Here is the place for assembly of the new Shoptask Bridgmill that arrived shortly.
http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/medium/2159All_the_parts.jpg

Here I am bringing the last item down to the basement.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159down_the_steps.jpg

Looks sturdy, and nice clean basement.

:)

Eric

Yes.....have been working at it after it flooded with 16 inches of sewer backup this last spring. As for the woodworking, A good habit to get into is to always allow time to vacuum, sweep, or whatever after every job.
By the way, I got the camtronics CNC gecko power supply assembled already and the servo motors are waiting to be installed once the 3 in 1 kit is assembled.
I plan to build a router table using this machine.

For those who like photos....who doesn't?

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159pdrm0036.jpg

another pic.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159pdrm0005.jpg

Sweet, great area for a machine!

nice lookin machine

Thanks all for your comments! Now I have to live up to 'em.
I'll add more pics as assembly and modifications progress.
John

here's a pick just after unloading and removal of crate.
It's not really a kit but to get it in the basement easily, I disassembled it and brought the lighter components down.
Right now I am in the process of repainting the parts a darker color. Geee! If you paint, even with a sixpack of spray bombs, have a way to draw out the overspray or everything gets a dusting. The cardboard barriers I set up weren't adequate.....and my toes turned blue. :(

Here's some repainted parts. Some have been stripped and others just rubbed with scotch pad(roughed up) and overcoated.
used Rustoleum "Hammered" which seems to be very durable.....when it finally dries.
...can't wait 'til I'll be mounting the servo motors.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159blue_parts.jpg

I've been tweaking things as they are put together. The yellow Arm on the right is the mill head support to remove vertical deflection. I will modify this to also minimize fore and aft movement ....maybe rebuild it entirely and turn the spider(not shown here) 90 degrees to the end. Clearances will determine feasibility.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159shoptask1.jpg

Here's a little problem. Dan from camtronics sent the servo mounting plates. I test fitted this one and found that the counter bore for the motor mount flange is a bit too small for the collar of the motor. If the plate is flipped it fits flush, but of course then the counter bore is on the inside. I know Dan's been real busy so I can underestand this slipping by him. I'll see if he has another one with the correct bore diameter and on the right side of the plate. No big deal as there are many things to do before this machine will be running.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/medium/2159y_axis_servo_mount1.jpg

Here's a shot of the undercarriage and a peek at the ball screw nut behind its mount.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159the_x_axis.jpg

Hey, wait a minute. Don't you have a Shoptask machine? Open the bore on the Servo plate with the lathe... ;)

Sorry, not trying to be a smarty pants but that was just screaming to be said...

Ya, I thought of just "fixing" it after the machine is up and running, but I would be embarrassed to send out an item like this to a customer. Things I didn't mention were:
1. The plate is already marginal thickness for rigidity, so trimming off the top edge will structurally weaken it further, although I may add standoffs to the unsupported corners.
2. the plate is not square. The top edge is a good .25in shorter than the bottom edge. This dosen't affect performance and will not be seen often, but it bothers me. This plate came with the servos and I would kinda like the part to be somewhat accurate.
3. I don't have access to aluminum(yet) in this small town and would have to order materials.

As long as I can remember(which is getting shorter) very few items shipped to me are as prescribed. Most all need some sort of alteration, mending, missing replacement parts, etc. This was supposed to be a simple square plate. I'm guessing that it was bored out with a cnc machine that didn't make a perfect circle, judging from the mill marks.

Where is our pride in craftsmanship?

Yeah I feel your pain... Stuff like that I totally expect to have to futz around with after I get it anymore. But I'd have expected the Square to be... well, "square". But for that very reason is why I've gotten into the DIY mindset. I Hate buying things that I can make myself.

But you did pay for the mounts. So You should probably ask Camtronics to correct the problem...

I'd be tempted to make my own with the shop task after it was running in manual mode just to have an excuse to use the machine for the first time. (At least you get it made to your own satisfaction. No disappointment)

A couple of hours and some 1/4" thick Aluminum. Not too bad.

(I'm jealous of the shoptask BTW.... ) :)

Thanks Anoel,
The lathe wasn't without its issues. Right now(well, right now I'm typing) the x axis lead screw cover is undergoing reshaping so both the carriage and tail stock can slide freely to their full distances without scraping and dragging on the cover/guard.

Bloy,
I like the way how the stand of the machine is designed. Why did you do a color change?........just curious!
I like your place it looks well organised and CLEAN!

Klox

Hi Klox,
Sorry I wasn't here to quickly answer you. My computer was probably online, but I was down taking play out of the mill feed and planning the new fifth collumn support.
Although I liked the original yellow, I changed the color based on a few factors.
1. While taking the machine apart I noticed many components were painted assembled. Breaking the painted joints left uneven lines and many times contrasting chips....too many to touch up.
2. Some oiler caps were painted over and removal of paint was easiest just to put the whole part in paint remover.
3. A darker color, in this case my wifes favorite, will not show the soiling so blatantly once the machine is put to use. If I know myself, I will leave a project pending to do another(especially for work-i'm a woodworker) and I won't be wiping down the machine after each use. Chips, however, will be removed.
4. Just to give it a personal feel. It's the first metal lathe/mill I've had other than a used Craftsman 7 incher modified with a cam lever to apply pressure to the worn out split nut.

