Here are the e-drawings for your review, they have the measure feature in solidworks e-drawing viewer (free) turned on.

By downloading these plans you are agreeing to use them for personal use ONLY! not to be used in any reproduction of the machine or parts other than personal use without my expressed permission.

Thanks, Joe

No,

THANK YOU!!!

Thanks for sharing.

A job well done,

HayTay

Looks great, Joe! Wonderful job! This will get alot of new folks excited about building. I can see alot of new threads coming about the new Joe 2006 cnc design....Again, great work, Joe!!

Its finally complete and it looks great. Congrats Joe.

Jason

Are you missing the u bolts and bearings on the z-aixs? As drawn it would fall off :confused:

Are you missing the u bolts and bearings on the z-aixs? As drawn it would fall off :confused:

Yes i figured it was a given.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks Guys, I hope it will help people out to achieve a good DIY CNC Machine...

Dear Joe,

Many many thanks for all the fantastic information you have posted. I've been following your work in complete awe.

I'm so sorry to trouble you, but can you possibly let me know how to view your drawings? I downloaded the zip file and then extracted the files but I don't know what to do now. Do I need a Solidworks viewer? Any help would be enormously appreciated.

Best wishes

Martin

E-drawing viewer

http://www.solidworks.com/pages/programs/eDrawings/e2_register.html?CFID=26587836&CFTOKEN=28246981

Joe

Joe,

I have just been reading this complete thread and I must say that I admire the quality of work that you are doing.
I would like to know if you are still thinking about offering a kit of precut parts for the poor souls like me that do not currently own a cnc machine.
If you had any idea of cost, it would be very nice to have as well.

I am looking at building my own cnc machine and I have been looking at plenty of plans of the internet lately.
Clearly, your project is way above anything else I have encountered so far.

Thank you for your wonderful work and experience sharing.

Cordially,
Arno

Hmmmm....based on that disclaimer....I don't want to taint my brain with elements of your design which I suspect is well done.

Hmmmm....based on that disclaimer....I don't want to taint my brain with elements of your design which I suspect is well done.

LOL... you can use them for your own personal use... I just did not want people to get them and then start making all the parts for people when i put in alot of hours to help bring a sturdy CNC Machine to people, the basic concept is derived from here at the zone. and anyone with a machine already can cut one for them selves, I will just offer a kit for people who do not have the means to cut it.

Joe

Here is the link to the complete build.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15139

Joe,

I have followed your thread and I really like the approach of using your working CNC to build a better machine.

I have tried to download these drawings several times without success. I have tried just clicking on the link and doing "save link as" but no joy in mudville. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.

Alan

Joe,

I have followed your thread and I really like the approach of using your working CNC to build a better machine.

I have tried to download these drawings several times without success. I have tried just clicking on the link and doing "save link as" but no joy in mudville. Any helpful suggestions appreciated.

Alan

I tried the zip file it starts to download for me when i click on it and it askes me to open/save as etc.

Joe,

It was showing the attachment.php name in my save as dialog, but when I actually started the download it saved the correct file.

Thanks,
Alan

LOL... you can use them for your own personal use... I just did not want people to get them and then start making all the parts for people when i put in alot of hours to help bring a sturdy CNC Machine to people, the basic concept is derived from here at the zone. and anyone with a machine already can cut one for them selves, I will just offer a kit for people who do not have the means to cut it.

Joe

Decided on a price for this kit?
Dale

Hi Joe,

Thanks for your contribution. People like you really help newbies like me get out of the blocks. Have you put together a kit yet?. I was looking at building a JRGO, but yours is much more robust.

Thanks
Mike

Is there a way to show measurements on the drawings. I downloaded them and can view them just fine but I am at a loss for sizes.

Neil

THANK YOU!!!

Thanks for sharing.

you can e-mail me and i can send dwg files.

Would you PLEASE send me a coy of the dwg files for the 2006 version.
Thanks in advance
scottwiggins@yahoo.com

Did you decide on a cost for the kit? Are yu in San Antonio?

Did you decide on a cost for the kit? Are yu in San Antonio?
Yes i send you an e-mail.

Hi Joe,

I am just about ready to start building from the original plans. I have to scale up the cutting table. Can you remind me of the actual size of the cutting table of your original machine. I know you made it to hold 2 X 4 ft sheets of MDF, but can it actually cat that all the way to the edges ir is the sctual cutting area smaller.

I nead to actually cut (real size) 46" X 30"

Thanks for all you help
Steven

Hi Joe,

I am just about ready to start building from the original plans. I have to scale up the cutting table. Can you remind me of the actual size of the cutting table of your original machine. I know you made it to hold 2 X 4 ft sheets of MDF, but can it actually cat that all the way to the edges ir is the sctual cutting area smaller.

I nead to actually cut (real size) 46" X 30"

Thanks for all you help
Steven
the actual cut was 24x45 i think, that machine is dismantled, but i'm positive of the 24".

joe

Thanks Joe. I expect that I can work everything else out from there.

steven

Hi

I would love to build your router! could you please email me on jestah_nz@hotmail DOT com with your dwg files?

Will it be tricky to scale this up so the cutting size is 60"?

Thanks
Jestah

i am interested in your kit joe. can you send me an email with a price please? my email is mxpro32@gmail.com thanks

you can e-mail me and i can send dwg files.
Hey Joe,

I'd really like to recieve a set of dwg's to your machine.
ejkoeze@hotmail.com

Erik Jan

sent

Could you send me a copy of the dwg files as well.

rohde@cyberus.ca

Thanks

Pete

Me to Joe! Thanks, Wade

wadetomtom@hotmail.com

Joe
would like a set of drwgs please. willryan2000@yahoo.com
thanks in advance

Wayne

Here is a link

http://mail.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

is there a thread for the setup and tuning of this style machine? I have some questions.

Neil

I don't have the means to cut out some of the parts, but would really like to build a CNC machine. I've ordered the Hobby CNC kit w/ 3 steppers, and have put in an order for the six foot long acme threaded rods. Today I will order the skate bearings.
The parts I could really use are the ones for mounting the steppers to the machine, and the parts needed for the backlash assembly. I can build the torsion boxes and main gantry with a table saw, radial arm saw, etc.
If someone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it.
my e-mail is spyder_meister(at)bresnan.net or esoteric(at)bresnan.net

thanks
-Jim

Why not just make them yourself?

