Hi Jeff:

It is 1/4" plywood that is sloped down to the front right corner so the coolant will drain. You can download drawings and photos of it at

My Coolant Enclosure (http://liarsrc.com/images/cnc-mill/encosure-base.zip)

I covered the inside with one layer of 6 oz fiberglass and painted it with marine polyurethane.

Lou

Ohhhh......... SLICK! :cheers:

The center support and the outside frame are all level and are supported directly by the bench underneath, but just the sheet in between is sloped!

Great idea!

Thanks!

-Jeff

Guys,

I've been watching this thread develop, wishing Syil had been around a year ago when I first bought my X3 to convert to CNC. I'm too far gone, having already finished all the mechanicals and installed the motors.

All I have left to do, is reassemble the column, head and base. They're complete other than attached to each other, just keeping the mill in manageable chunks to handle on my own, (only just).

I plan on fitting a gas lift to the head, I know there is mixed feeling about the necessity, and I have proven to myself that even with a 425 oz stepper (2:1), running a Xylotex driver, with the stepper in bipolar series, I can comfortably lift the head at about 20 ipm. My concern is should the timing belt snap, I'll have 90 odd pounds back driving the ball screw, and slamming the tool into the table!

I'd like to order a pair of gas struts from Syil, but was hoping someone who's already gotten their mill with the gas struts assembled could confirm the minimum spindle to table distance, stroke of the strut, and maybe a pic of the mounting at each end if it's not asking too much.

I'm not too concerned about maintaining the upper extreme of the travel on the Z, since most of my work would be down the lower end.

Thanks in advance,

Pat

Guys,

I've been watching this thread develop, wishing Syil had been around a year ago when I first bought my X3 to convert to CNC. I'm too far gone, having already finished all the mechanicals and installed the motors.

All I have left to do, is reassemble the column, head and base. They're complete other than attached to each other, just keeping the mill in manageable chunks to handle on my own, (only just).

I plan on fitting a gas lift to the head, I know there is mixed feeling about the necessity, and I have proven to myself that even with a 425 oz stepper (2:1), running a Xylotex driver, with the stepper in bipolar series, I can comfortably lift the head at about 20 ipm. My concern is should the timing belt snap, I'll have 90 odd pounds back driving the ball screw, and slamming the tool into the table!

I'd like to order a pair of gas struts from Syil, but was hoping someone who's already gotten their mill with the gas struts assembled could confirm the minimum spindle to table distance, stroke of the strut, and maybe a pic of the mounting at each end if it's not asking too much.

I'm not too concerned about maintaining the upper extreme of the travel on the Z, since most of my work would be down the lower end.

Thanks in advance,

Pat

right now all our machines and conversion kit will be include gas spring,it is our standard parts.
i have been sent the P.I for you,do your receive it?
any quesitons please lt me konw.tomorrow we will get fiinal test of G-code control spindle,then we will pose some pic and info...
thank your
Syil.

Hi Syil,

Thanks for the reply, but I have not received anything today. My email is patndel@unwired.com.au if it makes it easier.

Would it be possible to buy only single parts? I would be very interested in the speed control also.

Pat

Hi Pat:

To answer your question on the Z travel with the gas spring installed it is as follows.

Measured from the bottom of the red spindle housing when the Z axis is all the way up at the home position it is 14.12" above the surface of the table. When it is all the way down at the limit of the gas spring it is 5.75" away from the table. The prongs of the chuck are approximately 5 3/8" below this. In other words if you had a very small drill bit installed and the tips of the chuck were all the way out it measures about 3/8" of an inch from the bottom of the chuck tips to the top of the table.

With a collet installed there would be more clearance but this should not limit any thing you plan on doing.

After making some adjustments to correct the stepper current levels I can reliably move the Z axis at 65 ipm.

Lou

Thanks Lou,

Thats what I was hoping for, so there's almost 8.5" of travel. As you said, that'll give me an ample working envelope where I need it.

I was considering having several pivot points along where the interface between the actual head and the slide (the pivots will mount on the actual slide) so if need be I could remount the struts to give me the additional low end clearance if need be.

