Ok, I have a budget and it'll only stretch to ONE machine.

What do I buy? A router or a dremel-type tool? Any other ideas?

I'd want to be able to do PCBs as well as wood (for redesigning and reworking my machine). Working with aluminium is similar to wood so I guess the same machine would cover both?

Is 1000W enough? Variable speed is a must I guess?


If the answer is "router" then what bits can be used with routers? Are they specific to routers?

Personally I'd go with a variable speed router and not cut too tight on the budget corner. If you plan to ever do any heavy cutting at all the larger spindle and bearings of the router will be a big plus. Paying a bit more to get one with collet capacity larger than the 1/4" on the cheapies will also help by making possible use of larger tooling such as fly cutters.



Tiger

I was thinking of going for the best machine my budget would stretch to so I don't have to buy a new one a few months down then line when it starts showing its weaknesses. So that's why only one is an option. I'd rather have one proper machine than two cheapies.

Dremel's are absolutely not the way to go. They are weak, and have lots of play and run-out in the spindle shaft.
Probably the best way to go is the RotoZip by Bosch. They have a variable speed model, and the quality of the new Bosch ones is very good indeed.
It sounds like you are going for a smallish router, so the larger 1/2" collet machines would be too big and heavy for your application anyway.
There are any number of bits you can use in your router. The most common one you will likely use on wood is a 1/4" spiral up-cutting router bit, also known as an endmill. The upwards spiral draws the cut chips up and out of the cut preventing clogging of your bit and burning of the material you are cutting.
For your PCB's, you will likely go with a smaller diameter tool, 1/8" or even 1/16" and smaller of course for drilling the holes.
Colin

I wonder if my machine will handle a router with a 1/2" spindle ? Hopefully!
Those new Bosch Cobas ( 1 hp trimrouter) look pretty cool.

Ok I bought a router. It has 6 and 8mm collets. And I think when the time comes to have something thicker than 8mm it shouldn't be a big problem to make new collets or even fit a drill chuck to it.

I wonder if my machine will handle a router with a 1/2" spindle ? Hopefully!
Those new Bosch Cobas ( 1 hp trimrouter) look pretty cool.

You mean the Colt?

yeah that's it, the Colt.

When i designed my router, I decided to use a Makita Die Grinder #906H, 30,000 RPM dual bearing spindle, easy to repair, made from solit cast aluminum, not plastic! But most of all is was very slender, at 2.8" diameter!

I took the spindle nose casting off and used my lathe to turn it round, to make it easier to clamp on to!

The spindle has a maximum of 1/4" dimeter collet, but I made a reducer for 3/16" and 1/8" shank endmills and bits!

Dremel's are really nice, and not as noisy as my die grinder, but the ergonomic handle designs are impossible to clamp on to!

In my opinion!
Eric

A cartridge spindle...

Just bought the COlt, it bolts up fine to the carriage and its' got a variable speed. I guess I am limiting myself to 1/4 inch shafts and reducers but since my machine isn't all that fast anyway I don't think I'll be spinning many big bits.

The best inexpensive spindle I've found is the er16 spindle made by Sherline. I bought two and both had less than .0005 runout 1/2" from the collet end. Certainly these are not for hard work but if you have enough time and are looking strictly for precision, it can't be beat for the price. Cheap speed would be a mini mill head from littlemachineshop.com with some work. Never a dremel.

Does the er16 spndel do well with router bits? I'm cutting wood almost exclusively and that usually requires a higher rpm due to the bit geometry.

Slow would be the keyword. You would have to lessen the preload and the precision a little, but up to a 3/8" shaft router bits could be used at 10k. I think the pcb's would look tighter with the er16 and precision cutting of aluminum would be best served with the Sherline.

Other than my DW610 router (all metal) I would like to try the Kress 900 watt. It seems to be quite popular in Europe but is hard to find in the USA.

Jason

I am completely new to the subject and this forum so please excuse the naivety.
What i have in mind is a CNC router to produce complex shapes such as [cabriol legs, leaf patterns etc]in say 1 1/2 material [wood].

As tolerances in wood are relatively course, 1/16" is generally acceptable could the basic machine structure be made from seasoned wood ?