The antibacklash nuts, for example, are very simple to make at home. You need only a tap (thing to cut the threads with) and a piece of plastic from which to make the actual nut.

Since ACME taps are expensive and hard to find, you can just grind down and sharpen a cut off piece of your ACME rod, and use it to chase the threads. The resulting nut will be a tight fit, and more than adequate for a first generation machine.

If you want even better control of backlash, there are some slightly more sophisticated designs that can be used.

Here's how I did mine...and they worked great.

http://chuckknight.bravehost.com/router/drivenuts.jpg

The slit cut almost all the way through allows the nuts to be "bound" slightly, and reduces backlash quite efficiently. VERY simple to build.

Hope this helps.

-- Chuck Knight

Chuck, that does like easy to build, thank you!

-Jim

Does anybody have STEP files of Joes CNC MODEL 2006
R-2 machine? I am wanting to re-model it in Native
Pro/E. Will anyone export their
Solidworks files of Joes machine to STEP so I can
read into Pro/E and start modeling. Once complete, I will
post the Pro/E models for all you Pro/E guys out there!
Thanks!

What do you guys think of this setup to drive Joe's machine?

http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Axis-CNC-Stepper-Motor-complete-System-kit_W0QQitemZ330041117308QQihZ014QQcategoryZ78196QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Anyone know a good email address for Joe? I am trying to contact him offline and not via PM. Thanks

i have a few questions that really need answering

first: does anyone have any drawings or something to build a controller for a cnc machine or know where i can get one cheap that works good and if anyone does have drawings or a controller design they'll share can you tell me what i need to build the controller

second: what is a good program to use to make the designs my cnc machine is gonna cut out and how do i take the image and make the cnc machine cut it is there a diffrent program i need for that can anyone help please i have a cnc machine in the works but all the other stuff i'm lost on so any and all information would be greatly appreciated i really need help oh plus what do i use to cut stuff with the cnc machine not the dremel but the tool that goes in the dremel

Thanks Joe. My JGRO is almost finished. I look forward to using it for this years personaized Xmas gifts and the construction of my own Joe 2006. It's ben great fun so far.

Thanks Joe. My JGRO is almost finished. I look forward to using it for this years personaized Xmas gifts and the construction of my own Joe 2006. It's ben great fun so far.


:rainfro: I'm hoping Joe can cut my parts in time so I can finish it before christmas. :) Would love to make some gifts and remind people that I'm a woodworker for hire. :rainfro:

How much is the kit/hardware?

i was looking at the measurements in edrawings for joes2006 cnc are those measurments correct? some of the measurements just dont seem to add up (for example the ribs on the y axis torsion box) i might just be over looking something if so please point it out. thanks

i was looking at the measurements in edrawings for joes2006 cnc are those measurments correct? some of the measurements just dont seem to add up (for example the ribs on the y axis torsion box) i might just be over looking something if so please point it out. thanks

Use the dwg files id at all possible.

The e-drawings are more for 3d visualization.

does your machine also do engraving cause i need one to make wrestling belts

It might be possible with an engraving bit and shallow slow cuts - what metal is it?

mostly aluminum and brass

Joe,

What size router bit was used to cut out the parts for the router? Also did you offset the parts outline by the cutter diameter? Or is this already taken care of in your drawings?

Bill

Joe,

What size router bit was used to cut out the parts for the router? Also did you offset the parts outline by the cutter diameter? Or is this already taken care of in your drawings?

Bill


you do a tool offset of one half the tool dia. not the whole dia.

Joe

Hi all,

Very nice job btw Joe; thank you for your time and trouble.:)

These questions will have been discussed else where but as you can imagine trying to find the information in the gazillion posts is a nightmare.

What I would like to know is; how important is the torsion box that makes the gantry base? Is it absolutely necessary with the two X axis rail arrangement? The reason I ask is I would like to keep the weight down to a minimum on the gantry.

If some one could point me to the right place for this information or can tell me what the general consensus is I would be very grateful.

John

Edit: I should have mentioned by gantry will only be 28” wide.

Hello everyone. I've been checking out this terrific website on and off for some time now and I've finally decided to start drawing up a machine based on Joe's 2006. (BTW: beautiful work, Joe; I really appreciate what you've done here and your willingness to share it all) I've just now started to look over the SW drawings in eDrawings and there are a few things (alright, Many things!) I don't understand. First off, I'd be happy if someone could explain the "XAxisBearingAdjAssemblySlideBox-1". I think I know what it's for: to adjust one side of the table to be parallel with the gantry(?), but I don't understand how it works. Can someone fill me in?

Thanks, Gary

I've been looking around the site for some time now, I've got the solidworks drawing files, and they look great, but is there some kind of a file describing how to build this thing? Some step by step instructions or something like it?

Thanks!
Rick

The assembly manual will help some.


http://www.lumenlab.com/~joe2000chevy/CNC_Model_2006_R-1/

Joe

Hello everyone. I've been checking out this terrific website on and off for some time now and I've finally decided to start drawing up a machine based on Joe's 2006. (BTW: beautiful work, Joe; I really appreciate what you've done here and your willingness to share it all) I've just now started to look over the SW drawings in eDrawings and there are a few things (alright, Many things!) I don't understand. First off, I'd be happy if someone could explain the "XAxisBearingAdjAssemblySlideBox-1". I think I know what it's for: to adjust one side of the table to be parallel with the gantry(?), but I don't understand how it works. Can someone fill me in?

Thanks, Gary

keeps the gantry of the machine in the correct plane to the axis. and supports the bearing slide.

keeps the gantry of the machine in the correct plane to the axis. and supports the bearing slide.
What I don't understand, Joe, is in which direction adjustments are made with this assembly. You say it keeps the gantry in the correct plane to the axis. Do you mean that it can be moved up and down (in the Z direction) so that it's parallel with the horizontal axis of the gantry? It looks to me as if it can only be moved in and out (towards and away from the main table, in what I think you're calling the Y axis). Or, can it be moved in both of these directions. Forgive my density.

Gary

So, I'm looking at all the step files, and wondering, what materials would be optimal for the parts? What parts do you guys (and/or gals) use MDF for, plastic, etc? If you had access to a good metalworker, where would you use aluminum? Just figuring out what I'm going to use and where.

