I am making a small copper roof, and am going to solder the seams. Is there a good way to clean the flux, heat discoloration, etc. off the copper after soldering?

Use a fine wire wheel on a drill or a Dremel tool, depending on how large of a area you need to clean up.

It's a large area -- the total roof surface is 32 square feet.

Never personally done a copper roof so take this for what its worth; Friend has a new house construction just down the road and has just had a large copper roof put on. This is a standing seam panel installed over ply deck, resin paper and a bitumine (sp?) mop. The panels are not soldered, they need to move to allow for expansion. the panels lock over. They did solder join some areas, round vents, dormer windows etc and I watched them do it. They used a regular chloride/parafin plumbers flux. Also used something called yellow ocre anti-flux which limited the spread. Cleanup was water and vinegar, not sure what the sequence was but the fluxes washed off in water. Vinegar cleaned up the copper and they used a household scrubbing pad to remove the tough heat marks. Loads of water to wash off .. it rained!

Edit: Should add that thats the way the contractor did it. Not that I know thats right or that its the 'right' way or what an inspector would approve! They did manage to set light to the bitumine as well....

If while soldering you run a damp cloth over the "just soldered" seam.....that will wipe most of the flux and other stuff off.

but why bother if it'll all be green in a few months down the line anyway?

If while soldering you run a damp cloth over the "just soldered" seam.....that will wipe most of the flux and other stuff off.

that's so true. I've watched my friend, an ace plumber do it and the pipes look so shiny after he's done with them. lots of flux, lots of heat, apply a little solder, again lots of flux and then damp cloth and it sparkles!

It takes years to get a natural green patina (most places I have seen talk about 15-20 years).

years? I don't know, I've watched a cathedral being re-roofed twice in 10 years and each time it turned green in no time at all.

I also have a pcb which is on its way to "get green" :D

I think moisture plays a big role in this, if you live in a hot climate with dry air then it'll never be green but if you live in a humid area with lots of rain and snow then it'll be green in no time at all.

but as I said earlier, lots of flux, before you apply heat and AFTER you apply solder to the joint and then as viper says damp cloth and it's all shiny and pretty. if you want even more shine then a fine wire wool/brillo pad will take care of it.

I am making a small copper roof, and am going to solder the seams. Is there a good way to clean the flux, heat discoloration, etc. off the copper after soldering?

Denatured Alcohol will remove the flux if it is rosin based solder. Just use a semi-soft bristle brush. Pour on Alcohol and rub. Rosin Core solder is not as messy as acid core. Multi-core solder has a melting point of around 500 degrees F. which causes less discoloration. Works great on new copper. Not familiar with removing acid core flux. Acid core solder residue always causes corrosion on copper, and rosin core does not in my experience.

Heat discloration can be cleaned up with a scotchbrite scouring pad.

Spraying several coats of lacquer will keep the NEW metal look until the lacquer starts to break down. Other coatings may be better suited for this task though.

Hope this helps.

Jerry

If the roof is located in a city that has a lot of pollution (acid rain), that will turn a copper roof green much faster.

If the roof is located in a city that has a lot of pollution (acid rain), that will turn a copper roof green much faster.

:idea:
so pretty much every city? :D