I have read a couple,one actually, articles on programming which essentially referred to operation in in linear axis modes .For complex shapes would it be required to build a pattern and run a stylus on the pattern and somehow introduce this to the computer so that it can replicate the pattern to the cutterheads at a later time .Or does the stylus follow the patern and the cutterhead run on a real time basis .

I realize you guys are for the most part whizzes at this stuff and I understand if these questions are probably basic to you .That being the case please offer a suitable text that an utter novice could get answers to these basic problems .

I am a custom woodworker and basically long in the tooth most of the linear stuff I can easily do with the complex forms the first one is interesting by the time you get to the twelth you start wishing for a bloody earthquake or such.......

I have read a couple,one actually, articles on programming which essentially referred to operation in in linear axis modes .For complex shapes would it be required to build a pattern and run a stylus on the pattern and somehow introduce this to the computer so that it can replicate the pattern to the cutterheads at a later time .Or does the stylus follow the patern and the cutterhead run on a real time basis .


Mike, there are a couple ways to go about it. The way you mention, you use a probe in the machine. The machine basically probes your pattern, in a grid that you specify, and records the coordinates of you pattern. You then use a CAD or CAM program to turn that coordinate data (called a point cloud) into a 3D model. Then use a CAM program to generate toolpaths for the 3D model. Probing can take a very long time.

The other way is to just create the model in a CAD program, and let the CAM program create the toolpaths from that model. This way no pattern is needed, but you'll may need good CAD skills, depending on how complex the part is.

PS. if you have a question with a different topic, please start a new thread in the appropriate forum. Thanks. :)

Proxon is good for small works, that's the one I use, but it takes only small bits (0.3 to 3 mm). Should be ok for PCB, but I have not tried yet. It can do nice with MDF up to 8mm thick and may be more. It work slowly in plexiglass. I broke a bit in aluminium because of a bad G code. Didn't tried another before I get more experienced.
I plan to upgrade for the Kress, witch is nice on its own and should to a great job even in hard wood. It takes 6mm, 8mm or 1/4 inch, other diameter could be find in gearmany.

D. BOEGNER

P.S. Excuse me for my poor english!

[FONT= Comic Sans MS]I would like to use my existingto cut makita 3HP router using 1/2" bits to cut the basic shape after which to get the more tight corners a small bit would be necessary .

Basically I would like the machine to produce a small batch [say 20 items] repetative blank ready for hand carving. The more detail the better . I could run the small bits using the dremel but personally have always considered it as a toy, if I was going to use something of that ilk I would probably use a laminate trimmer with a 1/4" shank capability .

My current project is a highly carved wooden chandelier with 20 arms .The initial hogging would be with the arms laying flat . If anything more was done it would most likely require the arms to be rotated first 90 degrees ,then at 180 degrees to do the initial carving cuts.

I haven't even thought about automating the basic shaft as most wood lathes do not have the adjustable controls that engine laths have .

hi Didier, The harder the material you are milling the more torque is required. so either the feed rate or the depth of cut has to be reduced.Keeping the feed rate and the depth of cut is going to result in high lateral loads on the bit which can cause it to break.

So, an easy setup is to use Sherline's Industrial Product's cartridge spindle for under $200.

Hi all

Im in the very early stages of desigining my gantry mill but I have just purchased the Proxxon BFW 40 ready to mount onto my mill when its finished, comes with 2.35,3.0,3.2,4.0,5.0,and 6.0 mm collets vairable speed 900 to 6000 rpm. The build quality is excellent and it runs extremly quiet.

Did anyone test your runout on any router/die grinder/dremel? widgitmaster did you test on the die grinder? or audioandy1762 did you test the Proxxon?

Anyone cut aluminum with a router/die grinder(other?) with a small endmill 1/16+- ?

Hi Sendkeys

I hav'nt tested the Proxxon yet as I hav'nt finished my mill, I have seen the Proxxon being used by another CNCzone member and asked him how it performed but I am still waiting a reply.The attached picture is of a keyring which was engraved using the Proxxon.

Thank you audioandy1762 that looks really good :)

Has anyone tryed to cut say 10%step .03 doc with a 1/16 endmill? (in aluminum)

Hi Sendkeys

We supply a Mini Grinder as a cheap starter with our desktop machine and it is surprising what these little things can be hammered through.
Check our site for examples cut with this little wonder.
http://www.cncdudez.com

For engraving and cutting thin plastics, wood and sheet aluminium they are up to the job.
But when you get onto deeper cuts and block aluminium or need the speed then we recomnend upgrading to a more powerfull Router such as the Kress or DeWalt for the torque.