Well it's basically like this. We use mdf as much as possible in the machine and HDPE for anything that comes in contact with much of the glides and lead screw assemblies.

The router holder, motor mounts, gantry adjustment box in the carriage and on the gantry side are hdpe, and all of the bearing and acme nut holders or blocks whatever you want to call them are hdpe as well. This machine was designed for MDF but I'm sure it could be somehow modified as an aluminum machine. In fact I wouldn't mind seeing it for myself :). It is more of a hybrid machine than anything. There is an even distribution of both metal and plastic and mdf in the machine making it rock hard, solid and durable.

But if we're talking about weight, yeah if you dump all that MDF for aluminum the only thing you're going to gain is price, but you will lose a significant amount of weight. I just like the idea that it's mdf because I'm a woodworker, and I can modify it and work with it, and most of all build it with woodworking tools.

Next questions:

What size 90 degree aluminum is used on the bearing slides?

What exact model router will fit in the holder as designed. I already have 2 routers, so I may modify the design to use one of these, but I'm still curious what the "standard" is.

What motors are used on the axis'. I assume the stronger the better, and I may not use the exact motors reccommended, but still, what is the "standard"?

And lastly (for today...) I have a friend who uses cut3D by Vectric (vectric.com) on his CNC router (a commercially bought full sheet router) Does anyone here have any experience with this software? Would I need any other software to integrate the router to the computer? I am not a "computer guy" but I have friends who are, and are willing to help me connect the machine to the computer.

I'm sure I'll need to know more later, but that should do for now.

Thanks to everyone so far,
Rick

Next questions:

What size 90 degree aluminum is used on the bearing slides?

What exact model router will fit in the holder as designed. I already have 2 routers, so I may modify the design to use one of these, but I'm still curious what the "standard" is.

What motors are used on the axis'. I assume the stronger the better, and I may not use the exact motors reccommended, but still, what is the "standard"?

And lastly (for today...) I have a friend who uses cut3D by Vectric (vectric.com) on his CNC router (a commercially bought full sheet router) Does anyone here have any experience with this software? Would I need any other software to integrate the router to the computer? I am not a "computer guy" but I have friends who are, and are willing to help me connect the machine to the computer.

I'm sure I'll need to know more later, but that should do for now.

Thanks to everyone so far,
Rick

1-1/4 X 1/8 angle. I used steel though on mine. A little bit stronger and actually cuts easier.

Hitachi variable speed. I think most of the hitachi's use the same housing. So anything with a 3" diameter housing would work. I adapted the holder for my 3.25 in diameter Bosch, then cut out a temporary set in wood to use so that I can cut the permanent set out of HDPE.

A number of folks that I know of used the 290 (or so) in-oz motors (hobbycnc stuff). I, (and CNCJay also) have 665 in-oz on our machines.

I think you will find most people out here using Mach3 (artofcnc.ca). Mach3 has a free trial, unlimited term of use but restricted to cutting only the first 1000 lines of code. It's relatively inexpensive and very good. There is also EMC2 for Linux (linuxCNC.org) which is free and probably just as good, but a little more involved to set up. I read somewhere that EMC2 was designed for Sherline, but I can't remember where.

Have you thought about CAD and CAM systems too?

Now after all this I know I've said something wrong and Joe will have to correct me again :)

So, I'm looking over materials and such. I've decided that for this build I'm going to stick with the exact materials discussed, then at some future point I may make a new one with some different materials.

For this build, does this sound about right:
1 ea. 48"X48" sheet of 1/4" MDF
2 ea. 48"X96" sheets of 1/2" MDF
1 ea. 48"X48" sheet of 3/4" MDF
1 ea. 12"X12" sheet of 1/2" HDPE
1 ea. 24"X24" sheet of 3/4" HDPE

These are aproximate and in some cases (like the 1/2" MDF) leave considerable excess.

Does this look about right?

Hello Joe, GREAT looking machine. Is it possible to get the drawings in DXF format instead of DWG? I use Autocad 14 and the DWG files are made with what it says is a newer version.

I would love to be able to just buy a kit from you to be able to give back to you the great contribution you have gave to this community, but the wife would kill me for spending to much on this project of mine. But where I work I have everything I need to build this machine. We have all the materials and seeing how I program and operate a commercial size CNC Router ( Busellato Jet 4000 ) I can find the time on my lunch breaks to make the parts for myself.

Here is my email addy if you can make these in DXF.

Andrew
yohan78@gmail.com

I really do not have the time to make the dxf files right now for all the parts, if you download a free cad program, i'm sure they will read newer acad files than rel. 12. even if you just use the program to export it out to dxf should work for you.

Joe

Thank You!!!

Joe, I am very impressed with your machine design. Thanks for sharing it with us. I am still in the stage where I am assembling my machine on the computer screen, but that has raised a few questions in my mind.

When you sandwich two nearly identical pieces together, such as the gantry side pieces or the end supports, do you glue them together or bolt them together?

The U-bolts on the Z- carriage are 5/16" with a 2" wide opening. That means the centerlines of the threaded sections are 2 5/16" apart. They fit into holes that are 2 1/4" apart on the Z-Axis Bearing Block and 2 1/2" apart on the Router Holder Rear Plate. Is this difference intentional or an error? What are the benefits or problems of the difference?

When you install the leadscrews and double-nut the motor end of each leadscrew, do you use LockTite or some other thread locker to help hold the acme nuts in position on the leadscrew? Do you install a flat washer between the acme nuts and the bearings to ensure that the nuts press against the inner race of the bearings?

Thanks for the information, whether it comes from Joe or another builder. I am catching up on my other projects and hope to start building my CNC system soon.

the gantry side pieces, and the router x-axis end pieces are glued together i use Bolts to apply pressure while glueing these.

the u bolts i used are slightly larger than the designed holes because thats what is readily available to everyone and i stood them on the side and used a hammed and strike it at the p.c. (Point of curvature) to make the bolt narrower, then spread the threaded area back out to proper width, this will need to be repeated until desired results.

the double nuts will lock against eachother and i have not used and washers or tocktight on them, they sit onto the center race of the bearing.

hope that helps

Joe

Edited the word bolts for those who needed it.

I wish I had a couple of those dolts to help me out every now and again!

i use dolts to apply pressure while glueing these.