I expected this when saving for, researching and ordering the shoptask as it is one way they keep the price down. To get a machine with individually masked and painted components would cost dearly.
John M

Here is the mount plate. Dan at Camtronics replied that he was indeed sorry for the slip-up and that he would get at the replacement as soon as he gets some present orders fulfilled.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159y_axis_motor_mount_a.jpg

Just another pic

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159pdrm0024.jpg

Bloy, i never thought about the things you've pointed out it makes sense though....
I have never repainted a machine, my humble apologies for thinking "this guy bought a new machine and he's repainting it, weird?" LOL!
Keep up the goog work! I hope you won't be shy on the pics...

Klox

I knew you'd understand.....;)

Oh boy! I see i'm a machinist now! :p .....but I'll always be sweeping chips....

Bloy,
Do you have more projects in the pipeline after this one? Sorry for being so bluntly curious, but i enjoy it tremendiously to see how guys like you tackle projects and finish them in such a professional way!
It makes me think of my Dad's friend, he's got a small Emco Mill & a Dashin Prince lathe at home. He built the most magnifecent stuff, my eyes nearly popped out when i visited him. It's actually a pity that his computer illeterate.....otherwise i had him joined CNCzone long time ago.

Klox

Gee Klox, those are nice words, but all I am doing is putting together a machine that someone else built. Those on this site and anywhere for that matter, who are creating their own machines from scratch or salvaged parts, or even new parts are the ones who get my admiration. I hope to use this shoptask to assist in building a router table. And there is no finer place than here at CNCZone to learn about the intricacies and options involved in tackling such a project.

Bloy,
I hope that you are following that interesting thread in CNC router forum, started by Mr. Ed.
It's very interesting & i think i'm getting that familiar itch....LOL!

Klox

a couple new photos.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159drive_system.jpg

.

http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159with_info_plates.jpg

In the picture above, what does the toothed belt drive?

Bloy,

Did you get the 600 oz/in servos from Dan? If so why are you looking at the 360 oz/in ones?

Keithorr...
That's the x axis servo motor(small pully) belted to the end of the x axis ball screw. This allows optional manual control with only a bit of drag to turn the motor with the crank at the opposite end.

Jeff...
Actually, I got 470?oz/in motors from Dan at Camtronics, but with the 3 to 1 reduction, he says they will be more than adequate. I want to get the Shoptask up and running to see this. As it is now, I have to cut out the hood for motor clearance of the Z axis, and make a mount for the motor that allows it to mount deeper into the existing frame so the pulleys line up. Sort of a flanged pocket to recess the motor.

I want to use those 360 oz/in motors for a project that I will build using this Shoptask machine. I haven't decided what exactly I will do yet, but it will be in the router table area. I've been watching and gaining info for setting a direction. I couldn't pass up that good buy for those motors....I suspect that they were produced for a specific order and maybe the project fell through....so the motors become available at clearance prices
John

Here is a shot of the 5fth column after adding fore and aft rigidity.
Sorry about the focus. That's 1/8" steel cowling on the support. Although it could have been stronger, It's pretty darned rigid, and the machine maintains it's mobility. A gusset might have been added to the upper triangulation. Also the lower plating /gussets probably should have gone right to the base.
If you notice in the photo of post #29 the mill is fully raised but the slot for the 5fth column ends short. I knew this when making the mods, but forgot to lengthen the slot before welding up the contraption. It was an enjoyable challenge to mount it on the cross slide and mill the slot longer. Good thing the Shoptask mill head can get high.


This pup is ready to go! ....manually, so far.

This is the rib added to the mill cross plate to remove flexibilty in the plate. The rib is just 1/2" hot rolled flat bar with the edges milled. I should have a pic here of the mess that was created doing this.

another view.... If you notice the Aluminum plate between the cross plate and mill head/CNC bracket, this is a spacer to align the mill axis centered over the lathe axis. It was originally 1/4" but a 6" belt sander was used to thin it for proper alignment. Nothing scientific, just trial and error-little by little until it fit. Why? I'm not sure yet but it seemed important. Maybe for indexing with the lathe spindle?
The option to turn the Quadra-lift system instead of the mill head was tabled as the thing looked a little askew where it attaches to the lathe gear box( there is a good amount of play until the device is tightened down). And too, the existing holes in the original 5fth column base needed to be elongated to bring it forward for alignment.

Thanks, Dan (at Camtronics)for sending out that Y axis mount plate. It fits like a glove.

Wow! Thoes servo motors look exactly the same as the ones I sell. Right down to the 'G' style encoder too.