Regards

Sean.




Did anyone test your runout on any router/die grinder/dremel? widgitmaster did you test on the die grinder? or audioandy1762 did you test the Proxxon?

Anyone cut aluminum with a router/die grinder(other?) with a small endmill 1/16+- ?

Hi Sendkeys

I hav'nt tested the Proxxon yet as I hav'nt finished my mill, I have seen the Proxxon being used by another CNCzone member and asked him how it performed but I am still waiting a reply.The attached picture is of a keyring which was engraved using the Proxxon.

I use this spindle also and it works great.
I can cut alluminium 3mm deep with a 6mm carbide endmill with feedrate of
25 mm/min. It probably can cut faster but the noise becomes to loud (I live in an appartmentbuilding so noise is a limiting factor).

The runout is good, < 0.003 mm , measured with a jeweled mitutoyo 0.001 mm dial indicator (for what it's worth).

I also like the big, red button to switch it on or off.

regards,

Jeroen

Would the Proxxon cut plastic without it melting? I need to cut plastic that's anywhere between 1/16-1/8 thick.

I know I need a cutting tool that runs at a lower rpm with an increased feed rate, just not sure what would be good. Plus I'm looking for something that I can use small bits for fine detail. Though I believe all roughters can do that.

I see a lot of people are using a hitachi variable router. I wonder if the hitachi's 8,000 rpms is slow enough for cutting plastic

I have used both Dremel and router for different types of job. For PCB's I use the Dremel for circuit routing and drilling. This works for me, cutting at 300 mm a minute at 8000 rpm, see picture of pcb 4" x2". For the heavier work I use a Kress spindle which for the price is for me the best, it's well engineered and and at 900w does all that I ask of it ( Ali, brass, plastic). I cut plastic at 300mm a minute ( my machine wont go any faster) at 9000 rpm, no sign of melting at 3mm depth of cut. Hope this helps

I like my little dremel for hand held struff, it gets quite a bit of use, but I cant imagine a worse spindle for a CNC machine. No torque, high heat, irregular shape, lots of run-out, limited collet size, etc...

I dont do any PCB work though, I hear alot of people say they like them for that. If you need one option though, I would not use a Dremel. If you really have that tight of a budget, that a full size router cant be used, look at the laminate or trim routers. The Colt should work great.

I milled the side flat on my rotozip then used the thrubolts to hold it to two pieces of plate. The plates bolt on to my Z axis. The Rotozip has made 100's of models successfully. I channel the air to clear chips and offer some coolant action to the workpiece.

It's not a production spindle, but it works for hobby use quite well.

Pros:
Cheap and available:
Can get 1/8" and 1/4" collets

Cons:
Too fast to turn a bigger cutter than 1/4" for most materials.
Too fast and too low a torque to do much iron working.
Can't hold cutters larger that 1/4".
The chuck stinks. Gotta use collets.

Hi -
Sorry to step in on the conversation but - A lot of the DIY plans you see show a dremel or something small like that in the picture. Does anyone have links showing what they recommend that is also very inexpensive?

Thanks

from my personal experience
i've paid around $130 for dremel tool, then bought circular saw attachment for another $30 - don't regret it - bare setup returned in first 1hr of use (i'm into lcd repair/remaking so it was one 19" monitor to do with it to return), circullar saw is the best if you need to cut fiberglass like PCB boards and similiar, even light aluminium alloys
then i bought router attachment to see what it would be capable of when put into cnc machine - results was more than bad - i mean really - smoke shouldn't go out from spindle..
have tryied high speed cutting bits, and ordinal one for wood - quality was poor, even with plain MDF board - maybe i'm too unexperienced to use it properly - don't know

anyway - if you need something pro i would go for kress (800W), bosh ( around 600W) hitacih (also 600W) or makita (520W) straight grinder/edge router
they are 8000-27000RPM and accept 6 and 8mm bits
you can easly buy 1/8" collet for carbon oxide bits typical for pcb making
as for the price - i've seen kress avial from uk store on e-bay for 100 pounds, makita around here costs 100 euro, hitachi and bosh is in range of 70 to 150 euros
if dremel woulnd't pay first day of use i would hang myself on the nearest tree - what can i say - you have to pay for your knowledge
don't take my path, buy proper tool at first place
standard router weights 4-5kg, straight grinder/edge router 1.5kg and has very compact design suitable for mounting it on cnc machine clamps
this should be another point to consider
cheers