E-drawing viewer

http://www.solidworks.com/pages/programs/eDrawings/e2_register.html?CFID=26587836&CFTOKEN=28246981

Joe
Joe,
Is there a URL for E-drawing that will run under Linux?
Thanks for your time.
William

Joe,
Is there a URL for E-drawing that will run under Linux?
Thanks for your time.
William


Sorry do not think there is such an animal.

here are the requirements from their site.

Microsoft® Windows® XP Professional, Windows® 2000, Windows NT® 4.0 with Service Pack 6 or later, Windows Me, Windows 98 2nd Edition

Solidworks, which I think also makes e-drawings (at least it came with my SW disk) refuses to do a linux compatible program. Not enough market share they say.

However it's hard to figure out just what market share means with linux since it is free and by definition has no market share at all.

Depends on your industry standard, such as us, The AutoDesk Civil3D Design, which is 7,500.00 a seat and yearly service agreements, 500.00 each, does not provide any linux based software. And when all our other software we use are windows based, (all hydrology software etc.) needs to be acad civil3D compatable, so No way would we ever go with linux. When you are insustry dependant you have no choice. No choice meaning contract you get HAVE to be compatable with clients request.

I do remember the days when Adobe only made Photoshop and Illustrator for the Mac OS. The printing Industry has slowly changed over to PC, but many, many die hards still only support macs in their shops. I hope we see some of the major software companies start to realize that Linux could be a viable market in the future.

Hello Joe, GREAT looking machine. Is it possible to get the drawings in DXF format instead of DWG? I use Autocad 14 and the DWG files are made with what it says is a newer version.

http://www.dwggateway.com/
A very handy program from Solidworks that makes AutoCAD forward compatible. Now if they'd only make their OWN software do that.... :mad:

You may want to check out http://www.blender.org/features-gallery/features/
It's an open source cad program for all major OS's. I haven't used it yet, but the next time I have more than 3 minutes free I definately will.

thankz thats really good

There is a version of e-Drawing that runs on the Mac OSX.

Alan

thank you very much

I just got 4 sheets of 5' x 6' x 1" HDPE Thought i might make a call out for anyone who lived in or around Houston that mimght be willing to machine my parts for me? I'm willing to drive pretty far. (thought i might ask Joe also if he is willing, i will come to San Antonio.)

Are you planning on changing the drawings to allow for the 1" HDPE and using all HDPE with no MDF?

Joe

Are you planning on changing the drawings to allow for the 1" HDPE and using all HDPE with no MDF?

Joe

First off,

I hadnt thought about the need to change the drawings for reasons other than where the thickness would matter for things like bolt length. Of Lead Screw Length. My problem is that i do most of my designing in Google Sketchup. I don't think thos files can go back to a dwg without the pro version.

I'm learning Alibre Design at the moment. Figured, Its Free, and i feel able to use it for my needs.

I think i detect something i have no idea about. What kind of changes might i need to make for the plan considering it was not made, at all, from MDF?

What are the changes i would need to make?

If someone poitned them out, i would change the models to accomidate and bring those files with me. There is one thing i do know. Some of the parts i think i cannot do with 1" stuff. Specifically, the Rail Adjustment Blocks. i think we are making those now from 1/2"?

Any pointers from anyone? Too bad there isnt an easy way to have the plans adjust for different thicknesses of material.

The torsion Boxes at the slide fit will need to be adjusted for width.

The Only 1/2" HDPE are the Motor mounts and the Z-Axis Anti-Backlash nut stairs (supports).

Joe,

Do you think i will have enough with the amount of material i have?

3 sheets that are 1" x 5' x 6'

and 1 that is 1" x 5' x 3'

Also,

If i change the plans what are the chances i can bring the material over to you?

Any reason why you're making it out of hdpe (all of it)? MDF is cheap, that hdpe must have cost you some nice $$.

Any reason why you're making it out of hdpe (all of it)? MDF is cheap, that hdpe must have cost you some nice $$.

Not a cent. I got all the material for Free!!!

That's sweet, how did you score all of that?

That's sweet, how did you score all of that?

Just so everyone knows how i got this material. To put it simply, i called the City Manager (my city is pop. 130,000) and asked them if they might help me talk to whoever woul;d know about all the RENOVATIONS in the city. I needed renovations because HDPE is often used as Lavatorie Partitions, so if a renovation was happening, then the bathrooms might be updated aswell, and all those old partitions would be tossed out. If i could find whoever it was who was general contractor for some of these jobs, or any particular job i might be able to get some of that old material. Here is the trick, Municipalities often cannot give items away ,even trash, because they were purchased with Tax Dollars. Often they will have auctions. In the case of the HDPE or UHMW-PE you would wanna talk to the contractor working any particularrenovation. Also, Cities often do allot of renovations to parks and what not, so make sure your contacting the contractor of a building renovation. If your lucky youll have a contractor who couldnt part with tossing so much good looking plastic and will tell you "Sure, i have some of that, Its behind my shop, just go and pick it up."

When he said "some" what he ment was 4 or 5 sheets that are 6' by 4' by 1" THats WAY more than i need. The great thing, though, is that its Free. Thats, by my rough guess, about $2000 in plastic. I'm gonna go pick it up tonight, or tommorow afternoon.

this is a quote from another forum i post in often.

If I were you I'd sell it, ebay it, whatever. Not sure the modifications would be worth it, a lot of extra work. Use that cash to purchase a kit from joe. Heck of a lot easier :). But that's just me.

Hi All, discovered cnczone last week (thanks crocky) and its totally blown me away. After spending 20 hours reading various posts I have decided to start thinking about actually building my own machine.

Being a total newbie I have some pretty basic questions, I am not sure where to post them so forgive me if this is the wrong spot.

So far I'd like to build one of joes2006 routers, for the electronics I was going to use one of the Xylotex 3 axis kits and mach3 to process the g-code.

My questions are, are there any benefits in going for a 4 axis controller? What software (CAD??) should I be looking at to create the g-code from my drawings?


Thanks
joez71

alot of people use the 4th axis for an indexer, or just an extra driver incase something happens to one chip.

Not sure if this is a pattern or not but i have noticed with the Bi-polar driver people get some resonance, and i have it also with my bi-polar drivers, but with a uni-polar driver i have not heard or seen anyone having this problem with it before.Joe

Hi Joe, I was wondering I noticed that some people here asked you the question how much you would charge to cut the parts and ship them. I would be interested to know if you don't mind.
cdl1701@yahoo.com

message sent

Can I get that price as well Joe?