I'll be swapping out the stepper drivers, but I just couldn't wait to see a "live" axis after having the mill sitting lifeless in pieces around the garage for almost a year. They should make a huge difference, along with the struts.

Thanks again ... Pat

I have been folowing this thread and have received a quote from Syil.
Is everyone getting MT-3 tapers? Is there an R8 option?
How are the drivers holding up? I was thinking of getting just the converted machine with no electronics and putting geckos and my own choice of steppers and breakout board. Any comments on this idea?
Cheers all
colin

Hi everyone,
I have followed this thread for quite 3 months, and at the mean time I have oredere a machine at Syil. Now thw machine is on hte boat for NY(US). Any hit what I should do before that machine is here. What do I have to do in order to get the machine out of customs and bringing that home?
Any help will be very appreciated!

I have been folowing this thread and have received a quote from Syil.
Is everyone getting MT-3 tapers? Is there an R8 option?
How are the drivers holding up? I was thinking of getting just the converted machine with no electronics and putting geckos and my own choice of steppers and breakout board. Any comments on this idea?
Cheers all
colin

I would have like better to have a R8 but the only Sieg super X3 they could have at the time I order it was MT-3... so I order it like that.

CrazyRonny

Hi everyone,
I have followed this thread for quite 3 months, and at the mean time I have oredere a machine at Syil. Now thw machine is on hte boat for NY(US). Any hit what I should do before that machine is here. What do I have to do in order to get the machine out of customs and bringing that home?
Any help will be very appreciated!

I receive mine by the sea to... And I choose to pick it up at the port. I don't know if it will be the same in the US than here in Canada. But here I have to found a "brocker" myself or ask the transport company to make all the import paperwork, don't wait until the mill is at the port to do that because it will not take long before they begin to charge you storage fee for each additionnal day your mill will stay in the warehouse.

Goog luck

CrazyRonny

so lou, ronny, are you satified how is the mill so far do you have any nice pic of stuff you did with it that would show the kind of finish you got from it or just to get an idea

Yea,
Show us some pictures or even a vidio clip of the SYIL Super X3 in Action.
I'm very interested in this machine.

Ian,

I love my mill. One small problem I found with the coolant base is the marine polyurethane paint reacts with the coolant I am using . When it stays wet for a long time it starts to bubble up. I should have used epoxy paint. Next time I do some milling I will take a video. Compared to my old X1 with a 1/2" endmill it cuts like butter going through 6061-t6 aluminum. I did a .500 dia circle cut with 1/4" end mill and it is very accurate.

Lou

Beleive it or not.... mine as not move from an inch since the last picture I take when I receive it... it is at the same axact location on my garage floor...

To busy right now but I see the light at the end... I should have more time available soon so I could continue this project.

CrazyRonny
:cheers:

Hi everyone,
I have received the machine yesterday from syil. Looks good but I have some problems to assamble it because there is not any assambly instruction included (there is only minor assembly) some wire hanging with a small PCB connector that I don't know whre to connect in the PCB and the cooling pump assembly is not explained how to do.
any help will be very apriciated.
Thank you

I am finishing the manual for the "Super X3 CNC mill" as we speak. Could you email me some pictures? It would be much easier to determine the wire you are speaking of.

As for the coolant kit. I haven't started on the manual for them. We just got our first kit in as well. Looks to me like there is a part missing. Some type of drain back to the tank is needed, but no hole to place it in. Also, it appears the fitting that screws into the table was not included. These are all issues that will be addressed before we send out the kits with our machines.

From what you are describing. It sounds like the "Emergency Stop" wire. It should just plug into the E-Stop recepticle on the PCB board.

richard@syilamerica.com

Now to find an agent for these in the United Kingdom.....

We are able to service UK customers as well.

I am finishing the manual for the "Super X3 CNC mill" as we speak. Could you email me some pictures? It would be much easier to determine the wire you are speaking of.

As for the coolant kit. I haven't started on the manual for them. We just got our first kit in as well. Looks to me like there is a part missing. Some type of drain back to the tank is needed, but no hole to place it in. Also, it appears the fitting that screws into the table was not included. These are all issues that will be addressed before we send out the kits with our machines.