I just bought this 1 HP router from grizzly. It is tall but only abour 3" in diamter at its widest. It also has a speed control. Only downside is that the on/off is momemtary, so you need to Have a way to hold the switch down. You can see a pic of my prototype holding it at www.bigbearcnc.com Also, anyone interested in buying my prototype can contact me at bigbearcnc@yahoo.com

I milled the side flat on my rotozip then used the thrubolts to hold it to two pieces of plate. The plates bolt on to my Z axis. The Rotozip has made 100's of models successfully. I channel the air to clear chips and offer some coolant action to the workpiece.

It's not a production spindle, but it works for hobby use quite well.

Pros:
Cheap and available:
Can get 1/8" and 1/4" collets

Cons:
Too fast to turn a bigger cutter than 1/4" for most materials.
Too fast and too low a torque to do much iron working.
Can't hold cutters larger that 1/4".
The chuck stinks. Gotta use collets.


Would you be able to post a closeup of the rotozip mount? I'm working on my Z-Axis and trying to figure out a good way to clamp my rotozip too!

I'll take a few shots as soon as time permits.

I just lined up the RZ in my machinist's (Kurt) vice, using the lines that are formed at the junction of the plastic housing halves. Then I used a fat milling cutter and cut down until the wire coming from the brush housing could just be seen.

I then turned the RZ flat side down.

Removed the 4 screws that hold the case together and used a transfer punch to mark the two mounting plates.

I drilled and tapped the plates (6-32 or maybe 8-32) and used long screws to hold the whole thing together.

I might have had to drill the RZ case holes to clear the new screws - I don't recall.


Barry

http://www.barryfish.com

Is there any other brushless type spindles in the market ? I m using AEG 500 watts router . it is very compact and good looking and the mounting neck is cast aluminium. it is variable speed as well . I use it professionally night and day so that the brushes run out within 2 months .Can I use brushless motors designed for RC planes as a router ?

Rceebuilder

This is CNC Zone !

If you can make it fit, drive it electrically, keep it cool and mount it firmly and squarely, then why not?

Some of the brushless RC motors are excellent.

They are also a way to get a very high speed.

They only problem that you will have is the bearings probably will not last. Your router bearings are probably bigger, suitable for higher loads and have a lot of air flowing over them to keep them cool.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

regards,
Barry

Luckily I found a guy on ebay doing the same thing . please check

http://cgi.ebay.com/TB-7070BL-High-Speed-CNC-Brushless-Spindle-Router_W0QQitemZ170026999850QQihZ007QQcategoryZ87080QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

Rceebuilder

yea thats a spiffy setup, but WOW what a price!

I would not mind knowing what motor that guy is actually putting into that setup as that company (i've done a little electric air craft flying in my time) makes some super expencive ones and some lower priced motors. So he could have 100 or 200 bucks into that motor alone.

I contacted him a while ago but didn't have the nerve at the time (since I'd rather have my mini 12x12 from widg first) to ask him details on the motor.. He said the spindle is the same as his other models. So the increased cost is tied up in that brushelss it's controller and the powersupply he gives ya.. So figure his high end brushed is 175ish figure he has to have 400some tied into the brushless / controller and powersupply.. I have a hard time believing I could not make those 3 pieces of the makeup for less then 400..

b.

i was wondering if any of you had thought about the rigid brand trimmer from home depot... lemme know what yall think, or is it just too cheap,
and i should i go for something more like a PC or a Dewalt?
RIDGID
RIDGID 120V 6.0AMP LAMINATE TRIMMER
Model R2400
Price: $99.97/ea
sorry i tried to post a link and it just came out all gobbeldy-gook....

I've never looked at it, with regards to using it as a spindle.

As a rule, Ridgid is a very decent brand. I have quite a few of their stationary power tools, and have been thrilled with their quality.

