you know when I hear back from Dave.

Any thoughts from those who have already done this would be welcome.

Hmmmm Take the X Axis, Home/limit at one end of travle and the limit switch at the other end of travle and they are in series, how does mach 3 know which one has been contacted????

I don't think it matters if Mach knows which one as long as it stops motion so it can't crash. The opertator will be able to tell which one by looking at the machine.

I don't think it matters if Mach knows which one as long as it stops motion so it can't crash. The opertator will be able to tell which one by looking at the machine.

Yes I underst andstopping isn't a problem, as any sw it hits it stops and backs up off the switch, but how does it know which direction home is?

I don't have mine all set up yet so I don't have a good answer for that. I suspect that unless it has completely lost its bearings, it should have some idea of where it is in absolute coordinates. If not, you might just have to manually move it off of the switch.

Rob, I sent a copy of this drawing to Dave to get his take on it. If I understand the Mach3 manual, we can use a single parport pin to run both limit switches on one axis. One of the limit switches can also act as a home switch. So all limit and home switches can be wired using three pins plus one ground. As I said before "If I understand the Mach3 manual". I will let you know when I hear back from Dave.

Any thoughts from those who have already done this would be welcome.

This method is correct. I can use it and just use three connnections rather than the four I thought I needed. I will go with this method and have one connector left over. Good thing I havent wired my switches yet. Thanks for the clarification.

Reference: “Using Mach3 Mill, Rev 1.84-A2 Page 4-10 section 4.6.4

In the second paragraph it explains using two switches in series and having one a limit and the other a limit/home. “You define, to Mach 3, a direction as the direction to travel to move when looking for a reference switch. The limit switch (vane or ramp) at that end of the axis is also the home switch.”

The term reference is interchangeable with home.

Hager

I'm glad it helped.

You probably shouldn't use my wiring diagram as a reference since I haven't actually tried it yet and don't know if the pinouts I have selected are correct. It was intended to help me better understand the wiring and to solicit input from others with more experience.

Mike

I'm glad it helped.

You probably shouldn't use my wiring diagram as a reference since I haven't actually tried it yet and don't know if the pinouts I have selected are correct. It was intended to help me better understand the wiring and to solicit input from others with more experience.

Mike

It is a very good drawing. I will simply change the pin out to fit my maching.
And the 4th connection which has now been freed up will be used for E-Stop.
My E-Stop switch has two lines one for the 4th connection and the other for the Transformer.

Your drawing has answered questions I hadn't asked yet.

Every Newbie needs this drawing.

Hager

It is a very good drawing. I will simply change the pin out to fit my maching.
And the 4th connection which has now been freed up will be used for E-Stop.
My E-Stop switch has two lines one for the 4th connection and the other for the Transformer.

Your drawing has answered questions I hadn't asked yet.

Every Newbie needs this drawing.

Hager

I'm glad you found it helpful.

If you are talking about using the e-stop for the transformer that powers the steppers as I show it in the drawing, you may want to hold off on that. Again, I am not certain, but cutting power to the steppers may cause the Z-axis to crash into the table since the motor would probably lose its holding torque when it loses power. In fact, I think I should probably change that on the drawing until I have tested this. I wouldn't want anyone to find out the hard way that I was wrong.

Mike

As far as my fear of cutting off power to the steppers and having the Z-axis fall to the table, I am over it. I think that it is possible with a very heavy machine with a ball screw or at least a screw with a fast pitch and little rolling resistance. A 10-pitch acme screw should support the axis without power to the motors. With that said, I will probably go ahead and wire my e-stop to cut power to the steppers.

Rob,

I have been in contact with Dave and it looks like my wiring diagram will work. He told me that he wires all of his limit switches in one big loop on one parallel port pin with normally closed switches. This way any break in the circuit will stop the machine. He wires the home switch for each axis to its own pin. This is a little different than my idea and uses four pins total. He recommends using shielded twisted pair cable for as much of the wiring as possible. If you would like to send me an email I will forward my questions and his responses to you.
higgins@allencc.edu

As far as my fear of cutting off power to the steppers and having the Z-axis fall to the table, I am over it. I think that it is possible with a very heavy machine with a ball screw or at least a screw with a fast pitch and little rolling resistance. A 10-pitch acme screw should support the axis without power to the motors. With that said, I will probably go ahead and wire my e-stop to cut power to the steppers.

Rob,

I have been in contact with Dave and it looks like my wiring diagram will work. He told me that he wires all of his limit switches in one big loop on one parallel port pin with normally closed switches. This way any break in the circuit will stop the machine. He wires the home switch for each axis to its own pin. This is a little different than my idea and uses four pins total. He recommends using shielded twisted pair cable for as much of the wiring as possible. If you would like to send me an email I will forward my questions and his responses to you.
higgins@allencc.edu

Thanks,

His way was like my last layout, but I'm using your layout. Both ways will work now that I understand how they work work with Mach3.

I started wiring my switches in today. Had to remake a couple of brackets because of interfearence.
I anm using 1/2" acme and delrin on this machine, so there is lots of friction, have had my router on it and it will not fall with the power off.
Good news about the E-Stop switch I'll use the drawing as my guide.

I'm using shielded wire and it looks twisted too, I didn't specify that when I baught it. Used shielded wire from controller to steppers too. Heard lots of stories about non shielded wire, sometime there is interference.

Thanks for the offer of email, I'll keep that in mind.

Thanks
Hager

well here is another sign. And I also ordered my limit switches hopefully be here this week or first of next week.

well here is the first alluminum part I cut on my machine I was very happy with it it was only out about 2thou. I screwed up when I made the toolpath by selecting inside instead of outside edge for the path to cut it out. I cut it at 30ipm and took 0.030" passes very light but well worth the wait if you are wondering what it is it is a bearing block hope to upgrade all of the hdpe. oh ya I used a two flute upcut carbide endmill at 16000 rpm.

Wow, that looks great. Have you already replaced your MDF gantry with aluminum? If so how about some pictures?

no I havn't replaced it yet I am working on the small pieces right now that was all I cut so far but I will be cutting more soon and I will post everything as I go

Rob

well I made some modifications and cut my bearing blocks in mdf they turned out perfect

Rob

well here is the first alluminum part I cut on my machine I was very happy with it it was only out about 2thou. I screwed up when I made the toolpath by selecting inside instead of outside edge for the path to cut it out. I cut it at 30ipm and took 0.030" passes very light but well worth the wait if you are wondering what it is it is a bearing block hope to upgrade all of the hdpe. oh ya I used a two flute upcut carbide endmill at 16000 rpm.

Did you use any kind of cutting fluid when you machined these?

those ones are just mdf but for the alluminum I squirted a little wd40 as it cut works well.

Rob