Thanks

Craig

ankh1269@hotmail.com

Joe,

I've just spent the last 2 days looking for information on your kit and have ended up here. If this is the right spot, can you send me a quote?

Bob Hayes

robert180@centurytel.net

Joe,
I've also been looking for your kit. It looks like a very solid machine, nice job.
I would like to build one for myself but I have no way of making the pieces so uniform. This is just what I need to build all my little projects. Would you email me a price and guess of how long it would take to get.
It would be much appreciated.

Thanks Nick.

nsadesign@hotmail.com

Hi joe,

I'm also intrested in your kit , could you mail me the price en the estimated time i need to wait?

Thanks Robrecht
Robrecht@krewten.be

Downloaded your information on your CNC Model 2006 R-1, also the viewer;
however, I could only view some of the files. Looks very good to me, but I
couldn"t build one with just pctures. I am new to all of this and got interested because of a project I was thinking about doing. It would be necessary to have someone with a CNC router to cut the pieces for me. When I started looking for someone, it occured to me that it would be nice if I could do the work myself...and that's how I ended up here. The more I read the more interested I get. If I did build your CNC I would probably need a book for CNC dummies to get it all going. Is there some way I could view
all the files I downloaded? Then I could go from there in making a more practical solution: to buy or to build. Thank you.

I am currently working on my machine also and cutting all of the parts by hand. I decided that I would remodel Joes machine and make a detailed set of build drawings. These drawings have all the parts detailed for hand layout along with assembly views and hardware.

If Joe has no objection I can post it here when I am finished with it for everyone to use.

Downloaded your information on your CNC Model 2006 R-1, also the viewer;
however, I could only view some of the files. Looks very good to me, but I
couldn"t build one with just pctures. I am new to all of this and got interested because of a project I was thinking about doing. It would be necessary to have someone with a CNC router to cut the pieces for me. When I started looking for someone, it occured to me that it would be nice if I could do the work myself...and that's how I ended up here. The more I read the more interested I get. If I did build your CNC I would probably need a book for CNC dummies to get it all going. Is there some way I could view
all the files I downloaded? Then I could go from there in making a more practical solution: to buy or to build. Thank you.


Were you able to view the DWG files and measure them?

I am currently working on my machine also and cutting all of the parts by hand. I decided that I would remodel Joes machine and make a detailed set of build drawings. These drawings have all the parts detailed for hand layout along with assembly views and hardware.

If Joe has no objection I can post it here when I am finished with it for everyone to use.


Would be great if you could do this, I just simply do not have the time, or i would have done it, I have been waiting for someone to provide them in detail in hopes someone could.

I provided everything on here at not charge to help everyone out, in thanks to those who have come before me on this site and provided ideas inwhich we have built upon.

you can e-mail me the files if you like and i can look them over, incase i see something that may need to be addressed.

Thanks, Joe

Were you able to view the DWG files and measure them?

Not all of them.

Hi Joe,
Please send me your kit price and details to fredo550@gmail.com
Thanks.

Hi Joe, I'm interested in your kit too, could you send me the price to: b_morales_b@hotmail.com

Thank you very much,

Bernardo M.

Hey Joe, id also like to know how much it would cost and if possible how long it would take, Thanks

pitchblaktoxic7@aim.com

Is there anyway to send me emails, it is easier and will not get over looked, if you need some information.

Thanks, Joe

Quite new here, and going to jump on the 'Me Too' band wagaon ;)

What do you charge for your kits?
And do you ship to Canada?

Either PM or email chris AT cjandt . com

Thanks!
Chris

Hi I also have been lurking here for an extended period of time and was also wondering what you charge for your kits. And also shipping to Canada information.

You can e-mail me at matthewvdeutsch@gmail.com

Thanks in advance.

wow, Joe! Geez! You got quite a congregation! Reason I came back here is to see if you've got any "stickies" up, showing Rev's and dwgs and zips and avi's and easm's , and pdf's and such in one, complete, tidy file, yet. Cain't find it. Seems to be lot's o' people wanting either a kit, or plans, or whatever. Must be time consuming - aw heck it's time consuming just reading this forum!

I, uh.. will stop back after A few mos.. mebbe let Ol' man Winter scream his vulgarities past mine ears for a while 'fore I get the gumption to start yet ANOTHER project..

L8r!
-Jeff

I just created a Yahoo User Group, to help consolidate the Info, all files, work pieces, mods, machine pics, finished machines, etc.

This may help people since this forum grew so big.

Invite people to come join.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/joescnc

Thanks, Joe

yeh, but Yahoo sucks for me.. I dunno why... Karma? Seems it just never werks for me. I STILL STILL still cain't get in to the PA Blaster group, but ev'r now and agin, I get some random emails from the group, and I can't unsubscribe, cuz it wont let me in to do it. It just sucks. So I won't go Yay - who.

Cya inda spring!
-Jeff

Joe
would like a set of drwgs please. mihaipaunete@yahoo.com
thanks in advance!
Mihai

Joe
would like a set of drwgs please. mihaipaunete@yahoo.com
thanks in advance!
Mihai


Look at post #112, the link is there, I do not have the time to e-mail them to everyone who ask thats why i posted them for download

Joe

Hey Joe,
Your design is amazing, and I can't wait to start cutting mine out and building.

One quick question:
When you cut out the parts what diameter router bit did you use? or did you use multiple bits?

I use 1/4" bit for everything except the 1/2" HDPE.

Joe

OK... Just happened to see a ref to your 2006, and a poll...
Where/How can I get plans to build one too?
(Have self-made/built electronics and steppers)

Post #112

Joe,
I have downloaded both the eDrawing files and the .dwg.
I noticed that for the X axis torsion box, the part known as the "X Axis Torsion Box Long Run Brace" is broken in to two parts (1) and (2). In the .dwg files there is also a file called "X Axis Torsion Box Long Run Brace" but it is not broken into two sections and does not have the large squares cut along its length.

Is the "X Axis Torsion Box Long Run Brace" physically two different pieces (1) and (2), or are they cut into the same piece of MDF making for one long brace?

they are just butted against each other in a stagering configuration. (joints stagered)

Joe

Thanks for all the quick replies so far, its a great help.
I'm about to start making cuts for the X Axis Torsion box, and was wondering how long did it take you to cut out the parts and assemble the X Axis (or the whole machine).