There's nothing wrong with going for a name brand like PC...but credit where credit is due. Ridgid makes a lot of good products.

-- Chuck Knight

i have a rigid shop vac, and im very happy with it, thats why im considering going with thier lam trimmer, variable speed, small, easy to mount, and cheaper than a full size unit, so i can get this thing up and running sooner, then once i make a few $$ with it, i can reinvest my profits into a larger spindle... i went and looked at them at HD last night, and was really surprised how small they are...

The best deal I've found for a low cost trimmer, something to get started with, is this thing, made by "Buffalo Tools", I've seen it sold by Harbor Freight, and Grizzley for around $39.99, but I found this one on sale at Kragen Auto, a auto parts store local to Southern California, for $ 9.99.

Yes, these can be found on sale at auto part stores for $ 9.99 occasionally.

i'm currious why this tread keeps showing up like theres new posts, but when i look theres nothing new....

I have a cnc router 1mx2m it has a porter cable router 3H and 6 speeds it cuts al types of wood and MDF from 3mm to 18mm all at 4mm cuts, It will cut Aluminum if the cuter approaches from the side but when it plugs down in to it after two or three times it starts to smoke when I look at the end of the bit theirs is aly stuck to the bottom of it when I take it of it look like a washer I am using 3mm and 6mm doubel tooth cutters with fishtail from www.vhf.de . if I use end mills do they go as small as 3mm

Ok I have read hundreds of threads now - I just cannot decide which way to go ,I want to make guitar necks and bodies - so which dremmel? or router or something else and what bits do I use ?

Ok I have read hundreds of threads now - I just cannot decide which way to go ,I want to make guitar necks and bodies - so which dremmel? or router or something else and what bits do I use ?

Would have to be a router and I would recommend Trend tooling (you get what you pay for imo).

John

well i ended up getting a great deal on a porter cable 892 or something like that... its 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 hp.. should do all i need to do for now.... Thanks to the mother-in-law....

i'm currious why this tread keeps showing up like theres new posts, but when i look theres nothing new....

This thread is a 'poll'. When someone responds to the poll by clicking their vote, without posting a remark, it still shows up as a new post so you can see the updated poll results.

:)

Ok I have read hundreds of threads now - I just cannot decide which way to go ,I want to make guitar necks and bodies - so which dremmel? or router or something else and what bits do I use ?

Your gonna probably do best with a gantry style router, like a K2, Shopbot, Technik, etc...

It will need to have one axis at least 6 in. longer than your guitar necks.

You'l need a heavy duty spindle/router like the Porter Cable fixed based of at least 1-3/4 HP, better yet 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 HP or even a big Columbo or Perske 5HP if you can afford it.

All of these hold 1/4" and 1/2" tools or cutters, start with a straight 2 flute upcut, both 1/4" and 1/2" straight, a couple of the same in round tip style and a couple of V-cutters, a 1/2" and a 1". Also a collet reducer and some small 1/8" straight or round or chamfer tip bits are good to have.

A CNC rotary table ( used upright) and a tailstock for contouring necks. This will require that your hardware controller can support a 4th axis.

A controller S.W. program like Mach3 or TurboCNC or DeskCAM.

A good CAD program with 3D capability, like Rhino or Solidworks.

A CAM program to turn your drawings into toolpaths (G-code).

That should be everything, to get started at least.

Ok I have read hundreds of threads now - I just cannot decide which way to go ,I want to make guitar necks and bodies - so which dremmel? or router or something else and what bits do I use ?

You need a 1/2" variable speed router (Dewalt DW625 is good). You will need (would be better) to use spiral fluted cutters (solid carbide for long life). Oldman history recommends trend cutters, so do I but... I am now using Wealden cutters, almost as good but half the price (I paid £108 fro a 2.5" cut 1/2" dia Trend STC cutter last month, I could have got the Wealden one for about £50).

If you want to cut plastic speed isnt too much of an issue, I cut Plexiglass on a 27000rpm 10hp wadkin router without any melting, just buy cutters for plexiglass, Trend do these. PTFE dry lube on the cutter helps too.

Dear All,

Does anybody have any experiences of these German spindles?

The 1050 watt one looks like a serious bit of kit. If it has a 43 mm mounting collar, the photo suggests something quite beefy.