From what you are describing. It sounds like the "Emergency Stop" wire. It should just plug into the E-Stop recepticle on the PCB board.

richard@syilamerica.com

I would like to have one of this manual... it will help since I have not begin to assemble the mill yet... Cam I have one or buy one even if I have bought the mill from SyiL China directly in the begining?

Thanks

CrazyRonny

I will be needing this manual very shortly. I have bought the mill from SyiL China directly as well and in USA. It certainly took it's sweet time.

We are able to service UK customers as well.

Yes, but I wonder what the total shipping will come to once it has come from China via USA!!! (Including all the various countries taxes/duties.....)
Unless you mean that I order it in the US web site and it is then shipped direct to me from China? (Tried looking at the shipping info on the web site, but there is no information under that heading..)
I think I might have to wait until I can see/buy one already in the UK...,
but this mill+conversion is ticking all the right boxes for me....

Yes, but I wonder what the total shipping will come to once it has come from China via USA!!! (Including all the various countries taxes/duties.....)
Unless you mean that I order it in the US web site and it is then shipped direct to me from China? (Tried looking at the shipping info on the web site, but there is no information under that heading..)
I think I might have to wait until I can see/buy one already in the UK...,
but this mill+conversion is ticking all the right boxes for me....

No No,Becuase our US office can accpet PAYPAL.but in china can not use this payment way.machines can be sent from china directly.
what type spindle your need? or still want to convert your x3 by youself?
Syil china.

Is the US office SyilAmerica (http://www.syilamerica.com/) or SyilUSA (http://members.cox.net/syilusa/_sgg/f10000.htm) ?

Is the US office SyilAmerica (http://www.syilamerica.com/) or SyilUSA (http://members.cox.net/syilusa/_sgg/f10000.htm) ?


Please contact www.syilamerica.com frist,them have machines right now.
Syil

Ronny,

Would love to know how the CNC conversion goes.

AC

Ronny,

Would love to know how the CNC conversion goes.

AC


Hi it's a complete CNC that I bought, not a conversion..... but I have not try it yet... the only thing that I have done so far is to uncrate it when I receive it...to busy with other thing :(

CrazyRonny

Hello everyone,
Is been a while that I received the X3 cnc and I am trying to put that in motion. Whith the help of a fellow from this forum I was able to correct some small wiring mistakes but I am still waiting from Syil America for exlanations on assembling the cooling pump. There is not any instruction how to do that.
A solid state relay was dongeled on the pump I do not know whre that goes.
Is anyone that can help me with that?
Thank you

here are some pictures of the stuff I received from syil for the cooling pump.

Solid state relay?
You mean the capacitor?
It's basically CSIR motor (capacitor start induction run).
What you can do is open the white cover on pump.
Connect capacitor between Z2 and U2W1.
Connect the power from U1 to U2W1 (basically 115v in here). The wires for 115v should be coming out from controller where it is clearly marked as connector on what I call main board. I've just saw this, decided to wire it to main voltage (I have plenty of 115v plugs around as my product uses them and pump just ran fine...) time to wire it up to my mill now since testing is fine.

I got my mill yesterday and there was some slight damage to the crate.

Opened the crate to find that the mill looks undamaged- except for the fourth axis, which I don't understand; there doesn't appear to be any mounting mechanism for it, and there is a spot in the grease on the table suggesting it was mounted but may have broken off in shipping.

Is there some mounting plate or something I'm missing?

The wiring to the fourth axis also looks flimsy, but other than that and my mount ing issue, it looks like a quality product.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf26b3127cce8edcb5571a0800000016108AYtHLdw2cNb
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf26b3127cce8edcb56a9b0500000016108AYtHLdw2cNb
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b6cf26b3127cce8edcb5609b0f00000016108AYtHLdw2cNb

I think I may have been looking at it upside down- the other end appears to have a slot for mounting it, so I guess it must have simply been nocked off the mounts during shipment. With any luck it's not broken or damaged and I can find a couple more brackets for cinching it down.

we use rivet to fix the number 4th axis not move,but it is look like no usefully when it in ship transportation.
we have been use cable to fix the 4th axis for other customers.
any technical questions our US office will support you.thank you.

He is the outstanding Chinese product.

I would like to know how best to fix the fourth axis; it seems like an application where rigidity and stability would be important.