Jeff:
Although the pictures lack clarity and focus, what you see for the encoder's housing is indeed the G option and none other.
Nice little servo motor units!
John

Did Dan get the motors from the same supplier?

No, Dan has purchased many of my motors from me. I get a factory break on large quantities. :D

Is there a sticker on the side of the motor that says: C23L55W30M07? If so this is my custom number I had created by the factory for me.

yes, that number, C23-L55W30M07 is on the label after U/T

I could look this up, but what exactly IS the oz/in of these motors?

They are 430 oz/in Peak at 20 amps peak. Terminal voltage is nominal 36 VDC. This means that they will supply 21.5 oz/in per amp given to them

These are the ones I sell with my plans to convert a drill/mill to CNC.

Alright! Now I'm going down to make that Zaxis motor mount.

All three axis servo motors are mounted and functional. Now I suppose a video posted somewhere is obligatory to demonstrate the machine in action actually making something.

Still some changes being made....here's a cowling for the z-axis servo. It was made from the top half of your common propane bottle. Extensions to the pivot points of the hood were added for lifting clearance. Also is Scott Shumate's DRO350. The fixture accepts the case using it's existing screw threads so the second case was easily mounted . The swivel arm holding the completed DRO was $1.00 from a garage sale....it came with an old-time cellular phone ....used to hold phone conveniently in truck/auto.

Why the DRO when CNC is there? I like to do things manually too, and now that Scott's DRO can be used with the servo encoders...... If for no other reason, the fact that I like gadgets!

This was my first operation of the CNC installation.

You'll make those boy's back at Shoptrash want extra rice when they see this pic's of your machine! LOOKING GOOD!!!

Here's that Z axis servo motor mount I had mentioned in previous posts. It's just a 3/4" hunk of aluminum squared with the mill, turned and pocketed to allow the servo to recess and achieve pully alignment. the top (unseen) has a flange secured using the existing nema 34 mounting holes. This was my first manual lathe project which enabled the CNC milling system.

Soon the castered station for enclosing the electronics will get under way.... then a shelf under the machine for flooding apparatus and storage.

I love the placement of your DRO, I think we may be moving ours from the factory position. We just installed an emergency stop button on ours to kill either the mill or lathe. All kinds of little modifications here and there.

Good lighting will help focus on subject. A small exterior dual flood light fixture was split and fitted with 50w halogens. They also are nice to work under as chilly as it is in the basement.
Now to worry about expansion of work piece and readings that are affected by it. Oh well, a portable flourescent when tolerances require stable temps...:idea: Can always pop in a couple of 25 watts with wide pins.

Here's the left fixture. The wires run into the casting and out through an opening to the switch located by the motor controls.
Also here is the mock setup of the z axis linear DRO strip. Its wire will run through the hole where the fine-feed shaft used to be and be hidden until it comes out to reach Scott Shumate's nice DRO350 kit. I had the DRO350 connected to the servo motor encoders but with the belt and ballscrews combined, there was unacceptable backlash..+/-.005. Maybe I have the gibbs set too tight causing the belts to stretch a little more before moving the carriage. In any event, what's going to happen when the bit encounters strong resistance? Linear scales will be closer to "right on" until Scott develops backlash compensation for non direct reading with the encoders in his very versatile kit.

a little note here.....
Way back in page one of this thread is a picture of the included stand/table with casters mounted under it. All work on the machine has been done while still floating on the casters without any problems. In fact, the "cushion" dampens what little vibrations there were.
Recently the adjustable feet were lowered and the weight of the machine was taken off the casters for fear that they may become "flattened". This wasn't the case though, as the casters, checked immediately, still had their shape intact. the casters were purchased from Harbor Freight and were the "better" ones... blue urethane ?

Bloy,

I just noticed that you have remove the z-axis crank on the right side. are you only going to use this machine in CNC format? Or have you removed the spring return on the drill press handle on the front?

The "fine adjustment" shaft and crank was removed because it was ineffectual. In manual mode, approximate location can be achieved by turning the main crank(the servo spins with it). sometimes I have to "jumpstart" the spindle movement by "thumbing" the ballscrew pulley. Then, a fine movement can be made by again "thumbing" the belt on the ballscrew pulley. It took a while to get the ballscrew aligned to allow the crank to spin it. The spring tension is still active although reduced. This keeps a constant upward pull on the spindle and I feel reduces backlash. The front knob is only a push/pull mechanism for engaging the fine adjustment worm gear. On the back is the spring and adjustment for auto return of the spindle.
In the future, I may figure out a more elegant way of "quick change" to manual mode for turning the ballscrew for fine adjustment. Maybe a switch to allow the servo motor to act as a simple variable speed drive motor.
As I become more adept with CNC I forsee hardly using the manual mode.....but until then.

Edit note.... the Z axis ballscrew does not turn as implied above, but instead the ballnut is connected to the pulley and does the work as the ballscrew just raises and lowers through it.