I am doing this for a school project, so I have a deadline and time is of the most importance.

Hey,
I'm beginning to start cutting out parts for the X axis torsion, however, some parts are too long to be cut. The CNC I am using has a travel of 30.5" (y) x 34" (x).

The X Torsion Box Long Run Brace (1) calls for the cutting out of a part 41.67" in length, so what procedure/method should I use to cut out the longer piece?

In more simple terms, how does one cut out a part that is longer than the travel of the CNC?

Joe broke the long ribs in half and joined them together, you literally have to glue them up and he puts a joint on top of them so its fully stacked together and can't easily break apart. See in my photo here...

http://vi01.com/cnc/08.jpg You should see that in the drawings. Just glue it together sand a tad and you're on your way. Without looking at the drawings that one side of the part to be glued up may be the 41" long one; and as you're cutting area is max 34" you cannot do it. You can however do one of two things.

A. have joe cut the long parts for you and ship them to you (probably the easiest and fairly cheap way)

B. cut it by hand and use the shapes and lines of the other parts as a template. Cut them close with a jig saw leaving about a 1/16th and trimming them up with a flush trim bit. Should be easy to manipulate some of your other parts to get that. Just rip a long piece the exact width and length and go for it.

Hope that makes sense!

Yes make three short ones to equal the overall length, then use as brian said, as a templete with a trim router and cut out 4 of them.

Hi,

excellent design joe. Im in the UK and wondered if there is anyone who has been setup to produce the kits. If not can anyone produce a kit for someone in the Nottinghamshire area.

hey joe can you send me the plans and a materials/ cutting list if you have one thanks alot. mini-number1@hotmail.com

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/joescnc

here for download.

Joe

Joe-

I'm still working on creating those plans for the machine. This is a really busy week for me, so I should have them done by Monday. I hope they turn out well.

Joe, I have looked for some time and find your approach and plans best fit my needs. However, I do not have access to equipment to cut the machine. I am interested in the cut kit. Please advise. Thanks, Len

Joe, do you have dxf or dwg files of it all put together. All of the files are of individule parts but nothing of it all put together. Looking for top, left, right, bottom views.

Download the e-drawing, or the sketchup drawing, this is the machine in 3d

Hey Joe... is it possible to get a quote for you to cut and ship just the plastic pieces?
thanks again
david

I have built Joe's machine with mods,built the 4axis hobby cnc kit and downloaded mach3.

Finally got to try jogging the system after recovering from an argument with my table saw, system dead as a dodo. I followed the mach3 configuration tutorial but did notice some differences in the pin functions etc .So I am wondering if there is a file somewhere that gives a step by step configuration instructions for the hobbycnc package to mach3.......and by the way in the "engine config ports and pins what are optically isolated inputs".one other thing how does one find the correct addresses for the computer ports or are they all 0*378....any help appreciated regards mike hide

What kind of ipm can you get on this machine. I was looking at buying the kit. I have 296oz bipolar nema 23. Probly use the standard acme 1/2" 10 screw (not sure about the starts). I have not bought the controllers or power supply yet. I am on a tight budget so the controllers will probly have to get something inexpensive. I am just trying to get a general idea. As far as cutting goes mostly foam, plexi, plastic, and wood.

Cutting speeds I would go with 60 to 80ipm, some cut at 100 to 120, but with the standard acme rod, you can get 60ipm safely.

Joe

Cutting speeds I would go with 60 to 80ipm, some cut at 100 to 120, but with the standard acme rod, you can get 60ipm safely.

Joe

What rod should I go with to get better speed?

What rods were you using on your 4x4? I thought I read that you switched over to rack and pinion,how did or would that effect ipm speeds?

On the 4x4 I use 1/2"-10 5 start, this is by far the best i have used, if cost is not prohibited i would use this on the X and Y Axis and 1/2"-8 2 start on the Z-Axis (most people want the best resolution on the Z-Axis. If not then use 1/2"-8 2 start on all axis.

You have to remember the original was designed two years ago and is the basic machine, people have had mods to improve it, but with mods comes price.

Joe

I have built Joe's machine with mods,built the 4axis hobby cnc kit and downloaded mach3.

Finally got to try jogging the system after recovering from an argument with my table saw, system dead as a dodo. I followed the mach3 configuration tutorial but did notice some differences in the pin functions etc .So I am wondering if there is a file somewhere that gives a step by step configuration instructions for the hobbycnc package to mach3.......and by the way in the "engine config ports and pins what are optically isolated inputs".one other thing how does one find the correct addresses for the computer ports or are they all 0*378....any help appreciated regards mike hide

Well finally got my machine jog in all axes .I was wondering if you could recall the acceleration and velocities you used for your steppers . I am using the same as you I think the Hobbycnc ones and since are machines are almost identical it would be helpful to use your values being an experienced cncer...happy new year ..mike hide

Hey Gang,

Apologies for a simple question about the Joe router that could be mined from the forums, but the Joe forums are so popular that finding even a needle in that haystack seems improbable.

What are the overall dimensions of the Joe router? ie, not just cutting table, but how big of a table do I need for it?

Thanks! Jim

min, table is 3'x6', machine will barely fit. with no room, so you will need to bolt it down.

Here is a picture of the longest dimensions of the machine to use as a reference.

what program do you have to have on your computer to open all of these plans? my computer won't open any of them

I would recommend two programs that I use:

-Rhinoceros CAD: for viewing individual parts and finding dimensions.
-eDrawings: for viewing a complete assembled machine, this helps to give you a general feel for the machine, understand the various parts and how they will be used, and can also be used to take dimensions.

eDrawings is definitely nice to have. The Rhinoceros CAD is just what I'm familiar with, but most CAD software would work for viewing individual parts.


Thats just my opinion on the matter, it depends on your software preferences.

Thanks for the dimensions, but Rats!

I just bought a house and the toolshed seemed perfect for a CNC machine. There's a workbench in there that measures 3x7. I suppose if I was really motivated I could build it out a little more.