Four of those posts on the table might do it, but two don't look convincing.

I would like to know how best to fix the fourth axis; it seems like an application where rigidity and stability would be important.

Four of those posts on the table might do it, but two don't look convincing.

Please contact our US office to more info.those day have machines arrive.
here it is contact info:
www.syil.com
Sales@syilamerica.com

Syil

When used vertically, if you consider rigdity might be a problem, use a tail stock, it will increase rigidity by an order of magnitude. Alternatively you have you first project, make 2 more clamps for a little bit of improvement.

A combined vertical/horizontal RT is a compromise. It's really a horizontally RT with a flat face on one end to make it possible to use vertically. Because of the relatively narrow width of this face it will never be very ridgid in the vertical position on its own, even with 10 clamps, hence it is common to use a tail stock to give additional support.

Regards
Phil

I would like to know how best to fix the fourth axis; it seems like an application where rigidity and stability would be important.

Four of those posts on the table might do it, but two don't look convincing.

Downward pressure causes the part to defect if it extends too far from the chuck. It also depends on your diameter of the part. The clamps provided should be very adequate for most work.

If you need a tail stock, I have them.

Hello jinu117,
Can you please show some pics of how did you connect your cooling system?
Thank you

Solid state relay?
You mean the capacitor?
It's basically CSIR motor (capacitor start induction run).
What you can do is open the white cover on pump.
Connect capacitor between Z2 and U2W1.
Connect the power from U1 to U2W1 (basically 115v in here). The wires for 115v should be coming out from controller where it is clearly marked as connector on what I call main board. I've just saw this, decided to wire it to main voltage (I have plenty of 115v plugs around as my product uses them and pump just ran fine...) time to wire it up to my mill now since testing is fine.

Hello Albatros,
I didn't quite finish up wiring till today, and decided to finish it up since someone was asking ehehe... :)
Here is some pics.
First of all flood coolant control from Syil SX3 is nothing more than a relay control. On/Off switch so wiring can be quite easily done.
Now, you will need a cord with plug that attaches to power outlet handy.
Cord will have 3 different colors:
Either: green/blue/brown or green/white/black/
Green is the ground plug, blue/white is common, brown/black are the live from main AC.
Now that is settled here are few things to lay base on. Capacitor (the black box) has no polarity per say.
So... Looking at 2nd picture capacitor will go to right 2 prongs, i prefer live wire to be controlled by realy so live wire from main will go to CNC relay and than come back out. and go to left bottom of prong which is relay device for motor of pump itself.
Common from main will go to one of capacitor prong (top right) on picture.
Ground will be wired to ground of the relay box of pump which is top left.
I put conduits as well as some heatshrink for wrapping things up as this is high voltage (well not as high as some) we are dealing with potential of high amperage as well with water around. Once all done, test it dry and close the box up :)
NEVER EVER open the box once it has had power until you are sure capacitor is drained as capacitor can hold charge for some time :)
Enjoy.

PS) I finally looked at the hose and you probably will need one 1/2 barb to 3/8 barb for pump to the spray unit converter. Also, 1/2" ID tubing is very nice but the 3/8 one is as stiff as the one you would get home depot and not sure how it will last with chemcial over time. McMaster.com do carry some nice tubing I use a lot for other uses which are very flexible while sturdy and chemically resistant :)

Well, more on to basic mill question this time :)

I have MT3 collet set instead of R8 I was hoping to get. Now, I noticed the drawbar seems to be 7/16-14TPI??? (I browsed around and most seems to be 7/16-20TPI).... what can I do?...
And I presume I only need drawbar and R-8 Arbor? Anyone know where to get diff drawbars?

Well, more on to basic mill question this time :)

I have MT3 collet set instead of R8 I was hoping to get. Now, I noticed the drawbar seems to be 7/16-14TPI??? (I browsed around and most seems to be 7/16-20TPI).... what can I do?...
And I presume I only need drawbar and R-8 Arbor? Anyone know where to get diff drawbars?
Hey jinu, nice to see you here. R8 and morse taper are entirely different, you'd need to get a different spindle to use R8 tools, or make a special adapter. the trouble with that is the large end diameter of Morse#3 taper is 0.938, and the small end (staight bearing part) of an R8 collet is 0.950, so in order to make an adapter it has to hang down the full length of an R8 + 1/2" or so, totally wrecking z axis clearance on your small mill.