Here is a series of photos after fitting DRO scales to the axes...

y axis cover removed...
.....didn't have access to a brake for forming the cover, and when I found a place to do it, they wanted $25 for the metal and another $25 to make the bends...needless to say I declined and had the local steel supplier cut strips ($5) and I welded them together with a small Lincoln mig(gas) welder that I've had for about 15 years. A few practice trials were needed to get the wire feed and voltage/amps set properly. Then a grinding to bring the surfaces smooth.

Those welds in the background on the bridge support were made (inside) before I realized I had turned off the gas. Pretty bad...but welded outside also.

y axis view..closer

x axis scale covered...back side of machine

x axis uncovered...

x axis closeup

In the closeup picture above, the main bracket(blue) was salvaged from a discarded garage door opener and cut off to fit.
The "inside" bracket's extra hole was existing in another salvaged plate from somewhere. The cover "floats" between the two as the x axis glides back and forth. The signal wire is secured with a small clip fitted with a rubber sleeve to achieve tightness.

Mill head motorized Height adjuster...

The motor came from ebay for total $31 bucks with shipping.
Mount posts were from old discarded rod, faced and threaded 1/4" on bottom, 10-32 on top(leftover seen in foreground).

Lower coupler was 1/2" milled square to fit drive screw end.

Broader view...

The unit is solid. ....Very smooth and quiet in operation using a (on)off(on) momentary switch mounted on panel.
Further improvements....Limit switches to auto stop at top and bottom. This will eliminate keeping close eye on travel.

...am looking for a dome shaped object to paint blue and cover the setup. Maybe a large obsolete fire extinguisher?

Here is the installation of the rpm and indexing sensor for use with Mach2 in threading operations and other functions.
Wider tape strip changes signal timing enough for Mach2 to recognize spindle position. Extra "thinner" tapes allow Mach2 to make sub-corrections for threading.

Closeup of sensor...
This is a "reflective" type unit.
220 Ohm resistor for LED protection is embedded in liquid rubber applied to protect connections. Large Washers under bracket give sensor correct "reading" distance.

Wow, some real nice mods there. I will be very interested to see how well the RPM sensor works.

It works... gives the rpm of the spindle.
I'm learning how to apply it to threading....

Here's some more pictures of utility and safety features added.
...this photo is from the side and depicts the covers for the millhead lift motor and the related limiting switches.

..These are the limit switches set up and uncovered. If they fail, the millhead unit will bottom out, or top out, without damage, but is very stressful to the motor and brass ACME nut and screw.

Indicator lamps and Up-down switch..
Green indicates bridge column is tight(locked) and that the mill is ready for operation. power to the millhead lift motor is not available.
Red would indicate that the bridge column is loose and that power is supplied for raising/lowering the millhead.

The lights also indicate when the machine is plugged in(power to the entire machine).

I can't find my Transfer letters for a plate to designate the functions, but for now ,since I'm the only operator, there isn't a problem.

Bloy, you're doing such a fine job here, that it will a shame to use it! Keep it up:D

the safety switch on the bridge and support column. it's a basic spdt with a little roller on the switch arm that extends through the bridge plate and rolls on the spider hub. When the spider is tight, the roller is compressed and sets the indicator lamp while cutting power to the lift motor. The lift motor could really rack the machine if operated while the bridge is secure....thus the safety switch/lamps.
a protective cover for this is forthcoming.

...Just a backed off view to see the motor cover and other features incorporated into the machine.
Can anyone guess what that cover over the millhead lift motor might be?

Kong!
I know what you're saying....
I've used the machine quite a bit for this and that, but I got tired of sharing the crank that was used for relocating the belts(untensioning) and also for cranking up the millhead... so I had to accomplish this mod for future ease of use.
....all part of the hobby....

..there are prepared G-codes of imported jpg's(a nice feature of Mach2) that will be rendered in wood, so now I've got to devise some sort of vacuum
cowling to capture a high percentage of wood chips/dust before fixturing and routing materials.
..don't want to give the machine's joints a bad case of arthritis.
...then there's the coolant setup...only recently added a shelf under the table frame to support this.
....and too, I'm still studying/practicing threading for making that "four start" thread component of my brother's gun reloading antique.

I'm saving up now for a new cleanup brush.....the bristles on the old one are stubbles now.

Hehe, just wait 'till you get the flod coolant setup! I took the first cuts with my new lathe yesterday, and that coolant got everywhere - the bolt holes that hold the lathe to the stand were even leaking, but I got some silicone in there now:D

Ya! I'm nervous as hell about turning on the flood...probably why it's been delayed for so long...
Back when first mounting the bed to the stand, I added rubber gaskets and sealant to the bolts that pass through the "tray"(stand top) and plugged the extra holes with epoxy... Have been looking at all sorts of videos of flooding operations to get an idea of how the liquid disperses while cutting.