Joe,
I'm sure this has been asked before. On the Bearing Slide assembly it shows:
Each 8” bearing slides uses (4) 5 /16”x1-1/2” bolts, (12) 5 1/6” nuts and (4) 5/16” lock washers
(two nuts between the bearing and angle alumn.)
Each 7-1/2” bearing slides uses (4) 5 /16”x1” bolts, (8) 5 1/6” nuts and (8) 5/16” lock washers
(one nut and one lock washer between the bearing and angle alumn.)
Each 6” bearing slides uses (4) 5 /16”x1” bolts, (4) 51/6” nuts and (4) 5/16” lock washers
(one nut between the bearing and angle alumn.)

It seems like the bolts need to be a bit longer to get above the cut-out on the side of the z-axis carriage and make contact with the rod.

Also, on the z-axis carriage it seems that the y axis bearing block (HDPE) and the bottom bearing slide don't fit because the dado the side pieces fit into is cut to deep Or the front back and side plates are not wide enough. Maybe I am missing something but it seem like its off. Didn't want to have to start making modifications to this thing just yet. Thanks in advance for any help.

Well i have not looked at the drawing in a very long time, (prob. over two years now) but i do not know of any problems people are having and there are many ( a but loads) of this machine has been built now. so i would think it will work fine, but if you find differently feel free to chance what you want to.

joe

Joe,
The top, bottom, front and rear plates and the rear braces of the carriage are not wide enough for the top and bottom bearing brackets. With it all together the pieces do not site properly in the dados. This would require a recut of the top, bottom, front and rear plates and rear braces for the carriage....I just want it to be right...lot of money to be second guessing measurments and having to recut new parts myself. This is really straight forward stuff but I will take some pics tonight and post to see what you think. Are you able to recut those pieces if need be? Thanks

Email me pictures and i can see what you need.

joe

Joe
I sent the pics to your email, let me know what you think, thanks.

J.

So what do you think....were able to make anything out from the pics?

Hey Joe would you be able to email me a price for the kit and shipping to 77090 carlossamaniego77@hotmail.com Thanks

Hi Joe!

This was a "me too" post about wanting a Kit quote, and then I noticed Joe's email on his sig, so I sent it there. Sorry for the confusion.

Cheers, Jim

Hi I am also interested in a quote for a kit shipped to Australia Postcode 3070.

Thanks
Joe

you can check shipping, but i would think it would be very expensive.

96lbs
48"x15"x15"
from 78217

joe

Files for download.

http://rs134.rapidshare.com/files/130394446/Joes_CNC_Model_2006_R-2.zip

Joe

Hi Joe,
just wanted to say thanks for the plans etc, some months ago i started to build as per your design, all hand made using only a table saw and plunge router, well i am allmost complete, at the stage of being able to use it...
checkout http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?p=530942#post530942 for a pic of my build....

edrawing made life easy...

cheers
oswaldo!

Very nice job for being cutout with hand tools, Now you will be able to design and jut just about anything you want.

Again Good Job on it.

Joe

Ok Joe,I downloaded the R-2 Version of the router from here :
http://rs134.rapidshare.com/files/13...l_2006_R-2.zip .How do I open it to view? Can someone help? I also may not have a means to cut this kit.Can you send me an idea of cost? Thanks in advance Joe.Pm or email.

Here are the e-drawings for your review, they have the measure feature in solidworks e-drawing viewer (free) turned on.

By downloading these plans you are agreeing to use them for personal use ONLY! not to be used in any reproduction of the machine or parts other than personal use without my expressed permission.

Thanks, Joe

I can't open the drawings with Solidworks e-drawings Viewer. EASM files don't be opened by viewer.
Can you send me the solidworks files? If possible DWG files would be better.

Best regards

pedromdf

I can't open the drawings with Solidworks e-drawings Viewer. EASM files don't be opened by viewer.
Can you send me the solidworks files? If possible DWG files would be better.

Best regards

pedromdf

post #156 had the dxf files, the download link works fine. I can open the e-drawings just fine, do you have the latest viewer?

Joe

Ok Joe,I downloaded the R-2 Version of the router from here :
http://rs134.rapidshare.com/files/13...l_2006_R-2.zip

Hm. That link doesn't work. There's probably a bunch of characters missing where the "..." appears. Is there an official source of the R-2 plans?

Hm. That link doesn't work. There's probably a bunch of characters missing where the "..." appears. Is there an official source of the R-2 plans?

the correct link is in post #156.

Joe

post #156 had the dxf files, the download link works fine. I can open the e-drawings just fine, do you have the latest viewer?

Joe

Joe
Thanks for pront reply.
I think the Viewer is the last version because I have downloded at same moment.
I'm gonna try the files in the post #156.
Thanks for all.
Kind regards
pedromdf

About to build this thing and I wish the guide was more comprehensive. I have virtually no experience with things like this, so I'm a bit worried that I'll put some things together the wrong way or will end up with bunch of unused parts and then wonder what I did wrong.

Good thing Kent lives about 20 minutes away from me, otherwise I'd be in a bit of trouble.

About to build this thing and I wish the guide was more comprehensive. I have virtually no experience with things like this, so I'm a bit worried that I'll put some things together the wrong way or will end up with bunch of unused parts and then wonder what I did wrong.

Good thing Kent lives about 20 minutes away from me, otherwise I'd be in a bit of trouble.

I don't think you will have any problems, just take your time and study it, it goes together faily easy, plus seeing one in person will be a benefit to you.

Joe

Hard or not, I sure can't wait to put it together. Kent's looked like a mean machine, heh

-BK

Kent's looked like a mean machine



Mean ? it's only bit me once or twice .....:rolleyes:

I will have to admit it has chewed up a project or two ...:eek:


I am glad you liked it


kent

Does anyone possibly have a bill of material for the model 2006 that would be willing to share? I have the drawings but, since there is only one view, I'm not sure what the material thickness is. I'm thinking most of it is 3/4".

Thanks
Kilroy

Here are the e-drawings for your review, they have the measure feature in solidworks e-drawing viewer (free) turned on.

By downloading these plans you are agreeing to use them for personal use ONLY! not to be used in any reproduction of the machine or parts other than personal use without my expressed permission.

Thanks, Joe

Someone did not take heed(nuts)
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/dacostad

Someone did not take heed(nuts)
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/dacostad

David has my full blessing in selling his machine, He is building the CNC 4x4 Hybrid now, His 2006 model is a well built machine.