I think you'd be best off either getting the correct R8 spindle, or getting that one reground with R8 taper (expensive I'd think).

Draw bar is a piece of cake, a drawbar for a Bridgeport R8 head is just a long bar with a cross pin pressed into the nut, so buy one of those for $20, cut it off to the right length, drill a new hole for the pin, press it in and stake it a little bit.

Climatepro (DetroitAC @XS)

Some of the first delivered X3 machines require a small washer or spacer between the draw bar and collet holder. On all the units we deliver with collets sets have the spacer. However, almost all machines coming in are R8.

For those customers who got a MT3 spindle: To change the spindle from MT3 to R8 is not hard, or expensive. I am getting in some spindles for people who wish to change theirs out.

Good morning Ronny,
You have just solved all my problems. I have noticed this letter several times and just stopped to read it.
Note: I am a truss manufacturer and normal hours are 12 a day, 6 days a week.
I have spent many hours the last two years working at converting my Harbor Freight mill (the same mill, different label) to CNC using Ron Steele's conversion kit and just haven't had the time. I will be contacting Syil today to get mine on the way and use the parts for the other one on my lathe.

Again, thank you
Rich

Conversion kits still have their place, they are fun for those of us who like projects. They are a project though. If your motivation is to save money.... I have bad news for you. It doesn't. Buying a machine ready to go, is by far the most cost effective.

From my years of experience what SyilAmerica says is true in most of things. Things I build someone can build as well while spending whole lot more money or not at same quality... :) For example, you could by very nice Dell with similar components as what you can brew up in home. It will be fun, it might have some advantage as high end dell, but bottom line will be, it will cost you more :) Of course, there are few people who has all the tools and knowledge to make it cheaper than buying preassembled unit, but that's usually far and between :)
And for someone noob like me... man... the support I am getting from SyilAmerica is just priceless right now...

Good morning Ronny,
You have just solved all my problems. I have noticed this letter several times and just stopped to read it.
Note: I am a truss manufacturer and normal hours are 12 a day, 6 days a week.
I have spent many hours the last two years working at converting my Harbor Freight mill (the same mill, different label) to CNC using Ron Steele's conversion kit and just haven't had the time. I will be contacting Syil today to get mine on the way and use the parts for the other one on my lathe.

Again, thank you
Rich

I'm gald to help :)

I was in the same situation and don't have time time to convert my manual mill... imagine, a couple of month as pass since I received my mill and I could not find anough time to put it together to try it... so building one right now ;)

CRazyRonny

I am making Lou's coolant enclosure for a SX3 and will set it on a heavy duty bench but I would like to know what is the optimum height for the milling table to set at? I know it is probably a dumb question and doesn't really matter for a CNC mill but I am brand new at this want to get the bench height right before the mill is put on it. I am 5' 11".

I am making Lou's coolant enclosure for a SX3 and will set it on a heavy duty bench but I would like to know what is the optimum height for the milling table to set at? I know it is probably a dumb question and doesn't really matter for a CNC mill but I am brand new at this want to get the bench height right before the mill is put on it. I am 5' 11".


I made mine at 36" height... now I am regretting it a little. (I am 6ft tall btw).
I think more in line of 30" would have been pefect for me. But it's already done and I have no intention of changing it ;)

I am finishing the manual for the "Super X3 CNC mill" as we speak. Could you email me some pictures? It would be much easier to determine the wire you are speaking of.

As for the coolant kit. I haven't started on the manual for them. We just got our first kit in as well. Looks to me like there is a part missing. Some type of drain back to the tank is needed, but no hole to place it in. Also, it appears the fitting that screws into the table was not included. These are all issues that will be addressed before we send out the kits with our machines.

From what you are describing. It sounds like the "Emergency Stop" wire. It should just plug into the E-Stop recepticle on the PCB board.

richard@syilamerica.com


Is the manual for the "Super X3 CNC mill" is available? Can I have one even if I bought one of the first super X3... if not the first... from SyiL China.