Here is the link

http://www.i-mes.de/englisch/downloads/ufm500_ufm1050.pdf

Best wishes

Martin

Dear All,

Does anybody have any experiences of these German spindles?

The 1050 watt one looks like a serious bit of kit. If it has a 43 mm mounting collar, the photo suggests something quite beefy.

Here is the link

http://www.i-mes.de/englisch/downloads/ufm500_ufm1050.pdf

Best wishes

Martin

Hi Martin,

That looks to be a very nice unit and not dissimilar to a Kress. I have a Kress 900w spindle and am very impressed with its performance and quality. If this unit is any thing like that you will be more than happy.

Do you have a price?

Regards,

John

Martin,

This is spooky!! I have been trying to find out the make of spindle I have in my small Isel machine, supplied by Unimatic, for quite some time now, I look at your post and there it is. Mine, the 600W one, was bought from Unimatic as a replacement for a Kress 900W, the same one mentioned by John (another strange coincidence!) The Kress gave me good service but the bearings seized up so I had to find a replacement. Fortunately, I did not have to pay for the replacement as Unimatic charged £345 for the unit you have the link for. I don't know what price you have found but in my opinion - go for it. It is a much better motor than the Kress, much, much quieter, beautiful bearings with virtually zero runout. I have been running this one now for nearly twice as long as the Kress and it is still performing as new.

Please let me know if you manage to find a price as I may well consider another of these for my new machine as a stop gap before getting a pucker spindle.

Mike

Edit: I notice they don't do a 600W any more, just a 500W and 1050W. Depending on the price, I would definitely go for the 1050.

Just found the same spindle on the Unimatic site http://www.unimatic.co.uk/education/spindle-motor-1050.asp

No prices though. It would still appear that both these sites are re-sellers and not the manufacturer of the motor - wish we could track down the manufacturer, I'm sure the price would be much keener.

Mike

As my machine is an Isel, I looked on the Isel site and found them again http://www.iselautomation.de/products/category.php?lang=en&ID=c72

Still no prices though.

Mike

I couldn't imagine trying to use a Dremel to work on guitar bodies and necks! Trying to do stock removal would kill the tool and produce lousy results. It can (barely) handle light duty inlay work, but even then I get better results with a laminate trimmer or router.

I have a PC890 in my DIY machine (25x33" work area). I am making guitar parts and my preference is for 1/2" shank bits whenever possible. For inlay work I'm primarily running 1/32" endmills. I do like the K2 extender that takes DA collets for these small bits.

This Dremel vs. router discussion comes up so often - but anyone who has ever tried to do even light duty routing with a Dremel would know that it's the wrong tool for the job. A laminate trimmer or cutout tool is a step up and a full sized router can do everything those do - with more torque, rigidity and accuracy.

Steve

Dear Olmanandhistoy and Mike F,

Sorry for the delay in replying.

As well as isel in Germany, there is a company called i-mes. I have a friend who speaks fluent German, so I'll try and get a price in euros.

Best wishes

Martin

Martin,

Cheers, I appreciate that.

Mike

Martin,

I have just received some prices from Unimatic for the two spindles, UFM 500 and 1050. Unimatic want £240 & £290 respectively plus VAT and £12 delivery. If my maths is correct that makes the totals, with delivery, £294 and £352.75. This still seems a little pricey to me despite it being lower than the price I paid for the 500 some three years ago, which was £345.

Did you also see the other, beefier spindles, on the Isel site? Wonder what the price is on those?

Mike

Dear Mike,

Yes, I knew that the 1050 watt spindle costs £290 +VAT in the UK. I'm interested in the price in Germany. Here's why.... a 1/4" collet for the 1050 watt motor costs £22 from Unimatic, but it costs 15.5 euros in Germany. In other words, it is more than DOUBLE the price in Britain. If the mark-up on the spindle is of the same magnitude, buying in Germany looks awfully attractive.

Best wishes,

Martin

Martin,

I have always suspected that the Unimatic prices were somewhat inflated but, judging from your 'collet' experience, I was not expecting that much :eek:

What is it that someone said about 'rip off Britain'?

If you are right, and the spindles are virtually half price in Germany, I too will take advantage of a friend with property in Germany.

