I've just laid down some cash for a Porter Cable 892, which is on its way to me in the UK (we can't get fixed based routers over here).

I was planning to use a UK building site transformer (110Vac, 50Hz), and from the information I have it should be possible to wire everything correctly and safely.

However, Porter Cable tell me that I can't run the motor at 50Hz as it'll burn it out. Some electrically minded colleagues tell me that they think it'll probably be OK, and that PC are just 'covering their *rses'.

Anyone had any experience of using US tools in the UK, especially PC routers?

I've been using Porter Cables for years in the UK via the transformer you mention - no problems so far after hundreds of hours of use (touch wood)

Great news. Many thanks!

Anyone had any experience of using US tools in the UK, especially PC routers?

Dear sploo,

I found these people who deal with Porter Cable...

http://www.maxtool.co.uk/index/porter-cable/routers.asp

From looking at their website, I think that they imply that the 892 model is good for 60Hz only, whereas some of the other models are good for 25 to 60 Hz. Try giving them a ring.

Regards

Martin

For what i have seen, it will have less power and rpm . It may over heat so as long as you watch the heat should be ok.

If this is for production you could look into buying a 120/60 generator or maybe (you will have to look into it some more), a 110/50 then turning up the rpm.

Or get a VFD and just lock the output at 60 hz.

Martin - I found Maxtool a while ago, and asked them about use of the tool in the UK. No reply.

Plus the actual cost of getting hold of one via them was somewhat high.

sendkeys/Geof - I'm hoping that it should just work OK. It's destined for a CNC router (eventually). Can't say I've seen a 60Hz generator (and don't know anything about VFD's).

I suspect that anything fancy that can provide sufficient wattage would be pretty expensive.

Ah well, hopefully I'll get hold of it in the next couple of weeks and give it a go. I'll let people know the result!

...a variable frequency drive would be a good way to go, It would be worth talking to someone who sells them and can spec what you need. Get one, play with it, use it and you have learnt a new trick :)


Do you know what the consumption (Amps or watts) of your new toy is?

...a variable frequency drive would be a good way to go, It would be worth talking to someone who sells them and can spec what you need. Get one, play with it, use it and you have learnt a new trick :)
I'm always interested in learning new stuff, but it does have to be cost effective. Could you give me an idea of how much these things cost?

Do you know what the consumption (Amps or watts) of your new toy is?
It's rated as 2.25hp. I'd want something capable of delivering 2kW to be certain.

The building site transformer I've been looking at claims to deliver 3kW - for a pretty reasonable cost of 50GBP.

Yes, I know that cost effective feeling :violin:

You are looking at £200, unless you can 'aquire' one from somewhere.

You are looking at £200, unless you can 'aquire' one from somewhere.

That's cheaper than I was expecting, but it's still more than twice the cost of the router.

If that was my only choice, then I guess it'd probably be better to get a powerful UK router, though obviously it'd have to be a plunge unit and I'd have to strip it down to use it as a spindle motor.

On that subject - why is it we can't get fixed base routers here in the UK? Idiot health and safety regs?

Hi. PC folks are probably also worried about the router's speed controller. While in theory it should work at 50Hz, they might know something about their particular setup that we don't. The speed controller is handy not only to set the speed but to maintain it while under load and prevent over driving the motor. While the VFD might be a good solution, those usually cost nearly as much as the router - sometimes more. If the motor overheats and you run out of options, remove or bypass the internal speed controller and use an external one; the type used with universal motors.

JR

Bosch will release a fixed base router in the europen market soon. It is the 230V version of 1617EVS, called GMF1400CE Professional and will cost 400€ (complete set with both bases).
I am wondering whether it will be possible to buy the motor alone as a replacement part....

Regarding stripping a plunge unit.. i have not seen any ways of mounting one that i liked... how would you do it?

If the motor overheats and you run out of options, remove or bypass the internal speed controller and use an external one; the type used with universal motors.

That sounds like a decent idea - as long as I could pick up an external speed control for a sensible price. Thanks!


will cost 400€ (complete set with both bases).
I am wondering whether it will be possible to buy the motor alone as a replacement part....