I want to begin to work on it during my Holiday vacation... it's about time ;)

CrazyRonny

Thanks for your email Richard :)

Found the documentation that is done on your web site:
http://www.syilamerica.com/support.asp

It will be usefull

CrazyRonny :cheers:

Hi Ronny

I am in Ottawa, thinking of getting the X3, what is your recomendation?. I was going to make patterns for sand castings (www.yofidesign.com (http://www.yofidesign.com) you can see my products) - I am trying to understand the accuracy for required for surfacing my patterns and getting the detail I require, its hard to know how well a machine will do based on the posted specs, I was concerned about the rolled ball screws - do you have any sample parts that you could post?

P.S. How much did shipping cost you?

Thanks

Hi MAF, Ronny might not be able to answer as he has not installed it yet and he bought it from china.

We on the other hand have it working... in Montreal area. And we still need to make adjustments to it, backlash, timing, etc etc...

shipping from them in the usa is about 600$ plus taxes and duties when it gets here...

Scy

Thanks for the information, I talked to the main guy at Syil America, seems like a good guy and working real hard to get more documentation on the product out there. The price is certainly good, very tempting.


I am also thinking about the Tormach model as well, its about twice the price....so it does have some upgrades, hard to know if i need them.

I made mine at 36" height... now I am regretting it a little. (I am 6ft tall btw).
I think more in line of 30" would have been pefect for me. But it's already done and I have no intention of changing it ;)

Well the bench I am using is at 33 so I think I will just leave it at that.




Do any of you think it's OK to lift the mill by putting a sling around the spindle box where it mates up to the column, or is that hard on the equipment?

I don't think you would harm it, however, you will have to lift it really high to clear the 33".

The easiest is 4 strong guys. If you don't have that, I'd:

Have a (trusted) friend tilt it to the side enough to install the feet.
Repeat for the other side.
Use some straps around the base and lift it from there.

I don't think you would harm it, however, you will have to lift it really high to clear the 33".

The easiest is 4 strong guys. If you don't have that, I'd:

Have a (trusted) friend tilt it to the side enough to install the feet.
Repeat for the other side.
Use some straps around the base and lift it from there.

I will try to figure out a way not to lift it by the spindle case. I am somewhat on my own in moving it and that seemed the most stable.

Hi MAF, Ronny might not be able to answer as he has not installed it yet and he bought it from china.

We on the other hand have it working... in Montreal area. And we still need to make adjustments to it, backlash, timing, etc etc...

shipping from them in the usa is about 600$ plus taxes and duties when it gets here...

Scy


I will know where to go to have some help ;-)

:cheers:

Ronny, tu sais très bien que ca va me faire énormément plaisir !! Nous sommes à Terrebonne, donc pas trop loin de chez toi je crois ;).

De plus, notre machine fonctionne quand meme tres tres bien présentement... !!

David

PS j'ai hate de te rencontrer à la track ;)

Hi...I have purchase a new 4-Axis Super X3 by Syil China... I hope I get no problemo with it...:-)

Hi...I have purchase a new 4-Axis Super X3 by Syil China... I hope I get no problemo with it...:-)

we will do our best to make good products for you.thank you~

Hello Syil China and US,
Have you sold any to the Scandinavian countries or Northern Europe?
Where is the best place to order for me, China directly?

Happy new year, and best regards

Lars

Hello Syil China and US,
Have you sold any to the Scandinavian countries or Northern Europe?
Where is the best place to order for me, China directly?

Happy new year, and best regards

Lars


We sell to the finland,and we have a distirbutor in finland www.syil.fi but those day they do not have stock.
right now we just serach a Scandinavian distributor.you can place machine from us directly.
thank you
Syil china

Thanks for Mr Ronny and Mr Lou Support.we will make best for your.we will also post some X2,X1,CNC set soonly.

also,we will update some CNC working Video for you,but it is so big hardly to post on the web... (chair)

by the way,we will upload to our web of video soonly.then every one can download at www.syil.cn

Hi England calling
I am glad to read that the super x3 cnc is at last getting through to you u guys over there- I am watching syil as they have promised to get the x3 sent to England in the near fiture.
Reading some of the replies I am reading about the four axis optional but have not heard or read about it in any of the promotional stuff from syil.
please let us in on the secret

So I had a major breakthrough.