Joe

Joe,

I have gone through your excellent edrawings (for some reason they are very choppy with my edrawing viewer and in SW) and combed through the work logs to see if you have used some sort of thrust bearings on your ACME screws to limit any potential end play. I have my Keling KL23H286-20-8B steppers here and there doesn't seem to be any enplay in their shafts so I was wondering if thrust bearings simply are not required? Maybe I just missed them?

If there WAS a post on this subject and I missed it, sorry for asking an "old" question.

Joe,

I have gone through your excellent edrawings (for some reason they are very choppy with my edrawing viewer and in SW) and combed through the work logs to see if you have used some sort of thrust bearings on your ACME screws to limit any potential end play. I have my Keling KL23H286-20-8B steppers here and there doesn't seem to be any enplay in their shafts so I was wondering if thrust bearings simply are not required? Maybe I just missed them?

If there WAS a post on this subject and I missed it, sorry for asking an "old" question.

No thrust bearings were used, the pressure is taken off the motor shafts by locking the leadscrew into place. Some have also preloaded the leadscrew with springs.

Good evening. Help me please. I can't download drawings from post #156 because my ISP have limited number of external IP-addresses. So RapidShare "says" to me, that I downloading another file already. Can anyone upload these drawings to other file-exchange service?

In advance I thank, Vitus

Good evening. Help me please. I can't download drawings from post #156 because my ISP have limited number of external IP-addresses. So RapidShare "says" to me, that I downloading another file already. Can anyone upload these drawings to other file-exchange service?

In advance I thank, Vitus

Vitus, try this one:

http://geno.boxgods.com/Joes_CNC_Model_2006_R-2.zip

Might be a good time to remind Joe I DID offer like 2 or 3 years ago to host all his files and movies on our servers. On a fat pipe in a world class data center. Free. No strings. Just as a thankyou for helping out the DIY guys.

I can give you your own folder Joe with FTP access if you like. Its even in Texas lol.

G

http://geno.boxgods.com/Joes_CNC_Model_2006_R-2.zip



Many thanks for a hyperlink. I without problems could download this file.

Thanks Joe ;)

I am certainly not making any profit from selling it, in fact if I calculated the loss I might cry ;)

Anyway it was either sell it to make room for the 4x4, scrap it and throw it out or build a bigger "Man House" - I figured selling it was the best option.

The guy who won the auction will be using it for his first foray into CNC and I am glad it will go to a good home and someone else will get to appreciate the quality of the design (and build).

David

David has my full blessing in selling his machine, He is building the CNC 4x4 Hybrid now, His 2006 model is a well built machine.

Joe

Just getting ready to start a 2006 build, and was just wondering if anyone has VCarve or Aspire files? I have the DXF but it would save some time to have the vcarve files.

Thanx,
Scott...

hellow joe,

I am currently studying Bachelor of Mechatronics Engg and I have chose mini CNC lathe for turning and facing of wood and soft metals AS my Final Year Project. I have to start right from scratch. Building of machine parts then making it CNC.

I just want to ask if I can use your design in my project (ofcourse i will cite ur proper reference in my project report)

Thank you. I am downloading this Joes_CNC_MODEL_2006_r2.zip 28MB file.

Please do reply back either in this forum or through PM(more gud if u provide me ur complete contact details to cite in my project report)

EDIT: WRONG POST :eek: I should have took a look on the file i downloaded. Its like gantry cutter. :(

Well, I'm pretty pumped up.. Just placed an order for your 2006 model kit, Joe. I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm looking forward to building/using this machine. Any guidance or advice is most appreciated. Jim McGrew (from Sawmill Creek Forum) pointed me in your direction. I've since read many good things about your design and service. It's tough to wait.. :violin:

Well, I'm pretty pumped up.. Just placed an order for your 2006 model kit, Joe. I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm looking forward to building/using this machine. Any guidance or advice is most appreciated. Jim McGrew (from Sawmill Creek Forum) pointed me in your direction. I've since read many good things about your design and service. It's tough to wait.. :violin:

There is quite a bit of builds here to follow, with tons of pictures, the machine is pretty easy to build, I would make a directory on your computer and start saving some pictures for guidance, maybe break it down with sub directories of the components of the machine.

Yeah, don't worry, Rice. I was very nervous to start building this thing on my own, but Joe's kit is so well made that it's pretty hard to mess up. The little guide that's included in the .zip file with the plans is helpful enough. I also use other people's threads as references to make sure I'm progressing well. Trust me, I was completely new (still am) to anything that involves tools when I started.

Make sure you research the mods that have been added on. A lot of them make the machine much more solid (like the threaded rods fed through above the X table to make the Y assembly more rigid... or the iron angles on Y assembly sides). Also if you have the money (and it's not that expensive), get the dumpstercnc stuff for Joe's '06. It will make your life easier and your machine better.

One tip I can give you that no one else mentioned to me is that you should not attach the bottom or the top of the main X table up until the very end. Otherwise you will have hard time attaching the back and the front plates to it.... that's what I'm trying to figure out right now. It's a bit of a delema to feed through those threaded rods when you can barrely see them. Thank god there are openings on either side so I can kind of see them, but it's still tough.

-BK

Get multistart screws for the drive. Either 1/2-8 2-start or 1/2-10 5-start or even 1/2-8 8-start if you have the higher power motors.
Somewhere in here is a spreadsheet with a pretty good parts list and sources. Hopefully someone else will come by and post a link as I don't have one handy.
You also may want to look at my thread. I made an aluminum plate for the Z and added the K2 mount for the router. I think it adds a lot of rigidity to the Z.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43485&page=7
post #76.
I used a cable carrier from a PC server rack I got at work for the cables on Y. You can build one with some wood and hinges. Joe adapted this to the 4 x 4.
Legs are a nice addition as well. I always mount both castors and screw jacks to mobile equipment. You can roll to where you want and then use the jacks to level and lock in place.

How do you have both wheels and jacks at the same time? I'm sure it's simple but I am wondering how you do it.

You know, I have been wondering if it's worth it to replace all of the Z as aluminum plates with some kind... perhaps ball bearing motion things attached. It would make Z axis very stable.

I mount the jacks so that they unload onto the castors. Raise the jack and castors roll. Lower the jack screw and you lift the table/cabinet off the castors. Works great.
I have found that even "good" locking castors don't lock as well as I like and even though the wheel may not roll, you can usually move some just because of the rotation of the castor direction.