The biggest problem I have, is that the drain plug is proud of the tray by about 1/16", so after I am done, I need to soak up the last bit of coolant with paper towels. I'll get something sorted out at the weekend, I'm thinking of using the drain section from a wash-basin plug hole. Sorry, now I'm taking over your fine thread with my own problems!:cool:

not at all!.....that's what the purpose of this thread is for! I'm demonstrating how I solved problems on the machine and you are inputing yours.....which happens also to be a problem that confronts me yet.

I can see that when using flooding, it will collect in my tray around the edges...there is an upward buckle in the center region. Have thought of maybe attaching a bracket to "pull" the center down and maybe allowing most to drain there.

Another option would be to have multiple "drains" around the perimeter all joining to the common basin for filtering and recycle.

A third option would be to "cant" the whole setup (table and machine) slightly forward so the coolant flows forward and collects along the front edge where is then drains....seems to me that as long as all the planes and axes remained aligned that would be okay. I'm not sure if I would want to slope the machine away and to the back....either way it won't be much.

Let me know of YOUR solution. okay?

Here we go, the current problem I have, is the exit hole on the right is too high. I thought of adding a drain like the ones used on the bath-tub or sink, which is secured by a single central screw.

http://www.btinternet.com/~jasonrsmith/Lathe/tray1.jpg

As you can see, the screw is central, so no big rim to get in the way of the coolant, and I can drill the 8 or so holes in the tray for good coolant flow. From the underside, I will need some sort of "blanking cap" to seal the drain, then I can epoxy a brass hose connector in place.

http://www.btinternet.com/~jasonrsmith/Lathe/tray2.jpg

The only problem is loads of swarf may get washed down there, but since I have a crude plastinc filter on the coolant box, Ihoep this will not be a problem. I will get this implemented at the weekend, since my father has a lot of plumbing gear to save me buying it. Should be ok:D

Great! Some of that "open cell" mesh over the drain may work as a "pre" filter to minimize the swarf that gets into the hose. I like your solution and may have several of these located around the table/tray as the metal has warps creating highs and low in the surface. Also, is there a lot of "slinging" of coolant going on that would require splash guards at strategic locations? I'm sure I'll find out when running that first large bit at a rapid RPM. :)

P.S. What program are you using for your rendering? I get that 3D feel from your pictures.

Ooh, the software is expensive.....NOT! I use Turbocad 8 Pro. You can pick it up from Australia for 65 of their dollars which is dirt cheap for the quality. Have a look here http://www.narellansoftware.com/
As for slinging coolant, yep, the majority of it goes to the back of the lathe - I have a piece of tufnol propped up behind it to drip back into the tray. Of course, you get it in the belly, all over the chuck, in the air, you get the picture:drowning: It's not too bad though, but then I have only been using it for the last two days, so I'm sure it will only get worse!

I just checked our bathtub...it's got the exact same drain you are demonstrating....about 1.5 inches diameter with a screw in the middle holding the grid down.
Well, my wife won't let me have it, so its off to the plumbing store to gather parts....
...nah....got to put fluid in the tray first to know the status of the unevenness...and if there are leaks.

Thanks loads, Kong!

i got a engine transmision table fro harbor freight 89.00 1000 # capacity it already has a slanted tray under it to drain fluid to the middle rear with a 1 " nipple i then went to wally world and got a stainless steal sink strainer the fine mesh type around 2 bucks rtv'ed it upside down on the top side of the drain to filter chips even when the tray gets full of chips the fluid still drains into the resevoir . it drains over night the next day i vacum all the chips out and repeat the process it works great even has a rear spash gard that i added plexiglass to it is a flood system . it is for the smithy 3n1 around the same size as the shoptask there is a pic in the gallery and some on my website if interested i can take some upclose of the table thought i might share this tidbit Kenneth

Your shop looks like it could also double as a classroom! I've examined your photo gallery before and got the same feeling this time......Inspiration!
Right now my limited RC collection is rather dispersed. Sometime I'll narrate the story of my modified "Manta" amphibious pusher and how it skimmed a submerged rock while doing test runs on a bay inlet.

testing the kb's allowed...

This is the fifth column basemounting
.. a flat bar stock heat-bent around the inside corner, welded to the existing support bracket and then drilled and tapped at several locations. Bolts could be shorter but those are all I had at the time.

There's Dan Mauch's(Camtronics) power supply and driver case in the background.

Bloy, I just had a quick thought about those limit switches you were on about a while ago. I don't know how it would work for your machine, but for a standard lathe, I was thinking of mounting the switch onto an adjustable carriage stop, which would then be slid along the ways, and locked in position where needed. Just a thought!

Kong
Thanks for the tip! ....have been concentrating on some other projects lately, but your suggestion along with Ballendo's use of a stereo jack in series with the limits will make this a nice accessory. Just plug it in and slide to position. Thanks again.