Are you just enquiring about the 1050 or the other, bigger spindles too? I could be very interested in one of the bigger ones for doing some heavier work in aluminium. I have used the 500 on aluminium but you do have to take fairly shallow cuts, anything more than 0.5mm at 10mm/sec proves to be a little too much. Having said that, it is an excellent product, extremely well made and reasonably quiet.

Mike

Martin,



Are you just enquiring about the 1050 or the other, bigger spindles too? I could be very interested in one of the bigger ones for doing some heavier work in aluminium. Mike

Dear Mike,

Sorry for trhe delay. I have been away. If you let me know the stock numbers of the items you are interested in on the www.i-mes.de website, I'll find out prices. My German-speaking pal will phone next week.

Regards

Martin

Martin,

Thanks for responding. I would be interested in prices for the UFM 1050, MAx2.05 and the MAxSK20. The last two may well be out of my price range but it would be nice to know what to save up for :) The last one is capable of supporting automatic tool changing and that is certainly one of my ultimate aims.

Thanks again,

Mike

My two cents:

Definitely a router.

Look at them with an eye to how easy is it to change tools? One wrench with a spindle lock or two wrenches?

Suggest one that accepts and has available both 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets. The 1/2 shanks are more rigid, obviously. Also, you may want to use the router outside of the machine, if you want to run panel raising bits, cope and stick, etc, you will only find those bits in 1/2 shank.

Noise is an issue too, right now I have 6 Porter Cables around here. I heard the Bosch whispering at the woodworkers show last weekend, gonna get me one of those as soon as practical.

I would NOT get a roto zip type tool. My experience with them has been pitiful. First off, no really great way to grip them securely. Secondly, they just feel cheap.

Good Luck!

What a sweet looking machine!
The widgetmaster rocks!

1 set of plans to go, please.

Lots of recomendations. Could I add another criteria.

NOISE!

If you have a super silent spindle, 500w-1000w tell me about it.

That way I could run long long jobs unattended through the night without upseting the locals.

I skipped to the end of this...but did anyone mention the 2 1/4 HP Hitachi M12VC?

Easy to clamp, built in 8-25K speed control, maintains constant torque at low RPMS, and for me, most of all well balanced, quiet, and tight.

I love this router....1/2 and 1/4 collets, $10 adapter allows me to use the smallest of bits with an 1/8" shank.

I milled 3/4" Precision plate T6061 24"x24" for 22 hours straight. No problems.

Davidh,

I used to have a water cooled 750W High frequency Westwind air bearing spindle, 1/8 pnuematic collet, and 125,000 RPM max.

At 75,000 RPM, there was NO vibration, and could not hear it, unless I turned off my room A/C.

I used it for HSM on aluminum. I felt like I had a piece of NASA, I miss it.

I sold it. :(

Martin,

I have just received some prices from Unimatic for the two spindles, UFM 500 and 1050. Unimatic want £240 & £290 respectively plus VAT and £12 delivery. If my maths is correct that makes the totals, with delivery, £294 and £352.75. This still seems a little pricey to me despite it being lower than the price I paid for the 500 some three years ago, which was £345.

Did you also see the other, beefier spindles, on the Isel site? Wonder what the price is on those?

Mike

The UFM 1050 costs 352EUR incl taxes plus shipping from www.cnc-plus.de, that is almost 90£ cheaper than in GB before shipping!

I also purchased the Hatachi M12VC like foam27 and found the same advantages. Bought it from an Ebay store for $75.00 shipped to my door. It's very quiet, vibration free, and powerful.

Well I've used the Proxxon IB/E a few times. Worked good for MDF and PCB milling, though would like a faster spindle to cut PCBs with a feed rate > 800mm/min. Aluminum has been ok at 0.25mm deep of cut using a 3.0mm 2 flute end mill and feedrate of 400mm/min. I did try a 1mm cut, but the motor stalled and the bit snapped. Not that impressed with the power for cutting aluminum.

Unfortunately it gave a loud pop and died tonight. Only had it for a month, and hasn't seen much usage. Opened it up and found a track on the PCB had vapourised. Repaired the track, but not it just trips the circuit breaker. Rather pissed, as this is what I'd expect from a ****ty Dremel. Not something that cost 5 times as much :( Wonder how I'II go with the warranty now... I had to at least try and fix it though, I was suppose to finish something for a customer today. Very disappointing.