I just got back from a school with the Army and I had scheduled for my electrical guy to come out ASAP. So he was out Tuesday, and we installed the new transformer on the existing board, and it worked.

The machine runs, but the X and Y movement are flipped. The spindle comes on with G-Code commands, but the RPM isn't in synch with the tach on the case. The coolant isn't working, but I think it's hooked up properly, so maybe that's a program fix too?

I put a digital indicator on the XY andZ and fine tuned the motor tuning and it tracks within .0005 in .7". Backlash was X .001" Y .002" and z .009". It turned out that 998steps per inch seemed to make A360 turn the 4th axis 360 degrees, and .25 of backlash brought it within about .003" of runout at two inches, which is fine by me.

once it's zeroed it likes to go around to 360 and then come back to 10, instead of going straight over to 10. I think that's Mach not understanding that the axis is a rotary table.

anyway Mr Green0,your machine run...
have a good time with it,any questions let us konw.
Xushuo
Syil China

I too have orderd and sx3 mill with 4th axis in r8 from syil uk. I was informed of the speed controller relay and digital hight gauge problems by hugh, and found my self paying in full, exspecting delivery about 5th december. I am very very excited and cannot wait. reading any and all postings on cnczone relating to these problems. I thank every one for the bulk of information posted on this site to speed up and over come these problems asap. I still think it is a brilliant machine, value for money and syil honest and help full (hugh of Syil uk). I feel well informed enough to be up and running by crimbo.
thank you every one.

Wow, that's the same indexer I bought to convert to a 4th axis, exactly. I skipped the worm drive and went with direct for zero backlash. I would love to know how they set hard zero on the unit, I am working on this, but a floating zero is ok if the part isn't too complicated. Hey Ronny, is that collet chuck setup a taper or a straight shank? Diameter ?

Hi Ronnie,
I hope you have better luck with your conversion than I did. I purchased the Sieg X3 from Sieg in Shanghai and then purchased the conversion kit of ball screws, brackets, limit switches and stuff from Syil, via their Australian agent.
It all went together well and the accuracy of the adaption parts was good. But most of the opto limit switches didn't work when installed and the two that did, failed within about two or three weeks.
A side note here. As the limit switches are optical they need power to operate them. So if you have had a problem with any area of the limit switch circuits, you will not have it at all. To get around this hiccup I've replaced all the Syil limit switches with sub-micro switches and have all six of them (in X, Y & X axes) connected up in series and the switches in Normally Closed. This way if I trip a switch or cut the wiring the same result is that the machine stops as this circuit is all now in series with the E-stop button, again a NC switch.
The second problem occurred the other evening when, after about 20 hours of use, a ball in the Z axis ball nut cracked and the chip jammed the screw in the nut.
You all know the rest of the story, the axis lost steps and destroyed the part I was making in the 10 seconds it took me to hit the E-stop.
The Z screw has gone in the bin to be replaced by a complete new screw and nut assembley.
As soon as I have a few more pennies in the plastic pig, I am starting to think that it might be smart to replace the X & Y axes screws to be sure. What do other list members think??

Russell Dunn
temporarily in AnShan, PR China.
but usually at
Perth, Western Australia.

Some parallel ports require more current to pull them low than the opto can supply. I never had this problem on HP Vectra all on Mother Board port, but when I changed to a faster PC the referencing was no longer accurate.
It turns out that the opto on current is not sufficient to reliably pull the port pin low, not because of the 2.2K pullup on the BOB, but because of the port on the PC.
I overcame this problem by putting an emitter follower BC177 PNP transistors between the BOB and the PC on the limit switch pins.

Collector goes to ground, base goes to the BOB (the pin which connects directly to the opto) and the emitter goes to the PC.

No extra resistors or any other parts are need for each switch.
MY referencing became very accurate again.

I mounted them in a short 'dongle' between the BOB socket and the cable.
The E-S signal has the same problem, and is a little unreliable at power-up, but I have not fixed this yet. Turning on fluoro light sometimes triggers E-S and I am certain that another transistor will fix this too.