Just another "dated" photo. The monitor on the right is from my '98 "dell" pentiumII. Have rebuilt everything else to an Athlon 2600/Asus A7V333/512mg from Ebay.
http://www.cnczone.com/gallery/data/500/2159machine4.JPG

No one's guessing what the motor cover depicted in posts #68 and #73 is made from....
Anyone care to take a stab at it?

Erm, baked bean tin?:D

Good try Kong. You're close in that it IS a kitchen related object.

That's a soup pot!

No, it is a container but not for soup....
Hint ... it came from "Family Dollar" general store.

Small bathroom metal trash container

Ken

its not metal ....and not a trash container.

Rats, does that mean I don't win the three servo's ?.............................Oh....wait........ that was another contest :D

Can we have more then one guess ?


Just in case we can:

It is............................. ummmmmmmm................ uhhhhhhhhh............. how about a ........................... water container for a coffee pot ?

Water is usually kept in it....although not exclusively.

Hint:

Lol, a plastic beaker type thing, I can just imagine the wife coming home with it, filling it up with juice, putting it in the fridge to chill, and you're like:wee:
How did the paint take to it anyways?

Yah, it's a three quart pitcher with removable spout/lid.

After cutting off the handle, flange on the bottom(ie roundness), and lipped top, I sanded the whole thing. That rustoleum "hammered" spray paint takes a while to dry but it sticks to just about anything. No primer required.

Is that paint in a spray can or do you need to put it in a paint sprayer?

The "hammered" comes in regular spray cans. It is also available in quarts for using your own sprayer.
Here's a site to check:
http://www.rustoleum.com/Product.asp?ddf=73&frm_product_id=21&SBL=1

testing this thread

Bloy,

Concerning your CNC project, why are you opting for rack and pinion x-axis drive over ball screw? I suppose turning a long ballscrew requires a good bit of inertia, compared to rack and pinion. Did you ever consider a screw for the x-axis?

Long delay .....
If I were to go with screw for the x axis I would need two, one for each side. The travel of the y will be 3 feet so if applying force with one screw (in the middle) there would be a loss of accuracy at the ends as I am sure the gantry would "rack" a bit. So, I would need two for truer parallel movement under force. That would be much more expensive than using two rack and pinions. From ebay I got two nice (unused), strong and very cheap ($30 ea.)slender planetary gearmotors with 1:12 ratio for driving the pinions. The brushes aren't yet seated onto the brilliant uncirculated commutator.
The Zaxis is set up now with the y axis but I am unhappy with the distance the router bit (spindle) is from the yaxis---it may introduce too much flex. But I may "rip (cut) the y axis in two and remount the 3/4"glide rods and accompanying open Thomson bearings to a backplate frame widening them and bringing them closer to the z (router) spindle. Also, turning the bearings to utilize their strength in relation to the forces applied while cutting. It isn't advantageous to have the forces against the "open" part of the Thomson bearings. I will be happy if I can do SOME light aluminum work and still maintain accuracy. This is mostly for wood and other easily cut materials.
I would have prefered THK ? or similar but again, the prices prevented them...at least for this machine in its first assembly.

Hi, This is Dave florence can you give me the name of the motor that you used on the quadralift. I can get one for me from the company. Looking Good!
Thanks You Dave
Dfgdx1@aol.com

Dave,
I've sent you an email regarding the quadralift motor.

Bloy

Hi Bloy, If your machine is up and running, perhaps you would consider cleaning up my crude armature turning tool. I built it with a hacksaw, drill press and a file. Yolb

heh! Funny you should just mention that now! Just yesterday I turned down a commutator of a big diameter 1.5 hp (maybe over rated) 90VDC motor and kinda messed it up. I had to turn it with a "sharp" bit after,but the spaces were already clogged. So I then proceded to make a jig using a dremel with a thin abrasive disc to clean out all the commutator grooves by using the Zaxis (in lathe mode) to traverse the grooves. Whew.....got it together and it runs nicely......with nary a spark out from the brushes.

Bloy

Here's a pic of the motor...of course I had to paint it (rustolium "Hammered")
before reassembly :)
It's going to be tested as a variable speed replacement for the existing AC motor on the shoptask...not sure if it will have the "OOOmph" needed. At low speeds it will have a forced air cooling fan and shrowd out the back.

I've added a tool drawer under the table. Although only partiallly extended, it has full extension glides. My thighs push it closed after tools are selected.
This addition helps keep the stuff cleaner which beforehand got set in the bed tray and covered with chips and spray runoff. Some tools would get pushed under the bed and too much time was used looking for that missing tool :)
Also just another space for storing things.

While I'm in this thread, I thought I should mention that Yolb2005 (post 109) turned out to be a crosstown "friend" who gave me the 90VDC motor (for exchange of sealing his hangar roof) and pulled me in to his little posting joke. He was being :devious: but :cheers:

Hey Bloy:

I guess then you opted not to use a cooling system. I remember a while back you were contemplating a drain under the rack. What are you using for lubricant/cooling now?

Eric Q.