We really do get boned over here when it comes to tool costs don't we. My experience of replacement parts is that companies usually charge a serious premium for bits.

Having said that, I've always found the high-end Bosch gear to be superb.


Regarding stripping a plunge unit.. i have not seen any ways of mounting one that i liked... how would you do it?

That is a major concern. I sometimes wonder if companies make all these strange shaped router bodies specifically to stop you mounting them. It woud surely be much easier for them (and better for us) if they sold simple cylindrical units.

Hello,

The Porter Cable is a DC motor (it has brushes), it is irrelevant what frequency you run it at. Running from an invertor will cause problems as the speed control is a thyristor type and designed for 50/60Hz, the invertor modulates at about 15kHz. We have run Porter cables here at 50Hz for years with no problems.

Greg

I have the US PC catalog in front of me showing the 892 router to be 2 1/4 HP 12 amp motor with a fixed base .

At the bottom of the page under accessories it shows a motor PN 8902 2 1/4 HP with no fixed base.As far as I can see the 892 without the base .

The catalog is the "2004-2005 product catalog" the number on the last page is PCB0480 hope this helps....mjh

Sploo,

just to elaborate further on my earlier post; When i said I'd been using them for years with no problems I'm talking about a commercial operation that runs them for up to eight hours a day. I'm currently using a US spec hitachi in my CNC that has been known to be cutting for ten (yes ten) hours in a single day.

IMO you won't have a problem.

Firstly, apologies for the lag in response; I've been out of the country for few days.

greg - That's positive news, many thanks (I don't plan to use an invertor).

mike - The cat numbers could come in handy, cheers.

xlr8tr - That is very good to know. I won't be running for anything as long as that (just a hobby, so a few hours per day max). BTW What sort of dust extraction do you use?

With luck, the router might just have found its way to my office in my absence, but it'll be few days before I'll get the relevant plugs to test it.

Firstly, apologies for the lag in response; I've been out of the country for few days.

greg - That's positive news, many thanks (I don't plan to use an invertor).

mike - The cat numbers could come in handy, cheers.

xlr8tr - That is very good to know. I won't be running for anything as long as that (just a hobby, so a few hours per day max). BTW What sort of dust extraction do you use?

With luck, the router might just have found its way to my office in my absence, but it'll be few days before I'll get the relevant plugs to test it.

You mean you have been out of blighty what a blighter you are.

You mean you have been out of blighty what a blighter you are.

*LOL* Only as far as Ireland, but well worth the trip.

My router has arrived! :wee:

I'll let you all know if it's happy with 50Hz as soon as I can get the bits to power it.

OK, finally, I've gotten all the bits I need and now have the router running!

I bought a 110v UK building site plug, and a US two pin mains plug socket. I wired the two pins on the US socket to the two thinner pins on the building site plug. The tool itself is doubly insulated and doesn't require an earth/ground connection. It doesn't matter which way round the pins are wired, as the plug on the router can be inserted either way up (as it only has two, identical, pins).

I've had the router and lead professionally tested, and the wiring configuration has been confirmed as safe.

The parts I bought are:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A331853&ts=81430&id=19947
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1476&criteria=usa%20plug&doy=20m4

The attached picture shows the lead; the router plugs into one end, and the other goes into a building site transformer.

I got a 3.3kVA (30amp) unit, also from Screwfix, and I've confirmed with the manufacturer that it should be capable of delivering enough constant current without tripping out (these transformers will usually only supply half their rated current under continuous load).

I've run the router for several minutes (not under load) and used it for some cuts under moderate load. So far it seems to be fine, but I'll report back if I do have problems.

As for the router itself - all I can is that you US guys have it good! The build quality and ergonomics of the PC 892 are excellent, and for the price I really can't find any fault. I've no idea why they don't sell them in the UK, as anything even slightly competitive is at least twice the US price. If it hadn't been a bit of a faff to get it here, I'd buy another one to use in my router table (as this one is of course destined for a CNC machine).

Well, hope that's of use to someone in the UK!