P.S. I had a grumbling noise on my mill motor. From previous threads I figured it was the points on the motor but turned out the pulley was loose. Sure makes a lot of racket. Anyhow, I'll be curious if your new motor works well for you.

Eric,
You're right. I'm not using a flood system. At this time I use a manually pressurized spray can with usually WD-40 from a gallon bulk container, or any number of other lubicating fluids in hand spray cans. There has been some thought for making an adjustable misting system (that is dense enough not to atomize) and eliminate the finger pressing of the nozzle. some jobs I've done require only sporadic doses, while others need constant but small doses of coolant/lubricant.
ONCE, I was cutting steel at too rapid rpms 'cause it was such a small operation between other longer ones and I was lazy. It worked as long as I had constant spray. I turned away for a second and returned attention just in time to see many sparks flying from the burning tool flutes (or what used to be the flutes :( )

I think a whole new mounting bench design would be my future project to incorporate flooding with ideal capture and guarding of fluids. I'm really a hobbyist here and there is no "high production runs" so what I have now works okay. The thought of that coolant festering in all the machine parts between jobs(which can be days or weeks) makes me cringe.

Hi John,

It's been a year since your last post here and I was wondering how the machine and your CNC motor sizing has worked out. I've seen your posts on the router you made with the shoptask and it looks awesome.

I have a Tri-Power that I will be CNCing and your experiences will be close to valid for it too. In particular I'm interested in what size motors you are using( have they changed?) and what you think about them. Ive' measured the torques required to move my table when I have the gibs and screws tightend for accuracy and get much larger numbers like 200 oz-in for 50 ipm rapids.

I'm also wondering about what kind of accuracy your able to get.

Thanks for any help.

Hi bicycleboy,
I've got the 430oz-in motors. They run with a 36VDC supply. I think I will be putting them at 48VDC with plenty of amps. I got them from Dan Mauch at Camtronics. I under stand that they will perform at higher voltages, but they could get warmer, and the brushes may wear faster.
This way they will have a little more oomph while having the gibs tighter.

As for the accuracy, some tasks (turning) I can get right on....other tasks I just seem to never get it right. so many variables....tool holding, tool position, feed speed, number of finish passes, etc etc. For the mill, I still have to contend with the initial .003 ballscrew slop when doing part profiles/perimeters, etc. Round holes are pretty good with compensation, but if they need to be critically accurate, I would plan for reaming or if milling for bearing races or the like, I haven't needed anything requiring perfect fit.

Bloy2004
I don't know how you wire the "reflective" sensor with a computer to read in Mach. Do you have to supply power supply and how to? Could you please help explaining to me? Thank in advance for your helps.

Shoptask owners,

I write for a national magazine on the subject of home machine shops. My Shoptask needs, no surprise, an overhaul to get it to perform as it should. My plan is to do that overhaul and document it in a series of articles. Any and all help will be attributed (fame if not wealth).

I'll want to start with the mill head. The problems I'd like to fix are: generally noisy, loose quill, collets hang up on the key, quill doesn't fully extend, motor starting points weld together. I don't have any problems with cracked castings (I hope!) or leaking oil.

Has anyone gone through this beast and solved these issues? If you would care to participate in this venture please contact me.

I do not have CNC or any upgrades as yet, those are future projects for publication after the basic machine is tuned up.

Thanks

Hi. I have a Shoptask Eldorado Bridgemill circa 2003. I have corrected the noisy mill head and the collet key clearance issues.

For my noisy mill head issue, it turned out the problem was related to the pulley on the motor. While stopped it felt tight but when running the pulley was obviously loose and would move around causing an almost grinding sound. This was corrected by using a chisel on the key to make protrusions causing the key to become slightly larger. So far this has worked for me. Not sure how long the 'fix' will last.

Regarding the key being too tall in the mill head, I took a dremel with the flexible extension adapter and put this into the vice on the table with a grinding bit in it inserted into the mills collet receptacle. Then I used the x and y axis to position the grinding bit so it just barely touched the collet key. Then using the z axis, run the mill head up and down each time moving the grinder just a bit more until enough was taken off of the key. This allowed me to skip disassembling the mill head.

I'm starting my CNC conversion with motors also purchased from Dan Mauch only I went with steppers vs. servos primarily because I was smitten by the hardiness of the G203v drivers. I plan on taking a few pictures of this along the way as well.

Hope this info was helpful and coherent. :-)

Good luck on your rebuild and I look forward to the answers to some of your other issues such as the loose quill/Z axis backlash.

Eric Q.

swansborobob:

Replace all bearings with Timkins, file the R-8 collet pin, and you may have to jack it out if it protrudes in to far, Replace those chinese piece of do-do motors with VFd's or CD around 2hp each. If you have the money, send the bed, and saddle, and Y axis to a Matchine tool rebilder and have them redo your ways they are in need of work, (this includes your tailstock). Clean out your lathe head gears there is usually sand in there.
If you have CNC goto a double ball nut, or if you can affort it, goto ground ball screws and preloaded nuts. Remake the Z axis CNC spindle driving arm with a solid steel one, the cast one will flex, set your Z axis spring where it exerts a upward force to eliminate your z axis back lash.

There are several pics of my machine on this site, my machine is not as prety as Johns, but it has 4th and 5th axis capability with a 4th axis and Trunion table.
Read-A-Head swap arm ATC and 8 position turret ATC on in the last stages of completion. BUT, knowing what I know now, I would definatly build my own from the ground up, or retrofit a Mechanically sound commercial machine........

Scott

Swansboro,
I spoke with JT at Shoptask about some of the above issues. It seems that the first batch of Bridgemill machines with R-8 spindle had the issue of the oversized key. That was corrected and has not been a problem since 2003. Also they have a new motor design since then as well. The Tri-Power no longer uses the older style quill with the rack drive. This has been replaced by a new quill driven by a machined steel plate directly from the mill power feed gearbox and the travel has been increased to 4". When I asked JT about the sand in the castings problem, he told me it was common in the 80's before the factory had a vibratory cleaner. However, it has cropped up again on a few machines and he is at a loss to understand why.

Fastlane,
I have one of the last Bridgemills built, delivered February 2006, and the key in the mill spindle needed to be filed down. Any R8 Collet from any source woould not fit. The previous owner stripped the draw bar threads trying to get the collet to fit. My machine hasn't developed the casting problems noted, but I do have a problem with the set screws on the saddle gibs. The casting is oversized around one of them and I can't tighten the jam nut.

David

JT love to lie so don't believe him without asking the users. He has a problem with sand in the oil and he does not check. He justs puts oil in the gearbox. We get stuck cleaning the gearbox. Just ship the machine back and make him remove all the gears and spindle . He need to know we no longer will put up with this kind of crap.

DGA-
Did you buy the machine used? As I understand, the Bridgemill was discontinued in favor of the tri-power in 2005. On my machine, the gib adjustment nuts were for a 14 mm wrench and it was difficult to get the wrench on them- I just replaced them with the more common 13 mm size and problem solved.

This is a brand new tri power. I have to fix it because JT will just send another piece of crap. I just want him to give me good castings. He always tells you he will work with you and then nothing happens. No dates of delivery or anything. He hopes you fix the problem so he doesn't have to. The man is a low life and not to be trusted. The second spindle casting had cracks in it hid by that lead paint they use. We shouldn't have to fix a new machine. I wont get my money back but warning everyone about JT will send JT a message. He should of taken care of my problem and not pulled this kind of crap. If you want the shoptask thats fine but hold JT acountable for the poor workmanship. I still think it has potential. But JT doesn't he acts so supprised when you tell him your problem. Ten minutes later someone else contacts him with the same problem and he puts on the same act with them. I will warn all of you for as long as it take to get his attention. So expect me to be here for a long time. JT is a special case and it will take alot of time to get him to change his ways. Here is a picture of the reason I have not to sent the machine back. I ordered this stuff before I found the problems with the castings. I fixed one of the spindle castings and it's good to go. But that does not in no way get JT off the hook. It cost 175.00 to fix the cracked area on the casting. JT doesn't want to pay for it so he has to get me a new casting and he can have the fixed one when he sends me a good new one. I had to fix it or I coulld not run the machine. This is what JT is known for being so slow with parts you fix it yourself.

where did you get the optical sensor? do you use the sensor to regulate rpms through the computer?

It isn't a optical sensor these are two AC Tech 1 1/2 hp VFD drives with remote key pads and dynamic brakeing module. The motors are 1 1/2 hp baldor three phase motors. But if you give me time I will come up with a optical encoder for the rpm. I also have a DRO . I want the machine accurate enough before it goes cnc. Does anyone know where to get billet step cone pulleys out there. Right now I am working on a gear motor for the mill column.

I found some good pulleys in an ebay store ("electricmotorsite"). They are not billet, but the finish is excellent and made in canada.

I originaly got some pulleys (Browning) from MSC and the only thing they are good for are paper weights, total garbage.

I found two 6" solid billet aluminium pulleys out of the UK. They were the right price and the shipping was cheep. They will work great on my mill and lathe motors. I am running two AC Tech VFD drives so I don't need step pulleys. I will have to rebore and key them but I have friends to do it for free. The stock pulleys are so heavy it must be a strain on the motors. I turned down the lathe spindle pulley and left two groves. But it is still to heavy. So I am removing one more and just leave one. I should get somewhere near 2500 rpm on the spindle with the 6" pulley.

may i ask where you got the motors and controllers, and how much... i would love to do this to my machine.

The motors came from ebay $135 each. The drives we very expensive because of the electronic brake.$750 for both controllers with brakes. I just finished the spindle housing with bronze bushings and p5 precision bearings. I will start posting pictures soon . The project is moving slow. I have all the parts except a few little things. The spindle gears are now turning perfect no binding at all. The drives came from Marshall Wolf.